ZavoraMozambique’s & Jewels of East Africa

Text and photos by Scott Bennett Mention Africa to most divers and the Red Sea or usually springs to mind. To many travellers, let alone divers, is not exactly high on most people’s bucket list. Less than 20 years ago, the very idea of visiting the country would have been regarded as a madman’s folly. Upon gaining independence from Portugal in 1975, a nearly two-decade long civil war wreaked havoc upon the once affluent colony, decimating its people, infrastructure and wildlife.

After the cessation of hostilities in 1994, the country was bequeathed with the unenviable tag as the world’s poorest by the United Nations. Since that time, it has made remarkable strides towards recovery and is rapidly gaining renown as the rising star of the African diving scene. When an opportunity to visit presented itself, I jumped at the chance. Having visited Africa for the first time two years earlier, I was eager to return and with a few days in the United Kingdom, Shortly after takeoff, Johannesburg’s acacia trees punctuated the landscape green. experience a brand-new destination. it was an 11-hour overnight flight from urban sprawl gave way to the patchwork along with intermittent patches of An hour and 20 minutes after takeoff, “No pain, no gain” is an idiom that London to Johannesburg. After going green of farm country. Continuing gleaming sand from dry rivers. Save we landed at ’s diminutive certainly applies to air travel these through customs and collecting my eastward, the landscape became for the occasional sliver of a dirt road, airport. Upon completing the world’s days, especially if you are a diver and bags, I set out for the other end of the increasingly parched and within an hour, human habitation had all but vanished. most refreshingly simple customs form, photographer. From my home in Toronto, massive terminal to connect with my we were over Mozambique. Before long, the Indian Ocean’s turquoise the officer attached my visa, my Mozambique proved to be somewhat LAM (Mozambique Airlines) flight to My first impression was one of space. expanse appeared on the horizon and US$15.00 fee and entered Mozambique. of a long haul. After breaking up the trip Inhambane in Southern Mozambique. As far as the eye could see, scrubby the landscape reverted back to a lush Patiently waiting outside was Jon

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Garden of soft corals at (left); Moray eel. PREVIOUS PAGE: Coast view at Zavora

Wright from Mozdivers. After loading sign proclaimed the turnoff for Zavora ponder as to how we would venture my gear aboard the truck, we made Lodge. Trading the smooth tarmac for out to the dive sites. The next morning, a brief stop in town to pick up one of an earthen road of burnt sienna, I final- I would discover that Mozambique Jon’s dive masters and set out for the ly felt like I had arrived in Africa. After a diving would be unlike anything I had drive to Zavora along the nation’s sole pleasant but bouncy ride passing rural experienced before. north to south highway. scenes of coconut palms and fields After checking in at reception, I Enroute, I was surprised to see long- of sugar cane, we arrived at Zavora headed for my room. Ascending a abandoned railway cars emerging from Lodge, my home for the next six days. flight of stairs, the view at the top tangles of vegetation. During the war Consisting of a bar and restaurant, revealed a sight that was decidedly years, the railroads were sabotaged beach front houses, bungalows and incongruous with the African beachside by the RENAMO (Resistência Nacional campsites, the lodge offers a com- setting. The block my room occupied Moçambicana), the Mozambican manding view over Praia de Zavora was essentially an elongated log cabin National Resistance. With bridges Bay. Beneath windswept dunes, a vast that looked as it had been transported bombed and tracks torn up, the weath- expanse of empty beach vanished from my native Canada! The room ered shells are all that remains of the into the distant midday haze. With the was simple but comfortable, the large once vital north-south rail link. Flanking exception of a few nearby houses, bed draped with a frilly cascade of the road was another curious sight: we seemed to have left civilization far mosquito netting. a seemingly endless number of stalls behind. Afterwards, I met up with Jon at selling peri-peri sauce, Mozambique’s I also noticed something else was the bar for a beer. Manica, the local ubiquitous fiery condiment. conspicuously absent: a jetty. And brew, was a name that I seemed An hour after leaving Inhambane, a for that matter, a boat. I began to genetically unable to articulate,

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Zavora sunrise (above); Three views of Zavora Lodge (left and right)

mangling its pronunciation daily, much to the bewilderment of the barman. Established as a fishing lodge in the 1950’s, Zavora was a favourite destina- tion among South African anglers during the colonial days. With the country a tour- ism no-man’s land during the war years, the lodge was abandoned. Re-opening a decade ago, the lodge is now run by assemble my camera gear for the next a nice leisurely start, just the ticket after South Africans Charles and Carol Maker morning’s dive. With the generator set to my grueling trip. Arriving at the dive shop, and the fishermen have returned in droves. shut down at 10:00pm, I managed to get I started to assemble my gear and suit up. Zavora is a relative newcomer on coun- everything finished in the nick of time. Safely As the dives would be deep, Jon suggested try’s diving scene, with the dive shop open ensconced within my mosquito-netted bed, we use nitrox to maximize our bottom time. having been open for only two years. With I was lulled to sleep by the crashing surf It was then I noticed the inflatable boat Mozdivers the only game in town, we would below. parked alongside the shop’s open wall. have all the sites to ourselves! Brandishing a pair of twin outboard engines, After a tasty dinner of a chicken wrap Diving the rubberduck is the mainstay of the and chips, I hurried back to the room to As the day’s first dive wasn’t until 9:30, I had Southern African diving scene.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Fishing boats on the beach at Zavora; Fishermen preparing for the day’s outing; Portraits of Manuel, Yara and Jon

