The Best of Montana & Wyoming

1 The Best of Montana & Wyoming

A mix of the rugged Wild West, the even more rugged Rocky Moun- tains, and a few almost-modern cities—or what some might call overgrown cow towns— make the states of Montana and Wyoming delightful vacation spots. This is especially true for people who savor outdoor adventures, but it’s also the case for those looking to discover a part of the United States that many of us have seen only in the movies and on television (and that’s a rather distorted view). Here you’ll find some of the most breath- taking scenery in America; a vast array of wildlife that not only thinks it owns the place, but actually does; and even some first-class Western-style lodges, restaurants, and museums. Following are what I consider some of the best experiences in Montana and Wyoming.

1 THE BEST VACATION EXPERIENCES

• Glacier National Park (MT): The best wilderness, wildlife, and geothermal vacation spot in Montana is also the wonders. See chapter 12. most obvious one. By the standard of • Grand Teton National Park (WY): The other crowded national parks, this spec- Grand Tetons are an excellent short tacular country is virtually undiscov- course in Rocky Mountain parks for ered. See chapter 6. travelers with less time: magnificent • Yellowstone National Park (WY): It’s peaks rising from the Snake River plain, the crown jewel of American parks, and it alpine lakes, wildflowers, and wildlife, all remains the prime attraction in the Rocky in a relatively small park that can be seen Mountains. This unique park offers visi- in a few days or combined with Jackson tors an extraordinary combination of for a longer vacation. See “Grand Teton National Park” in chapter 13.

2 THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

• Exploring the Bob Marshall Wilderness around Yellowstone National Park will (MT): TheCOPYRIGHTED 1.5-million-acre Bob Mar- take MATERIALyou into the deep wilderness that shall Wilderness Complex in northwest surrounds the busy attractions at the Montana is one of America’s most spec- park’s center, and there you’ll get a flavor tacular wild places. Lace up your hiking of the wild as rich as the Rockies can boots, tie on your bandanna, and take to offer. If you have experience, you can go the high country in Montana’s northwest on your own—paddling Yellowstone corner. See section 7, “The Bob Marshall Lake, backpacking along Slough Creek, Wilderness Complex,” in chapter 7. or Telemark skiing the powder around • Enjoying the Yellowstone Backcoun- Shoshone Lake. See chapter 12. try (WY): Outfitters from ranches

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 1 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM 2 Montana

CANADA KOOTENAIKOOTENAI MONTANA EEurekaureka GLACIER 89 BLACKFEET NATIONALNATIONAL FLATHEADFLATHEAD 37 INDIAN FORESTFOREST NATIONALNATIONAL NATIONAL FORESTFOREST PARK RESERVATION 93 2 2 WhitefishWhitefish West Glacier LLibbyibby Bear Paw Battlefield Fort Union Elmo St. Pk. East Glacier National 2 HHungryungry Lake Historic Site Kalispell 15 HorseHorse Conrad Elwell RReservoireservoir 87 Bear Creek 200 89 Fort Rec. Area LLOLOOLO SSwanwan LLakeake Benton FlatheadFlathead NNat’lat’l WWildlifeildlife RRef.ef. NNATIONALATIONAL LakeLake Choteau Rock Creek Rec. Area FFORESTOREST 80 FFLATHEADLATHEAD PPolsonolson LEWISLEWIS ANDAND CCLARKLARK Nelson Creek IINDIANNDIAN NATIONALNATIONAL FFORESTOREST Augusta LEWIS AND CLARK Rec. Area RESERVATIONRESERVATION NATIONAL FOREST MMONTANA NinepipeNinepipe GGreatreat O N 200 Nat’lNat’l WildlifeWildlife Ref.Ref. FallsFalls IIDAHOD T LLOLOOLO A A SSuperioruperior 200 H N NATIONALNATIONAL 200 15 O A 200 83 FORESTFOREST 87 COEURCOEUR D’ALENED’ALENE 89 Wolf Creek NATIONALNATIONAL FORESTFOREST MMissoulaissoula LEWISLEWIS ANDAND CLARKCLARK HELENAHELENA NNATIONALATIONAL FFORESTOREST LEWIS AND CLARK LLoloolo HHotot SSpringsprings NATIONALNATIONAL NATIONAL FOREST 1 90 HelenaHelena FFORESTOREST LOLOLOLO CanyonCanyon MartinsdaleMartinsdale NATIONALNATIONAL FerryFerry FORESTFOREST LakeLake WWhitehite DEERLODGEDEERLODGE SSulphurulphur PPhilipsburghilipsburg NNATIONALATIONAL SSpringsprings MONTANAM GALLATINGALLATIN IIDAHO FFORESTOREST O MMissouriissouri D N A AAnacondanaconda HeadwatersHeadwaters St.St. Pk.Pk. NATIONALNATIONAL H T 89 A BITTERROOTBITTERROOT O FORESTFOREST N Butte A NATIONALNATIONAL 90 Little FFORESTOREST 43

