GREAT ETHIOPIAN ROUTES The Historic North and the Simien Mountains © Ethiopian Tourism Organization. Version V1.0 1115 Version Organization. Tourism © Ethiopian Text: Philip Briggs; Photography: David Kirkland, David Fiorente Briggs; Photography: Philip Aziz Antonio Ahmed, Text: www..travel

The Historic North and the Simien Mountains

• Three thousand year old Aksum, where obelisks as tall as ten-storey buildings overlook mysterious ruined palaces dating back to the reign of the Queen of Sheba. • The 4th century church of Tsion Maryam, whose Temple of the Tablet reputedly houses the original Biblical Ark of the Covenant. • Classically proportioned rock-hewn churches, carved into the pink tuff of Lalibela and the sandstone cliffs of Gheralta many centuries ago, yet still active shrines of worship today. • Masterfully-painted medieval monasteries nestled away in the forested islands and peninsulas of the beautiful Lake Tana. • Majestic 17th century stone castles that have earned Gondar the nickname “Camelot of Africa”. • Negash, Ethiopia’s first Islamic settlement established by Muslim refugees, including close relatives of the Prophet Mohammed. • Windswept Afro-Alpine moors dotted with otherworldly giant lobelias and inhabited by a range of wildlife found nowhere else on earth. • A mile-deep canyon carved by the Blue Nile, and the jagged 4,500-plus metre peaks of the upper Simiens.

This is Northern Ethiopia. An ancient and enigmatic land of undulating green mountains and vast inland seas, where the histories of Africa, Arabia and the Mediterranean have intersected over the millennia to forge a unique cultural heritage celebrated at four magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Sites - Aksum, Lalibela, Gondar and the Simien Mountains National Park - as well as a vast array of lesser-known but equally fascinating historical sites.

Lake Tana, origin of the Blue Nile

Centrepiece of UNESCO’s newly proclaimed 5,000km2 Lake Tana Biosphere Reserve, Ethiopia’s largest lake is a perennially popular tourist destination blessed with a balmy tropical climate, fabulous birdlife and excellent amenities focused on the city of Bahir Dar. The lake’s forested islands - 37 in total - and peninsulas are studded with atmospheric and beautifully painted monasteries, most of which were Gondar founded between the 13th and 19th centuries. Easily visited from Bahir Dar, the Blue Nile Falls were described by the Scottish traveller James Capital of Ethiopia from 1636 until the 1850s, the “Camelot of Africa” is at once a thriving modern town and an ancient Christian citadel Bruce as ‘a magnificent sight, that ages, added to the greatest length of whose fortified stone castles and lavishly painted churches evoke a medieval fairytale. The city centre is dominated by Fasil Ghebbi, a stone- human life, would not efface or eradicate from my memory.’ walled Royal Compound with several castles and ancillary buildings, including the three-storey original castle built by Gondar’s founder Emperor Fasil in the 1630s. The Fasil Ghebbi UNESCO World Heritage Site also incorporates the Church of Debre Berhan Selassie, with its Aksum wealth of vivid ecclesiastic paintings attributed to the 17th century master artist Haile Meskel, as well as Fasilidas’s bath, a pool used during Steeped in legend and mystery, the town of Aksum was founded more the Timkat festival. than 3,000 years ago, when the Queen of Sheba ruled over a vast trade empire from her palace there. It later served as capital of the Aksumite Kingdom, the only sub-Saharan African empire that coexisted with Greece and Rome and was known to the literati of the classical world. The great Aksumite rulers included King Balthazar, who according to some legends was one of the Three Wise Men who visited the baby Jesus, as well as King Ezana, who established the Ethiopian Orthodox Church in 341 AD. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Aksum is replete with ancient artefacts dating back to its glory days, ranging from towering stelae reaching 33 metres to vast ruined palaces. Tsion Maryam, the church founded by Ezana, remains the spiritual home of Ethiopian Christianity, while its associated Temple of the Tablet is believed to be the last resting place of the Biblical Ark of the Covenant.

Gheralta

The 120-odd rock-hewn churches that grace Tigrai - most of them in active use and with their own oral traditions - were described by academic Ivy Pearce as “the greatest of the historical-cultural heritages of the Ethiopian people”. Though less well known than their counterparts at Lalibela, the Tigraian churches mostly Simien Mountains National Park predate them, and some might even date back to the 4th century.

Ethiopia’s premier hiking destination, the 412km2 Simien Of the 30 churches concentrated along the sandstone Gheralta Mountains National Park protects the “Roof of Africa”, an Escarpment, Abuna Abraham Debre Tsion is an atmospherically awesome Afro-Alpine landscape of grassy meadows and cathedralesque 6th century excavation, while Yohannes Maikudi ericaceous moorlands that rises to 4,533m at Ras Dejen. Upon and Debre Maryam Korkor are decorated with fine 17th century inscribing it as a Natural World Heritage Site in 1979, UNESCO murals. But the undisputed jewel of Gheralta is Abuna Yemata lauded the Simien Mountains as “one of the world’s most Guh, a small but very beautifully painted church carved into a spectacular landscapes, with jagged mountain peaks, deep tall perpendicular sandstone pinnacle and accessed by a cliff face valleys and sharp precipices dropping some 1,500m.” This suited only to those with a head for heights. The churches are devastatingly scenic landscape - best explored on foot, but found from Gheralta to and from Tembien to Tsaeda also crossed by an all-weather 4x4 road - supports a wealth Imba and Atsibi, and some of them are accessible by vehicle. of Ethiopian endemics, and is the last global stronghold for the Walia ibex, an imperious goat-like cliff-dweller sporting magnificent decurved horns.