With no Once the gear was loaded, As I was the day’s wagon wearing black wetsuits proved jellyfish washed ashore by the incoming protective the tractor rumbled down the only diving guest, it decidedly toasty! Bumping along, we tide. Not something one would care to bays sandy incline to the beach was going to be an passed an assembly of fishing boats trod on. along the below. In the meantime, Jon employee trip and parked along the beach before Happily, our skilled driver triumphed coastline, the gave us a quick rundown of something of a mini reaching the entry point. on the first try. Everyone rushed to turn perpetually the day’s diving. United Nations. Along Jon often drives the tractor himself. the boat around so the bow faced the crashing with Jon and myself, I could just envision Mozdivers’ help ocean, pushing it forward so it didn’t surf made Deep Reef South was Brazilian Yara wanted ad: Experienced dive master get bogged down in the sand. Once erecting First up was Deep Reef South, Tibirice, director of required with technical training—tractor positioned, everyone clambered aboard, a jetty situated approximately 10km the Zavora Marine operation skills an asset. and we set out. offshore. Lab and nudibranch Those expecting lavish pampering are After 20 bumpy minutes, I asked Jon Running enthusiast; Pete in for a bit of a surprise, as Mozambique how much further we had to go. “We’re parallel to the Berney, her diving is very much a hands-on operation halfway there,” he responded cheerfully. impossible. Able to coast, Zavora’s intern from the with guests doing their part to assist with Seeing my crestfallen expression, he take a beating in the “deep reef” United Kingdom; the launch. laughed. “We’re here!” rough conditions, the system features Mozambican guide, Getting the boat in the water proved Part of an offshore chain of reefs, Deep rubberduck was the only multiple dive sites with Vino; and dive master, Manuel. I later to be an unequivocally tricky operation. Reef South features a large plateau pragmatic solution. I depths varying between discovered Manuel to be something of The tractor has to back up at just the at 27m with an east–west running wall would soon discover the 24 to 45 metres. Our entry a celebrity; he was the first-ever certified right speed so the trailer halts right at descending to a sandy bottom at entry procedure would point was approximately Mozambican tech diver. the water’s edge and the boat can 32m. With the coastline 10km away, I almost be as entertaining 500m further down the Shortly afterwards, the tractor slide off into the surf. If the trailer stops marveled as to how it was discovered as the dives themselves. beach, where a section re-appeared and was hooked up to a too close to the surf, the wheels can be in the first place. According to Jon, The vessel was perched exposed of reef provides two-wheeled wagon. “Hop aboard!” easily be mired in the wet sand. As an local fishermen have long known of its atop a trailer attached shelter from the crashing enthused Jon, and everyone piled on. added hazard, the beach was a bit of existence as a prime fishing spot. With to a well-used tractor. surf. Clumped together on a dark metal a minefield, with scores of bluebottle no discernible landmarks as a guide, the

36 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Snapper school; Bigeye school; Jon and potato travel bass; Starfish Mozambique soft corals, joined by aptly looked so untouched it felt like we were named sailfin rubberlips, the first to discover it. Diana’s hogfish, bigeyes, I also learned a vital lesson about blue-banded snapper Zavora: never turn off your camera and and massive potato grou- strobes, even when in blue water. While pers. At one point, I nearly ascending to the safety stop, a hefty blundered into metre-long potato bass cruised in for a look, soon honeycomb moray leisurely followed by a school of very peculiar undulating between out- fish. At first, it appeared to be a school of crops of coral. A school of silvery flounders undulating through the barracuda even made an water column. As they passed beneath appearance, making this us, I realized they weren’t flounders at all, one of the most action- but a type of fish swimming on their sides. packed dives I’ve ever Later on, Jon informed me they been on. The entire site were carpet trevally, a species with no

