( à la volée) CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLING WINE Clearly the best

oes the release of Grand Siècle The 1988/85/82 is even greater, Les Réserves signal a welcome however, showing purity, elegance, Dchange of policy for Grand and great finesse, highlighted with Siècle La Cuvée? One of the paradoxes sweet notes of French toast and of Laurent-Perrier’s deluxe cuvée is a lingering finish: sublime! There that, although it matures exceptionally were niggling imperfections in the gracefully, the very information that 1985/82/81, 1982/79/78, 1979/78/76, would encourage collectors to cellar this and 1975/73/70, which might or might wine and compare its different releases not be present in other bottles. All the has always been withheld. Grand Siècle wines tasted up to here were from is an assemblage of three Vintage years, magnums. The 1970/69/66 in a 75cl but the identity of those years has never bottle lacked the elegance and finesse been revealed on the bottle—until the of the best aged magnums, but the release of Grand Siècle Les Réserves. 1955/53/52, the very first Grand Siècle, Launched in 2012 to commemorate was, and still is, one of the greatest Laurent-Perrier’s 200th anniversary, Les Champagnes ever made, thanks in no Réserves is a recently disgorged, Tom Stevenson small part to a breathtaking pH of 2.90. rerelease of an earlier Grand Siècle I have plenty of Grand Siècle in my cuvée consisting of wines from 1995, cellar, but when I am inspired to open 1993, and 1990. I first tasted this particular Prior to tasting Grand Siècle Les a couple of interesting bottles during a Grand Siècle in November 1997, when it Réserves, I saw the recently renovated meal, I hardly ever give them a second had barely 18 months on yeast, yet it was cellars where the reserve wines for glance. This is such a pity, but without immediately impressive. Almost 15 years Grand Siècle age at 55˚F (13˚C) in 14 any means of identifying individual later, it was even more impressive, with boutique-sized, state-of-the-art, 110hl, bottles, it would be impossible to engage exquisitely fresh, floral aromas, enriched stainless-steel vats. Each tank holds a my guests in a meaningful debate, a with a thread of juicy-ripe peaches and varietal base wine from a different point plainly demonstrated by Laurent- pears, interwoven with hints of citrus, village: Pinot Noir from , Perrier’s own tasting. If we had not cream, honey, toast, and acacia. It is long, , Louvois, Mailly, Tour-sur-, been told the various chronological linear, and pure, the archetypal Grand , or ; Chardonnay from compositions, how could we have Siècle, with a slow-building, long-lasting , , , Le Mesnil- discussed the wines? The reason always intensity of flavor buffered by the silkiest sur-Oger, Oger, Oiry, or Tour-sur-Marne. given for not revealing the trio of mousse. Grand Siècle Les Réserves is a With this new facility, Laurent- vintages was the fear that customers totally awesome expression of class and Perrier can age Grand Siècle’s reserve might start asking for one trio rather finesse—a Champagne that seems to wines on a cru-by-cru basis for the first than another, but the logical extension dance around the palate. Mesmerizing. time. This will enable Michel of that would be to stop selling Vintage The very first Grand Siècle was a Fauconnet, the current chef de cave, to Champagne for fear that customers blend of 1955, 1953, and 1952 that was scrutinize the evolution of each village, might keep asking for the same vintage! launched in 1960, the 300th anniversary giving him maximum flexibility at the The late, great Bernard de of the marriage of Louis XIV, the Sun assemblage. This obviously provides Nonancourt created Grand Siècle, so it King, and Marie-Thérèse, his cousin, him with a tremendous advantage over is easy to understand why he was the daughter of Philip IV of Spain. The his predecessors, though they did not reluctant to change it. But he was an solar emblem on the foil represents do so badly from the lineup of selected incredibly complex mix of tradition the Sun King, whose reign was known older cuvées of Grand Siècle tasted and innovation, and had he been born as Le Grand Siècle because of the before the main event. The 1997/96/95 into Alexandra’s generation, I suspect unprecedented prosperity he brought needed a few more years before it will he would embrace the transparency of to . Grand Siècle was just one of be ready for a late-disgorgement style, the times and realize the potential and several possible names on a list that was whereas the 1996/95/93 would be plain common sense of revealing the drawn up by Bernard de Nonancourt, fabulous disgorged now, yet even component years of Grand Siècle to his the owner of Laurent-Perrier, in 1957. better if rereleased in another 20 or 30 loyal customers. If the spirit of “Grand Unsure what to call his special new years. In 1997, I described the Bernard” lives on at Laurent-Perrier, Champagne, he sent the list to Charles 1990/88/85 as one of the very finest which I am sure it does, it is possible de Gaulle, who replied simply “Grand Grand Siècles ever, and it is indeed a that this grande maison might change Siècle, of course, Nonancourt,” and the profound wine today, thanks to its its mind, because with Les Réserves decision was made. super-concentrated 1985 Pinot Noir. it has already taken the first step. · Jon Wyand by Photography

44 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE ISSUE 39 2013