Lalibela

The unofficial “Eighth Wonder of the World”, the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela form the single most breathtaking historical site in sub-Saharan Africa. Excavated by hand at the end of the 12th century, the complex of 11 churches and chapels was created under the direction of King Lalibela, who conceived it Highland wildlife as a kind of “New Jerusalem” after a series of Muslim conquests had halted Christian pilgrimages to the Holy Land. Lalibela’s Although historical sightseeing is the main tourist activity in northern Ethiopia, the highlands have much to offer to wildlife enthusiasts. finest churches are subterranean monoliths carved into massive The most important centre of biodiversity, Simien Mountains National Park not only supports the world’s last population of Walia ibex, stone blocks enclosed by an artificial courtyard. Most spectacular but also provides sanctuary to thousands of golden-maned gelada baboons and the iconic Ethiopian wolf. The gelada and wolf, both among these is the 15 metre tall Bet Giyorgis, a symmetrically endemic to Ethiopia, are also commonly seen by hikers in recently established community conservation areas at Guassa and Abuna cruciform freestanding church dedicated to Saint George. Yoseph. All three reserves harbour a wide variety of highland birds, ranging from the soaring lammergeyer and Augur buzzard to Architecturally, Lalibela is utterly mind-blowing. But it is also a dozen eagerly-sought endemics including spot-breasted plover, Ankober serin, black-headed siskin, thick-billed raven and white- one of the few UNESCO World Heritage Sites of comparable winged cliff-chat. vintage to function as a living shrine, one whose ancient stone churches have remained in active use since their excavation The Biblical Ark of the Covenant eight centuries ago.

Ethiopia, it is said, is the home to the Ark of the Covenant, which Moses built as a repository for the Tablets of Law he received Amazed by the architectural beauty of the churches, the on Mount Sinai. According to the Old Testament, the Ark, which was invested with deadly supernatural powers, was enshrined in 16th century Portuguese traveller Francisco Alvares, the first Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem. The Ethiopian tradition states that the Ark was transported to Ethiopia 3,000 years ago by Menelik I, European to visit Lalibela, wrote of its rock-hewn churches: the son of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. The Ark is now stowed away in an outbuilding of Aksum’s church of Tsion Maryam, “I weary of writing more about these buildings, because it seems where it has been seen by precisely one living person, a designated caretaker priest who keeps it under lock and key at all times. to me that I shall not be believed if I write more …” THE HISTORIC NORTH AND THE SIMIEN MOUNTAINS

A scenic highlight of the drive to Lake Tana is the road up and down the 1 terraced slopes and euphorbia-studded cliffs that hem in the magnificent Blue Nile Gorge, Africa’s largest canyon.

2 Administrative capital of Amhara Regional State, Bahir Dar is a bustling modern inland port city with excellent tourist amenities, a lively market and traditional music scene, and a lovely setting on the Lake Tana shore.

3 Freshwater Lake Tana, a vast inland sea fringed by tropical greenery, is dotted with evocatively painted island monasteries such as Ura Kidane Mihret and Narga Selassie, and the papyrus boats (tankwas).

4 Downstream from Lake Tana, the 45m high Blue Nile Falls, also known as Tis Isat (Water that Smokes), rank among Africa’s most spectacular waterfalls in the rainy season.

5 A former capital of Ethiopia, Gondar has been dubbed the Camelot of Africa in reference to the stunning 17th century castles that adorn its Fasil Ghebbi UNESCO World Heritage Site.

6 The scenic drive from Gondar to Aksum traverses the western Simien Mountains National Park, a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site, and involves a spectacular descent through the Simien foothills to the Tekaze River Valley. Walia ibex and other endemic wildlife can be seen from the spectacular hiking trails that traverse the Park, whose 4,533m Ras Dejen is Ethiopia’s highest peak.

7 Stretching back to the reign of the Queen of Sheba, Aksum is the oldest continuously-inhabited city in sub-Saharan Africa and its oldest church reputedly still conserves the lost Ark of the Covenant.

8 The market town of Adwa, situated in the hills 20km east of Aksum, is the site of the historic Battle of Adwa, where in 1896 the Ethiopians defeated the invading Italian troops.

Yeha, the center of a civilization that bloomed in the 8th and 9th centuries BC, 9 houses the ruins of a 12m high temple, the oldest standing structure in sub- Sahara Africa.

