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Lyra Mukherjee, IL, USA pÇf¡ce¡ l¢”a¡ Q­–¡f¡dÉ¡u fËbj pwMÉ¡, ® ®p­ÃVðlp­ÃVðl 2015 h¡a¡ue fËbj pwMÉ¡, ®p­ÃVðl 2015 pÇf¡ce¡ l¢”a¡ Q­–¡f¡dÉ¡u, IL, USA f˵Rc¢nÒf£ Ga¥fZÑ¡ QÉ¡V¡SÑ£, IL, USA A¿¹Ñf˵Rc m¡ul¡ j¤MÉ¡SÑ£, IL, USA hÉhÙÛ¡fe¡ ¢hnÄ¢Sv j¢am¡m, Kolkata, India AmwLlZ L¡Sm J p¤¤hËa, Kolkata, India ®g¡­V¡NË¡g¡l a£bшl hÉ¡e¡SÑ£, Perth, Australia fËL¡nL Neo Spectrum C-®jm : [email protected] l©f¡ue Ae¤nË£ hÉ¡e¡‹Ñ£, Perth, Australia h¡a¡ue f¢œL¡ h¡a¡ue L¢j¢V à¡l¡ fËL¡¢na J phÑpšÄ pwl¢ra z h¡a¡ue L¢j¢Vl ¢m¢Ma Ae¤j¢a R¡s¡, HC f¢œL¡u fËL¡¢na ®k ®L¡e Aw­nl f¤ejѤâZ h¡ ®k ®L¡e i¡­h hÉhq¡l ¢e¢oÜ z lQe¡u fËL¡¢na ja¡ja pÇf§ZÑ i¡­h lQ¢ua¡u p£j¡hÜ z Published by the BATAYAN of Neo Spectrum, Perth, Australia. No part of the articles in this issue can be re-printed without the prior approval of the publisher. The editor is not responsible for the contents of the articles in this issue. The opinions expressed in these articles are solely those of the contributors and are not representative of the Batayan Committee. p§Q£fœ

Rxe‡bi Drme ®Yy¢L ü­NÑ ®N­mJ 2 p¤¤Su cš ®q¡¢m 8 d£j¡e Qœ²haÑ£ nah­oÑl B­m¡­L — L¢mL¡a¡l I¢aqÉh¡q£ ®Q¡lh¡N¡e Q­–¡f¡dÉ¡u f¢lh¡­ll SNÜ¡œ£ f§S¡ 9 N¡­el ®jm¡ - fË¡­Zl ®jm¡ 11 yyEvf­m¾c¤ ®Q±d¤l£ Celebration of Indianness in Minnesota 12 Debarshi Roy `~‡i †Kv_vI Oregon Travel Experience 13 Saumen Chattopadhyay fv‡jvjvMv eB "¢el¦­Ÿn pÇf­LÑ ®O¡oZ¡' — A¢e¾cÉ Q­–¡f¡dÉ¡u 15 je¡j£ ®N¡ü¡j£ Rvbvjv w`‡q ®jjp¡­q­hl ¢ce 16 ®ch£¢fËu¡ l¡u Bj¡­cl hC f¡­W 19 h¡p¿¹£ h­¾cÉ¡f¡dÉ¡u Øjª¢aQ¡lZ¡ — Bj¡l ®cM¡ lj¡ c¡n…ç¡ 22 Su¿¹£ Ll”u ¢m­j¢lL 24 öï cš A Game of Marbles 25 Bakul Banerjee Pens, Pencils and Binder Clips 25 Bakul Banerjee Chicago Poem 26 Binita Gupta Blue Moon 27 Bani Bhattacharyya FLASH OF THOUGHT Calcutta Cuisine 28 Balarka Banerjee †fvR Kq hvnv‡i Recipe 33 Annyasha Mukherjee Roy Acknowledgement:

On behalf of Batayan magazine I want to thank all the contributors to our first issue. Thank you very much for being with us and trusting us. Thanks to everyone who provided us moral support. It is because of all our friends that the long cherished dream became a reality. We could not have done it without your support.

