F O O D F O R T H E

T R O P I C S

BEI NG A SHORT DESCRIP TI ON OF NATI VE P R ODUCE SUITABLE FOR FOOD I N TROP ICAL COUN TR I ES

T. M. MACK NI GHT II I

S U RGEON GENER' ALS o m c a

- 3 JUL l 6r 9 04

- .w “ WI m u -M n “

LON DON

2 CR EED NE THACK ER c o ., , LA ,

A K E R S P I N K C 0 . CALCU TTA " T H C ,

K ER CO LI M I D. BOM BAY " THAC , TE

1 90 4

Al l rig hts reserv ed V’H‘B9

WPRINTE D BY M OWso us M TE C ES AN D ILLIA L , LI I D , LONDON AND BECCLES . P R E F A C E

WHEN in Queensland , Australia , carrying on the business o f n a tropical produce mercha t , I was much surprised to find that no reliable bo ok could be procured giving a n complete descriptio , in a small space , of the various

f o r kinds of food , suitable human consumption , which could be obtained in tropical countries . d I thought at first that there was a scarcity of such foo , but soon came to learn that every constituent of food in the temperate zone can be obtained in o ne form o r another in

o o f the torrid z ne , and that the indigenous products a tropical country are more suitable as food for the inhabitants than any which can be imported from another country having a totally diff erent climate.

to My object in writing this little book is explain , to the

o f n best my ability, the various kinds of products fou d in different countries , with the local names they bear , the

various properties they contain , and how they can best be utilized for the purposes of food.

T. M . MACKNIGHT.

G NE O LAGU NA TENERIFF E T , , E,

December, 19 03 .

C O N TE N TS

CHAP TER I .— INTRODU CTI ON

CHAP TER I I .— BREAD

P AG E B re a dfruit 14 P l a nta in Bul rush Mil l et 8 Ra gi Guinea Co m 3 Ric e M a iz e 4 S a go M a nio c 10

CHAP TER I I I .— P OTATO

S we et Ca ssa va 23 Ta ro S we et P o ta to 22 Ya m

CHAP TER V.— B U TTER

4 2 P a ta wa Oil 4 3 P ino t 3 3 S a puca ia Nut 3 7 S hea B utte r 4 2 S o ua ri Nut 4 1 Til 3 6 Tucuma 3 4 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

CHAP TER VI .— VEGETAB LES P AGE B o ttl e Go urd 4 7 Ochro Cho cho 4 6 P a pa w Co untry F re nch B ea n 53 P ursl a ne Egg P l a nt 4 5 Re d B a sil I nd ia n Spina ch 4 9 S a g ’ Jews M a l l o w 52 S im K a re l a 4 9 S na ke G o urd Luffa 50 Whi te Go urd

CHAP TER VI I .— S U GAR

B a mb o P a l m 6 3 Gumuti P a l m B a na na 6 8 I ta P a l m B l a c k Run P a l m 56 M a gue y B uriti 6 6 M a ri P a l m Ca ho un 6 7 Nipa P a l m Ca rna ub a P a l m 6 5 P a l myra P a l m Co c o -nut 6 8 S uga r-c a ne 5 Wil D Da te S ug a r P a l m 7 d a te P a l m 4 104 Do um P a l m 6 ,

CHAP TER VI II . —FRU IT

Ano na S ene ga l ensis 84 La ngsa t Asa m G el ugur 85 Li che e Nut B a o b a b 84 Li me Caj u 73 Ma ngo Ca ra mb ol a 84 M a ngo stee n Ca she w-N ut 73 M o b o l a Cherimo ye r 77 P a pa w Custa rd Appl e 78 P ine -a ppl e Duria n 76 P ume l o Gra na dil l a 81 R o se l l a G ua v a 74 S a po dil l a Ja b uti 85 S o ur S o p Ja c k Fruit 80 Ta ma rind 83 Wa te r Me l o Ja mb u n

CHAP TER I X.— BEVERAGES

86 K o l a 88 Ye rb a Ma té CON TE N TS ix

CHAPTER X.— P AGE B e tel Le a ves 100 Nutme g Ca psicum 9 4 P ime nto Ca r a mo m 9 8 9 9 Ra vintsa ra d , Chil l i 9 4 Turme ric Cinna mo n 9 5 VWa nil l a Cl o ve s 9 7 e st Af rica n P e pper in e r 10 2 W G g il d Cinna mo n Mel e gueta P e pper 9 9

CHAP TER XI .— P RODU CTS NOT ANALYZED

Do um P a l m 10 4 P ea chnut Ma npa ta s 105

AP P ENDI CES

I . P e rcenta ge Co mpositio n o f Foo d o f Te mpera te Zone Tropica l Zone I I . Bibl io gra phy II I. Fishes IV. Tro pica l Seed Mercha nts

FOOD FOR THE TROP ICS

CHAPTER I

I N TR OD U CTI ON

THE tropics extend from latitude 23 4 north to 23 }7 south . In this zone the rainy season occurs during the summer and the products mentioned in this book are suited to grow under such conditions . Perhaps a few words in regard to the chemistry of food . d re will be found useful To be healthy , the human bo y quires certain nourishment as follows

h Water, Starc , P roteids , Sugar,

Fat, Salts

but proteids , starch , and fat are generally considered the

o . E f o r m st important In uropean food , meat is eaten its

. f o r u proteids ; potatoes , bread , etc , the starch ; and b tter f o r " fish . f or the fat in tropical food , , peas , beans , etc ,

. f o r d proteids millet , manioc , yam , etc , starch ; groun nut o il o il . f o r . , til , etc , fat (butter) h The next point is t at , having gained an intelligent

o f o f o f d com knowledge the chemistry each article foo , the

' bina l zons can be arranged according to the Europea n style. 8 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Curry a nd rice are somewhat similar to the European meat

. C not , course urry does mean curry powder only , but fish

o r . a - ’ beans , etc , with veget bles , coco nut, spices (curry . R powder) , etc ice is boiled separately, and would corre spond to the potatoes or bread . A list o f books has been added in the Append ix o n p. 1 10 . These can be consulted f o r fuller informatio n in

. o f o f regard to the local names , cultivation , etc , some the products mentioned in this book . CHAPTER II

B RE AD

ANI OC M , maize , and the millets are very similar to bread but sago , unripe plantain , and breadfruit do not contain so much proteid .

Guinea Corn or Great Millet

And ro o on sor hum S or hum Vul a re Hol cus ( p g g , or g g , or sorghum)

De C andolle says this plant is a native of tropical Africa ,

ff o n so but other authors di er the point , as it is universally cultivated throughout the tropics. It is called Juar in the Hindustani language ; Sorgho ’ (French) ; Sorgo o Millo (Spanish) ; Durrah (North Africa and Arabia ) Gha f ouly (desert tribes and darker races of

D H Ka fii r C the Soudan) awa ( aussa) orn , and a variety Imphee (South Af rica ) Cholam or So a l um (Tamil) Jo nna l o o or Jonna (Telegu) Mijo (Venezuela) Kau-liang (China) Miohel l a (Abyssinia) Pyo ung (Burmah) and

Kisa a hil i E . Matama ( w and Wanyamwezi , ast Africa) The

grain is round , rather flat , and larger than a seed .

o f a nd It is the principal grain tropical Africa , is 4 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

. extensively cultivated throughout India , West Indies , etc ,

growing best on black soil where it is not too swampy , as the plant rots if allowed to stand in water. At harvest time in India the heads are cut off with twelve inches o f

stalk attached to them , dried for two days , left in heaps

st . for three weeks , and afterwards acked To separate the

o ff grain , the heads are cut and thrashed with sticks or Palmyra Palm leaf-stalks . The white-grained varieties are considered to be the best. “ Watt says that to the vast majority o f the people of India (if Bengal be excluded) Juar and Bajra are of greater ” E importance than wheat or rice , and Sir Walter lliot calls it the staple dry grain of India. The Madras Presidency 1 889 - 9 0 in had acres of cholam (juar) , and the

o f R area for the whole India , as gathered from the eturns D sent in by various Agricultural epartments , was acres but more than this is cultivated .

Th o r n e seeds are ground into meal flour, and eate as “ ” cakes or porridge . The ficco ry of the Soudan is com

o f posed the crushed seeds mixed with milk or water, and seasoned with bird peppers . D sa uthie and Fuller y that the dry stalks and leaves , chopped into small pieces , form the ordinary cattle fodder for some months in the year.

Maiz e

(Zea Ma ys)

De Candolle says this grain is probably a native C . . Granada , olumbia , etc , in South America B RE A D J

The pistillate flowers are developed within the leaf-sheath

o at the nodes f the stem , and consist of a rachis called the

co b with the ova o n it in rows , a long thread attached l ” to each embryo ca led the silk , the whole covered by a mass of imbricated leaves folded together quite closely a t “ ” the tips called the husks . The whole organ is called ” the ear. On account of the ease with which the pollen is o ut carried by the wind , varieties which are wanted to come true must be grown at some distance from each other .

In the United States , taking the annual average of the 1 8 1—81 52 . years 7 , its area was more than per cent of that o f devoted to cereals , and its value greater than that all the other crops combined .

n . In harvesti g there are two methods First , where the

corn is grown for the grain alone , it is allowed to stand untouched in the field till the grain is matured and hard

to the ears are then husked from the stalks , which are left be trodden down by cattle or ploughed into the soil . The best grain is thus obtained.

The second , or more general method , is to cut the entire mass of the cr0 p near the ground as soon as the grain is glazed on the surface and the fodder is changed from a

dark to a light green , and to set it in what are called ” o o r shocks r stooks , either as loose stalks after it has been tied in bundles . When the grain is suffi ciently dry

to store , the ears are husked and the whole crop taken from the field .

o f Taking the value both corn and fodder into account , the latter is the better method . P orcher says that the tender green ears , stripped of leaves

and then roasted by a quick fire till the grain is brown , 6 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

are a delicacy when ea ten with a little salt o r o il . The

riper and harder grain is boiled in the leaves , and eaten

o il . with The tender green grains , dried , may be kept all

o the year round , and used boiled (first s aking some hours . in water) Ground into finer meal and boiled, it is eaten

Oil with milk or ; or it can be mixed with water and salt, and baked into a cake. P arched maize is prepared as follows z— Fill an iron pot with sand and set it on the fire till the sand is very hot.

Two t to three pounds of grain are hen put in , and mixed with the sand by stirring , which causes each grain to burst and throw out a white substance o f twice its size . It is t then separated from the sand wi h a sieve , and the latter is returned to the pot to parch fresh grain . The parched

is maize pounded to powder in mortars , and this , being

f . si ted , will keep a long time Another authority says that the sweet variety (sugar corn) furnishes a most palatable dish when the ears are

the taken green and boiled , seeds being eaten from the

o ff cob with salt, pepper , and oil ; or cut and served in milk.

H i d is n ulled corn , a much rel she dish , prepared by taki g shelled corn of a superior quality and boiling it in weak lye (made from wood ashes) until the hull or cuticle cover ing the grain is loosened . It is then put in cold water ff and the hulls rubbed o with the hands , care being taken

o f not to break the form the kernel , and the grain washed to remove all taste o f the lye ; after which it is boiled till

f or . so t , and served in milk , with oil and sugar In the Southern States o f America the grain is often simply ground coarsely , and after the chaff has been B RE AD

“ ” o r w o r removed by washing winno ing , is called grits ,

This , when boiled , is eaten with sugar and

o r o il t . milk , with , sal , and pepper Maize is the chief food

o f grain Tropical America , and is also used to an immense

o n C extent in Tropical Africa , especially the West oast ; likewise in India . t In Venezuela the grains are soaked in water , their ou er

o r o n shells hulls removed by p undi g in wooden mortars ,

o and , being subsequently winn wed , the pulpy mass (without ff the cha ) is then shaped into little round cakes , which are ba ked o n hot iron plates cal led budare these little ” brea ds are called arepas. The white varieties are the best f o r human food . ” Succotash is the succulent ears o f maize when nearly

o ff w B . full grown , cut , and cooked ith Lima eans Maize

o n o f flour alone is not adapted to make bread , account its deficiency in gluten .

Used alone , like oatmeal , it is made into a cake , and this , “ in when roasted , is South America called tortilla ; and “ in the form o f po rridge with milk is called corn lob in British Honduras . Hominy makes a good pudding with the usual ingredients

— o r nut sugar , eggs , grated cocoanut , cinnamon , vanilla ,

- . C meg, and coco nut milk old boiled hominy can be fried

o r . and eaten with peas , beans , groundnuts

Grits a re e r fi nel ul ve ri z e a nd ha ve no hul l . v y y p d , ' Ho min ha s no hul l a nd i s c o a rse l b ro k e n u . 1 y , y p 8 FOOD F OR THE TR OP I CS

Bulrush Millet

’ (P eumsetum typhoid eum)

N E Dr. A native of tropical Asia , ubia, and gypt ; Watt says it is indigenous to the plains of India , where the ” Hindustani name for it is Bajra . It is cultivated in the same area with Guinea Corn as a rainy-season crop in N - C orth West, entral , and South India , but more especially in Bombay acres) and Madras acres) .

It is also grown in Spanish America , where , I believe , it is called Milho Pequeno ; and on the coast o f West Africa from Senegal to the Gold Co ast .

Gussub B It is called (Sahara , Soudan , and ornou)

Herneh N Do khn Ga ntel u . ( ubia) (Arabic) , etc (Telegu)

tta i N a ssa l a nd Ma r (Malay) ; Kambu (Tamil) ; Matesi ( y ,

E E. Ma nsa ro ke .Africa) Gero (Somaliland , Africa) and (Portuguese West Africa) .

Millet grows best on rather dry sandy soil , and requires perhaps less rain than Guinea Corn ; it suff ers from damp and rainy weather when in flower . The cultivation is i C sim lar to Guinea orn , and there are often fifteen hundred seeds on o ne Spike . Fo r food the seeds with husks are well pounded in deep

o l o f o wooden m rtars, and c eared husks by repeatedly p uring sifted portions from o ne calabash to another at a sufficient height to enable the wind to get at it . The grain minus the husk i s then returned to the mortars and beaten into

o r to soft flour , sometimes ground fine flour between two

o f . C o f stones , and made into a kind bread leared husks ,

mel a pounded, and made into a paste in which a little o hei

I O F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

m The straw makes excellent fodder , and is said to i prove

. by keeping, In Mysore cattle work on it alone

Manioc, or Bitter Cassav a

' (Ma nihot util issz ma )

This plant is widely dispersed througho ut Tropical America where it is indigenous and cultivated ; it is also

n . grown in ma y other tropical countries , especially Africa Mandioca is the Brazilian name ; Cassava (West Indies and certain parts o f Africa) ; Yuca Amarga (Venezuela) ; Mangahazo (Madagascar) Ma ra cheenie (Malay) Ma ra vul l ie

Ma n o kka C Mo ho o (Tamil) ; gy ( eylon) ; g (Wanyamwezi , East Africa) and Juca or Yucca (P eru and Hayti). B It is generally known as the itter Mandioca , but in B n razil is simply called Mandioca , bei g the chief kind cultivated . P ecko l t describes twenty—o ne varieties . In C C h B B ayenne the varieties are Maie , ac iri , ois lanc , and Mai-pourri -rouge . It l - is a large ha f shrubby plant with very large roots , which weigh sometimes as much as twenty pounds ; three to eight plants grow in a cluster. The leaves are near the extremities of the branches , being large and deeply seven parted . In South America the roots are taken up in from nine

w o r to t elve months , as required ; they are then well

o ff o r washed , and the skin being scraped , are grated d rasped the pulp is then pressed to get the juice out , ried o n hot metal plates , and pounded into meal , which is called “ ” farinha. The pressure and heat are for the purpose o f B RE AD I I

removing the poisonous principle contained in the juice .

f o r a . The meal , if well dried, will keep a ye r The root in

no t f o r the green state does keep good long , but will do so if sliced and dried in the sun.

Ba mm o f o f y cake is the name a thick kind cassava cake , made in Jamaica. These ca kes are made by gently heating

o n - the meal a flat, broad , round iron , called a baking stone , and the n drying in the sun. They a re eaten d aily in l Tropical America , and , if cooked til they are brown , will keep sweet and wholesome many months . The Bitter Mandioca does no t become soft by boiling .

is h The poisonous principle ydrocyanic acid (prussic acid), and the highest quantity found in any variety is 0 0 76 0 . H in per cent ydrocyanic acid is very soluble water , and very vol atile .

