ISSUE 2 | JANUARY 2020 Bonnets and Brass History of ’s Salvation Army

Luton Town hall Peace Day Riots Fire Brigade Luton’s Mayors Park Street Butchers Land Girls at St Mary’s Church The Jewish Community in Luton The Hatters Football Ground

£4.00 from the editor JANUARY 2020

5 Ashes to Ashes Luton’s first town hall by Sheryl Lindsey 7 The Luton Peace Day Riots A personal battle by David Kilby 8 Luton’s Fire Brigade Front cover: Mr and Mrs Day and family, And its role in the Luton Salvation Army (date unknown) 1919 Town Hall Fire by Greg Harrison Looking forward 10 From One Mayor to Another by Matthew Butcher Paul Hammond, January 2020 11 A Tale of Two Mayors Dillingham and Impey by Diane Cullen 12 Take a Butchers at Park Street by Matthew Bujok ’d like to welcome all readers to the second edition of link and encourage grassroots organisations as well as Luton Heritage magazine. advising on matters such as the Town Centre Master 14 Land Girls at Luton Hoo The first edition sold out all of its 300 copies so Plan and implementing management plans for our five by Luton Hoo Estate Volunteer Project now we have comeback with a second with four conservation areas. I 16 St Marys Church additional pages – so I hope you agree that we still So – as we enter the new year there’s a mood of Discovering Luton’s Medieval Jewel provide excellent value even though the cover charge has anticipation, matched with desire to see Luton Heritage by Peter Adams raised slightly. published on a quarterly basis within 2020. In this Many thanks go to The Culture Trust | Luton who edition we look back at the commemoration of the 19 History of the Jewish Community in Luton agreed to sell the magazine at its venues, thus giving 1919 Town Hall fire as well as welcoming articles from by Sid Rutstein local people a number of accessible places to make their a number of the organisations being represented in our purchase. 2019-20 walk and tour programme. We are also pleased 20 Home for the Hatters Luton Town Football grounds We are also delighted that Luton Heritage won the to feature an article that highlights the history of the by Brian Webb Environmental prize at the November Love Luton Awards town’s Jewish community. Four decades ago the growing in recognition of our work with talks, walks and this Muslim community used the local kosher butchers as 23 publication. What with the Cultural Histories Community a source of halal meat before their own outlets became Past, Present and Future by The Heritage Team, Company also picking up a similar award for its work established. This co-existence was reinforced through Luton Culture Trust with the People,Power, Passion project this summer, it’s the ownership of the Road Synagogue passing good to see heritage picking up some silverware. over to those establishing a new mosque in the area. 27 The Fabergé Collection It has also been heartening to see a range of Please enjoy the articles and do get back to us with at Luton Hoo Data Sheet Specification Unit Target Past, Present and Future organisations and individuals coming together to provide insights and memories of your own as we seek to Grammage ISO 536 gsm 90 100 115 130 150 170 200 225 250 275by 300Luton350 Hoo400 Hotel450 a year-long programme of historical tours and walks chronicle the changing face of Luton. Thickness ISO 534 µm 78 87 101 114 135 156 194 203 225 250 282 347 412 477 around the town. The town hall, St Mary’s, Luton Hoo With thanks Brightness (illuminant D65/10˚) ISO 2470-2 % 101 101 101 101 101 101 101 101 30101 101Bonnets101 101 and101 Brass101 (D65/10°) mansion, football club and Walter Wrights hat factory CIE Whiteness ISO 11475 % 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128The128 History128 128 of 128Luton’s Salvation Army Opacity ISO 2471 % 92 93 94 96 98 98 99 99 98.5 99by 99Les99.5 Stonnell99.5 99.5 have joined together to provide rare access to buildings Gloss TAPPI 75° ISO 8254-1 % 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 and sites that present a cross-section of our heritage in an Roughness PPS ISO 8791-4 µm 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 - 1.5 - 1.7 1.9 2.0 2.0 Bulk ISO534 cm3/g 0.87 0.87 0.88 0.88 0.90 0.92 0.97 0.90 0.90 0.91 0.94 0.99 1.03 1.06 engaging manner. Relative Humidity (23°C) TAPPIEditor: 502 Paul% Hammond50 50 | Design:50 50 Berni50 Georges50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 Moves are afoot at the council to develop their heritage Published by Clive Mear, Haynes Mear Communications Ltd, 49 Fir Tree Close, Flitwick, MK45 1NY offer after appearing to be dormant for much of the last T: 07984 310055 I E: [email protected] I W: haynesmear.com decade. They have submitted a bid to the Heritage Lottery Fund to appoint a Heritage Enabler very much in the Contact Luton HeritageNovember via email 2016 at [email protected] or mobile 07841 514953. Please get in contact if you would like to receive a regular copy of the magazine. New contributors are always welcome. mould of their equivalent in the field of Culture and Paul Hammond is Chair of the Arts. Luton Heritage Forum and conducts regular historic Luton Central Library’s Local Studies collection contains material on all aspects of life in Bedfordshire, with special Efforts have been made to contact This role would establish a voice for heritage within guided walks around the town. the owners of the rights to photographs emphasis on Luton. There is also limited coverage of the neighbouring counties of and . in this non-profit-making publication. LBC and galvanise support for a town-wide strategy that The collection is located on the 1st floor of Luton Central Library. If you would like to raise issues of celebrates the past as well as linking with regeneration copyright then please contact editor For more information visit https://www.lutonculture.com/luton-libraries, email [email protected], Paul Hammond via the email address plans going forward. A heritage enabler would be able to or speak to a member of staff at any of our libraries. given on this page

22 3

An early 1880s photo of the town hall before the pub and shop either side were incorporated into the central structure Matthew Butcher Greg Harrison A proud Lutonian with strong Greg was born in Luton, educated links to the past of the town and in Luton and I has lived in Luton for grandson to twice mayor of Luton most of his life. After he retired, Alderman Hedley Lawrence MBE he became much more interested in his family history and as a result of that, the history of Bedfordshire and Luton in particular.

Sheryl Lindsay Born in Luton, Sheryl has a Brian Webb passion for family and local Brian was born in Luton and is history. She is descended from a life-long Luton Town fan as a long line of Lutonians, many well as a committee member of of whom worked in the hat “Hatters’ Heritage.” His website industry. thestrawplaiters.com uncovers the history of the club in the .