Ranjita Chattopadhyay m¤úv`Kxq

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Minnesota is home to approximately 30-35K concluded with an Indian DJ night which was enjoyed Indians. Most of this growing population in this state by a huge crowd. is residing around the Minneapolis-St. Paul twin city A small town named Rochester (not to be area and in its nearby neighborhoods. With this confused with Rochester, NY), which is only 70 miles growing population there is a significant rise in the away from the twin city area has a significant number number of Indian restaurants, grocery stores etc. in of Indian population due to the presence of this area. We Indians love to preserve and nurture our Minnesota's biggest employer, Mayo Clinic. Most of culture in this foreign land. Minnesota is no the Indians moved to this small town for their exception; every year various cultural and social relationship to Mayo. The narrator himself is one of events are been organized by different Indian them who moved from Texas. associations across the twin city. The Indian population in Rochester also Among these different events, the biggest one is celebrated the Indianness just like India fest. Here the “India Fest”; which is organized by the Indian celebration occurred after a week, on August 22nd. It Association of Minnesota (IAM) to celebrate the was the first of its kind organized in this little town, so Indian Independence Day. This year this event the excitement was much more. This event was occurred on 15th August in St Paul Capitol Grounds. named as Rochester India Day conducted by the This event has been organized by IAM for last 30 cultural association of bengalees of Rochester or years, and in addition this year the Minnesota State CABERI. It was advertised in the local TV stations Governor has announced that from now on every 15th and newspapers to attract the local crowd. This show August will be designated as India Day in the State of was 4 hour long; many participants from Rochester Minnesota. and the surroundings joined this event. Alike India The daylong event attracted approximately fest, several music and dance performances were 10,000 people. There were different vendors selling done in India day by the local talents. Additionally, delicious Indian food, jewelry, dress materials, home there was a fancy dress show for the kids which made décor items etc. Apart from that there were booths excitement among the kids. Few vendors also joined hosted by various non-profit organizations displaying this show selling handcrafted jewelry, Indian snacks, the culture and heritage of India. Long lists of cultural and henna design. This show has been appreciated events were conducted throughout this day in a nicely and cherished by the locals. decorated open stage. The audience experienced several great performances by the local talents throughout the day. There were classical music performances, bollywood dances, folk dance forms, classical Indian instrumentals, band performance etc. The two most noted Indian dance groups from Minneapolis area, Katha (North Indian Classical Dance Group specialized in Kathak) and Ragamala (South Indian Dance Group specialized in Bharatanatyam) gave a memorable performance which was highly appreciated by the huge crowd. The narrator was fortunate to perform music in this show as well with his musical team. The event was 12 `~‡i †Kv_vI Oregon Travel Experience Saumen Chattopadhyay, IL, USA

It was on October 18th last year. The morning of a rainy Saturday. I looked through the window of my hotel room at Cascade Locks, Oregon. Layers of cloud sheltered on the sky the nature was in rainy mood. A glimpse of “The Bridge of the Gods” through dense fog looked mysterious. I didn't want to stay in the cozy hotel room; my mind was treading on the mountains of Oregon. Well, let me get out, I said to myself but no camera, OK? I just remembered I forgot the rain jacket for my camera let alone mine. I stepped out. The Pacific Crest trail was just on the other side, nestled inside a park. With dripping rainwater from my hat and wet jacket I hiked on. It was a steep rocky trail enveloped in mossy and tall pine trees. My footstep seemed to be the only noise breaking the still silence of the forest as it was waking up in twilight. I paid attention to my footstep on the slippery trail with uneven rocks while my senses immersed with the enigma of Pacific Crest trail that spiraled up in the mountain. I heard swift movements of deer and other animals disturbed by the presence of a stranger in their habitat. As the trail twisted at every turn the forest became more dense and impenetrable. Bewildered by the wilderness I started feeling the presence of an intangible being silently watching my movement in his kingdom. It was an uncanny on with my curious mind having no fear of moving atmosphere where nothingness surrounded all into unknowns. The trail became more treacherous with steeper slope. I forgot how long I hiked nor I living being the flora and fauna of the forest. I was had any desire to check the time on my cellphone. completely drenched but continued on my voyage The notion of time appeared to fade away in my with a keen desire to see the unseen. mind with a feeling that the “clearest way into the Then appeared a valley at the end of the forest. Universe is through forest wilderness”. I didn't I noticed the sign of “Dry Creek Falls” with an want to remember I belong to a civilized world! I arrow pointing toward the beginning of another lost my soul inside the soul of the forest. And then a forest. I remembered the saying “you can't stay one sudden noise of footsteps altered my hearing sense. corner of the Forest waiting for others to come to It was an offbeat sound beyond the realm of my you. You have to go to them sometimes”. I marched expectation. Who could it be? The noise got more 13 prominent and I was awe-stuck with the sudden mountain and it was an inexplicable experience. I appearance of an unearthly masculine figure with was perplexed by the sight of the stranger not being bald head running down the trail. I somehow held able to grasp his supernatural, wind-like decent on a myself back in the corner to let him pass. He was very steep slippery Pacific Crest trail. It baffled me running at a lightening speed and when I looked so much. I asked the localites but no one could back, he disappeared. I tried to hear his fading provide a plausible answer while one said “strange footsteps, but no vein. When I gained my senses things happen in the deep forests of Oregon back I looked at the trail behind and it seemed mountains”. humanly impossible to decent while running The next day was sunny and I climbed up the without the risk of falling down on the forest floor. same trail to take a few shots of Dry Creek Falls. I Who was he? I asked myself. aspired to meet that “unknown” once again, but he I did reach Dry Creek Falls nestled in the was not present for an unknown reason.