Ca sa ree o r cfissiri e o r p, p , a sauce made from m the juice , is in the highest estee in Guiana , South w America , here it is employed to flavour almost every

o f dish , and is the basis the favourite West Indian dish “ ” called pepperpo t. P epperpo t consists of ca sa reep with

. Ca sa ree va o peppers (chillies) , and fish p is made by e p B rating and concentrating the itter Mandioca juice , and combining with it vario us spices . The poisono us principle o f so the juice is dissipated in the evaporation , that although i the juice in the fresh state is read ly fatal to life , the sauce is perfectly safe and wholesome . It is also a powerful

t o f an iseptic , and meat can by means it be kept quite fresh f o r . a long time , even in a tropical climate 1 2 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Rice

’ (Oryeu suhuu)

R C ice is extensively cultivated in India , hina , the West

di C . o ne In es , and entral America More than hundred varieties are grown in India and Ceylon alone . Paddy is the name given to the seed when enclosed in

us the husk and , as the h k adheres very closely , care must be exercised to enable its removal to be eff ected without n damagi g the grain . After the husk has been removed, the

grain is passed through a whitening machine , which removes

o r t the inner cuticle red skin , and the produc forms the rice met with in the shops . In some places paddy is prepared as follows The paddy

is placed in large wooden boxes , and beaten with wooden

e o r to p stles a yard more long , separate the husk from the white grain within ; it is then scooped o ut into a shal low

o f o f tray closely woven ratten work , circular form , and

two in about feet in diameter, which it is sifted by being

u so c ha fl thrown p in the air that the is blown away , the grain falling back into the tray. When finished the grains are perfectly clean and white.

R o ice is used for making int puddings , cakes , and bread

and , when cooked , each grain should be separate , yet soft to . n the heart When boili g , only use enough water to cover w it ; simmer on a slo fire , taking out the water by degrees

so with a spoon that the grain may be dry, and remove from the fire when just short of burning . B RE A D I 3

Sago

(Metrozeg/l on sogu)

B New A native of the Moluccas , Sumatra , orneo , Guinea ,

C . - o r C elebes , etc It is called Sagu dana , Sagu hawul in

Hindustani ; Sagu (Malay) ; Sikumi (Chinese) ; and Ranbaya . m - (Molucca) The sago pal is a low and thick set tree , and flourishes in low marshy situations .

When about fifteen years old it is ready for yielding ,

o f o f the whole interior the stem being full spongy matter , around which is a rind o f hard woo d . Should the tree

n is tree flower and the fruit ripe , all this absorbed , and the B u w dies . efore this occ rs the trees are cut do n , the stem cut into lengths , split up , and the pith extracted and grated to powder. i w is Th s po der then kneaded with water and strained , the sago passing through the strainer and the woody fibre remaining behind . The starchy fluid is then floated into

s . o ne o r trough , and the sago settles at the bottom After

. two washings , it is considered fit for domestic purposes

f o r Sago intended domestic use is made into biscuits ,

m . which , if kept dry, may be preserved a very long ti e It w is also dried and made into sago meal , from hich a variety o f . s dishes can be made Sago is eaten with beans , pea , . groundnut , etc E A In the ast Indian rchipelago , the islands to the west

. use rice , but to the east sago takes its place I 4 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Breadfruit

(Artoca rpus incisa )

P o f robably a native Java , Amboyna , and the neigh b o uring islands . In Venezuela it is called Arbol de P a n ; S o oko o n (Malacca and Sumatra) Fruteira de Pa o ()

So ccum Ca So ccum R Soccus , or pas (Malay) ; (Java) ; ina (Ladro ne Islands) P o -lo-mih (China) and Reina (French) . In Singapore the fruit with the rough rind is called

l uwa So o ko o n. K e y, but with the smooth rind I t is propagated by means of suckers from the root, of which there are an abundance .

D B Ba l k There are thirteen varieties , but ina uco and e a na are the best . In Fiji the two most co mmon varieties are Uto-dina and U to -buco . The name U to -d ina (True or Genuine Bread fruit) is probably given because of the good quality o f the w . fruit, hich is said to be undisputed It has pinnatisect w leaves with smooth surface ; fruit ithout seeds , nearly

Spherical , with smooth surface and stalks four to five inches

. U t0 ~b uco in length has leaves similar to the last, with t fruit ovate obtuse , larger ithan others , withou seeds , and smooth surface when ripe. Uto-sore is the only variety

o ne which yields ripe seeds , leading to suppose that it is the parent o f all the others . If a good fruiting variety

is required , take suckers or cuttings from the roots o f Uto-dina. The more flat and smooth the wait s o n the

outer surface of the fruit , the greater the quantity of pith it will contain . S ore means a seed.

B d o r n ho t readfruit is roasted , boiled , steame , cooked o B RE AD 1 5

embers , and kept turning for fifteen to twenty minutes , the skin being scraped o ff very gently . In Amboyna it is

o n t e roasted coals till the rind is burnt , then peeled , and h kernel cut into pieces and eaten with coco-nut milk . Others make fritters o f it . In Sumatra it is cut in slices

and boiled ; o r fried and eaten with sugar ; o r the s o ft d w internal part is ried in slices , and used hen required thus prepared it will keep a long time . When the bread fruit is peeled and mashed it can be made into a pudding

o il o r with sugar , eggs , , nutmeg, cinnamon .

In Kew Gardens Museum , London , breadfruit biscuits

from Jamaica are shown , being pieces o f the fruit sliced and sun-dried .

The leaves make excellent fodder f o r cattle ; they are also used for the roofs o f native dwell ing-places . “C ” Sagot , in ultures Tropicales , states that the best varieties (whi ch are seedless) are Rare and Pueru. These are probably Tahitian names .

Plantain

' Muse sa zeutum . a ra digmatic ( p , var p )

o f C . A native ontinental and Insular India, etc It is

o r Pl a ta nier P s n called Plantain en Arbre , (French) ; i a g t P P (S raits Settlements) ; latano Arton ( eru , Mexico , and Ne wGranada) ; Katch Kél a (Hindustani and Bengali) Ana wa l u-kesel (Singhalese) ; Zapala (Mexico) ; Ah-ka w

B d o f B e ndaw (Mpo ngwe and enga ialect antu, W st Africa) and Platano Turco (Bolivia) . I 6 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

The fruit is longer and larger than the Banana . The following are the best varieties grown in the diff erent countries of the tropical world

INDIA l In Madras , a large plantain known in the Tami language

Mo nthen o ne f B n as , is o the commonest. In e gal the Katch Kulla (the cooking plantain of the Europeans) of a large size ; and Firminger states that the most extensively

t Kuntel a -C o r cul ivated is the , also the Mahl hog Mohun

C K n l a Arra ca n Hnet hog , in quality like the u te . In , the pyan-meng is very large.

INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO

’ Musu cormculutu the d , a native of Malay Islan s and

C B o i C C Cochin China (called huoi in ochin hina) , is very P P P n good ; also isang Abu , isang Soldado, and isa g Al phuru. P l isang Tandok , a very arge horned variety , common in

B . o ne orneo , etc ; it is foot in length and two inches in d iameter.

AFRICA

On Lake Tanganyika there is a variety called Miko us ’ “ ” . D i .252 t hembu Stanley (in arkest Africa , vol. ., p )

- Ya nb u a saw plantains twenty two inches long beyond y , and again at Bo koko ro some seventeen and o ne -half inches

vo l . . . 55 in length ; and (in ii , p ) abnormally large plantains were found at Andata and And ikamu.

1 8 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

gently over the fire , mashing them into a pulp , and then moulding into lumps. In Fiji the grated plantain is h - made into a pudding wit coco nut milk, sugar, and grated coco -nut. In Cuba it is cooked in slices with Oil. A N D E In the lbert yanza istrict, ast Africa , plantains ,

sun when peeled , are cut into thin slices , dried in the till

. crisp , then stored in granaries till required t In India , plantain meal is obtained by peeling the frui , n . slicing , dryi g in the sun till crisp , and then grinding This meal is called conquinta y in the West Indies B and ritish Guiana , where it is highly esteemed and extensively used.

sa Some y that , after removing the skin , the slightly mealy thin layer o n the outer surface should be scraped o ff m . before use , as it is so ewhat bitter “ It would be a good plan to confine the name Plantain to the large variety which is always gathered and cooked “B while green , and anana to the product which is allowed to ripen before use .

H o n In Mexico , umboldt calculated that e acre planted w with plantains was sufficient to support fifty men , hilst the same area in wheat would barely support the wants o f three . CHAPTER III

P O TA TO

ALL the following articles o f food are somewhat similar to

o f P t h the potato , with the exception the Sweet o ato , w ich contains a varying amount o f sugar.

Ya m

(Dioscoreu) It is called Inhame (Spanish and P ortuguese) Igname (French) Ovy (Madagascar) Aj es (Cuba) Cara (Brazil) Ca mb a res (Island of Bourbon) and Na ma in (Carib) . The six most important varieties are as follows

' Dzoscoreua l o ha — n - o f The Wi g stalked Yam , a native India

. U vi o r and the South Sea Islands It is called , Ubi , in the

o f t P fi . - o r Islands the Sou h aci c , Java , etc Kham alu ,

Kham (Hindustani and Bengali) ; Ima (Terna te) ; Lami H B - (Macassar) ; eli (Amboyna) ; Lutu ( anda) ; Khoai tia , etc.(Cochin-China) P erum-vul l ie-kalangu (Tamil) Gudi mid o nd a - end a l a m . P erinv ul l ie-kel un hu p , etc (Telegu) ; and g (Malay) . 8 This tuber is sometimes feet in length , and weighs 20 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

l b s. - n up to 80 The stems are four a gled , with wide spreading wings along the margins . This is generally considered the best variety, and if well dried in the sun , covered with ashes or sand, or put in casks , it will keep for many months . Dioseoreugl o bosu.— Called Chupri-alu in the Hindustani and Bengali languages . Dioscorea a culeuto .— The Prickly-stemmed Yam Manalu

(Hindustani) Kawai (Fiji) ; Afou , or Yellow , or Guinea Yam (West Indies) Cara de Guinée (Brazil) . The stem

no o - . is round , and requires supp rt or trellis work It is the smallest and the most delicately flavoured variety , - ripening later than the Wing stalked Yam , and is generally

o ff . rather sweet ; when cooked , the skin peels easily

e This tuber will keep for nearly a y ar, and Seeman says it is o ne o f the finest esculents o n the earth.

Dioscoreu a tro ur urea .— D P p p ark urple Yam , or Malacca - Yam ; Myo uk ny (Burmah) ; and sometimes sold in Calcutta as Rangoon Yam .

o f . The tubers are , like the stems , a deep purple colour - The leaf stalks are winged , and the stem grasps its support. P It is extensively cultivated in egu , Malacca , and the Eastern Islands. This variety is considered the third best yam in India.

Dioscorea bututa s.— E C xtensively cultivated in hina , where it is called Sain. — Dioscoreu who m Called Cara in Brazil ; Ratala (Hindu - u C n . stani) Shu y ( hi a) This is the common yam , and has a round stem with heart-shaped leaves . It is a climbing E plant, and is cultivated in the ast Indian Archipelago and C -N . B by the Santals in hutia agpur, India , etc In ombay P O TA TO 2 I

. The t fla t it is the most extensively grown species roo is , n palmated , one foot in breadth , and exter ally dark brown , and will keep good several months ; the skin , however, is

to rot. tender, and , if broken , soon begins

o r Yams are either roasted baked , and treated like an

E . Firmin er nglish potato g suggests that, if they are

o b iled , they should be buried for half an hour beneath the ho t m o f . I II wood ashes , and the oisture dried out them Africa and the West Indies the yams are often sliced a nd d the n ried in sun , in order to make them keep a lo g time . Specimens of these may be seen in Kew Gardens

Aff o o s Museum , London , under the name Of yam biscuit ,

N . egro yam biscuits , and White yam biscuits

’ ’ ol oea szu uuh uorum . escul ents (U g , var )

The above is the South Pacific name . In the West Indies

I C E K ol ka s E it s called oco , and sometimes ddoes ( gyptian

. H -kiz ha n u and Arabic) Kachu , etc ( industani) Shamak g ,

-thum a . C etc . (Tamil) ; Shama p , etc (Telegu) hempa

z h n a . -hu- a - B ki a n , etc (Malay) ; Ma y pein ( urmah) ; Saonjo

(Madagascar) Koko (West Africa) ; Ocumo (Venezuela) ; M o o wa h Tania (Liberia , West Africa) ; y g (Uganda and

U n o ro E o r Msa ru E y , ast Africa) Malombo , (German ast Africa) ; Inha nu (Highl ands o f Brazil) a nd Caymon

Co -C . E a ( chin hina) It is native from gypt to South Asi ,

u o f Ea st and in the So th Sea Islands , also the warm parts

s o f d Australia . A an article food it is largely cultivate , 2 2 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS being deprived by roasting or boiling of the characteristic acridity o f the botanical order to which it belongs . In Fiji it is called Dalo ; and the varieties cultivated B B D K a ra ka ra wa there are assaga , ega , alo ni Vanua , , Keri ,

uril a i Vil o a Sisiwa To a kul a . K g , Munin , Kuiawa , Sika , , Soki , When taken o ut of the ground it can be kept fresh and fit to eat f o r little more than a week.

Some varieties are used for puddings , some for bread or

o r simply f o r boiling baking, and are distinguished by the w diff erent tinge (white , yello , or purple) of the leaves ,

o f . stalks, and ribs the leaves

. Taro is sometimes parboiled , and then roasted In the

P o i Sandwich Islands a sort of paste , called , is made from it, and much used as food when boiled or fried . Paiai (hard or dry P o i) is taro baked and beaten on a piece o f wood with a sto ne witho ut being moistened with water ; then packed

s in small bundle and bound in ti leaves, when it will keep f o r sea - o f n months , and is the principal st re o the Sa dwich “ ” s . I lands vessels Soft poi is taro baked , then moistened

o with water , and beaten with a st ne upon a piece of wood , . allowed to ferment , and then eaten

The young leaves are used as spinach , but, like the root , they require to be well cooked .

Sweet Potato

' B a ta ta eduhs I omceu botto ms ( , or p )

o f A native tropical South America , but cultivated - in all tropical and sub tropical countries for its root . B It is called atata in Venezuela ; Mita alu (Hindustani) P O TA TO 2 3

Va l l ikil a ngu (Tamil) ; Chel a ga d a (Telegu) ; Kapa-ka lenga - . Bu B D B (Malay) Kaz wan , etc ( rmah) ; atata oce ( razil)

Fatati (P eru) ; and Camo te (Mexico) . In Malacca o ne

O . Ha ussa l a nd i , f i variety is called ob Tora In West A r ca , it is called Dankali. In India there are apparently two

o ne o r Sa ka rka nd a varieties , with purple ( red) root, called , t - another variety wi h a white root, called Chiae a l n. In B o f wh B razil there are five varieties , ich atata Roxa is o ne

B o r Gerimu of the best, and atata Amarella , , is very sweet. It can be kept in the ground from o ne year to the other.

cut It can be boiled , in slices , with milk, sugar, and grated

- d o r d a sh coco nut added , making a good essert boile , m ed

n u a and made into a puddi g with s gar, eggs , gr ted coco

o f o r nut , and some kind spice , as nutmeg cinnamon.

ho t o r Sometimes it is roasted whole in ashes , cut in slic es and fried in o il . P erhaps the best way is to peel a nd grate

ra w when , and then make into a pudding as above , this being the Brazilian way. In Siam and the East Indies it is often preser ved as a sweetmeat in clear .

Sweet Cassav a

' ’ ’ (Ma mhot uzp z )

B A im Do ee o r w In razil it is called yp , Mandioca , S eet

. a nd d Juca It is a native of tropical America , is escribed

five- as having the leaves parted , and the root longer than

. s is the bitter variety Fawcett ays that the root reddish , and Barham says that the plant bears a large berry . it D In Venezuela , South America , is called Yuca ulce

b E G . M ogo (Kisuaheli , ast Africa) and Aipi (French uiana) 24 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

o t Cassava must go straight from the garden to the p , if

s pos ible, the same morning , as the day after it is dug up it becomes hard and unfit f o r food. It can be grated and

sun exposed to the , or dried on heated plates , when it will keep for almost an unlimited time . It has a no n-poisonous juice , and tough portions in the centre but becomes quite soft by boiling. It is also eaten roasted but is not nearly so much used as the Bitter Mandioca.

a n The green tops are excellent fodder for cattle , d the stems for firewood.

26 F OOD F OR THE TR OP I CS

The pod is from two to three inches in length , and scimitar-shaped. - The best variety is the large , oval , white seeded kind , h with , at most , a brown or black mark close to the ilum , being preferable to the flattened reniform kind with blotches o f red o r bl ack veinings . - n The large flat, ivory like , you g green beans (seeds) are

f o r . shelled , and boiled about two hours , until quite soft

They are then exceedingly agreeable , and have a mealy ,

- - o l d roast chestnut like flavour. When , soak in water o f o r o fi vernight, simmer three hours , pour the water ,

o il . and add some milk, , spice , and salt In some parts o f China the beans are ground to a coarse

o powder, mixed with a little water , then pressed int masses . like cheese , and cooked as required after being finely grated

Ca ra o ta s negras are a staple article of food in Venezuela , and feijao is the national dish o f Brazil .

Green Gram

(P ha seolus mung)

A native o f India . In the Hindustani language it is

o Do chiro kko called Mung, and s metimes Green Gram ;

Kisua h E P Kicha mb E ( , ast Africa) ; osne ( , ast Africa)

B B o E N E okwa ( ong , ast Africa) ; toyo (Wanyoro , ast Africa) ; Lentejas (Venezuela) ; Munge (Arabic) ; Da u

-a n . C -C n - a a ru muong , etc ( ochin hi a) ; Siru p y (Tamil) ; Wuthul u - a nd Pa i (Telegu) nouk , etc.(Burmah) .

