The International Premium Magazine for the Textile Chain ® Photo: Istockphoto

9-10/2017 English edition

The international premium magazine for the textile chain www.textile-network.com ® Photo: istockphoto

”We would-be greens“

An essay entitled “Wir Gernegrünen” dustry. At the same time, the fast and getting closer to (“We would-be greens”) and penned fashion industry, sections of which what it is we are by journalist Daniel Behrendt, pon- are known to have a culture of pre- wanting to protect: ders our inconsistencies in matters of carious working conditions, are con- Nature.“ And, of course, environmental protection and has tinually setting new sales records we should keep ourselves made a lasting impression on me. with their cheap clothes. well informed and we can start in the Iris Schlomski, Behrendt writes that 89 percent of The discrepancy between our here and now. This latest issue of tex- editor-in-chief Germans perceive climate change as thoughts and our actions is obvious tile network, for example, contains a threat. Yet at the same time, sales and as wide and multifaceted as envi- several ideas for a better, more sus- (Essay “Wir Gerne- grünen“, Daniel for SUVs, the thirsty urban all-terrain ronmental pollution itself. Those who tainable textile world, e.g. our big Behrendt, GT, vehicles, are rising by around 20 per- do make an effort have every right to Leather Special on p. 20 and our “Fi- 22./23. Juli 2017) cent per year. feel deflated – our eco-system is too bres and Yarns” series on p. 36. For And what about plastic waste in the complex, its balance so fragile, and the logistics experts among us, I world’s oceans? “Although we’re the impact of single actions barely would recommend the “Öko-LogWi“ deeply moved by the death of our noticeable. And what we believe is research project in Hanover: this is an seas, our careless consumer behav- environmentally friendly today, can optimisation model designed to help iour is increasingly contributing to be outed as an eco-sin tomorrow – companies lower their production growing levels of ocean waste. The one need only think of the diesel and logistics costs whilst improving average German produces 611kg of scandal, but then that’s another story their lifecycle assessments and car- rubbish every year, 72kg of which are altogether. bon footprints! The ultimate aim is to plastic.“ And what about to-go pack- Even so, resigning ourselves to doing calculate ecology and efficiency cor- aging? “Our unbridled use amounts nothing would be wrong. Behrendt rectly and accurately. By the way, the to 320,000 disposable cups an hour! believes that an honest effort is one project is currently looking for part- This translates into around 3 billion that takes a careful and considerate ners! For more information go to disposable cups per year.” His outing approach to the things we use and www.oekologwi.iph-hannover.de into the textile industry is equally as consume. Shopping with foresight, interesting: 86 percent of Germans consciously choosing high-quality Yours believe that it’s important to have fair (sustainable) products that last long- working conditions in the textile in- er whilst “going out into the world

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9-10/2017 English edition The international premium magazine for the textile chain www.textile-network.com

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T H E F U T U R E www.textile-network.com T H E F UThe T international U R E premium magazine for the textile chain O F F A S H I O N O F F A S H I O N IS DIGITAL.

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Track 0 65170_TT_textile_network_spezial_210x297_neu • FOGRA 39 • • 39 FOGRA • 65170_TT_textile_network_spezial_210x297_neu parallel zu: Produce Sell SUBSCRIPTION. Learn more about Gerber’s Integrated Digital Solutions by visiting gerbertechnology.com/download/gerbers-digital-solutions/ Order today at: www.textile-network.com Ph content o to : F o to l ia Photo:Gunold Photo:Knopf und Knopf

10 | Trends

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20 | Special: leather

Fibres and yarns Photo: Innomedia 36 | Invista Photo:

Visit online: www.textile-network.com Issue 9-10/2017

EDITORIAL TRADE FAIRS SPECIAL LEATHER FASHION “We would-be greens“ 3 Fashion Week Berlin Gerecke Leder Freitag Compostable clothing 31 Sustainability – Using sustainable TRADE FAIRS Caddon more than just a trend 8 tanning process 20 TV Tecstyle Visions 2018 Digital colour management 32 Stoll Nearly fully booked 6 Use of 'Genuine leather' Lectra 7. Mtex+ 2018 Stoll Knitelligence 9 symbol requires a licence 21 Strategies for the digital Discover Chemnitz (new)! 6 Trendpuls A/W 2018/19 future 35 Intertextile Shanghai Yolo – you only live once 10 TECHNICAL TEXTILES Where the global industry SPECIAL FIBRES AND YARNS gathers to do business 6 Milano Unica China Cordura Fashion meets Cinema 14 A rapid growth of the Love affair with durability 36 Munich Fabric Start nonwovens industry 26 Nilit Trends, Apparel Source Nylon 6.6 with unique Composites Europe functions 40 and Microfactory 16 Windenergie in the focus 28 MARKETS RESEARCH Malaysia IGF RCEP is only the next HOME TEXTILES best option 41 Pre-competitive opportunities for textile Guimaraes Home Helsa Icon India A new factory building 42 industry SMEs 18 Fashion Week textile network Sensor yarns 19 Home textiles made You can join our You can find us at Curtains with a in Portugal 29 network tool! 43 www.textile-network.com colour-variable mechanism 19 25th Proposte in TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY Revolution in industrial Cernobbio Mayer & Cie. laundries 19 The joys of a beautiful Circular knitting sets Carpet of steel 19 home 30 footwear trend 44

4 textile network | 9-10/2017 Visit online: www.textile-network.com

Photo:Gunold

16 | Redifined The Vulgar - Fashion Vienna Imprint Preview for e-Commerce Efficient contentproduction perfect product content Steps towards achieving protection Championing climate Hermes Germany dialogue High attendanceforthe IVGT Remits indigitalchange Industry 4.0-part4.2 superlatives In-house showof 80th anniversary Karl Mayer- LAST BUT NOT LEAST PREVIEW /IMPRINT BUSINESS TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

Trade fairs

F a b t r r a i t c

S 54 53 53 50 49 48 46 45 Issue 9-10/2017 Titellegende www.lenzing.com [email protected] Fax Phone AUSTRIA 4860 Lenzing Werkstrasse 2 Lenzing AG Das internationalePremium-Magazin dertextilenKette 63126 28 | +43 7672701-3917 +43 7672701-0 32 | Home textiles Fashion www.textile-network.de deutsche Ausgabe 9-10/2017

Photo: fotolia Photo: Takko Fashion OF GRAVITY THE LAWS ©2017 INVISTA. CORDURA andLIVEDURABLE are trademarks of INVISTA. cordura50years.com/360 360° itatMore. Experience There’s to more this story. TO EVERYONE APPLYDON’T trade fairs

TV TECSTYLE VISIONS 2018 Nearly fully booked It looks set once again to gain built Hall 10. The technology recognition as an important in- segment will be concentrated dustry event as it unites the lat- mainly in Hall 8. A large num- est finishing technologies and ber of reputed exhibitors will trendy product innovations un- be making the journey from der one roof. More than 140 abroad, underscoring once well-known manufacturers and more the international signifi-

trading companies dealing in cance of this fair. Trade buyers Photo: Wolfgang Schmidt textiles, machinery and decora- can look forward to another Norafin Industries is an exhibitor at the Mtex from the very beginning – a look into the tive materials have already highly relevant industry event modern nonwovens production of the company confirmed their appearance at with an exciting supporting the leading European expo. programme. Creativity will reach The topic of textiles continues new heights at the Golden 7TH MTEX+2018 to be a major highlight of the Shirt Awards, and will reflect Discover Chemnitz (new)! event. Accordingly, nearly all the celebratory feel of this an- the big brands will be showing niversary edition. International Exhibition for The 7th mtex+ International their collections in the newly [www.tecstyle-visions.com] Technical Textiles on 29 to 30 Exhibition for Technical Tex- May 2018 in Chemnitz, Germa- tiles, is an innovative exhibition ny: Compact, intensive, effec- that provides value added for tive and international. A spe- engineers, designers and man- cial exhibition with protective agers from every potential user and safety textiles / “health. sector. “We’re acting in ac- textil” exhibition on medical, cordance with the suggestion health and wellness textiles / made by exhibitors and trade “Futuretex” joint project pro- visitors to the 6th mtex+ and vides information on digital- we’re inviting people to a com- ised production / Cooperation pact and highly effective two- forums with Eastern European day event for the first time in partners / 16th Chemnitz Tex- 2018,” says André Rehn, Head tile Technology Conference / of the Exhibitions Department “go textile!” for young profes- at C³ GmbH, Chemnitz.

Photo: Messe Stuttgart sionals and specialists. [www.mtex-chemnitz.de]

INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI APPAREL FABRICS – AUTUMN EDITION 2017 Where the global industry gathers to do business

As the global apparel fabrics While Intertextile Shanghai is Functional Lab – which will fea- ries, finishes & coatings, mem- and accessories industry pre- well-known for its exhibitor and ture around 50 exhibitors this branes and more, particularly pares to gather in Shanghai this product breadth, buyers also edition – is the centre of innova- for athleisure, sports and out- October for Intertextile Shang- use it as a sourcing platform for tion at Intertextile, featuring a door wear, as well as lingerie. hai Apparel Fabrics – including the latest functional apparel wide selection of innovative Buyers looking for eco-friendly suppliers from 25-plus countries fabric innovations. The fair’s yarns & fibres, fabrics, accesso- options can find plenty to and trade buyers from around choose from in this zone as 100 countries – exhibitors are well. In addition to Intertextile gearing up for yet another edi- Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, three tion of strong results. Occurring other textile fairs are towards the end of the autumn held concurrently: Yarn Expo / winter sourcing period, buyers Photo: Iris Schlomski Autumn (hall 5.1), Chic (halls come to the fair well informed 2 & 3) and PH Value (hall 3). of next season’s trends, and are Read more about the fairs in our in a unique position to be able Online-Magazine www.textile- to make their purchasing deci- network.com. sions from the around 4,500 ex- [www.intertextileapparel.com] hibitors that will be present.

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics: The Autumn 6 textile network | 9-10/2017 Edition 2017 takes place on 11 to 13th October trade fairs

Fashion Week Berlin

Sustainability – Photo: Phil & Lui [1] more than just a trend? Looking through the lens of sustainability, a walk around Berlin Fashion Week in July 2017 brought some interesting discoveries to light. This outing highlighted that sustainable production and operations really have “arrived” and are being embraced by brands, manufacturers and consumers.

The “hippy eco image” of the past is shion becomes ever more “normal” Even Italian textile guru Vittorio being superseded by a natural and and starts muscling in with the con- Giomo, who has long since been more caring approach to resources, ventional brands. 'part of the furniture' in the design, workers and production conditions. Among the highlights of this event colour and trend scene, no longer Production volumes and locations were the stand by the Web Fashion introduces himself as a designer or are being challenged and where ne- Academy, created in cooperation consultant but as a “sustainable cessary, alternatives are being with the Italian “Venette Waste” thinker”, appearing as such at both found. The industry has finally gras- project, and the presentation by its fairs. ped that it is our future that is ulti- founder Rossana Diana, who carved mately at stake! out a name for herself after working A glance at Premium, Seek Let’s just retrace our footsteps. for Vivienne Westwood for many ye- Show and Selvedge Run Perhaps not surprisingly, our first ars. If Italy, one of the world’s grea- Premium at Gleisdreieck, which to- stop was the twin fairs Ethical Fa- test forces in the world of fashion, is gether with Panorama is deemed shion and Green Showroom, both of giving sustainability a chance, there one of the most important hubs at which are wholly devoted to organic is no doubt that people are going to the Berlin trade shows, is seen as a fashion and have found a new and sit up and listen. The focus of this la- gauge for the overall mood within fitting home in the iconic Funkhaus test push on sustainability remains the industry. Not surprisingly, the Berlin. The exhibitors are even tren- firmly on design and style, as the majority of exhibitors appeared to dier than before, as sustainable fa- one should never exclude the other. be pleased with the outcome of this event. The exhibitors included the Rossana Diana Düsseldorf-based label Wunder- werk, which was launched in 2012 and features sustainable and fair- trade fashion. What made this company opt for Premium? In conversation with textile network, company founder Heiko Wunder explained: “Premium was as always a great success for our business and was rounded off nicely with a fashion show at Ethical Fashion. We were invited to the show as a special guest on the back of our Get-To- gether Event at one of our Berlin stores. I’d say that Premium is the right fair for us because it attracts all the buyers and decision makers

Photo: Venette Waste Venette Photo: currently in the market and we also

8 textile network | 9-10/2017 [1] Phil & Lui [2] Wunderwerk [3] Monkee Genes STOLL Mantra Tee Stoll Knitelligence

With Knitelligence, Stoll presents Photo: Monkee Genes Photo: Wunderwerk Wunderwerk Photo: [2] [3] an innovative networking concept for the textile production of come across customers who aren’t ducts from other lifestyle segments tomorrow. Knitelligence com- necessarily looking for a sustainable which stand in opposition to the va- bines all the software solutions collection but simply love our fa- lues espoused by our disposable so- from Stoll and thus covers the en- shion and its quality, knowing they’ll ciety. Sports d’Epoque from France, tire value creation chain of flat- receive real value for money. Many for example, breathes new life into knitting production: Products are positively surprised to see that historical sports strips, e.g. from cy- such as M1plus, APM, GKS, PPS, we produce our products not only cling and rugby. The garments, EKC, and autocreate interact with sustainably but also to a high stan- which are designed with great at- each other, automate processes, dard of quality in Europe.” tention to detail, are produced ex- and network production stages. The Seek Show, which is staged to- clusively in Portugal and France. In this way, customers benefit gether with Bright, located in the Indigo People, which had a stand from more consistent workflows, Arena by the River Spree, not only both at Selvedge Run and the Ethi- shorter, transparent production spotlights established brands but al- cal Fashion Show, is synonymous cycles, and an increase in quality, so interesting new labels. Disco- with traditional techniques from productivity, and, therefore, over- vering the stories behind these la- Asia, craftsmanship passed down all plant efficiency. bels is a fascinating undertaking. the generations and the use of ge- With the modern IoT technology Take Monkee Genes, for example, nuine indigo, coupled with authen- from Stoll, customers can not only which boldly prints its T-shirts with tic and timeless denim designs. The design their processes to be con- the slogan “no blood no sweat no buyers of these garments subscribe siderably more efficient, but can tears no slave labour no child la- not only to traditional dyeing and also react far more flexibly to the bour”. The label from the UK not on- textile techniques but also to sustai- requirements of the market. “Our ly produces a cool, trendy yet ethical nable projects and genuine denim aim is to always develop further denim collection but has also found- rarities. for the benefit of our customers. ed its own charity, which supports, And why Berlin? In conversation Knitelligence is an important step among others, a Children’s Founda- with textile network, the brains be- in that regard,” says Andreas tion in Bangladesh as it attempts to hind the Munich-based label “Phil & Schellhammer, CEO of Stoll. Stoll open its mostly young customers’ Lui” explained: “We exhibited at continues to set standards in the eyes to the perils of “fast fashion”. Premium last year and it was a great age of digitization and, with Kni- Kings of Indigo, established in 2012 way to establish new contacts and telligence, is creating substantial by a ‘genuine denim’ expert in Ams- refresh old ones.” What sets Phil & added value for its customers: terdam, sells sustainably produced Lui apart from its competitors is its highly efficient flat-knitting pro- denim styles in more than 12 coun- ability to combine organic and fair duction through the optimization tries. The company uses recycled with design and style, whilst provi- and networking of individual pro- materials as well as organic cotton ding a rounded package of quality, duction steps. and hemp, whilst supporting the pleasant tactile properties, colours [ www.stoll.com/knitelligence] Fair Wear Foundation, and revealing and washes, as well as an interes- the names of its fabric producers (al- ting back story. most all of which are in Europe). The [Reiner Knochel] enterprise also attaches importance [www.venettewaste.com] to quality workmanship, ensuring [www.wunderwerk.com] that the garments last for many ye- [www.monkeegenes.com] ars. [www.bricktownworld.com] Selvedge Run focuses on companies [www.kingsofindigo.com] that give priority to durability, tradi- [www.sports-depoque.com] tional production techniques and [www.indigopeople.net] craft. The exhibits mainly comprise [www.phil-and-lui.de] denim and leather, but also pro- Photo: Stoll

9-10/2017 | textile network 9 trade fairs

Trend-Pulse Autumn/Winter 2018/19 Y.O.L.O. – You only live once In the process of making its Autumn/Winter forecast for 2018/19, the VDMD Trend-Research-Team asked young people about their priorities in life and their attitudes. They are our future customers and through them parents and grand-parents gain insights into a wholly different way of life. The research brought to light four main maxims: “You only live once”, “Do it yourself”, “Appreciate and love” and “Work-life balance”.