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21 Rvbvjv w`‡q Øjª¢aQ¡lZ¡ — Bj¡l ®cM¡ lj¡ c¡n…ç¡ Su¿¹£ Ll”u, Sydney, Australia

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23 Rvbvjv w`‡q ¢m­j¢lL

öï cš, Washington, USA

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24 Rvbvjv w`‡q A Game of Marbles Pens, Pencils and Binder Clips Bakul Banerjee, IL, USA Bakul Banerjee, IL, USA On the tall solid bookshelf the rusty old can of marbles sat behind crumbling books “Haunted Halloween Happenings” is written on the orange cup. Once it held candies, holding nuggets of nostalgia now pencils, but it is the howl unbroken from my child's throat that I remember the most. Flicking figures we drove marbles into holes in dirt It's hard to build the courage for my mission bartering away the uglies of rejecting memories and discard the tankard chipped, dented and dull with a baseball logo the child has forgotten. It is full of paintbrushes that meetst her standard. We played for wins or losses saving clean, shiny glass ones To complete this chore I need permission with fancy names - cat's eye from my aching heart who has to decide turtles, pearls and oxbloods if this dried up silver marker or that broken pen with the familiar college name must go. Wins or losses, the can grew heavy and heavier, rattling, “The Greatest Mom” is the honored definition collecting scratches as we took that was bestowed on me as stamped on a mug, turns shaking it through our lives. now missing a handle. By my true admission, how can I get rid of this precious diploma? Later, bearing stones and steelies we agree - life is rather heavy Papers and paper binders present a condition of grave dilemma as I peer into old certificates, reports and ramblings that I kept, but forgotten or neglected by my children for the time being.

25 Rvbvjv w`‡q Chicago Poem

Binita Gupta, IL, USA

I heard rumors about her “Her breath reeks of cigarette smoke” “Unpredictable and violent” “She's just like every other girl I've ever met, don't waste your time!” All of these words leaked around thick cigars Stuffed between the yellowing teeth of some men I met at a sports bar But I decided to meet her anyway, in the middle of the night. She was still awake, the stars in her eyes far from diminished And while I didn't believe in love at first sight before In that moment, I did. She smelled like sunlight and whispered like the wind, And she was unprecedented, mysterious, and devastatingly brilliant. I planned to stay for just a night, so the next morning I slipped on my coat and told her it was lovely getting to know her. Hearing this, she laughed with her shoulders. (I remember someone telling me she had hefty shoulders like a man, But her shoulders looked rather dainty, Yet somehow I had no doubt they could carry the weight of the world.) She then simply blew some cigarette smoke out between her red lips, Leaned in and whispered into my ear, “Do you really think you know me?” So I paused and asked how long it would take to fully know her And she laughed again, That confusing, poetic laugh that sounded like fountains trickling, Bicycle horns, and feet slamming on pavement, all at once, And responded coyly “You'll have to stay with me forever then!” And so without a second thought I did. Binita Gupta is 17 years old and is a twelfth-grader at the Illinois Math and Science Academy in Aurora, Illinois. She intends on majoring in Computer Science in college, and she wants to become a graphic designer, app developer, or web designer one day. Her favorite books are The Help by Kathryn Stockett, The Bell Jar by Sylvia Plath, and Amadeus by Peter Shaffer. In her free time, she likes to paint, bake cakes, play piano and violin, tutor, and read. Her other writings include fictional short stories and other poems. She is currently working on a series of poems about her travel experiences. At school, she is a Community Developer, a Lead Math tutor, a Writing Center tutor, and a facilitator for the school's Ethics program. 26 Rvbvjv w`‡q Blue Moon

