Marlborough & Nelson
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© Lonely Planet Publications MARLBOROUGH & NELSON 432 lonelyplanet.com MARLBOROUGH REGION •• Picton 433 Climate Marlborough & The forecast is good: Marlborough and Nelson MARLBOROUGH & NELSON FACTS soak up some of NZ’s sunniest weather. Eat Seafood, seafood and more seafood (especially January and February are the warmest months, local green-shell mussels and crayfish) Nelson with temperatures averaging 22°C; July is the Drink Sauvignon blanc in the Marlborough winer- coldest month, averaging 12°C. It’s wetter and ies ( p448 ); microbrewed beer in Nelson ( p461 ) more windswept the closer you get to Farewell Read The Wine Atlas of New Zealand by Michael MARLBOROUGH & NELSON MARLBOROUGH & NELSON Spit and the West Coast. Cooper and John McDermott Splashed across the northern end of the South Island, the Marlborough and Nelson regions Listen to Rootsy reggae from Kaikoura band are many travellers’ first southern contacts after crossing Cook Strait from Wellington. The Getting There & Around Salmonella Dub South Island’s population only recently topped one million, but less people doesn’t mean Soundsair (www.soundsair.com) is a local airline con- Watch Whales, seals, dolphins and seabirds in necting Wellington with Picton, Blenheim, less action: there’s just as much to do here, and more room to do it! Kaikoura ( p455 ) Nelson and Kaikoura. Air New Zealand (www Swim at The heaven-sent beaches in Abel Tasman The name of the genius who discovered that Marlborough’s cool, sunny climate is perfect .airnewzealand.com) offers domestic flights. National Park ( p478 ) Interisland Cook Strait ferries pull into Festival Nelson Arts Festival ( p463 ); Kaikoura for growing grapes has been lost to history, but the wine world is now toasting his (or her) Picton, often the starting point for South Island Seafest ( p455 ) legacy: Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough Wine Region is a world-class winner. Also here explorations. From here you can connect to Tackiest tourist attraction Dazzling dresses is pretty Picton, and the sunken valleys of the Marlborough Sounds: the Queen Charlotte almost anywhere in the South Island by bus; at Nelson’s World of WearableArt & Classic Cars Track is a tramping and mountain-biking haven. InterCity is the major operator, but there are also Museum ( p464 ) local shuttle buses. Tranz Scenic’s TranzCoastal Go green Golden Bay ( p479 ) – more sustainable The coast road southeast from Blenheim to Christchurch tracks through stunning (and we train takes the scenic route from Picton to living, untrammelled wilderness and organic food mean it!) Kaikoura. Here, snowcapped summits erupt from the coastline, while not far offshore, Christchurch, via Blenheim and Kaikoura. than you can lob a lentil at. Renting a car is easy – there’s a slew of car- a continental crag offers up a smorgasbord for the whales, dolphins, seals and seabirds. hire offices at Picton ferry terminal. brought about the first permanent European West of Marlborough is Nelson, an artsy, midsize city dotted with photogenic Victorian Water transport, sea kayaking or walking are the best ways to navigate large tracts of this settlement in the district. houses. Pubs, galleries and hip cafés set the scene for creative discourse; a vigorous coffee region, including the Marlborough Sounds culture keeps the locals humming. The Nelson region is also the access point for tramping and Abel Tasman National Park. PICTON and kayaking in New Zealand’s most-visited national park, Abel Tasman. Not far away is pop 4000 Half-asleep in winter, but hyperactive (with Kaiteriteri, with one of NZ’s most alluring beaches, while further west Golden Bay mellows- 2000 ferry arrivals per day) in summer, Picton out in hippiedom near the abandoned, end-of-the-world beauty of Farewell Spit. MARLBOROUGH REGION clusters around a deep gulch at the head of The convoluted maze of Marlborough Sounds Queen Charlotte Sound. It’s the main marine waterways are a South Island spectacle. Picton access point to the South Island, and the best HIGHLIGHTS is the gateway to the island and a prime spot place from which to explore the Marlborough Golden Bay Eyeballing your first whale ( p455 ) off for walking, sailing, kayaking and exploring Sounds and tackle the Queen Charlotte Track. Marlborough Abel Tasman Kaikoura Sounds Sounds’ hideaways. A cork’s pop south of The vibe here is touristy and transient, but National Park Picton is agrarian Blenheim, and the world- there are some great hostels, decent watering Nosing and noshing your way through the famous Marlborough Wine Region. holes and plenty of good eateries. Marlborough Wine Region ( p448 ): Sauvi- Nelson gnon Blanc and gourmet feasts aplenty History Information Waking up in a boutique hideaway, or Long before Abel Tasman sheltered