Plan Your Trip 12 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Buenos Aires
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Isabel Albiston Contents
PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4
Welcome to Buenos If You Like...... 18 Entertainment...... 34 Aires...... 4 Month by Month...... 20 Shopping...... 37 Buenos Aires’ Top 10...... 6 With Kids...... 22 Sports & What’s New ...... 13 Activities...... 40 Eating...... 24 Need to Know ...... 14 Tango...... 44 Drinking & Top Itineraries...... 16 Nightlife...... 30
Explore Buenos Aires 52
The Center...... 56 La Boca...... 98 Palermo...... 127 Puerto Madero...... 70 Retiro...... 104 South of Palermo...... 148 Congreso & Recoleta & Barrio Day Trips from Tribunales...... 76 Norte...... 111 Buenos Aires...... 155 San Telmo...... 85 Belgrano, Nuñez & the Sleeping...... 167 Costanera Norte...... 122
Understand Buenos Aires 179
Buenos Aires Today.....180 Music...... 192 Art & Architecture...... 199 History...... 182 Literature & Cinema.... 195
Survival Guide 203
Transportation...... 204 Language...... 219 Directory A–Z...... 210 Index ...... 226
Buenos Aires Maps 232 ROCHARIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK © GABRIEL MASLIAH/500PX © o o r t e r 0 d e 7 a u p P M a 8 c a 9 o L p B r o e 5 n e t m o a 4 l 8 r h n 56 i e S T p e 0 t p T 1 e C R p & s
e o l a o t i s a e 6 r 1 e e n t
l r 7 r 1 r u a o 1 g p o b c B n i p
N e r o & R T C (grill) Meat cooking on on cooking Meat
Floralis GenéricaFloralis Decorative bottles bottles Decorative
o parrilla m r (p85) (above) a (right) (p114) sculpture by Catalano Eduardo (left) at a market in San Telmo e l PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET © o a 7 m P r 2
48 f 1 e l 1 o p
a p h P t u o S e t r e , o h o t N
n 2 a & a r r 2 z e g 1 e l n p ñ e a t u B s N o C ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 16
Top Itineraries
Day One Day Two
San Telmo (p85) Palermo (p127) M Stroll through this colonial neighbor- M Walk (or take a bike ride) along Paler- hood’s cobbled streets and window- mo’s Parque 3 de Febrero, where shop for antiques. Come on a Sunday, when you can also visit a rose garden, botanical the famous Feria de San Telmo street mar- garden and Japanese garden. Bike paths are ket takes over the neighborhood. Book a tour laced throughout. to the stunning El Zanjón de Granados for a peek into the city’s origins. Lunch Big Sur (p133) is great for a burger and a pint of craft beer. Lunch Snag a sidewalk table at Bar Plaza Dorrego (p93) for great Palermo (p127) people-watching. Visit MALBA, a beautiful art R museum showcasing the collection of art patron Eduardo F Costantini. The La Boca (p98) Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo is The colorful corrugated houses another must-see; it’s a beaux-arts mansion R along El Caminito are indeed pho- that once belonged to a Chilean aristocrat, togenic, though this area is a bit of a tourist and is full of his posh belongings. Finally, trap. It’s still fun, however; check out the Evita fans can’t miss Museo Evita, which souvenir shops and artists’ paintings and chronicles the life of Argentina’s most inter- perhaps catch a street-tango show. Art lovers nationally famous woman. shouldn’t miss Fundación Proa, a cutting- edge gallery, while soccer fans can head to Dinner For an excellent steak, get a La Bombonera Stadium and visit the Boca table at Don Julio (p134). team’s Museo de la Pasión Boquense. But don’t stray too far from the tourist hordes; Palermo (p127) La Boca is at times a sketchy neighborhood. Palermo is nightlife central. There N are dozens of bars to check out, and Dinner Reserve for Café San Juan people come from all over to dance at the (p92), serving exceptional interna- famous clubs here. Begin with wine at Pain tional cuisine. et Vin, a cocktail at Verne or craft beer at Bluedog or On Tap.