Bani Bhattacharyya, IL, USA

7/30/2015 a month in America when I was very busy working, taking care of my children and husband. I asked her Hearing the sound of the ringing telephone, I at the airport before she left us, "Dear Mom, how hurriedly answered. It was 10:00 p.m. did you like America?" "Mom, please watch the moon at 5:00 a.m. That was in 1989. She replied, "Everything is tomorrow morning. The blue moon will be closest nice here and why shouldn't it be? After all, this is a to the earth at that time," my older son reminded rich country. But, I enjoyed the nice blue sky here me, calling from Boston. the best, and the green grasses." 7/31/2015 I took her to see many malls, and many places, If anything unusual, rather lucky or unlucky including Niagara Falls, while she was here. happens to me today, I can say that it happened Surprised, I asked, "Why Mom? Every country "once in a blue moon." shares the sky and the land of green grasses. What's different here?" I woke up at 4:00 a.m. this morning. I went to the patio, looked at the beautiful full moon and the My adorable, petite beautiful seventy-two- innumerable stars in the limitless grayish blue sky. I year old mother replied, "In India, fog and pollution thanked God to be alive to enjoy the beauty of this stops me from seeing the beautiful sky reaching vast universe. At my long lived age, and after so infinity or the limitless green grasses. In the many years living here in the USA, I never before crowded city of Calcutta, because of the population took the time to enjoy the beauty like I have today. I density, grasses don't grow. Due to fog and was always too busy keeping my mind occupied pollution, I never see the beautiful blue sky or the with worldly distractions. moon and stars." This early morning is a very special today. It's Since then, every time I see a clear star- the morning when I can see large beautiful blue studded sky and cool soft green grasses in my moon appearing closer to the earth. According to backyard, I think of her. Not even a high school NASA Science news, the term 'blue moon' is based graduate, my dear Mom was married at the age of on modern folklore, which signifies the second full fourteen, but how wise her words were about the moon in a calendar, a rare occurrence. Usually there world and human life! She truely enjoyed the is one full moon in a month. According to NASA beauty of nature, God's creation, instead of earthly the blue moon may not actually be blue; it treasures made and acquired by humans. originates from some particular kind of Now I think, I've been a fool. For such a long atmospheric dust. A blue moon occurred in the USA time, I haven't enjoyed that which I can get here for on August 2012, and it will not occur again until free, for my personal enjoyment and satisfaction. I 2018. was too busy with the materialistic world and Because of this beautiful phenomena, I looked for mental satisfaction in the wrong places. thought of all the people I know and love. I This morning I admired my Mom again and the true remembered my mother's few words, which she beauty in this world. uttered just before she left after visiting me once It reminds me of another saying, "Linger a and she never returned. She stayed with me for just while, so fair thou art.” 27 FLASH OF THOUGHT Calcutta Cuisine Balarka Banerjee, Sydney, Australia