These headings find expression in # K.Y.S.H. – keep your an harmonious world of colour, in spirits high turbulent surfaces, new technical materials and prints, in every imagi- nable visualisation from explosive to subtle. Y.O.L.O. – meaning “you only live once” and “it’s my life”, Y.O.L.O. is

an expression of a society that is Photo: peppermint compelled to operate globally yet withdraws to pursue very personal interests. A society that becomes visible through millions of individual Photo: Knopf und voices on social media, but one that we can operate globally, taking a is losing its individuality and sense personal stand in our direct and of security, and feels threatened by global environment, in ethical and the rapid rise of digitalisation and ethnic issues and in an individual robots. Individualisation is a mega lifestyle that gives us the strength to theme of the future and is clearly re- face the future. flected in new products. They are The first theme is devoted to an ur- becoming more individual, more ban dream: shaped by meeting plac-  surprising and less “classical”. Between the poles of individuality and 4.0, four major themes are emerging that express what we really want for ourselves and which developments we need to watch warily and consider critically. The home, our castle, is still very much our main source of safety and comfort, and a “refuge” to which we can always escape. It is Photo: Edelreich von Eschenbach from this point of safety that

10 textile network | 9-10/2017 CELEBRATE WITH US Visit TV TecStyle Visions 2018

10th edition 15 - 17 February 2018 Messe Stuttgart Europe´s leading trade fair for textile decoration and promotion

SINCE 2000 trade fairs Photo: Edelreich von Eschenbach von Edelreich Photo:  es in the beating heart of the city, ture, feeling it, appreciating it and an abundance of green spaces, a enjoying it and the atmosphere it desire to bring the cosy atmosphere invokes. Nature influences not only of the home out into the streets and textiles with additional technical

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# K.Y.S.H. – ness. o h keep your spirits high P Be yourself, think positively and in- # F.Y.I.V. – fluence your surroundings. Dare to follow your inner voice do new things and invest in your Make something yourself, buy re- dreams. gional products, create small oases, The colours radiate a sense of calm bring nature into your home and and serenity, they are unobtrusive body. The colours are reminiscent fabrics. The sector is listening yet charged with emotion. A cool of leaves and expanses of water, to and learning from nature, re- brightness and dark warmth com- flooded in sunlight and heralding searching ideas that benefit human- plement each other. Light cream the approach of autumn. Lush loud kind and translating them into tech- and brass shine bright. Violet and green and sunny yellow still pre- nical and smart textiles. The acces- grey. Light blue merges into cool vail. Sumptuous colours start losing sories and trimmings also like to em- brown and warm burgundy. their intensity, fading to grey and ulate nature, in colour, shape and The fabrics, textures, surfaces and slowly turning into fertile earthy texture. Manufacturers are giving prints are allowed to look imperfect tones. ever greater priority to sustainabili- with lively, sandy, velvety and torn The fabrics are sustainable and recy- ty, not only in terms of the materials structures on a plain ground. Ten- clable, imitating animal hides and used and the production processes sion is created by marrying up the skins. Large animal motifs are implemented, but also with respect formal with the casual, and soft, printed on leather, tweed, to reusability and recycling. The flowing fabrics with rigid ones. cashmere and loden and theme of nature is taking centre Designs embrace everything nature appears in thea stage, and is making people realise from irregular graphic draw- trical interpretations that sustainability needs to be taken ings to photo-realistic portraits with leaf motifs on seriously and that our lifestyles must and intentional eyecatchers. stone looks. New adapt to accommodate it. Purism is given a new lease elements include The third theme evokes a longing of life and no longer ap- technical coatings for one’s own culture as well as pears as severe. or patent on fulled those of other countries. On the This is also true of the ac- one hand, friends and neighbours cessories and trimmings. are valued and invited round for The button in particular meals in the home. On the other is developing a life of its hand, people in our society are own. Its texture may ap- committed to values and old tradi- pear decomposed or # F.Y.I.V. – tions, and to helping migrants and follow your scanned, adapting to Photo: Jim Knopf inner voice disadvantaged ethnic groups. casual and puristic out- fits. Decorative elements # L.A.Y.N. – are kept on a tight rein, love is all you need with function and look Get involved, throw yourself into aligning themselves to the the mix, learn to love the Other and needs of the wearer. be hospitable in the original sen-

The urban theme develops last se. We are one world. summer’s content further with a Wagner Sabine Photo: The colours are an expression of

focus on individuality. Photo: Peppermint a wild love of life, passionate The second theme takes us on a self-worth and a deep sense of journey into nature. This is all ‘we’ rather than ‘me’. Iridescent about thinking in tune with na- and pulsating describe the glow of

12 textile network | 9-10/2017 Photo: Bodo Jagdberg

Advertisement stones adorn culture sneakers. Brooches, intricate buttons and cloak pins hold scarves and pon- chos firmly in place. The collusion

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o new perspectives of traditional va- h P lues. Overall, traditions and the colours reminis- look of foreign cultures are increa- www.adf3.stoll.com cent of southern singly being introduced to a mo- spices. They are dern, more casual world. This the- accentuated with me will continue to evolve over the deep green, violet, next decade, bringing to light new silver; by contrast, the deep oil co- copper and brass. The styles and lifestyles. lours are heavy, dark and subdued. fabrics can be richly decora- The fourth theme is young and The fabrics are mostly soft. Their pri- ted, boasting crystals, patches wild. Young people are no longer ority is to deliver comfort and cosi- and pleats, also lending themselves driven by business but are keen to ness. The more rigid fabrics come in to eveningwear. Conversely, jac- find a healthy balance between new shapes that envelop the body. quards and embroidery on brocade work and life. Leisure and holidays Hand-crafted elements are every- are becoming part of the everyday are just as important to them as lo- where and crochet work is perfected wardrobe. Prints not only draw on ving their work. They want to be on the machine. Be it transparency, traditional ornamentation and the free and long for a taste of risk and lurex, fake leather, lace, coatings, paintings of the great masters, but adventure. cuts, bi-coloured leather, embossed they also feature tattoos and pho- or traditional materials – they are tos of old buildings. A mix of valua- # T.O.N.T. – all mixed and patched together to ble tradition, cross-cultures and fu- try out new things make something colourful and new. turism. The collections of accesso- Accept turbulent times, let go of old Colours can be poured or sprayed, ries and trimmings embrace a cul- structures, open yourself to new printed randomly or with large-for- tural mix. Lavish decorations and things. Surrender to romance and mat photos or paintings. All themes embellishments are the order of the your emotions. Live in the moment. are embraced and exaggerated, day. Tassels are made from rubber The colours conjure up images of they are surreal, mixed and only threads, artificial feathers and ap- sorbet, ice-cream, candy canes, loosely structured. pliqués are applied three-dimensio- dreams in deep blue and twinkling This is also true for the accessories nally to braids, lending them a stars. Light and bright describe # T.ON.T – try and trimmings. Glitter, crystal, se- out new things touch of the theatrical. Embroide- implied rosé, violet, mi-precious stones, sequins, chains, red braiding and semi-precious and variations of fringes, lace, earrings, chokers and ankle chains are a law unto themselves. They are sometimes used sparingly, sometimes opulently. Bo-

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Photo: Edelreich von Eschenbach newly interpreted protest against established and rigid rules and habits. New life designs are created with refreshing sensitivity. [www.vdmd.de] [Mara Michel] Photo: Jim Knopf

9-10/2017 | textile network 13 Kurzmeldung Photos: Milano Unica

A popular platform at Milano Unica: the Trend Area. Based on the new collections for the au- Milano Unica tumn/winter season 2018/2019, Stefano Fadda’s team and the Milano Unica Style Committee created an inspiring visual concept with carefully selected fabrics and accessories. The exhibits were organised into the four proposed trend themes and Fashion offered visitors a hands-on experience meets cinema

The essence from which fibres and double-faced fabrics cosmetic surgery. Paolo Sor- Pedro Almodovar and dreams are made. The 25th with a soft feel, water-repel- rentino enriched this drive for “Victoria Victoria” edition of Milano Unica takes lent or thermal materials. luxury with opulent images of Transgender and agender the- its visitors on a magical jour- Sporty trends feature neopre- his drama “The Great Beauty” mes were as relevant in Blake ney through the imaginative ne, which can be made eve- which was full of extravagant Edwards’ American romance world of film, artistic aesthet- ning-ready with embroidery. parties, intrigue, deception, musical “Victoria Victoria” in ics and sensuous reflection. Another core feature will be power and mind games… 1982 as they are in the works eco-fur with its new look crea- Embodied in textiles, the gla- of Spanish director Pedro Alm- Cinematic inspiration ted by innovative technology, mour of the time is represen- odovar today. The male-fema- There has always been a available in unusual colours. ted by rich materials reminis- le dichotomy is accentuated strong connection between ci- Bouclé and jacquard now cent of Baroque and couture, with pop-like irony in surpri- nema and fashion. Many cult come with fringes and embel- like lamé, lurex, laminate in sing colour combinations: grey films have achieved their sta- lishments. An absolute must purple, lilac and green on meets red, nude meets green. tus thanks to their memorable this season is velvet – brand black or golden backgrounds, Typically classic patterns like costume designs, and magical, new with metallic, silky, iride- but always aiming for ironic pepita, glen plaid or dogtooth aesthetic and contemplative scent, pleated, printed and nonchalance and functionality. appear in macro or multicolou- characteristics are inherent in embroidered designs.“Cinema Fur is used in provocatively red versions, and jacquard is both cinema and fashion. is the essence from which bright colours, while feathers used in floral and geometric Both play with colours, shapes dreams are made!” (Charlie come in nuances of pastel. La- patterns for outerwear. Textile and light to create poetic ima- Chaplin) Milano Unica succee- mé cords and braids decorated collages of fabrics of varying ges full of longing or audaci- ded in drawing inspiring paral- with floral brocades, shimme- weights are a main feature ous expressions full of energy lels between film and fashion: ring ribbons and pearl-studded and mesh invokes a flair of lin- and sassiness. Just like in cine- In the cinematic realm, it is the buttons and appliqués refine gerie. Lace is being reinterpre- ma, anything is possible in fa- cut that ultimately makes or this luxurious look. ted with crochet styles and ty- shion. This is why the organi- breaks a film, just like daring, sers of Milano Unica have invi- experimental and high-quality ted four renowned film direc- base materials lend fashion Bringing forward the Italian textile and accessories fair tors to “stage” films and series objects their expressive power. from September to July has proved a big success. This deci- associated with a different ge- sion came in response to the growing demands of an incre- neration and produced by dif- Paolo Sorrentiono and asingly fast-paced market. The event offers comprehensive ferent filmmakers in different “Dynasty” solutions from trend analyses to the showcasing of talented countries. This mixture and fu- What does the cult family newcomers and services for the industry, visitors and the sion of diverse worlds creates show of the shamelessly extra- media. The latest collections of the 456 exhibitors (+20% bold synergies of vibrant co- vagant 80s have in common compared to September 2016) presented high and low fa- lours and imagery, unexpected with today’s “Trumpism”? shion as the summation of tradition and future, expertise contrasts and reinterpretations Hedonism, the nostalgia for a and education, art and craft. For the first time, the Area of the source material, using carefree era and escapism Disegnatori tessili provided the crème de la crème of textile wool, silk, velvet, trims and from the present. Excess is a designers with a platform for their most innovative crea- zips. dominating force, as is the ide- tions. New textile developments were also on display in the The key materials of the season al of eternal youth, which will exclusive Japan and Korea Observatory. are thick wool and felt, natural be achieved, even if it requires

14 textile network | 9-10/2017 pically masculine accesso- heights and raincoat materi- ries such as chains and but- als are coated with smudged Photos: Milano Unica tons are being reinvented in patterns. The ethnic feel is light or velvety materials. enhanced with fluorescent and iridescent colours, mul- Quentin Tarantino and ticolours and Tibetan inspi- “Little Buddha” red designs, while reflective At the heart of this theme are accessories and colourful the clash of different cultu- ribbons highlight urban in- res, the adventures of never- fluences. ending travels that lead to new horizons and customs at Stanley Kubrick and the edge of the world. It is al- “Sherlock” so a journey into the inner If Kubrick were to reinvent world of oneself, from which the iconic British character one emerges with renewed Sherlock Homes in the series mental strength. Would of the same name with his Quentin Tarantino create intellectual and futuristic ap- an updated remake of proach, ultra-high-tech inno- Bertolucci’s cult film “Little vation would morph with Buddha”, he would unabas- classic “brit chic”, tradition hedly mash differing styles with progress, rationality and interlace Eastern spiritu- with instinct. Elegance and ality with Western pragma- tailored perfection blend to- tism – a circle of departure gether with modern techno- and arrival, a life-long jour- logical pragmatism. The ty- ney. Nepal serves as the pically British nuanced co- main source of inspiration lours are disrupted with with its rituals and earthi- electric blues and bilious ness in juxtaposition with greens, classic patterns like the fast-moving and techno- tartan and checks are rein- logy-oriented American life- vented with blurred lines style. Textiles designed for and futuristic effects. Mo- world travellers provide pro- dern stripes adorn fabrics tection in extreme situations used for shirts, whereas de- whilst wool, fur and mohair signs of coarse jersey and ul- are still worn with elegance. tra-light silk are inspired by Ethnic-style fringes and reli- British tapestries. efs catch the eye, furs are [www.milanounica.it] arranged in different pile [Neli Mitewa] Photo: Neli Mitewa

OT_AZ_reSeite_105x297mm_TM_Danke_dt_engl_pfade.indd 2 03.08.17 13:49 trade fairs

Munich Fabric Start Autumn/Winter 2018/19 Trends, Apparel Source and Microfactory

The Munich Fabric Start, run- new technologies, future fab- ning from 5 to 7 September rics, bionomics and macro 2017, has many impressive and trends. interesting features in store for visitors this autumn. Coupled Realize now! with the extension of several A genuine highlight for visitors, existing Areas, the event pre- the Microfactory takes centre sents a new concurrent trade stage under the heading “Rea- fair, dubbed the Munich Appa- lize now – in four steps from de- rel Source. Located in the MTC, sign to product”. Following in this debut show represents the the footsteps of Heimtextil and next stage in the supply chain. Techtextil/Texprocess (Frank- Photos: Munich Fabric Start The Bluezone, Europe’s biggest furt), the Munich Fabric Start is denim show spotlighting 100 also exhibiting a complete pro- hands at the end of the process in full swing. Now is the time to brands, opens its doors for three cess chain, even for batch size chain. The production line incor- take advantage of the benefits days, also concurrently with the 1, comprising CAD/design, prin- porates the Cad.Assyst and of digitalisation, not only in the Munich Fabric Start. The “De- ting, cutting and piece welding. Vidya technology from Assyst individual phases of product denim Club” is hosting talks and Coordinated once again by the (Human Solutions). In conversa- velopment, but also throughout workshops on the topic of “The German Institute for Textile and tion with textile network, Dr. the entire process chain, right Infinite”. Located in the Bluezo- Fibre Research (DITF), Denken- Andreas Seidl, CEO of the Hu- down to the finished product. ne, this event aims to encoura- dorf, the project in Munich de- man Solutions Group, stated: Microfactories are a model for ge companies to stop thinking monstrates the production of a “Digitalisation is the magic the future!” Visitors interested in seasons, but to flow with running shirt made of functional word that is currently occupying in gaining a realistic impression trends that are implemented in materials from Schoeller – companies in almost every in- of the production process, the process of “real life necessi- based entirely on the designs of dustry and, in the apparel in- should not miss the Microfacto- ties”. The Keyhouse is likewise visitors who can hold the fini- dustry, for example, the digitali- ry at the Munich Fabric Start! open for three days, unveiling shed, sewn product in their sation of work steps is already [www.munichfabricstart.de]

Impressions – Munich Fabric Start Additionals highlights More than 1,000 suppliers, including around 90 international first-time exhibitors, are showing over 1,700 collections in the fields of fabrics and additionals. Companies from the Far East are presenting their trends in the Asia Salon, whilst individual prints and creative design solutions are the focus of attention in the Design Studios. Li Edelkoort is holding again a trend talk. “Embroidery” will be one of the highlights at the Additio- nals TrendForum. A ZSK embroidery machine and embroidery materials from Gunold bring embroidery to life! The first-ever Munich Apparel Source takes place in the nearby MTC (shuttle service provided between the MOC and MTC), featuring more than 200 internationally operating sourcing offices and production companies. This is complemented by a diverse conference and seminar programme about pioneering aspects of sourcing and the imminent revolution in the fashion industry.

16 textile network | 9-10/2017 See you at: Premiere Vision Accessoires, Paris Munich Fabric Start, Munich

GUNOLD. Threads, Backings and Accessories for Embroidery and Textile Embellishment - Made in Europe

GUNOLD GmbH · Obernburger Str. 125 · 63811 Stockstadt/Germany Tel.: +49 (0) 6027 2008-0 · email: [email protected] · www.gunold.de

G_AZ ZOOM_25x33.indd 1 28.10.16 00:40

Unbenannt-2 1 14.07.17 11:17 research Photo: Pixabay Photo:

Danger for maritime fauna: washed- up nets and ropes that are decomposed by the sun and then return to the sea. An IGF project at STFI Chemnitz is researching possible microplastic emissions from technical textiles

IGF – Springboard for innovation Pre-competitive opportunities for textile industry SMEs

Very few SMEs have any idea high degree of practical rele- 3,200 projects and 4,500 ab- what the abbreviation IGF vance: the data records from re- stracts. And yet very few textile means. There is an undoubted search reports over the last two companies have ever made use paradox here, given that Indus- decades. Alongside IGF topics of them, says FKT Director Dr trial Collective Research – IGF in and research findings funded by Klaus Jansen when asked. In his German, and managed by the the Federal Ministry of Educa- opinion, the database available German Federation of Industrial tion and Research (BMBF), to members is a goldmine for Research Associations (AiF) – convert new research solutions these are primarily ZIM projects product developers. Four exam- has for many years been provid- into practical products and tech- and studies funded by individu- ples - All that’s missing are the ing innovative stimuli for devel- nologies. New sales opportuni- al German states, as well as by miners... opments in products, processes ties rich in competitive advan- the German Research Council [www.textilforschung.de] and services through research tage beckon, however, for those (DFG) and the EU – a total of [Hans-Werner Oertel] projects initiated for the most who decide to follow this path, part by industry. as the example of carbon-rein- It often takes six, eight or even forced concrete shows. twelve years, however, before At present 120 projects are in application-orientated theoreti- progress and several dozen are cal results produced by the 15 added every year. As the IGF- textile institutes are turned into coordinating textile research as- marketable innovations. The sociation, the Research Adviso- reason for this is that an industry ry Board (Forschungskuratori- interested in a particular finding um or FKT) has a password-pro- still has to invest its own exper- tected key available for textile tise, as well as time and money companies and associations. Photo: FKT

(perhaps through follow-on This opens the door to a treas- New FKT program database with thousands of pieces of valuable information for textile funding instruments), in order to ure-chest of knowledge with a developers

18 textile network | 9-10/2017 IGF preliminary research to protect textiles from counterfeiting: sequencing spool with coding made visible in the yarn Curtains with a colour-variable mechanism Businesses producing home textiles such as curtains in the Sensor yarns future or developing interior design concepts should keep ‘Sequence functionalisation’ an eye on a current IGF topic at the Thuringian Institute of is the key term in the anti- Textile and Plastics Research (TITK). The project concerns colour-variable curtains based on polylactic acid fibres counterfeiting protection of DITF Photo: high-value textile products with special dyes. The material is designed to react like a from popular fashion brands and beyond. A process developed at switch to sunlight falling on it, triggering a colour change the Institute of Textile Technology and Process Engineering (ITV) at the window to provide protection from light and heat. in Denkendorf, now ready to be put into practice, provides yarns Polylactic acids (PLAs) have already proved valuable as su- with a unique ‘fingerprint’ that proves their brand identity. “There ture materials for medicine, in food packaging, as mulch is enormous interest in such anti-counterfeiting identification of sheets and in 3D printing, so why not also as adaptive bio- original products, from manufacturers across a vast range of busi- yarns for curtains and blinds? ness areas but especially from those in technical textiles with high In the ‘Chromogenic PLA yarns’ project, the intention is to safety requirements,” says Christoph Riethmüller, Head of Tech- process the biopolymer material into functional multi-fila- nology Integration at ITV, describing the application-orientated ment yarns that, combined with photochromically and research approach. thermochromically switchable dyes, can manage the hea- In these newly developed sensor yarns, similarly developed ting and air conditioning in buildings or vehicles. through the IGF process, the sensory properties are generated by In addition to the use of these innovative means of special sequencing spools using chemical functionalisa- yarns for sun protection, potential appli- tion. In a similar way, improved security features – containing a cations are emerging in the field of crea- great depth of information and precision, and invisible to the hu- tive design and architecture, in the man eye – can be introduced into conventional yarns. They can be market for workwear and protective regarded as an “invisible barcode”, explains Riethmüller. All sorts clothing, innovative sports and out- of data can be obtained from such yarns – date, article number, door activity textiles and in the health machine designation and so on. Individual sequences for this in- and medical sector. formation can be freely selected, can be altered daily or hourly

and can encompass countless variations, so that even the smallest Photo: TITK batches can be securely identified.