start. Moments Should I stop to take pictures or after plunging keep going? Not relishing the in, Yara quickly prospect of being left behind, I resurfaced and fired off a few images and caught exclaimed, up with the group. “I just saw a Arriving at the bottom, we sur- marlin!” Being prised a leopard shark, which the last one abruptly departed for quieter sur- in, I quickly roundings. Only the second one descended I’ve ever seen, it was already too to catch up far away before I could snap a with the others. photo. Seconds later, Although the reef top was some- I was engulfed what featureless, the drop-off was by a shimmering another story. Subtropical thistle horde of big- soft corals exploded in dazzling eye trevally, hues of lavender, yellow, white, presenting a orange, adorning the wall to the classical photo sandy bottom at 32 metres. Fan dilemma: corals were conspicuously absent, save for a few small specimens only way to find it is via GPS. In order designated to a few rocky out- to protect the reef, no mooring lines crops on the sand. Although the had been established. As a result, coral was extraordinary, it was the Jon utilized a towline with a float fish life that really impressed: Deep attached to the top in order for the Reef could easily be renamed “Big boat crew to monitor our progress. Fish Central! For the ensuing half Far below, the reef was easily hour, my camera went into over- discernible in the clear blue water. drive. “Twenty-five metre vis!” exclaimed Unfamiliar subtropical species Jon. That, combined with the rubbed shoulders with such famil- already relentless heat, was the cue iar tropical characters as emperor everyone needed, and we were all angelfish and common lionfish. geared up and ready in record time. Swarms of basslets, locally called The dive certainly had an auspicious goldies, swarmed amongst the

37 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM LFET: Blotched fan- tail ray; School of Mozambique glassfish; Mating travel Spanish dancers; School of carpet trevally

Vasco’s boasts a trio of cleaning stations: one at the drop (15m), another 40m inshore (16m) and a third 70m (12m) to the north. All are a favourite manta haunt, so we hoped for an encounter. Mozambique is home to two differ- ent manta species, including the newly identified giant manta. In fact, the research identifying this separate spe- cies was carried common name. Back at the surface out in nearby Tofo by renowned manta and still buzzing, I turned to Jon. “Oh researcher Dr Andrea Marshall. my GOD!” I exclaimed. “What an Alas, today wasn’t that day, as the amazing dive. That honeycomb moray mantas had been absent for nearly was the biggest I have ever seen!” Jon a month. Jon theorized they had grinned. “Everything is bigger in Africa!” sought refuge in the cooler waters of the deeper reefs to escape the warm Vasco’s water temperatures. I was beginning Eager for more, our next destination to think my trip might prove to be one was Vasco’s, two 2km offshore and a 30-minute ride away. Much shallower than Deep Reef and half the distance from shore, Vasco’s gets its name from metre and a half long anchor deeply of those “great hang, a massive blotched fantail ray embedded into the moments in bad sat immobile on a coral-encircled reef. Rumour has it timing” scenarios. patch of sand. Easily two metres that it dates from Despite the across, it was the biggest ray I had ever the time of Vasco absence of mantas, seen. By dive’s end, we spotted four de Gama, who there was no short- more, along with a spotted eagle ray passed through the age of ray action. and a pair of Jenkins whiptail rays. Add area in the late 15th Partially obscured some whitetip sharks along with snap- century. by a rocky over- pers, nudibranchs and a shimmering

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on my back wedged between the deep reef system the tanks and the side of the including Dean’s Drop, boat as everyone gawped with Arcadia and Yogi’s a mixture of shock and amuse- Den. Each bore similar ment. Fortunately, the only thing characteristics, with hurt was pride, and I couldn’t coral shrouded walls school of glassfish interspersed stop laughing. and a spectacular with copper sweepers and it all Back at the resort, I quickly array of large added up to an action-packed discovered I got a lot more than creatures. The mantas, 55 minutes! the 100-plus images on my flash however, remained My memory card bursting, card. In the rush to get ready, maddeningly elusive. we headed for home and the I forgot one very significant Several dives at moment I had been dread- item: sun block. The African sun Vasco’s revealed a ing all morning: The beaching. proved merciless, and by our wide range of crea- “Hang on” Jon exclaimed as mid-afternoon return, my hands tures both big and he opened both engines to and face resembled a freshly small, from mating full throttle and raced towards boiled lobster! Spanish dancers, shore. Not knowing what to The remainder of the week morays and octopus to expect, I twisted my body consisted of an identical green and loggerhead perpendicular to the boat, pattern, with morning dives turtles, whitetip sharks, grabbed a rope with my right on the outer reef followed rays and potato grou- hand and the metal pole above by afternoon dives inshore. pers. On one dive, the the tanks with the left. BIG mis- As a result of the prodigious water was literally pulsating with Area 51 take! Upon hitting the beach, fish life, my wide-angle lens legions of jellyfish. Fortunately, A pair of dives at nearby Area the duck ground to a halt. I, remained firmly affixed to the they were on the non-stinging 51 proved equally prolific. At however, kept going. Propelled camera. Each morning, we variety. 1.2km in length and named CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Green turtle resting on the reef; forward, I flipped over, landing visited a different site within after the American UFO hotspot, Potato bass; Zavora reef scene; Jellyfish 39 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Mozambique

