Issue 04 01
Volcanic Wine Explosive wines from the world’s most hostile terroirs
A tale of the landless
Indigenous Italy
Natural Wine - The great debate 02
(I’d Lava glass)
Design and illustration by Matt Ellis Cover image: Mount Etna eruption December 2015, by Giuseppe Torre 03
IssueNov 2018 04 The two most wine-soaked months of 2018 are ahead of us. We’re nearing the craziest, but most rewarding time of the year when it comes to bars, restaurants and independent wine shops. It seems that consumers, our guests, are more and more concerned about what they’re drinking. Wine of course, but what kind? How and where was it made? What were the rocks like below the vineyard? If consumers are asking more questions, then we have to be ready with the answers. In our fourth issue of Fine Lees we are Originally a sommelier – and looking for answers to some of today’s most exciting vinous a journalist in a previous life questions: natural wine, volcanoes, and the economics of the – Gergely joined Bibendum garagiste. after years spent at Gordon The legendary Willie Lebus tackles the question of ‘natural’ wine Ramsay group and a year from the most important, hedonistic aspect, while Jess Broadbent detour at Sager and Wilde. He climbs to some of the highest volcanoes with our great ‘volcanic’ is now part of the Bibendum producers. The journey leads through Sicily, Northern-Hungary and Santorini, to decipher the secrets of volcanic wines and all Fine Wine sales team and the buzz around them. a Business Development Can we call someone a winemaker who doesn’t own a vineyard? Executive. As a side project, Is buying grapes the ultimate evil or is it a way to save a wine G makes wine in his native region’s diversity? The vineyard economics is a lesser-known Hungary, a dry Furmint from – but in our case very important – branch of science. Christina Tokaj to be precise. Schneider considers different business models in her article Follow him @gergelywine about landowners and grape-buyers. And finally, Douglas Blyde takes a trip through Italy in search of all the indigenous grapes with our Italian expert Mauro Segatta. The cellars are almost full, the Christmas bookings are in; the season’s upon us. We hope that our latest issue will provide enough reading and wine knowledge for the breaks in-between long shifts. Cheers,
Gergely Barsi Szabo 04
A TALE OF THE
landlessby Christina Schneider, Bibendum Ambassador
The Vietti vineyards, Piedmont 05
I read an article on estate wine Today Garage Wine Co. makes only 1,500 cases of wine from 11 different plots, many of which recently, which opened with a are field blends, and in the process they support statement that went a little like a number of farmers who would otherwise have this: “When you see a wine a hard time selling their fruit at fair prices. I was absolutely certain that this David versus Goliath described as ‘estate’ on the label, model, supporting the little guy and promoting it means it’s something pretty weird and wonderful grape varieties and field special and you can see it as a blends, was the real deal. sign of quality”. But wait! Surely they can’t both be right, right? I had to dig a little deeper… This made me think of two very different conversations I have had with two very different The ‘real’ real deal winemakers over the last few weeks. One of them was Elena Currado from Vietti, whose Most of us have grown up in the wine world, family has been making wine in Piedmont often considering those who buy grapes as since the 19th Century. Elena was talking the big, bad wolf: big Champagne houses proudly about the winery’s heritage and their and négociants making huge volumes of own vineyards, planted by her father-in-law supermarket quality wines – and a lot of money and his father-in-law before that. She was also doing so – on the back of the growers who do jokingly referring to her husband as a farmer, all the work, while getting little credit or money who spends more time in the vineyard than at for it. Although producers like Louis Jadot and home, and she kept stressing the importance Bollinger make exceptional wines from bought of growing their own fruit. I was convinced the fruit, we tend to believe that the best of wines romantic, historic, family-owned estate winery can only come from those who are in total was the real deal. control of what happens in the vineyard and that for this to be the case, you have to own (or The other conversation was with Pilar Miranda, rent) the land. one third of the Garage Wine Co., who makes tiny quantities of single plot wines in the Maule Certainly, there is a lot of truth to that argument and Maipo Valleys in Chile. Her story started and no-one can debate that farming your about 10 years ago, when she, her husband own grapes is the only way to ensure that no Derek Mossman Knapp and their friend Alvaro shortcuts are ever taken. It also feels right to Pena started making wine in their garage with buy wine made by those who do all the work just eight barrels, mostly by hand. Fruit was themselves, who get their hands dirty. Another sourced from small growers who couldn’t supply reason customers might choose an estate-grown the quantities that the ‘big guys’ were after and wine, is the sense of place that comes with it – who sometimes didn’t even know what was being able to trace exactly where things come growing in their fields. from has never been more important to people. 06
So estate-grown fruit is the real would have passed before any money comes deal, the only real deal? Well, in. And what if people are totally over orange Aligoté by then? not quite… Let’s head back to Pilar and Garage Wine The sheer cost and the long time it takes often Co. Big bad wolf? Certainly not. Control in prevent estate winemakers from taking risks, the vineyard? Yes – and here it comes down and understandably so. The landless (and to relationships. Some of the growers have sometimes even winery-less) approach makes a worked with Pilar, Derek and Alvaro from the lot of things possible that wouldn’t make sense beginning; the farmers know exactly what they for an estate winery. But there’s not just upsides are looking for and doing. Those relationships for the consumer and the start-up winemaker. are long-term partnerships, beneficial to both There’re also upsides for farmers, who might sides. As for the sense of place, every Garage not own enough land to justify the investment wine comes with a plot number and a bottle of having a winery on it, or who might not even number. The 11 plots they source from add up want to be a winemaker to start with. to around 4ha in total, which means the average size of a plot is a mere 0.35ha. I would say it In the end, it doesn’t really matter whether or doesn’t get more precise than that. not a winemaker owns land, but whether or not they care about what they do and whether they respect the terroir and the community around A landless identity them. I’m sure Elena and Pilar would both More and more ‘landless’ winemakers are agree. popping up, and these are often young, innovative people who make up for their lack of funding with passion and ideas. Starting a winery from scratch isn’t easy – or cheap! Buying a vineyard is pretty much impossible, unless you’re a celebrity dreaming of making Born where the Rhine and rosé in the south of France, or a hedge fund Mosel meet, Christina is a proper tycoon, realising your dream after watching Sideways. wine and spirits geek, with a particular love of Riesling (perhaps Often, the only way to do it for fresh-out-of- unsurprisingly). While starting out school oenologists, ex-sommeliers or rebellious as a professional horse trainer – and wine royalty offspring is to buy grapes taking a detour while studying and sometimes house-share with friendly winemakers, or even to buy juice or young maths – she’s spent the last 18 years wines; basically becoming micro-négociants, working in hospitality, running both as they call it in Burgundy. The upside to this is bars and restaurants in Berlin, Paris easy to see: more innovation and more variety, and London, notably at Happiness being able to react to trends much quicker, Forgets and Som Saa. making wine for the here and now. You want to make an orange Aligoté? If you had to buy the land, plant Aligoté, wait until you have decent fruit, buy Quevri, make wine and sell it, 10 years Derek Mossman Knapp (Garage Wine Co.) in fruitful negociations 07 08
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