TRAVEL FEATURE

Castellammare del Golfo

it already. And, with classic films such as plate of spaghetti alla vongole (spaghetti with Cinema Paradiso and Il Postino, he instilled clams), fragrant with garlic, white wine, in me a love of Italian cinema that I carry chilli, oil and parsley, while my friends to this day. My 16-year-old Australian body tuck into busiate alla norma — a traditional felt as though it had an Italian soul, so I was Sicilian speciality made with eggplants devastated when stole my adopted and hand-rolled corkscrew curls of pasta family back to its sun-dappled shores. that hail from the nearby town of Spaghetti More years than I care to acknowledge — couscous with raisins and saffron and alla vongole have passed since then, and I think it’s a risotto thick with frutti di mare (seafood). about time the island made it up to me. It’s simple food packed with flavour, which Convincing three girlfriends to come also provides a sensory tableau of Sicily’s on an early autumn road trip that would mottled history. The ancient Greeks, for feature lots of beach time, warm weather, example, spoke of the island’s seafood, intriguing historical sites and all the shellfish, fruit and vegetables, while the seafood pasta you could eat proved to be Saracens () of the 9th century brought a simple task, which is why in late with them eggplant, spices, citrus fruit, September we found ourselves hurtling pistachios and almonds. < Chocolate- covered cannoli down the highway from ’s airport The following morning we leave towards , a tiny behind the colourful boats bobbing in the fishing village on Sicily’s north-west coast. aquamarine harbour and head west. We’re Sicily’s countryside We had made the difficult decision on our way to San Vito Lo Capo — a place to save a visit to Palermo — the Sicilian that a local has told us has the best beach known for its Byzantine mosaics, in the world. We take our time (Italian t’s fair to say Sicily and I got off on Baroque architecture and shabby-chic drivers unfortunately do live up to their the wrong foot. The Mediterranean streets — for another trip. It had been reckless stereotype), stopping at lookouts island, located off the toe of a long, busy year and we wanted to begin to marvel at the coastline and taking ’s proverbial boot, was the our break with something calmer than the the back roads where possible. Against birthplace of Christina, my best hustle and bustle of one of Italy’s most a soundtrack that includes Alt-J, Robbie The beach at San Vito Lo Capo friend in high school. Like all notoriously animated towns. We arrive Williams and arias from Wagner’s BFFs at that age, we spent a lot of time at our first destination not long after Ring Cycle, we pass centuries-old stone at each other’s houses. At mine, we sunset and head straight to the small row farmhouses, small quarries that pockmark Road trippin’ Ilistened to Madonna, swam in our pool of restaurants that border the port. the rolling hills with pure white gashes and and mercilessly teased my younger sister, Sicilian cuisine is one of the main the odd eucalyptus tree. while at hers we devoured large plates of reasons people flock to these shores. Just as we begin to tire of our playlist, spaghetti, tried on her mother’s Italian Spectacular local produce matched with we’re confronted with a sheer cliff across Sicily designer clothes and listened to her father a culinary repertoire that reflects the reminiscent of the lofty peaks that border Michele wax lyrical on the old country. island’s diverse history has resulted Rio’s famous Ipanema Beach. As we edge A car, good company and a taste for adventure Michele spoke longingly of the deep in myriad flavour combinations — all closer, a strip of yellow sand comes into blue sea and the flavoursome tomatoes of which have been honed across the view, peppered with locals flying kites, are all you need to uncover this wild, raw you can only get in Italy. He described the centuries to create something altogether swimming and soaking up the final rays of island at the foot of Italy. By Kate McAuley small seaside village that he grew up in so unique and nothing less than exceptional. the late summer sunshine. Hawkers pick colourfully that I felt as though I’d visited For our first meal I choose a steaming their way through the small crowd, selling