Mung has dark green leaves , and much smaller and shorter seeds than Urd (see next page) . There are three

n wor . - varieties with gree , yello , black seeds , viz green seeded M E A T 2 7

H o ( arri Mung) , the typical and common variety ; yell w seeded (S e na Mung) ; black-seeded (Max Mung) . These varieties are found in India .

o r t . The ripe seeds are boiled whole , spli like peas They are also parched and ground into flour , which is made

o r f o r . into balls with Spice , employed making porridge

n o r e w The bea s are sometimes eaten parched , boil d ith condiments. The beans (seeds) keep well. The crushed stalks and lea ves are much prized fo r fo dde r.

Black Gram

P ha seol us mun .md mtus ( g, var )

A native o f India . The leaves are yellowish green a nd h t the whole plant has greater hairiness , a more trailing abi , seeds fewer, larger, longer, darker brown colour than the Mung Bean . There are two varieties— the la rge bla ck

- . seeded kind , and smaller green seeded variety It is the

o f the P ha seol us most highly prized genus , and is largely

t . l Da u- h . cultivated hroughout India It is ca led xan , etc ,

C -C n . H P a tche - in ochin hi a ; Urd , etc ( industani) ; y pyre (Tamil) Minumul u (Telegu) and Cheru-po ia r (Malay) . B n It thrives in heavier soils than the Mung ea , and is se wn at the b egi nn1ng o f the rainy season . In Madras it is

o n n o r t m . cultivated dry lands , being sow in August Sep e ber The ripe beans (seeds) are the most esteemed pulse in h . It India, and fetch the ighest price is eaten like mung ,

s l ls h boiled whole ; parched ; o r as pice ba , and is the c ief constituent o f the Water Biscuits known in Bomba y a s ” pa pa d . In the Punjab bari a nd sepa are prepared 28 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

by soaking the beans for two days in slightly warm water , d then crushed to pulp by a stone and ried , and eaten mixed with o il . The straw is highly esteemed as fodder.

Moth Bean

’ (P ha seolus ucouihf ol z us)

o f A native India , and prefers dry, light , sandy soil , being sown in June o r July . Moth (Hindustani) ; Tul ka pyre

nd Kuncuma - esa l u . u . (Tamil) ; a p , etc (Teleg ) It is an in P important crop Satara , Ahmadabad , oona , Kaira D B P . Sholapur, and harwar in the ombay residency

It is ground into flour , and used with other grains in making cakes . The whole plant is valuable for fodder.

Cajan Pea or Red Gram

' (Caj a nus I uo hous)

In the West Indies the small variety is called No Eye

P ea C P ea To o va r H , and the large , ongo ; ( industani) ; ’ Th va ra . P d An ol o y, etc (Tamil) ; Kandalu (Telegu) ois g e

P Ca on i . D ois j g , or Ambre Vade (F Guiana) ; Large hall (India) Amb a riva try (Madagascar) P a i-yenkhy-ung (Burmah) ; Shaz (Malay) ; Baraz (U nyo ro East Africa) ;

Za nz ib a Mb a l a si Kisua h E n Thur ( ) ; ( , ast Africa) ; a d Kadjan (Ara b ic) . A light moist soil is required .

o ff The leaves and pods are stripped the stems , then heaped together and the grain threshed o ut. It is much

in d r o r used , and is either parched hot sand and eaten y, t o il o r wi h and salt, ground into flour and made into cakes . S o y Bean

’ ’ / ' Gl cine hzs zd u o r S o u His ud u ( y p , y g )

- - B H ta u . C D This ean is called wang ta , etc ( hina) ; a u . C -C ShO nanh , etc ( ochin hina yu (Japan) Kachang - ka d el e B B . H putik ( orneo) and hat , etc ( industani). It is o f C -C a native ochin hina , Japan , and Java .

— B . is There are two varieties White , and lack So far as known it is no t attacked by insects . P rofessor Kinch states that, as a nitrogenous food , it excel s all others . In Japan the white variety is used f o r

o r making tofu , bean cheese by grinding into flour , adding

is some liquid, and pressing . The black variety eaten boiled with rice . In Northern India it is rasped o r ground ” “ ” into satu o r simply roasted as ata ; als o eaten when split like peas. One kind contains almost 20 per cent.o f o il - u C a nd , and is called Tau y ( hina) , which is extracted extensively used as butter in China and Japan. The beans ” o f o r are used to make a kind soup in Japan called miso , boiled with fish and vegetables. They are boiled either

a nd l green or ripe , , in the latter state , shou d be soaked

. a twelve hours in water containing a little salt A s uce , - u C o called Tsing y in hina and Soya in Japan , is als made from them . Ten-hu is the name o f Bean cheese in China . The straw surpasses in nitrogenous value that o f wheat and even hay.

Ca tia ng Bean

' ( Vigua Oa uo ug)

B o o r C . H d u This ean is called L bia , howli , etc ( in

a ra unn - Bob erl u . stani) ; C m y pyre (Tamil) ; , etc (Telegu) 3 0 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Adong-gouari (Abyssinia) Kachang-perut-ayam (Malay) and Lubia (Arabic) . It is universally cultivated throughout

B n. the tropics , but is less valuable than the Urd or Mung ea The seeds are se wn at the commencement o f the rains.

o r The beans (seeds) are split like peas , ground into flour. The variety with white seeds (beans) is the best. . The leaves , stalks, and stems are used as fodder

Groundnut

’ (Amehzs hp ogozu) .

n - A native of Peru and Brazil . It is called Mu g phali ,

. H -ka d a l a i . Verusha na a etc ( industani) ; Verk , etc (Tamil) g

. . B P kaya , etc (Telegu) ; Mibe , etc ( urmah) ; Mani ( eru and Venezuela) Mendubim (Brazil) Mya eb a i (Burmah) Loh-hwa -sang (China) Kachang-tanah (Malay) P istache

N o r N a de Terre (French Guiana) ; Njugu yassa , j gu w P . B Mawe (S ahili) and , in the West Indies , indar eing universally cultivated in the tropics , it has various local

. t names The pods , though at firs formed above ground , are , as they increase in size , forced into the earth by a natural motion of their stalks , and come to maturity three to four inches under the surface. Hence the popular name o f Ground o r Earth Nut. They are usually roasted. In West Africa they are made n n into soup (after bei g roasted) , with vegetables (egg pla t , and condiments . A very good o il o r butter is t n ex racted from the nut , having chemical co stituents

to o il similar butter, and called katchung in India , hwa sang-yu in China . Where a mill for the expression o f the M E A T 3 I

b e o ut oil is not accessible , the seeds can shelled , pounded ,

o il to n and boiled in water, the , as it rises the surface , bei g skimmed o ff . This o il will keep f o r a lo ng time wi thout becoming rancid .

The leaves and branches form a nutritious fodder .

Turtle The flesh of the Green Turtle is eaten in all tropical countries . The two most choice preparations in the West

. o Indies are soup, and boucan The soup is seas ned with

m a nd . is th capsicu s , ginger , cloves , nutmeg The boucan e

o f o n shell the belly, which is left three to fo ur inches o f fl esh with all the fat , and this fat is green and o f a very . delicate flavour After being seasoned with lime juice ,

cayenne pepper, salt , and cloves beaten up , the boucan is

no t to o ho t the placed in the oven , which must be , as flesh

o f w . hi the turtle is tender, and should be cooked slo ly W le it is baking the flesh should be pierced from time to time

ma with a wooden skewer , so that the y penetrate

. into every part It is sent to the table in the shell , and the meat carved out o f it . The flesh is also salted in some countries . In Honduras and Jamaica the flesh is cut o ff

a nd . h in strips , dried in the sun It then requires t ree to four d ays soaking in water before it can be made into

b ut o f no t soup, this process drying and softening does spoil it in any way . Turtle is easily digested.

o f The eggs all marine turtles are edible but the white ,

o r b no t o . al uminous part, does become firm in c oking The eggs are deposited in the springtime o n the higher sands o n

. the beach , and slightly covered up 3 2 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

In parts of India the eggs are salted , and keep fresh from three to five years . For salting, the fresh egg is well w t shaken , causing the hite par and the yolk to blend together. It is then rolled by hand o n a board with salt, until the whole shell sho ws a marked difference in appear ance . It is then packed in fine salt . In the East Indian Archipelago the eggs of the P innio (sea turtle) and of the To oto ng (river turtle) are much esteemed . The eggs of the river tortoise of Africa have an excellent taste . On the Orinoco and Amazon Rivers in South America ,

l m. a good, c ear, sweet oil is obtained from the

Fish Until quite recently a popular belief has existed that fish

hOS hOI‘ ll S t consisted very largely of p p , and consequen ly acted as a food and stimulus for the brain . Careful

l is ana ysis has proved , however, that this theory erroneous ; phosphorus is only present in most minute quantities , what there is being included in the mineral salts , of which the percentage is only 1 2 (see Table o n p.

As o f ul o f an article food , however, the res t the analyses of diff erent species o f fi sh goes to show that it is equal in

. value to beef, and contains the same nutritive substances

o f w Some kinds fish, ho ever, contain a larger quantity — f o r 9 of fat the shad, example , having 5 per cent ., while the king fish has hardly any at all . Fish is extensively used as food in tropical countries . (See Appendix III .f or list of Tropical Fishes.)

3 4 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

. B The two chief varieties are black , and white In engal l the b ack variety is the more common , yielding a superior

. oil Moloney states that in West Africa , when the crop

sun- is ripe it is cut and stacked for seven days , then dried f o r three days . This causes the pod to burst and liberate the seeds . The removal o f the seed is eff ected by shaking

the the stalks , when half seeds will drop from the pods the

two re stalks are allowed to dry days longer , when the m . aining seeds are removed in the same way The seeds ,

t o h af er rem val , are washed in cold water several times , t en

o sun o il exp sed to the to bleach , and the finally extracted by pressure. Nine pounds o f seed yields two quarts o f oil. In Ea st Africa the seeds are dried and pounded in large

the o il t mortars , and , when begins to appear, a lit le hot t wa er is poured in , and the mass forcibly squeezed between huge pestles. All that floats is then ladled o ut into

. o il pots and gourds The , thus obtained , will keep for many years without becoming rancid , either in taste o r smell .

The seeds are often parched , ground into meal , and made into ca kes. This flour is sometimes mixed with jaggery f o r making sweet cakes . In Demarara they are

. parched , ground , and made into a rich soup

P a lm Butter

' (Rlcezs guiueeusis)

distributed generally over tropical coast to four hundred miles inland . B U TTE R 3 5

Z P a o n said to grow at anzibar, emb , and the shores o f Lake . Mchikichi n u Tanganyika It is called in the Swahili la g age ,

Mtschikitschi Kisua h E Mchiki hi a ( , ast Africa) , and c (L ke

. ha s l - o t s e Tanganyika , Africa) It a we l devel ped frui pik ,

o ne t ee and sometimes five hundred fruits are found upon r , each frui t being about the size o f a large olive .

The o il from the pulp is very largely used as food . The pulp contains 72 per cent. o f o il (palm butter) whic h is used in the same way as Europeans use butter. The palm o il used for human food is prepared as follows. The nut bunches are kept in a warm place f o r thre e o r four days and the nuts then taken o ut. Three to four pound s

. o t are made at a time They are boiled in ir n pots , and hen put into wooden mortars and pounded with wooden pestles . ul m m t f The p py ass is then ixed with epid water, the cha f removed , and afterwards the stones , the Oil remaining mixed with the water which is passed through a sieve . It is then

o t o n a nd put into a p placed the fire , heated to boiling point , allowed to continue in that state while the o il floats up as a bright red substance and is skimmed o ff . The Oil is no w

o t o ut put into a p , and heated , to drive any water it may contain . The main nerves o f the exterior of the pinn ae o f the leaves and the exterior of the leafstalks are used f o r making baskets and brooms . At St.Paul de Loango the fibre at the

ls o f s f o r base of the leaves , and a o that the spathe , is u ed u . stuffing c shions , etc

t o f c o n The soft centre at the upper par the stem ,

s n o f a s si ti g undeveloped leafstalks , is much relished a vegetable . 3 6 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Shea Butter

' (B utgrosp ermum P urhu)

Ba mb ouk B It is called in West Africa, Galam , or utter

Tree ; o r Kadanya ; Toso (Fulfulde) " Karehi (Fulbe) ; Kadena (Haussa) ; and Ce (Senegal) ; Kunuri (Bari tribe o f Equatorial Africa) ; Lulu (Arabic) ; and Mipa mpa (Lake Regions of East Africa) . Found chiefly on the mountains o f tropical West Africa and Nil el a nd ; but especially abun

N Nil el a nd Nia m N m dant in the iger country , , ia country ,

B o . Madi , rneo , and Gaboon When the land is cleared this tree is always left standing. t w n The bu ter, hich is solid , is obtained from the ker el by drying the stone in the sun after the pul p is removed . The kernel is bruised in the usual way in the mortar, boiled , and as the butter comes to the surface it is skimmed off.

n o P ha s This butter , Mu g ark states , is whiter, firmer , a ’ o richer flavour than cows butter, and keeps a wh le year without salt. Henderson says that o f all the fats with which he is acquainted this seems to remain the longest unaltered.

Juv ia Butter

' (B erthol l etza excel su)

A native o f Brazil on the Orinoco and Amaz on Rivers especially abundant at To pa iunqua ra . It is called Ca sta n

-d o -P heiro ara , and in Guiana is known as Tuka . The nuts are at first enclosed in an outer woody shell as B U TTE R 3 7 large as a moderate -sized melon each shell contains about

w a re twenty nuts averaging inches in length , and hich

a t . thick , and triangular in the middle , but sharp each end The o il o r butter is secured in the usual manner by sub j ecting the kernel to pressure . The kernel contains 0 5

.o f o il f o r per cent , which is greatly esteemed culinary pur poses. Each pound o i kernels yields 9 ounces o f o il .

Patawa Oil

’ (U tuocurpus B ul uuu)

It is called Pa ta vo ua in French Guiana and Seje (Vene z uel a . o f ) It is a native tropical America , especially abun

Ca ssi ua re O Cnuucunuma t dant in q alto , rinoco , and , opposi e

C Rio N Xie B . San arlos from egro to the in razil , etc Spruce

o f says he was passionately fond the fruit , which is in season nearly all the year round The leaves can be used a s a thatch. The pulp and the kernel yield equally good oils f o r food.

is o f o r c o o kin This oil excellent , being colourless, sweet , go d g and all purposes o f food in the same way a s butter. The o il is obtained from the fruit in the usual way .

Co co f nut

(Cocos uumfi e m)

De Candol le says that its habitat is most pro bably the it East Indian Archipelago , but is commonly cultivated in all tropical countries . There are three varieties cultivated 3 8 F OOD F OR THE TR OP I CS

in India and Ceylon " the King, which is very good ; the

C f o r Dwarf, much sought after in eylon gardens ; the n . Brahmin , with large uts , principally esteemed for its milk

o il a s t The is used food , and mus be eaten soon after its extraction as it quickly deco mposes. It is obtained in the

s o r . usual way by expre sion , boiling and skimming The kernel is often preserved in sugar and made into various

o sweetmeats. When young the kernel is a delici us food ,

being easily separated from the shell with a spoon , and

to . when ripe is grated and added puddings , etc The young coco -nut has a large cavity in the centre of “ ” the kernel containing the liquid commonly called milk ,

a nd which is considered very refreshing nourishing , and is used as a substitute f o r water. It is Often substituted for ’ co ws milk in the preparation of puddings .

o f The white outer part the kernel is , when dried, known “ ” a s . copra In India , copra is eaten with parched rice ; o r rasped and put into curries ; o r made into sweetmeats . u The grated kernel prod ces a sweet milk , used instead ’ o f cows milk in cookery . The other products o f the palm are sugar and

, which are Obtained in the following manner . When the spathe is about 2 feet long and 3 inches thick it is tightly bound with strips o f yo ung leaves to prevent

o ff expansion , and the point cut transversely to the extent o f o ne inch . The cut end o f the spathe is gently hammered

in order to crush the flowers thereby exposed , and to deter mine the sap to the wounded part. The stump is then bound up with a broad strip of fibre . This process is

a d repe te morning and evening for several days , a thin layer being shaved o ff o n each occasion and the spathe trained to B U TTE R 3 9 bend downward . This operation is continued from five to fiftee n days . The dropping o f juice will showtha t it is " ready to yield to d dyfi The end o f the spathe is then fixed

t o r into an ear hen vessel , to catch the oozing liqu . A single spathe will continue to yield toddy f o r abo ut a

t w t e d a mon h , during hich time the tree is climbed wic a y and the juice collected . The process o f binding a nd cutting the spathe an inch lower down is repeated each time the juice is collected . Three to four quarts is the average

nt t - the c o n qua i y obtained in twenty four hours , and tree tinnes to yield from six months to a year Sometimes this w m -w fluid is converted into hat is called nira , by li e ashing

o to n t t the collecting vessels in rder preve t fermen a ion , and then sold as a sweet and refreshing drink. When the juice is intended to be made into jaggery u a (s gar) , the earthenware vessels in which it is c ught

t o n are powdered with lime in order to prevent fermenta i , and the time o f collecting is early in the morning . J a gge ry

us w a nd is prepared in the ual manner , by boiling do n evaporation . Eight gallons o f juice boiled over a slow fi re

o f w yield two gallons jaggery , which , hen dried , is tied l up in small quantities in dried p antain leaves , and kept f o r sale . This sugar has a delicious nutty flavour and

a . o u fragrance as unique as maple sug r Melt this sugar, p r - tm is on grated ripe coco nut , and a delicious swee eat produced . A recent repo rt issued by the Revenue a nd Agricultural Depa rtment o f India states that in Mad ras there were P o f C -nut P a l acres of P almyra alm , acres oco m , acres o f Date Sugar Palm ; and the writer Of that

U nfe rmente d j uic e . 40 F OOD F OR THE TR OP JCS

“ 1 884 -5 1 885— 6 u report adds , In and the total q antity of j a ggery produced from these palms is apparently more ” than that from the sugar cane . - te dd n u Self fermented y is exte sively sed by bakers in India , f . in place o yeast “ Royle states that vinegar may be produced fro m the the juice by allowing it to undergo acetous fermentation , and f or this purp ose a supply o f juice is procured in the

morning and evening , particular care being taken that the vessels employed have been well cleaned and dried.