There has always been something a bit music and head towards dingy holes in the wall, different in the air in Calcutta. And it's not just stalls under blue tarp or familiarize one's self with diesel fumes. It's something more internal, more in the concept of sitting in a cabin (or to be more our blood. We Calcuttans have been exposed for a precise “kebin”). That is why, fine dining Calcutta very long time to such diverse ethnic and period style is more than just a meal. It's an expedition. An influences that we have evolved in a most adventure. A search. And sometimes (not that intriguing fashion indeed. This makes us so often) a test of one's courage and gastric tenacity. If frustratingly difficult to define, stereotype or type you ask a true Calcuttan where one can find the best cast. Unleashed upon the rest of the country, and rolls, or chilli chicken or kochuri they will now the world, we tend to bewilder people by our invariably name same unusual unheard of place and contradictory, cross pollinated natures which shine give you a lengthy discourse on why that particular through in everything we love and loath. While to food from that particular place is inarguably the us, the mutton loving Brahmin, the dhoti wearing finest in the world. If you ask a second Calcuttan the Oxford accented gentleman, and rosogolla same question he will give an entirely different downing, pocket watch carrying communist seem answer and spend the next few hours arguing with like everyday characters they tend surprise people the first chap. Therefore, it is impossible for my not entirely familiar with us. humble self to reach any sort of conclusion as to the “best in West Bengal”. It is equally infeasible for They say that the history of food is often the me to cover all of the mentioned culinary varieties history of a people. Indeed, the eclectic mix of that Calcutta has to offer. However, I will most cultures (to be more precise “kalchars”) that is we certainly try to present some choice Calcutta Calcuttans, is reflected perfectly in the cuisine that cuisine that one might be somewhat less aware of. we have so lovingly evolved over time. If we look closely, in Calcutta itself you can find culinary One of the great pillars of Calcutta snack food influences from Chinese, Tibetan, Thai, Afghan, has to be the deceptively simple and absolutely British, Scottish, Irish, Armenian, Jewish, mouth watering “roll”. Traditionally it consists of Burmese, Persian, Pakistani, Italian, French, Swiss chicken or mutton kebab wrapped in paratha. On a and many other ethnicities. Add to this the varied hot tava, the paratha goes on first and bakes until it national influences such as Punjabi, Sikkimese, is crisp, golden and deliciously flaky. At this point a Malayali, Goanese, Maharashtran, Hyderabadi, whipped egg might be poured onto the tava and Gujarati and so on and you have an almost carefully topped with the paratha. Once it cooks unending bouquet of variety. However, the best part through the egg coated paratha is laid on its back about food in Calcutta is that that the best of it is and tender kebab pieces are laid in its bosom and often not found in the fancy restaurants, cafes or wrapped up snuggly. The whole construction tastes bistros that one would see and naturally be more delicious and is the perfect one handed snack. familiar with. On the contrary, to truly experience Never overstuffed and never under it goes down in the delights of Calcutta “cuisine” one would have minutes and leaves the taste buds begging for more. to venture out of their comfort zones. Leave behind The history of the roll (or “kati roll”) is somewhat their air-conditoning, black tie waiters and ambient foggy and steeped in mythology. Its first 28 appearances can be traced back to as early as 1932 fantastic job indeed. Some choice ones are in Calcutta. Nizam's is widely credited with the “Kusum”, “Hot Kati Rolls” (on Park Street, below invention of the kati roll as we know it today. the Asiatic Society building, you can't miss the Legend has it that on a particularly busy night the aroma when you drive past), Campari, Beduin restaurant was running out of plates as there was a (Gariahat), Badshah (New Market) and Dhaba long string of orders for paratha and kebab. Which (Ballygunge Road). My personal favourite is when somebody came up with the ingenious idea however is a little hole in the wall at the end of of wrapping the two together, thus eliminating the Theatre Road (Shakespeare Sarani), opposite the need of plates altogether. Nizam's has always Sahara building. Their mutton rolls are simply prided itself on serving, the best, the most original addictive. and unadulterated rolls in town. In the golden years Old fashioned Mughlai food has been a of 60's and 70's its fame was widespread and it was mainstay of Calcutta for a fairly long time. When as much a landmark in central Calcutta as New the Mughal kings ruled Bengal, the rich aromatic Market or Globe cinema. A massively built Afghan man used to roam the streets around the cinemas in meat dominated cuisine was widely prevalent but the evening particularly on the weekends. Known perhaps not as popular among the locals. With the as “pehelwan” he would come up to people as they conquest of Bengal and the fall of Shiraj-ud-Dullah parked their cars for the evening show and took that type of cuisine diminished quite a bit and was their orders for kati rolls. Sure enough, he would restricted to certain pockets of society only. arrive with them, warm in his hands just before the However, after the failed revolt of 1857 the last show would start. “Pehelwan” is long gone now Mughal king in Delhi, Bahadur Shah Zafar, was and so has a lot of the charm of Nizam's. Despite chased out of the capital. He fled to Calcutta with several other places where you can get a roll now the remnants of his family and staff and was there is still something special about a Nizam's roll. ultimately exiled to Yangoon, where he died soon Sure they may have had to make concessions by after. However, most of his staff, servants, and selling paneer rolls and downsizing considerably, cooks stayed behind in Calcutta. By that time, the but the elderly lungi clad mullah who makes them people of Calcutta itself had changed into a more still looks as gruff as ever. He gets snappy if you versatile, cosmopolitan and open minded breed. It start asking too many questions about the spices is believed that the highly trained cooks of the food and once snatched away a roll from a friend of mine loving