Bioplastic as a matrix polymer for switchable yarns: TITK employee with multifil- Revolution in industrial laundries ament strand at a melt-spin- A revolution is foreshadowed in industrial laundries: cleaning ning system with the aid of shockwaves at energy-efficient temperatures of 20 degrees Celsius, suitable for difficult business garments and for outerwear in care and nursing homes. At present, Steel carpeting – non-slip both of these often have to be cleaned using organic solvents and soft: new floor cover- Photo: TFI or in alternative wet-clean processes with washing tempera- ing made of steel fibres tures of up to 40 degrees, which can leave germs and residual Carpet of steel dirt such as traces of sweat in the clothing. As a result, costly Textile researchers at the Textile and Flooring Institute (TFI) in Aa- finishing processes are often necessary. chen literally have their feet firmly on the ground, even when ma- A particular characteristic of the innovative cleaning process king floor coverings of aramid, glass or polyester fibres or propo- that has emerged from an IGF project at the wfk-Cleaning sing their latest product development: 3D textiles made using Technology Institute is that high-quality outerwear can be steel or basalt yarns. With properties far removed from those of cleaned using pulses of compressed air, with the addition of sharp-edged steel wool pan-scourers, their metallic 3D floor-co- liquid laundry detergent where necessary but entirely without vering, made from steel wool mesh and stitched into a base mate- the use of organic solvents. At the heart of this innovative so- rial using the tufting process, has a pleasant feel as well as a solid lution is a washing machine fitted with shock wave genera- appearance. “The steel carpeting we have developed with IGF re- tors and a moving drum mounted at an angle. According to sources is anti-static and would be non-combustible if future re- the Institute, the techno- search were successful in producing the prefabricated base mate- logy and process have al- rial from a similar material,” says Development Engineer Dirk Ha- ready aroused interest nuschik. from washing technology Photo: wfk The expert engineer sees new possibilities for exploiting such companies in Europe and pressure-resistant, non-slip textiles, and thus new marketing op- beyond. portunities for manufacturers: tufted steel and basalt matting could find applications as strong dust filters that can be easily cleaned by brushing or shaking, or as high temperature-resistant heat insulation. Other combinations of materials could be used as separation matting beneath roof planting, or to reinforce embank- wfk employee Dr Robert Ossig ments. demonstrates the novel cleaning technology 9-10/2017 | textile network 19 special: leather

131 years ”Gerecke Leder” Using sustainable tanning Photo: Gerecke Leder GmbH & Co. processes What was once a tawery, founded in 1886 by Martin Christian Gerecke, the son of master tanner Martin Gerecke, is today a modern leather factory with a diverse product range located in Esslingen, in the south German state of Baden-Württemberg. Now in its 4th generation, the company continues its successful progress under the management of Gunther Gerecke, following the time-honoured dictum, “Gerecke – always testing the waters.”

This is true at many levels, not least down by the Reich Ministry for the When the business was expanding given that Gerecke’s site lies, as it Economy and the loss of potential in 1925, environmental considera- always has, on the banks of the American customers caused by Black tions were already firmly anchored Neckar river. At the same time, the Friday, are part of family and com- in the company philosophy with the family’s long chronicle reflects clear- pany history at Gerecke Leder GmbH building of the first wastewater ly both the high points of the once & Co. Alongside the fresh starts that treatment plant. Production ran at strong German tanning industry and these required, the company has al- full tilt with a staff of 70 to meet the its decline. Setbacks due to political Cattle provide genuine so had to master ever-increasing en- flood of orders. The global ramifica- turmoil, including a temporary shut- leather vironmental regulation and massive tions of the Wall Street stockmarket technical changes such as new tan- crash, however, brought the golden ning and dyeing technologies. age of international industrial growth to a sudden halt. In Germa- Nothing works without water ny, many tanneries had to close, as During the Weimar Republic (1918 their export markets had collapsed. to 1933), the production of leather Leathermaking families with certifi- for glovemaking using classic ta- cates showing that they had been wing processes became a major fo- practising their craft for several cus. The strong demand for branded hundred years saw no future in tur- high-quality goods abroad, espe- ning skins into leather. cially in the US, grew disproportio- nately, leading to the establishment Competence as capital of many more tanneries on the Ne- Retaining a sense of proportion, Ge-

Photo: pixabay ckar. recke managed to overcome this 

20 textile network | 9-10/2017 Leather hide logo contained in Thinly edged leather hide – Heavily edged – Take care: this ‘Genuine leather’ The German Leather para. 10 of the Consumer Goods unlicensed protected! mark is protected! Federation (VDL) Regulations for Shoes

LEATHER Use of ‘Genuine leather’ symbol requires a licence

The ‘Genuine leather’ symbol nies. The reason given was “in- forward as an economic force were able to have the mark pro- introduced in 1973 has gained fringement of trademark pro- represented by trade associa- tected in their own country and high awareness levels in the tection rights”. What had hap- tions – such as the German to market it accordingly. Only trade and among consumers in pened? In the 1970s, the appeal Leather Federation (VDL) – in the Italian association UNIC ac- Europe and America. The sym- of leather was booming, as was every European country. In tually registered the symbol as bol has been in active use since the variety of different labels. 1973, 17 European tanning in- a trademark. The consequence then, as it guarantees that the Synthetics with a leather-like dustry associations, including of this is that UNIC is the sole most important elements of the appearance also flooded onto the VDL, came together in an proprietor of the rights to the article consist of genuine leath- the market, many of them bear- international leathermaking as- brand in Italy and Europe. The er as defined in the relevant la- ing labels that symbolised a sociation, the International VDL is recommending that Ger- belling regulations. similarity to leather. Consumers Council of Tanners (ICT), to es- man shoe manufacturers use Back in 2008/2009, there was a found it more and more difficult tablish the ‘Genuine leather’ the leather hide logo contained great deal of perplexity be- to distinguish between genuine symbol. The aim was finally to in para. 10 of the Consumer cause Italian customs authori- and fake leather. The strong de- introduce a common interna- Goods Regulations for Shoes: a ties were regularly confiscating mand for leather caused a blos- tional mark. That mark was thinly edged and slightly dis- consignments of shoes, includ- soming of the European tan- adopted by the European Con- torted hide shape. ing those from German compa- ning industry, which put itself federation of Tanners. Members [Sonja Langer-Korsch]

creora® Fresh odor neutralizing elastane for fresh feeling.

creora® lasting elastane for run resistant performance.

www.creora.com creora® is registered trade mark of the Hyosung Corporation for its brand of premium spandex. special: leather Photo: Cruse

 slump; in 1932 the company was re- rebirth, with the aim of rekindling Cruse – S/S 2018 plant in order to handle the increa- structured and contact with its pre- once again the old business contacts singly meticulous colour requests of viously successful export markets and generating new customers its customers. By 1956/57 the back- re-established. Its accustomed pro- through the outstanding quality of log of demand for gloves had le- duction targets were once again its leather. velled off; companies were strugg- reached and Gerecke rose to be- Export demand proved exceptio- ling with over-capacity and bank- come the largest tawery in Würt- nally positive, whilst at the same ruptcies followed. The prospect of temberg. This visible success, howe- time there was pent-up demand in the imminent collapse of the Ger- ver, did not protect it from forced post-war Germany too. In record man glove industry drove Gerecke closure on political grounds, a fate time Gerecke was producing up to to establish itself in new markets. It that befell other tanneries who then 60,000 goat-kid hides a month. The succeeded, for example, in supply- gave up their craft for good. favourable competitive environment ing Gerecke leather to glove produ- Then after the end of the war in had the effect of attracting tanning cers in Italy, France, Belgium, Israel 1945, with no capital and devalued businesses from the Sudetenland to and the Philippines. Sixty percent of cash reserves, the company under- resettle on the Neckar. In 1950/51, its turnover came from exports. went a new, difficult and laborious Gerecke set up a modern dyeing Flexible adaptation to the market Tawing Steadily increasing production The smallest lamb and kid hides are used in processing. The tanning solu- costs in Germany and the asso- tion contained in the tanning drum is made to a demanding, carefully ciated price rises for leather tested recipe, combining alum, sodium chloride (table salt), egg yolk, led to a sharp drop in de- wheat flour, olive oil or cottonseed oil, synthetic tanning agents and mand from the USA, which water. In rapidly rotating containers, in a few short hours the skins had hitherto been the lar- are transformed into glacé leather by this tanning bath. After this, gest market for gloves; as they undergo different finishing processes depending on the use for a result, very many glove which they are ultimately destined. producers went out of busi- Glacé leather is rarely if ever produced nowadays and has become an ness. expensive rarity. The classic, and thus highest quality and most ex- By means of innovations pensive, glove leather is distinguished by a particular softness and and flexibility, however, suppleness. It fits snugly and smoothly round the hand and fingers Gerecke managed to re- and is just permeable enough to ensure that the hand does not be- duce drastically its traditi- come sweaty. But of course, quality has its price! onal dependence on glove

Photo: Werner Christ Werner Photo: leather and to switch its

22 textile network | 9-10/2017 Read more about leather on www.textile-network.com

production capacity to leather for and riding). One particular speciality the utmost skill in tanning and not products such as clothing and shoes. is washable and dry-cleanable lamb least the resilience to overcome cri- This meant new customers, and dif- nappa leather that can readily be ses have been and continue to be ferent markets. combined with textiles. The strict the major capital that has shaped quality criteria demanded by public the Gerecke family business for ge- Leather, a brand from nature authorities and the military are met nerations. In the leather industry, The tanning expertise gathered by with goat nappa leather for gloves Germany continues to be a pionee- Gerecke over the generations is still and shoes. ring market. Since exports have al- employed today in top quality hide A highlight of the product range is ways been a powerful force for Ge- processing. Surviving in an expensi- the smooth leather of the North recke leather, they are regarded as ve location such as Germany de- American white-tailed deer. All co- an integral element of growth and pends solely on the ability to supply lours can be supplied, with maxi- of the future. Meeting all of the the highest level of quality, with no mum authenticity: azo dyes are not quality criteria that underlie the compromises. used. Top of the range raw hides high demands of the global market All of the demands of strict environ- are processed into soft aniline lea- is a sine qua non for the company mental protection legislation are Werner Christ: thers in brilliant, expressive co- and an inherited company philoso- met, requiring a high level of invest- S/S 2018 lours. A love of the natural product, phy.  ment. Since leather production requires large quantities of water, responsible use of this resource is very important. All waste water produced is purified in the company’s own wastewater treatment plant. Pollu- tants are filtered out of the waste water by chemical as well as mechanical means. In recent years, various process modifications have signifi- cantly reduced water consumption. The in-house treatment plant meets all of the waste water regulations, including for example the limit of 1 mg of chromium per litre. A separa- te storage facility for water-pollu- ting substances is available. Hides from small animals, deer and even peccary are prepared by 15 well trained staff for shoes, clothing and gloves (for use in motorsport Christ Werner Photo:

ULTIMATIVER FOTODRUCK Sublimationstransfer mit Sihl Sublicolor

Sihl Sublicolor Papiere liefern im Dye-Sublimation-Verfahren einzigartige Bilder mit außergewöhnlicher Leuchtkraft und satten Farben.

Egal ob auf Textilien oder auch auf Metall, Holz und Keramik, die Transfer- ergebnisse faszinieren mit eindrucksvoller Brillanz und einer erstaunlichen räumlichen Wirkung.

www.sihl.com SIHL SUBLICOLOR

9-10/2017 | textile network 23 special: leather Milestone – S/S 2018

 Environmental protection as a which also contributes to the safety quality commitment of employees and the environment. It is essential to maintain and stea- All of the products employed meet dily improve sustainable environ- REACH requirements. In Germany, mental protection. This includes the tanning industry has shrunk so purchasing all of the tanning agents, that in 2017 there are no more than dyes, fats etc. only from certified about 20 tanneries. All of these chemical companies which, for their meet German statutory standards. part, take care to ensure that Since environmental protection, so- their production is environmentally cial responsibility and protection of Photo: Milestone friendly and sparing in its use of re- workers do not come free, leather have found a successful market ni- sources. Cheap and questionable produced in Germany does carry che on the large global market. Ger- products are never used. All chemi- certain costs. The small but perfectly man leather is thus a statement of cals are stored according to strict formed leather industry in Germany environmental protection. German and European standards, offers only top quality leathers that [Sonja Langer-Korsch]

What is leather exactly?

The term ‘leather’ is in a constant ness activities of the German Leather leather, silk leather, Achilles lea- state of flux, to the confusion of Federation (VDL). ther and so on. consumers. The unique characteris- In March, in the course of a meeting The VDL is chasing down these ab- tic of leather comes from its very of VDL members, its Director, Dr uses. In the past three years alone, nature, which cannot be copied. Schröer, explained that safeguarding over 300 cease-and-desist notices This, however, has never deterred and representing the economic inte- have been issued and enforced by creative spirits from bringing new rests of the leather-producing indust- penalties and more than 40 interim products onto the market in the ho- ry was a key activity of the Federati- orders made against renegade pe of swimming on the tide of on. This includes preventing the anti- companies. Thirty contractual pe- leather’s success. Test-tube materi- competitive and misleading use of nalties have been imposed, at the als with a velour or nappa appea- the term ‘leather’ for less expensive expense of the offending parties. rance have been offered as ‘silky materials that do not consist of tan- Regrettably, only in Germany do le- leather’ or ‘lamb’s-touch leather’. ned animal hides and do not meet the gally watertight regulations exist Materials made from various natu- EN 15987 standard. regarding the correct use of the ral fibres have been advertised as It is not only in Germany that the de- term ‘leather’. Efforts to achieve EU ‘pineapple leather’, ‘vegan leather’ liberately misleading use of the terms regulation such as that in the area and so on. ‘leather’ and ‘genuine leather’ has of shoes, which would regulate bey- Leather for clothing is not subject to reached epidemic proportions in re- ond doubt the misuse of the term any statutory labelling require- cent years, which the VDL regards as ‘leather’ for all types of product, ha- ments. Where leather clothing is a major contravention of the law ve so far been without success. marked as being of a certain materi- against unfair competition. In Germany, the legal basis is the al, however, the labelling must not There are no limits to the fantastical DIN EN 15987 standard, Leather be incorrect (such as calling pig ve- ways in which materials consisting Terminology: Main Definitions for lour ‘suede’) or misleading to the predominantly of synthetic substan- the Leather Trade, along with the customer (e.g. upselling pig split le- ces are talked up. Popular terms in- RAL standards (www.beuth.de) ather by calling it ‘silk leather’). This clude textile leather, PU leather, out- No animal (with the that are protected as registered means that even in the case of vo- door leather, soft leather, nubuck-ty- exception of luxury quality marks. fur) is slaughtered luntary marking, the statutory regu- pe leather, eco-leather, Napalon, pi- for its hide, but for RAL 060 A 2: Definition of the term lations regarding material labelling lots’ leather, vegan leather, pineapple its meat! ‘leather’ in contrast to other mate- must be observed. rials, and labelling regulations There are, however, quite clear ru- RAL 062 B: Labelling regulations les regarding labelling and contra- for clothing leather and leather vention of these or the use of mis- clothes leading variations will lead to war- [www.beuth.de] ning action; this is one of the busi- [Sonja Langer-Korsch]

24 textile network | 9-10/2017 filo48_twist_output.pdf 1 12/06/17 11:45

CMY

K technical textiles Photo: fotolia

China A rapid growth of the nonwovens industry Owing to the global and huge domestic market demand and technological advancement, China’s nonwovens industry has experienced rapid growth in recent years. In 2001, production was only 569,000 tons, reaching 5.35m tons by 2016 with an average annual growth of 16 percent. From 2000 to 2016, China saw exports for nonwovens climb from USD 94m to USD 2.52bn, an average annual growth of 22.8 percent.