Household Word s D ickens , in , says that when the Singhalese (Ceylon) villager fells one o f these trees after

b ut a nd it has ceased bearing , with its trunk he builds his

l . bul ock stall , which he thatches with its leaves Slips of the

o f bark are used for bolts and bars , and the plot chillies

. (peppers) , and grain is fenced with its leafstalks The infant sleeps in a net of coir string from the husks . The meal o f rice and grated coco-nut boiled o ver a fire o f

- o ut o f o f coco nut shells and husks , is eaten a dish formed the plaited green leaves with a Spoon cut out of the nut shell . His torch is composed of a bundle o f the dried

flo wer- leaves and stalks , fishing nets of the fibres , and the canoe is the trunk of the tree. He drinks the fresh milk o f l te d d the nut , eats the soft kerne , drinks y (unfermented

his juice) , flavours his curry with its vinegar, sweetens ff co ee with its jaggery (sugar) , and softens it with the milk .

w o The o d forms the doors , windows , shelves , chairs , and

- . n n the water gutter under the eaves Spoo s , basi s , mugs , - salt cellars , and jars are made from the Shell .

4 2 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Ac uero

‘ (Aszrocurgum a cul eutum)

t A uiro o r Acu urui B I is called q y , in ritish Guiana ; Av o urra (French Guiana) ; and is a native o f tropical America. The fruit is used like butter. The pulp a nd kernel have oil .

Comon

Wh ocur s a co bo ( pu (J )

It is called Comon in French Guiana . The fruit is often c o oked in water with salt. An oil is obtained from it for seasoning food . A drink is also made from it.

Souari Nut

(Ourgoour species) A native of tropical America and sometimes called Butter nut . One author states that it is o ne of the most delicately flavoured of all nuts . In Trinidad the kernel is pounded

the o il m to extract , which is sold in the arket under the “ ” name of ghee .

Sapucaia Nut

’ (Lecythz s z a bucoj o)

A native o f tropical America and West sometimes called Canari Macaque . This nut B U TTE R 4 3

nourishing, and much used as food , especially in the mountainous parts.

Av ocado Pear

(P ersea gra tissima )

l P n It is also ca led Aguacate in Venezuela , a ama and

Toboga ; Palta in Peru ; Avocat in the Caribbee I sl a nd s

a nd in B . o so Abacateiro razil The tree gr ws wild , and is al l t cultivated in tropica America , being found in forest trac s near the coast growing in humid soil . The best variety in Mexico is called Ahuaca Dulce La rge . The fruit must not be pulled before maturity . I t is eaten with pepper and salt. Some people mix it with lime juice and sugar ; others boil and eat with salt beef o r sa l t

o n w t fish , but it is usually eaten bread ( ith pepper and sal ) , as it contains 8 per cent.o f o il (o r butter) .

Pinot

(Euterp e o l emceo )

o f P o re A native tropical America , called in t in F nch Guiana Pal mito (Brazil) . The frui t yields a very refreshing “ ” l to m P w drink called assai , simi ar that derived fro ata a

‘ ' s B a to uu . Euteo oe ed ul i s is a ( GZuoca rpu ) g , which c lled ” a nd . Jissara , also used to prepare assai Yukissé is the general name given to a l l kinds o f vege table juices. Yukissé is generally eaten wi th farinha from Manioc with o r without sugar. The Portuguese ( ) “ Brazilians called these drinks vinho . 4 4 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

In the East Indian Archipelago , butter is obtained from

um commune o f B Ka narie (Ca na ri a native orneo , Java , D n Sumatra , and abundant in amma Isla d , Arru Islands , Malacca Archipelago . The fruit yields the o il (butter) . C ” J . Low mentions a anarium in Malacca , called kras , which is probably the same . In Borneo a species o f

D De l okuemu sebi em d ipterocarpus ( p f ) , calle , locally, Miniak

nca b a n r Ta nka wa n Me g, o Miniak , yields a very large

o f quantity oil from the nut, which is used for cooking ,

K a tio w o n n n The tree , chiefly found the Sado g , Li gah ,

K a l l ekka R B o and the ivers , orneo , yields an oil fr m the “ ” . o il m ka tio w seed The is called iniak , being cheap,

o il abundant, with a perfume like almond , and much valued for cooking. There is a tree in B o rneo called “ P a n uin E n ka a a n g dule , yieldi g an oil called miniak p y g, w f o r . hich is esteemed cooking This tree is cultivated , and the o il is obtained fro m the ripe seeds which can be obtained nearly all the year round .

N - o f In orth India mustard seed oil , and in many parts

o il . the tropical world groundnut , is much used

-a z i né o il n Voua g is an of an agreeable flavour, co stantly eaten with rice in Mauritius. C H AP TE R VI

VE GE TAB L E S

Egg Plant

(S ol a num mel ongena )

THI S is the Brinjal (Hindustani) ; Kha-yan (Burma h)

C Kuthireka i . l Kia ( hina) ; Trong (Malay) ; , etc (Tami )

Chiri~ va n a . B a B g , etc (Telegu) ; engan (West Afric ) ; er

B Va l a n ha nna E ingela ( razil) ; g , or Garden gg (Jamaica) ; C t Tongu (Angola , West Africa) ; Macumba ( ongo , Wes B H t Africa) erengena (Venezuela) and Gauta ( aussa , Wes Africa) . t t There are two principal varieties , one wi h frui the size o f a large orange , and shaped like an egg ; and the other more the form o f a cucumber. B o th are o f a fine d eep purple colour. In Bengal the seeds are se wn at the

o f o ut 1 t beginning the rains , and planted 4 feet apar .

no t to o The soil Should be a sandy loam , and rich , otherwise too much foliage is produced. This vegetable is much eaten throughout the tropics. I t

ho t e wt is roasted in ashes , the skin removed , and mash d i h

- o r o il o r n e salt, peppers , lime juice ; cut i to slices and fri d

o il o r o il r in ; pickled when young and tender in , peppe , and salt. It is sometimes par-boiled to take o ff the outer

o il. skin , which is rather bitter, and then fried in 4 6 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Ochro

(Hibiscus esoul entus)

o f u A native Upper and Lower G inea , and Mozambique

t t . O dis ric , Africa It is called chro (West Indies) Vendi ,

r Bhend i . - . o , etc (Tamil) ; Venda kaya , etc (Telegu) Venta k-kaya (Malay) Go mb a ud (French Guiana) Bhindi

t B a -l u-wa - -si . B (Hindus ani) ; , or Youn padi , etc ( urmah) Bandaki (in some parts o f Africa) Bamia (Soudan and

Guin o mb o B B o r ni Egypt) g ( razil) ete , Vauvau Viti , in

uinb o m Ca l a l o u Fiji Q b o (Venezuela) and Quiabo , etc. The seeds are sown at the beginning o f the rainy season.

o The boiled unripe pods are a fav urite vegetable , when u very young , for making pickles ; when more mat re , for curries . They are also used in soups ; or cut into small pieces and fried .

The pods are sometimes dried for storage , as follows

They are cut in Slices the short way, put on a Sheet of paper

sun t in the to dry, turned now and then , and in abou three days are dry enough to keep . They Should be put . in the sun occasionally, if long kept

The lobed leaves are tender eating as a potherb , especially if not quite developed. Porcher states that the pod contains an enormous amount of albumen.

Chocho

(Sechium edul e)

o f C A native entral America , and called Chuchu B - razil ; Chayota in Venezuela ; and Chou choute VE GE TA B LE S 4 7

Reunion t , French Wes Indies . The large fruit is green o r - w cream coloured , according to the variety , and covered ith soft prickles . It is much cult ivated in South America and the West Indies . The fruit is a most wholesome vege table cooked like Squash o r Pumpkin ; it can also be made into tarts wi th limes . It is sometimes added to soup ; o r soup made o f

o r o il it ; is eaten boiled , and mashed with and pepper , the Skin being first removed. Lunan recommends it dressed with lime-juice and spices .

Bottle Gourd

(Lagena ria vulga ris)

C o r P It is also called lub Gourd , White umpkin ;

Cha rra h r K a dd u . H us Hu- (A abic) ; , etc ( ind tani) ; l n

C S o ria i- . - e tc ( hina) kai , etc (Tamil) Kunda nuga , . - - - (Telegu) ; Bella schora (Malay) ; Eu sin swai (Burmah) and Calebasse -terre (French Guiana) . It is a climbing plant, wild in India , the Moluccas , Abyssinia , and exten siv el y cultivated in all hot countries .

se wn 6 In India it is in patches feet apart , in rather

o f . sandy soil , during the months April and June In appearance it is like two oval gourds united end to end . It has white flowers .

B o o r oiled when young , it is used like vegetable marr w sliced for curry o r mixed with rice . If hung up in a free f o r . current o air , it keeps well three four months The young shoots and leaves are also eaten . TH E TR P I CS 4 8 F OOD F OR O

Wi o rd h te G u

(B eninca sa cerif era )

A native of Japan and Java , and cultivated throughout

. Asia the Islands Africa , etc It is also called White , , - o r C Ka dd u Gourd Melo n , hinese Wax Gourd , and Gol - - P eh- . C pushinik (Hindu stani) ; kwa , etc ( hina) Kaliyana l na B - umud u . Kum a a n , kay (Tamil) urda g , etc (Telegu) p - - B . etc . (Malay) ; and Kyauk pa yon ( urmah) It is a very - s large egg shaped climbing gourd , covered with pale greeni h u . white bloom , and white p lp inside The young fruit is used in curries as a vegetable ; o r as a sweetmeat . It is said to have cooling properties.

Purslane

(P ortul a ca o l era cea ) .

. P a r ukire etc . A native of India It is called p , (Tamil) — ukura . K orieehira P a pp , etc (Telegu) ; (Malay) ; Mya byit

K o urf a ka ra -o r . Ri el (Burmah) ; , etc (Arabic) ; j (Soudan , Africa) and Ma-ch-i-hien (China) . There are three d - varieties in cultivation , Green , Gol en , and Large leaved Golden P urslane .

o f . The leaves contain oxalate potash , mucilage , etc , and h are refrigerant , slig tly astringent , diuretic , antiscorbutic, preventing also liver diseases . They are largely eaten as

th o r a po erb in the form of Spinach , in curries . The young shoots also make an excellent .

H TR P I CS 50 F OOD F OR T E O

basella-kira (Malay) . The flowers o f this species are rose coloured. Much cultivated throughout India as a potherb .

Luffa

(Luf a a cuta ugul a )

o f A native tropical India and Malaya , and called Torai , etc . (Hindustani) Pikunka i (Tamil) Burkai (Telegu)

o r - -b wo t- - Bur Djinji , Kelula manis (Malay) ; Tha kha wai ( mah) and P a penga il l e (Reunio n) . The fruit is produced during the rainy season . Sow from March to June in lines

5 feet apart supports Should be given to the young plants , 4 . when inches high , for them to climb upon If the fruit is longer than 4 inches it is useless for the

o ne table , but, if young, is highly esteemed , and considered f . d o the best indigenous vegetables It is peeled, boile , and

o il dressed with , pepper, and salt ; also used in curries . B alfour states that the leaves are a favourite potherb , and considered very wholesome.

(Lufi a a ggp tica )

- . H A native of India, and called Ghia tarui , etc ( indu

Guttib ira . -b wo t B stani) , etc (Telegu) Tha ( urmah) Luff (Arabic) Ko nyiko n (West Africa) and Estropajo (Vene z uel a . C is ) ultivated like the last, but the fruit smaller , u r . and sed simila ly in curries , etc It is much cultivated n during the rai s , and is considered a delicio us vegetable . Luffa Petola is called Courge To rchonin in French Guiana. Snake Gourd

(Trichosa nthes a nguina )

P o i o r r bably w ld in India , Indian Archipelago , but grown throughout India as a rainy -season c rOp. I t is

se wn . in April and May, and cultivated like a cucumber

P urwul . H n - t e tc . It is called , etc ( industa i) ; Linga po la , (Telegu) ; P a i-len-mwae (Burmah) ; Patole (Reunio n)

P - . . and etala ular, etc (Malay) . This Gourd is used as a boiled vegetable , also in curry

(Trichosa nthes d ioica )

f f N P a A native o the plains o orth India , called rvar (Hindustani) ; Ko mbu-pud a l a i (Tamil) K o mmu-po tla (Telegu) ; and P a to l a m (Malay) . Extensively cultiva ted during the rainy season in the same way as other gourds. t c o n The unripe frui is much used as a vegetable , being

sid ered very wholesome ; it can be co oked in various wa ys — t wt o il either boiled , af er cutting in half , and served i h ,

o r o r cut salt , and pepper as a vegetable ; fried ; else in

t f o r a nd slices and s ewed in sauce. It is also used curry , can be preserved in syrup with cinnamon and va nilla . If gathered when young, and less than four inches in length ,

i o e c it can be cut nto thin strips , and b iled lik Fren h (spring) beans .

Sag

‘ (Ama ra mus ga ugeticus)

o f - H A native India, and called Lal sag ( industani) and B w e aya m (Stra its Settlements) . It is pulled up hen r ady , 52 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

and sold entire . The leaves and tender stalks are used in curry.

(Ama ra ntus ol era ceus)

H To ta kura . ca lled Sag ( industani) ; , etc , in Telegu ; and Tand-kirai in Tamil language .

(Ama ra ntus Trista s)

Sirru- . Sirru- called kirai , etc (Tamil) , and kura (Telegu) ,

. extensively cultivated , and held in much esteem It may be cut d own several times without destroying the

o ut . plants , for they soon shoot vigorously again It is

Ama ra ntus o era ceus o ne preferred to l , which yields only cro p.

B sa is In Mauritius , ourbon, and the Seychelles , g B e called r de de Malabar , and the common variety in Brazil is called Caruru.

Jew’s Mallow

' (Corchorus o litorius)

o f Indigenous in many parts India , and generally distributed by cul tivation in all tropical countries . It is

a na scha . H P era tti- called Singin j , etc ( industani) ; kirai , . P a rinta . P - etc (Tamil) , etc (Telegu) het wun (Burmah) - Oimo a C ; R m ts ua Mel o k ( hina) a i j (Malay) ieh, o r Molu

a . Ca r khi , etc (Africa) and r uru de Bahia (S .America) . It n is commonly cultivated in tropical I dia , Africa, etc.

The leaves are used a s a potherb . VE GE TA B LE S 53

S im n F n , or Cou try rench Bea

(Dol ichos l a bl a b)

B t . This ean is wild and cultivated throughou India Sim ,

. H t Mutcheh . etc , is the indus ani name , etc (Tamil)

Al sa nd a . P a i B P - C , etc (Telegu) ( urmah) ien tau ( hina) ; ’ é ve d E te o r . and J gyp , Feijao da India (French Guiana)

n a re It is extensively cultivated for its gree pods , which used like French beans . The stems are a valuable fodder.