Bahadur Shah revived the Mughlai cuisine who requested him for some chilli sauce. in Calcutta in the late 19th Century. Many of the older Calcutta restaurants and eateries are said to The roll itself has been corrupted gradually have been started by them and has shaped over repeated copying and modification. In some Calcutta's love for its unique style of Mughlai places, the filling is not kebabs anymore, and has cuisine. been substituted by a spicy curry like mess. A number of condiments go in the rolls itself, such as The mainstay of Mughlai cuisine is the cucumbers, capsicum, tomatoes, chilli sauce, Biryani. Biryani is fragrant long grained rice, slow ketchup, and chutneys. “Arsalan” in Park Circus cooked with goat meat, potatoes and the key even makes a roll with Cheddar cheese. Not that ingredient, saffron among other spices in ghee. It is there is anything wrong with that. I personally the very epitome of the sinful decadence of the adore the double egg chicken roll from Anamika (a Mughal empire. Unlike some of the more road side stall in New Alipore) which is as derivative versions, original Biryani is cooked with corrupted as it gets but is the one of juiciest, tastiest a surprisingly few number of ingredients and rolls you will ever have. Nonetheless there are almost always with goat meat. The Calcutta many of the traditionalists still left and they do a biryani, is satisfyingly similar to its more authentic 29 Lucknow or Agra counterparts and is absolutely is hard to find. One of the best kabiraji cutlets I have delicious. People have gone to war over which tasted comes from a restaurant on M.G. road called Biriyani in the city rules supreme so that is not a “Dilkhusha”. Last time I was there, they claimed to controversy I want to get into. However, it suffices be the originator of the dish. Although details are to say that most of the best biriyani can be found at specky they believe it was created for the British the crossing of Park Street and AJC bose road. palate in the early 1900's. The name had always Rahmania, Lucknow and Shiraz are located right mystified me as “kabiraji” in Bengali refers to there. As a matter of fact, that is the start to herbal medication. I could not make the connection something a “biriyani strip” in the city which between cutlet and herbal drugs except for the fact stretches up to Park Circus. Next time you are there, that overindulgence of the former would definitely try it with some “chicken chaap” and definitely ask require the latter. But I was told by the owner of for some of the digesive yoghurt-mint drink to Dilkhusha (mira-di, if I recall correctly) that the wash it down. original name was coverage cutlet (referring to the egg white coating) which devolved into kabiraji in On the subject of Mughlai, one must mention the local dialect. As a matter fact, it was called the Bengali equivalent of “comfort food”, Moglai “fowl kabiraji cutlet” on their menu for many many paratha. The origins of this delicacy is quite vague years and that too was replaced by “chicken but it sounds like another brilliant kati roll like kabiraji”. deviation. This is basically minced meat and whipped egg stuffed into flaky white bread. Served As far as meat cutlets go, I must mention with a salad of red onions. It is fairly tricky to make “afghani cutlet” at the college street coffee house. I so a good moglai paratha is hard to come by, but one will refrain from discussing the coffee house itself, place that has mastered this delicacy is Anadi Cabin because volumes can be written about its tradition, on Jawaharlal Nehru road (just two clicks from heritage and ambience. Little is usually discussed Esplanade). Their absolutely divine preparation about its food or drink. Perhaps rightly so because I ensures that you will almost never be able to find a personally believe their coffee tastes like flavoured seat there upon arrival. If you haven't eaten at Anadi rain water. Nonetheless, the afghani cutlet must be Cabin you have missed out on a Calcutta institution mentioned. It's a mutton cutlet the size of one's no less significant than the Victoria Memorial. palm but cooked with some unusual spice While there, try the pudding. Trust me, it's not what combination and most notable, raisins, currants and you would expect. nuts. Overall it has a sweet and salty flavor, which is quite unique and is served with a slightly runny Let's move on to something a bit more international namely British. The “chop cutlet” gravy which soaks up nicely in some bread. culture of Calcutta is somewhat unique. Definitely If the presi/CU crowd claims dominion over a delicious Raj hangover. But don't expect the the mutton afghani, the Jadavapur gang brandish rather mild and insipid meat preparation of the UK. their “dhoper chop” in reply. Milonda's canteen The chop cutlets of Calcutta have been changed so came up with the treat (whose name in colloquial greatly that it has been completely emancipated Bengali translates to “rubbish”). It's half a boiled from its heritage. With delectable results. These are egg and half an ambiguous (but tasty) filling, rich, fiery, spicy and complicated affairs. Apart coated in breadcrumbs and fried. May not sound from the usual mutton, chicken and prawn you also like much but it does taste delectable. get some unusual ones. Such as the kabiraji cutlet, a chicken cutlet with a whipped egg coating that Instead of mutton and chicken if you prefer gives it a furry golden look and a delicious crunchy fish then you must try the fish fry and possibly the texture. This too is a rare delicacy. There are several fish roll. The fish fry is traditionally seasoned imposters and copy cats around, the genuine article bhetki coated in breadcrumbs and deepfried. The 30 fish roll is more creative. It's a bhetki fillet rolled is where you go for the real thing. There is a around a stuffing made out of another pureed and Chinese street market at Tiretta bazaar on Bentinck seasoned fish flesh (usually carp). Also coated in Street. It sets up at around 5:30 am and is sold out by breadcrumbs and deep fried. Both of these are hard seven. It is not strange or surprising for Calcuttans to find in their nascent forms. Cheaper copies tend to stay up all night, clubbing, driving or simply to be heavy on seasoning and lean on fish. The sitting around indulging in adda. When the night undoubted leader for both is “Bijoligrill”, seems to inexplicably disappear and your friends originally located near Bijoli cinema in start feeling hungry, it's time to hit Tiretta