China has thus doubtlessly become Forum (CINE), supported by Techtex- the world’s largest producer, con- til, was successfully held in June 21- In conclusion, China has a complete nonwo- sumer and trading country of non- 23, 2017 in Shanghai. ven industry and the world’s largest produc- wovens. Technical and industrial The exhibition featured some 100 tion capacities to support and meet the rapid growth of this industry, both worldwide and on textiles have benefitted from Chi- exhibitors specialising in nonwo- its huge domestic market. Scientific and technolo- na’s 13th Five-Year Plan which vens and some 3,977 trade buyers gical innovations and intelligent manufacturing greatly supports technology and in- from 16 countries and regions came will accelerate the pace of industrial upgrading novation. The plan’s focus on indus- to see the latest developments in and improve the core competitiveness of China’s trial upgrading has led to a marked nonwoven products. The 6th edition manufacturing. The “Going Out” strategy will increase in the production capacity of China International Nonwovens broaden its market base and development. and demand for nonwovens. Output Conference (CINC) was held on the is estimated to reach 7 million tons second day. by 2020, up from 5.35m tons in Speeches relating to the topic “The painted a comprehensive picture of 2016. The rise is being fuelled by current situation and trends on the the nonwovens industry and trade many areas such as construction Chinese and global nonwovens mar- both worldwide and in China. Some and infrastructure, environmental kets“ were delivered by Li Lingshen, highlights of the presentation given protection, health and care of the el- President of CNITA, Andreas Engel- by Li Lingshen: derly, first aid, public safety and mil- hardt, General Manager of the The In 2016, China’s output of nonwo- itary-civilian integration. The China Fiber Year GmbH and Andre Micha- vens reached 5.354m tons, with a International Nonwovens Expo and lon, Sales Director of Andritz who growth of 10.4%, accounting for more than 40% of global produc- The China Internatio- nal Nonwovens Expo tion. Compared with 2012, output and Forum (CINE) was increased by 55.7%, corresponding held in June 21 to 23, 2017 in Shanghai to an average annual growth of 11.7%. The key producers are located in the provinces of Shandong, Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Hubei and Fujian, with Shandong and Hubei being the fastest growing. They account for 67% of China’s total production. Exports of Chinese-made nonwovens totalled 0.821m tons in 2016, or US$2.52bn, an increase of 12.25% and 1.49% respectively. Imports amounted to 0.13m tons worth US$

Photo: fotolia 817m, a decrease of 5.71% and

26 textile network | 9-10/2017 Owing to the global and huge domestic market demand and technological advancement, China’s nonwovens industry has experienced rapid growth in recent years

Photo: fotolia In 2016, there were about 1,000 companies specialising in high-quality nonwovens. The “Top 10“ enterprises of China’s nonwovens are namely Kingsafe, Huafon Microfiber, Dalian Ruiguang, Jinjiang Xintai, Tiandingfeng, Sinoma Science & Technology, Shandong Taipeng, Hangzhou 4.57% respectively. Howe- and S. Korea were below the ave- Nbond, Foshan Nanhai Beautiful, and Anhui Jin- ver, in the first quarter of rage export prices. Exports to the chun (Golden Spring). Their product applications 2017, exports and im- Philippines and Mexico have main- include medical and health, geotechnical and con- ports climbed 15.53% tained rapid growth while Vietnam struction, filtration and separation, and micro- and 4.65% respec- is the biggest importer among the fibres. In these areas, they are competitive in the tively. The export price developing countries. As the econo- global arena. On average, these top 10 enterpri- of Chinese-made non- mic growth of developing countries ses each employs 688 workers who produce wovens is still low com- continues to gain momentum, they 35,000 tons of nonwovens, yielding Rmb 1.0bn in pared to developed will become important export mar- revenues and an 8.7% profit, whilst investing countries as China mainly kets for Chinese nonwovens in 3.21% in R&D. produces staple-fibre non- the future. China witnessed some wovens while the higher priced pro- technical innovations in nonwovens ducts are generally spunbonded. such as high strength coarse denier At the forum Li Ling- a long way to go in terms of indust- shen, President of In 2016, China exported 1.8bn units PP spunbonded & needle-punch CNITA, Andreas Engel- rial transformation and upgrading. of nonwoven apparel, consuming geotextiles, PET spunbonded non- hardt, General Mana- Plans for its future development, as about 200,000 tons. Exports of nap- wovens, bicomponent spunbonded ger of the The Fiber Ye- set down in the 13th Five-Year Plan, ar GmbH and Andre pies and sanitary napkins reached spunlace microfibres, and wide- Michalon, Sales Direc- will focus on greater technical inno- 445,000 tons, consuming about width high efficiency digital spun- tor of Andritz gave a vation, the creation of a complete comprehensive picture 180,000 tons of nonwovens. Ex- lace production lines. of the nonwovens in- supply chain for nonwovens with a ports of nonwoven wipes, medical China’s nonwovens industry still has dustry and trade focus on high-value products, intelli- masks, medical single hole and filter gent manufacturing, improved soci- media amounted to about 200,000 ally responsibility, and the adoption tons. Annual exports of 1.4m tons of a “Going Out” strategy to further represented 26% of total produc- penetrate the ASEAN and Asian tion. countries, the Americas, Europe and The key export markets for nonwo- Africa. vens in 2016 were Japan, S. Korea, Looking forward, China’s nonwo- USA, Vietnam, Philippines, India, In- vens industry will continue to main- donesia, Hong Kong and Mexico. tain rapid growth and play a more Most posted an increase with the significant role in the global nonwo- exception of the USA, India, and vens industry.

Hong Kong. Exports to Japan, USA Photo: Vicky Sung [Vicky Sung] COMPOSITES EUROPE 12. Europäische Fachmesse und Forum für Verbundwerkstoffe, Technologie und Anwendung

19. – 21. September 2017 Messe Stuttgart www.composites-europe.com The global wind technical textiles energy industry is on the ascendant

Composites Europe 2017 Photos: Composites Europe Windenergy in the focus

By staging the Focus Day on 19 September, along with various special areas and programme Wind energy expert Dr. Alexander highlights, Composites Europe Krimmer, lecturer provides the wind energy sec- at the Institute of Aeronautics and tor with its very own platform. Astronautics at the Wind energy expert Dr. Alexan- TU Berlin der Krimmer, a lecturer at the Institute of Aeronautics and energy sector on fibre-rein- Astronautics at the Technical forced plastics, showcasing the University of Berlin, comments: latest trends in machinery and “CFPs are still controversial in production processes. The main this field. Their application is highlight, however, will be the worthwhile where longer rotor first day of the fair, when spe- Composites Europe 2017: Hybrid lightweight construction drives innovation blades are required which gen- cialists, buyers and scientists erate far greater yields.” To en- meet with experts from the Multi-material systems and hy- the emphasis will be on the able wind turbines to produce a composites industry for the brid components are setting building and construction trade rated output even in low winds, Wind Focus Day under the the trends in lightweight con- and on wind energy. Each of slender and extremely long ro- heading “Wind meets Compos- struction. Composites Europe those three topics will be re- tor blades need to be devel- ites”. will show from 19.-21. Septem- flected with its own “Focus oped. Such blades can only be Composites Europe, since 2006 ber 2017 how this is benefiting Day” and a dedicated “Innova- produced with sufficient rigidi- one of the most successful in- composites. Some 400 exhibition Area”. In several applica- ty using CFPs. Appearing at dustry trade fairs in Europe, is tors will put on display the po- tion-focussed modules, experts Composites Europe, industry to take place in Stuttgart every tential of fibre-reinforced com- will present their real-world ex- specialists such as Gaugler & year from 2017. posites in the automotive engi- periences with issues revolving Lutz, Saertex, Hexion, Gunnar More information about the neering, aerospace, boatbuild- around material composites in International, Gurit and Ten highlights at the Composites ing, wind energy and the automotive, aerospace and Cate are successfully respond- Europe on textile-network.com construction sectors. The focus architecture segments. Also on ing to the demands of the wind [www.composites-europe.com] of the trade fair, numerous the agenda will be cross-indus- event areas, presentation fo- try thematic blocks emphasis- rums and workshops will be on ing manufacturing and produc- lightweight construction, mul- tion technologies such as the The global wind energy industry is on the ascendant. Fore- ti-material design and resource joining and combining of differ- casts by the Global Wind Energy Council (GWEC) expect the efficiency. Featuring new spe- ent materials. global output of wind energy to increase by around 64 per- cial areas, forums and theme cent by 2021. The greatest growths are currently being wit- days, Composites Europe will Focus Day Wind Energy nessed in Denmark (40 percent), followed by Uruguay, Por- be aimed even more strongly at Wind energy certainly ranks tugal and Ireland, each well above 20 percent. Growth in user industries this year. Be- among the big growth markets Germany is currently around 16 percent. sides automotive engineering, for Carbon Fibre Plastics (CFP).

28 textile network | 9-10/2017 home textiles

Guimaraes Home Fashion Week Home textiles made in Portugal

On 27 and 28 June 2017, the Fashion Week, which took region of 96m Euro. Texteis EUR 5m. Exporting 90 percent second Guimaraes Home Fash- place last year, visitors had the Peneda, Mascolotes, has been of its output, the company

Composites Europe 2017 Photos: Composites Europe ion Week took place in north- opportunity to tour the actual specialising in high-quality jac- works for many well-known ern Portugal, the center of the companies and to gain an ap- quards – bed linen, bedspreads, names in Germany and Hol- textile industry. preciation of their production blankets and bathroom textiles land, as well as in Spain, the The imposing former monas- set-ups and the state-of-the-art both for private consumption UK and many more. In keeping Windenergy in the focus tery of Pousada de Guimaraes machinery in use. This was per- and hospitality – since 1975. with the majority of Portuguese once again hosted the Guima- ceived as a win-win situation, With a workforce of 96 staff, firms in this industry, the Heim- raes Home Fashion Week which with both buyers and manufac- the company posts 12m Euro in textil trade fair in Frankfurt attracted 32 leading Portu- turers expressing their satisfac- annual sales. Its size and con- is considered a must-attend guese home textiles manufac- tion with the discussions they stant investments in modern event. turers showcasing a total of 37 had held. weaving machinery allow the Advertisement labels. The organisers revealed: One of the major players in the company to operate with a “We were expecting around Portuguese home textiles mar- high degree of flexibility and to 100 visitors but we actually ket is the More Textile Group respond to customer wishes in- counted 147 international buy- which was created in 2011 dividually. ers.“ The attendees travelled to from a merger between four Moreover, two creative minds Portugal not only from Europe companies: Antonio de Almei- are constantly working on new but also from overseas, all the da & Filhos, Coelima and Terra- designs that can be implement- way from Australia, New Zea- fil, which are based in Guima- ed quickly and efficiently. The land, South Africa, Chile, South raes, and JMA, which is head- in-house brand is known as Korea, Japan, Russia, Poland, quartered in Santo Tirso. A Macal by TP and is synonymous Canada, USA, China, Domini- successful move that has cata- with sophisticated jacquard www.adf3.stoll.com can Republic, Switzerland, Bul- pulted all four enterprises into covers, bedspreads and valanc- garia, Turkey, Croatia and a stronger market position, not es. Azerbaijan. The visitors were only as producers of high-qual- Fateba – Narciso Pereira The next Guimaraes Home visibly impressed by the crea- ity bed linen and bathroom tex- Mendes Herdeiro in Guimaraes Fashion Week is scheduled to tivity and quality of the prod- tiles, but also as a full-range is a small luxury supplier of run from 26 to 27 June 2018 ucts on show, comprising table supplier, achieved through the high-quality table and kitchen and will once again be hosted and bed linen, bathroom tex- inclusion in the merger of yarn linen. The family-run business at the Pousada de Guimaraes. tiles, throws and bedspreads. producer Terrafil. The Group employs 100 staff and records [www.homefromportugal.org] As at the first Guimaraes Home currently generates sales in the annual sales in the region of [Ilona Schulz]

High-quality jacquards are a Impressive venue – the im- speciality of Portugal’s home posing Pousada de Guima- textiles suppliers raes in Portugal Photos: Guimaraes Home Fashion Week

The More Textile Group created a beautiful display at the Pousada

9-10/2017 | textile network 29 home textiles

25th Proposte in Cernobbio The joys of a beautiful home

25 years have passed since [1] Proposte celebrated its debut in Cernobbio. To this day, the event has remained true to its high standards and loyal to its venue! It opened its doors for the first time on 4 May 1993, after a handful of local fabric manufacturers near Como decided to take their destiny into their own hands. Their ambition was to show their high-quality and extraordinary upholstery and curtain fabrics to a wider international audience. And this remains the case even today. A quarter of a century later, 13 of the original exhibitors were still taking part in the fair which ran this year from 3 to 5 May. For the past ten years, the exhibition halls have been bursting at the seams, leading to the creation of Fuori Proposte, a coun- Photos: Proposte

terpart to the furniture fair in which innovations are likely to A conversation with Mario Sirtori, owner of Milan, which is not, however, captivate their customers in the Mario Sirtori Spa, Costamasnaga (Lecco), staged by the trade fair organ- coming year. As in previous founded in 1955. He started up with five iser. Ever since the start, Luilor, years, the 25th Proposte weaving looms, financed through the bank. based in Montemurlo (Prato), was spread over three days. On Today, the company employs 110 staff and is Tuscany, has been exhibiting in the first day, the stands of the still in family ownership. a villa in Cernobbio that is nor- 89 exhibitors were inundated textile network: Mr Sirtori, you are one of the founding mally used as a nursery school. with visitors. “We were barely fathers of Proposte. Why did you push for this event to take Proposte, which translates as able to come up for air,” con- place? What was your objective? “proposals”, has become a cluded one exhibitor, echoing Mario Sirtori: The three trade fairs that existed for our in- firmly established part of the lu- the mood of the majority. The dustry at the time had no ambitions to grow. We weren’t xury segment, always keeping number of trade buyers roughly looking to make a big profit but simply wanted to show our its finger on the pulse. During matched last year’s totals, up products. the fair, entrepreneurs meet 0.55 percent, with fewer buyers other entrepreneurs and compa- coming from Italy. This slide textile network: What gives Prosposte is unique charm? ny owners attend to their own was countered by a climb in the Mario Sirtori: That’s easy to answer given that Villa Erba stands. Forging new contacts number of German, Chinese, is at the heart of Proposte. It’s a wonderful exhibition ve- with customers, whilst proudly American, Russian, Australian nue, on the shores of Lake Como and with the old villa at presenting their latest collec- and Spanish buyers, with the its centre. And, of course, the fact that the exhibitors are all tions of upholstery and curtain proportion of foreign trade buy- manufacturers. fabrics, they listen to the ers settling at 70 percent. “As market’s needs and ascertain early as January, we could al-

30 textile network | 9-10/2017 Daniel and fashion Markus Freitag Photo: Roland Tännler Roland Photo:

once they reached the end of their life cycle, we went in search of natural and renewa- ble raw materials that are available in our part of the world. This is why we chose the crop ready sense that the tide was plants linen and hemp, which turning,” explained President thrive along the Atlantic coast, of Proposte Mauro Cavelli. The can grow with very little water market, particularly in the USA, and few fertilisers and Russia and China, is becoming whose bast has been more dynamic again. used to produce textile Tests in Hohenstein have revealed that Proposte is synonymous with ex- the textiles are almost completely de- fibres for many years. quisite upholstery and curtain fa- composed within six months We also use Modal for brics. Taken together, its 89 ex- the more lightweight hibitors post total sales of FREITAG fabrics – which is 1,075m Euro, 60 percent of Compostable clothing made from native which is accounted for by ex- beechwood in Austria. ports. Around four fifths of the Back in 1993, graphic design- and in fair We found a weaving fabrics sold at Proposte are used ers Daniel and Markus Freitag working con- mill in Lombardy which as decorative fabrics. The con- decided to breathe new life ditions and we can produce our trou- Photo: Hohenstein tract segment, including hotels, into discarded lorry tarpaulins also wanted them to ser fabric in line with restaurants, offices and cruise by creating unique weather- be suitable not only for factory our specifications, and our ships, is noticeably gaining proof bags for individualists use but also for wearing to the clothing is made up in Poland. ground. This added momentum in the urban jungle. This pub for that ‘swift one’ after The whole process took five is also being reflected in the coll- brainwave clearly struck a work. Once they’re worn out, years from the initial idea to fi- ections. Pastels are widespread chord with the market. In we wanted to be able to throw nally delivering the first finished with colour remaining a decisive 2014, they started to branch them on the compost heap with garments – this included the en- factor in determining a into textile products. Why? a clear conscience, knowing durance testing for our shirts collection’s success. Natural ma- Let’s find out: that they would break down and trousers in our own factory terials are in ever greater de- "Can old items be reassigned without leaving any harmful and endless numbers of trials in mand. Elegance is tangible. to a new purpose in a com- residues behind. which we wore and tested the Proposte 2018 takes place from pletely different context? So that we could guarantee the garments ourselves.” 2 to 4 May at the Villa Erba What properties does a prod- bio-degradability of our textiles [www.textile-network.com] Exhibition Centre in Cernobbio / uct need to have so that it Italy. doesn’t leave behind any [Ingrid Sachsenmaier] harmful waste at the end of its USED MACHINERY FROM [www.propostefair.it] life cycle? We’ve always been fascinated by these questions. When we were looking for new workwear for our staff, we saw how sections of the Looking for used globalised textile industry treat resources, the environ- Circular Knitting machines??? ment and their staff. At this Please visit our website: point, we felt compelled to www.sotex.de take the issue of clothing into our own hands. We asked ourselves: Can we do this without wasting resources, without SOTEX-Textilmaschinen long transportation routes and R. Sorhagen Egertstraße 54 · D-72768 Reutlingen without the superfluous use of Phone: +49 171 5155852 · Fax: +49 7121 621229 chemicals? We wanted the E-Mail: [email protected] Impressions 25th Proposte Villa Erba, Cernobbio textiles to be made nearby

9-10/2017 | textile network 31 Reportfashion Photos: Takko Fashion

Caddon Digital colour management In the world of fashion, colour plays a particularly important role, not only in terms of the design but also the collection’s downstream production processes. The precise reproduction of the colours has a strong bearing on the quality of the final product. Thanks to the new technology from Caddon, it is now possible to share true-colour digital samples between departments and companies.