Papaw

(Oa rica p ap a ya ) w The fruit o f this tree is used as a vegetable , hen green and unripe . (S ee Chapter VIII .) CHAPTER VI I

S U GAR

Palmy ra P a lm

(B ora ssus fla bel liformis)

I w TH S and the follo ing palms , along with Maguey and - Sugar cane, are the sources from which the inhabitants of . it tropical countries obtain their sugar As will be seen ,

o o is btained without much trouble , often fr m poor soil , and the crop does not require yearl y renewal like the Sugar-cane . The above palm is called Tal (Bengali and Hindustani) Lontar (Malay) ; Re ntal (Java) ; Tati (Telegu) ; Panai

maram " (Tamil) ; Pana (Malay) ; and Htan (Burmah) . This Fan Palm is pl entiful o n the east and west coasts

o f o n . Madagascar , especially the warm plains It is culti v a ted B C throughout tropical India, urmah , eylon , and East Indian Archipelago . It is the Toddy Palm of South o B C India, K nkan , urmah , and eylon . “ o r The juice , toddy, is called ras , and before sunrise is sweet and agreeable , and while fresh is consumed as a

e bev rage , but after sunrise it ferments rapidly . The fresh

u o j , o ice boiled d wn to remove m isture , yields jaggery , o f . u which consists almost entirely sugar The vessels , sed f o r to h collecting toddy be made into jaggery (sugar) , ave S U GA R 55

f a small piece o lime o r charcoal put into them to prevent

t . Dist n a t fermenta ion In Konkan , Thana rict , I di , his Fan

P m the - s al is chief sugar bearing tree , grow wild a l l o ver the

district, and is found by tens o f thousands in the co ast sub

o . divisi ns The palms are male (Talai) and female (Tad) , and the juice o f both is equall y good.

v to T d d f o In twel e years it is ready tap, yielding e y r about fifty years . In the male tree the te d d is d rawn “ y l end is fin erl ike o w 1 from the , which are g gr ths , 2 to

1 5 in to inches length, in clusters at the p o f the tree . Each finger is beaten with a piece Of stick along its who le

l n o f s ength , and all the fi gers the clu ter are then tied to gether. In three to four days the po ints o f the fingers ” a re ur t cut by the aut, a sharply c ved knife wi h a keen ,

f r flat, broad blade , and are continued to be cut daily o two

. weeks , as soon as the juice begins to flow Under the tips o f the fingers earthen pots are placed

the cre ws wa into which the juice drops , and , to keep a y , “ ” o f l end is so a s to a sheath straw is bound round the , close the mouth o f the pot . The female tree gives o ut

1 2 1 5 t e the Spikes to inches long , with frui seat d all round

o f . to flo w side , as in a head maize When the juice begins , the fingers o f the male and spikes o f the females must have their points cut morning and evening . The juice o f the Palmyra Palm is richer in saccha rine

t t 3 a rts matter than most other palms , and Forbes says ha qu

1 f . Wthe te d d e o f juice makes lb . o jaggery hen y, befor

o it m m fermentation , is b iled beco es a thick syrup , and a s all quantity o f scraped coco-nut kernel is thro wn in to aso e r tain if it is o f proper co nsistency ; it is then po ured into

P m a nd n . The baskets Of al yra leaf , where it cools harde s 56 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

o P sugar is kept in th se plaited almyra baskets , and is ” called jaggery sugar. C o Te ddy serves extensively as yeast, and throughout eyl n no other is employed by the bakers . A large amount o f te d dy is co nverted into vinegar and used f o r pickling

o f C -nut gherkins , limes, and the undeveloped leaves the oco

and Palmyra Palms ; but by far the greatest quantity is boiled down f or jaggery (sugar) . About o ne thousand tons are said to be manufactured in Ceylon annually. Doctor Brandis states that nearly all the sugar made in B urmah , and a large proportion made in South India and m. - Konkan , is procured from this pal Sugar candy , made C C from it , is imported into alcutta from eylon , Madras , and East Indian Archipelago . Ja ggery is also the Burmese name f o r sugar made from this palm .

C - - - aps , rain hats, cups , rice jugs , plates , water pails , water

a - - b skets , cooling baskets , baskets for storing grain , oil press

- m unkha s baskets , clothes baskets , sieves , ats , leaf p , screens , . f O fences , thatch , etc , are made from di ferent parts f this palm.

Black Run P a lm

B ora ssus a bel l i ormis .a ethio ic s ( fl f , var p u )

A native o f tropical Africa. I t is called Deleb Palm N ( orth tropical Africa) ; Do l a pe (Arabic) ; Mvumo Kisua h E ( , B ast Africa) ; Kawe ( agirmi , West Africa)

- Uray (Musgu , West Africa) ; Sibbo Colono (Gambia) ; Mo umb o U o o E ( g g , ast Africa) .

58 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

1 0 1 2 . bare space , measuring to inches each way The

no t surface thus laid bare is the woody fibre of the tree , but

o f . o the bark, formed many thin layers Leaving it exp sed

r f ew cut is f o a days , a then made into this exposed surface 3 in the shape o f a very broad V, inches across and a quarter o r half an inch deep. Then the surface inside the angle o f the V is cut down so that a triangular surface is made on the tree . From this the juice exudes and runs down to the f o f angle o the V, where a bamboo , the size a lead pencil , is inserted to catch the te dd y and carry it out as on a Spout . The tapping is arranged throughout the season by periods of six days each. On the fi rst evening a cut is made as described and the te ddy runs during the night and is c o l l ected in the morning in the pot hanging beneath the . bamboo spout The second evening a new cut is made , not so deep as the last, but merely a paring , and the te ddy is allowed to run all night. The third night no new m cutting is ade , but the exuding surface is made quite clean . After these three nights it is allowed to remain three nights at rest, then the same process is begun again . The cuts in o ne season are made about the same

o f place, but in alternate seas ns alternate sides o the trees ’ us are tapped , and th each season s cuttings are above the ’ previo us season s cuttings and o n the opposite side. The no tches are generally o n the east and west sides . The average pro duce from one good tree is about 1 1 l bs.

n o (excludi g quiescent nights) , and it will go n yielding f o r forty years . Tapping commences at the beginning of N D ovember , and during ecember and January the juice flo ws best. “ Every grower at once boils his te d dy down to gur S U GAR 59

o n t d d (sugar) by placing it in large pots a perfora e ome , with a strong wood fire underneath . The toddy when

boiled becomes a dark brown , half viscid , half solid ma ss o f

o o t crude sugar, and , when still warm , is p ured fr m he pans t it into earthenware po s , in which is stored , and will keep a

very long time . Seven to ten pounds o f todd y pro duces

two pounds o f crude sugar (gur) . Fifty tho usand to ns o f sugar is annually produced from this and o ther pa lms in

B . te dd t o is so engal Sometimes the y, before fermen ati n , ld for drinking .

f o r t a s The leaves are used making mats , baske s , b g ,

. t brooms , and fans The leafstalks are beaten and wisted into ropes .

Mari Palm

(Ca ryota urens)

Called in Bombay the Hill Palm. I II Malacca and

B N - . u C a orneo , ibong ; Mhar mardi , etc (Teleg ) ; ond

. Shund a - Minb panna , etc (Tamil) ; pana (Malay) ; and o (Burmese) .

This tree is highly valuable , yielding during the ho t season immense quantities o f te ddy— sometimes 80 pints

- o flo wf o r t in twenty f ur hours , and continuing to a mon h . The juice is a pleasant d rink before it ferments . The trees

to -fi ve O a nd the are tapped when fifteen twenty years ld ,

o n f r m the is st tapping goes o eight onths in year, but opped

the . B during rainy season esides bruising and binding , “ ” te to m the the spathe , which is called koti , is hea d ake

f . e b ut a re toddy low The trees are not allowed to r st , 6 0 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS tapped until exhausted ; and in good ground will last ten years and in poor ground four to five years . The pith o f the trunk o f the old tree is said to be equal to the best sago . It is made into bread or boiled into thick o f gruel , forming in some places a great part the diet of the people . It is believed to be highly nutritious. Roxburgh considers it as palatable as the ordinary sago .

Gamble says that the leaves yield kittul (salopa) fibre ,

e which is made into r pes , brushes , baskets ; and the fibre from the sheathing leafstalk is used for making ro pes and fishing-lines . The sugar is prepared from this palm in the same way as that of the Palmyra Palm.

Gumuti Palm

(Arenga sa ccha rif era )

o f C -C Ph A native India, ochin hina , ilippines , South Japan , B O s . P n urmah , ris a It is called Anau ( e ang and Sumatra) Gula-malaka (Malay) Aren (Java) Kabong (Malacca) Tso ngl i (Philippine Islands) Ca y-duac (Cochin-China) and Taung-o ng o r Langkap (Burmah) . Generally cultivated

. f o r in India , Malacca , etc , sugar, which is obtained in the f . One o f the following manner spadices is , on the first

n o f f o r appeara ce fruit , beaten three days with a small stick , in order to determine juice to the wounded part. The

s t te dd padix is then cut a lit le way from its base , and the y pours out into an earthenware pot o r bamboo. In order to make sugar (jaggery) the te ddy is boiled to a syrup and put

“ ” As escr b e b Simmo n s in. Tro c a l A r cul ture .24 8. d i d y d pi g i , p S U GA R 6 1 o ut o f it to cool in small vessels , the form which takes , and is in this Shape sold in the market . The female tree yields

te d d . E fruit , and the male tree only y ach spadix (mayam)

te dd ma a ms yields y at least three months , and fresh y appear as the old ones are exhausted . Dr.J.E.d c Vry says that

ted d the e s when the y is to be made into sugar , vess l

to in which it is collected are smoked , in order prevent fermentation. The juice is immediately poured into shallow basins , heated by fire , and thickened by evaporation , till a drop falling o n a cold surface solidifies . Thus concentra ted

a nd it is put up in the form of large prismatic lozenges , sold in the market.

Nipa Palm

(N ip a f rutica ns)

o f A low stemless palm , growing in the soft marshes the O E islands of the Indian cean , ast Indian Archipelago , and P . D B hilippines , etc It is called ane ( urmah) Atap - - - - (Malay) ; Ca y dua nuoc (Cochin China) ; Gim pol (Singha lese) and Sasa (Philippine Islands) . ui te d d o The Malays , extract a saccharine j ce ( y) fr m ” o the spathe , called nira , and , when evap rated by boiling . down , a sugar called manisan (jaggery) ° ’ d d is In the island o f Savu (lat. 10 3 5 south) the te y “ ” “ ” “ ” o r the . called dua , duac , tuae , and sugar gulia ’ the In Cook s Voyages (Hawksworth) , it is stated that

- to o ur a tes sugar was reddish brown , and more agreeable pal than any unrefined cane sugar we had ever tasted . The ” unfermented toddy wa s called tuae manise. 6 2 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

The leaves are used as thatch , and the leafstalks for the frame and floor o f huts.

Maguey

A a ve sa l ma nia r a tro irens ( g , o u )

Twenty-two Species of Maguey are enumerated by Bl a squez ” a s a ua miel o f six yielding q , and this number produce the finest quality. In Mexico the great district for this

t o f six plan is the plains Apam , where there are hundred square leagues covered with it.

As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, a small concave opening is scooped o ut in the core o f the plant by means of a keen-edged knife ; this aperture is gently m scraped round , care being taken that no incision be ade

s into the leaves around it, as this would give a bad ta te to the juice. This opening produces a sediment called “ a ua miel raspa , through which the juice ( q ) exudes from the grooves of the plant. The juice is extracted by means o f - o a bottle gourd (the air in which is exhausted by sucti n) ,

is o f which thrust into the core the plant , the aperture at one end being ste pped with the finger ; as soon as this is full the contents are emptied into a kind o f sheepskin bag. The average quantity yielded by a plant is ro ughly estimated at 1 00 arrobas . The Mexicans know the exact

o r time at which the stem central shoot , destined to produce the flower, is about to appear, and they anticipate it by making an incision and extracting the whole heart o r

o f central portion the stem , leaving nothing but the thick o utside rind , thus forming a natural basin about 2 feet deep S U GAR 6 3

1 . N and g feet in diameter Into this the juice , which ature

o f intended for the nourishment the gigantic central shoot , continually oozes in such quantities that it is sometimes found necessary to remove it two to three times a d a y. In

n o n o ne a re order to facilitate this operatio , the leaves side cut o ff so as to admit a free approach. The a qua miel before it ferments is extremely sweet and can be evaporated to correspond with the jaggery o f India. R - h h opes , nets , table mats , t atc , thread , cords , pins , and needles are made from the leaves .

Bamboo Palm

(Rap hia uinif era )

o Ol d C This palm is called Uk t in alabar, West Africa , E where it is cultivated ; and at Usambara , ast Africa , is “ ” N called Mwale . It is common in Yoruba , upe, Upper

n P o . and Central and Lower Guinea , Africa , and Fer ando

La mi o r La b The toddy (juice) is called , by the Arabs , g g y, and Bourdon in some parts of West Africa .

ted d , The y, which is produced in large quantities is flo wer obtained by cutting out the terminal inflo rescence (

ing part) as soo n as it appears . Another authority says , in o f the regard to the toddy of West Africa , that the trunk

o f tree is tapped under every branch fruit, and each opening yields nearly a gallon in a day. The dried pinnae o f the leaves are used f o r making re pes

f o r t the long midrib o f the leaflets roofing, which las s three years the soft inside f o r mats leafstalks as poles to carry f palanquins ; brooms from the midribs o the leaves , and 6 4 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS baskets of the leaves themselves . Cloth is manufactured

o r o f o n from the epidermis , outer surface , the leaflets ; and

o the Sherb o r , West Africa , hammocks , baskets , and mats are made o f it.

Wild D ate Palm

(P ha nia spinosa )

This is not the palm from which the dates of commerce N o f are obtained in orth Africa , but is a native tropical Africa from Senegal to Kaff raria . It is called Mkind o K E E ( isua h, ast Africa) ; Msala (Usambara , ast Africa) ; and Brab (Africa) . Moloney states that toddy is procured from this species .

The very young leaflets , before the leaves expand , are used for the plaiting of hats or caps at Accra , West Africa. In Zanzibar mats are made from the leaves .

East African Doum P a lm

m H hcene coria cea o f E This pal is probably yp , ast Africa

Mk tsche K and Madagascar, and called o in the isua h dialect. The juice of it is stronger than that of the co co -palm.

C 56 No . 1 13 No . 2 In ase , , Museum , Kew Gardens ,

o London , there is a drawing illustrating the m de o f K o n o ne Z R E collecting toddy at g , ambesi iver, ast Africa ; also a cover made of the leaves for protecting the wounded surface during the collection of the . C 55 toddy ase has strainers , spoons , mats, and a hat made from the leaves o f probably this Species o f

6 6 FO OD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Te ddy is obtained from this palm . sa e The central part of the trunk contains a g like flour , “ called ipura ma and Humboldt considered it very agreeable. The fruit is covered with narrowscales resembling pine f cones , and yields di ferent articles of food , according to the time when it is gathered— saccharine when ful ly matured and farinaceous when immature . On the Amaz o n River a favourite beverage is prepared from the fruit by soaking a quantity in water till it begins to ferment , and the scales and pul py matter so ften and c a n be rubbed o ff .

When strained through a sieve the liquor is ready , and has a slightly acid taste . Aubl et says that bread is made from the large kernel in the stone of the fruit . m In British Guiana , fans and baskets are ade from the

o f . Tib isiri Split leafstalk, and sandals the leafstalks fibre ,

o r o f e the cuticle ( Skin) the young leaves , being v ry strong . and durable , is used for making hammocks

Buriti P a lm

(Ma uritia uinif era )

P B This alm is found in great abundance in razil , especially

o f P in the swamps iauhy and Goyaz , and is called Buriti . “ E o B N .2 The Guide to the Museum of con mic otany , o , o n .4 3 P P at Kew Gardens, p , calls it the Wine alm of ara , describing it as “a tall graceful palm with cylindrical

o te dd trunk , fr m which a kind of wine ( y) is obtained by cutting down the tree and making several holes about 6 3 inches square , inches deep , and about 6 feet apart . S U GAR 6 7 In a Short time these holes become filled with a reddish ” coloured liquid . On the Rio Negro the hard outside portions o f the trunk are used f or building purposes . Between the outer scales and hard central part o f the fruit a reddish coloured

the o f Cra te w pulp is formed , which inhabitants boil ith

o o r ea t . sugar and make int a sweetmeat , with farina

P h s In iau y, they prepare from this pulp an emul ion which ,

o . when sweetened with sugar, f rms a very palatable beverage Hammocks and mats are made from the young leaves and cuticle (or skin) of the leaves .

Ca ho un

(Atta l ea cohune)

C A native of tropical America , called orozales (Spanish) ,

P R o r C Ga l l ina rio P . and alma eal , orozo ( anama) Toddy is obtained from the trunk of the palm .

o -nut o il Seeman says that an oil , superior to c co , is obtained from the nut by the following process — Break the nut ; pound the kernel in a mortar ; boil till the o il

o ff . He rises to the top, and then skim it does not state whether it is used for human food or not.

Sugar / cane

(S a ccha rum ofi cina rum)

so e The inhabitants of tropical countries , far as I hav m - read , do not get their sugar fro the sugar cane , but from various palms and the Maguey plant. Sugar-cane is only 6 8 F OOD F OR TH E TORP I CS

w cut in grown as a s eetmeat, being up short pieces , the

o ff outer skin stripped , chewed, and the fibrous part thrown

. 18 20 away The juice is a delicious drink , and contains per cent. of cane sugar. In Venezuela sugar is obtained as follows " The cane i minus the leaves is taken to a m ll , and the juice squeezed o ut between two strong iron rollers , then run into large n iron pa s , where it is boiled and inspissated by gradual

ul o f evaporation , and finally poured into wooden mo ds , 1 5 . conical Shape , about inches high It solidifies into brown ” o . B sugar, called locally papel n In orneo the Golden Yellow Cane is considered the best variety as a sweetmeat . Sugar is a powerful antiseptic.

Coco—nut

(Cocos nucifera )

P This alm also yields Sugar, as described in Chapter V.