Bazaar. Bhowanipore. They are also a premium caterer for Street vendors mostly sell homemade traditional marriages and other social functions so next time Chinese food. There are light soothing broths with you are in Calcutta try to get yourself invited to an fish ball or chicken feet. There are heavier schezuan upmarket wedding. broths which can lift the top of your head right off but works great against a hangover. Then there are Tibetan food has caught on off late in Calcutta steamed buns, dumblings and spicy sausages. The and is the newest addition to the Calcutta snack smells and sounds are intoxicating and its seediness cuisine smorgasboard. Momo's are Tibetan as its charm and somehow only in Calcutta does it dumplings made off a garlicy meat stuffing, best not seem unusual to be starting a Sunday morning enjoyed with a hot chilli sauce and a light spring- like this. onion soup called thupka. A few Tibetan families had started the trend decades ago when they used to For more authentic Chinese food one must make these momo's in their own kitchen and sell always venture to Tangra. That is no secret at all. packets of them well informed foodies out of their Although there are quite a few more mainstream living room. One of the better known of these restaurants there now, there are still a few old families lived on Elgin road. As the elderly family fashioned ones, which we always seek out. When moved on, the place was converted into a restaurant you go to those, the cook-cum-waiter takes your which soon became a series of restaurants. The order. He brings you some beers and you are better known of these is Momo Plaza which is expected to take your time with them as he goes located of street now known as Suburban Hospital around back to catch a chicken for your chilli Road. The décor is shoddy (almost scary), the chicken. It's plucked, skinned and cooked right in front of you. Just be careful when you order “one tables and chairs are weak but the food is to die for. chilli chicken please” as it can actually be an entire They serve momo's and a lot of them. There is the chicken cooked for you. Like almost every type of classic steamed ones or the tastier fried ones and food, Chinese in Calcutta has evolved and changed, then a lot of evolved ones culminating in the “pan- adapting itself to the local palate and ingredients. fried chilli momo's” which is only for the brave of Now, there is a Chinese restaurant on every corner heart. and road side stalls will toss up chow-mein, chilli Chinese food in Calcutta has also been a long chicken and fried rice alongside egg-rolls. If you tradition. It is now so well assimilated into Bengali can put aside puritan tastes then you might just food habits now that it is sometimes impossible to indulge in and enjoy some of the local Chinese. I for think of it as foreign. As a matter of fact, Indian one love my “hakka chowmein” with its strong style Chinese food is now widely accepted as a style pepper seasoning. Chinese food in Calcutta has unique and singular like Singaporean or Malaysian developed its own language. “Hakka chow” means Chinese. It all started, from a group of Chinese dry noodles whereas “gravy chow” is cornflour immigrants, predominantly from the Hakka and thickened gravy poured over boiled noodles. Cantonese provinces, who settled in a part of “Chilli” refers to a dry dish with a thick soy based Calcutta known as Tiretta Bazaar. Even today that gravy with finely chopped green chillies. 31 “Manchurian” usually refers to meat or veggies ginger ale and lemonade punch, mango tea, fried in a coating and dipped in a hot and sweet grapefruit tea and even one with soda and a dollop sauce. So next time you are in Kolkata, give the big of ice-cream. Nonetheless, one of the most boys like Mainland China, or Chinoiserie a pass refreshing and unique drinks I have ever tasted is and try out the Manchurian chicken and sweet corn “daaber shorbot” at “Paradise” behind college soup at your dimly lit neighbourhood joint. You square. The place has been there forever and they might just like it. make a number of soda or milk shake type drinks. “Daaber shorbot” is an unique blend though made The repressive humidity of Calcutta usually from coconut water mixed with possibly some takes its toll on people and staying hydrated is very mint, dash of lime and other things which makes it important indeed. Which brings us to beverages. one of the most refreshing drinks I have ever had. These days with surfeit of Coffee houses it is difficult to see beyond the 50 rupee mochas, So there we have it. A small sampling of the cocoas, lattes or the smoothies, slushies and vast and complicated variety of flavours and crushies. I have never been a big fan of these aromas that is Calcutta cuisine. The list is by no establishments and despite their fancy décor the means complete or comprehensive. I have made coffee usually still tastes like dishwater. The places absolutely no mention of Putiram's telebhaja, are good for teenagers on first dates but if you want Ujjala chanachur, the alurdom off Viviekananda a real drink to pick you up, you should try the tea at park, the phuchkas at Maidan, kosha mangsho from Balwant's. This pre-independence dhaba on Harish Golbari, phulkopir singhara, mochar chop from Mukherjee Road (opposite the gurudwara) serves Aponjon, dahi vada, mishti doi, rosogolla, or notun over a thousand portions of Punjabi milk tea a day. gurer shondesh. Alas, they must be saved for Their secret (although probably not the real one) is another time. that they never expose the tea to direct heat. Leaves in a pouch are immersed in boiling water. Once However, the lesson here my friends is that the infused, milk is added and the whole thing is placed best food in Calcutta is never where you would in a water bath. Regardless of the procedure, the expect to find it. Just as most things Bengali, final product is pure elixir. However, if you fancy a nothing is as it seems. The dingiest, darkest, dirtiest more sophisticated tea drinking experience, you corners of this mad city hide the most mind must try Dolly's tea house in Dakshinapan. Started expanding food you will ever taste. Deep fried in by India's first woman tea taster this place has a tradition, seasoned with mythology and garnished relaxed, typically Calcutta feel. The tea itself is by a dash of bewildering charm, the food of unique. Not only can you get some cup of the Calcutta is more than hunger quencher. It's an regular stuff you can experiment with fruit blends, experience.