In need of a digital colour manage- dip samples of suppliers are record- fer a wide selection of collections ment system, textile company Takko ed and tested against the colour which makes it even more impor- Fashion opted for the innovative specifications before being ap- tant to get the colours right. In a multispectral systems from Caddon, proved. The digital measurement move to enhance quality and ap- saving plenty of time and money in values are subsequently shared with pearance whilst cutting production the process. partners and suppliers so that they times, we decided two years ago to The technology developed by the can dye and process textiles for Tak- opt for the digital colour manage- colour and printing expert measures ko Fashion with high levels of accu- ment system from Caddon.” the colours of fabrics multispectral- racy. ly. In contrast to conventional imag- “We see precision colour matching Centrepiece in Hong Kong ing data, each pixel is a spectral as a key discipline in the design, The complete Caddon solution is measurement value. The exact production and sale of our prod- known as color:communication measurements and the visual im- ucts,” says Melanie Richard, and comprises the can:scan impression come together to create an Head of Quality Management aging system, the can:view inseparable, non-manipulable unit. Takko Fashion. “After all, we of- viewer and the can:connect At the heart of the solution is the software. Takko Fashion in- can:scan imaging system, which vested in a can:scan imaging Takko Fashion uses at its facility in “We see precision colour system at its location in Hong Hong Kong. matching as a key discipli- Kong which multispectrally meas- This is where the digital colour sam- ne in the design, production and ures the colours and structures of ples are created for garments made sale of our products,” says Melanie Richard, textiles. These digital colour meas- Head of Quality Management Takko Fashion. of cotton, polyester, viscose and urements form the basis for chan- other materials and where the lab- nelling spectral values into the con-

32 textile network | 9-10/2017 Founded in 1982 under the name ”Modea” the Takko Holding GmbH, Telgte, Germany company is today a leading fashion retailer with 1,900 stores in 16 European countries, employing ap- proximately 18,000 staff. Since October 2011 the company is a member of the Fair Wear Foundation. The Fair Wear Founda- tion works with brands, factories, trade unions, NGOs and sometimes governments to verify and improve workplace conditions in 11 production countries in Asia, Europe and Africa. The FWF’s more than 80 member companies represent over 120 brands, and are based in Europe; member products are sold in over 20,000 retail outlets in more than 80 countries around the world. [www.fairwear.org] Photos: Takko Fashion

ventional data formats QTX (Data- color) and CXF (XRite). Takko Fashion can share this information with partners in different locations in real time. The digital process not only replaces the time-consuming task of sending and receiving physical samples but it also paves the way for the creation of a digital archive. In contrast to physi-

cal samples, digital samples never The digital specifica- age nor fade, nor do they require a tions form the founda- lot of storage space. “Thanks to tion for the production of more than 140 mil- can:scan we’re now in a position to lion garments sold by create around 90 percent of our Takko Fashion through its roughly 1,900 samples digitally. This enables us to stores across Europe establish clearly defined colour val- every year 

Unbenannt-3 1 01.08.17 15:21 fashion

 ues, even for materials with differ- roughly 1,900 stores across Europe greatly simplifies previously com- ent structures such as cotton, knits, every year. Covering the fashion plex and time-consuming colour jersey and viscose,” states Melanie needs of the modern family, Takko checks. Working in close coopera- Richard, Takko Fashion, continuing, Fashion offers womenswear, mens- tion with its colleagues in Hong “Every day, we use the digital refer- wear, children’s fashion and a large Kong, Takko Fashion coordinates ence colours to compare the colours selection of accessories. The compa- digital colour monitoring from Ger- of more than 8,000 orders which we ny, which is headquartered in Tel- many, from the first design right the can then make available to every- gte, Germany, employs nearly way through to placing the order one involved in the supply chain.” 18,000 staff around the world. Frie- with the supplier. The digital specifications form the drichsdorf, Germany, is home to “The digital process has replaced foundation for the production of Takko Fashion’s quality manage- the previously complicated proce- more than 140 million garments ment facility and also to the dure of matching colours manually sold by Takko Fashion through its can:view soft proofing system which with colour cards,” says Melanie Richard, Takko Fashion. “The manual procedure was extremely prone to Caddon – Colour management at its best errors because even well-trained Since 2008, Caddon has held a patent for an innovative colour measurement and ma- staff arrived at different conclusions, nagement system, manufacturing products that are revolutionising colour recognition! depending on the ambient light and Companies such as BMW, Takko Fashion and many others have been relying on the tolerances of the physical colour Caddon’s expertise and proven track record for many years. Thanks to this latest techno- cards. And then, of course, other logy, true-colour digital samples can be passed between departments and companies. factors such as defective vision or The Caddon system comprises four modules: The can:scan scanning device measures the fatigued eyes led to significant de- colours. The can:view viewer displays them optimally in different lighting conditions. viations which were impossible to The can:connect software brings the hardware components together and the can:change iron out retrospectively.” Photoshop plug-in permits the simple transfer of the calculated colour values.can:scan is the first system capable of measuring complex surfaces with intricate patterns and tex- “Too lemony” or “less fruity” tures, delivering true-colour digital samples within 55 seconds. The scanning device – a problem of the past photographs the object through 16 filters that only allow the passage of pre-defined wavelengths of light reflected by the object being measured. The software uses these Takko Fashion uses the Caddon sys- images to calculate the precise spectral measurement value of each individual pixel. tem to create a digital colour sam- Lighting conditions have an enormous impact on our perception of colour. The tone of a ple. The data format combines ob- garment, for example, will often look very different in daylight when compared to the jective and precise measurements neon lighting of a department store. This metameric behaviour is taken into account by with the visual impression, thus en- Caddon’s can:view viewer. The screen on the can:view system displays the digital ima- hancing the sampling process. Not ges perfectly. Multispectral images appear on the screen in true colour, i.e. identical to only are the data sets easier to share the pattern. The can:connect software controls the can:scan and can:view modules and but they also simplify colour com- allows the user to evaluate and compare the multispectral data sets and to compile cor- munication. In the past, requests for responding measurement protocols. alterations were relatively vague “Until now, there has been an ongoing conflict between visual impression, which is in- and always verbal: statements such dispensable for creative minds and designers, and spectral measurements that serve as as “too lemony” or “less fruity” proof that colours are being reproduced correctly in the production setting. This stems were usually too hazy to effect pre- from the problem that a spectral measurement renders only the physical remission value cise changes. The digital values, on of an individual colour, whilst ignoring human perception, i.e. the subjective impression the other hand, are clear and far of colours and the relationships between them in a design. Our technology reliably com- easier to modify. To arrive at an ex- bines the visual impression of colours with the spectral objec- act digital colour measurement, tivity of a non-manipulable image data set.” Michael Nothel- can:scan photographs an object fer, Managing Director of Caddon printing & imaging GmbH through 16 filters. Each filter only al- Read more in our online magazine. lows the passage of pre-defined wavelengths of light reflected by the object being measured. The software uses these images to calculate The can:view viewing system displays digital colour samples. the precise spectral measurement

Photo: Caddon Colour shades can be compared and errors quickly identified value of each individual pixel. This, by positioning the physical original on the screen for comparison with the digital image reproduction in turn, paves the way for Takko Fashion to create accurate samples

34 textile network | 9-10/2017 LECTRA Strategies for the digital future At the Fashion 4.0 Conference 2017 organised by Lectra in Bor- deaux-Cestas, the more than 100 participants were enlightened

Photo: Caddon about the future of the textile industry. The event delivered an even for textiles with complex pat- erated monitoring and coordinating Digital color communi- abundance of concise information cation at Takko terns or in small batches. processes, whilst cutting the cost of Fashion about the digital (fashion) world “Our technology enables digital col- courier services for all partners. Tak- whilst shedding light on impres- our measuring always under the ko Fashion also uses the Caddon sive innovations. Coordinated lec- same conditions and factors, largely software to enhance the reliability tures and presentations highlight- corresponding to the way humans of its colour communication system. ed the agility of the value chain, see, and allowing colours to be re- The can:connect application brings which will enable fashion compa- produced with the same precision together the can:scan and can:view nies to continue to be successful in time and again,” says Michael modules allowing Takko Fashion to the emerging digital market of the Nothelfer, Managing Director of evaluate and compare the multi- future. Be it innovative retail mod- Caddon printing & imaging GmbH, spectral data sets in different places els, insights into the generation of continuing: “We reliably combine at the same time and to create Millennials, or the benefits of a the visual impression of colours measurement protocols. It is, how- digital supply chain, each of the with the spectral measurement val- ever, also possible to carry out lectures provided solutions to ues in a non-manipulable image da- measurement proofing without a dealing with these challenges. ta set.” can:view system. Takko Fashion’s Lectra took the opportunity at the In contrast to spectrophotometry, media service provider uses the conference to present its new ver- can:scan compiles the digital sam- can:change software to retouch and sion of Fashion PLM 4.0. The mod- ples in a contactless process. In or- modify photos by measuring all the ular PLM solution is a networked, der to make a colour measurement, colour points on the digital sample intelligent switching centre for the spectrophotometry usually requires and transferring them to the photo digital supply chain – encompass- direct contact with the fabric or of the original. The logistical pro- ing everything from planning and cloth. This leads to inevitable chang- cesses and the cost of shipping the design to production. It ensures a es in the material structure, influ- physical samples for retouching pur- consistent flow of error-free data encing the measurement. This, in poses have consequently become an between processes, technologies turn, makes reproducible colour obstacle of the past. “Since intro- and people. It provides the agility measurements difficult to achieve. ducing color:communication, we’ve needed to adapt business models “Measurements are made pixel by been able to almost halve the num- flexibly and to react more quickly pixel, leading to true-colour digital ber of colour matching cycles with to trends. Read more about the samples, whose spectral format also our partners. The reduction in itera- event and the new PLM 4.0 at tex- takes into account the effects of tions (repetitions) and courier ser- tile-network.com. light and shade, metamerism and vices saves us an average of around [www.lectra.com] various light sources,” Michael two weeks,” states Melanie Rich- Nothelfer concludes. ard, Takko Fashion. “The digital colour management system is so Suppliers in Asia are also compelling that one of our partners involved in Bangladesh has already invested Lectra presented in Since the autumn of 2015, Takko in the Caddon systems after observ- Bordeaux-Cestas the Fashion has incorporated all its sup- ing the enormous time-savings we future of the textile industry: Industry 4.0 is pliers in China, Myanmar, Cambo- were making. Of course, this also not only revolutioniz- dia, India, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh helps to simplify cooperation across ing how manufacturers operate, but also into its digital colour management the entire supply chain.” how brands and retail- system. This has considerably accel- [www.caddon.com] ers need to function! Photo: Lectra

9-10/2017 | textile network 35 [1] [1] [3] Photo: Invista Photo: Photo: Invista Photo:

[4] Photo: Invista Photo:

[2] Photo: Cone Denim USA Photo: Invista Photo: Photo: Invista Special fibres and yarns - part 4: Cordura Love affair with durability Invista’s Cordura brand essence celebrates individual durability: As Long As The World Is Full Of Durable Peop- le, We’ll Keep Making Durable Fabrics. In 2017, the brand celebrates a 50-year love affair with durability. Over the past five decades, Cordura fabrics have proven themselves in some of the harshest conditions on earth and been used by some of the world’s most rugged and adventurous individuals.

It all began with the launch of many militaries around the globe Milliners, Cone Denim and more val- 1000-denier air-jet textured nylon and hard-wearing, hardworking fab- ued partners. “To us, the future of 6,6 fibers. JanSport adopted these rics for protective work clothing. innovation is collaboration – wheth- classic Cordura fabrics for its origi- From our heritage nylons to our later that’s with a leading denim de- nal line of daypacks, helping estab- est Cordura Combat Wool and Cor- sign studio such as ‘Monsieur-T.’ or lish the brand as a rugged style-set- dura Denim fabric technologies, the with our community of textile inno- ter. Over the decades more major Cordura brand is constantly striving vators,” said Cindy McNaull, global adoptions by brands like Carhartt, to push boundaries in the world of Cordura brand and marketing direc- Nike, The North Face, and Levi’s fol- long lasting fabric performance and tor. “We’re fortunate to be able to lowed. And the Cordura brand ex- cater to the growing demand for work with some of the most forward panded its portfolio with introduc- adaptive lifestyle apparel. The brand thinking talent in the industry in the tions like Cordura Ballistic fabrics, also continues to be on the cutting pursuit of next-gen design and the Cordura EcoMade recycled polyester edge of fabric technology, recently fusion of performance technologies fabric and comfortable, durable Cor- introducing its strongest-ever Invis- shaping the gear and apparel of to- dura Nyco fabric. ta T420HT nylon-6,6 staple fiber. morrow.” Today, you’ll find Cordura fabrics The combination of the growing de- Inspired by icons of the 1960s – like used in a wide variety of stylish, mand for technical denim and Cor- pilots, astronauts, superheroes and tough, long-lasting products from dura brand’s 50th anniversary has more with a modern spin and space apparel to footwear, including ver- led to a landmark year of collabora- age flair – the Cordura + Struktur satile fabrics that are trusted by tions with ‘Monsieur-T.’, Artistic Studio + Artistic Milliners ‘X Venture

36 textile network | 9-10/2017 Cordura brand name The world’s first coupled single-step State-of-the-art produc- transfers to a nylon texturing machine is commissioned to tion facility in Canada, is Cordura Plus 6,6 fiber line after produce Cordura brand qualifying commissioned to make Colorlock solu- DuPont phase out nylon yarns (USA) qualifying Cordura brand tion-dyed nylon ‘Super Cordura’ 500d nylon 6,6, version of specialty yarns (SDN) yarn is rayon Cordura Plus fabric is launched for en- launched hanced color con- sistency and fade 1977 1988 1991 1997 resistance

1967 1982 1989 1993 1998 Cordura brand fabrics based on fully US Military adopts 1000d dyeable 1000-denier air-jet yarns textured nylon Cordura fab- Production facility is installed in Ger- launched 1000d Cordura Plus fabric with twice rics to replace leather for many to manufacture qualifying ny- the number of filaments for improved lighter weight combat boots lon yarns suitable for Cordura brand- softness launched ed fabrics

Collexion’, features state- of- the art pictures left: age meets innovation”, the Cordu- Cone Denim’s White Oak mill, the Cordura Denim technologies engi- [1] Monsieur-T ra brand and Cone Denim pio- oldest operating denim mill in the neered by Artistic Milliners, Paki- neered a first of its kind, vintage in- United States, and the only mill [2] 50th anniversary stan. “We were proud to be ap- cake with Cindy spired Cordura Selvage Denim. Pro- making narrow selvage denim on proached by our long-standing part- McNaull duced on American Draper X3 fly shuttle looms that date back to ners at the Cordura brand to work Shuttle looms, this signature made- the 1940s. The collaboration cele- [3] X-Venture on providing next generation denim Collexion in-the-USA fabric is created through brates the Cordura brand 50th An- for their upcoming 50th anniversary a collaborative development pro- niversary theme of reimagining the [4] Collaboration with celebration,” said Neil Bell, Artistic Cone Denim cess between Cone Denim’s ‘Cone past to reinvent the future. Milliners’ global manager & direc- 3D’ (Denim, Design, and Develop- In another tribute to the brand’s tor. ment) R&D team and the Cordura commitment to innovation through The X Venture Collexion’s retro-fu- brand. The fabric is produced at collaboration, the Cordura brand al-  turistic range of garments are spe- cifically engineered with the latest Cordura Combat Wool and Tencel denims, and feature specialist Sch- oeller ‘coating technologies. The carefully crafted fusion of these high performance technologies brings a modern look to the denim of the future. Embracing its 50th anniversary with the theme “herit- Cordura Denim GEOS pattern development system Our pattern development system offering a wide range of software options for Stoll© machines is based on a PC solution and is closely aligned to Apple's handling features. Available in laptop, starter and complete versions. Upgrades for existing PCs, colour prints and colour chart

Photo: Invista prints on CLC10 colour printers. NEW: Apple disc drive for reading and writing Apple pattern disks on the Sirix® system. "abm" conversion kit for numerically controlled machines with CNC technology. This kit transforms your NC machine into a B-compatible machine. Installing it is easy. Insert cards are removed from the switchboard and the "abm" cards are inserted. The screen and keyboard are plugged in - and there you have it! All ANVH-B tapes, programs and patterns are now available to you. Spare parts and special models for older machines. © by H. Stoll GmbH & Co., D-72762 Reutlingen ® Sirix is a registered trademark of H. Stoll GmbH & Co., D-72762 Reutlingen

If you would like to find out more about our products simply contact us at: GEOS Textilmaschinen Computer GmbH & Co. KG Hauptstraße 40 D-72359 Dotternhausen Tel. ++49 7427 69002 Fax ++49 7427 69004

9-10/2017 | textile network 37 U.S. military adopts newly developed Invista launches Klopman SDN Cordura fabric with enhanced Vantage fabric featuring Cor- Comfortably, Durable near infrared signature reduction and dura brand technology Cordura Nyco fabric for camouflage technology for fabric and Cordura EcoMade fabric workwear launched webbing made with recycled polyester yarns launched

2001 2003 2008 2010 2013

2002 2008 2009 2012 Cordura Air Flow Invista launches US Marine Corp adopts Cordura Baselayer fabric is launched to Technology (AFT) Cordura Ballistic Cordura Denim fab- 725d Cordura fabric for provide soldiers and law enforcement of- introduced for fabrics for lug- ric for Workwear, use in the New Im- ficers with comfortably durable protection outdoor and ath- gage market using Outdoor and Ready- proved Load Bearing to-Wear markets letic footwear high tenacity ny- (ILBE) rucksack lon 6,6 yarns launched