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Diver and reef off Zavora; Quadricolour chromodoris pair; Manta; Purple-edged ceratosoma; Guitar shark resting on sea floor

what it was: manta poo! were rewarded with a fantastic guitar off, I decided to move closer. Scarcely Descending to a vast sandy shark encounter the next day at Deep believing my luck, I inched forward until area at 20m, we were treated Reef South. Unlike the previous skittish the creature’s pointy snout was brushing to a rare sight—a two-meter individual, this specimen proved quite my domeport! After a few more shots, guitar shark. An undersea tolerant, holding its ground as it rested it had enough and languidly swam off, oddball looking like a curious on the sand at 32m. Five of us settled settling down a few metres away. amalgamation of shark and on the sandy bottom, camera shutters That wasn’t the only surprise Deep ray, it was extremely shy and firing furiously. Once the others moved Reef had to offer. While swimming into bolted before a distinctly chilly thermocline we could get at 28m, Manuel gestured it boasts flying saucers of a different kind. remotely close. Some excitedly ahead. Out of the A shallow 6m cleaning station is a favou- rapid-fire tank bang- gloom, a distinctive pair of rite haunt of mantas, which have been ing by Jon caught my silhouettes were heading known to circle the flat-topped pinnacle attention. Ahead, on our way. Mantas! Scarcely in formation while waiting for a space to the periphery of vision, able to believe my eyes, the be cleaned. In theory, anyways as there I could barely discern graceful giants came to within were still none to be seen. They had a colossal silhouette metres of our euphoric group. been around, however. before it vanished in the Literally poetry in motion, they On one dive, Jon plucked something gloom. Back on the sur- swam alongside us for ten from the bottom and finned over to show face, Jon informed me spellbinding minutes. Although me. At first, I didn’t understand the grey- this was a hulking three- they weren’t the giant species, ish chunk’s identity but through a com- meter-long brindle bass. a manta is still a manta and bination of creative mime coupled with After the tantalizing my drought had finally been Jon’s mirthful expression, I quickly realized glimpse at Area 51, we broken.

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Purple-lined nembrotha; Geometric moray eel; Reef scene at Zavora; Coral trout

through. Descending to 20m, Totally engrossed with I finned through the narrow my photography, I heard opening, careful not to damage beeping, which I assumed any of the corals lining the to be the conservative wall. A crevice revealed a pair computer of one of the of quadricolour chromodoris other divers. After shooting nudibranchs. However, getting a a while longer, I glanced shot proved to be the undersea at my computer and my equivalent of playing Twister. eyes bulged. That had been Standing on the sandy bottom my own computer and I with less than half a metre on was now into deco. Make either side, I attempted to get that a LOT into deco! The some images, which quickly nudibranchs were quickly proved easier said than done. abandoned as I ascended

Sponge City home to abundant purple-lined After a week of shooting wide nembrothas, one of which was angle, I was eager for some in the process of consuming an macro and Jon had just the ascidian. Nearby, a purple-edged place. Only a few kilometres ceratosoma added a vivid splash for my safety stop, which signals and perplexed expressions, from shore, Sponge City was of colour to the drab undersea ended up being 15 I could discern her laughing into Yara’s favourite nudibranch vegetation. minutes (my new all-time her regulator. With ample time location. Entering the water, I soon happened across the record). to spare, I kept myself amused it didn’t take her long to find site’s distinguishing feature—a As I sheepishly by photographing the endless some photo subjects. A large large cleft in the seabed wide explained my predica- parade of jellyfish swimming flat area at around 16m was enough for a diver to swim ment to Yara via hand past. Back on the boat, I sheep-

41 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Barracuda school; Blue- spotted stingray; Bigeye travel trevally; Surgeonfish Mozambique patio boasting great views of the and its most famous undesea resi- beach, I tucked into a flatbread-style dents—the whale sharks. Research pizza watching the warm hues of late by Dr Simon Pierce of the Foundation afternoon meld into dusk. for the Protection of Megafauna has The next morning, I walked the few revealed that Tofo has “the largest scant metres to the dive shop for number of reported year round whale breakfast. I met up with owners, John shark sightings in the world”. and Nikki Pears, who had just arrived Just to the south of Tofo’s bay, an from South Africa. Over coffee, John offshore area approximately one gave me a bit of info on the area half-mile wide and four miles long, is

Great Wall South Tofo On my last dive at Zavora, After a superlative week, it was time Murphy’s Law made an unwanted to bid adieu to Zavora and move on appearance. For our inshore dive, to my next destination. Situated on Jon had decided on Great Wall the Ponto do Barra peninsula 22km South. With my laptop crammed from Inhambane, the small town of with wide-angle images, I switched Praia do Tofo—or simply Tofo—has to macro. Minutes into the dive, I emerged as one of Mozambique’s was scouring the wall for macro premier tourist destinations. Boasting subjects. I had just happened upon an imposing sweep of Indian Ocean a scorpionfish when a frenetic bout beachfront, Tofo (pronounced tofu) of tank banging heralded the arrival is home to a broad array of beach of something significant. Whirling villas, restaurants, Internet cafes and around, my stomach sank. Cruising dive centres. Compared to the wilds right in my direction was a leopard of Zavora, it might as well have been shark. Photographically helpless with Waikiki Beach. my macro lens, it cruised by at arm’s Arriving late in the afternoon, Tofo length. Curses! Scuba was a bit of a shock after my week in the wilderness. Established a decade ago, it is a large ishly apologized to everyone and operation with an exten- vowed it wouldn’t happen again sive staff, most of them (on this trip, anyway). South African. My accom- On my last evening, Jon drove modation was right next up to the lighthouse on a nearby door at the Aquatico’s hill. Although he said the keeper Beachside Casitas. The might not let us in, Jon was armed roomy interior featured a with a secret weapon—a couple kitchenette and, best of of cold Manicas. The lighthouse all, 24-hour electricity and keeper’s stern countenance multiple plugs. For dinner, quickly melted into a smile and I ambled over to Dino’s he opened the locked door. We Beach Bar, a Tofo icon ascended the winding staircase to complete with internet the top, which offered command- café. With an expansive ing views of the entire area.