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Annyasha Mukherjee Roy, Minnesota, USA

LAU CHAPRA GHONTO Soya keema chilly: Add white oil in kadai, once the oil is Ingredients: Grated Lau or green gourd-1pc, Methi heated add onion slices, chopped garlic, ginger and bell (fenugreek) seeds, Kalonji or black cumin seeds, Red dry pepper. Fry until onion becomes slightly brown. Prepare a chillies-3, bay leaves, two handful of yellow split chanadaal mixture of soya sauce, hot and sweet sauce, sriracha sauce, soaked overnight until it get swollen, salt according to taste, chilli sauce, salt, red chilli powder and water. Then add this baking powder (optional), turmeric powder, ginger paste, mixture to the kadai and cook for 5 minutes. Then add the Asofoetida or hing, sugar, red chilli powder, mustard oil or soya chunks, cook it and then keep it aside. canola oil, ghee. Preparing the batter- take 2 eggs, cornflour according to the Procedure of Making Chanakabab: amount, and water and mix it. This is the batter for the croquette. Drain the water from chanadaal and then paste the daal in grinder. Pour the daal paste in a vessel and then add a pinch of Croquette- Breads are soaked a bit with water and then hing, turmeric powder, green chilli cut into pieces, baking removed the brown part of it. Then roll the cooked soya powder, red chilli powder, salt and sugar according to taste, chunks with bread and take a slice of cheese, roll it and deep it and lastly add Luke warm oil and then mix it well. Form a in batter and then cover with bread crumbs, and then deep fry shape of flat kabab and then deep fry it. in canola oil mixed with ghee. This is served hot with sauce. Procedure of Making Sabji: COCONUT PATTIES Add oil to a kadai and once the oil is heated , then add methi Ingredients: Grated coconut, onion finely chopped, white seeds, kalanji, red dry chilli, and bay leaves. The add grated flour or maida, ghee, canola oil, luke arm water, salt. lau in that, stir it well for 5 minutes and then cover it with lid. Preparation: To make the dough take maida, add a pinch of After 5 minutes take off the lid and add salt, sugar, red chilli salt, ghee, a bit of oil and water and then make a dough. Then powder and green chilli, stir for 7 minutes. Then put the lid on form the shape of poori or kachori using the dough and then and cook for 15 minutes. Open the lid after 15 minutes and add grated coconut, chopped onion and chopped chilly to then smash the chanakababs with hand mix in the curry and cover all sides of the poori (like Mughlai paratha) and then cook another 2-3 minutes. Add ghee and ginger paste cook deep fry in mixed oil and ghee. Serve hot with sauce. for another 2-3 minutes.To be served with rice. CHEESE PARATHA Total time required is 30 minutes. Ingredients: Grated cheese, chaat masala, sahmarich (white SOYA CROQUETTE pepper), amchur powder (optional), maida, butter, luke warm Ingredients: Soya bean keema, bread, cheese slice, egg water, salt, finely chopped onion and finely chopped green (optional), cornflour, bread crumbs, onion finely chopped, chillies. soyasauce, garlic chopped, ginger chopped and a bit of paste, Preparation: At first, make a dough of maida with salt, bell pepper, red chilli powder, green chillies finely chopped, butter, lukewarm water and then make a shape of a round ball Maggie hot and sweet sauce, sriracha sauce, chilli sauce from dough. Now mix chaat masala, grated cheese, amchur (optional), salt, white oil, ghee. powder, sahmarich, chopped onion, chopped green chilli, Soya could be boiled and then make chunks by and make a shape of paratha; add a bit of maida powder and grinding it. then deep fry in oil. Serve hot with daam aloo. 33 “If you cry because the sun has gone out of your life, your tears will prevent you from seeing the stars.”

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