Cordura – the differents between yesterday and today? We asked Cindy McNaull

textile network: What is the Sometimes it is opening our eyes to Cindy McNaull: Traditional bound- main difference between the Cor- new ways to use existing fabrics. aries are changing – our customers dura fabric from 1967 and today’s Sometimes it’s pushing us for re- are taking inspiration from a wide Cordura fabrics? quirements that result in our devel- variety of markets such as outdoor, Cindy McNaull: The origin of the opment teams making exciting cycling, yoga and so on. The casu- Cordura brand 50 years ago was breakthroughs, new collections or alization of our wardrobes as well

durability and we remain true to innovative technologies. But, en- as an “athleisure” lifestyle has defi- Phhoto: Invista our Core of Durability in all that gaging with designers always pro- nitely taken off, and Cordura fabrics Cindy McNaull we do. The consumer knows Cor- vides inspiration for us to keep mak- are the perfect medium for this shift. dura fabrics as the durable fabric ing Durable Fabrics for Durable Peo- We have used this cross-seeding solution that helps them go fur- ple. And, our collaborations with theme to help introduce Cordura ther. the design community offer us a fabrics, which were originally devel- In today’s Cordura fabric portfolio unique opportunity to showcase oped for specific markets such as we focus on what we call “Dura- ‘the art of the possible.’ workwear and military into other bility Plus”. This is what has markets where long lasting, fabric helped to expand our technolo- textile network: In which seg- performance is valued. Activities gies and allowed us to continue ments is Cordura already successful such as our collaborations with to offer relevant, stylish, durable today? young designers and textile innova- fabrics for our customers. Our Cindy McNaull: Historically, Cordu- tors help give us insight and ideas brand was founded on traditional ra fabrics have been associated with for future collections. Recently we Cordura Classic fabrics – 100 per- heavy-duty applications, such as have focused on the emerging cent air jet textured nylon 6,6 wo- military and workwear. But, the crossover lifestyle trend that caters ven solutions. Today, we offer full brand also has a long history in the to consumers looking for multifunc- head-to-toe durable solutions, outdoors and other extreme and en- tional apparel that they can easily not only in traditional applica- durance activities where active life- wear to work and for their leisure tions such as bags and packs, but styles mean high-quality, long-last- pursuits. a wide array of performance and ing products are a priority. Cordura For example, fabrics originally de- lifestyle apparel too, including su- fabrics have found their way into signed for performance sports ap- per soft next-of-skin knits and virtually every type of gear and apparel are being integrated into work wovens and stylishly elegant en- parel, from messenger bags to den- clothing for both comfort and func- durance wool blends. im jeans to military boots to ultra- tionality… the result being clothing lightweight outerwear, to children’s that performs beyond just the jobsite textile network: How important clothing and even dog booties, – delivering garments that can be are collaborations for the devel- helping create products that are taken from the morning commute to opment of new functionalities? strong yet lightweight, comfortable a day on the job to after work activi- Cindy McNaull: Cordura brand is and functional. These durable, ties, too. Dynamic garments that dedicated to innovation through adaptive performance fabrics are help us keep up with our ever mov- collaboration – from textile inno- lifestyle-focused and built to last for ing, ever changing lifestyles. Fashion vators to authorized mills to de- nearly any need… military, tactical, and function do go together and to- signers themselves. We take eve- outdoor, on the go, at work, urban day’s Cordura fabrics are designed ry opportunity to meet with de- exploration just to name a few. to help do just that. signers at every level so that we have access to their ideas, under- textile network: In which seg- Thank you for the interview. The stand their demands and can help ments is an expanding planning for questions for textile network were build their dream solutions. the future? asked by Iris Schlomski.

38 textile network | 9-10/2017 Invista’s Seaford Delaware plant Cordura Lite Plus celebrates 75th Anniversary of 32 Cordura fabrics selected as Technology the invention of Nylon fiber. winners in Ispo Textrends Out- Cordura brand cele- launched - nylon One of the key Invista global door Industry trend contest brates 50 Year anni- 6,6 fibers which manufacturing facilities making Marlane, Italy introduce their first versary – launching are weight for nylon for Cordura fabrics weight stronger Endurance collection – Cordura a 50 for 50 global than steel Combat Wool fabrics for roadshow men’s suits 2014 2016 2016 2016

2013 2014 2016 2016 2017 First collaboration an- Cordura Combat Wool nounced with Tencel Authentic Alchemie Cordura Denim fabric technology Cordura 4Ever Fleece technol- fiber – Cordura Denim – fabric collection for technical perfor- launched – a new era ogy launched showcasing soft, Softened Strength mance denims showcased at key of performance wool long-lasting knits global denim market events

 so engaged international design Looking Ahead bags created by The North Face to studio ‘Monsieur-T.’, specialist gar- The Cordura brand continues to commemorate a long-standing partment finisher ‘Denim Authority’, Tu- forge ahead with new innovations nership with Cordura brand. nisia, and Cordura brand authorized as part of its 50th anniversary cele- After five decades of durability, the mills Arvind, Artistic Milliners, Cone bration. Upcoming collaborations Cordura brand now turns to the fu- Denim and Kipas to create the Re/ are bringing new textile technolo- ture of performance textiles. The Mastered Collection, a line of mod- gies to Cordura fabrics, including changing marketplace will continue ernized 20th century utilitarian sil- Cotton Inc.’s TransDry and Storm to demand cutting-edge innova- houettes with specially crafted Cor- Cotton’s technologies and DuPont, tions, and the brand’s portfolio will dura Denims. Tate & Lyle’s Susterra bio-based continue to evolve to meet consum- “Our studio reached out to find real membranes and coatings. The anni- er needs while maintaining its herit- collectible pieces from the past, versary also celebrates the brand’s age in reliable durability. which is in perfect alignment with heritage of collaboration with lead- More about the Cordura brand and the Cordura brand’s 50th anniversa- ing manufacturers, introducing a the jubilee on textile-network.com! ry year. Blending “Monsieur-T.” new collection of made-in-the-USA [www.cordura.com] Studio designs with Cordura Denim technicity and vintage flair makes for trend-driven utility clothing,” said Tilmann Wröbel, denim guru TH and founder of “Monsieur-T.” “Our 56 dornbirn mAn-mAde fibers dream was to combine science and congress innovation in products that showed 13.–15.09.2017 a human touch through signs of Austria time and wear, and the addition of Cordura fabrics from some of the world’s leading denim mills really brought the collection to life.” The pieces created for the collection are inspired by ‘60s workwear, mo- © shutterstock torcycling and even military applications, made of specialty Cordura fabrics and combined with dis- tressed, heritage production and fin- © shutterstock © shutterstock ishing by Denim Authority. Combat Wool Congress Themes

Fiber innovations Fibers, textiles and nonwovens for hygienic and healthcare applications 800 participants from 30 nations over 100 lectures Fibers, textiles and nonwovens for protective applications Fibers, textiles and nonwovens for sports and leisure wear

www.dornbirn-mfc.com [email protected] Photo: Suedwolle Group Photo: Suedwolle Group

9-10/2017 | textile network 39 Sensil is Nilit Fibres’ new premi- fibers and yarns um brand. Sensil Breeze, Sensil Heat, Aquarius and Innergy are some of the brand’s innovative fiber specialties

Fibers and Yarns - part 4: Nilit Fibres Nylon 6.6. with unique functions

Whether sports, fashion and brand. Sensil Breeze is one of functional fabrics – man-made the highlights. fibers are at the core of all of The secret is in polymer and today’s sport garments, linge- yarn production. Nilit do not rie, hosiery, leisure and work finish their fibers and yarns. In- wear. With their energizing, stead they integrate mineral cooling, warming or moisture micro particles before the fiber transporting properties, func- is even spun. The micro parti- tional fibers made from Nilit cles are added to the polymer, Fiber’s special high quality ny- which permanently binds them lon 6.6 deliver measurable re- into the spun fiber. While in sults when it comes to perfor- conventional finishing effects Photo: Parah mance, comfort, and well be- lessen with each wash cycle, ing. Sensil Breeze’s functional prop- Fashion and sports brand part- products, complements the The Israeli Company offers a erties last as long as the gar- ners do not only use Sensil portfolio. The materials do not broad portfolio of premium ment will. This is a result the Breeze with its cooling effect, only convince by their unique qualities under their new Sensil customer can rely on. but also Sensil Aquarius featur- properties. They also feature a ing excellent moisture manage- distinctive, soft, gentle touch, ment and performance sup- comparable to viscose or soft port, and Sensil Heat with its cotton or even silk. distinctive heat insulating function. Sensil Breeze – The fiber yarns are processed the cooling fiber into knitwear (seamless or clas- Sensil Breeze’s cooling effect sic), and also into woven fab- results from the fiber’s flat rics for sports and leisurewear cross section and the integrat- collections. A wide range of ed micro particles. They ensure wellness fibers, which many re- a fast moisture transport to the

Photo: Nilit nowned brands use for their outside, causing a strong venti- Nilit Breeze illustration fashion, lingerie and hosiery lation effect which the wearer feels as a pleasant cooling touch to the skin. The fibers’ Nilit Ltd., Israel, is a leading provider of premium nylon 6.6. The Company has been develo- cotton-like cross section makes ping innovative polymers and specialty nylon yarns for many years. Nilit’s Sensil brand fibers the yarn smooth and supple, are renowned for their unique, permanently integrated functionality. All fibers are produced bringing great wearing comfort from polyamide 6.6, a fiber material perfectly suited for sports, fashion and leisurewear. Nilit to the garment. The use of is an expert in integrating a wide diversity of functions and properties into yarns and fabrics. And these functions will last. matte polymer ensures a soft The polyamide 6.6 fiber material also features excellent basic properties, i.e. low moisture ab- surface, excellent air permea- sorption, good moisture transport, fast drying, durability, sports function, and odor resistance bility and breathability of the by nature. Fabrics made from this material feature an especially soft handle and excellent fabric. In addition, Sensil wearing comfort. Nilit sell and communicate their premium nylon 6.6 yarn portfolio under the Breeze naturally eliminates any Sensil brand name, with Sensil fibers being used in fashion, sports, lingerie and hosiery pro- unpleasant odors without ducts all over the world. Nilit Fibers also offers the renowned Cordura, Tactel, and Supplex chemical additives. fiber brands. [www.sensilnylon.com]

40 textile network | 9-10/2017 In conversation with textile network: Mustapa Moham- med, Malaysia´s Minister of In- ternational Trade and Industry Photo: Manik Mehta

Malaysia RCEP is only the next best option

When US President Donald placing the TPP. He underlined munity, offering German and enterprises such as Apparel Al- Trump withdrew the USA from the importance of the US as a other companies a highly deve- liance Sdn., based in Bhd in the Transpacific Partnership trading partner, continuing: loped infrastructure as well as Kluang, Johor, which offers IT (TPP) earlier this year, the remai- “The USA is Malaysia’s third good connections to other and automation solutions for ning eleven members of this biggest trade partner“ with bila- ASEAN members. the apparel industry and exhi- stalling community were left teral trade in 2016 amounting to bited at Techtextil/Texprocess reeling. Several months later, almost US$ 50bn. Technical textiles 2017. Jordan Tang, Director of they now seem to be turning In view of the fierce competiti- Apparel Alliance, said: “3D di- their attention to the Regional US investment in Malaysia on from countries such as Viet- gitalisation is in great demand. Cooperation Economic Partner- In 2016, Malaysia attracted nam, Cambodia and Bangla- The efficiency this brings leads ship (RCEP) which is being tout- MYR 208 bn (MYR = Malaysian desh, Malaysia’s textiles indus- to faster delivery times; re- ed by China as a serious alterna- Ringgits) in investment. From try is increasingly focusing on search and development are tive to the TPP. In terms of qua- abroad MYR 58 bn. The de- quality and innovation. Malay- contributing to further advan- lity, environmental protection, mand for textiles within the sian manufacturers are concen- ces in digitalisation.” In this copyright etc., the RCEP opera- context of both the TPP and the trating, among others, on crea- context, he emphasised that di- tes on a considerably lower level RCEP would be huge; this is ting their own brands. One of gitalisation cannot, however, than the once US-led TPP. In certainly what the Chinese are strengths of the country’s texti- replace the labour-intensive as- conversation with textile net- bargaining for, even though sole business lies in technical tex- pects of clothing production. work, Malaysia’s Minister of In- me member states are unwil- tiles. In conversation with texti- Technical textiles are a “silver ternational Trade and Industry, ling to buy Chinese products. le network, S. Siva, Director of lining” for the global textile Mustapa Mohammed, stated: The Minister somewhat reassu- the Frankfurt office of MIDA, trade and one of Malaysia’s “We’re in no rush to bury the ringly pointed out that the Malaysia’s investment deve- great strengths. The industry TPP. The RCEP could, however, RCEP agreement would contain lopment authority, stated: has set its sights on expanding be the next best option.“ Mus- a mechanism preventing the “Malaysia has made huge pro- this sector, which experts say tapa points out that the great export of state-subsidised progress in the application of high- can only be achieved in con- appeal of the TPP for Malaysia ducts (dumping) to the markets tech in the textile industry.“ Si- junction with innovation and a was the opportunity to gain ac- of all signatories. “The RCEP va referred in this context to good marketing strategy. Siva: cess to the lucrative US market. would also stimulate Chinese Malaysian companies speciali- “We’d like to attract compa- This is why the RCEP can merely investment in Malaysia,” the sing in technology for the pro- nies to Malaysia that have be seen as the second best opti- Minister states. Malaysia is also duction of technical textiles technological strengths in the on, capable of only partially re- a member of the ASEAN com- and nonwovens, as well as field of technical and high-performance textiles. The German Kuala Lumpur is the capital of Ma- company, Naue GmbH & Co., laysia. The city has the status of Federal Territory and is the coun- for example, has set up a pro- try’s administrative, cultural and duction facility in Malaysia spe- Photo: fotolia Photo: economic centre and its largest cialising in geotextiles, geosyn- metropolitan region (Wikipedia) thetic clay liners and similar.” Statistics from the Malaysian investment authority show that, in the period from 2012 to 2015, the country’s textile industry attracted MYR 1.64bn (US$1 = MYR 4.30) in investment from all over the world. At the same time, global textile exports from Malaysia rose in the period to MYR 580m. [Manik Mehta]

9-10/2017 | textile network 41 markets

Helsa Icon India A new factory building An appealing combination of glass, stone and wood dominates the exterior of the impressive building that radiates the spirit of innovation. It takes account of the requirements of a modern shoulder-upholstery production.

Helsa Icon India produces shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls for the garment industry in Hyderabad. An enormous growth in this area has made it necessary to expand the production area. If 1.7 million pairs of pads were manufactured in 2012, the figure for 2017 is expected to be over 5 million pairs. As an employer, Helsa is committed to the same standards in India as in Germany or all other Helsa factories [1] around the world. “We are a family, which means that we promote our employees worldwide. In India, this can mean giving a young seamstress the opportunity to learn to read and write, in order to be able to assume more responsibility later. It is important for us to see the individual and Photos: Helsa we are ready to take special paths that will take us all to more common members proudly presented the [1] “Helsa Icon India“ opment in Telangana. We inter- welfare.” Monika Sandler (Helsa work of many weeks and months to – Monika Sandler re- viewed CEO Aartee Patil about Hel- called in her address company owner), Aartee Patil and the public. A special honour was the how it was six years sa and their collaboration with the Sandeep Prasad (General Manager presence of K. T. Rama Rao, Minis- ago when Helsa Icon international Helsa team. India was first found- India) together with their team ter of IT, Industry and Urban Devel- ed. Helsa is a well- Aartee Patil: “The Helsa Icon India known and respected joint venture is on a solid footing. brand in India’s appa- The dedicated Helsa team has intro- rel industry duced us to a new era of work environment. We are enthusiastic about the passionate and binding cooperation with our customers of the fashion industry. It is a pleasure to be part of this fantastic alliance. The well-known quote from Henry Ford, the founder of the Ford Motor Company, stands as an example for our cooperation: ‘Coming together is beginning, Staying together is progress, Working together is suc- View of Helsa Icon cess. ’” India’s production in Hyderabad [www.helsa.com]

42 textile network | 9-10/2017 NETWORKED

You find more information about the Helsa compliance and safety standard at www.textile-network.com

Helsa compliance and safety standard – we asked Gerd Homski, Managing Director helsa Fashion Shaping textile network: Mr. Homski, we textile network: Why does it still generally notice an increasing num- need a Helsa standard? ber of consumers who are very criti- Gerd Homski: The hCSS is precisely cal about clothing products being matched to all relevant points in the produced in emerging markets such shoulder pad production and leads as Bangladesh, Vietnam and India. to our opinion to the most effective TEXTILE NETWORK Helsa also produces in countries like result. You can join our Cambodia and India or China. Can you confirm this consumer attitude textile network: So briefly said: network too! as well? you are controlling yourself Textile network is at home not just Gerd Homski: Most of our fashion Gerd Homski: We the Helsa group in print but also in the digital me- labels, that means customers, pay has installed an own department dia. When we tell a story on textile- close attention to ethical and social for energy and environmental man- network.de or textile-network.com, standards as well as to security in agement and auditing. This depart- we continue writing it in the print the supply companies. Many of our ment is completely independent edition, we share it on Facebook, customers carry out on-site audits from our operative business and ad- comment on it on Twitter or intro- or demand self-commitments on ditionally very well educated. Due duce it on Youtube. We’re network- these issues from their suppliers. to the very good and ongoing training every day and in every possible ing of these employees there, they way. textile network: What does this are at a very high level when it mean for Helsa? comes to the organization of work Even easier to access our Gerd Homski: Helsa, as a tradition- safety measures, environmental textile network newsletter al German company, has taken care and energy management tasks. This It’s now even easier for visitors to of the care and responsibility of all position is responsible for the entire our website to sign up for our free employees. We manufacture all Helsa group, including the col- email service: at the bottom of eve- over the world exclusively in facto- leagues in the technical division. All ry article, you will find a corre- ries owned by ourselves or at least our plants are visited and audited sponding link to the newsletter reg- 50 percent of them. We are creating by the auditor at least once a year. istration form – you need never

Photos: Helsa the working conditions in responsi- The advantage of this executive de- miss an important news item bility of social, ethical and ecologi- partment is that the auditor is also again! cal aspects. an adviser. If he detects safety fail- ures on machines, he gives support Share articles in textile textile network: How do you en- and may provide assistance in rem- network sure this? edying the deviations. We’ve also made it easier for you Gerd Homski: We have two instru- to share our online articles on so- ments. On the one hand, there is textile network: The new produc- cial media. Our new buttons help the Helsa code of conduct, which tion facility in Hyderabad, India. you to share texts on conventional regulates ethical and social stand- What are your opportunities now? networks such as Facebook and ards and which is valid in each Hel- Gerd Homski: Of course, this new Twitter. We do, of course, take the sa site all over the world. The sec- building brings us the urgently protection of your data very seri- ond instrument is the Helsa Compli- needed production space for the ously. The Share Buttons at the ance and Safety Standard (hCSS). growing markets in Myanmar, end of each web item are initially Here, we have defined detailed and Bangladesh and Indonesia. We deactivated and do not transfer exact themes from the area of work have designed this building accord- any of our users’ personal data to safety, machine safety, building se- ing to state of the art knowledge of Facebook, Google or Twitter – un- curity, handling of resources and "lean management" and, of course, til you activate the function your- the environment and similar topics. the Helsa Compliance and Safety self by clicking on it. Our new dou- Once a year, each Helsa site is thor- Standards gave decisive criteria for ble-click feature allows manufac- oughly examined in accordance planning. turers to inform their communities Gerd Homski, with these regulations. Thank you, Mr. Homski! CEO Helsa Fashion about any and every report in tex- Shaping tile network. So why not try it?