42 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Tofo Beach travel Mozambique grouper approached anticipating a handout. The fish were extraordinarily tame and had obviously been fed in the past. Although fish feeding has long been discouraged, it sure doesn’t stop them from trying! A massive outcrop riddled with numerous outcrops and spires of rock, Hogwarts lived up to its namesake. Green tree corals sprouted from the walls while goldies swarmed in abundance along with semicircle angelfish, longnose butterflyfish, blue- banded snappers and white-barred rubberlips.

Chamber of Secrets Situated smack dab in Whale Shark Alley, our next stop was The Chamber of Secrets. Boasting numerous swim- throughs and caves, the horseshoe- shaped formation featured walls ascending 6-8m from the sandy bottom. Unfortunately, surface conditions created an underwater maelstrom of sediment, wreaking havoc on the visibility. As photography would be virtually impossible, I decided to just enjoy the dive. Lots of interesting sponges adorned the wall, while rocky overhangs har- boured aggregations nudibranchs, red and white striped giant squirrelfish and red soldierfish. A large porcupinefish peeked from a crevice while a sandy patch below housed a well-camou- flaged crocodilefish. Enroute to Tofo, we kept an eye out for whale sharks, but it was too rough to snorkel even if we saw one. At the dive centre, the news was ominous. Conditions were expected to deterio- rate over the next few days and diving prospects looked grim. The culprit was a cyclone over Madagascar. Although not Whale Shark Alley—a prime aggrega- Hogwarts face chop seem like a millpond by com- turned out to be pretty rough. Massive heading in our immediate direction, it tion area. As they are often encountered My first day at Tofo proved to be Harry parison. Also, due to a lack of shelter, the waves lashed the headland, making me was already affecting surface conditions travelling to and from the dive sites, stops Potter day. First up was Hogwarts—a boat had to be put in right on the crash- grateful the site was a reasonable dis- over an enormous swathe of coastline. are often made to snorkel with these 30-minute boat ride from the dive shop. ing surf. Dive guides, Darren and Damien, tance offshore. As in Zavora, locating the gentle giants. Just to be safe, I fitted a Having mastered Zavora entry proce- ensured everything ran smoothly and site was achieved via GPS. After several Giant’s Garden second housing fitted with a domeport. dures in, I assumed Tofo would be no everyone got on board without incident. passes, the boatman moved into position With conditions deteriorating, John Bring on the whale sharks! different. Wrong! Surface conditions had A quidditch broom would have been a and everyone entered the water. wanted to get me out for one last worsened overnight, making Zavora’s sur- preferable mode of transport, as the ride Soon afterwards, a pair of hefty potato dive at nearby Giant’s Garden. The

43 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Mozambique day before, five mantas had been we had to ascend spotted there, so my fingers were with no further crossed. With Darren and Damien sightings. as my able guides, we ventured All was not lost, into the surf. “This isn’t so bad,” I however. A large thought to myself. Moments later, my cleft in a rock face newfound optimism was quashed, revealed a robust as a particularly large wave sent me lobster. Boldly temporarily airborne. Fortunately, I regarding me had been tightly grasping the rope with beady eyes, and stayed on board. I was able to get Continuously buffeted by big close enough so waves, steadying the boat proved to its twitching anten- be a challenge, but we did a back- nae grazed my ward roll and quickly descended. domeport. Another In addition to visibility hampered by free-swimming the conditions above, there was also honeycomb moray some current to contend with. Their obligingly posed polyps extended, green tree cor- for some photos, als scooped passing nutrients while while a school of Damien pointed out a pair of slipper big-eye treval- lobsters hiding at the bottom of a bar- ley made several rel sponge. close passes. It was Arriving at our destination at around at that point I real- 20m, we waited for the star attrac- ized my strobes tion. Peering into the gloom, I barely were only firing discerned a pair of mantas cruising intermittently. Fortunately, some stra- off the wall, but was too far away for tegic cord jiggling ensured I was able photographs. Unfortunately, our bot- to get some images. Such are the joys tom time elapsed far too quickly, and of water and electronics. The dive had one more surprise in store. As we hovered in our safety stop, a devil ray appeared from the gloom, making several curious passes around our elated group. Then without warning, it rocketed to the depths below with an incred- ible burst of speed. My ray tally was now up to six species—a record for one trip. With the day’s diving scuttled, I had a bite CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Reef at to eat at the dive cen- Hogwart’s; Devil ray; Lobster and tre’s restaurant. While a young and extremely talented in the dive centre office, and it was sea urchin on reef; Honeycomb waiting for my food, I South African videographer based in extraordinary. Along with whale sharks moray eel met Ritchie Van Wyck, Tofo. We watched some of his work and mantas, it included footage of