Banana

(Musa sap ientum) C alled Guineo in NewGranada ; and Ba eo ve o r Figue B u . anane (French G iana) As a rule, the banana when ripe is small, round , sugary , and finely flavoured. The o , n is plantain the other hand, large, coarse , flat , long, and o r in taste resembles rice potatoes , showing that it contains a lot o f starch ; it is generally gathered green and unripe , b and oiled o r roasted like a vegetable. The banana is a S U GA R 6 9

a rine o no t its sa cch dessert fruit , but d es develop full per f ectio n o f flavour until it is in the last sta ge o f ripeness. The bunch is cut as soon as o ne o r two o f the fruits begin

r to change colour, then hung up in the house f o a week o r

w a nd so , by which time the whole bunch is yello , ripe , fit for food. CHAPTER VIII

FR U I T

LL o f a A fruits have a varying amount t rtaric , citric , and

- o o il . malic acids , fruit sugar, and s me volatile

They would seem to have cooling properties , and also act R D t as microbicidal antiseptics. ichet, in his ic ionnaire ” Ph siol o ic . i . . 6 08 de y g , vol , p , places the acids they contain in the third most powerful class o f antiseptics . The volatile oil also acts in this direction (see the chapter ” C . ondiments , p

Mango

(Ma ngif era indica )

De Candolle says this fruit is a native o f the regions at the

the H w E Arra ca n base of imalayas , especially to ards the ast , , P egu , and the Andaman Islands . The two principal localities in India f o r growing mangoes are Mazagon in Bombay and Malda in Bengal . The best Indian varieties are

C . 1 Af o oz B o . 2 Kua b o lass I ( ) , a mbay variety ( ) g,

o Af o o z . 3 Dur a small green fruit , as go d as the ( )

b hun a h. 4 Go a l b o h . 5 B urma g ( ) p g , a Malda variety ( ) , o r Derrima , with a vanilla flavour. (6) Kishenb o gh Dur ’ b hunga h. (7) Buckley s Co wra ya Mald a. (8) Maharaj P usund . FR U I T 7 1

Class II . Melon Mangoes (because o f musk scent) . Na ro ika K erb uz a . (2) Mo hed enugger Kerb uz a . (3 ) Dho o l a

K erb uz a . o f Walla All of these are fine quality , and ripen late in July . Class III . Bud a ya s. Fuz l ee Bewa. (2) Durbhunga h

B . 3 Tha ko o r udaya , with no fibre and thin skin ( ) Mohur , o ne o f the latest and best .

E the t e a re In Savu , ast Indian Archipelago , best varie i s

Do o d o o l Sa nto ek u . Mangha , Mangha , and Mangha G re

m n no the f o r The choicest a go has fibre in pulp , and flavour cannot be rivalled by any fruit in the world b ut a bad mango tastes like to wsoaked in o il o f turpentine . Mangoes should no t be eaten freshly plucked from the

f o r fe w tree , but gathered when ripe and laid upon a shelf a days to mature. n n The green fruit is used in various ways , the sto e bei g

o ut o r first taken , and the mango cut into halves slices

1 r 2 o il ( ) put into cu ries ; ( ) made into a pickle with salt, , and peppers (chillies) ; (3 ) made into preserves and jellies

4 a by being boiled and cooked in syrup ; ( ) boiled , str ined , n and with milk and sugar made into a custard , know as “ 5 a mb chur u mango fool ( ) dried , and made into , sed f o r adding acidity to certain curries (6) when very yo ung

s cut into small pieces , mixed with a little alt, sliced chillies ,

d . and milk , and made into a tasty sala

1 e When ripe ( ) it is made into curry , giving it a sw et

no t 2 acid and unpleasant taste ; ( ) cut into small pieces , and made into a salad with vinegar and chillies (3 ) the

o n juice squeezed out , and allowed to dry plates , forming the thin cakes known as a mb sa th in India . Salted mangoes are much eaten with fish curries . 72 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Ta marind

(Ta ma rindus indica )

f o f A native o tropical Asia , the west side Madagascar , and tropical Africa . It is called Iml ee o r Aml ee (Hindu stani) Pul iya m—pa z ha m (Tamil) Assam (Sumatra) Itsen H - Yamia , and Tsamia ( aussa land, West Africa) Madiro

M ua d schu Kisua h E (Madagascar) q ( , ast Africa) ; Subar

Lo o ua o o B C (Arabic) ; q j ( ari country, entral Africa) Mas

B m - e B Ca - ( agir i , West Africa) ; Mag y ( urmah) ; y me (Cochin-China) Kamal (Java) Neghka (Malay) Mkwaju (Swahili language) and Hommar in Abyssinia.

Ta ma rindus occid enta lis In Venezuela , South America , the is indigenous. The part used is the large flat pod filled with acid pulp.

It is largely eaten, being a favourite acid ingredient in curries and ; a cooling drink is also made from it by boiling the pulp in water and sweetening with sugar. It ff is specially useful during fever and biliary a ections , and is considered as one o f the fruits most beneficial to health in the tropics . In India the seeds and epicarp are

o r u more less removed by hand, and the p lp generally

1 0 . o f r mixed with about per cent salt, and beaten o . crushed into a mass The seeds are largely eaten, the outer skin being removed by roasting and soaking , then boiled or fried ; they are also used after being dried and . - ground The Arabs steam , sun dry, then knead it into balls with salt and o il to counteract the eff ects of d amp ; . thus prepared , it will keep for years

74 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Mo ra fi o n C P New E ( uba , anama , Granada , and cuador) Mund iri . - Kaju (Hindustani) ; , etc (Tamil) ; Jidi mamidi

a . P a ra nki- - . vitt , etc (Telegu) ; mava kuru , etc (Malay)

- . B . and Thee noh , etc ( urmah) - The fruit is the succulent pear shaped footstalk, bearing at its extremity a kidney-shaped nut. The pulp of the foot stalk is sweet and cooling ; the juice is extensively used f n in the preparation o a refreshing drink , which is k own m to prevent scurvy ; also , stewed with sugar, it akes an excellent preserve. The kernel of the nut is extensively

to eaten , after being well roasted remove the acrid oily principle which lies between the two outer coats o f the kernel. This acrid principle is somewhat difficult to remove . When the kernel is young it is said to be better h t an the walnut ; when older it is usually roasted , or

s ometimes ground up with cacao, and makes an excellent cho colate. The kernels are also made into confectionery with sugar.

Guav a

This is the fruit o f different varieties of the genus

P o f sidium, which is a native dry mountains in Guiana , B . razil , etc The following Brazilian varieties are considered the

1 e— a best " ( ) Araca do Matt little acid , but agreeable ;

2 Ro — ( ) Araga xo agreeable , sweet , and a little astringent ; — (3 ) Araga -merim with a sweet taste ; (4 ) Araca Pera

o r o f 5 purple Guava , delicious flavour ; ( ) Araca Goiaba, o r Larger Yellow Guava— a l ittle astringent ; (6) Araca F R U I T 75

C do ampo , with an agreeable taste . In Venezuela a Guava is called Gua ya ve Guayabo (Peru) Jambu-biji

M -kia e . ( alay) and Loue , etc (Siam). t The fruit has a strong aroma ic flavour, and Euro peans like it stewed baked in the form o f jelly o r made into “ ” the well-known guava cheese . The jelly is made from the Larger Yellow Guava . Guava cheese is prepa red from pulp left over after making guava jelly . The pul p is strained to remove the seeds lime juice and sugar added and then b o iled till it is fairly sol id . Guava jam is called go ib a d a in Brazil. The rind is o ften stewed a nd eaten with milk or made into marmalade.

Mangosteen

(Ga rcinia ma ngosta na )

. A native of the Molucca Islands , etc , cultivated in South

. - . B East Asia generally It is called Men gut , etc ( urmah) Mang-cut (Annam) and Mong-khut (Cambo dia and Siam) .

o f the t The pulp fruit is soft , juicy , refrigerant , wi h a mixture o f sweetness and acidity. It has an extremely d elicate flavour and aroma ; but to taste the fruit in per f ectio n it must be eaten as it is gathered from the tree . t It is considered very beneficial in fevers , and excellen vinegar is made from the fruit in Java . b ut It does not grow well in the open plains , succeeds

. best in hot moist valleys The seeds are generally abortive , tt n so that , if plants are wanted in other countries , cu i gs o r suckers must be obtained . 76 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Durian

(Durio z ibethinus)

n o f P This fruit is a ative the Malay Islands , Malay enin sula, and South Tenasserim ; and is extensively cultivated . It is called Duyin (Burmah) ; and Mfinessiya -kisungu

Kisua h E . ( , ast Africa)

a t It must be eaten a particular time of ripeness, and will not keep longer than five to six days after plucking. The Burmans cover it with a cloth and coat . it with clay to make it keep It is very aromatic , which is probably due to the presence of a volatile o il . Colonel B “ iggs says that it is richly and highly flavoured, resem bling marrow rather than fruit, and decomposes rapidly when ripe, when its odour becomes very disagreeable . This has caused it to be disliked by some who have not been able to eat the fruit fresh from the tree. It is ” beyond question the finest fruit in the world . Wallace “ E a us says it is worth a journey to the ast to taste it, bec e it has such an exquisite flavour.

P ine / Appl e

(Ana na s sa tiua )

- This well known fruit , which is a native of Tropical w America , and generally found gro ing in dry localities o n o o f the utside forests , is extensively cultivated throughout the tropical world . FR U 1 T 77

Cherimoyer

(Anona cherimo lia )

o f l t A native tropica America , especially Sou h Mexico , Oriz a d a P in the region , Jalapa , and anama at Chiriqui . Huanaco in Peru (50 00 feet) and Loja are famous f o r this h tree , whic , when in flower, has an exquisite scent. It is considered by the Creoles the most delicio us fruit

. Dr. t r in the world Seeman says , The bes quality o f f uit ” o so is grown on the sl pes of the Andes , that apparently elevated districts are best suited for it . The pulp o f the

t to frui has a strong aroma , which is probably due the presence of a volatile o il .

Sapodilla

(Achra s sa pota )

A native of the West Indies and Central America . It is

s ul . al o c tivated throughout India It is also called Sapota ,

B Nis ero u e ully Tree , Naseberry, and p in Venez ela ; Sapot (Peru) and Sa pa til l a (St.Domingo) . two o r d The fruit when ripe should be kept for three ays , “ thus making it soft and mellow. Firmi nger says that a

no t met more luscious , cool , and agreeable fruit is to be . with in India , or perhaps in any country

Papaw

(Ca rica p ap a ya )

o f o es A native of the shores of the Gulf Mexic , W t P . B a Indies , to eru , etc It is called Mamoeiro ( razil) Lechos 78 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

P -b a n . B (Venezuela) ; Papayo ( eru) ; Thin , etc ( urmah) , - P . . Muh kwa (China) ; and apa, etc (Malay) The flowers with the male (o n long stalks) and those with the female (with no stalks) organs grow o n separate trees.

When the fruit is green it is peeled , boiled , cut into small pieces , and served with oil, vinegar, salt , and pepper , thus forming a very palatable vegetable ; it is also used in curries o r pickled in vinegar .

a o r When ripe it is eaten r w, either with sugar, with pepper and salt. “ Sloane says the unripe fruit is cut into slices , soaked in water till the milky juice is removed , then boiled or ” . baked , and eaten with pepper and salt

The milky juice of the tree , much diluted with water, is often used to make tough meat tender. The meat is

the washed with the juice , and action is due to a ferment, which has the effect of separating the muscul ar fibres. It is Often sufficient to wrap the meat in the leaves for a Short time— perhaps half an hour— to obtain the same result.

Custard Appl e

(Anona squa mosa )

o r This fruit is also called Sweet Sop , Sugar Apple , and is a native o f the West Indies and tropical America. It is called Atta (Brazil) ; Anon (Venezuela) ; Manoa

P r k -sa apona (Malay) Se i a ya (Java and Malacca) Ame , etc. (Burmah) ; Fan-l ih-chi (China) ; Sharifah (Hindu stani and Arabic) and Sita-palam (Tamil) . F R U I T 79

General Jenkins says that it grows sponta neously in

. India, in the most rocky and barren places The custard-like substance o f the inside o f the fruit ha s a most delicious and delicate flavour and aroma .

Sour Sop

(Anona murica ta )

A native of the West Indies and Tropical America ; called Guanabano (Venezuela and Peru) ; and Corossol (French Guiana) .

. a nd o f Mr Gosse says it is lusciously sweet , a delightful . . acidity The acidity is due to malic acid , etc An agree

e able beverage is made by dissolving it in wat r, straining , and adding sugar to taste . It has a very cooling effect in fevers.

Ro sell a

(Hibiscus sa bd a rifla )

Called Red Sorrel in the West Indies ; Vinagreiro (Brazil) To co swa s (North-east Africa) Lal -ambari

H Shiva u-ka shurukvira i . E ( industani) pp , etc (Tamil) rra

- . P o l echi . C gom kaya , etc (Telegu) ; , etc (Malay) ; hin

-ni B . o f o s a poung , etc. ( urmah) It is a native tr pical A i

and Africa , and widely cultivated in the West Indies ,

B C . India , urmah , eylon , Queensland , etc A moist climate

. seems to suit it, and the red variety is the best

o f b ut It is not the fruit itself which is made use , the thick succulent sepals which envelop it ; these a re used 80 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

for making a pleasant acid drink ; also for jam and jelly most delicious puddings can also be made with them. In the fresh state it is very acid and refreshing. In Burmah r the leaves are used in and cu ries , like Spinach ; for soup and also as greens. A general consensus of opinion appears to exist regarding its valuable antiscorbutic properties .

Pumelo

(Citrus d ecuma na )

o r P o m el mo s Sho uh- - Also called Shaddock, p ; ton oh (Burmah) ; Sha nkto nes (Malay) ; Buoi (Java) ; Hiu or Yu - (China) ; Laranjeira Tura nga (Brazil) and Moli kana (Fiji).

It is a native of the Malay Archipelago , Friendly Islands ,

Fiji , and cultivated in most tropical countries , especially in India and Burmah.

o ne There are two varieties , with white pulp , and one with deep red or purple pulp. The deep red variety is . l m the most esteemed When very large , it is ca led po ” s ilmo usses pol ons , or sometimes and when small , is “ p called forbidden fruit. Firminger says it must not be

u o n gathered too soon , and m st be left the tree as long as possible. It keeps a long time.

Jack Fruit

(Artoca rp us integrif olius)

C P . P - etc . alled ila , etc (Tamil) anasa pandu , (Telegu) P ein na i . B Mfinessi Kisua h E g , etc ( urmah) ; ( , ast Africa)

TH E TR P I CS 8 2 F OOD F OR O

P a ssi ora ua d ra n ul a ris (1) Granadilla ( fl q g ) , or Square - stalked Passion Fruit " called Maracuja assu in Brazil

Parcha Gra nadina in Venezuela ; also called Ba rb a d ine in French Guiana . It has a very fine flavo ur. (2) Water Lemon (P . l a urif o lia ) " most extensively . cultivated in Honolulu, etc , and in the West Indies called

’ Pomme d Or. Cu P . ma li o rmis o f (3 ) Sweet p ( f ) , the West Indies - C Apple fruited Granadilla or Sweet alabash , and called Maracuja Mamoa in Brazil .

e- G P .ed ul is " (4 ) P urpl fruited ranadilla ( ) in Queensland , B . Passion Fruit ; in razil , Maracuja de Suspiro Green at b ut ha s - . first , when ripe a beautiful plum colour P P .l in ul a ris - a (5) archita ( g ) Venezuelan variety, and considered o ne of the finest fruits in existence.

In order that the Granadilla may bear fruit in perfection , u the plant req ires to be cut back to the main trunk , or . stem , every year When flowering it has a most delicate

. fragrance , and can be made to trail over an arbour The u n fruit p lp is cool, refreshi g, with something of a fragrant bouquet . P m B In eru , a variety, called Tu bo or adea, is cut into slices and eaten with sugar and spices .

Lichee Nut

(N ep helium Litchi)

In India it is called Litchi ; Kayet-mouk (Burmah) - or C . o f C and Tan li Lichi ( hina) A native South hina , C -C P ochin hina , and the hilippines , and cultivated largely in I ndia and other parts of the tropics . F R U I T 83

n The fruit is nearly round , and the edible portio is the sweet jelly-like pulp which covers the seeds . The whole is

h o n . enclosed in a t in reddish Shell , with warty pr tubera ces The fruit Should be eaten as soon as possible after being . C plucked It is dried by the hinese , and then becomes

f o r darker in colour , and in this state it is often seen sale in

n e . The E o the Londo Sh ps dried fruit , as sold in ur pe , - bears no resemblance to the delicious , bitter sweet pulp when obtained fresh .

Wn ater Melo

(Cucumis citrul l us)

- This well known fruit is much prized in warm countries ,

f o r n not merely as an article of food , but quenchi g thirst a nd allaying fever.

Jambu

Eu enia Ja mbos o r Ja mbosa vul a ris ( g , g ) “ . Called Jambu in Samarang , Java , Tahiti , etc - - Ca y-d a o -annam (Cochin China) ; Rose apple (Engl ish) Jambu (Singhalese) To ff a h (Arabic) Ja mb eiro (Brazil) - P o m-arosa (Venezuela) ; Jambu mera (Sumatra) ; and Gulab-Jaman (Hindustani) . It is a native o f the East B Indies , and largely cultivated in India , urmah , and other countries . o f The fruit is about the size an apple , reddish , and - . It smells like rose water , the pulp being white is a most delicious fruit. s4 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Baobab

(Ad a nsonia d igita ta )

f A native o tropical Africa , but cultivated in other N tropical countries ; and called Mowana (Lake gami , Africa) .

o f The pulp the fruit, which has a pleasant subacid

f o r . flavour, is much esteemed making a cooling drink Ro binso n states that the leaves are used in soup in

Ha ussa l a nd .

