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GlasgowPOP 595,100

Why Go? Sights...... 103 Disarmingly blending sophistication and earthiness, Scot- Activities...... 115 land’s biggest city has evolved over the last couple of decades to become one of Britain’s most intriguing metropolises. Tours...... 116 At first glance, the soberly handsome Victorian buildings, Festivals & Events...... 116 legacies of wealth generated from manufacturing and trade, Sleeping...... 118 suggest a staid sort of place. Very wrong. They are packed Eating...... 124 with stylish bars, top-notch restaurants, hedonistic clubs Drinking & Nightlife...... 128 and one of Britain’s best live-music scenes. The sheer vitality is gloriously infectious: the combination of edgy urbanity Entertainment...... 130 and the residents’ legendary friendliness is captivating. Shopping...... 133 also offers plenty by day. Its shopping – whether Around Glasgow...... 135 you’re looking for Italian fashion or pre-loved denim – is famous and there are top-drawer museums and galleries. Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s sublime designs dot the city, which also innovatively displays its industrial heritage. The Best Places to , traditionally associated with Glasgow’s earthier Stay side, is now a symbol of the city’s renaissance. ¨¨Malmaison (p120) ¨¨ (p120) When to Go ¨¨Hotel du Vin (p121) Glasgow ¨¨Alamo Guest House (p121) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall Inches/mm ¨¨Grasshoppers (p118) 40/104 10/250 30/86 8/200

20/68 6/150

Best Places to 10/50 4/100

Eat 0/32 2/50 ¨ ¨Ubiquitous Chip (p127) -10/14 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Stravaigin (p127) ¨¨Mother India (p127) Feb The drizzle Jun The West End Aug Glasgow is ¨¨Loon Fung (p125) won’t lift? Maroon Festival and the friendly at any yourself in one Glasgow Jazz Fes- time, but when ¨¨Saramago Café Bar (p124) of Glasgow’s tival make the city the sun is shining fabulous pubs or music heaven. there’s no happier clubs. city in Britain. Glasgow SiSIGghHTSts 103

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ILDING BU IC HISTOR ILDING BU IC HISTOR www.gsa.ac.uk/

adult/child £9.75/4.75; adult/child

9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, of central Glasgow: see the Glasgow: of central h 0141-353 4526; 0141-353 www.willowtearooms.co.uk;

Rennie Mackintosh’s greatest greatest Mackintosh’s Rennie %

; Admirers of the great Charles Admirers of the great

; 167 Renfrew St; Renfrew 167 F

Charles

Art of School Glasgow Particularly impressive is the thorough impressive Particularly of end the at shop Mackintosh a There’s Visits are by excellent hour-long guided excellenthour-long by are Visits 9.30am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov- 10am-5pm Mar-Oct, 9.30am-6.30pm website for details.website Sun) Rennie Mackintosh will love the Willow the love will Mackintosh Rennie reconstruction an authentic of Tearooms, designed and fur tearooms Mackintosh Feb) building – extensively damaged by fire in by fire building – extensively damaged by renova be limited so access may 2014, walking tourswalking Tearooms Willow (Map p106 20th early the in nished century restaufor the relive can You Cranston. Kate rateur original splendour of this unique tearoom distinctive while admiring the architect’s touch in just about every element; he had a free rein and even the teaspoons were Reconstruction took his attention. given and the Willow reopened as a years two been closed since tearoom in 1980 (having 1926). lations available) run by architecture stu available) lations new from the building;dents. These leave busy times. at book online or by phone pencil the architect’s the design; ness of shaped everythingseems to have inside building.and outside the The interior is strikinglyaustere, com colour with simple (oftenbinations just black and cream) and the uncomfortable-looking high-backed is famous. chairs for which Mackintosh designed as an addition in The library, is a masterpiece. 1907, folk same the visit, the liked you If tour. the run recommended architecturally-minded o 106(Map p h its original func still – fulfils tion works tion, so just the steady follow stream of eclectically students dressed up the hill to architectural of Glasgow’s one it. It’s find by and has now been joined showpieces spectacular green glacial, StevenHoll’s Building) right School of Design (the Reid it but combination, risqué A opposite. works. in summer; 11am, tours (roughly hourly trans multilingual 1pm and 3pm in winter, tours; Sauchiehall St; Sauchiehall ------going regener going term regenera term - Sights City Centre In the first half of the 20th the first In century Glas In the 18th century, much of the tobac much of the the 18thIn century, 1 and pedestrian streetsThe grid layout it easy to get centre make of the city around, and there are numerous cafes and pit stops between good make pubs that attractions. ly dispersed, with many found along the found along ly dispersed, with many Clydefocus(the long a of are free. museums Many tion program). eration to a wide global audience. eration 1 major sights are fairly even Glasgow’s ation process gives grounds for optimism. process gives ation Com The successful hosting of the 2014 highlighted this regen Games monwealth ban developmentban culturalbooming a and injected and confidence sector style have though the standard of living into the city; remains low for Britain and life continues the on­ to be tough for many, ymous with unemployment, economic unemployment, with ymous depression and urban violence, centred as such schemes housing high-rise around ur recently, the infamous Gorbals. More gow was the centre of Britain’s munitions Britain’s the centre of was gow for the supplying arms and ships industry, of which the wars, in the second world two how­ was carpet-bombed.city Post-war, industries began the port heavy and ever, to dwindle, and by the early 1970s the city became synon doomed. Glasgow looked co trade between Europe and the USA the USA Europe and between co trade a providing was routed through Glasgow, after the to Even source of wealth. great 19th declined in the trade bacco century, to prosper as a centre continued the city of textile manufacturing, shipbuilding and the coal and steel industries. The outward was however, of prosperity, appearance conditions working tempered by the dire in the factories. Glasgow grew around the cathedral found grewGlasgow the cathedral around St Mun to become later St Kertigan, ed by with Unfortunately, 6th in the go, century. virtually the exception of the cathedral, It remains. the medievalnothing of city by the energies of a new away was swept capitalism, the Industrial of – the age age Revolution British Empire. and the History