on the east % Marlborough Picton i-SITE visitor information centre ( 03-520 tramping the Queen Charlotte Track in the Wine Region coast of D’Urville Island in 1642 (more than 3113; www.destinationmarlborough.com; Foreshore; Marlborough Sounds ( p439 ) 100 years before James Cook blew through in h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) Picton Sea kayaking through postcard-perfect 1770), Maori traders and war parties knew the pamphlets, plus Sounds maps and walking information. Abel Tasman National Park ( p478 ) Marlborough area as Te Tau Ihu o Te Waka a DOC counter staffed during summer. Maui. Cook named Queen Charlotte Sound; Picton Police Station (%03-520 3120; 36 Broadway; Getting airborne in the Nelson region: his detailed reports made the area the best- h24hr) paragliding ( p461 ), skydiving ( p472 ) or Kaikoura known sheltered anchorage in the southern Post office (%03-573 6900; Mariners Mall, 72 High St; hang gliding ( p461 ) hemisphere. In 1827 French navigator Jules h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Planning a creative outburst in Nelson’s Dumont d’Urville discovered the narrow Take Note (%03-573 6107; 28 High St; h9am- cool cafés ( p466 ) strait now known as French Pass. His officers 5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Books Reaching the end of the road in chilled-out, artsy Golden Bay ( p479 ) named the island just to the north in his hon- and magazines. our. In the same year a whaling station was es- United Video (%03-573 7466; 63 High St; h9am- TELEPHONE CODE: 03 www.destinationmarlborough.com www.nelsonnz.com tablished at Te Awaiti in Tory Channel, which 9pm) Internet access. MARLBOROUGH & NELSON MARLBOROUGH & NELSON 434 MARLBOROUGH REGION •• Picton lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MARLBOROUGH REGION •• Picton 435 0 50 km a Russian cruise ship that sank in Port Gore in MARLBOROUGH & NELSON 0 30 miles 1986 – allegedly the world’s biggest diveable MAORI NZ: MARLBOROUGH & Cape Farewell Farewell Spit cruise-ship wreck. Dive Picton (%03-573 7323; NELSON Puponga Pakawau www.pictondiversworld.co.nz; cnr Auckland St & London Quay; Maori culture on the South Island is often Golden Bay See Marlborough Sounds Map (p441) T A S M A N Patura Collingwood dive trips from $165; h8am-6pm) runs dives to the less obvious than in the north, but that S E A Aorere See Abel Tasman National Mikhail Lermontov and other Sounds wrecks. doesn’t mean it’s any less potent! In the Park Map (p476) Cook ὈὈKahurangi Point BainhamὈὈ Strait It also offers equipment hire and ‘Discover Marlborough and Nelson regions, the fol- 60 Pohara MARLBOROUGH & NELSON MARLBOROUGH & NELSON D'Urville Island Heaphy Pupu Totaranui Scuba Diving’ courses ($145). lowing operators are keyed into Maoritanga Track Springs Takaka Marlborough Sounds Marlborough Abel Tasman Maritime Park Sounds Picton Water Taxis (%03-573 7853; www.picton (Maori culture): Kahurangi Devil River National Park National Park Peak (1775m) Marahau watertaxis.co.nz; London Quay; h7am-6pm) hires out Kaiteriteri Harakeke Basket Weaving ( p472 ) One- Upper Takaka Tasman Bay mountain bikes (half-/full day $35/50), kay- Mt Domett Riwaka day flax-weaving workshops south of (1645m) Cobb aks (half-/full day $45/75) and power boats River Motueka Motueka. Rabbit (from $290 full day plus fuel), and runs a ὈὈLeslie-KarameaὈὈHwy ᝲᝲᝲᝲRuby Bay Island Oparara Track Moutere Maori Tours ( p455 ) Small-group history Woodstock Valley Mapua 6 Rai Valley water-taxi service. Other companies, includ- Karamea Havelock Tasman Mountains 60 Nelson and cultural tours around Kaikoura. Waikawa ing Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company Hwy Canvastown 6 Karamea Bight Stoke Picton Motueka and Endeavour Express, offer mountain-bike Maori Uncut ( p477 ) Maori cultural tours Little Wanganui Mt Kendall Brightwater Richmond Maungatapu (1762m) Saddle Tapawera Marlborough 1 Ferry to rental for the Queen Charlotte Track from $50 in Abel Tasman National Park. ᝲᝲᝲᝲWakefield Mt Richmond Wellington Wine Region 67 Forest Park Cloudy Bay per day; see below . Wangapeka Mt Owen Renwick Blenheim Myths & Legends Eco-tours ( below ) Track (1875m) Wairau Lagoons Too terrestrial? Skydive the Sounds (%0800 Rv ὈὈSeddonville Hope 65 i Airport Eco-oriented cultural and wildlife a Hector Wairau River p 373 2648, 03-573 9101; www.skydivethesounds.com; Picton Saddle aiho cruises on the Marlborough Sounds. Granity Richmond Range W Seddon Airport; 9000/12,000ft jump $245/295; h9am-5pm) of- Kawatiriᝲᝲᝲᝲ 6 Denniston Te Hikoi Maori ( p463 ) Learn the haka Gowan Tophouse River Cape fers tandem skydives with sensational views Westport Bridge Rainbow Valley Grassmere Campbell (if you remember to open your eyes). You (war dance) or take a bush-medicine Buller Gorge Murchison St Arnaud Ski Field Awatea Lake Lake Rotoiti Ward could also try the North