9-10/2017 | textile network 43 Report

Mayer & Cie. addresses Shoe Upper growth market Photo: Adobe Stock, ChiccoDodiFC Stock, Adobe Photo: Circular knitting sets footwear trend Circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT) has in its extensive portfolio several machines that are suitable for the manufacture of shoe upper material. The long-established manufacturer’s new OVJA 1.6 EE – 3WT/2WT is the first machine in the company’s product range that was specially designed for this purpose.

„Circular knitted fabric has long cular knitting in the manufacture of Reinforcement for a compact been in use in footwear, for the in- shoe upper material is huge,” says portfolio sole or the lining, for example,” Bühler in view of these advantages. The OVJA 1.6 ET 3 WT, for example, says Hardy Bühler, Key Account “And we are well prepared to make is an established machine in the May- Manager Brands at Mayer & Cie. good use of it.” er & Cie. product range. With its “Circular knitting of shoe uppers is This is a reference to Mayer & Cie.’s stitch transfer option for the produc- a relatively recent trend.“ The con- existing portfolio, which is consid- tion of perforated or hole designs it ventional means of manufacturing ered to be the most comprehensive has already proved suitable for the shoe upper material for sport shoes in the market. Above all, the pro- manufacture of shoe upper material. has until now been either flat knit- duction of shoe upper material is a “Only recently it enabled us to acting or warp knitting. Circular knit- use, Bühler says, for which Mayer & quire a new customer who supplies ting clearly has the edge over both Cie.’s well-known OVJA range of the footwear industry,” Bühler says. of these in terms of productivity and circular knitting machines is opti- The newcomer to the range, specially variety of patterns. A circular knit- mally suited. designed for use in the shoe upper ting machine’s output is around ten to twenty times that of a flat knitting machine and a warp knitting This machine, the OVJA 1.6 ET 3 WT is an machine needs several warp beams established machine in the Mayer & Cie. to produce the patterns required for portfolio. It has proven suitable for produ- shoe upper material. The warp cing shoe uppers. beams have to be prepared, which The OVJA 1.6 ET 3 WT is very versatile in terms of the requires a labour input that is only patterns it can produce, especially because it can worthwhile if larger quantities of transfer stitches on every third system. Its three-way the patterned fabric are to be manu- technology ensures maximum design flexibility by me- factured. If a circular knitting ma- ans of individual needle selection. It makes a wide chine is to produce a pattern, it can range of structures, including the above-mentioned be changed swiftly and without hole structure, possible. Using a conversion kit the complications by means of the de- OVJA 1.6 ET 3 WT can also be quickly used as a sign software. As a result, smaller full jacquard machine to produce multi-colou- lots are profitable on a circular knit- red shoe designs. ting machine. “The potential for cir- Photo: Mayer & Cie.

44 textile network | 9-10/2017 Circular knitted fabric is growing increasingly popular as an upper material for leisure and sport shoes. The high level of productivity makes circular knitting especially interesting for the manufacture of “fabric” shoe uppers Photo: Karl Mayer Circular knitted fabric has long been in use in footwear, for the insole or the lining, KARL MAYER - 80TH ANNIVERSARY for example. But circular knitting of shoe uppers is a relatively recent trend. “Demand for circular knitted shoe uppers has increased enormously over the past three to four In-house show of years,” says Mayer & Cie.’s Hardy Bühler. But how long does it take to develop this superlatives kind of machinery and who is Mayer & Cie. targeting with this latest innovation? The celebration, which was held at textile network: Mr Bühler, how long did it take you to develop your new machine, ty- the company’s headquarters on 6 pe OVJA 1.6 EE – 3WT/2WT? July 2017, brought together cus- Hardy Bühler: By the time it goes into production at the beginning of 2018, the deve- tomers from all over the world. lopment of the OVJA 1.6 EE – 3WT/2WT will have taken around eighteen months. This is More than 750 guests came from a relatively short lead time which was only possible because of our ability to draw on a 50 countries. Some of the visitors broad base of existing and suitable machines. accepted long and troublesome journeys, coming for example from textile network: What sort of volumes do you need to be producing for the acquisition India, China, Taiwan and Japan. of this special shoe-making machine to be worthwhile? Karl Mayer was presenting itself to Hardy Bühler: There isn’t really a rule of thumb because a purchase of this kind will al- the visitors as a company, which is ways be based on an individual cost-benefit calculation. In comparison with flat knitting, ideally placed to face the future. circular knitting is between ten and twenty times more productive. However, a circular During a guided tour, they were knitting machine is also three to four times more expensive. shown the completely renovated If you compare the production of shoe uppers on circular knitting machines with the Component Production Depart- other established manufacturing method, namely warp knitting, the picture is very diffe- ment, an Assembly Hall, which rent again: a warp-knitting machine is far more productive than a circular knitter, but is was only opened at the end of last far more limited in the variety of patterns it can produce. year, and the modern Develop- ment Centre. Over the last five textile network: Do these Mayer & Cie. machines allow companies to produce shoes years, Karl Mayer has invested ex- even if they don’t specialise in them? tensively in improving the compet- Hardy Bühler: Oh yes, definitely. The production of just the knitted shoes, without the itiveness of its high-tech locations remaining parts, can certainly be an option for any experienced knitting mill. We’ve even in Germany, Italy and Japan, and received enquiries from a producer of mattress covers. I also feel confident that a fashion has spent a total of Euro 60 million. knitter could tap into a new market in this way. The money was invested in new plant, modernising the production textile network: In which countries do you see the greatest potential for the Mayer & facilities, and new IT systems. Cie. machines for shoe uppers? During the tour of the halls, it Hardy Bühler: We think there’s great potential in Brazil, because it has a large domestic quickly became clear that Karl sporting goods market. Then, of course, there are the usual players in South-East Asia, Mayer is passionate about the fu- that is China, Vietnam, Taiwan and South Korea. China is the biggest market anyway ture. “The company has changed and the largest manufacturer of textile products. It is also home to a complete supply enormously since my last visit. The chain for footwear. For neighbouring countries such as Taiwan and South Korea foreign facilities and general atmosphere direct investment, also in Vietnam, is of particular interest. are extremely modern and pro- gressive,” said Ning Yi Shen, the Mr Bühler, many thanks for talking to us! The interview was led by Iris Schlomski on be- Managing Director of Tianhai Lace, half of textile network. thus, stating the general impressions. “We are presenting our- sector, is the OVJA 1.6 EE – 3WT/2WT. of shoe upper material are, for exam- selves successfully as innovative It uses three-way technology in the ple, the Technit D3, the OVJA 1.6 E world market leader. All the cus- cylinder and two-way technology in and the OVJA 0.8 E. The Technit D3 tomers are impressed by the new the rib dial, thereby ensuring maxi- knits three-threaded on the cylinder factory hall added to our head- mum pattern variety. This combina- side and produces spacer structures quarters and by the new and inno- tion makes it an optimal footwear with four needle tracks. The OVJA 1.6 vative further developments of our machine that is especially suitable for E offers an almost unlimited number machines,“ confirmed Arno Gärt- the production of multi-coloured de- of knitted structures, while the OVJA ner, Karl Mayers CEO during the signs along with microstructure ele- 0.8 E is the right machine for coarse- event." ments. Other machines in the MCT knit jacquard and hole structures. [www.karlmayer.com/en] range that are fit for the production [www.mayerandcie.com]

9-10/2017 | textile network 45 business

Exklusive-series: industry 4.0 explained – part 4.2 Remits in digital change The working world of the future will be different from today´s. The title "Work 4.0" is a byword for several important developments and trends, which will have a profound effect on our working world.

In addition to demographic change, will increase the need for more individualization and a general complex activities, while it will de- change in values, however, the focus cline in the case of ancillary activi- is on digital transformation. For ties. The overwhelming number of work, this means a great potential occupations will by no means for change. Significant shifts in disappear, but will change un- working styles and relationships, as mistakably. Overall, produc- well as the requirements for train- tion, development and sales ing, qualification and further educa- work will merge. The distri- tion, are emerging. The challenges of bution of tasks will be less these changes are considerable, but divided, hierarchies are can be shaped. said to be leveling out and topic-specific networks as Change through decrease of well as information flows be- routine activities come more important. In addi- We won't run out of work; rather, tion to leadership, education studies (IAB, Nuremberg) will lead and training play the key role in to a significant change in the range the change management. In addi- of tasks. Through digital transfor- tion to digital content, it will be im- Photo: STFI mation, it is estimated that in the portant to strengthen competences year 2025 around 1.5 million pre- such as conceptual thinking, pro- sent jobs could no longer exist, but cess understanding, creativity, ab- the same number of additional jobs straction and communication skills Dimensions and rela- of digital technologies effectively could come along elsewhere. This in order to make the opportunities ted topics of the digi- usable. tal transformation (according to Impuls- When asked how the different ac- Study Industrie tivities of certain (groups of) em- 4.0-Readiness) ployees in textile production will change in the event that Industrie 4.0 applications were to be imposed, representatives of the textile sector are drawing a similar picture. Thus, it is expected that search processes will be reduced and manual activities, such as documentation, quality control, machine monitoring, inventory or material, as well as picking, will be reduced or increasingly assisted. Assembly activities will remain the same, but will Weave room at Curt Bauer GmbH – roun- be accelerated by collaboration tine work will domi- with robots. New tasks will be add- nate the world of work to an ever decreasing ed with regard to IT operation, data Photo: Wolfgang Schmidt Photo: Wolfgang Schmidt degree maintenance and support as well as

46 textile network | 9-10/2017 Expansion of the area of responsibility using the example of the machine control Photo: STFI mobile machine monitoring and longer has to be on site and can awareness and support in order to control. Especially for machine op- eliminate simple problems in a loca- develop the necessary competences erators, maintenance workers and tion-independent manner. In this in dealing with the new technolo- foremen, an expanded qualification context the control of automatically gies. Expected start-up obstacles requirement will arise. corrected faults, the detection of should not lead to a reduction in faults not noticed by the machine as motivation and should be prevented Expansion of the task well as the conversion of indicated by means of targeted process moni- spectrum maintenance will be tasks for the toring. If these typical management Using the example of the machine operator to do at the machine. In tasks are not perceived, the digital operator on weaving machines, the quality assurance, the machine op- transformation can come to a halt upcoming changes in the task field erator will continue to ensure the despite the latest technologies. can also be shown as follows. Be- sustainable handling of machines, In addition, new forms of collabora- sides the increasingly assisted main equipment and materials, while at tion are challenging established activities on the machine(s), addi- the same time hand over some tasks structures. Leadership is increasingly tional tasks will come along and the such as testing the material quality taking place at a distance and is range of activities will expand. to the machine. Also the documenta- more and more shared, which means Among other things, this concerns tion of activities, results and prob- that executives need to fill changing upstream tasks, such as material lems will only rarely be carried out roles within their teams. Prepara- preparation and picking, subsequent by the operator by means of com- tion, training and coaching are nec- tasks, e.g. the preparation of further plex logbooks or verbal communica- essary to meet the requirements of processes or logistics, but also su- tion, but rather by a network-based the digital world. Motivation instead perordinate tasks of quality assur- documentation. of control, knowledge sharing in- ance, order planning/control and It should be noted that in the exam- stead of information hoarding are maintenance. ple of machine operation and moni- only two of the many facets of digi- In the operational area, the search toring intelligent, interconnected tal leadership. With this in mind, dig- in manuals for the implementation machines will lead to the decrease ital transformation is not just a tech- of instructions will be omitted and or the elimination of certain tasks. nological (r)evolution, but can also replaced by visualized needs for ac- Nevertheless, much of the central be the driving force behind changes tion on mobile devices. The number tasks will be maintained to the same in corporate culture. of machines to be operated will in- extent and new, additional tasks will crease. This increase in the workload be added. Building on the first four parts of the is compensated in the loading of series Networked Production, Smart machines. Although these tasks re- Digital leadership Maintenance, Human-Machine In- main unchanged in their extent, On the way to a digital organization, teraction and Working World, (tex- they can be assisted by robotic col- companies are changing profoundly. tile network 1-2/3-4/5-6/7-8/9-10) laboration in the case of physical ac- ”Without a management 4.0, the we will present a vision of the textile tivities. technologies of Industrie 4.0 will not factory of the future in the issue tex- The machine operator will continue work.” (Fraunhofer IML). Employees tile network 11-12/2017. to ensure the functionality of the in production, sales, services or lo- [Robert Mothes, Dirk Zschenderlein, machines, but in interaction with the gistics are to work with the autono- Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut machine. In order to check the ma- mous plants and individualized pro- Chemnitz e.V. (STFI)] chine status (call up the operating cesses. However, in addition to a [www.stfi.de] state or identify problems), he no technical briefing, this also requires

9-10/2017 | textile network 47 IVGT IVGT High attendance for the dialogue

measures are taken. Quednau Speakers at the 2017 PPE Dialogue from industry associations IVGT, identified adequate measures German Fashion and Wirtex according to the TOP principle – technical, organisational and personal. Michael Pöhlig, Chief Executive of the IVGT, explained the newly published EU regulations of 13 June 2017 which amend Appendix XVII of the REACH regulations with regard to perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), its salts and PFOA pre- cursors. Prior to the amend- ment, the association had succeeded in establishing a limit of 25 ppb. The figure of 2 ppb originally planned would have had grave consequences for Photo: Wirtex the textile industry. There are The 2nd Expert Discussion Dia- She presented five trend areas mentation of the new regula- transitional timetables of 3 to 6 logue in the textile chain on that were critical to develop- tions, made important com- years for the regulations, which current topics in the field of ments in personal protective ments on interpretation and came into force on 4 July 2017. personal protective equipment clothing: ‘comfort benefits’ explained judgements under Pöhlig, however, called for all (PPE) was a great success. from elastic and light fibre product safety and product lia- players in the industry to em- This varied programme, held in blends and different clothing bility law. Peter Heffels of the bark swiftly on a search for al- Frankfurt at the invitation of layers, ‘digitalisation’ through Construction Industry Trade ternatives. He also provided in- Wirtex, the IVGT specialist smart textiles and Industry 4.0, Association tackled the matter formation on the application of associations and the fashion ‘end of exploitation’ through of adapting to the PPE regula- the current Biocidal Products industry association Germa acceptance of corporate re- tions. Regulations. Fashion, covered many current sponsibility, an upwardly open Responsibility for personal pro- The series of presentations issues from trends in PPE de- ‘price’ and the ‘regulated con- tective clothing does not end concluded with Ria Müller sign and matters of standards tinuing development’ of tex- once it has been purchased – (IÖW), who put forward the and certification to require- tiles and care processes. this was the key message from Federal administration’s guide- ments for public procurement. More than a year after publica- Wolfgang Quednau (BTTA lines for sustainable textile Following a welcome from Wir- tion of the new EU PPE regula- GmbH) in his presentation. For sourcing. Finally, Werner Mün- tex Director Dr Andreas Marek, tions in 2016, Thomas Lange, fully functional PPE it is impor- nich and Dr Andreas Marek in- the series of presentations was Deputy Managing Director of tant always to take all aspects troduced the current Wirtex opened by Sabine Anton- German Fashion, reported on of SUCAM – selection, use, PPE projects. The next PPE Ex- Katzenbach of the consultancy current problems with the PPE care and maintenance – into pert Discussion takes place on Textilberatung Hamburg, on regulations. He noted issues re- account. A thorough seven- 6 June 2018. the subject of ‘Trends in per- quiring further clarification stage risk assessment must be [www.ivgt.de] sonal protective clothing’. that had arisen in the imple- conducted before protective Ole Björn Kulinski, Process Development Manager – Supply Chain Solutions at Hermes Germany Photo: Kulinski Hermes Germany Championing climate protection