San Telmo (p85) If it’s Wednesday or Sunday, take a N tango class then watch the dancing and the live tango orchestra at Maldita Milonga. Or go drinking at one of the many great watering holes in the area, such as Doppelgänger, an upscale cocktail bar. SPECTRAL-DESIGN /SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Puerto Madero Day Three Day Four
The Center (p56) Recoleta & Barrio Norte (p111) M From leafy Plaza San Martín, M Explore Recoleta’s famous ceme- walk south on pedestrian Florida tery; you can wander for hours and experience masses of people shopping, among the crumbling sacrophagi and mar- busking, selling or just power-walking to ble angels. It’s a veritable city of the dead, their next destination. You’ll eventually fascinating and mysterious; to seek out come within a block of Plaza de Mayo, the Evita’s tomb, just follow everyone else. heart of Buenos Aires. This historic plaza is surrounded by Casa Rosada, Catedral Lunch Have empanadas at El San- Metropolitana and Cabildo. juanino (p117), one of the area’s few cheap eateries. Lunch For outside seating and fresh offerings, try i Central Market (p74).
Recoleta & Barrio Norte (p111) Check out the Museo Nacional Puerto Madero (p70) R de Bellas Artes, Argentina’s top Lined with renovated old brick classic-arts museum. Just north is Flora- R warehouses, Puerto Madero is re- lis Genérica, a giant metal flower whose plete with fancy lofts and apartment tow- petals open during the day and close at ers, plus some of the city’s most expensive night (when the gears are working!). And (and some say overpriced) restaurants. It’s if you’ve got the bucks, the city’s most a very scenic and pleasantly vehicle-free expensive boutiques are along Avenida place to stroll the cobbled paths along the Alvear, worth a stroll to eyeball some dikes. Art lovers shouldn’t miss Colección huge old mansions. Visit Museo de Arte de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández highlighting the collection of Argentina’s Blanco and Palacio Paz, in nearby Re-
Dinner Casual but excellent Peruvian Dinner Looking for the locals? Then can be had at Chan Chan (p82). head to classic Rodi Bar (p117).
wealthiest woman. For a shot of nature, tiro, if you like gorgeous palaces filled with visit Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. antiques.
Congreso & Tribunales (p76) Retiro (p104) Take in an opera, ballet or classical- Time to drink up: Florería At- N music show at Teatro Colón, N lántico is a basement speakeasy Buenos Aires’ premier theater. The tradi- located within a flower shop selling tional entertainment district of Avenida cocktails and house-brewed gin, while ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 232 Buenos Aires Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway/Subte station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book MAP INDEX BELGRANO 1 The Center (p234) 2 Puerto Madera (p236) LAS 3 Congreso & Tribunales (p238) CAÑITAS Río de la Plata Ð"8 Parque 3 de 4 San Telmo (p240) Febrero 5 La Boca (p242) COLEGIALES PALERMO Ð"6 6 Recoleta & Barrio Norte PALERMO CHICO (p244) PALERMO PALERMO 7 Retiro (p246) HOLLYWOOD VIEJO PALERMO 8 Belgrano, Nuñez & the RECOLETA 1 C1em1ente1rio d1e SOHO Ð"7 Costanera Norte (p249) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1la C1hac1arita1 9 Palermo (p250) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 BARRIO RETIRO 10 South of Palermo (p254) 1 1 1 1 1 VILLA NORTE Dársena 1 1 1 1 1 CRESPO Norte 1 1 1 1 1 Ð"2 1 1 1 1 1 Ð"9 Ð"1 Reserva Ecológica ABASTO Costanera Sur ALMAGRO TRIBUNALES LA CITY Laguna de las ONCE MICROCENTRO Gaviolas Laguna CONGRESO de los CABALLITO BALVANERA Patos