David Kilby David Kilby was born in Luton Peter Adams in 1939 and has always had an Peter has been based at St interest in Luton’s Public Houses of Mary’s, the town centre Parish which he currently has a collection Church of Luton since 2007, of over 1,000 photographs. where he is Director of its Centre for Peace and Reconciliation.

Diane Cullen Ashes to Ashes Sheryl Lindsay Diane is a Lutonian, born in . She belongs to the Friends Matthew Bujok of Luton Museum, Luton and District Matthew is a year 4 teacher Luton’s First Town hall Historical Society and local history with the Shared Learning group of Luton U3A Trust in Luton.

utonians have recently Austin, a solicitor. These men formed and . Three houses commemorated the the Luton Town Hall Company and and a garden occupied the space in centenary of the burning sold shares valued at £10 each. 1846. The Town Hall was constructed Sid Rutstein The Heritage Team, Ldown of their “old town The site chosen for the new by John William and sons and Sid is an elder at Luton United Culture Trust Luton hall”. It was the need for a public building was known as Cross Hill, designed by Evan Owen Williams Synagogue and is Pfredident of A progressive charitable trust that building where court proceedings originally a farm and stables located in the classical style of the day with Luton North Rotary. welcomes people to visit our venues could take place that first necessitated at the junction of the roads to Doric (Greek style) columns. It and enjoy their diverse programme of events. They work to build a brighter the construction of this building. opened on 27th August 1847 having future for arts and culture in Luton. The expansion of Luton’s population cost £2200 to build. The new building in the mid-nineteenth century had consisted of a basement, an entrance led to the establishment of a county The site chosen hall with two rooms on each side court in 1846 to deal with increases for the new and a large room straight ahead with Les Stonnell in crime. As there was no local building was two small adjoining rooms. A broad After careers with the Royal Navy Luton Hoo Hotel authority, it fell to local businessmen staircase led to a large assembly Luton Hoo is a 5 star hotel and BT, retirement saw Les take up to the south of Luton. They to provide the funding, most notably known as Cross room with a balcony. The smaller writing and so far he has two books conduct historical tours of Robert How, John Higgins and rooms were used for meetings and published and is currently in the Hill, originally a the listed mansion on request. process of writing a third novel. Richard Hazelhurst, who were straw rented out to organisations such as hat manufacturers, and Charles farm and stables the Luton Literary and Scientific

5 4 Luton Town Hall Luton Peace day riots

Left: a postcard view of the town hall circa 1910 with trams now in sight (commenced 1908)

Below: A modern day photo of the mayoral chain (found in the ashes of the fire,) the mace and a photograph of Henry Impey with his mace bearer John Rignall The Luton Peace Day Riots – A Personal Battle…

David Kilby Institution, the Savings Bank, the Great Northern Railway ticket office and the School Board, with the large ike any large families – my help the situation either and come hit by a brick – which hit him on the room being used by the police and mother was actually one of the day of the Peace Day Riots – head – that resulted in him having the County Courts. Upstairs, the ten (five boys and five girls) when Luton Town Hall was burnt to be removed from the main line of large assembly room was used for L– and like most families, down – George was just one of many action so he that could be treated for public meetings and entertainment. there are always some that just don’t such people called in to assist in the blow to his head. In 1856 a small clock and bell get on. Their personalities just clash. endeavouring to keep law and order. As the Town Hall was surrounded tower were added to the building Mum’s two brothers, George and George was apparently on duty at by what could only be classed as to commemorate the end of the Harry, never really got on and it the burning Town Hall when he was an ‘angry mob’, it wasn’t possible Crimean War. The clock was funded was believed to be because George to see or confirm who had actually by public subscription and the bell worked in an office whilst Harry thrown the brick that hit him but it chimed every hour. building using local bricks. Three destruction “The Luton Reporter” was a butcher, which he considered was known that Brother Harry was Uses of the Town Hall for social years later Luton received a Charter had referred to the destroyed to be a much more ‘masculine at the Town Hall and George had functions were many and varied, of Incorporation granting it borough building as; “by no means an employment’. Even years later indeed seen him there but when from science and art classes five times status and the first meeting of the imposing or particularly attractive Indeed, all of the brothers except Harry never ever other members of the family asked a week in 1871 to the appearance council took place in the Town Hall. building”. The paper also noted that George were all employed in manual outright, ‘Harry did you throw the of Miss De Montford, a mesmerist, It was now a local authority building, the town had outgrown the building employment, whilst George alone did admit to brick that hit your Brother George?’, in 1875. In My 1880 Luton Cricket the new borough council taking over 25 years earlier. In 1911 the council worked in an office. throwing the brick the answer they got was strictly non- Club held its annual concert at the the work of the old Board of Health. had petitioned a bill to build afresh George was also a ‘Special committal. In fact, Harry refused to Town Hall featuring “several London With lots of new departments more on the existing site and the Luton Constable’, which I suppose didn’t that hit his brother give any kind of answer. He just gave artistes” and in 1882 Reverend office space was required and in 1887 Corporation Act was passed to a knowing kind of smile that more of Arthur Mursell gave a lecture in the Belgium Arms pub next door was enable this eventuality. During 1913- less said it all. connection with the Luton Wesleyan purchased to become the office for 14 the Corporation were looking at Even years later Harry never ever Young Men’s Christian Association. the Sanitary Inspector, Tolls Collector the practicalities of building a new did admit to throwing the brick that In December 1889 the building and the Inspector of Weights and municipal building. The outbreak of hit his brother and to all subsequent hosted Sarah Thorne’s Dramatic Measures. In 1893 Rosson’s shop WWI would mean their plans were queries over the years only ever Company’ s play “Judge Not”. adjacent to the Town Hall, additional put on hold, although as late as 1918 answered with that smile that said Sadly, the Town Hall was never retail premises, a warehouse and a the Council considered putting the ‘I know everything but am saying financially successful. The County shop in Manchester Street were also idea of a new building to the public. nothing’. Court moved to a new building in acquired. The shop became the Food On 20th July 1919 Lutonians George, on the other hand, swore Stuart Street in 1858 and in 1873 Office. In 1879 a butcher’s shop and walking up George Street would find that it was Harry that had thrown a decision was made to sell and three cottages in Upper George Street their town Hall a burnt out ruin. the brick – he just couldn’t back it up dissolve the Town Hall Company. It were also purchased by the Council. All archives and relics, including with indisputable evidence. was eventually sold to the Board of Had fate not intervened with portions of a manorial roll from George and Harry never resolved Health for £2,125 in 1875. the burning down of the Town 1409, were destroyed. It would be a their differences to the end of their In 1873 “The Luton Times Hall in 1919 it is possible that the further seventeen years before the days and Harry took the mystery of and Advertiser” reported on the original building might have had building we see today occupied the ‘who threw the brick’ to his grave. remodelling and expansion of the to be demolished. Following the empty space left behind. Outside the town hall on riot day – notice the number of people wearing straw hats