Mobola

(P urina rium mo bola )

n o f a nd m A ative tropical Africa , so etimes called Mola . The fruit has a strawberry-like flavour.

Anona S enega l ensis

A native of tropical Africa . Moloney calls it one of the

n n u . best ative fruits , and resembli g an apricot in flavo r The petals are used to flavour food .

Carambola

(Averrhoa ca ra mbola )

B elieved to be a native of the Moluccas , and introduced B C into India , urmah , hina , and South America. It is ca lled

Zo un - B m Wu- -tsz e - n C g yah ( ur ah) lien , and Ya g tau ( hina) and Blimbing-manis (Malay) . F R U I T 85

t a The tree bears three times a year, the frui being s la rge ’ as a hen s egg , with five acute angles , and yellowish thin smooth rind. Highly prized for curry .

(Ac errhoa bilimbi)

C B H P ul ich-cha kka . alled ilimbi ( industani) ; y, etc

Pul usu— -l u . Vil umb ikka etc. (Tamil) ; kaya , etc (Telegu) ; ,

- -si . B . (Malay) and Kala zoun , etc ( urmah)

Jabuti

(Eugenia ca uliflora )

C a b utica b a a b o tica b ura s o ne t alled J or J , and of the mos agreeable fruits o f Brazil.

O o f B P n Grumixa ther good wild fruits razil are ita ga ,

Ca mb u . P a C meira , y, and Uvalha The itang is called erise Carbee in French Guiana .

Asam Gelugur

(Ga rcinia a troviridis)

A native of the East Indian Archipelago , and called Asam Gel urgur (Malay) . The fruit is dried in slices f o r eating with curry.

Langsat

(La nsium d omesticum) t A native of the Eas Indian Archipelago , and Langsat by the Malays . It is a very popular fruit. CHAPTER IX

B E VE RA GE S

Cocoa

(Theobroma ca ca o)

THI S tree is a native of tropical America and the West . Indies , and develops best in a moist coast climate It

bears fruit from the third to the fourth year, which is not

o ur . allowed to ripen , however, until the f th or fifth The C C best variety o f cocoa is called acao de aracas , which t is cul ivated in Venezuela , between the rivers Unare and Yaracuy.

The pods are cut from the tree , a small portion of the stalk being left . At the place where the pod is attached there is a so ft cushion or eye from which all subsequent

is flowers and fruits arise , and if this eye damaged by the

o d o ff n p being ruthlessly torn instead of bei g cut, the tree ,

. B as far as this point is concerned, becomes sterile y strik

o ne ing pod against the other, both will break ; the beans ff m u are then stripped o fro the central p lp, and , with the adhering pulp , are left to ferment from four to seven days so as to loosen the pulp , then the pulp and fibrous tissue

. the are removed by hand After cleaning , beans (seeds) are spread out on a tray or cloth to dry, and , while drying, are carefully turned so as to be exposed o nall sides to the sun. B E VE RA GE S 87 When well dried the outer skin of the kernel should be hard

. and crisp, and separate easily from the kernel below The

so to m beans are carefully picked , as free them fro any

o r - o as which are mouldy worm eaten , and then gently r ted t in an iron cylinder (over a fire) , wi h holes in the ends to allow the vapour to escape ; when the aroma is wel l deve

o . N n l ped this part of the process is complete ext , the bea s are turned out, cooled , and freed from the husks by fanning and sifting . The bean itself is now ready (minus its outer

o r o n covering) to be crushed in a mortar, a smooth heated n t . stone by means of a roller, thus becomi g a pas e The Mexicans have a special b andmill f o r this purpose. The

fla vourin o f w g materials , in the form a fine po der , are now worked in with it also the starchy substances and sugar.

o It is then sprinkled with a few drops of c ld water, placed

. in tin moulds , and left to harden in the air

use When required for it is ground to a fine powder, and prepared in the usual way with boiling water. Chocolate - 4 2 1 80 Asiatico has cocoa paste , parts ; powdered sugar , ; 1 1 2 6 4 l sweet potato flour, rice flour, and powdered vani la o r 3 . t cinnamon , When cocoa is prepared locally it is bes

t o ut to boil it a shor time , and, before pouring , stir until there is a good deal o f froth .

2 .o f The cocoa bean contains per cent theobromine , a

Oil 52 . . little volatile , and per cent of fat (butter) , etc

K o l a

(Col a a cumina ia ) f A native o tropical Africa , the area of growth extending inland 500 to 6 00 miles. It is called Guru Nut (Western 88 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Soudan) ; Na ngo ue (Monb uttoo country) ; and K o ko ro ko u (Niam Niam country) . Each nut has from five to fifteen seeds. The epidermis or skin o f the seed is the principal seat of the colouring

o f matter, and beneath it the seed consists starchy material , . etc., with the caffeine and theobromine The seeds can be treated like the cocoa bean. When dried they lose their w . bitterness , giving place to a s eeter flavour

0 0 23 . o f ca fi eine Kola contains per cent theobromine ,

2 3 4 o il . (theine) , and a little volatile , etc

Yerba Maté

1 l ow a ra ua ensis . ( p g y , etc )

o f B P A native razil and araguay , where it forms woods , ” called yerb ol es.

The leaves are collected , placed in a hide net, and well

fire n dried by a lighted underneath , care bei g taken that none are burned . They are next pulverized to a coarse powder by means of a rude wooden mill then pounded into . 1 4 dust, the whole being afterwards packed in hides In 88 , l b s. were consumed in South America , where the beverage made from it is universally used . It is sucked through a tube called a Bombilla. Yerba Ma te contains 1 3 per cent .of theine and a little . volatile oil , etc

C offee

(Cofi ea a ra bica ) E A native of Abyssinia , ast Africa , and cultivated in all tropical countries.

CHAPTER X

CON D I M E N TS “ MI TCHEL BRU CE says that the aromatic volatile oils are in

the mouth antiseptic , and also increase the circulation of the

blood, exciting the nerves of taste and smell (flavour) power fully. Several results o f the first importance in digestion

o . f llow, viz , increase of saliva , reflex increase of blood to the

s urface of the stomach , stimulation of appetite , increase of

o by pleasing flav ur, in a word desire for, enjoyment ff of, and digestion of food . In the stomach the e ect on the

vessels and nerves is continued , and here it is generally described as carminative . Besides causing increased flo wo f

gastric juice by stimulation of the mouth , these substances are powerful stomachics in several ways . The blood vessels o f the surface of the stomach are dilated and the nerves of

the same are first excited, then soothed the contents of the

stomach , if decomposing as in dyspepsia , are partially disinfected . Their reflex influence is equally important . The

muscular coat of the stomach is stimulated, thus increasing . gastric movement , expelling flatulence Thus they are general stimulants. In the intestines they are still found

partly unabsorbed , increasing local functions , stimulating

fla tus. intestinal movements, and expelling They thus

” Ma teria Me ic a .24 3 . d , p CONDI M E N TS 9 1

prevent pain o r Spasm (colic). They enter the blood un

o x d iz ed o changed , and whilst partly y by the red bl od . corpuscles, leave the circulation mainly unaltered They

are excreted by the lungs , skin , kidneys , liver , and probably by the bowels . In passing through those structures they stimulate and disinfect them . As it is now a well-known fact that the microbes o f

. is malaria , fevers , etc , exist in the blood , it quite obvious that if the volatile oils enter the blood chemically unchanged n and leave it again mostly in this co dition , they will exert their antiseptic influence on the disease germs and kill them . Of course what applies to the oils in their isolated

o r condition will apply to them when still in the bark seed ,

. . etc , used as spices Richet states that Miquel has experimented with anti ” septics in order to see which are the mostp owerf ul . The

o f . result has been to Show that bichloride mercury, etc , are the most powerful ; vol a til e oil s and hydrocyanic acid

(prussic acid) are placed in the next class ; carbolic , oxalic ,

tartaric , and citric acids in the third class boracic acid and hydrobromid e of quinine in the 4 th class. Foster states that Cadeac and Meunier have experimented with about ten volatile oils in order to asoer tain the l ength of time required to kill the microbes of typhoid fever. The o nly Spice oils tried were oil o f cinnamon and o il o f cloves . These beat all the others in the rapidity with which they killed the microbes . The

o f microbes malarial fever , cholera , and tropical dysentery , so n . far as I k ow, have no t been experimented with All

” Dic tio nna ire d e P h sio l o i 1 7 o l .i . . 08. y g c , 89 , v , p 6 ” P ra ctic a l The ra euti cs vo l .i . .4 4 8 un er G e rmic i e s. j p , , p , d d 9 2 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

microbes o f the class referred to belong to the lowest forms

. P — of animal life , viz the rotozoa and probably antiseptics act Similarly o n all. The malarial microbe is very easily killed outside the i . body ; in fact, there is a difficulty in keeping it al ve So that it would appear as if the volatile oils could easily kill the microbe in the body. The most recent researches in medicine show that the

s three principal disea es in India are fever , cholera , and tropical dysentery . In all these complaints the microbes

o f are present in the corpuscles the blood , and have entered the body by the lungs , with the food and water , or, as recently proved by Major Ross (Director o f the School o f

D l o . Tropical iseases , Liverpoo ) , by the bites of mosquit es ’e “ Allb utt l states that these microbes are the immediate

. t Bruce cause of the disease Quinine , as Mi chell Tand

B us a s a n a ntise tic artholow I inform , acts p , and ” kills the microbe. This drug constitutes the usual medical

o f o ne ha s treatment malarial fever, but no ever realized

o f s ices the great value the p , which act as a constant pre ventive to the above diseases by killing the microbes if they

b o r . enter y the lungs , mouth , Skin Bartholow states there is a distinct relation between the antiseptic a nd antipyretic properties o f various members o f the group of antiseptics as they have the power to depress temperature in the same ratio as they are active ” in d estroying d isease germs o r ferments .

” S ste m o f Me icine 189 7 vol .ii. .3 09 . y d , , , p ” ‘ Ma teria Me ic a .26 5. j d , p M a teria Me ic a .203 . I d , p Ma t i M di c a 1 9 6 .3 66 . er a e , 8 , p

9 4 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

e er o t . and p pp p , which has cassareep, chillies , etc (tropical ” America and West Indies) . This is called a rub e o r

B . C tucupi in razil urry powder contains green ginger ,

o o dried chillies , stick cinnam n , cl ves , nutmeg , mace , tur

m m - Serra e meric , carda om , le on grass ( y , in Sumatra) , with . lime juice , tamarind , mango , and salt “ Many Europeans are under the impression that curry and rice means curry powder and rice . This is not so .

C fish n o r urry means , bea s , peas with vegetables , Spices , and

hi . salt, w ch are eaten with rice boiled separately So curry

E v e and rice are equal to the uropean course of meat, ge tables , potato , salt , and pepper

o f The ingredients chutney are green ginger, chillies , t r n t. ama ind , ma go , lime juice , sugar , and sal The active principle in the following condiments is an essential or volatile o il .

Capsicum, or Chilli

There are two principal kinds of the genus Cap sicum ’ o f m -fin er the larger, with fruit the length a an s fore g , l usua ly termed capsicum ; and the smaller, with fruit

1 — l . about 5 inches in length , usually called chil i (pepper) There are three varieties most commonly cultivated in tropical countries

1 C. a nnuum Ma ttisa H n s ( ) , called in i du tani , and in

i a o r Pimenta o . Brazil called Quija , or Quy , When green

l f or n i this chi li is used pickli g , and when ripe it is m xed

. with tomatoes , etc , to make sauces ; it is also dried and ground into cayenne pepper. The consumption of this variety is very great in hot countries as it is the principal CON DI M E N TS 9 5 ingredient in all curries and chutney. Ground into a paste w t o il bet een stones , wi h a little , ginger, and salt , it is good seasoning for rice and various dishes . 2 P H ( ) Goat epper , called Lal Mirich in industani and Pimenta de Cumari in Brazil . In Ind ia it is the co m monest and largest species , and when ripe the pod is bright red. When picked it is laid o ut o n mats to dry in the . B sun , and is an indispensable ingredient in curry oth green and ripe it is much used for pickles. By pouring hot vinegar on the fruit all the essential qualities are ” procured , and this liquid which is called chilli vinegar , is used f o r fla v o uring. The pods are often dried on hot plates or in a slow oven , pounded in a mortar , then passed n through a ha d mill till finely powdered , well sifted , and

f o r . preserved in a corked glass bottle use In Jamaica ,

are ground into it, and it is then called “ ” cayenne butter. 3 B ’ - C P P ( ) ird s eye hilli or epper, called imenta Mala gueta in Brazil . This small chilli is no t so m uch in request as those already mentioned it is principally used

f o r making chilli vinegar and , mixed with salt , is employed

f o r . C seasoning hillies are often fried in oil , and eaten . with beans, fish , etc

C innamon (Cinna momum Zeyl a nicum)

This tree is a native of the mountain forest districts o f

C . to . Ca nell a d e eylon , etc , up feet It is called , Ceylon in Brazil ; K a ia ma nis or Kul etma nis in Malay.

n so When under cultivation , the you g bushes are pruned , as to prevent the formation of trees and to cause them 9 6 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

m o r she e ts to produce stalks , fro which four five are allowed to grow. These she e ts are in perfection at from

o eighteen months t two years , when they begin to turn brown o n their surface . During the dry season they are R n - cut O by mea s of a long sickle shaped knife, and the leaves stripped o ff . The bark of these she e ts is cut through

o ne transversely , at a distance of foot , and two Opposite longitudinal incisions are made to connect the transverse ; and finally the bark is removed by introducing the peel ing knife beneath it . The pieces o f bark are then placed one within the other, bound together in bundles , and left f o r twenty-fo ur hours . The two external layers of bark are then carefully removed by scraping , for which purpose each quill is pl aced on a piece of wood of the required thickness. w The bark is kept one day in the shade , after hich it is placed o n sun wicker trays , dried in the , and finally packed in bundles. This spice is used generally for purposes of fla vouring also for making curry powder. The following are varieties Cinnamon (C.iners) called Jangli-d a rchini (Hindustani)

Siki a b o . B m . and y , etc ( ur ah) The bark and leaves are used in curry. Cinnamon (C.o btusif olium) called Pa ticha nd a (Assam) .

The dried leaves (which are aromatic) are used as a spice , and in curry.

C l C. Ta ma la Da l chini . H assia ignea ( ) called , etc , ( indu stani) Thit-kya -b o (Burmah) . The leaves are commonly used as a condiment. The cassia buds (unexpanded flo wer h heads) ave properties similar to the bark, and are used as spices . Cassia bark is used for fia vo uring dishes.

9 8 F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

Cra ve do Maranham or Cucheri of the Indians yields cloves especially in the provinces of Para and Solimoes. The unexpanded flo wer-buds are gathered by hand when bright red, and then dried, causing them to turn a brown colour. In Sumatra they are dried by simple exposure to the sun for several days ; elsewhere they are occasionally smoked on hurdles covered with netting , near a slow wood

fire , and are ready for keeping when they break easily between the fingers . The clove is richer than any other

o il o f Spice in essential (or volatile) , which there is from 1 20 . 6 to per cent Like cinnamon , cloves are used for

fla vo urin . g, and are added to stewed fruits and jams

C ardamom

(El etta ria ca rd a momum)

This plant is called Choti-elachi in Hindustani ; Po oa h

El l a ka . Lako (Sumatra) ; y, etc (Tamil and Telegu) ;

Pa nl a t . B Ca ul a a . B , etc ( urmah) ; p g , etc (Malay) ; leki

Kisua h E C B ( , ast Africa) ; and ardamomo ( razil). It is

a native of West and South India , in the moist forests . of the mountainous tracts of Mysore , etc OH The fruit is picked , and spread out for four days on mats which during the day are supported on

sun four sticks and exposed to the , and at night taken . into the house The scapes are stripped off , and the

' com l eted b . C drying p y a gentle fire heat In oorg , India , is s the fruit tripped from the scape before drying , and CON DI M E N TS 9 9 the drying sometimes wholly eff ected by sun heat . This is t o f the mos valuable all the Indian condiments , and is extensively used for fla vo uring sweetmeats and certain cooked dishes ; the natives also chew it with betel leaves . In Cochin-China cardamoms are often chewed after meals .

East African C ardamom

(Amomum)

This Cardamom is called Ma tungul a (Kisua h) Matun guru (Uganda and French U nyo ro ) Lo ngo z y (East coast o f

’ Madagascar) ; K ora rima (Galla) ; Guragie Spice ; Kheil (Arabia) and Oggieh (S .Abyssinia) . In north-east tropical Africa the inhabitants use the ff E crushed seeds to mix with co ee , just as the gyptians use H - abbe han , which are Abyssinian seeds of the same plant. The aromatic pulp surrounding the seeds (carda moms) is much eaten .

Mel egueta Pepper

(Amomum Mel egueta )

A native of west tropical Africa , and sometimes called Guinea Grains (English) and Ha b sel ia (Niam Niam) .