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Guest house at Tofo Lodge (above); Tofo Scuba (left) overlooks the sea; Scenes from the marketplace; Smells of barbeque chicken and hotdogs (far right) drift through the air of the marketplace

a small-eyed sting- ray, which, at 3m, is the world’s biggest. Watching all the won- ders on screen and not being able to dive bordered on cruelty! Portuguese was non-existent, a few ges- northern tip of the peninsula. According thereof) was only suitable for the land was required were a few steps to the Later in the afternoon, I wandered tures procured me a big bag of man- to Tibea—the staff’s resident macro rover’s four-wheel drive. The staff loaded water’s edge. As the lagoon was shal- over to the photogenic local market, situ- goes and some ice-cold Manicas to take fanatic—its sheltered waters were a our gear to transport it to the water’s low, it was a bit of a swim to the deeper ated across the road from the beach. back to the room. One of the real joys of haven for critters. Sold! edge before coming back to pick up the water. While it certainly won’t win acco- A perpetual hive of activity, vendors Tofu is its safety, being perfectly safe to remainder of the divers. lades in the beauty department, the tempted passers by with a wide array of walk around day or night. The lagoon After the week’s adrenaline-pumping lagoon’s sand-covered bottom proved colourful batik clothing along with t-shirts, The next day brought unwelcome Transport was via a car and a decidedly entry procedures, the lagoon proved to be a macro mecca whose tangles of woven baskets and various bric-a-brac. news. With the typhoon lingering it battered land rover and with everyone refreshingly sedate. The sheltered waters seagrass housed a bewildering diversity Chicken, fish and sausages sizzled on appeared diving would be out for the aboard, we set out on the 30-minute were quite calm, with scarcely a hint of of strange creatures. Perfectly mimick- grills, while market stalls were crammed remainder of the week. However, when drive. Pulling into a parking area near wave action. The maximum depth? No ing their surroundings, filefish hovered with an array of fresh fruit, vegetables one door closes another opens. John our destination, the car had to stay more than three metres. motionless amid the seagrass, while one cashews and basic groceries. As my suggested we dive the lagoon at the behind, as the road ahead (or lack After gearing up on the beach, all that small clearing revealed a diminutive

45 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Zavora Marine Lab Mozambique The Zavora Marine Lab was travel established in 2009 to promote and facilitate research and conservation in southern Mozambique. Under the direction of B.Sc. M. (Ecotourism) Yara Tibiriçá (Iemanja – Marine Conservation), the laboratory works in partnership with Mozdivers Zavora, Zavora Lodge and the Oceans Research. Since its inception, the lab has developed vital research for the region and raised environmental awareness through a series of educational programs for both visitors and local communities. Zavora is one of the few places where both species of manta rays (Manta birostris and Manta alfredi) can be seen year-round and offers the unique opportunity to study a marine environment that has had minimal to no impact from recreational diving activities. A number of projects are currently being developed to study manta populations, divers’ impacts on mantas and their cleaning stations, diversity and distribution of nudibranchs, reef monitoring, socio-economic studies snake eel peering from the horse fashion, it always looked Seeing another diver intently on dive tourism and the relative sand. With bodies adorned the other way as I tried to photographing, I approached abundance of migratory humpback with an array of bizarre spines photograph it. To counter the to discover a tiny octopus peer- whales. Studies to date highlight and protuberances, an array dilemma, Damien swam up to ing out from the confines of a the diversity of Zavora’s marine of blennies remained immo- it. As it turned away and faced shell. It was easily the smallest life. Over 70 individual manta rays bile only to dart off when me, presto, I got my image. I’d ever seen, barely larger have been catalogued along with approached too closely. We headed back to the than a fingernail. Nearby, I dis- 83 nudibranch species (including A plethora of sandperch lagoon the following day, and cerned a blenny peering from a few undescribed species) and patrolled the sandy areas it didn’t disappoint. Although the opening of a green vase- 214 fish species. In addition, four along with legions of sea things started slowly, the critter shaped “thing”. Boasting a reef monitoring surveys have been urchins. Crabs were every- parade picked up during the horned, pink-tinged head with completed. where, which was a rather dive’s second half. However, puckering lips, the nervous fish Visitors wishing to learn more surprising sight during daylight there were some hazards to quickly retreated into its odd about marine science and the hours. They also appeared to contend with. Retreating slowly looking domicile. Moments area’s marine life may apply for be a prime entree on the local to frame a sandperch, I inad- later, it popped out for another a month-long internship program menu, as partially consumed vertently blundered into a clus- peek. Our game of hide and (limited space and CV required) or remains were strewn every- ter of urchins. As I was wearing seek continued until I was able participate in a marine conservation where by unseen diners. At open toed fins, my big toe to obtain some frame-filling scientific dive course focusing on one point, Damien motioned scored a direct hit. Fortunately, images. I later discovered the manta rays (15 days of theoretical me over to a cluster of weeds. no pieces broke off inside, but “thing” to be a horse mussel. and practical field work, this Closer inspection revealed a the ensuing dull ache was a Glancing at my computer, program is exclusively for groups dark brown seahorse stretched reminder to be more vigilant of I realized our allotted hour from six to eight people). ■ out on the sand. In true sea- my surroundings. was nearly up, so I turned CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Filefish displays ingenious camouflage blending into its surroundings; Snake eel pokes head out of sand; Crab; Dwarf lionfish 46 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Mozambique