6 7 Fire Brigade Fire Brigade

uton has had a Fire Brigade to attend the Town Hall fire. At this Opposite page: Fire brigade c 1890. From a ‘ Luton at Work and Play’ calendar 1988. Notation says ‘at the stables’, this was at their original station in Stuart Street; Above: Luton Fire Brigade formed this triumphal arch outside their station since 1836, when the time, there were 18 firemen, half of in St Mary’s Road to greet the Prince of Wales on November 17, 1926. The object of the Royal visit was to present new Brigade operated out of an whom were still volunteers. colours and drums to the 2nd Battalion, Beds & Herts Regiment. To the left of the fire station is St Mary’s School and Hall, Luton’s while in the background is the chimney of Luton Electricity Works. Lold shed in Stuart Street and, The rioters got into the Town with no horses, volunteer firemen Hall through the windows of the had to drag their machine through Food Office and started fires using Fire the streets by their own labour. Their piles of ration books and coupons. by stones being thrown, their brass fight the blaze, this time under police them had injuries to their bodies, one equipment was provided solely by At 10:25pm, the Chief Constable helmets giving some protection. As protection. However, missiles were had concussion and one had internal gratuitous contributions. Then, in put through a telephone call to a result of the constant barrage of continued to be thrown and attempts injuries. Brigade 1864, the Brigade was taken over by the Fire Brigade. The Chief Officer missiles from the hostile crowd, the were made to cut the hoses. All In 1930 Luton had the most The Local Board of Health and later, there decided that the Town Hall’s firemen retreated and returned safely the firemen were now at the scene serious fire in its recent history when – and its role in the in 1876, they came under the control internal hydrant should be enough to to the station. and water was being directed at the Vyse’s hat factory in Bute Street was 1919 town hall fire of the newly formed Corporation. extinguish the fires and four firemen Meanwhile, the fires began to take adjoining buildings to prevent the gutted and eight people were killed. A purpose-built fire station was were despatched from The Church hold and were boosted by the use of fire from spreading. Other hoses were In the midst of World War 2, our built in Church Street, next to St Street station. These men were petrol. The firemen made another being used to keep the rioters at bay. firemen were called to London to Mary’s Hall and opened in 1902. successful in controlling the original attempt to get to the Town hall and Finally, after the arrival of troops help fight blazes at the height of the Greg Harrison Telephonic communication was then fire in the Food Office, but other fires from Camp at 3:00 am, the Blitz. established with all the firemen. Up were being started elsewhere. area was cleared and the firemen The Church Street fire station until 1914 the firemen were part-time Then, disaster struck - the hydrant could concentrate on putting out was replaced by one in Park Street and voluntary and were called from failed and cut off the flow of water. A In the midst of the fire in the Town Hall which was at the end of the war on the site of their homes or places of work when call was made to the Fire Station and achieved by about 4:30 am. They the houses destroyed by a parachute there was a blaze. It was in 1914 that a Fire Engine was despatched from World War 2, our then remained busy damping down mine, before Beds County Council a nucleus of full-time firemen was the Station at 11:07pm. On arriving firemen were called smouldering material and pulling provided the then very modern recruited and the first Dennis motor at the Town Hall, the firemen began down internal walls that were in a station in Studley Road in 1956. engines began to replace the old to get the apparatus ready, but they to London to help dangerous state. (Extract from “Where They Burnt popular horses. were attacked by the crowd. The fight blazes at the Some 20 firemen attended the the Town Hall Down” by Dave On 19th July 1919, fire appliances fire engine was surrounded and Town hall fire and were in attendance Craddock, published by the Book left from the Church Street station damaged; the firemen were injured height of the Blitz between 15 and 30 hours. Most of Castle in 1999)

8 9 Luton’s Mayors Luton’s Mayors

n the two years spanning 1917 and 1919, Charles Dillingham From one and Henry Impey held the office Iof Mayor – but only one will be remembered for presiding over a mayor to town-wide disaster. Charles Dillingham was born in Cobden Street, Luton in 1859 with another his father Denbigh being a sawyer. He had 6 brothers and 2 sisters. At the young age of 21 the census states Matthew J Butcher he was a hat manufacturer and by the 1891 census he had married Ada and they had 6 children. His straw y grandfather Hedley hat manufacturing business was very Lawrence was 9 years prosperous being based in George old in September 1919 Street. In 1915 he handed over the A Tale of Two Mayors Mwhen, as a school boy directorship to his son Cyril. His attending Dunstable Road School, hobby was farming and he held 800 Dillingham and Impey he was presented with The Peace acres of land at Streatley. The family Day Medal. This medal was one of lived at Elm Lodge, New Bedford probably at least 7,000 distributed to Road. Diane Cullen schoolchildren in Luton. They had During these years he represented been paid for by the former mayor West Ward on the Council, with 27 John Henry Staddon, one of the years’ service. His persistence led not always agree with his views or Top: Dillingam’s hat factory (right) and Farmers music shop before the violence. Notice the directors of Vyse and Co. to the public baths being built in his persistent manner, we cannot but people in the top windows taking in the view; bottom: the same view after the riot with Staddon made the generous Waller Street which in winter served appreciate the lively interest he shows windows smashed and boarded up. donation after it had become clear Above: Matthew Butcher (the writer), as a baby, being held by his grandfather Alderman Hedley as the Winter Assembly Rooms in all matters’. It does sound as if Lawrence MBE at his inauguration ceremony as Luton Mayor, 1974; that very few people had considered bottom left: an example of the Peace Day medals being very popular for dances etc. Charles was rather a driving force. to stay away from the town for a the children of Luton when arranging He became Mayor of Luton in 1917 Henry Impey was born in Luton time, not only in the interests of the celebrations for Peace Day. In and he had only been in office two in 1865. Aged 16 he was working as himself and the Mayoress but also order to ensure a quality product not be impossible for them to deliver take part in and for those not inclined days when he had to escort King a shop assistant in High Town Road. for the town. He stated he did not paid for out of the local rates and before 20th August, and so as a there were clowns and Punch and George V around Luton. The Luton By 1891 he was Sanitary Inspector want to flee but wanted to talk to enough for all, Staddon had been consequence well after the July Peace Judy stalls offering entertainment. News stated, ‘he undertook his for Luton Council and by 1911 he the crowds on Saturday afternoon authorised to double the amount Day Celebrations. This was another The day finished with a firework duties admirably from the moment was Estate Surveyor. At the time he but his colleagues held him back donated from the original estimate of background element of complaint display to an estimated crowd of his daughter motored up in smart was appointed Mayor in November fearful of inciting the crowd more. £100. that fuelled the rioting in July. 25,000. driving attire to when he bid farewell 1918 the family were living at Chief Constable could also not Unfortunately, the medal order Staddon toured the schools of In his address to the Council in to the King and his party’. The Whitecroft in London Road. He had guarantee his safety. He stated that was made somewhat late and the Luton on the Monday and Tuesday June John Staddon had stated; “He opening address at his inauguration undertaken many years’ service on his wife was the only woman left manufacturer Messrs. Mappin before the children’s event of the 18th thought they were all anxious that if as Mayor was given by Henry Impey the Council and it was unfortunate in the town hall at 10 pm with the and Webb reported that it would of September handing out medals in a medal was given it should be one stating – ‘Councillor Dillingham is he was Mayor at the fateful time of crowds outside smashing windows bulk to the head teachers. The medals which the children would be tempted fearless in his expression. He upsets the town hall riots. A Luton Reporter and trying to get in. Mr Impey was were handed; “over to the children to retain, and not discard and forget us sometimes by how what I may call representative met Mr Impey on the dressed as a special constable and and pinned on their coats or dresses in a month or two.” My grandfather unkind straightforwardness but he Monday following the riots and was taken from the town hall by a back just before they formed up for the certainly valued and kept his medal. means right and, although some may told the Mayor had been advised entrance in Upper George Street at procession.” He left school aged 14 and 10.30 p m. It is believed he was taken The children started at Beech Hill then served a 5 year carpenters to the Bute Hospital on Dunstable and then processed down through apprenticeship with the firm of H.C. He wanted to talk Road and from there they left for George Street, along Park Street and Janes Ltd. He was elected to Luton to the crowds but Harringay. He resigned from the then into Luton Hoo. During the Council in 1937 representing the town council at the time of the celebrations they drank tea served Ward and began his first his colleagues held November 1919 elections having from 3 marquees and ate a mixture mayoralty 2 days after his 42nd him back fearful of subsequently moved to Lincolnshire of food supplied by Messrs. Slaters birthday in 1954, becoming the inciting the crowd where he died in 1930 at the age of of Park Square. There were plenty of first Quaker Mayor of Luton since 65. He is buried at Rothesay Road sporting activities for the children to William Bigg was elected in 1876. more cemetery.

10 11 Butchers Butchers

Opposite page, top: A colourised photo of the shop that had been in existence since the 1840s. Bottom: Mary Pike’s ‘Ham and Beef Shop’ to the left of Davis’ shop served a wide range of cooked meats – Taking a including in 1884 ‘a boar’s head ready for table and a 40-pound plum pudding’ Butchers at This page, top: Danny’s bed shop (previously Durrants Butchers) at 102-104 High Town Road Luton still features the inside Park Street and outside hooks used to mount the meat carcasses shown in these photos; Bottom: Butchers’ Matthew Bujok assistants of the day used to have to keep an eye out for vehicle splashes on the hung meat and wash it down regularly !

began researching my family members of the family, all praise his Many Pictures feature my great great tree some years ago, after seeing skills as being very accomplished in grandfather alongside Mr Davis, Many of the 19th ‘Who do you think you are’ the butcher trade. The family story often in a bowler hat and with the century images Ion TV. Although this article is goes that he would collect a chicken most flamboyant moustache. about Davis Butchers shop, it focuses from the back yard, and after he Davis butchers was originally show an illustrious on my Great Great Grandfather had dispatched it and plucked it, located at the very top of Park Street, array of poultry Harry Buckley. he would have to continue to hold just prior to Market Hill. The site I first became aware of Harry onto it as it would still be able to now is occupied by Off The Wall hung outside the Buckley on a cold Remembrance run around the shop. Born in 1865, (formally Yates). From various shop, attracting Sunday morning in about 1996, he was taken on at Davis butchers pictures, it was a hive of activity. The when my father was telling me about around 1880 and continued there as a building itself would have probably many an onlooker my heritage. Tales from various butchers assistant until around 1914. been considered rather old when my Great Great grandfather began working there in about 1881. It was by far the oldest building in the parade, probably being built around the 15th century. Many of the 19th century images show an illustrious array of poultry hung outside the shop, attracting many an onlooker. (a Health and Safety nightmare no doubt by todays standards!) modernisation scheme, the site was game at home in Slip End for the Unlike today, many buildings demolished around 1914, just prior Ludlows at Luton Hoo, where his were used until it was physically to the commencement of the First wife (my great great Grandmother) impossible for them to be repaired. World War. worked, until his early death around Judging by some of the later pictures Post closure and demolition, 1930. Hopefully in the not too (taken around 1910) the butchers was Tommy Davis moved to a shop on distant future I can update you on no exception, as a lot of dilapidation Church Street. Harry Buckley would my progress. is apparent, from broken slates have been about 49 years old by this along the canopy and more sadly point and unfortunately my research the lack of poultry hanging from into his later life is still on-going. the outside. As part of a town wide Family stories suggested he prepared

12 13 Land Girls Land Girls

Opposite page: Harvesting Onions at Luton Hoo with: Pearl Mr Daffurn Head Gardener Joy Betty Eileen;below: The Bothy, 2019; bottom: Walled Gardens, 2019 the first Wednesday in May to the last in September, with events and open days throughout the year. The Walled Garden volunteer project continues to ensure the history of the Walled Garden’s Land Girls and the wider history of the estate and garden is diligently researched and updated. There are various opportunities to attend tours and talks at Luton Hoo Estate and hear more about the many incarnations of the Walled Garden, together with the experiences of those whose lives have been intertwined with and effected by their connection with it. Perhaps you have a relative who has their own experience of Luton Hoo and the Walled Garden? If so, The Bothy was classified as a The girls would arrive and bring a please contact office@lutonhooestate. commercial rather than a residential National Health card, Unemployment co.uk and we will be in touch. building, enabling Luton Hoo to card and a Ration Book – and so claim extra cheese rations and a their interesting and adventurous fishing permit to benefit the girls. lives at Luton Hoo would begin! A housekeeper was employed to The Bothy is still at Luton Hoo Go to our website: Land Girls at Luton Hoo undertake supervision and cooking Estate, just outside the Walled www.lutonhooestate.co.uk to keep for ‘a training establishment for Garden’s walls, although it is now up to date, book tickets and hear Luton Hoo Estate Volunteer Project Women’s Land Army workers’ in the a private residence. The Walled about the latest events and follow us Garden Bothy. Garden is open to the public from on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram

he help of British the services in World War Two offered accommodation and training women is urgent and and attacks by German U boats in World War One and it reopened indispensable.’ These threatened the import of food. to accommodate the Women’s Land Twere the words on a First Rationing was introduced and every Army in World War Two. World War Women’s Land Army able-bodied person was used for food After an initial offer of rooms in two recruitment poster, encouraging production. The Women’s Land unfurnished cottages on the estate, the women to work on the land to Army that had been training and Bothy was used for the accommodation replace the 100,000 men who had working in and around Hertfordshire of between 16 and 20 girls. This gone to war. Despite the misleading in the First World War reformed and had been inspected and found to be title of ‘The Women’s Land Army’, began to recruit and train girls of acceptable. A list of rules was drawn this organisation was made up of between 17 and 30 years old. Luton up and leaders were selected from the young female civilians, commonly Hoo had been one of the estates that trainee Land Army girls. known as ‘Land Girls’, who worked in either agriculture, forage (haymaking The girls would arrive and bring a for food for horses) or timber cutting. National Health card, Unemployment 1939 saw fears of food shortages due to men leaving the land to join card and a Ration Book

14 15 St Mary’s Church St Mary’s Church

Opposite page: St Mary’s magnificat stained-glass window Above: View of St Mary’s Church from the Mall window St Marys Church that even the Home Counties have from Cardinal Wolsey, onetime Lord gold embossing, but its now white. It Discovering Luton’s Medieval Jewel to offer, a horror of car parks, one Chancellor to Henry VIII. Now, was a gift to the people of Luton from way systems, and hostile shopping stand and take in the grandeur of Queen Philippa, wife of Edward III, centres. Forget Slough O friendly what many hold to be one of Britain’s around 1340 after major fire and the bombs, come to South Bedfordshire.” finest Medieval churches. The plague had killed many townspeople. Peter Adams erhaps the view of St Marys building were to be able to speak Being so set apart from the rest of present church building dates from Step inside, walk around the font; Church in Luton town with its neighbouring buildings that the town rather sadly tends to isolate 1121-35, but it was extended over step out again, walk around it centre people know best would probably be its story. The it. However St Marys is keen to stand the next 200 years and its current and stop for a moment under the Pis through the window at church certainly inspires negative together with others and promotes footprint was in place in the mid towering arch of the West Tower. the far end of the Mall. Designed to commentary on the surrounding Luton’s unique heritage. So venture 1300’s. Its size alone is a mark of the Walk along the nave, the main showcase what has been described as buildings, whether by Lutonians, in with me into the church. You’ve wealth and importance of Luton at body of the church, and stand for a Luton’s Medieval Jewel the window or those venturing to the town to only a short time today, so let me that time. moment in the crossing - here the is often described as the one thing enjoy it’s beauty. For example, Simon whet your appetite with a look at Turning around you will see cross shaped form of the church the shopping centre’s architects Jenkins in his “ Thousand the things people come from miles the magnificent stone baptistry, layout is most obvious. Around us got right! Glimpsing the ancient Best Churches” typically writes: away to see. You’ll find it’s a building with the font inside. Many fonts are three more magnificent arches. Stand and take in building surrounded by trees can feel “The picture on the cover of the spoken of in terms of its uniqueness, have a grand cover, this is the only One opens to the chancel with its the grandeur of what as though you are glimpsing into a guidebook to Luton parish church is described by superlatives, and related one in England to have a walk-in choir pews and beyond them the different world. almost comical. The photographer to the great and good of English stone canopy. An extended family sanctuary and altar. The others to the many hold to be one I’m told beautiful people can feel contrives an angle that gives it a site history. along with godparents gathering to two transepts, distinguished by their of Britain’s finest guilty. Somehow by contrast with in rural woodland. In reality this fine We enter through the one of the baptise a child can all fit inside! The stained glass windows. The North them, everyone else seems lacklustre, Perpendicular church is set in some church’s three 500 year-old wooden baptistry would once upon a time Transept window, created in the late Medieval churches a bit dull. If St Marys Church of the worst urban development doors. The South door was a gift have been gaudily painted and with 1800’s celebrates those responsible

16 17 St Mary’s Church Jewish commnity

Clockwise from top left: Baptistry The Remembrance Day service at the war memorial outside Luton Town Hall in November 1952 was the first to be held there since 1945. This Barnard Chantry photo shows Jewish ex-servicemen outside the synagogue in Bury Park Road, preparing to parade to the town centre. Ariel view of St Mary’s Church The Wenlock Arch

for the churches early foundation – we will do the history lesson another time! By contrast, the south window is from the 1970s and is one of the finest windows by celebrated artist Alan Younger. Called the Magnificat Window, it imagines the emotions Mary the mother of Christ experienced as she learned that she, and unmarried virgin, was to bear a child who would be the saviour of the world. History of the Jewish Step into the chancel, and just before the altar on the right is the exquisite Barnard Chantry, a Community in Luton one-person chapel, reckoned as the smallest in England. Built to commemorate the life of Richard is unclear, though many hold it to It’s been a short visit but hopefully Barnard, vicar from 1477, its purpose be a leper chapel – the door to the enough to tempt one to come again. Sid Rutstein he first Jewish family settled thousand souls with the evacuees outside would enable lepers, unable And to recognise that abundance in Luton in around 1880 from London. This represented a to enter the church, to receive of superlative words, the long list and by 1912 there were turning point in the history of the communion. Take time to appreciate of unique features, and the regular Tabout five families living in Luton Jewish community and it was the fine carved stonework, especially evidence St Mary’s place on the the town. The first organised Jewish apparent that a new Synagogue and its ceiling. national stage, all make the church community meeting took place in Communal Centre were required. Across from the chancel is the something the town can be proud Duke Street on 23rd September So, in 1949, the Empire Cinema in Wenlock arch. It is described as of! Returning to where we started, to 1923 and it was resolved to form Bury Park Road was purchased. Europe’s finest late Medieval double step into St Marys really is to enter a a body called the Luton Hebrew The Empire Cinema had opened arch. Another St Marys great! It very different world. The membership Congregation. Until 1929 services as an independent cinema on carries the arms of Sir John Wenlock, now consists of and religious classes were held above 29th November 1921. Plans were resident of Someries Castle who was a factory in John Street. In 1929 a developed for the conversion of the buried in the tomb under it, after one hundred and minister was appointed and a house building and it was consecrated by he died in the Battle of Tewkesbury thirty people was purchased at 5 Moor Path and the Chief Rabbi, Dr Israel Brodie in in 1471. It opens to the Wenlock and the regular this was converted into a Synagogue 1953. At that time the congregation Chapel, full of gems from the which could accommodate about consisted of about two hundred churches 900 year life and which services and social ninety people. members and regular services were we must be sure to visit another and cultural events At the outbreak of war in 1939 held as well as religious classes and time, not least to sit on Queens there were about twenty five families social functions. There was a Youth Elizabeth’s seat! continue in Luton but this swelled to over two Club, Young Marrieds’ Group, Ladies

18 19 Jewish commnity Football Ground

Below left: The original glass windows from the Bury Park Road synagogue have been restored and installed at the new place of worship in Dunstable Road; below right: the Bury Park Road building before its sale in 2001.Bhavins cash and carry is to the left 2

Guild, Parent Teacher Association and building retained its religious use new Synagogue in Dunstable Road a Friendship Club for older members. and the location was much more was consecrated by the Chief Rabbi, By the late 1980’s it was apparent appropriate for the new owners Lord Jonathan Sacks. that new premises were required. The than it had been for the Jewish The membership now consists of membership was declining and aging community. one hundred and thirty people and and few members lived near to Bury For the next eight years the Jewish the regular services and social and Park. So, a protracted search was community had a series of temporary cultural events continue. begun to find new accommodation or homes. These ranged from Luton Furthermore, It is worth noting land upon which to build, and also to Town Hall, various community that since the appointment of the identify a purchaser for our building. centres and various houses. However, first minister in 1929, there After many false starts, the Synagogue in 2009 a disused doctor’s surgery have been full-time ministers in Bury Park Road was sold at the was purchased and work was almost continuously up to the end of 2001. The purchasers were undertaken to convert it into a present day. the Islamic Cultural Centre, so the Synagogue. On 27th June 2010 the

After the demise of Wanderers in the spring of 1887, Luton Town had more flexibility in the meadow. 3 Football Ground A Pavilion was built in the summer and autumn of 1890 and paid for by the brewer , J.W. Green, at a cost of £50. The Pavilion held spectators on the upper tier with changing rooms and a refreshment stall at ground level. Image 2 is a photo of the pavilion, taken Home for the Hatters in 1957.

The site was levelled in 1890 with cinder paths laid 1 The early years The first illustration (image 1) for the crowds who could watch cricket, athletics shows the Lane ground from and cycling. It was also the premier venue in the of Luton Town 1884 to 1887. The pitch nearest town for fairs, concerts, dog shows and other events. Football ground to Dunstable Road belonged to Excelsior from 1879 until 1885, In December 1893 a grandstand was built in the then Luton Town from 1885 until position shown in image 3. 1897. The other pitch belonged to Brian Webb Wanderers from 1884 until 1887. The grandstand could hold 400 people and image The ends were known as the railway/ 4 (on the next page) is the only photograph we gasworks end and the Dallow Lane/ have of it. I found this photo in pieces at Wardown Workhouse end. The illustrations Park Museum when working as a volunteer. They are not to scale. allowed me to take it away and restore it.

20 21 Football Ground The Hat factory

4 The Hat Factory Arts Centre reawakened on 6 September, 2019 with a spectacular artistic performance to crowds in Bute Street. Photo: mubsta.com Image 4 is the first known photo of Luton fans and you can just see the outline of the Workhouse in the background. The Hat factory Past, Present and Future The pitch in 1894 was 120 yards long by 70 yards wide. With the railway line and Dallow Lane so close, the pitch just fitted the site. The aerial photo taken in 2017 (image 5) shows my best estimate of where the pitch Celebrating their past in building a was positioned from 1894. new future for Luton’s hat factories

5

PART 1 rom the beginning of the twentieth century, Luton was known for its car manufacturing with the Vauxhall plant The Hat Factory dominating the town. In recent years, one of UK’s most Arts Centre Fsuccessful budget airlines, Easyjet, has helped transform 65-67 Bute Street London , putting the town firmly on the map as a top regional airport for passengers travelling to Europe and beyond. But anyone who’s joined one of the Luton’s history walks or watched The Heritage Team, the Hats episode of the popular BBC ‘Made in GB’ series last year Luton Culture Trust will appreciate the town’s rich heritage as a thriving international hat making centre going back over 150 years. If you look up to the roof tops, you can’t miss the fascinating architecture and distinct brick features, Dutch style parapets and arches on many of the old hat buildings in the Plaiters Lea Conservation area of Luton. At its peak in the At its peak in the 1930s, the region was producing around 70 1930s, the region was million hats a year. After the Second World War less demand and overseas competition saw the steady decline of Luton’s hat trade producing around 70 but some of the UK’s most talented milliners and hatters still create million hats a year exquisite hats for discerning clients across the world today.

22 23 The Hat factory The Hat factory Photo: mubsta.com

Left: 1920s Advertising pamphlet from the museum collection. Above: Staff at Egletons in 1991. Copyright A. Stephens. Below: Part of the unused areas in 1991. The whole building was once used for hat manufacturing but by 1988 only thirteen people worked in the annex. Copyright A. Stephens. Opposite page: Launch performance event to open the refurbished Hat Factory on 6 September 2019 with crowds outside in Bute Street.

Fast forward to 2018 and we see the site. From 1895 –1910 James during the 1920s. They stayed there a cluster of old hat factories being Higginbottom & Sons, straw and felt until the mid 1930s and returned to transformed in the town centre. hat manufacturers were established the premises in 1950s, although the The Culture Trust’s ambitious £10m there and Gaunt & Hudson Ltd Hat building seems to have been vacant ‘Hat District’ regeneration project is manufacturers are listed at 65/67/69 for a time over the Second World restoring three old hat factories and Bute Street in 1913. The Higgins War. building on a new site to breathe hat factory was seen in the 1914 Towards the end of the 1950s new life into conservation area of the Directory of Luton at number 65 other companies shared the town centre to bring new creative while Gaunt & Hudson continued building including Hubbard’s felt opportunities and arts events to the in numbers 67/69. This would have manufacturers from 32 Guildford town. been a prime location for businesses Street, which is now Hat House and One of Luton’s most familiar given its proximity to the railway is also part of Luton Culture’s Hat hat factories: The Hat Factory Arts line. District regeneration project. By Centre has just been refurbished and The ladies hat manufacturer: J & K 1963 J. Albert & Co hat makers also reopened in September offering more Connor occupied the new building shared the building until they moved accessible arts and cultural events premises to John Street, around 1974. as well as opportunities for talented During the 1990s the James creatives from the region. It will, once more, Egleton hat factory occupied the It sits on a busy thoroughfare become part of a building. between Luton mainline station Egleton supplied well known and The Mall. Although the current growing, vibrant fashion houses, high street labels building was built at 65-67 Bute hub in a regenerated and retailers including Jaeger, Street in 1927, records suggest Planet, Windsmoor, House of Fraser, there were other hat factories on Hat District John Lewis Partnership, Harvey

24 25 The Hat factory Fabergé Collection

Opening night of the Hat Factory Arts Centre on 6 September, 2019 Gentleman’s walking stick handle Photo: mubsta.com The Fabergé Collection at Luton Hoo

Luton Hoo Hotel

Nichols, Fortnum & Mason. They Last year The Culture Trust collaborate in the newly refurbished also supplied Royal Milliners Philip started an 18 month refurbishment hat factory. The café has re-opened hen I answered an Russian Royal Tsarina as a surprise Somerville and Frederick Fox [LVO] programme of the Hat Factory as with a simple, fresh menu sitting in advertisement in a Easter Egg. These eggs were all with hat shapes. The business merged part of its Hat District project. This the cultural heart of Luton. local paper for ‘A individual and often contained a with the parent company W. Wright is now complete and the arts centre The Hat Factory that sits on 65- WClerical Assistant’ in surprise ie: one opened to a small & Son Ltd Hat Manufacturers in reopened on 6 September, 2019 with 67 Bute Street in 2019 may have a 1985 in the Estate Office at Luton chicken sitting inside. Hightown Road in 1993/4 where 90 a spectacular launch event. different purpose to that of many Hoo I did not envisage that I would The collection at Luton Hoo did craftsmen and women were already The newly refurbished arts centre decades before but it will, once more, eventually come into very close not have a large egg but there was employed. offers unique workshop, co-working become part of a growing, vibrant contact with a wonderful collection a collection of 40 small eggs on a In 1998 ‘artezium’ was created. spaces alongside its popular visual hub in a regenerated Hat District. of Faberge items on display to visitors chain – representing the 40 days of This new arts and media hub was and performing arts space. Communities from across Luton and in the Mansion House Easter. Each egg was individual and conceived by What’s more there’ll be new the region will come together again, The Faberge Collection came beautifully decorated with precious for music, comedy, dance and a creative learning programmes for this time through an exciting new to Luton Hoo with the marriage metals and jewels. range of other performances as well children and adults. The first Hat arts programme and creative work of Harold Wernher to Countess My particular favourite in the as space for creative industries. It Factory bursary artist, Luton based opportunities for all. Anastasia (Zia) de Torby – Harold collection was a black obsidian bear, was reimagined in 2004 as the Hat Abi Spendlove, will have dedicated Each egg was was the son of Julius Wernher who beautifully modelled with the bear Factory regional arts centre offering space in the art centre to develop individual and formed the Wernher Collection and sitting and his back legs spread wide For more information about a theatre, comedy bar, café, office and share her skills and talents with purchased Luton Hoo in 1903 – the – you could even see the soles of his The Hat Factory arts centre beautifully space, education rooms and a vibrant visitors through workshops and programme and the Culture Trust fairly large collection comprised of feet in minute detail. year-round arts programme. In exhibitions. Luton’s most ambitious go to: www.culturetrust.com decorated with both useful items and ornaments. In those days ladies would carry 2015, a new café was opened and young creative entrepreneurs will The word Faberge immediately parasols – there were exquisite The Hat District project go to: precious metals named after the historic hat company have opportunities to develop www.hatdistrict.co.uk brings to mind large eggs which handles in rose quartz and green Connors. their creative business ideas and and jewel were originally made for the ruling jade. Similarly gentlemen would

26 27 Fabergé Collection Fabergé Collection

Below: jade and gold container – used for special presentation of documents

Above: lipstick holder Right: bell push placed on dressing table Below: salver with rose gold and diamond handles

carry sticks as a fashion accessory – issued a message at the same time! There were 3 quite special copies of a calendar / roller blotter / and in the shape of a fish – green jade rotated in special cabinets as part their handles were also neat designs Among the items were several of flowers – set in rock crystal vases – an ‘aide-memoire’ notepad used again – with opal eyes which would of the original Wernher Collection of unusual objects – one was a small brooches – of agate and other cut replicating water in the vase. One was to be on Lady Zia’s desk for her be pressed to ring the bell on the formed by Sir Julius Wernher but jade cockerel with tall tail feathers. It and polished hard stones. These a spray of lily of the valley – another correspondence. servants call board elsewhere in the remained in the female hereditary looked strange for a handle but fitted were regularly worn by Lady Zia – was of for-get-me-nots and the Among a few larger items were building. line. Having been passed by Lady Zia the hand very comfortably. matching the brooch to the particular third a spray of gypsophillia. All so boxes and cylinder shaped caskets The second ‘bell’ was a engine to her 2 daughters – Georgine (Lady Another gentleman’s handle was dress or coat she was wearing. beautiful and realistic. usually of jade decorated with gold turned red enamel globe shape with Kennard) and Myra (Lady Butter) a in the shape of a peaked cap – also Elephants were a particular Other items were photograph swagging - these were often used an opal on top (to press the bell) who then both in turn passed the made out of jade with gold braid too ! favourite of the whole family and frames and perpetual calendars – for the presentation of special decorated with swags of gold and collection down to their 8 daughters. A rather special item in the there were ‘quite a herd ‘ of them these with engine turned fascias all documents to dignitaries. this was the ‘bell’ that was placed The Wernher Collection is now collection was a jade ladies in various hardstones with either decorated with contrasting swags Perhaps the largest item in the in the bedroom of Queen Elizabeth with English Heritage and displayed lipstick holder with, on one end, diamond or ruby eyes – in various and coloured hard stones. One set collection was a green jade ‘salver’ II and Prince Phillip when visiting at Rangers House in . a wonderfully portrayed eye – poses – on one leg / trunk raised etc. of 3 items were matching in pink with handles of rose gold studded the Wernhers at Luton Hoo. This The Faberge Collection returned obviously a ladies eye ! This was then with diamonds and rubies. Probably was a regular occasion – usually in to the family after the closure of the a discreet way of ‘flirting’ – there was kept on a table for guests presenting November to celebrate their wedding Mansion House in 1997. an expression of ‘giving a guy the eye’ The Faberge Collection returned their personal calling cards. anniversary. A tradition carried on 34 years later I still work at Luton and when then it was fashionable to to the family after the closure of Two other items would have been from their first visit during their Hoo – now working as Historian for repair lip makeup in public pointing put onto a ladies dressing table as honeymoon. the Hotel – and still enjoy keeping the ‘eye’ in a particular direction - the Mansion House in 1997 ‘bells’ to call her maid – one was This whole Fabergé collection was the Hoo alive.

28 29 The Salvation Army The Salvation Army

Opposite page: Number 2 citadel in Manchester Street originally opened as a skating rink but in 1880 opened as ‘The People’s New Temperance Music Hall and Palace of Varieties Hall’, whose name was soon to be shortened to the ‘Alexandra Theatre’. The building was later occupied by the Salvation Army, who screened ‘animated pictures’ (early films) in the building from 1907. It survived the riot in 1919 but was demolished with the construction of the new Town Hall.

Left: Mr and Mrs Day with their children (date unknown) t was not until 1870 that Lutonians started to get a supply soldiers returning from the war of unpolluted water. Before that, rioted and burned down the Ithe only germ-free cold drinks Town Hall, angry at not finding available for adults and children were the employment they had been ales and spirits. It is little wonder promised. Fortunately, their opinion that virtually every street corner of the Salvation Army was rather had a public house (1 for every 48 different, and they helped to save inhabitants over the age of thirteen) the neighbouring Citadel when it and that drink-related crime was a looked as if it might be engulfed by serious and increasing problem. the flames. In 1880 a number of Luton 17 years later, with the building businessmen, having heard about of a new, larger, Town Hall, The The Salvation Army and their Salvation Army had to leave their remarkable results in London’s East Manchester Street premises and End, decided to organise a ‘Pleasant move into a new purpose-built hall in Sunday Afternoon’ campaign to offer nearby Alma Street. This was a boom people alternative forms of refuge time for the Temple Corps in Park and relaxation. The leader of The Street, as evidenced by the opening Salvation Army, General William of a third corps in Sarum Road in Booth, was asked if some of his Leagrave. These premises still serve ‘soldiers’ (members) could help with as an outpost today. their campaign. In December 1882 Many returning soldiers at the Booth appointed Captain Jim Harris end of The Second World War were to ‘Open Fire’ (start up) in Luton. worn by the ladies became useful The Salvation Army in Luton full of appreciation for the way So successful was that first meeting shields against the rotten tomatoes, prospered despite counter attractions The Salvation Army had supported in the Plait Hall in Cheapside that dead cats and other refuse thrown at like the Grand Theatre (opened them. Red Shield canteens and Army William Booth decided to establish them during open air services held in 1898), Luton’s first cinema (opened cups of tea became the proverbial. a corps (base/church) in Luton. Luton’s streets. 1909) and the Palace Theatre (opened At this time the Temple was closed Ironically they moved into premises In 1886, a purpose-built Army 1912). By the end of the First World for modifications that included that had once been a brewery! Temple was constructed on marshy War the Temple corps had 400 senior the installation of iron girders to A second corps was established ground by Blackwater Lane (now Lea members and 300 juniors. reinforce roof and foundations that six months later which initially Road) – it’s very name a reminder The Citadel corps in Manchester had been shaken by passing tanks held meetings in the Alexandra Bonnets of the cholera and other deadly Street was equally strong. from the Vauxhall munitions factory. Theatre and then later in premises epidemics that were once rife. When 1919 saw one of the darkest By June 1999 the Citadel and in Manchester Street. Luton’s the new building was opened by the moments in Luton’s history, when the Temple decided to amalgamate temperance leaders were pleased with and Brass Army Mother, Mrs Catherine Booth, in order to develop a new strategy their new colleagues’ success, but a newspaper report described it as for 21st century Luton and to build there were others who were appalled The History of Luton’s having: ‘an attractive appearance. Ironically they new premises that were better able by the Army’s abrasive tactics. Every It has a spacious gallery extending moved into to facilitate their service to the soul ‘won for Christ’ by the Army Salvation Army round three sides of the building, community. The new Worship and was a customer lost to the licensing and tiers of raised seats ascending premises that Community Centre, built on the site trade. Publicans were soon up in from the platform. The front of the had once been of the old Temple, was opened by arms and formed their own opposing building has three entrances, the Commissioner Keith Banks in army. The wide-brimmed bonnets Les Stonnell principal of which is a turreted hall.’ a brewery! April 2003.

30 31 The animated owner of The Engine pub in Bute Street discusses the renovation of this old premises to people on the Plaiters’ Lea heritage walk.