It is esteemed as a most wholesome Spice , and generally used to season food in West Africa . The aromatic pul p surrounding the seeds (pepper) is much eaten . I o o F OOD F OR TH E TR OP I CS

WAf i n r est r ca Peppe

(P iper clusii)

This plant is widely distributed in tropical Africa , and is called Irrei (Yoruba) also Tara (West Africa) . In some parts it is called Do j vie . In West Africa it is largely used to flavour soups and

other dishes. The plant has bright red berries , and generally grows in mountainous country as a climber on moderate-sized trees in forest thickets .

Betel Leav es

(P ip er betl e)

B This etel is probably a native of Java , but is much cultivated in the hot and damp regions o f the tropics . It

P a n H Vettil a i - o e is called ( industani) ; (Tamil) ; Kun y , etc. (Burmah) ; Vettil a (Malay) ; and Siri (Java and Sumatra . It is a perennial creeper . ) “ a ra kene The leaves contain an alkaloid called ,

o il also an aromatic volatile , which is only active when

they are green ; when dry, they wholly lose the oil , and with it all their valuable properties. They are masticated by the inhabitants of South Asia when combined with . ‘ cardamoms , nutmegs , cloves , and other spices Some - natives also use areca nut , but this would seem to ff be objectionable , as it has the e ect of colouring the

. - is teeth black When areca nut used , a little lime also is

1 0 2 F OOD F OR THE TR OP I CS

Nutmeg

(Myristica f ragra ns)

. This tree is a native of the Moluccas , etc , and is largely cultivated. The fruit ripens during the rains , being about

o f . the size a large plum , with a green covering It bears . all the year round , but most abundantly every second year

oe It is monoecious as well as di cious , but you cannot tell which until it flowers and fruits at the seventh year. Nutmeg and mace are largely used as condiments. The mace is a kind of fibrous network which covers the nutmeg , or seed . Ginger

(Zingiber ofi cina l e)

This well-known product is cultivated in all tropical countries. About the middle of winter the roots are ready to take up , when , having been well washed and dried, they may be “ stored away. It is called White ginger when it has been n dried in the sun , washed , and scraped and black gi ger when it has no t been scraped . To make preserved ginger the tubers should be taken up when very young and tender, the plants being then about . five to Six inches high Scald the tubers , wash in cold . 1 . water, and peel Make a syrup ( lb of sugar to 1 lb.of

water) , into which stir gradually the beaten whites of two

eggs , then boil and Skim well ; when quite cold , pour m t it over the ginger, cover it , and let it re ain from wo to

. B three days oil the syrup again , and , when cold , pour it CON DI M E N TS 1 0 3 over the ginger a second time . Proceed till the syrup has

l o u through y penetrated the ginger, which y may ascertain . by its taste and appearance If the syrup , when hot , is poured upon ginger it will shrink and shrivel.

Vanilla

Va nil l a l a ni olia . p f , etc )

A native of tropical America , where it is found growing wild in the shaded warm ravines o f damp mountainous forests. Fertilization is carried o ut naturally by insects

in its wild state, but under cultivation requires to be done artificially. The plants are cultivated by placing the roots

a on trees which have a soft b rk , to which they cling and absorb nourishment therefrom .

The fruit is a long pod , which contains amongst its con stituents a volatile oil and a considerable quantity of benzoic acid. A few ounces will flavour 1 cwt. of chocolate. w Gather when yello , and after a Slight fermentation lay

sun d r . - out in the to y When about half dried , rub with

- o il n sun mahogany nut ; and after again exposi g to the ,

sun f o r apply more oil , and expose in the several days till “ properly dried. Bentley and Trimen sa y the fruits (pods)

are collected before they are quite ripe , when their green colour begins to disappear. They are then dried in the . shade , and afterwards covered with a coating of Oil CHAPTER XI

P ROD U CTS N OT AN AL YZE D

North African Doum P a lm

(Hyp hcene Theba ica )

A NATI VE of north tropical Africa and South Arabia . It is called Gingerbread Tree (English) K erz im (Bornou) Kolongo (Bagirmi) Goreba (north of Kano) and Fa robier (Senegal) .

Seeman says that the fruit is much larger than the date , and equally nutritious. The Spongy internal part o f the

fruit is an important article of food , and when mixed with an infusion of dates constitutes a cooling drink. The rind

a nd t is thick mealy , containing a bit er but not disagreeable “ juice . Baker says that the fruit is pounded between two

. stones , and the edible part detached This is eaten raw, o r boiled into a delicious porridge with milk. It has a strong flavour like gingerbread . “ The leaves are used for thatching, mats, etc.; and f o r ” the best kind of hats.

A P P E N D I C E S

APPENDIX I

PERCENTAGE COMPOSITION o r SOME ARTICLE S o r FOOD or TEMPERATE ZONE.

Na me .

n o 6 9 0 Church

750 15 4

MEAT Lea n b eef 72 0 19 1 P a vy

BU TTER ’ Butter(from co ws 10 0 1 0 Church mil k) ' 1 0 8 A P P E N DI CES

PERCENTAGE COMPOSITION o r SOME ARTICLES OF FOOD OF THE TROP I CAL ZONE.

N a me.

B READ

Grea t mill et Bul rush mil l et Ra gi

Ma iz e M a nio c Rice U nripe pl anta i n (fl o ur) B rea d fruit flour Commercia l sa go P OTATO

Sweet ca ssa va

Ta ro S we et po ta to

79 6 22

MEAT K ingfish (edibl e Atwa ter a nd a rt Wo od s U S A p , . . .

Sha d (edibl e pa rt)

Turtl e , Green ( ed ib l e pa rt) S oy b ea n

Green gra m 10 Bl a c k gra m 1 0 Gro und nut 7 Mo th b ea n 1 1 ~ Lima b ea n 13 °

Ca tia n b ea n ' g 12 (with husk) a a n C j pea , orRed 13

A P P E N D I X 1 1

B IB LI O GRAP H Y

” Gra ins o f I d a B A H.Chu h. Cha ma n Ha l Fo o d n i . y . rc p l , Ltd . Lon on. , d Dictiona ry o f Economic Pro ducts o f India . By Dr.George Wa tt. Go ernment P ress Ca l cutta . “ v , Ma nua l o f Ga rdening for Benga l a nd U pper a nd Southern ” In a . B T A.C Firmin e r. .Tha c er Co . Lon on di y . . g W k , d “ a nd Ca l cutta . Sketch o f Fo re stry of West Africa . By C.A.Moloney. Sa mp son Lo w Co . Lon o n “ , , d H stor a d a s Pl a nta s Al menta es d o Bra s e tc B The o o i i i r il, . y o d r Pecko l t. Rio d o Ja neiro . ” Cutures Tro ca l es. B P.Sa o t. Cha ll a mel Pa r s. “ l pi y g , i Tro sche A ri ul tu . B Dr. F. Wohl tma nn Dna pi g k r y . cker Humbl ot Le . , ipzig Tropica l Agriculture. By P. L. Simmonds. E. N. Spon Lond on. “ ” Pla ntes Al imenta ires d es Pa ys Cha uds. By Gusta ve Heuz é. L b ra r e A r col e Pa r s. i i g i , i ” Tra ité Pra tique d e Cultures Tropica les. By J. Dyb owski. Cha ll a mel Pa s , ri . APPENDIX II I

FI S H E S

THE fo llowing l ist gives the na mes o f some o f the b est edible fishe s o f the tro cs a nd the r ha b ta t pi , i i . NOTE .— The La tin a nd Engl ish na mes a re given where possible .

WEST INDIES.

Ca ro nco B a rthol omei.— Gre en Ca va ll a . Ba rb a do es. El eo tri s gua vina .— Lo che . Fresh-wa ter fish. Gua da loupe. E l eo tris gyrinus.— Teta rd. Fre sh-wa ter fish. Gua da l o upe. Engra ul is ed enta ta s.— Anchovy or Sil ver-fish . Ja ma cia . Gobius ma rtinicus.— Pa cou. S t sa l ted r e a nd whe pli , , d i d, n is highl y prized . Lobotes a uctorum. -Atla ntic c oa st-l ine o f tro pica l America . M ona ca nthus to mentosus.— Horned Cone -fish. , y M eSOp ri o n cynod on.— Yell owta il S chna pper. P hil yp irus d ormi ta tor.— Do rmeur. Gua da loupe. Rho mbus ocel l a tus.— Fl oun er o r P a ce d , l i . Up eneus ma rtintons.— Queen Mullet. Aigrette. Windwa rd I sl a nds. Angel -fish. Also a t Ba hia a nd co a st o f Me xico . Chuck. Cutl a ss. Hogfish. Kingfish. (Yo ung) ca lled Cora mour. I s a grea t delica cy . Mo roco to o r Osibu. Mullet. I 1 2 AP P E N DI CE S

S chna pper (Bla ck). (Gra y)

SOU TH AMERICA.

— Arap a ima giga s. Rivers o f Bra zil. Ca ra na gua rap ucu. -Ca va lho . Ba hia . — p isguetus. Sol teira (Ba hia ). Also c o mmon a t Rio d e Ja neiro . Coryp hcena suerei i. Cybium rega l e. -S ororo ca . Ba hia . C cl a to ucouna ra i .— In the La e o f Pea r es o nce o f Go a y k l , pr vi y z , To ca ntins Ama on R er. Ca ll e To uc o una ra i b ut b h , z iv d ; y t e Cha mb o a s o f Ara ua it is now a s K ni-tera i g y, k n i y. Hemi ra mp hus bra si li ensi s.— Agulha -creol a . Ba hia . Al so co mmo n a t Rio d e Ja neiro . Jo ka ins cro uuina . -Crouvina . Cr a s R e Ara ua ix iv r, and g y}River. — M esop rion chrysurus. Ra b a b eta . Ba hia . Mugi l l i z a .— Mull et. Rio d e Ja neiro . steo l o ssum minus.— Arona na . To ca nt ns a nd Ama o R e O g i , z n iv r. P i ocentrus ira a .— P ra nha . Go a Bra l . g p y i y z , zi P oma centrus va ria bi li s.— Ma ria -Mol l e. Ba hia . P ri stip oma a ca rap inima .— Frea d e (Ba hia ). S a l mina s hil a rii . — a b o Ve rmel ho . Rio Verme ho B a . R l , r zil S errio l a cosmop o li ta .— Ga ra pa s. Ba hia . — Va stres giga s. Pira rucu. Ama zon River. Often sa lted. “ Burton in his b o o ent tl e H hl a n s o f Bra ment o ns , k i d ig d zil, i P a u-b ra nco Cur ma ta Anod us a ma z onum Lo a n o Doura o a nd i , i ( ), g , d , Ca cunete a s o o d e b e shes. , g di l fi

SOU TH AND EAST ASIA.

Ana ba s sca nd ens.— Climbing Fish ; S enna l (Ta mil) ; U ndi-col li M a . A fresh-wa ter fish o f In a Ce l on a nd Burm h. ( a l y) di , y a

1 1 4 A P P E N DI CE S

M u il Co rsul a - Mul l et. R vers o f Burma h In ia Ea st In a n g . i , d , di Archi el a o Pers a n Gulf Re d S ea etc. The sa l te Ro e is p g , i , , d c onsidere d a grea t del ica c y. Mugi l cunnesius.— Ma hl a h (Ma l a y) . S e a fish. Op hi o cep ha l us ma rulius.— Cho a ri-vera rl o r Cura vu (Ma l a y). A river fish. Os hro menus o l a oc.— The oura m o f the Ea st In ia nArchi el a o p f G i d p g , Co ch n-Ch na etc . The Dutch in Ba ta v a rea r this fish in i i , i e a rthen essel s renewthe wa te e er d a a nd fe e it wth v , r v y y, d i no thing b ut fresh-wa ter pl a nts. It ha s b een intro duce d into Ca en e S outh Amer ca French est In a s a n s a nd y n , i , W di n i l d , Ma uritius. P o lynemus i nd icus.— Yeta (Ma l a y) . Se a fish. The Bo wha ll o f Euro ea ns a t V a a a ta m a nd Ma l a P en nsu a . p iz g p , y i l P o lynemus pa ra d i sea s.— Ma ngo -fi sh ; Nga -pungna (Burma h) Topsi-mutchi (Benga l ).

P risti s cus id a tus. - S a wfish. S ea fish b ut a scen n r ers. p , di g iv Ri ta B ucha na ni . -A river fish. S erra nus d i a ca nthus.—~Kil li -min (Ma l a y). l a nceo l a tus.— Kurrupu (Ma l a y) . S hih a n.— Shi a n Ma ca o Chl na . p pp ( , ) S troma teus niger.— Bla ck P o mfret ; Ka r-a rwuli (Ma l a y). Al so foun a t Ba a moia Ea st A r ca . E tens el sa l te a s we a s d g , f i x iv y d, ll e a ten fresh. — S tro ma teus a rgenteus. Sta n-gyn (Chinese). sinensi s.— White Po mfret ; Vel l a -a rwul i (Ma l a y). Sea fish. Co ok when quite fresh. It is a l so extensivel y sa lted. Tri cho a ster a scia tus.— In sea a nd r er Extens el r e a nd g f iv . iv y d i d, in Burma h ma de into nga -pi. Up eneo id es c i tta tus. —Chirul (Ma l a y). Red Sea a nd India n sea s.

SOU TH PACIFIC AND U EENSLAND AU STRALIA. , Q ,

‘ B el one K refi ti .— Fitzro y Ga r-pike . Ca ra noo a l l us.— D a mo n -fish. Al so fo un a t A en Ea st A rica . g i d d d , f Cha no s sa lmoneus.— Also fo und in the Ma la y Archipel a go . Cha tcessus el onga tus.— Bony Brea m. A P P E N DI CE S 1 1 5

Chrysop hrys a ustra l i s. a xil l a ri s.— Jewfish.

ha sta . Clup ea hypsel osoma . —A Queensl a nd Herring. sund a i ca .— Plentiful a t To rres Stra its. Cossyp hus a urif er. l a tro . Cybium commerso ni.— The S eirfish of India . Dentexfi l if er. -Long-ta il e d Pe rch. Drep a ne puncta ta .— Cho nghu (Chinese). Spo tted Do rey. “ ” “ En ra uli s na sutus.— The fo o ca e redfish o r a -mera h g d ll d , ik n Ma a is ma e fro m th s fish. ( l y), d i Cenyoroge a ma bi l is. —The Hussa r. regia .— Queenfish. Hemi rha mp hus a rgentous.— Snub -no sed Ga rfish. — La tes ca l ca rif er. Q ue ensl a nd Perch. Lobotes a ucto rum.— Queensl a nd Dusky Perch. Lethrinus chrysostomus. Mega l op s cyp rinoid es.— Gia nt Herring. Mesop rion sup erbis.— Red Ba ss. Mugil .— Mull et. — Mugil wa igi ensis. Northern Mul l et. Muroenesox cinema s — Pike Eel . ” N i s — The e ca c ow a s Pa ol o is sma l ma rine ere . d li y kn n l , a l worm wh ch a t erta n t m o f the ea a ea rs a st , i , a c i i e y r pp in v sho a l s o n the su fa ce o f the sea ea r S a mo a To n a F a nd r n , g , iji, o ther Pa cific Isl a nds. It is rega rd ed a s o ne o f the da intiest l uxuries o f the Pa cific. They a re tie d up inbrea d -fmit lea ves a nd b a ke d . Osteogl ossum Lei chha rd ti.— The Ba rra munda . Fresh-wa ter fish. — P l a ta ce orbi cul a ris. Silver Dorey . Al so fo und a t the Admira l ty I sl a nds. P o lynemus S herid a ni .— Ma ry River o r Burnett River Kingfish. One ” o f the Ta ssel -fishes.

P o l nemus tetra d a ct l us.— Co o tow sa mon o r B nni Ca r . y y k n l , y p P ri sti oma ha sta .— a e n-fish o r ueens a n Trum eter. p J v li , Q l d p P settod es erumei - Al so fo un o n th a c a st o f A r ca Ea . d e e st o f i , st I a Sea s a nd the An a ma ns ndi n , d . 1 1 6 A P P E N DI CE S

P seud o ca rus rivul a tus.— Pa rro t-fish.

— - Rhinoba tus gra nula tus. Sho vel no sed Ska te. Al so fo und a t the And a ma ns. S il l a go cil i a ta . -S a nd Whiting. Sp ra ttel“oid es d el ica tul us.— One o f the fi shes use d in the prepa ra tio n o f red -fish in the Is a n o f Cel eb es Ea st In a n l d , di Archi pel a go . S tro ma teus niger.— Bl ue Ska te. Also fo und o n the ea st coa st o f Afr ca Ea st In a n S ea s a nd the An a ma ns. i , di , d — S yna gris ta miop terus. Gol d Perch. — - Syna ncid ium horrid um. Stone fish.

APPENDIX I V

TR OP I CA L S E E D M E R CH AN TS

.P. l a m B others Hena ra t o a . Ce l o n. J Wil i r , g d y V mo -An r eux Cie . 4 ua d e l a Mé sser e. Pa r s. il rin d i , Q i gi i i

6 22, PR W . TE Y M C WES A D S M ND BECC ES B O N O S TE ON A IN D ILLIA L N , LI I D, L L