134 ELLE.MY TRAVEL FEATURE

> A Baroque church in hats, cold drinks, cheap jewellery and structures, including the Tempio di Sicily in style massages. There are deckchairs, loungers Giunone and the Tempio della Concordia Sicily is not usually thought of as and umbrellas to rent for a few Euros each, (Temples of Juno and Concord respectively). a luxury destination, but there are but we slap down our towels, strip off to Gathering at the top, we take a moment a growing number of gem hotels for our suits and sprint into the sea. to appreciate the impressive view, turning those looking for something plush. It may not be the best beach in the our backs on the messy skyline world, but it’s certainly up there as one and instead gazing south, across the vast of my favourites. The temperature is cool expanse of the Mediterranean Sea. Not Situated among vineyards The Greek Theatre enough to be refreshing, but warm enough wanting to leave the magic behind just yet, in the Agrigento region, of Taormina to be comfortable. The water is clear and we take a late lunch at Kokalos. With an PLANETA ESTATE — LA there’s just enough of a swell to lift us off uninterrupted vista of temples and a menu Greeks and Romans both inhabited Modica, the Piazza del Duomo. The church, which FORESTERIA (planetaestate.it) our feet before returning us gently to the sea that introduces us to pistachio-based pasta offers lessons on local wine it was during the 14th century — when is the centre point of the square, is a mish- floor. The sky is cloudless and the breeze is sauces, this restaurant is a must-visit. and cooking classes. the city was controlled by the powerful mash of architectural styles that began as balmy. A few hours later, sun-kissed and Before heading away from the sea, we Chiaramonte family — that it became one an temple to the goddess deliciously flaky with salt and sand, we backtrack slightly, again on local advice. of Italy’s power players; this history still Athena, the Doric columns of which can be pile back into the car to head to Agrigento, The sign pointing to the Scala dei Turchi informs both its architecture and taste buds. seen from outside the church. on the south coast. (Turkish Staircase) is hand-painted and We drop our bags at Palazzo Il The next day, we’re treated to cries of History buffs shouldn’t look The city itself is famous not for its weather-beaten, contradicting the natural Cavaliere, a B&B that was once a palace “Food is for eating not for looking” and further than the VILLA centre, but the pearls on its periphery. beauty that lies ahead. A short walk around and now houses well-appointed guest “How you from?” The traders at the Antico ATHENA (hotelvillaathena.it) We stay in a hotel on the outskirts and get the point reveals a stark promontory of rooms and a breakfast room with a view Mercato (ancient market) tease us from < The Turkish for its unrivalled views of the Staircase up early the next morning to visit the Valle white rock tipping from the coast into ancient Greek ruins in the of the Chiesa di San Giorgio — a stunning their stalls as we jostle with nonnas doing dei Templi (Valley of the Temples). Given the sea. We join a small crowd of people . Baroque church that stands on the hill their daily shop. We watch as fishermen that modern-day Sicily is very much part on the chalky slopes where the weather- opposite. Eager to stretch our legs, we expertly knife open sea urchins and gut of Italy, you’d be forgiven for thinking worn curves of these so-called ‘steps’ (it’s climb the 250 steps for closer inspection. anchovies with nothing more than a sharp these ancient ruins were left behind by a natural phenomenon that belies its name) The interior is impressive, but it’s thumbnail. The tomatoes and aubergines the Romans. It was the Greeks in the 5th surprisingly conform to our own. Modica’s topsy-turvy alley ways, well- are dark red and purple orbs, the lemons The century BC who began erecting the temples It’s the swim from here, however, that VERDURA RESORT trodden staircases and corner coffee shops are a disconcerting lime green. We dream of is perfect that still preside over the hills below. makes this a place worth remembering. (roccofortehotels.com) that call for our attention. It’s the same moving here, our remaining days happily for anyone looking to be We get our first view from the road We follow the locals’ lead and cross feeling we get when we visit the nearby replete with sea-salted capers, fragrant pampered. It boasts a private — dusty pink and ochre yellow columns a convenient platform (another generous Mediterranean beachfront towns of Ragusa and . There is a sense olive oil, purplish garlic bulbs and octopus rising up in reverence to a clutch of ancient gift from Mother Nature) at the base of the and a world-class spa. of history in these well lived-in places freshly dragged from the ocean floor. deities. We start our walking tour at the escarpment and dive into the ocean, forcing and getting lost in the tangle of streets Not everything about Ortygia is old, lower western edge of the site, following the quietest girl of our group to exclaim at is almost as important as visiting the sites however. There is a groundswell of creative a well-maintained wooden footpath, the top of her lungs “THIS IS ABSOLUTELY and sampling the food. types looking to stake their own claim flanked by almond and olive trees and GORGEOUS!” Her voice reverberates But eat we must. Traditional cooking on the city. MOON (Move Ortigia Out of carved boulders that would’ve once been across the bay, audible from the far side Design fiends will love CASA here is best tasted at Osteria dei Sapori Normality) is an interesting enterprise that TALÍA . The part of the ancient buildings. of the shore — we know because we have (casatalia.it) Perduti in Modica. The name literally incubates young artists and puts on several boutique hotel has a new In silence, we branch off, making our our lunch on the beach and a waiter asks means the ‘restaurant of lost flavours’. events a week, which can be anything from interior designed by Milanese way past temples and altars, the most us if we’d heard the commotion. architects (and owners) Marco Seafood is available, but in a town that live music to poetry readings, as long as impressive of which is the towering ode As we leave, the sun worshippers Giunta and Viviana Haddad. boasts more butchers than fishmongers, the performers are local. Other youthful to Olympian Zeus. Crossing into the beside us giggle and yell out, “Where are we happily order hearty stews of wild hangouts include Pub Vecchio. Ironically eastern zone and walking up a slight hill, you going? You can’t miss the sunset.” This boar, rabbit and lamb bolstered by lentils, it means ‘old pub’, but it’s here that we we’re confronted with even more dazzling is another experience we’ll have to keep in handmade pasta, beans and carrots. spend our last night surrounded by mind for our next visit. For now, we leave Our final stop is perhaps the jewel in students, listening to jazz and reminiscing the coast behind for a taste of the Baroque. In Syracuse, a stay in the Old Sicily’s crown. Located on the south-east on what a magical week it’s been. City, Ortygia, is a must. The The hairpin bends steal us away from coast, we find the city of Syracuse following As we are heading to airport, GRAND HOTEL ORTIGIA the sea, and as we climb, the hills bare all. a drive through groves of almond, olive I get a belated email from my school (grandhotelortigia.it) sits within Trees struggle to grow and the colours and lemon trees heavy with fruit. We friend Christina with recommendations of its opulent surrounds and out the window change from deep blue to is within walking distance of pass Greek ruins and head to Ortygia — where to visit. She’s since moved back to earthy terracotta and grey. The medieval the major attractions. an island that also serves as the city’s Australia, but said the stunning seaside town of Modica is where we begin. In ancient centre and our new home for what towns of Cefalù and Taormina are both modern terms we’re not that far from the remains of our holiday. must-sees and a trip to water, but the hilly surrounds would’ve After taking up residence at the Grand shouldn’t be missed. All worthy places that made it relatively inaccessible before the Hotel Ortigia, a stunning five-star hotel I’ll have to add to my growing list for when > Grand advent of motorised transport, giving the Hotel with views of the marina, we head out to I return. Sicily and I are now, after all, the Clear waters of Cefalù town a very different vibe. Although the Ortigia explore. It’s nearly sunset as we approach firmest of friends.

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