Three Bighorn Battleﬁeld

G G BBozemanozeman

43 BigBig HHoleole BattleﬁeldBattleﬁeld Forks 90 National Monument a

a Chief Plenty l

287 l

Nat’lNat’l Mon.Mon. l a

a Coups St. Pk. t BEAVERHEADBEAVERHEAD t

i 15 n GGallatinallatin LivingstonLivingston CUSTER NATIONALNATIONAL

GGatewayateway NATIONAL

FORESTFOREST Ennis BIGHORN CANYON FOREST

Bannack R BigBig SkySky R NATIONAL REC. AREA St. Pk. i CUSTER v Red Lodge Dillon e r NATIONAL FOREST THE BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING WILDLIFE BEST THE WYOMING & MONTANA OF BEST THE GGardinerardiner Cooke City SSALMONALMON NNATIONALATIONAL FFORESTOREST Clark Canyon BBEAVERHEADEAVERHEAD Reservoir NNATIONALATIONAL FFORESTOREST WWestest YYELLOWSTONEELLOWSTONE SALMONSALMON YYellowstoneellowstone NNATIONALATIONAL Buffalo Bill State Park BIGHORN NATIONALNATIONAL MONTANA PPARKARK

G NATIONAL

FORESTFOREST IDAHO N 0 30 mi CHALLISCHALLIS I FOREST O M

NATIONALNATIONAL H O Yellowstone A TARGHEETARGHEE NNATIONALATIONAL FFORESTOREST Y

FORESTFOREST D W WYOMING Lake I 0 30 km IDAHO

3 THE BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING

• Glacier National Park (MT): The you can see mountain goats, moose, experience of watching wildlife amid elk, and other native animals in their the imposing terrain of Glacier National natural habitat. Keep a good distance, Park is tough to beat. With a little energy, and be aware of all bear restrictions and

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 2 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM 3

CANADA NORTH DAKOTA MONTANA 5 KOOTENAI Eureka Scobey MONTANA NATIONAL 24 16

FLATHEAD THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING FOREST NATIONAL FOREST 13 2 Fort Belknap 2 FORT PECK Whitefish Havre Nelson M Libby BearBear PawPaw BattlefieldBattlefield Reservoir il INDIAN RESERVATION FortFort UnionUnion k R i NationalNational ROCKY BOYS FORT BELKNAP ve Hungry r 2 HistoricHistoric SSiteite Horse INDIAN RES. INDIAN RES. iver Missouri R Reservoir Fort Peck 16 66 191 BBearear CCreekreek 200 U.L. Bend National RRec.ec. AArearea 13 LOLO Swan Lake Flathead Nat’l Wildlife Ref. Wildlife Refuge 200 NATIONAL Lake River RRockock CCreekreek issouri FOREST M RRec.ec. AArearea FLATHEAD Polson LEWIS AND CLARK Fort Peck Charles M. Russell Lake NelsonNelson CreekCreek INDIAN NATIONAL FOREST Devil’s Creek Nat’l Wildlife Rec. Area Rec.Rec. AreaArea 16 RESERVATION Refuge M Ninepipe Great Crooked Creek 200 Glendive O 200S N Nat’l Wildlife Ref. Falls Rec. Area Jordan ID T LOLO 81 191 A Superior A N 200 H NATIONAL O A 87 FOREST 200 94 COEUR D’ALENE 59 NATIONAL FOREST Missoula LEWIS AND CLARK Lewistown HELENA NATIONAL FOREST LEWISLEWIS ANDAND CCLARKLARK Lolo Hot Springs NATIONAL NATIONALNATIONAL FFORESTOREST Helena FOREST 1 LOLO Canyon Martinsdale 191 12 12 NATIONAL Ferry Harlowton Miles City BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING THE FOREST Lake White Roundup DEERLODGE Sulphur 1 Philipsburg NATIONAL Springs 94 M GALLATIN 87 59 I FOREST O Missouri D N A Anaconda Headwaters St. Pk. NATIONAL H T A BITTERROOT O FOREST N Ekalaka

A NATIONAL LLittleittle Powderville FOREST Billings

90 BBighornighorn BBattlefieldattlefield Ashland G Bozeman Big Hole Battlefield 90 NNationalational MMonumentonument

a CChiefhief PPlentylenty Hardin l 212

Nat’l Mon. l NORTHERN CHEYENNE

a CCoupsoups SSt.t. PPk.k.CROW INDIAN

BEAVERHEAD t Broadus i INDIAN RESERVATION n Gallatin Livingston RESERVATION CCUSTERUSTER NATIONAL

Gateway NNATIONALATIONAL

310 FOREST BBIGHORNIGHORN CCANYONANYON 59 212 Tongue FORESTFOREST 212

Big Sky R NNATIONALATIONAL RREC.EC. AAREAREA River i CUSTERCUSTER Biddle v RedRed LodgeLodge e Bighorn Reservoir MONTANA r NATIONALNATIONAL FFORESTOREST Gardiner Lake CookeCooke CityCity WYOMING SALMON NATIONAL FOREST BEAVERHEAD 212 789 59 NATIONAL FOREST 16 West YELLOWSTONE 310 14 SALMON Yellowstone NATIONAL BBuffalouffalo BBillill 90 SStatetate PParkark 789 BBIGHORNIGHORN 59 NATIONAL PARK Cody G 14 NNATIONALATIONAL FOREST N 90 CHALLIS I 16 20 FORESTFOREST Gillette O M

NATIONAL H O A TARGHEE NATIONAL FOREST Y

FOREST D W I 16

regulations—the grizzly is the park’s Mountain wildlife—although you have unofficial mascot. See chapter 6. to wander into the backcountry to find • The Bob Marshall Wilderness Com- it. See section 7, “The Bob Marshall plex (MT): Just south of Glacier, in the Wilderness Complex,” in chapter 7. Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, • The Lamar Valley (WY): You can see roam a full complement of Rocky wildlife in many parts of Yellowstone,

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 3 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM 4 Wyoming GardinerGardiner CookeCooke CityCity MONTANA GGardinerardiner CookeCooke CityCity WYOMING Mammoth 212 Hot Springs Jct. 789 BIGHORN SSHOSHONEHOSHONE Powell Lovell NATIONAL YYELLOWSTONEELLOWSTONE BLACK HILLS A NNATIONALATIONAL FOREST 14 N BBuffalouffalo BBillill 310 A NATIONALNATIONAL NATIONAL

T SStatetate PParkark N FFORESTOREST 789 FOREST

O PPARKARK

MMONTANA Cody BIGHORN 14 14 Yellowstone 16 20 20 WYOMING Shoshone 16 Greybull NATIONAL Lake EastEast EntranceEntrance Buﬀalo Bill Lake (Open(Open MayMay 1–1– IDAHO Reservoir FOREST Lewis Nov.Nov. 1)1) Lake 89 Heart Lake 191 SouthSouth EntranceEntrance (Open(Open MayMay 1–1– Nov.Nov. 1)1) 287 Worland GGRANDRAND JJohnohn DD.. 16 RockefellerRockefeller Jr.Jr. BBRIDGER-TETONRIDGER-TETON SSHOSHONEHOSHONE TTETONETON Mem.Mem. PkwyPkwy NNATIONALATIONAL NNAT’LAT’L FFORESTOREST NNATIONALATIONAL PPARKARK Moran Jct. ( FFORESTOREST 89 Cl Hot Springs TetonTeton os ed State Park VillageVillage in w MMooseoose in Thermopolis ter Dubois ) WIND RIVER 789 22 JJacksonackson BBRIDGER-RIDGER- INDIAN Wind River 20 26 1 RESERVATION 287 Boysen Boysen State Park TETONTETON Reservoir 191 26 Pavillion 89 Ocean 189 Bull Lake Shoshoni Lake 20 NNATIONALATIONAL Kinnear 26 FremontFremont LakeLake Fort Washakie Riverton

BRIDGERBRIDGER FORESTFOREST 287 Lander TETONTETON 191 SSHOSHONEHOSHONE NATIONALNATIONAL Sinks Canyon State Park NNATIONALATIONAL FORESTFOREST 789 FFORESTOREST 28 MEDICINE BOW 189 287 NATIONAL

THE BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING WILDLIFE BEST THE WYOMING & MONTANA OF BEST THE FOREST Big Sandy Reservoir

Fontenelle Reservoir Big Sandy Rec. Area 28 Fossil Butte Nat’l Mon. 191 Kemmerer 372

Granger 80 Rock Springs Woodruﬀ 189 Narrows 789 Reservoir 191 430 80 FLAMING 0 20 mi Evanston GORGE 530 NAT’L REC. AREA 0 20 km

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 4 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM 5

Gardiner Cooke City Gardiner Cooke City WYOMING 90 112 59 Devils Tower SHOSHONE Sheridan THUNDER BASIN Nat’l YELLOWSTONE 16 NAT’L Monument BBLACKLACK HHILLSILLS

A NATIONAL THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING N Buffalo Bill GRASSLAND A NATIONAL NNATIONALATIONAL

T State Park N FOREST Devils Tower Jct. FORESTFOREST

O PARK

M BBIGHORNIGHORN 14 Sundance 59 East Entrance NATIONALNATIONAL Buffalo (Open May 1– Gillette 90 90 Nov. 1) FFORESTOREST 16 90

South Entrance 196 59 (Open May 1– Nov. 1) GRAND John D. 15 50 Newcastle Rockefeller Jr. BRIDGER-TETON SHOSHONE TETON Mem. Pkwy NATIONAL NAT’L FOREST NATIONAL Mayoworth 450 191 PARK 450 ( FOREST Cl Teton os 387 THUNDER ed Barnum 190 85 Village i n BASIN wi Moose nte r) NAT’L Jackson BRIDGER- 387 GRASSLAND Edgerton 1 259 TETON THE BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING THE

NATIONAL Lance Creek 87 Edness Kimball 59 Fremont Lake 20 Wilkins State Park 270 18 26 BRIDGER FOREST 25 20 TETON Casper SHOSHONE 18 NATIONAL NATIONAL FOREST Alcova 270 FOREST MMEDICINEEDICINE BOWBOW Glendo 85 Reservoir 220 NATIONALNATIONAL Pathﬁnder Fort Reservoir 77 FFORESTOREST Laramie 487 26

Seminoe Reservoir Torrington

Medicine Bow 30 Rawlins 287 287 Chugwater

Saratoga 80 MEDICINE 87 85 BOW Laramie Curt Gowdy Centennial Cheyenne NATIONAL 210 State Park MEDICINE BOW 80 FOREST 30 NATIONAL FOREST 230

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 5 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM 6 including the meadows across from the corner, in the valley nicknamed “The Old Faithful complex. But the richest Serengeti of United States.” See chapter 12. trove of wildlife is in the park’s northeast

4 THE BEST WINTER VACATIONS

• Skiing at Whitefish Mountain Resort • Wintering at Old Faithful (WY): The (MT; & 800/858-3930; www.ski chilly season in Yellowstone is increas- whitefish.com): With an annual snow- ingly popular, and it’s bound to be even fall of 300 inches, a vertical drop of more so now that the Old Faithful 2,500 feet, a superpipe for the snow- Snow Lodge (& 866/439-7375; www. boarding crowd, and virtually no lines, travelyellowstone.com) has been trans- Whitefish Mountain is one of the best formed into a handsome, comfortable ski areas in the northwestern United facility. You can take a snowcoach into States. See p. 131. the park, or cross-country ski or snow- • Skiing at Big Sky and Moonlight shoe to the Lonestar Geyser and other Basin (MT; Big Sky & 800/548-4486, attractions. See p. 303. www.bigskyresort.com; Moonlight • Skiing at Jackson Hole Mountain Basin 877/822-0430, www.moonlight Resort (WY; & 888/333-7766; www. 1 basin.com): Big Sky and the much jacksonhole.com): Jackson Hole offers a newer Moonlight Basin have connected vertical drop that will take your breath their trail systems, making for a com- away. There are a variety of ways to get bined 5,300 acres of terrain—the larg- to the bottom, from double black dia- est ski area in the country, not to monds to intermediate slopes. Skiers mention the one with the most vertical who like a challenge should come here drop. See p. 225. and mix the visit with some ballooning, tours of the elk refuge, and other adventures. See p. 310.

5 THE BEST HOTELS & RESORTS THE BEST HOTELS & RESORTS& HOTELS BEST THE WYOMING & MONTANA OF BEST THE • Many Glacier Hotel (Glacier National the highest standard of comfort and Park, MT; & 406/892-2525; www. elegance. See p. 236. glacierparkinc.com): The best thing • Old Faithful Inn (Yellowstone National about Many Glacier, apart from its ele- Park, WY; & 866/439-7375; www. gant mien, friendly service, and cozy travelyellowstone.com): If you ever rooms, is the setting; it sits along Swift- wonder whether there’s really art in current Lake and in the shadows of architecture, look at the way the rustic Mount Grinnell and Mount Wilbur. simplicity and monumental structure of See p. 80. this inn make a perfect fit just across the • The Pollard (Red Lodge, MT; way from one of nature’s most astonish- & 800/765-5273; www.thepollard. ing creations. A lattice of logs climbs to net): You can join Buffalo Bill on the an 85-foot ceiling. You can find peace guest register at the Pollard, a historic in the upper balconies, or join the con- spot that proves that a hotel doesn’t vivial crowds around the big stone fire- need to sprawl all over the place to set place below. See p. 302.

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 6 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM • Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole • The Chamberlin Inn (Cody, WY; 7 (Jackson, WY; & 307/732-5000; www. & 888/587-0202; www.chamberlin fourseasons.com/jacksonhole): The inn.com): A block from the center of most deluxe lodging option in Teton town, the new and improved Chamber- Village, the chic Four Seasons opened lin Inn is Cody’s best lodging option. It in December 2004 and immediately set features charming historic rooms and a new standard for ski-in, ski-out lux- apartment units. Consider asking for THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING ury. See p. 320. the Hemingway Suite, where “Papa” • Jenny Lake Lodge (Grand Teton stayed in 1932. See p. 358. National Park, WY; & 800/628-9988; • The Occidental Hotel (Buffalo, WY; www.gtlc.com): My favorite property in & 307/684-0451; www.occidental any national park, this small cabin- wyoming.com): Born as a tent in 1878, resort offers seclusion, top-notch food, the Occidental has burned to the and individual attention. The property ground and been lost in a poker game is a hybrid of mountain-lake resort and in its storied history. The hotel has been dude ranch, with many extras included beautifully restored for the new millen- in its prices. See p. 344. nium. See p. 381.

6 THE BEST GUEST RANCHES 1 • Triple Creek Ranch (Darby, MT; • Lost Creek Ranch (Moose, WY;

& 800/654-2943; www.triplecreek & 307/733-3435; www.lostcreek.com): THE BEST GUEST RANCHES ranch.com): This place is wonderful. Positioned next door to a national park It’s pretty much the perfect guest ranch, and possessing a beautiful view of the where guests are pampered like Euro- Tetons on one side and the Gros Ventres pean royalty, and the prices reflect it. It on the other, Lost Creek layers on the has all the traditional dude ranch activ- comforts and activities. You can ride, ities, as well as a pool and a fitness hike, swim, fish, float, play tennis and room. See p. 106. billiards, shoot skeet, and eat gourmet • Lone Mountain Ranch (Big Sky, MT; food. Regulars return every year. There & 800/514-4644; www.lmranch.com): are only 10 cabins, but if you can get a Lone Mountain Ranch is a winter and reservation, it’s worth it. See p. 322. summer resort that has views into the • Eatons’ Ranch (Wolf, WY; & 800/ Spanish Peaks Wilderness Area. In win- 210-1049; www.eatonsranch.com): The ter there are 45 miles of cross-country oldest guest ranch in the country, the trails over terrain that will challenge Eaton is also one of the best. The ranch every level of skier. In summer, you can got its start in North Dakota in 1882 ride, hike, fish, or simply relax and eat before relocating in 1904 to isolated in the popular restaurant. There are Wolf Creek Canyon, about 20 miles bird walks with naturalists and forays west of Sheridan. It’s a gorgeous loca- into Yellowstone. See p. 227. tion for a dude ranch. See p. 378.

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 7 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM 8 7 THE BEST BED & BREAKFASTS

• The Garden Wall Inn (Whitefish, MT; 1897 Regina music box in the parlor to & 888/530-1700; www.gardenwall the many original fixtures in the bath- inn.com): This delightful B&B, built in rooms. See p. 216. the 1920s, is full of charm—all of the • Wildflower Inn (Jackson, WY; & 307/ furnishings are period antiques, includ- 733-4710; www.jacksonholewildflower. ing claw-foot tubs and Art Deco dress- com): A B&B on 3 acres near Teton ers. Gourmet breakfasts include Village, the Wildflower Inn features specialties such as wild huckleberry luxurious rooms named after local wild- crepes. See p. 134. flowers, with private decks, exposed • The Sanders B&B (Helena, MT; logs, and exceptional privacy. See & 406/442-3309; www.sandersbb. p. 319. com): Built in 1875, this historically • Spahn’s Big Horn Mountain Bed and important B&B has been beautifully Breakfast (Big Horn, WY; & 307/674- restored. You’ll relax on original furni- 8150; www.bighorn-wyoming.com): ture under the eyes of portraits hung by With a 100-mile view from a secluded the original owner, U.S. Sen. Wilbur peak tucked amid the Bighorn Moun- Fiske Sanders. See p. 154. tains, this rustic hideaway features a • The Symmes-Wicks House (Lewis- massive three-story living area and 1 town, MT; & 406/538-9068; www. rooms decorated with country quilts symmeswickshouse.com): This lovingly and lodgepole furniture. See p. 378. restored 1909 Arts and Crafts home is • Nagle Warren Mansion Bed & Break- in the heart of the Silk Stocking Dis- fast (Cheyenne, WY; & 800/811-2610; trict. The stately home is distinguished www.naglewarrenmansion.com): Origi- by rich hardwood floors, Tiffany glass, nally built in 1888 by famed architect and period antiques. See p. 198. Erasmus Nagle, the mansion was con- • Lehrkind Mansion Bed & Breakfast verted into a bed-and-breakfast in (Bozeman, MT; & 800/992-6932; 1997. The grand three-story mansion is www.bozemanbedandbreakfast.com): luxurious and filled with regional THE BEST RESTAURANTS BEST THE LocatedWYOMING & MONTANA OF BEST THE in the Historic Bozeman Brew- antique furniture. It boasts a stately ery District, the Lehrkind Mansion spire that anchors the building’s south- looks like something out of a fairy tale. east corner. See p. 401. Everything is period, from the rare

8 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• Cafe Kandahar (Whitefish, MT; • Second Street Bistro (Livingston, MT; & 406/862-6247; www.cafekandahar. & 406/222-9463; www.secondstreet com): The chef here is inspired by bistro.com): In the lobby of the Murray French and Creole traditions but also Hotel, this stylish bistro serves a cre- loves to experiment. Local produce and ative, French-inspired menu. All of the meat dominate the menu; favorite cre- produce in summer comes from the ations include seared elk roulade with chef’s garden, and in winter much forest mushroom, as well as creative comes from a greenhouse. See p. 233. seafood and pasta dishes. See p. 138.

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 8 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM • Snake River Grill (Jackson, WY; & 307/733-4647): The five-course 9 & 307/733-0557; www.snakerivergrill. dinners here (from prime rib of buffalo com): Locals, including celebs who to smoked sturgeon ravioli) are so good spend time in the valley, love this place. you might be distracted from the spec- It’s won awards for both its wine list and tacular scenery just outside the window. its menu, which features fresh fish, crispy You may be roughing it in the park, but pork shank, and game meat like venison you’ll need to dress properly at this THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING chops and Idaho trout. See p. 324. establishment. See p. 346. • Jenny Lake Lodge Dining Room (Grand Teton National Park, WY;

9 THE BEST FLYFISHING

• The Madison (MT): Brown trout Forks, but lots of anglers fish it around aren’t native to this area, but no one’s Yellowstone. See chapters 10 and 12. asking them to leave; on this popular • The Snake (WY): It seems somehow river running from Yellowstone fitting that the menacing-sounding National Park into Montana, they’re the Snake River is home to a feisty strain of big attraction. The Madison converges cutthroat trout, making it one of the with its “holy trinity” counterparts, the most satisfying Western rivers to fish. 1 Jefferson and Gallatin, near Three See chapter 13. THE BEST MUSEUMS

10 THE BEST GOLF COURSES

• Old Works (Anaconda, MT): Jack golf course in the country—except Nicklaus has created a course that is as maybe the neighboring Jackson Hole much fun to play as it is beautiful to club—with the granite Grand Teton look at. The course wonderfully inte- looming over every shot. See p. 312. grates the rocky bluffs, the historic • The Powder Horn (Sheridan, WY): nature of the old copper-processing Under the majestic Bighorn Moun- sites, and prairie grasses and sage. See tains, this gorgeous 27-hole course p. 158. mixes Scottish-style golf, wide-open • Teton Pines (Jackson, WY): You won’t fairways, and some serious target prac- find a more beautiful view from any tice. See p. 375.

11 THE BEST MUSEUMS

• Lewis & Clark National Historic River at the Pacific Ocean. Films, lec- Trail Interpretive Center (Great Falls, tures, and demonstrations are among MT; & 406/727-8733; www.fs.fed.us/ the offerings. See p. 189. r1/lewisclark/lcic): This offers a great • Museum of the Rockies (Bozeman, perspective on the Corps of Discovery, MT; & 406/994-3466): The center- from its conception back East to its piece of this first-rate museum is the endpoint at the mouth of the Columbia fabulous dinosaur exhibit. The exhibit,

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 9 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM 10 which just had a stellar makeover, has • National Historic Trails Interpretive made the place one of the premier pale- Center (Casper, WY; & 307/261- ontological attractions in the world. See 7700; www.blm.gov/wy/st/en/NHTIC. p. 215. html): State-of-the-art exhibits give • Buffalo Bill Historical Center (Cody, modern travelers an idea of what life on WY; & 307/587-4771; www.bbhc. the “road” was like for the emigrants org): An art museum, a firearm gallery, who passed through here in the mid- the memorabilia of the West’s great 1800s on the Oregon, Mormon, Cali- showman, and exhibits about the Plains fornia, and Pony Express trails. See Indians comprise the finest museum in p. 389. the Rocky Mountains. See p. 356.

12 THE BEST PERFORMING ARTS & CULTURAL FESTIVALS

• International Wildlife Film Festival • Grand Teton Music Festival (Jackson, (Missoula, MT; & 406/728-9380; WY; & 307/733-3050): Talented www.wildlifefilms.org): This film festi- musicians from well-known orchestras val has become a required festival for participate in this summer festival. 1 international filmmakers who specialize Tickets can usually be obtained on in wildlife. It goes for a week, from early short notice, especially for the terrific to mid-May, and includes panel discus- weeknight chamber music perfor- sions and workshops, as well as screen- mances. See p. 327. ings of the world’s best wildlife films. • Cheyenne Frontier Days (Cheyenne, See p. 92. WY; & 800/227-6336): The “Daddy • Montana Cowboy Poetry Gathering of ’em All,” Cheyenne Frontier Days is (Lewistown, MT; & 866/912-3980): 10 days of parades, rodeo, dances, and Held each year in mid-August, this is a concerts. This is the most vivid demon- rhyming good time for the bowlegged stration of Western hospitality you’ll and horse-drawn set. In addition to a encounter in the modern world. See healthy dose of range rhyme, there are p. 398. booths full of leather and arts-and- crafts shows. See p. 196. THE BEST PERFORMING ARTS & CULTURAL FESTIVALS CULTURAL & ARTS PERFORMING BEST THE WYOMING & MONTANA OF BEST THE

004_591505-ch01.indd4_591505-ch01.indd 1010 44/21/10/21/10 110:250:25 AMAM