What impact do our own ac- logistics service providers are companies in our industry, it’s emissions. Ole Björn Kulinski tions have on the climate and responding to these challenges a real challenge to collate reli- notes: “We regularly have our the environment? This question by joining forces within the able data to determine carbon own carbon footprint verified is becoming increasingly rele- Clean Cargo Working Group footprints along supply by the international auditor vant to logistics companies and (CCWG). Their common objec- chains,” states Ole Björn Kulin- and consultancy PwC – with their customers. Hermes Ger- tive is to devise standardised ski, Process Development Man- great success.” This enables many is committed to reducing methods for measuring envi- ager – Supply Chain Solutions the company to deliver quality CO2 emissions along the supply ronmental impacts. A transpar- at Hermes Germany, continu- documentation and reporting, chain – in any and every way ent and cost-by-cause carbon ing, “The Clean Cargo Working whilst creating the foundation possible. As a member of the footprint would give service Group creates a high level of for making further improve- industry initiative Clean Cargo providers and their customers transparency for ourselves and ments: “Hermes naturally ben- Working Group (CCWG), the the opportunity to minimise our customers.” The CCWG of- efits from the conversations it transport services provider is emissions per transportation fers, for example, a database of has with other CCWG mem- helping to improve the sustain- journey and to improve the all the CO2 emission factors per bers. Based on experience and ability of container shipping, to overall sustainability of con- carrier and trade lane. It also best practices, we can continue name just one example. Around tainer shipping. Initial success- calculates the average CO2 to optimise our own methodol- 90 percent of global trade is es are already visible: The data emission factors per sea freight ogy and logic on an ongoing transported across our seas – published by the Initiative for route. Moreover, the CCWG re- basis.” and the number of freight jour- 2016 reveal that CO2 emissions cords data from all carriers and Incorporating greater sustaina- neys is increasing by the day. have been cut by 8 percent per for every ship, detailing the dis- bility, Hermes Germany is pro- The German Federal Environ- kilometre and standard con- tances travelled, maximum ca- gressively making it easier for ment Agency anticipates an an- tainer against the year before. pacity and consumption over its customers to incorporate nual climb in the number of The 45 members of the CCWG the year. the factor of climate protection global shipping journeys of be- Initiative include leading ship- Every year, the CO2 factors col- in their planning, scheduling tween 2 and 3 percent until ping companies. The big indus- lated by the CCWG are fed into and choice of carrier. Hermes is 2020. This may well be fuelling try players such as DB Schenk- Hermes’ in-house Data Ware- able to provide with all the nec- global economic growth, but it er, DHL and Hapag Lloyd share house which stores the model essary information from a sin- also has serious implications the table with Hermes Germa- and base information for its gle source. Once the custom- for the climate and the eco-sys- ny who joined the initiative for carbon footprint, paving the er’s objectives and require- tems of our oceans. After all, 7 environmentally clean logistics way for a largely automated ments are clear, Hermes can all percent of global greenhouse in 2015. “For us and standardised calcu- the relevant data regarding gas emissions can be attributed and many other lation of its CO2 their customers’ environmental to container shipping. Leading performance. agents in cargo shipping, in- [www.hermesworld.com] cluding shipping companies, loading agents and

Climate protection – ahoy! Photo: Fotolia

9-10/2017 | textile network 49 business

Steps towards achieving perfect product content Efficient content production for e-commerce

product communication takes budget- and quality-oriented German market nowadays. place. In order to be able to manner. For product images The solution that you decide make use of every channel, it and texts, the first step is to on is ultimately a matter of is crucial that all information develop a so-called style guide taste. It is important to clearly about the product is kept cen- which precisely specifies the define your own requirements trally. A great deal of support requirements for content to be and to keep intuitive user guid- is offered here, for example by created. The imagery is devel- ance in mind. It may be impor- a PIM system (Product Infor- oped together with the art di- tant to add notes such as the mation Management) in which rectors of the photo studios desired retouching instructions all required product informati- and then defined in the style and to highlight the corre- on is stored in a structured guide, so that all the partici- sponding area in the image, way independent of the media pating service providers such particularly in the case of often used. as media production compa- complex release processes At least as important as cen- nies, product photographers, involving product managers, tral data storage is the approp- stylists, make-up artists, text e-commerce or advertising riate content. Even with so- and image specialists can real- agents. A system in which us-

Photos: Laudert GmbH + Co. KG phisticated marketing proces- ize their content on this basis. ers can only accept or reject is With the help of CGI (Computer Generated ses, the products do not sell if This is the only possible way of the wrong choice here. A me- Imagery), products can be marketed that there is no content suitable for achieving a consistently high dia production company that do not yet exist e-commerce and catalogs. It is and uniform quality. stands in an advisory capacity therefore important to appeal knows the market and also, as Even when marketing process- to consumers with content 2. Intelligent IT processes a service provider, takes over es are excellent – if no suitable that is attractive and can be As in many other areas, effi- the content production. content is available in e-com- produced quickly and cost-ef- cient production is closely merce, the products do not sell. fectively. linked to the use of modern IT 3. The Content Process Efficient work-flow, consistent systems. This also applies to Once the style guide and the product marketing and a uni- Pioneers in efficient content production, for which procedure are defined, content versal customer experience are content production tailor-made software exists; production can begin. the prerequisites for attracting Nevertheless, this is exactly special studio software that al- > On the basis of an Excel list customers through high-quality what poses difficulties to many lows you to plan, coordinate, and agreed standards, every visual and textual content. But companies. Here are a few tips and monitor large-scale con- product group generates indi- how can companies efficiently on what is important in content jobs throughout the pro- vidual content jobs with the produce and manage product tent marketing and how com- duction process. There are special studio software. This content to become even more panies succeed in successful quite a few suppliers on the makes it possible to determine profitable? content production: Whether via the web shop, SEA/SEO or social networks 1. The Preparatory Stage Good to know! such as Facebook, Instagram Product content for e-com- Efficient product content production is primarily the result of and Messenger services, there merce and catalogs consists intelligent IT processes. It is the basis for producing high- are now numerous ways to mostly of visual and textual quality and relevant content profitably and for distributing promote products, especially information. Standardization across all communication channels. Companies that make in e-commerce. The challenge and process optimization are use of a powerful media service provider can create content for companies is: The ever-in- the keys to success if one is to more efficiently. The result is creative; however, the way to creasing number of communi- manage the multitude of infor- it is highly standardized. cation channels through which mation efficiently and in a

50 textile network | 9-10/2017 Thanks to digital process control, the production of images, e.g. with Laudert-Con- tent-Flow, become highly efficient

The Faculty of Design and Culture at the Hochschule für Technik und Wirtschaft Berlin is seeking to appoint a professor (salary grade W2) for the following fields: Bachelor‘s and Master‘s programmes Clothing Technology/Fabric Holger Berthues is head of Laudert Studios at the Processing communications and IT service provider Laudert. Professorship The company uses the Laudert-Content-Flow stu- in Textile Technologies/ dio software as part of its content production. The software is based on modern web technologies Mechanical Engineering Fundamentals and allows the planning, coordination and imple- incl. Fabric Processing Machinery Ref. No. 473 mentation of large-volume content orders. The software is A comprehensive understanding of the clothing sector‘s value used daily by the 100 employees of the studios in Hamburg, generation chain represents a core competence in the fields of clothing technology and fabric processing. Both conventional fabric Vreden and Bad Waldsee, as well as by the retailing com- processing equipment and innovative machines and processes are panies and manufacturers cooperating with Laudert. key content focus points. We are therefore seeking a candidate with PhD-level qualifications who possesses a thorough knowledge of textile technologies with a focus on the range of machinery required to manufacture textile products. Applicants should also bring extensive experience in fields including textile processing technology from classic manufacturing all the way to innovative technologies. Know-how of the processing of textile products for clothing and for technical fields as well as for functional products are likewise required. In order to support content development in teaching and research, the successful candidate will have corresponding contacts in the industry and have already published his/her own research and development content. The ability to engage in interdisciplinary and project-based work is a further requirement. Professorship in CAD two- and three-dimensional product development for clothing and textile products Ref. No. 474

Two- and three-dimensional computer-assisted product development New paths in the production of content: Fusing CGI and conventional (2D CAD and 3D CAD) is a core competence in the clothing sector. model-based photography We therefore seek a candidate bringing exceptional professional experience preferably with PhD-level qualifications capable of representing this field in teaching and in applied research. The precisely which content was enriched with meta-informa- position requires extensive practical experience in the contexts of industrial, computer-assisted and production-ready pattern ordered for which item. tion. By scanning the bar development as an interface to creative processes. Applicants should > The items, which are usually codes, e.g. with outfit photos, also possess know-how and experience in product development for textile products, clothing and technical fields, and in integrated marked with an item number, all the illustrated articles can functional solutions. Evidence of knowledge and experience in are made available by the pho- be saved as metadata. In the development and technical production is a further key focus, and candidates should also have a good understanding of design to or content service provider. shop, this information can be processes. They are each provided with retrieved for cross-selling pur- As HTW Berlin is seeking to develop the content of its teaching and research in this field, the successful applicant will have corresponding an individual barcode so that poses. industry contacts and should be able to present contributions they can be clearly identified > Various image processes – to research and development activities. The ability to engage in at every workstation. defined in advance – are auto- interdisciplinary and project-based work is a further requirement. For both: > Should product text also be mated so that templates, The position‘s teaching is mainly focused on the study programmes required, the item information knockouts, retouching or Clothing Technology/Fabric Processing and Fashion Design. Teaching skills must be evidenced via experience in education or training, provided can be supplemented metadata are generated. and the successful candidate must be able to teach modules in the by additional features, making > The content data are gener- German and English language. HTW Berlin supports equal opportunities within an environment free the work easier for the copy ally transmitted to the client of discrimination. As an employer, it offers conditions amenable to editors. via download, or uploaded di- balancing professional and family commitments and cooperates with the Dual Career Network Berlin. HTW Berlin is actively seeking to > In order to produce high- rectly via previously defined increase the number of female professors and therefore expressly quality product images, the interfaces, e.g. in the shop or encourages applications from female candidates. Severely disabled applicants shall receive preference in the event of comparable suitability. products are prepared in ad- the PIM system. Employment requirements for professorships are set out in § 100 of vance, i.e. cleaned, steamed or > As soon as all the order's the Berlin Higher Education Act (the Berliner Hochschulgesetz). Details of these requirements and further information can be found on our ironed. Afterwards, product tasks have been completed, website: http://www.htw-berlin.de/stellen-professuren. pictures, 360° images, videos the goods are returned to the We look forward to receiving your detailed application (in writing) and texts are created on the customer by the service pro- including evidence of your professional experience, which should be marked with the reference number 473 or number 474 and sent to basis of the style guide. vider. the Dean of the Faculty of Design and Culture at HTW Berlin in 10313 > The IT-supported process [www.laudert.de] Berlin by 20.09.2017. should allow image data to be [Holger Berthues]

9-10/2017 | textile network 51 WhoWerWer WoWoWhat WasWas Where || DerDer textiletextile| The textile BranchenführerBranchenführer suppliers guide Wer Wo Was | Der textile Branchenführer

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52 textile network | 9-10/2017 preview | imprint

The international premium magazine for the textile chain The next issue of will be published on 21th November 2017 and these are some of our topics: IMPRINT 15th year of publication · Issue 9-10/2017 ISSN 1612-5088, publication date: 08/22/2017 Publisher’s Meisenbach GmbH Address: Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a 96047 Bamberg/Germany Postfach 2069 Heimtextil 96011 Bamberg/Germany Phone: +49 951 861-0 The first trade fair of the year, Heim- Fax: +49 951 861-158 textil in Frankfurt is seen a measure of www.textile-network.com www.meisenbach.de the mood and the trends for the year Managing ahead. This important industry event Director: Ulrich Stetter for interior textiles, interior design and Head of interior trends features international editorial office: Sabine Stenzel Head of online Photo: TU Dresden manufacturers, trading companies and editorial office: Daniel Keienburg designers, showing their products and Manager sales / innovations to a wide specialist au- distribution/ marketing: Christian Matthe dience. Many major players have al- Editor-in-chief: Dipl.-Ing. Iris Schlomski ready announced that they will be par- Phone: +49 5527 979440 3D product development Fax: +49 5527 979441 ticipating from 9 to12 January 2018. Nordhäuser Straße 34 Researchers and commercial suppliers 37115 Duderstadt/Germany around the world have set their sights [email protected] Editorial Staff: Anja Menzel (Assistenz) on making the design of apparel more Phone: +49 951 861-117 replicable and to conduct it with a Fax: +49 951 861-170 [email protected] computational connection to a virtual Contributing Iris Schlomski, Reiner Knochel, Mara body. The objective is to create basic Michel, Neli Mitewa, Hans-Werner Oertel, Sonja Langer-Korsch, Vicky 3D designs with an excellent fit. The Sung, Ilona Schulz, Ingrid Sachsen- Technical University of Dresden has maier, Manik Mehta, Robert Mothes, been taking a closer look at this field Dirk Zschenderlein, Holger Berthues Advertising Sales: Bernd Raithel in a research project entitled “3D pro- Phone: +49 951 861-145 duct development for apparel desig- Fax: +49 951 861-161 [email protected] ned on the basis of parametric human Advertising Matthias Fichtel models”. Administration: Phone: +49 951 861-169 Photo: Messe Frankfurt Fax: +49 951 861-161 [email protected] Responsibility: Responsible according to the German press law for Editorial: Dipl.-Ing. Iris Schlomski for Advertisement: Bernd Raithel (both: Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a, 96047 Bamberg/Germany) Layout: Andrea Mühl, Timo Wiesmann

Photo: H. Stoll Print: Schleunungdruck GmbH Photo: Anja Gockel Eltertstraße 27 97828 Marktheidenfeld/Germany Sales: Ulla Schiel Phone: +49 951 861-101 Fax: +49 951 861-158 [email protected] Distribution: Meisenbach GmbH Reader's service textile network Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a 96047 Bamberg Phone: +49 951 861-101 Fax: +49 951 861-158 [email protected] Subscription charge: textile network (12 issues p.a., thereof 6 double issues). Germany: EUR 130.00 (incl. VAT and postage) Europe: EUR 151.00, Overseas: EUR 181.00 Anja Gockel The magazine and the individual contributions and illustra- “I need content and I see myself as an Digitalisation tions contained therein are all protected by copyright. Once the publisher has accepted the manuscript, the publication artist. I need topics, I need something Digitalisation is the magic word! Stoll, rights, the translation rights, the reprint rights, the electronic that kindles a passion inside me. This the well-known manufacturer of flat database storage rights, the right to manufacture offprints, photocopies and microcopies pass onto the publishing passion, this craving to follow a visi- knitting machines covers the entire house. Any utilization that violates the boundaries set down by copyright law is not permitted without the prior consent on. I find that incredibly exciting and supply chain for flat knitting produc- of the publishing house. The forwarding of unrequested articles and information to the publisher automatically implies enthralling. I sometimes feel as tion. From the design idea and its de- that revocable consent has been granted to the publisher to though you have to die small deaths velopment right the way through to save the articles or information supplied in a database which is administered either by the publishing house or a third to follow his visions”, says Anja Go- its production! We spoke to CEO And- party cooperating with the publishing house. ckel. Our interview with the Designer reas Schellhammer about the IoT tech- The current advertising rate card is issue 14 dated October of the Year 2017. nology from Stoll. 2016. © 2017, Meisenbach GmbH

9-10/2017 | textile network 53 Zu guter Letzt Photos: Christian Wind Vienna A source of inspiration Designers never looked at the art and crafts of the common people as lesser or repugnant, rather it constituted a source The Vulgar - of inspiration for them. Christian Lacroix, for instance, often incorporates or reinterprets the traditional costume of his home town Arles in the south of France in his creations. In- Fashion Redifined deed, designers today place increasing value on reviving traditional handicraft and local styles in homage to their pletho- This spring the exhibition “The tasteful has always been de- ra of diverse shapes and forms and in an attempt to prevent Vulgar – Fashion Redefined” at fined by the ruling classes, the valuable traditional skills from being lost. Prince Eugene’s Winterpalais church and nobility throughout After popular culture claimed its place in “high art” through tested the limits of “good” history. These notions served the emergence of pop-art, everyday culture began to receive taste. Stunning fashion designs as a juxtaposition to distance recognition. Similarly, products that have “passed through spanning from the Renaissance themselves from the ordinary too many hands”, i.e. mass-produced items, have brushed until the present day illustrate masses and claim certain pre- off their vulgar label. Even haute couture has discovered dis- the multifaceted concept of rogatives, thus becoming an posable products and materials for itself and transforms vulgarity. Against the backdrop expression of unassailable hier- them into desirable objects. Luxury brands are also taking of the opulent Baroque rooms archy and the boundary be- inspiration from the entertainment world: Disney’s Bambi appears on oversized prints by Givenchy, Moschino wittily of the palace the display in- tween the “higher” elite and twists popular slogans, and Jeremy Scott makes humorous cluded extraordinary examples the “lower” populace. As such, (fashion) statements around issues such as fast food and of historical fashion, iconic cre- the term “vulgar” is a symp- brand piracy in the fashion industry. “Ordinary” denim has ations by Christian Dior, Elsa tom of clashing and synergetic become more than “just” workwear: Nicolas Ghesquière ma- Schiaparelli, André Courrèges cultures and classes. kes it sparkle for Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu as well as visions of contempo- How much naked skin is accep- combines denim with iconic turn-of- rary designers such as Gareth table before it becomes vulgar? the-century styles all the way Pugh, Walter van Beirendonck, Vulgarity lies in the eye of the through to the sophisticated silhou- Viktor & Rolf, Martin Margiela beholder. Fashion invokes its ette of the 50s. Definitely no off- and others. Mme Grès’ divine power in a game of self-image the-rack teen or work clothing. dresses with elegant drapery and manipulation. The body is The ordinary can thus be befitting a Goddess and Iris van vulgarised both through the extraordinary – thanks to Herpens’ alien creations elicit- presence and absence of fashion. It also re- ing spontaneous exclamations clothing. And what exaggera- mains for fashion to of “Mamma mia, che bello!” tion, overcoming shame, indul- answer the question: initially elude associations with gence, pomp and kitsch were “If striving for excess vulgarity. Only once visitors im- to vulgarity, the white collar becomes the norm – then merse themselves in the cura- was to purity and asceticism in what is vulgar?” tors’ exploration of the subject the 17th century. The exhibi- will they be able to look at tion included exquisite and ex- Impressions the exhibition them from a different point of pertly hand-crafted examples “The Vulgar – Fashion Rede- view. Like fashion, taste is with the most intricate details. fined” at Prince Eugene’s changeable. Both rely on “mo- The ordinary can thus be ex- Winterpalais in Vienna bile concepts” as defined by traordinary – thanks to fashion. the predominant attitudes as It also remains for fashion to well as cultural and societal eti- answer the question: “If striv- quettes of each era. What was ing for excess becomes the to be considered good, bad, norm – then what is vulgar?” pretentious, common or dis- [Neli Mitewa]

54 textile network | 9-10/2017 Photo: Belvedere Wien Photos: Christian Wind

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