Tech Diving sel’s sinking, as eyewitness testimonies, With the majority of its reefs beyond the captain’s log and the findings of the 30m, Zavora offers a plethora of oppor- tribunal that followed contain conflicting tunities for deeper and exploration div- accounts. The initial theory, concluded ing. Previously, tech diving in Southern by the tribunal and at least one passen- Mozambique had been limited to groups ger account, is the vessel struck charted bringing all their own equipment, includ- rocks about one mile off shore and drift- ing compressor and a chartered boat. ed to her present position. This is now dis- Mozdivers Zavora now offers technical puted, as the rocks in question are part diving and training through IANTD, open- of a very long reef sloping down from six ing up another realm of pristine, sites not to more than 20 metres. A ship traveling TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Octopus eating crab; yet dived. at cruising speed would be more likely to Seahorse; Lyre-tail sandperch; Porcupinefish An absolute must area is the wreck run aground rather than drift away after of the Klipfontein, a 160-meter-long a collision. The most popular theory is to swim for shore. At that moment, a cargo and passenger ship built in 1937 in that the vessel struck a ‘dead’ German peculiar shape caught my eye amid Rotterdam for the Holland Africa line. On U-Boat floating just under the surface. the undulating seagrass. Gelatinous 8 January 1953, while enroute between However, with no conclusive evidence, in appearance, its spindly body bore Cape Town to Rotterdam, the vessel the sinking of the Klipfontein remains a series of large flaps adorned with struck an object off the coast of Zavora shrouded in mystery. hair-like filaments. Perplexed, I realized and sunk within three hours. Today, the vessel has since become this was no plant. Whatever it was, it Situated six kilometers off Zavora point, a vibrant artificial reef, home to lush was moving. Suddenly, it’s transparent the vessel rests on a sandy bottom at whip and bush corals and a thriving fish “head’ swelled disproportionately and 53m. The stern remains largely intact, population. Highlights of a dive include proceeded to envelop some plant lying on her starboard side and separat- massive resident brindle bass the size of a matter on the substrate. What on earth ed from the rest of the ship. Most of the small car, the huge port propeller and a was I looking at? Back at the dive hull is inverted or “turned turtle”, lying on chance to see mantas. Large aggrega- centre, the answer was soon revealed. her decks, with the bow broken off and tions of trevally, kob and barracuda are It was a nudibranch—specifically, a pointing towards the surface. Ascending routinely encountered over the wreck Melibe fimbriata and a new species to to 36 meters in places, the wreck and is while Zambezi and spinner sharks have add to my checklist. surrounded by a debris field of remains been observed both on the wreck and and artifacts. during the blue water decompression Blenny in Much controversy surrounds the ves- stop. ■ horse mussel 47 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Tubastrea corals; Scenes from Inhambane street life; Inhambane Mosque (top right); Inhambane Cathedral; (bottom right); Tiny octopus in shell (inset below)

Inhambane and Muslim culture, the sleepy provin- With diving sadly finished, John arranged cial capital of 50,000 is renowned for a city tour of Inhambane for my last day. its colonial and art deco architecture. A 20-minute drive from Tofo, Inhambane The three-hour tour took in a variety of is one of the oldest settlements on attractions including the museum, train Mozambique’s east coast, having station, a pair of mosques and the his- been a major port for Muslim toric Cathedral of Nossa Senhora de and Persian traders Conceicao, which dates from the late since the 11th 18th century. The area adjacent to the century. A train station was somewhat eerie. Sitting permanent astride tracks overgrown with weeds, Portuguese decrepit steam locomotives and rolling settlement was stock sat where they were abandoned established in 1534 many decades ago. and became the Although my Tofo visit did exactly go site of East Africa’s according to plan, it was nevertheless first Jesuit mission highly enjoyable. It’s easygoing tropical in 1560. Legendary vibe combined with tantalizing glimpses explorer Vasco da of its undersea wonders had me eager Gama stopped to return. In the end, Mozambique by in the late proved to be nothing short of a 15th century, revelation. During my two-week stay, proclaiming it Terra I observed an array of creatures I’d de Boa Gente or always dreamed of. With its winning ‘Land of the Good combination of fantastic diving and People’. vibrant culture, it’s a destination I look A mixture of old forward to experiencing again. Besides, world Portuguese the whale sharks will be waiting. ■