Renowned for its ancient Aksumite architecture, the 6th century male-only 10 clifftop Monastery of Debre Damo can be accessed only by scaling a 15m high cliff with the assistance of a rope.

11 Negash, Ethiopia’s first Islamic settlement, was established by Muslim refugees, including close relatives of the Prophet Mohammed, during his lifetime. The tombs of 15 of the original settlers are protected in a new mosque.

Ancient houses a lovely rock-hewn church claimed locally to date to the 12 4th century, while a 2,800 year old pre-Aksumite sacrificial altar can be seen in situ at nearby Adi Akaweh.

East of Wukro town lies Atsbidera Plateau with its striking churches –Mikael 13 Barka, Mikael Imba and Debreselam Mikael - perched on mountains and with beautiful views.

The towering sandstone outcrops of the Gheralta Escarpment are incised with 14 more than two-dozen isolated rock-hewn churches reached along challenging but wonderfully scenic footpaths.

Mekele, the energetic and well-equipped capital of Tigrai Region, is a popular 15 fly-in springboard for exploring the rock-hewn churches of Gheralta and expeditions into the Danakil Desert.

The subterranean complex of 11 rock-hewn churches at Lalibela, in active use 16 since it was excavated in the late 12th century, has been dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World”. GETTING THERE The cave monastery of Yemrehanna Kristos incorporates an 11th century 17 Northern Ethiopia covers a vast area so many visitors fly between main centres. church constructed in the Aksumite style, with alternating layers of wood and Daily flights with Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com) connect Addis white gypsum. Ababa to Bahir Dar, Gondar, Aksum, Lalibela and Mekele. There are also connecting flights between most of these towns. Privately owned local airline companies can An excellent trekking goal from Lalibela, 4,284m Mount Abuna Yoseph is 18 also arrange non-scheduled or chartered flights upon request. protected in a community conservation area, serviced by an overnight hut, and home to endemic wildlife. Most trunk roads in the region are asphalt, but some minor routes remain unsurfaced. Road transport can be arranged through any tour operator in Addis A birdwatcher’s paradise, mountain-ringed Lake Hayk, near the bustling city of 19 Ababa, or with local operators. Taxis and local guides are readily available in all Dessie, is also the site of the ancient monastery of Hayk Istafanos. larger towns. Every Monday, Bati hosts a colourful livestock market that attracts 20 The Simien Mountains, Guassa, Abuna Yoseph and Gheralta are primarily hiking traditionally attired Oromo, Afar and Amhara villagers from miles around. and trekking destinations.

2 21 A 110km Afro-Alpine plateau conserved by the local Menz people for 400 years, the Guassa Community Conservation Area harbours populations of ACCOMMODATION Ethiopian wolf and gelada baboon.

International-quality accommodation is available in Bahir Dar, Gondar, Lalibela, 22 Endemic birds, gelada baboons and a restored 19th century palace can be seen Gheralta and the Simien Mountains National Park. Midrange rooms are also at Ankober, chilly capital of the Shewa Kingdom until Emperor Menelik II available in these towns, as well as in Aksum, Mekele and Wukro. Budget founded Addis Ababa in the 1880s. accommodation can be found in almost all towns and larger villages in the region including Debark, gateway to the Simiens. Hutted accommodation aimed at hikers is available in the Simien Mountains and at the Guassa and Abuna Yoseph community conservation areas.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Amhara Culture and Tourism Bureau: www.amharatours.org.et. Tigrai Culture and Tourism Bureau: www.tigraitourism.com. Gondar Tourist Office: www.gondarcity.gov.et. Simien Mountains National Park: www.simienmountains.org. Axumite Heritage Foundation: www axumiteheritagefoundation.org. Lalibela Community Tourism Guiding: www.community-tourism-ethiopia.org. OTHER PRACTICALITIES Abune Yoseph CCA: www.abuneyosephtourism.org. Guassa CCA: www.guassaarea.org Holidays such as Ethiopian New Year (11 September), Meskel (Finding of the True Cross; 27 September), Gena (Ethiopian Christmas; 7 January) and Timkat (Epiphany; 19 January) are celebrated colourfully throughout the region. These holidays fall one day later in FURTHER READING leap years.

Bradt Guide to Ethiopia: (7th edition 2015, www.bradtguides.com). The best places for handicraft shopping are Bahir Dar, Lalibela and Aksum. Guide to Aksum and Yeha: (2009, www.aradabooks.com). Guide to Gondar & Lake Tana: (2012, www.aradabooks.com). Most key sites in northern Ethiopia lie at altitudes of 2,000m or higher, with the high Guide to Lalibela: (2008, www.aradabooks.com). Simiens topping the 4,000m mark. Although day temperatures are rather mild all year Simien Mountains National Park: A Traveller’s Guidebook by Eliza Richman & round it can be chilly at night or during the rainy season. Bring plenty of warm clothing. Biniyam Admassu. The Sign and the Seal: The Quest for the Lost Ark of the Covenant by Graham Some monasteries in northern Ethiopia have been closed to women for centuries, a rule Hancock: (1992). also applied to tourists.