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4 3 2 5 1 CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES Map on p238 æ Top Sights (p78) 14 Chiquín ...... D3 28 Teatro Paseo la Plaza...... D3 1 Museo Botica del Ángel ...... E7 15 El Cuartito ...... E1 29 Teatro San Martín...... D3 2 Palacio Barolo ...... E5 16 Parrilla Peña...... D2 3 Teatro Colón...... F2 17 Pizzería Güerrín...... E3 þ Shopping (p84) 18 Plaza Asturias...... F4 30 Zivals...... C3 æ Sights (p79) 4 Centro Cultural San Martín ...... D3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p83) Ø Sports & Activities (p208 Museo del Agua y de la Historia Sanitaria...... (see 7) 19 El Gato Negro ...... D3 31 BA Free Tour...... D5 5 Museo Judío de Buenos Aires...... F1 20 Los 36 Billares...... F4 6 Obelisco ...... F3 21 Los Galgos ...... C2 ÿ Sleeping (p171) 7 Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes...... C2 32 Gran Hotel Oriental...... C4 8 Plaza Lavalle...... E2 ý Entertainment (p83) 33 Hostel Estoril ...... E4 9 Teatro Nacional Cervantes...... F1 22 Café de los Angelitos...... B5 34 Hotel Bonito...... E7 Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas ...... (see 23) 35 Hotel Lyon...... C4 ú Eating (p80) 23 Cosmos-UBA...... B3 36 Hotel Marbella ...... F4 10 Aramburu...... F8 24 El Beso...... C3 37 Imagine Hotel...... E7 11 Aramburu Bis ...... F8 25 Espacio INCAA Gaumont...... D4 38 Livin' Residence...... C2 12 Cadore...... D3 26 Tango Porteño...... F2 39 Novotel Hotel...... E3
13 Chan Chan ...... E5 27 Teatro Avenida...... F5 40 Sabatico Hostel...... E7
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4 3 5 2 1 RECOLETA & BARRIO NORTE Map on p244 æ Top Sights (p113) 12 Persicco...... D4 25 Comme Il Faut ...... F6 1 Cementerio de la Recoleta...... D4 13 Rodi Bar...... D5 26 El Ateneo Grand Splendid...... D7 2 Centro Cultural Recoleta...... D4 14 Un Altra Volta ...... D4 27 Feria Artesenal Plaza Francia...... D4 28 Fueguia...... E5 æ Sights (p114) û Drinking & Nightlife (p117) 29 Galería Bond Street ...... D7 3 Basílica de Nuestra Señora del 15 Buller Brewing Company...... D4 30 Memorabilia...... F6 Pilar...... D4 16 Clásica y Moderna ...... D8 31 Patio Bullrich...... F4 4 Facultad de Ingeniería...... C4 17 Gran Bar Danzón...... F6 5 Floralis Genérica...... C2 18 La Biela...... D4 Ø Sports & Activities (p213) 6 Museo Participativo de 19 Milión ...... E7 32 VOS...... E7 Ciencias...... D4 Pony Line Bar ...... (see 36) 7 Palais de Glace...... E3 20 Shamrock...... D6 ÿ Sleeping (p174) 33 Alvear Palace Hotel...... E4 ú Eating (p114) ý Entertainment (p118) 34 Art Suites...... B5 8 Como en Casa...... C6 21 Notorious ...... D7 35 Ayres de Recoleta...... C4 9 Cumaná...... D6 22 Teatro Coliseo ...... F7 36 Four Seasons...... G5 10 El Burladero...... C5 23 Unión de Rugby de Buenos Aires ...... C5 37 Hotel Lion D'or...... C5 11 El Sanjuanino...... E4 38 Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt...... E4 Elena...... (see 36) þ Shopping (p119) 39 Petit Recoleta Hostel...... B6
L'Orangerie...... (see 33) 24 Buenos Aires Design ...... D3 40 Poetry Building...... C6
LETA & BA & LETA CO E R TE OR N O I RR 243 244 RECOLETA & BARRIO NORTE
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AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writer Isabel Albiston After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, squeezing in as many trips as annual leave would allow, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as a writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia was followed by four years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014, having been back in the UK just long enough to pack a bag for a research trip to Malaysia. She has contributed to five LP guides.
Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – Aug 2017 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78657 031 4 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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