48 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RIGHT: Location of Lake TANZANIA the Mozambique Nyasa on map of Africa FAR RIGHT: Location of Inhambane on map ZAMBIA of Mozambique Pemba factMozambique file Lichinga MALAWI Cidade de Nacala

Nampula source: cia.gov world factbook Tete History After nearly five centuries as to continue sound economic policies Protocol, Desertification, Endangered Population 22,948,858 Z am a Portuguese colony, Mozambique that encouraged foreign investment. Species, Hazardous Wastes, Law of (July 2011 est.) Note: be zi gained independence in 1975. This was In October 2009, he was reelected the Sea, Ozone Layer Protection, Ship higher than average Quelinmane followed by large-scale emigration, a to a second term. But, the elections Pollution, Wetlands. death rates due to AIDS. severe drought, economic dependence were tainted by voter fraud, dubious Ethnic grouops: African ZIMBABWE on South Africa, and a prolonged disqualification of candidates, and Economy Mozambique was one of the 99.66% (Makhuwa, Chimoio l e civil war which thwarted the nation’s Frelimo use of government resources world’s poorest countries at the time of its Tsonga, Lomwe, Sena, n n development until the mid 1990s. In in campaign activities. This resulted independence in 1975. Exacerbating the and others), Europeans a Monte Beira h 1989, the ruling Front for the Liberation in the removal of Mozambique from situation was Socialist mismanagement 0.06%, Euro-Africans 0.2%, C Binga of Mozambique (Frelimo) party formally the Freedom House list of electoral and a brutal civil war from 1977-92. In Indians 0.08%. Religions: e abandoned Marxism. The following year, democracies. Government: Republic. order to stabilize the economy, the Catholic 28.4%, Muslim u q i a new constitution provided for multiparty Capital: government embarked in 1987 on a 17.9%, Zionist Christian b elections and a free market economy. series of macroeconomic reforms. This 15.5%, Evangelical m In 1992, a peace agreement negotiated Geography Mozambique is located action in addition to donor assistance Pentacostal 10.9%, Vila Eduardo a z by the UN between Frelimo and rebel in Southeastern Africa. It borders the and political stability since the multi- Anglican 1.3%, other Mondlane o Mozambique National Resistance , between South party elections in 1994, led to dramatic relitions 7.2%, no relition M (Renamo) forces ended the violence. Africa and Tanzania. Coastline: 2,470km. improvements in the nation’s growth rate. 18.7% (2007 census). Inhambane After 18 years in office, Joaquim Chissano The terrain is mostly coastal lowlands, Despite these gains, the majority of the Internet users: 613,600 stepped down in December 2004 and uplands in the interior, high plateaus in population remains below the poverty (2009) Mozambique experienced a delicate the northwest and mountains in the west. line and the country remains dependent SOUTH transition with his elected successor, Lowest point: Indian Ocean 0m. Highest upon foreign assistance for more than Language Emakhuwa AFRICA Armando Emilio Guebuza, who promised point: Monte Binga 2,436m. half of its annual budget. Subsistence 25.3%, Portuguese (the MAPUTO agriculture is the main source of income official language) 10.7%, I N D I A N Climate Mozambique’s climate is for the vast majority of the country’s Xichangana 10.3%, SWAZ. OCEAN tropical to subtropical. Natural hazards work force. Smallholder agricultural Cisena 7.5%, Elomwe 7%, include severe droughts, destructive productivity and productivity growth is Echuwabo 5.1%, other cyclones and floods in the central and weak. Natural resources: coal, titanium, Mozambican languages southern provinces. natural gas, hydropower, tantalum, 30.1%, other languages graphite. Agriculture: cotton, cashew 4% (2007 census) Decompression Chambers Environmental Issues Increased nuts, sugarcane, tea, cassava (tapioca), National Hyperbarics migration to coastal and urban areas corn, coconuts, sisal, citrus and tropical Health Issues There is a very high Cape Town, South Africa have had adverse environmental fruits, potatoes, sunflowers; beef, poultry. degree of risk for food or waterborne Nationalhyperbarics.co.za consequences brought about by a Industries: food, beverages, chemicals diseases such as bacterial and protozoal Hyperbaric Medicine Centre, Durban, long civil war and recurrent drought in (fertilizer, soap, paints), aluminum, diarrhea, hepatitis A, and typhoid fever; South Africa. 24 Hour Phone: 031 2685000 the back country. Other issues include petroleum products, textiles, cement, vectorborne diseases such as malaria desertification and pollution of surface glass, asbestos, tobacco. and plague; water contact disease such Websites and coastal waters. There is also a as schistosomiasis; and animal contact Mozambique Tourism problem with elephant poaching for Currency Meticais (MZM). Exchange disease such as rabies (2009) www.mozambiquetourism.co.za ivory. The nation is party to: Biodiversity, rate: 1USD=26.70MZM; 1GBP=43.31MZN; Climate Change, Climate Change-Kyoto 1AUD=27.17MZN; 1SGD=21.98MZN

Blenny in horse mussel 49 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED