PVH’S BRUCE KLATSKY TO RETIRE/2 PARIS, BON/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • March 7, 2005 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Getting Hitched PARIS — Remember Tippi Hedren’s icy elegance in “The Birds”? Alexander McQueen certainly does, because he channeled Hedren, along with Janet Leigh, in a remarkable fall collection that paid homage to the film heroines of Alfred Hitchcock, but focused on great-looking, real clothes. Many of them showcased his stellar tailoring skills. Here, one of his stylish women, in a beautifully cut , slim , Fair Isle and . For more on the season, see pages 4 to 12.

Chargebacks Crisis: Saks Inc. to Repay $21.5M to Vendors By WWD Staff NEW YORK — Saks Inc. apparently squeezed certain vendors for several years, but now it’s payback time. Saks has revealed an internal investigation involving “improper collections of vendor markdown allowances” and said it would pay back, or otherwise compensate, unnamed resources in an amount to total $21.5 million. In addition, it will restate earnings from fiscal 1999 to the third quarter of fiscal 2004 as a result of the repayments and accounting errors on leased departments. See Saks, Page32 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 WWD.COM Klatsky Departs PVH, Weber Steps Up WWDMONDAY tion costs related to the CKI deal Calvin Klein was acquired, Weber By Vicki M. Young and Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Marc Karimzadeh and other items, PVH’s income continued focusing on developing increased 65.8 percent to $50.5 the company and its operations. NEW YORK — Bruce Klatsky is million. Sales for the year rose “[Klatsky] was the architect for GENERAL stepping down as chief execu- 12.6 percent to $1.58 billion. the acquisition,” Tom Murry, Saks Inc. said it is investigating “improper collections” of vendor markdowns tive officer of Phillips-Van Klatsky said health wasn’t an CKI’s president and chief operat- 1 and will restate earnings from fiscal 1999 to the third quarter of 2004. Heusen Corp., leaving the com- issue in his decision. ing officer, said. “That was Bruce Klatsky will step down June 14 as ceo of Phillips-Van Heusen and be pany in the hands of his long- “I am healthy, I worked out tremendously creative and would 2 succeeded by Mark Weber, currently president and chief operating officer. time number two, Mark Weber. last night, bench-pressed 185 never have happened without his After leaving Donna Karan International in 2002 for A&F, Carole Kerner is Weber, PVH’s president and pounds,” he said, laughing. “No, I tenacity, that he was capable of returning to become president of the Donna Karan New York collection. chief operating officer, will take have been with PVH for 34 years making it happen. That said, I 2 over as ceo on June 14, the day of and I have always said that my think that was his primary contri- : Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint the firm’s annual meeting. Klatsky desire was to be able to exit while bution. Most of the integration 4 Laurent were among the highlights as the Paris collections wound down. will stay as chairman for one year. I was still young enough to give work between Calvin Klein and EYE: Talking with Alysson Paradis, who stars in the upcoming French film Emanuel Chirico, 47, executive something back to the world and PVH really was headed by Mark 36 “When Angels Get Involved”…Here’s looking at Lauren Bacall. vice president and chief financial not be concerned economically.” Weber. We started working closely officer, will become president and Classified Advertisements ...... 33-35 chief operating officer. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is “I’ve been apprenticing for 33 [email protected], using the individual’s name. years,” joked Weber, who has WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 worked alongside Klatsky for all FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. that time. He became president VOLUME 189, NO. 47. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional in 1998. “Bruce is a very multi-di- issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL mensional guy. He’s very interest- OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., ed in the world at large, in doing Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, the right things for the world. Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- Bruce at this point in life decided President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration to pursue other interests. We No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. planned to walk into the sunset POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR together. It turned out that we SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is had different time zones.” required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Weber, 55, joined PVH six subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production months after Klatsky, 56, and they correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild worked their way up the compa- Bruce Klatsky Mark Weber magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully ny’s career ladder in tandem. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. “The succession plan has been He plans to focus much of his at- on the operations of the business WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED obvious for several years,” said tention on Human Rights , about a year prior to the acquisi- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Klatsky, who began his career as a an independent, nongovernmen- tion with Mark. I think Mark gets TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED trainee in the merchandising de- tal organization he has been in- most of the credit for a remark- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE partment 34 years ago and be- volved with for a decade. ably, historically smooth integra- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. came ceo in 1993. “The catalyst “Our businesses are at a fairly tion of Calvin Klein into PVH.” was really that we are roughly two remarkable period,” Klatsky said. There is also an expectation MONDAY: Accessories and Innerwear market week, years ahead of our business plan. “We don’t have one weak sister in that it will be business as usual New York (through Friday). The Calvin Klein integration has our company. Our shirt busi- even under a new ceo. Dick’s Sporting Goods reports fourth-quarter and been far better than we have ever ness is concluding its second “Mark has allowed me to run year-end sales and earnings. anticipated. The company is in in- record year in a row. Our sports- CK fairly autonomously,” Murry credible shape so it’s a perfect wear is concluding its second year said. “He has been a good partner TUESDAY: Texworld, Paris (through Friday). time for me to pass on the torch.” of record profitability and our as well as a good boss, he is a good Revlon Inc. reports fourth-quarter and year-end Klatsky was instrumental in Calvin Klein business is two years listener, he has a very keen in- sales and earnings. the Calvin Klein Inc. deal. PVH ac- ahead of business plan, and I have stinct about how to prioritize his quired the brand in 2003 with the two very very capable colleagues. time and where his involvement is WEDNESDAY: The Federal Reserve Board issues the help of Apax Partners, which owns “Our cash flow is such that needed. I think the changes at CK Beige Book report. 38 percent of PVH. Klatsky had we are going to be looking ag- will be very minimal if at all.” Expofil, Mod’Amont, Paris Indigo Mode, pursued CKI for two years before gressively for more acquisitions David Landau of Apax Première Vision, Paris (through Saturday). signing a deal worth $700 million. and that would require a major Partners and the lead director at China International , Jewelry & Gem Fair, He also spearheaded the strategy commitment from me for a num- PVH said, “There’s no intention Shenzhen, China (through Saturday). for CKI that included launching ber of years with the company,” for any sort of change to the com- The Talbots Inc. reports fourth-quarter and year- new women’s and men’s better- Klatsky said. pany’s strategy or direction. The end sales and earnings. priced sportswear lines. Klatsky Weber said Klatsky had talked company has been performing considered these businesses as a about his departure from PVH for a extremely well. The prospect for THURSDAY: International Vision Expo, New York $1 billion opportunity. “long time,” but stayed as part of the company’s future is extreme- (through Sunday). For the year ended Feb. 1, his commitment to follow through ly bright....I fully expect that the Aeropostale Inc., Ann Taylor Stores, Bon-Ton Stores, 2004, PVH posted a loss avail- with the firm’s acquisition of Calvin company will continue on its Finlay Enterprises, Kellwood Co. and Urban Outfitters able to common shareholders of Klein Inc. While Klatsky took on present course with a very report fourth-quarter and year-end sales and earnings. $5.3 million. Exclusive of transi- the more high-profile role when smooth transition.” Quiksilver Inc. reports first-quarter sales and earnings.

FRIDAY: The Commerce Department releases the COMING THISJanuary WEEK import trade report.

Kerner Returns to Donna Karan SUNDAY: Fashion Avenue Market Expo, New York (through March 15). NEW YORK — Call her the Fitch, where Kerner was president of comeback kid. she was in DKNY Womens from 1998 until After leaving Donna Karan charge of the 2000, then assumed the addi- International in 2002 for new Ruehl re- tional role of president of Abercrombie & Fitch, Carole tail brand, Donna Karan Womens collec- In Brief Kerner is returning to become which was tion until 2002. Considered a president of the Donna Karan launched last strong, creative merchant, New York collection, responsi- September Kerner is returning to DKI ● KENZER’S NEW PRESIDENT: Kenzer Corp., a New York-based bilities she held between 2000 with stores in with a range of experience, executive search firm with retail and wholesale distribution and 2002. She will join the com- Chicago; having worked for Calvin Klein practices, has tapped 28-year company veteran Elaine C. pany on March 23 and will be in Carole Kerner Tampa, Fla., Sport, J. Crew and Warnaco. Erickson to be president and chief operating officer. The posts charge of Karan’s designer and Paramus, She will report to Jeffry had been unoccupied for three years. Bob Kenzer, chairman and sportswear and accessories. N.J. Ruehl offers casual sports- Aronsson, chief executive offi- chief executive officer, said a 33 percent increase in business The LVMH Moët Hennessy wear that is a bit more expen- cer of DKI. since the company’s emergence from bankruptcy last November Louis Vuitton brand has been sive than A&F and targets a Part of Kerner’s role will be made the timing right to fill the jobs. Kenzer was the company’s searching for a division presi- more mature customer than the to aggressively build its retail last president and Eric Segal, who left Kenzer three years ago, dent since the departure of A&F and Hollister brands. presence of , , was its last chief operating officer. Erickson, 56, was Kenzer’s ex- Melissa Parker-Lilly last May. Kerner was traveling and could belts, and jewelry, using ecutive vice president. She will retain certain duties, such as Kerner had been senior vice not be reached for comment. An resources made available spearheading marketing and customer service, and take respon- president and general merchan- A&F spokeswoman did not return through its parent, LVMH. sibility for the broader business development. dise manager at Abercrombie & a call seeking comment. — M.K. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 3 WWD.COM Paris Message: It’s All About Shape By WWD Staff tional impact from the clothes that we do, if their value is perceived. Then the cus- PARIS — It didn’t quite sizzle, but Paris tomer understands the high price.” delivered salable collections of romantic Mariko Suzuki, luxury goods buyer at and subtly elegant clothes, retailers said Takashimaya in Tokyo, said higher prices Sunday as the international marathon of means buying few “exclusive pieces for designer shows drew to a close. higher-end customers.” Among her fa- Though more “sedate” than in recent vorite items were Chloé’s “distinctive seasons, Julie Gilhart, vice president and ” in shades of pink and Dior’s vin- fashion director at Barneys New York, tage flower T-, that she thinks will said the city lived up to its reputation as appeal to Japanese customers. the most exciting fashion capital. Gilhart lamented that some designers “We were given choices, not just a sin- “played it too safe. Everything is expen- gular note,” she said. “What stood out sive to our dollars, so everything has to be were the well-designed collections that excellent or it doesn’t make sense to buy.” pushed the norm — Balenciaga, Rochas Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner of Jeffrey and Lanvin.” stores in New York and Atlanta, agreed. Gilhart also called Comme des “When people shop for something that Garçons and Junya Watanabe “superb.” costs $5,000 instead of $1,000 they’re going Chloé, Chanel, Viktor & Rolf and to try it on 20 times, so as a buyer you Dries Van Noten also topped many best- have to be all the more choosey,” he said. of lists, with , cocktail dresses, skin- Kalinsky said he would spend more in ny pants, stack-heeled , velvet and Paris, noting that seeing Karen Elson in evening dresses with trains considered Lanvin’s blue velvet with tulle among the leading trends and items. shirt was “worth the plane ticket over.” However, with a strong euro boosting “The challenge for retailers now is that price tags this season, many retailers search for little-known, niche collections, said selections would be careful. that are of higher quality and a lower Robert Burke, vice president and sen- price range,” said Evelyn Gorman, owner ior fashion director at Bergdorf of Mix in Houston, citing as examples Goodman, called Paris “exceptional,” es- Sonia Speciale and Masons, an Italian pecially coming on the heels of a lacklus- sportswear brand. “That idea that any- ter and often somber Milan. He said thing goes — mixing high and low brands Paris that were “restrained, — is even more apparent than before.” original and feminine” encapsulate Many retailers cited shape as the Bergdorf ’s fashion direction for fall. main Paris message. Still, buyers accustomed to fireworks “The difference in Paris is the silhou- on the runways here noted a shift away ettes,” said Anna Garner, head of fashion from theatrics. at Selfridges. “There’s a division be- “Paris continues to be commercial tween volume and linear. There were and has moved away from art for art’s skinny pants at Balenciaga. There were a sake,” said Sue Patneaude, executive lot of pencil with Sixties shirts vice president of designer apparel at seen at McQueen. Cropped pants are Nordstrom. “The season is refined and very important, too.” glamorous with lace, embroideries and Several buyers singled out the lean sequins used in subtle, couture-like silhouette as the most forward-looking ways. It’s very pretty.” message. Patneaude cited “no predominant “What looked newest here is long and theme” for the season save for bell- lean, as we saw at Balenciaga,” said shaped skirts at Stella McCartney, pep- Michael Fink, senior fashion director at lum and smocked at Chloé and Saks Fifth Avenue. “That silhouette has so-called “item” coats from Alexander popped up throughout the week.” McQueen, Celine and John Galliano. Linda Dresner, who operates epony- “We also loved Balenciaga’s and mous stores in New York and coats with toggle hardware closures,” she Birmingham, Mich., concurred. “It really added. “Chanel and Gaultier presented seems very right,” she said of Nicolas stellar collections.” Ghesquiére’s lean outerwear and long Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president slim coats at Yohji Yamamoto. of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s, “Generally, it’s all about coats and cock- summed up Paris with the slogan: Trash tail dresses,” Dresner continued, praising is out. Class is in. “What we saw in Paris gentle dresses at Chloé, Comme des were clothes to savor, not just clothes Garçons and Lanvin. “There’s a lot to buy.” about a fad,” he said. “It was about inno- Burke said news came in elongated vative and lasting fashion.” silhouettes, military influences, skirts As examples, Ruttenstein cited “sub- with volume, short evening dresses and tle and alluring” collections like Rochas, proportions “done in a subtle way and Viktor & Rolf, Hermès and Lanvin. He with a deft hand.” also lauded an “incredible” Chanel and a Meital Grantz, owner of Talulah G “clever and exciting” Balenciaga. stores in Las Vegas and California, said “What I am liking is a very polished fashion’s focus has shifted from the waist look, a return to a new youthful elegance to the legs and the neckline. that has its roots in vintage, smacks of Fink described the look of the Paris GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY the Fifties, Sixties and even up to the season as “very quietly romantic. They’re Clockwise from left: Buyers praised slim silhouettes at Balenciaga, dresses at Chloé, the Eighties. But it somehow looks right,” beautiful clothes that whisper.” romantic spirit at Viktor & Rolf and the mix at Dries Van Noten. said Joan Kaner, senior vice president Collections by Lanvin, Comme des and fashion director at Neiman Marcus. Garçons, Viktor & Rolf and Chloé exem- Crawford (Hong Kong) Limited, said she some very good items,” he said, citing “I am happy to say there are clothes for plified the direction and Fink also liked the mix of black with Prussian ladylike, Fifties Hitchcock-like heroines women once again.” praised Akris for its “new creative spirit” blue, which helps highlight a new focus as the archetype of the season and folk- Standout collections included Rochas, and the pants and print mixes at Dries on tailoring such as the standout loric details as a second option. Balenciaga, Chanel and Louis Vuitton, Van Noten. Victorian jackets at Chloé. Several buyers highlighted strong ac- Kaner said, citing a “very strong” return “The big news in Paris was shape,” There were a few detractors. cessories collections. to jackets, a “” trend and added Ruttenstein. “Short skirts, from Cedric Charbit, general merchandise Selfridges Garner called it a “huge a plethora of coats “with a line that’s ei- the micromini to the mini, were a major manager for women’s fashion at season,” particularly with stacked ther fitted with a flair shape or easy, with element, and there’s still the cocoon Printemps, the French department store heels, plus square- and rounded-toed a full swing or tented back.” Knitwear shape.” He said other fresh looks includ- chain, called Paris disappointing. “There pumps, and Barneys’ Gilhart highlighted and fur trim are also important elements, ed “long and lean” jackets and jackets wasn’t a clear direction or a major the structured . she added. that “fly away in the back.” trend,” he lamented. “Collections were Grantz from Talulah G said she Echoing a concern of many buyers, Though runways were awash with very commercial and careful, and that would increase her spend on shoes and Kaner said prices are high due to a poor black, Burke said the store “wouldn’t be doesn’t leave me super excited.” handbags rather than ready-to-wear, euro-to-dollar exchange. all about that.” He said important shades Nonetheless, Charbit praised Alex- particularly at Balenciaga. “The bags “It won’t stop us from buying,” she said. include white, camel, teal and purple. ander McQueen, Chanel, Balenciaga, are amazing and the sell-throughs are “The customer will feel the same in emo- Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Kenzo and Dries Van Noten. “There are great.” 4 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 Luxe Layering, Fab Tailoring an As the Paris fall collections drew to a close, three top designers delivered stellar collections by taking different tacks. Karl Lagerfeld boldly layer Chanel, while Alexander McQueen’s collection starred beautifully tailored real clothes and Marc Jacobs’ stylishly sober Louis Vuitton collection was do ▼

Chanel ▼ Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Chanel paris

Chanel: Baby, it’s cold out there. And that’s just the way Not so this time was no mystery to Alexander McQueen’s fall collection: Baby likes it, at least if she shops Chanel. around, as Karl It was stellar. Even when he’s not at the top of his game, While other designers have responded to fashion’s brought his more as happened last fall, it’s clear that McQueen’s talent is recent overload of faux gentility and retro substantial attitude planted as sharp as the cut of his clothes. At his best — the embellishment with a turn toward sobriety, Karl last fall into full flower. Once upon a time cold-weather dance marathon, spring’s chess game, this collection — Lagerfeld took a different tack in the delightful called for cozy layers, right? As everybody knows, he can bring his audience to a state of fashion vertigo, collection he showed on Friday morning. Want angst? there’s nobody like Lagerfeld for making everything old intoxicating and dizzying. Save for a mild wayward-schoolgirl moment in short new again — and making it sell like hotcakes, oops, McQueen loves to do that within the context of a pleated skirts, and brazen boots scrunched make that gateaux. He started with hefty tweeds, now good tale. And every practiced storyteller knows the the entire length of the leg, he showed not a bit. utterly inviting, sometimes going head-to-toe tonal — a value of playing to a receptive audience. Because too Minimalism? Try pilings of tweeds, crochet, bows, pale gray with a full skirt and sleeves cut short over many ice-cold venues elsewhere had turned the fashion chains, crystal camellia-decorated mufflers, Ali silken, extra-long shirt sleeves. At others he piled on the crowd into a mob of scowling cranks (not unjustifiably) and yes, the envy of everyone in Paris this week, patterns — tweed, crochet, stripes, even Nordic riffs for he ordered up — and paid for himself — hundreds of , worn with virtually every look that didn’t get a and leggings. Either way, he worked mostly in Scottish lamb’s wool blankets to chase the chill in his pair of over-the-knee boots. And amazingly, Karl kept it a neutral palette, a flash of pink here or lavender there venue, a school gym. The blankets duly distributed, the all ultra controlled. to avoid the rut of familiarity. He also showed charming yarn commenced with a parade of Tippi Hedrens (and a Last fall he turned away abruptly from the style of knit dresses in black or white with pearl necklines, and “Misfits” Marilyn or two), French twisted or properly gorgeous, dressed-up delicacy he had forged with the remember his megahit tweed-trimmed trench? Here a fluffed, cat’s eye liner belying their prim aura. lemmings in hot pursuit, and embarked on a whole new stunning shearling got the tweed treatment. It was entertaining, absolutely, but not to the point course — sportier, heartier, banishing all traces of chi- Lagerfeld punctuated the collection with a series of of diversion. Rather, McQueen scaled back the chi, including the gently frilled pastels that so little black dresses, pleasant enough, though non- theatrics because the real story here was one of real captivated fashion. He replaced them with thicker, events. Or they would have been, had they not served as clothes. Despite miniscule sales — and all the glorious gutsier tweeds while even pronouncing much of the mere foils for an element of house iconography, the showpieces that make his presentations so memorable line unisex, and if that claim was overstated to the classic black quilted bag, always a surefire winner at — the widely held perception that McQueen does not point of delusion, so be it. The real news, that of a the register. Just like this collection. make wearable, understandable clothes is just plain defrilled direction ahead, proved sage though, at the wrong. Like his Gucci Group colleague, Balenciaga’s time, not entirely resolved. Alexander McQueen: Hitchcock homage aside, there Nicolas Ghesquière, he seemed determined to correct WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 5 WWW.WWD.COM Fashion Scoops ENCORE, ENCORE: Those who saw Uma Thurman in “Pulp Fiction” know the actress can dance. But in her upcoming roll in “The Producers,” the blonde beauty will nd Angst-y Chic also sing. “My song is, ‘If You Got It, Flaunt It,’” she said at Louis Vuitton Sunday. Thurman was doing just that as she vamped it up for the paparazzi. The actress seems to

red hefty tweeds for ▼ Alexander like posing for Vuitton, disclosing that she’s agreed to do a dominated by black. McQueen ▼ second advertising campaign for the house, to be shot in April. Down the row, Selma Blair, having just wrapped up “Pretty Persuasion,” said she was in Paris on vacation with her sister, Elizabeth, and having fun wearing her jewels. Might that inspire her for her next role? “It’s about time I play a daring fashionista,” Blair declared.

Selma Blair

Uma Thurman

SAFETY DANCE: Bodyguards were the “in” accessories as the Paris collections drew to a close following Friday’s incident outside Chanel, when an antifur activist shoved a tofu pie into the face of Anna Wintour. “I think it was organic. It’s good for the skin,” said Wintour, taking the incident in stride, going directly to have her hair and makeup touched up and her raspberry Fendi cleaned off. But she questioned security at the shows, since the attack happened beyond the metal detectors. Asked what actions she would take, Wintour didn’t Louis Vuitton hesitate: “Wear more fur.” Not taking any chances, Karl Lagerfeld had bodyguards trailing him as he took his bows, and Wintour engaged a bodyguard for the balance of Paris Fashion Week. Over the weekend, protesters chanted antifur slogans in French outside of shows, including John Galliano and Louis Vuitton. There are some furry creatures who like Wintour, however. She was one of at least two fashion people visited in their room by a few — namely mice — while staying at the Ritz.

LABOR OF LOVE: One editor was particularly worked up before the Paco Rabanne show on Saturday: Patrick Robinson’s wife and Vogue market director Virginia Smith, who kept fielding queries as to the state of her nerves. After Robinson’s strong debut, relief started to creep in. One friend asked her which was worse — this or labor. Apparently, there’s no contest. “In childbirth, you get an epidural,” Smith quipped. She and other magazine editors, including Teen Vogue’s Gloria Baume, and W’s Alex White and Treena Lombardo, have been dishing out the euros, not for the newest fashion-of-the-moment but for baby gifts. The moms have been hitting the craft store and toy store at the Carrousel du Louvre and Calesta in the Marais.

FASHION SCHOOL: Would a weekend getaway to Paris be complete without a dose of fashion? Not for Stefano Gabbana, who turned out Sunday Alexander morning for the Valentino show despite partying at the VIP Club until McQueen 3 a.m. “This is my second fashion show ever as a spectator. I’m a bit nervous,” he confessed, before that impression this season with a wealth of overtly distinct point of departure. The Vuitton girl could be the Stefano Gabbana settling in for a lesson in glamour, commercial, incredibly chic clothes. Jacobs girl’s older, more sophisticated sister, her Valentino Garavani style. “He’s like my teacher,” Gabbana And did he ever. Tailoring worthy of Janet Leigh — perspective — and wardrobe — influenced by extensive said. “He’s an icon.” but also a fashion editor, money manager or the best- studies and post-graduate travels. History inspires such dressed mom in the car pool — came in perfect coats gloriously angst-y chic! This girl prefers curvy shapes to MOMMY DEAREST: Phoebe Philo was and suits, tweeds or men’s wear grays. Conversely, major volume, though she will amp up with big, romantic surely the proudest new mom in the women who prefer a little fettering might choose curvy sleeves on a suit or even a party dress or vaguely Fifties front row at the Chloé show on flower-strewn knits or Pocahontas fringe. And there coat. And though sober, she hardly likes things plain. Saturday — even if she didn’t have were clothes as well for countless other types from Dresses and skirts came in intricate fabric combinations any pictures of little Maya to show grand dame to ingénue, from party girl to beatnik — and and layers; coats and suits with seams etched in gold. At off. “Everyone’s been asking me, but of course, for every designer’s grail, the red-carpet diva. times, Jacobs borrowed from the Wiener Werkstätte for I don’t have any with me. I’m a It all made for a lineup of sensational fashion, the kind decoration, Klimt-y prints and colors romanced the terrible mother, aren’t I?” she said with the makings of a real commercial success. dominant black, while delicate yet powerful flourishes — with a laugh. As reported, Philo has black veiling over a print, or a cascade of black roses on a been on maternity leave since last Louis Vuitton: One didn’t have to see the artily blackened simple coat — evoked the dark side of a fairy tale. October and let her design team take walls of the greenhouse at André Citroën Parc to know And in typical Vuitton style, Jacobs kept it all oh-so- Milla Jovovich the bow. “I’m so proud of them,” that Marc Jacobs was in moody-broody mode — just look rich, with elaborate collars and even trimmings for the and Phoebe Philo she said. “They’ve given me the at his New York collection, which was, fashionably clothes crafted from semiprecious stones. Ditto the most fabulous gift: 11 weeks with speaking, the talk of the town. But how to translate this handbags. In yet another remarkable expansion of the my baby.” But all good things must come to an end. new direction to Louis Vuitton? house iconography, these came in materials from “I’m back to work on Monday,” Philo said. “Somber feels right, but who’s the customer?” Jacobs matelasse and a plastic-covered warp print to logo- quipped the day before his Paris show. “That person has engraved mink, done up with all kinds of elaboration — WHO’S THE BOSS: Charles-Edouard Barthes, the affable been running around in candy colors and bows. She travels the jewels, passementerie, leather, fur and the managing director at Jean-Louis Scherrer, who helped bring with logoed luggage. She’s not going to give that up for a life aforementioned iguana. “Look at this one,” Jacobs said, energy to the house’s dusty couture, is leaving. His of austerity, so it’s about delivering a darker spirit in iguana.” indicating a dark-toned example. “It’s mohair covered in successor, Philippe Caste, who has worked at Christian Dior, Consider it done, and beautifully so, in a manner organza embroidered in jet and trimmed in mink.” A made his debut at the Scherrer show Sunday morning.

atypically related to the New York collection, yet with a little chic brooding is fine. But it’s no reason to slum it. PHOTOS GIANNONI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI BY 6 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 Sophisticated I

Yves Saint John Galliano Laurent ▼

Lanvin ▼

Yves Saint Laurent ▼ paris Yves Saint Laurent: Talk about pressure. After his whirlwind ascent, thought that counts. the critical trashing of his first collection and its subsequent embrace There’s nothing more practical for stepping out than pants. Or so by the Hollywood set, Stefano Pilati must have felt the weight of the thought the designer, who sent out an endless stream of long lean versions world going into the fall season. He no doubt still glimpses the imposing in corduroy, suede and wool for day and satin for evening. However, this is the shadows cast by Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford, and knows that, in world of Valentino, where “” are cut in lipstick-red suede and topped with a fashion, one’s window for making an impact is limited. Yet unlike at Gucci, Ford’s grip black silk and knitted fur vest. Aside from one vulgar aberration — a bolero of on the Saint Laurent legacy is hardly ironclad and in just one season has loosened beast-like fur sleeves knotted together with see-through lace — , riding coats considerably, leaving Pilati freer to find his way through the founder’s heritage. and sharply tailored, nipped jackets were mostly a success. The collection Pilati showed on Sunday night to close the fall season showed vast But for all the luxed-up tomboyish swagger of the show’s pant-fest, the collection improvement over his dotty debut. Though still working within the same house didn’t leave its ladylike base — who might not have mile-long legs — completely mandate — specifically an emphasis on day clothes — he proceeded confidently, wanting. He proclaimed the a must-have for day and evening. The best with a better grasp of the subtleties of cut and flourish that make clothes realistic. was a prim high-necked affair in black chiffon and lace. Evening brought options — So basta the dots, and welcome to a more subdued, sophisticated lineup. He opened running from the classic red strapless to a plain silk embellished only with with a nod to the season’s sobriety — a black suit with the sleeve of the moment, cut long lace cuffs. And, in the end, practicality is a relative term. If a girl’s schedule is short over filmy sleeves. But this was merely an introduction to a group of newly rife with gala events, a closetful of can be a workaday necessity. spun classics, such as a sleek tweed suit finished with a bow or a gray pullover belted over slim black pants. The looks were waist-conscious and often lean as he Lanvin: A keen sense of expectation hung in the air before Alber Elbaz’s Lanvin confined volume mostly to deep flounces banding slim skirts. show on Sunday, and with good reason. Over the past few seasons, Elbaz’s massively Unfortunately, however, Pilati just couldn’t leave well enough alone — literally. chic collections have drawn in fans and converts at exponential rates and have Then, complications set in as he got bogged down in tricky cuts, countless ball buttons received lavish editorial attention. Indie celebrities, including Sofia Coppola, Chloë and the unfortunate evolution of those sorry spring skirts — no longer Proustian, but Sevigny and Natalie Portman, have all endorsed the brand with their cool. And still too much pouf. Nevertheless, Pilati performed gamely in a tough spot, though Elbaz has quadrupled ready-to-wear and accessories sales since signing on in 2002, whether he is ultimately up to managing the Saint Laurent legacy remains to be seen. despite the constraints he endures at a house house with financial trouble. It’s all added up to buzz — major buzz — and major expectations. Valentino: “I want my clothes to walk the streets,” read Valentino’s show notes. This season, under the pressure to thrill once again, Elbaz took an interesting — Those are interesting words from the man who dresses the world’s most pampered and smart — turn, backing away from some of the artsiness and unfinished hems set. Just how many of Val’s sexy, glamour-loving gals might actually be pounding that he’s become known for in favor of a more polished approach. The look smacked the pavement remains to be seen. But when it comes to fashion, it’s really the of both undeniable chic and sound salabilty, with Elbaz’s once-pleasing WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 7 WWW.WWD.COM

Every designer has his own idea of sophistication, and some of them elected to play with those notions this season. The results were looks which ranged from classic day suits to glamorous pants styles Fashion Scoops to gowns that would suit a femme fatale. ROYAL FLUSH: Sofia Coppola trained with what Jeremy Scott is doing with a television Ideas designer Gilles Dufour years ago when she did crew in Paris, rest assured he hasn’t an internship at Chanel. Now the director is forsworn fashion. “I’m doing a special casting Dufour in her upcoming film about program with [French cable network] Canal ▼

Valentino ▼ Marie Antoinette, which also stars Kirsten Plus,” he explained, after Sonia Rykiel. “I’m Dunst and Marianne Faithfull. “I play a drunk commenting on a couple of shows, this and count,” Dufour said as he made his way into Louis Vuitton, and I’m talking about my time the Louis Vuitton show on Sunday. “I’ve in Paris, and also some of the things I’ve already learned all my lines.” Dufour said his done in LA.” scenes would be filmed this month. GETTING HUNGARY: Before Diane Kruger heads TAKEN FOR GRANT-ED: Anyone trying to shop at to Budapest next month to film “Copying the Azzaro boutique in Paris late Saturday Beethoven,” the afternoon was out of luck. The Faubourg Saint German-born actress Honoré shop was shuttered for Hugh Grant and found time to sit in on Jemima Goldsmith Khan, who tried on a series Karl Lagerfeld’s latest of dresses, including a long white column, collection for Chanel. observers said. An Azzaro spokeswoman But Kruger insisted it’s confirmed the couple’s presence, but declined Lagerfeld’s talent, rather on comment on their purchases or if they than his nationality, that were for any particular occasion. brought her to the show. “It’s not a German ZAC ATTACK: Zac Posen thing,” she said. flew into Paris Saturday, Diane Kruger “Besides, we’ve both just in time for a raucous lived in Paris for so long.” Meanwhile, sitting IMG party at the across the runway was French actress Alysson Westminster Hotel. But Paradis, ’ little sister, who has he was all business, and been nominated for a young talent award at John vowed to steer clear of the upcoming Paris film festival (for more on Galliano the fashion shows on Alysson Paradis, see today’s Eye on page 36). Sunday, even though he was awaited at Valentino. CHEEK TO CHEEK: Giambattista Valli had the “I’m here to make a tightest front row of Paris Fashion Week last Lou Doillon couple of guest Friday — so much so that several front-row appearances at my boutique in Le Bon Marché occupants were evicted from their seats to this week and to attend the Première Vision make way for the likes of Lee Radziwill and trade show,” he said, posing for photos with the Suzy Menkes. Carbs may be out, but likes of Jade Jagger, Milla Jovovich and actress someone should tell Valli’s p.r. that that the Lou Doillon, who partied into the wee hours. world isn’t full of Jacquetta Wheelers.

MATERIAL GIRL: Even a celebrity designer has to IN THE PINK: The Falic roll up her sleeves every once in a while. “I’m in Group, which last Paris for Premiere Vision,” said actress-cum- month bought designer Milla Jovovich, who took in the Christian Lacroix from Valentino and Chloé shows over the weekend. LVMH Moët Hennessy “I’ve never been [to the fabric fair] before. Louis Vuitton, has not They’re supposed to have fabrics, like, six yet finalized its seasons in advance.” PV, as its known in the negotiations to retain trade, starts Tuesday. In the meantime, the designer, nor Jovovich said after playing an action heroine in outlined its strategy for the upcoming “Ultraviolet,” to be released this the French house. But spring, she’s lined up a couple of independent the family members films. “It’s time to get back to my roots,” she are big fans — down explained. But her fashion label is on a roll, too. Danelle Levi to the tots. Danelle She said she plans to open her first boutique Levi, the 18-month-old niece of chairman in New York’s Greenwich Village this fall. Simon Falic, was in head-to-toe Christian Lacroix at the show Friday as she played on THE SATIN VERSES: Padma Lakshmi is the shiny silver catwalk before the show. moonlighting as a journalist. The chic Indian actress and wife of Salman Rushdie signed on with FRANCER TO THEORY: Istvan Francer has joined Harper’s Bazaar to pen a column about fashion, Theory as design director, replacing Jarlath jewelry and accessories, to appear four times a Mellett, who left to pursue other interests. year. Her first installment is due out in April. “I’ve Francer, who started last Tuesday, is a familiar written before, but not about fashion,” Lakshmi face in fashion. He worked at Donna Karan said before the Chanel runway show. International for 13 years before designing for awkwardness glossed up into a sleek affair. Jackets were nipped in at the waist Maska in 2000. In 2002, he took the design whether paired with full skirts or those that slightly belled. Coats, while more SPECTATOR SPORT: reigns at Cerruti and even dabbled in his own relaxed, were still very clean cut. Meanwhile, serious eveningwear — and there was Anna Kournikova, who collection that year. His Cerruti stint lasted lots of it — came in a wide range. The most daring was his simplest, a gorgeous is taking a break from only a year. Francer had recently returned to draped in gym suit-gray jersey done up with a loopy black bow at the bodice. tennis while she nurses DKI on a consulting basis, working on DKNY’s The most va-va-voom were fitted snug and bustling with tiered tulle. a strained back, men’s collection. Andrew Rosen, Theory’s It’s Alber’s moment alright, and he’s trained his whopping talent on making that declared herself “so chairman, said Francer will help his strategy sweet moment last. excited — it’s my first to evolve Theory into a global contemporary fashion show ever” as brand. “He has tremendous integrity and that John Galliano: At some point or other, the allure of Hollywood has fascinated nearly she slipped into her is important,” Rosen said. every working designer in the field. This season, John Galliano did his own over-the- seat at the Y-3 show top send-up of movieland, staging his production in a klieg-light-filled set on the last Thursday night. ART’S SAKE: Construction plans for François outskirts of town. Against a photomontage backdrop of Cecil B. DeMille types doing Dressed in slinky Pinault’s ambitious contemporary art foundation their thing, Galliano served up a relatively low-key collection that, while it didn’t jeans, a tank top and outside of Paris have “been put on hold,” have much to do with the silver screen, was packed with clothes built just for Anna Kournikova leather , the according to the French tycoon’s son, François- Galliano-loving divas. There was a royal blue leather trench with an oversized collar. striking blonde ace chatted through the show Henri Pinault. At the Yves Saint Laurent show There were zingy black-and-white striped sweaters or Dietrich-esque baggy with another surprise guest: Gucci Group Sunday night, Pinault said a community group worn with wide-legged pants. president Robert Polet, who explained he was had “temporarily” stymied the project to Not too surprisingly, Galliano took the opportunity to show some major gowns. He on hand to support Adidas’ collaboration with transform an industrial island in the Seine River didn’t go in for your basic hourglass gown homage, instead sending out a variety of designer Stella McCartney. Polet was among with, among other buildings, Pinault’s museum. options to suit every character from ingénue to slightly eccentric sexpot. For the long- the first backstage, where he chatted with the But the show must go on, and so Pinault settled lashed innocent was his drop-waisted dress in peach gauze scattered with a flock of German sports firm’s creative director, Michael into a front row packed with glitterati, including colorful butterflies. For the femme fatale, a coat in gold velvet, with a grand dimpled Michalsky. For her part, Kournikova also France’s First Lady Bernadette Chirac and collar and bordered with thick fur trim or a fuchsia gown splashed with graphic flowers. rushed backstage, where she declared the actresses Kristin Scott Thomas, Marion Cotillard None of it, however, could live up to Galliano’s own -ding of a runway bow, which show “great. It was short but energetic.” and Virginie Ledoyen, who just wrapped “Holly,” was accompanied not only by the usual swelling music and flashing lights, but by a movie about a woman who tries to help a child fireworks, leaping flames, bursts of steam and a gusting fake wind that sent his cowboy GREAT SCOTT: For those who’ve wondered prostitute in Vietnam.

tumbling back from whence he came. A performance worthy of Cecil B. himself. PHOTOS GIANNONI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 Fantasy and Reality ▼

Comme des Garçons ▼ paris

Christian

Lacroix ▼

Christian Lacroix

Comme des Garçons: And now, for the bride-to-be who’s not afraid of bewildering the a dress, however lovely, did not burst into 3-D romantic reverie; it remained a dress, un- in-laws when she takes to the aisle, comes Rei Kawakubo’s beautifully quirky fleet of derstandable to all. And rather than turn foil for collaged exotica, a jacket remained just fantasy bridal fare. Making up for every season when she ignored fashion’s traditional that, chic and sensible. Lacroix even kept his colors in check, as eager to show a curvy bride finale, Kawakubo sent out scores of achingly pretty dresses in champagne, ivory, black suit or jaunty pinstripes cut off into cuffed bermuda as he was a studded, cream and pale rose, all frosted with yards of ribbon, bushels of bunting, bitsy bows, an- embroidered willow green coat over a printed Empire dress with a jeweled waistband. tique-y swagged lace and what-have-you. Yet, take away the towering tinsel-and-roses Evening, too, stayed relatively simple with short, flirtatious dresses and alluring columns , lose those gorgeous and wipe down the models’ bejeweled white-face, trimmed with velvet ribbons. It all looked ripe for a vibrant retail run, and if along the and the collection was a joyful celebration of femininity, one full of clothes — including way Lacroix sacrificed a bit of wonder, he retained the essential beauty of the clothes. dresses as well as cropped jackets, full pants, and circle skirts — that could be worn not This reining-in indicated not a core philosophical shift, but a moment of self-evalu- only on that special day, but any day. ation brought on by external circumstances and the designer’s desire to stay current — Banded with bunting and asymmetric frills, and constructed from spliced panels and engaged in his work. Recent rumors have the Falic brothers close to hiring a chief — some in delicate tiered ruffles, some printed with photos of tiered ruffles — executive for their newly acquired Lacroix business; if true, the designer’s input has Kawakubo’s dream dresses were appealingly complex. After all, with Rei at the not been solicited. At the same time he remains contract-less and with numerous out- drawing board, romance is never simple. Exploring the boundaries of union and illu- side projects in the works, Lacroix’s ongoing association with the house bearing his sion, she merged dresses with elegant coats to create a hybrid all-in-one silhouette. name is anything but a sure thing. Next up: the lawyers’ volleys. Stay tuned. And, countering all that sweetness and light, she showed dresses trimmed with sharp black as well as a handful of stunning all-black gowns. In the spirit of the occasion, Hermès: Now in his third season at Hermès, Jean Paul Gaultier is starting to cement his these were clothes to have and to hold. approach to designing for the house. The aesthetic gap between Gaultier’s eponymous collection and his work for Hermès remains gulf-wide. And that’s just fine. Still, by Christian Lacroix: Christian Lacroix wears adversity well. With the sale of his house imparting a citified chic to his patrician countryside garb, the designer let his looming in January, he showed a breathtaking couture collection. And on Friday, characteristic wit and love of French style shine through the of library-quiet luxury. Lacroix concluded his 18-year run under the LVMH with a a collection that Speaking of the L-word, even frozen showgoers in Paris must admit that cold had a major message: “Yoo-hoo, out there,” it called out. “I’m commercial.” weather is the best season for it. And nearly every look here was equipped for the Given its transitional timing, it’s hardly surprising that Lacroix produced this collec- great outdoors in enough buttery leather, plush cashmere, cozy shearling and velvety tion within a lean budget. Whether out of financial necessity or to prove his critics suede to make your heart skip a beat. Relaxed -like coats, sometimes layered wrong, it made for his most restrained showing ever, as he even dumped his typical elab- nattily with fringed mufflers, were tossed over suede and velvet skirts, turtleneck orate hairstyling in favor of long, , side-parted manes. This newly spare beauty ap- sweaters, softly tailored jackets and in men’s wear fabrics. Long granny proach matched the clothes that he all but stripped of fantastical embellishments. Here, cardigans covered up even longer pleated silk dresses, while tall boots, leather gloves WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 9 WWD.COM

Chloé

Real clothes and flights of fancy — there’s plenty of room in fashion for both. This season, appealing looks ranged from avant-garde y bridal dresses to girly little frocks to luxurious shearling jackets.

Hermès

Christian Lacroix Hermès ▼ Chloé

and all manner of sealed the deal. Gaultier turned up the volume on the company’s logo, smartly wearable in a burgundy-and-navy printed silk shirt and Tao Comme des Garçons: Once upon a time Rei surprisingly even a black leather tunic with a torso-sized H. All in all, it’s a collection The Tao of Design Kawakubo gave her talented protégé Junya Watanabe a that should make the Hermès customer reach into her Kelly bag for her credit card, shot at designing his own collection, and now consequently bringing smiles to those who sign the designer’s check. Watanabe is doing his own talented assistant a good turn, too. In the house’s showroom on Sunday, Tao Chloé: A good support system — what every new mom needs. So let’s hope that Kurihara, who has worked in Watanabe’s studio in Phoebe Philo has found a nanny as supportive as her design team. After the birth of Tokyo for seven years and graduated from Saint her daughter Maya in December, Philo worked through the overall tone of Chloé’s Martin’s a few classes behind “Stella and Phoebe,” fall collection with her assistants and then left it to them to get it to the runway. In quietly debuted her own delightful line called Tao the show on Saturday, they delivered beautifully. Comme des Garçons, which will be sold in Comme des The team — The team — Sara Jowett, Natasha Lee, Valeska Duetsch, Adrian Garçons boutiques worldwide. Appiolaza and Yvan Mispelaere — maintained the delicate balance of gentleness and Starting with a simple notion — mixing and edge Philo brought to the house to delightful and influential effect. Here it came knits — Kurihara whipped up an elaborately girly wrapped in a nouveau Victorian attitude, its inherent girliness tempered by elements collection. There were boned cable knit corsets with borrowed from the boys. Takes on her now-signature dresses, all gentility and flou, frothy lace frills, cozy knit blooming with retained their essential casual cool despite often-complicated pastiches of layers, crocheted rosettes and knitted tap pants bedecked with insets, pleats and frills. At times, spiffy weskits or military-mien jackets tempered the bows and pom-poms. A strapless petal-pink sweater with flou, while a lovely beaded filmy dress cozied up under a chunky black . covered buttons boasted stacked ruffles around the Conversely, gentle softened the bad-boy vibe of trousers cut off at the knee. bosom, while a pale blue knit corset bloomed with a Most of the clothes were smartly detailed — lace trimmed up in velvet; a navy coat bonanza of bows. inset with satin panels — with not a clunker in sight. What the collection lacked was a Each season, shifting her focus from lingerie to, say, clear sense of forward propulsion. But given Philo’s absence, who could argue with a dresses or denim, Kurihara, will explore a single concept one-season status quo, especially so engagingly delivered? in depth. This time out, though she is just as press-shy At the end of the show, Philo’s designers came out for a communal bow, and then as her mentor, the 31-year-old designer blushingly walked to where she sat in the audience. She joined them as they retreated backstage, admitted that the collection expressed, “romantic now officially back at work. Philo must be plenty proud, of her staff for performing, feelings.” It was the beginning of a fine romance.

and herself, for having developed so clear an identity for Chloé in so short a time. PHOTOS GIANNONI GIOVANNI BY 10 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005

Junya Watanabe Pretty a Big-collared, wool tweed jackets, dolman-sleeved sweaters, la ▼

Nina Ricci ▼

Junya Watanabe paris

Paco Rabanne

Junya Watanabe: While Junya Watanabe didn’t turn on the fake-rain spigots, as in The real heart of this collection was quietly luxurious daywear. that fabled show of yore, on Saturday morning he showered his audience with Kriemler worked in the sort of rich, woodsy fall colors that make you nostalgic for fabulous clothes, cleverly remixing a few of his favorite themes: sportiness, ladylike that time of year. He favored a slouchy form of chic with a sumptuous cashmere tweeds — and high-tech waterproofing. Though you could hardly have guessed it, trench, dolman-sleeved knits and man-tailored trousers. Alternatively, he paired nearly every piece in the collection was rain-repellent, from the first tartan slim knits and neatly tailored jackets with swingy skirts — though it must be said that schoolgirl dress to the last of his extravagantly beplumed anoraks, with Gortex such full skirts are flattering to few, especially the more sedate Akris client. But on delivering the added value all along the way. the whole, these are clothes that are perfectly suited for the well-heeled shopper But weather-related gimmicks aside, Watanabe’s charming new look also made who doesn’t go for gimmicks or trends. avant-garde hearts go pitter-pat. Heavy woolen tweeds, checks and plaids were Eveningwear, however, is a work in progress. After spending the day in such easy- worked up into jackets with grand rippling collars, while sportif drawstrings gathered to-wear clothes, it’s difficult to imagine that someone would want to shimmy into a sleeves and pulled, bunched and flounced skirts just so. A sharp tug of those toggled body-hugging suede and silk dress or one of his diaphanous gowns that tread too cords turned a voluminous black trenchcoat into a cool cocoon of a dress, while a close to the lingerie department. double-breasted white shirt scrunched down the front with newfound ruffles. As things rolled on, a hint of Victoriana infused Watanabe’s look with a certain moodiness, Paco Rabanne: It’s not often than a designer pitches himself with a biblical though it never let things devolve beyond the neat and gentle. But even when in a more invocation. But in winning the design post at Paco Rabanne, a house known for being subdued somber mood, he couldn’t resist a final decadent twist, sending out an anorak out there in more ways than one, Robinson told Mark Puig and Mario Grauso that it with its traced in iridescent feathers. Now that’s the ultimate in frivolous utility. was time to break the chains that bind. A veteran of attempted reinvention after his contentious split with Perry Ellis in Akris: With two good seasons at his back, Albert Kriemler shows little sign of losing New York, Robinson insisted that the time warp of a company had to beam its way momentum. As he did for his spring show, the designer cited artistic inspirations for beyond Space-Age chain mail. “What’s the essence of this house, the soul?” he said fall. This time, it was Viennese artists Dagobert Peche and Gustav Klimt. But several days before his show. “There’s more here than metal and plastic discs. Kriemler uses a light hand with his references, which manifested themselves subtly There’s the glamour part, the sexy part. So let’s make it sleek, sexy, modern and in the printed silk lining of a wool coat and in patches of beading on coats and knits. provocative. That’s how it started.” WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 11 WWD.COM and Sportif Akris ace-detailed dresses and ruffled cocktail frocks were among the winning looks for fall.

Giambattista Giambattista Valli Valli

Akris

Paco Rabanne PHOTOS GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI BY

The Puig brass liked what they heard, and on Saturday, Robinson presented a peeking over necklines, tacked on as trim or layered over satin. smart, controlled collection that ignored Mod-Sixties structure in favor of provocative Tailored looks, however, were a hit-or-miss situation. Nilsson’s hits leaned toward curves. These came in hourglass dresses made of horizontal fabric strips for a siren’s the uncomplicated: a long black wool coat or a flippy taffeta skirt with contrast way with ruffles, and in beautiful blouses with skirts that often combined fabrics, stitching. Attempts at the dramatic garnered mixed results. Poet-bloused sleeves stripes of velvet and stretch lace, for example. When he went for volume, it was with were cute on a cropped caramel ermine jacket done up with velvet ribbon ties and low-belted coats and a jacket. Yet Robinson also heeded the heritage. He awkward on a heavy tweed coat. And a perfectly well cut skirt suit was miscast in opened with a glam silvery swirl of a dress, favored metallic shoes and channeled the burgundy lamé. On the whole, though, it was an improved and more refined effort. expertise of the house’s remarkable metal atelier staff toward high-impact accessories, including a dramatic aged crystal bib worn with a purple dress. Giambattista Valli: Of course, the question on everyone’s minds as they crushed By Paris standards, this was a low-key presentation with an undercurrent of what themselves into overbooked rows at the Giambattista Valli show was, “How Ungaro one might call Yankee practicality. But that was by design. “I don’t want to make will it be?” It was truth-telling time for Valli, whose contract was not renewed in clothes for editors to get excited about,” Robinson said. “I want to make clothes for October after several less-than-stellar seasons at Ungaro. Without missing a beat, the editors and other women to want to buy. And you’re not going to do that with metal next day, Valli struck out on his own, announcing the launch of a signature collection dresses for $15,000.” Touché. to be produced by Gilmar. While the flirty French femininity he had developed remained, for the most part, Valli’s debut was surprisingly unfettered, fresher and Nina Ricci: Slow and steady wins the race. Not the most rousing of suggestions, but less costume-y than the collections he’d designed under his former employer’s name. it’s still good advice. At any rate, that seems to be the path of Lars Nilsson at Nina Sweaters and boxy bouclé jackets were scattered with a smattering of sweet velvet Ricci, where his fall collection continued a pretty thread from spring. bows. A collarless camel coat was quietly chic, while girly dresses each tied around Models emerged from a narrow wall of klieg lights — perhaps a reference to the bodice with a pretty velvet bow. These were clothes with personality that looked where Nilsson might want to see his dresses. Well, who doesn’t dream of playing the just right for a range of Valli fans, from Dita Von Teese, who walked in the show, to celebrity game, especially when pretty dresses for pretty girls are among their Lee Radziwill and Diane Kruger, both wedged into the front row. It all made one oeuvre? And Nilsson’s fall collection had quite a few of these. The best were sweet wonder how a designer capable of creating such fine fare could endorse fat little pouf affairs that tapped into the ultrafeminine background chez Ricci — with loads of lace dresses with “balloon” hems. Unfortunately, the helium effect dragged Valli down. 12 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 WWD.COM Bohemian and Artsy Fashion’s in a state of flux, and so are its artsier exponents. From to sculpted tweed coats to tailored military jackets, their best new looks feature cleaner lines and a distinctive chic.

Hussein Y-3 Chalayan

Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Rykiel

Hussein Chalayan Ann Demeulemeester PHOTOS GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI BY

Sonia Rykiel: Ah, Saint Germain. Who channels your doubt work the collection’s wearable pieces, such as a distressed black bohemian chic spirit better than Sonia Rykiel? And the Left paris leather and knit bomber or a twisted chiffon dress, into their wardrobes. Bank designer hit the right tone again in a feisty collection of flirty dresses, cheeky knits and fluffy furs. Rykiel has been on Y-3: “We’re going to rock New York,” enthused Michael Michalsky, creative a roll. Over the past few seasons, she has given the house’s director of Adidas, about the German sports company’s decision to move the time-tested classics an element of contemporary cool. For fall, presentation of its ongoing Y-3 collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto to the Big that meant high-waisted knit skirts paired with little black Apple, starting this fall. One was ready to believe him after the line’s high-energy sweaters trimmed with rhinestones, a slinky sequined dress and runway presentation at the Opera Comique. Soviet Russia was the theme, with a ruffles on everything. Bows, at the neck or the bust of a dress, also abounded, as did choir of men in military dress singing “Babushka” while models paraded flowers, which were knitted onto coats, tops and skirts. Silhouettes were sexy but Yamamoto’s sleek, urban sportswear. Adidas’ signature stripes decorated everything slouchy, with plaid pants hanging low on the hips worn with matching jackets. For from sweaters to leather blousons, and silhouettes were closer to the body than in evening, long, sexy gowns in blue and violet velvet were decorated with recent seasons. The latter, Michalsky said, reflected a desire to develop more tailored rhinestones, giving yet another jolt to Rykiel’s fun frolic. looks for the line. To wit: jersey dresses were fitted, leather trenches were tough, and tight jeans rode low on the hips. But all eyes were on the models’ feet: the futuristic Hussein Chalayan: Though it was presented in the near-dark on a concave mirrored silver and clunky black boots are sure to excite the fashion flock. runway that all but promised a stumble, a crash and a call to 911, clothes-wise Hussein Chalayan’s fall show started with much promise. His look was intense — but thrillingly wearable. Coats sculpted out of tweed buzzed with artsy sophistication. Strictly tailored dresses cut away to reveal a film of Chantilly lace Masculin-Féminin underneath were seriously sexy. Jackets spliced and layered with dizzying precision demonstrated Chalayan’s hard-core, undeniable talent. Loulou de la Falaise: “Romantic tomboy,” What came next, however, was an exercise in willful weirdness. After dutifully is how Loulou de la Falaise characterized giving reality its due, Chalayan flipped the switch and went into heady experimen- her great collection of satin blouses, tal mode with jackets that looked like giant topiaries carved from shag carpeting — tweed jackets, kangaroo coats and high- or, as one editor put it, “clothes you can vacuum.” Why these oddities, which waisted skirts. “There’s more boyish stuff weren’t in keeping with the mood or spirit of the rest, had to come down the run- this time,” said the designer as she way is anyone’s guess. But whatever the reason, Chalayan should have saved them presented the fall collection in her Left for his 10-year anniversary retrospective at the Groninger Museum in the Bank shop. Silhouettes came long and Netherlands instead. fitted. Short pants were paired with tailored jackets and ruffled tops. Ann Demeulemeester: Fashion editors are divas? Not at Ann Demeulemeester’s Masculine inspirations took on a show at the unheated Carreau du Temple. All gamely waited for the start of the feminine allure: an oilskin coat had a show, battling the sub-zero cold and snow seeping through ceiling cracks by sipping frilly lining and a little jacket in English hot mulled wine and wrapping themselves in the rough woolen blankets left on herringbone was embroidered with their chairs. flower appliqués. Ribbons dangled from However, when the show began, it seemed to make more sense. Perhaps the the sleeves of blouses, and de la Falaise audience was meant to feel as forlorn as the models looked in their Mad Max-visits- also twisted the military style by adding a-Victorian-attic ensembles. The steady stream of ivory and black was a layered ribbon closures to a jacket. For evening, mass of wrinkled wool and distressed leather jackets worn with skinny pants there were sinuous black dresses with hacked off midcalf. Shoulder harnesses fashioned out of cloth braiding and jet gold jewelry straps, while the rich beads didn’t improve the situation, especially when they were strung with a fringe brocade jackets added an exotic touch. of ratty fur tails. Nonetheless, Demeulemeester has her steadfast fans who will no F or more information on advertising inthesespecialWWD coatedstocksupplements,contactAlixMichel,associatepublisher,or more onadvertising information ac Katherine Nelson,West Coastaccountexecutive,at323-951-1805,oryourWWD salesrepresentative. ON YOUR SIDE. F ocus on , handbags, jewelry andaccessories. ocus onwatches,handbags,jewelry the leading publication trusted byretailers,the leadingpublicationtrusted buyers A P Bonus Distribution: osition your brand as a must-have accessory in osition yourbrandasamust-haveaccessory Don’t missthisspecialsupplementcovering Coated StockSupplement: ccessories Supplement May Market the hotteststylesandtrends setting TIME IS WWD the paceforthismarket. and allregional marts. WWD “A” and topmanagement. Close: MediaWorldwide ENK Accessorie Circuit, March 21 — F all ‘05 ® April 25 cessories, at212-630-4596, PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, JOHN AQUINO, THOMAS IANNACONE, KYLE ERIKSEN 14 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Q&A: Sara Lee CEO Lee Chaden Spin-off Deemed

WWD last week caught up with Lee Chaden, chief nicole by Nicole Miller are increasingly taking executive officer of Sara Lee Branded Apparel, up [innerwear] market share. How can the Sara A ‘Smart Move’ who gave an overview of the spin-off and discussed Lee apparel brands compete? business strategies for Sara Lee Branded Apparel. By Karyn Monget L.C.: Store brands and national brands can be WWD: Was Sara Lee ahead of the curve? A num- highly complementary. Each has a different mis- NEW YORK — Sara Lee Corp.’s decision to split apart its $4.5 billion ber of industry experts believe it will continue to sion and meets a different need. What a national apparel business and operations in the Americas-Asia territories, be a difficult [apparel] market overall. brand can do is drive consumers into a store. Take and sell its $1.8 billion European apparel business, is viewed by the Tagless T, for example. When we intro- the industry as a smart decision that will create value for share- L.C.: Our business in North duced this product innovation holders and strengthen the company’s cadre of brands. America is healthy and grow- with major public relations and Executives generally agreed that the timing is right, as business ing. Sara Lee Corp. based its advertising support, category conditions have improved and a growing number of investors are decisions and transformation sales jumped nearly 10 percent. looking for opportunities, particularly in an existing company. The plan on its desire to be a more Category experts such as us have momentum is spurred by the mergers and acquisitions activity of focused food, beverage and the ability to bring new, value- retail giants, including the $11 billion proposed takeover of Sears, household products company. added ideas to market that can Roebuck & Co. by Kmart and Federated Department Stores’ $17 Spinning off apparel was a drive that kind of traffic. billion acquisition of May Department Stores. logical result of that strategy, We believe that only national Several industry executives speculated whether Sara Lee intends not a driver. brands that are number one or to sell any of its portfolio of brands, which includes Hanes, Playtex, two in their categories really in- Bali, Champion, Wonderbra, L’eggs, Barely There and Just My Size. WWD: Will it be getting terest retailers. We have the Lee Chaden, chief executive officer of Sara Lee Branded tougher for apparel brands to leading brands in the categories Apparel, said, “Our apparel brands are not for sale. The current exist as more retail mergers in which we compete, household portfolio is incredibly strong and on strategy. We have powerful take place? names that consumers know and brands that are category leaders and will form a strong basis for trust. That makes us the kind of the new company’s future growth.” L.C.: Actually, quite the con- partner that benefits retailers. Regarding Sara Lee’s strategy, Donald Franchescini, a former trary. The customers we are Simply stated, successful retail- vice chairman of Sara Lee Corp., said, “I am very supportive of this growing the fastest with are the ers know their customers and move. It makes sense and it’s a positive for both businesses. It will larger retailers. Larger retail- what drives them. We are ex- give a sharper focus on the food business, and at the same, time ers need to team up with sup- perts in our categories and know find a home for intimate apparel.” pliers that have scale and that how to drive growth in those cat- Sara Lee appears to be on a roll. The $19.6 billion conglomerate can deliver big, value-added egories. Together, that’s a power- spun off Coach in 2000. Investors on board since the beginning ideas to drive consumers to ful combination. tripled their money, the stock split 2-for-1 in July 2002 and Coach’s their doors through product in- initial public offering was for 19.5 percent of the share. Sara Lee novation and strong consumer WWD: Any other thoughts? kept an 80.5 percent stake that it divested through a tender offer in marketing programs. April 2001. In the second quarter ended Jan. 25, Coach reported a Retailers’ scale also bene- Lee Chaden L.C.: The spin-off is an ex- 40.5 percent jump in earnings and authorized a 2-for-1 stock split. fits us, as it allows us to tailor tremely positive step for our The stock has zoomed to more than $58 a share from about $5 in 2000. programs for them we know we can cost-effective- customers, Sara Lee shareholders and our em- “I think this is the best thing that could have happened to Sara ly deliver. C9 by Champion, a joint development ployees. Our business today is very healthy. Lee intimate apparel because I relate to it, ” said Bill Ghitis, pres- with Target Stores, is an excellent example. By de- Hanes, Champion, Bali, Playtex and Just My ident of Invista Inc., formerly the DuPont Textiles & Interiors unit veloping and supporting large-scale programs, we Size have tremendous brand equity and growth of DuPont, which Koch Industries acquired last year. “When you’re help generate customer traffic to our retail part- potential. Given our scale, the strength of our not welcome in a company’s portfolio, you obviously don’t have a ners, with consumers who buy not only our prod- brands and the quality of our people, we are secure and focused direction.” ucts but also other products in the store. It’s a win- fully confident we can accelerate our growth While the plan to divest the Sara Lee apparel businesses is ning combination that drives collaborative, long- curve as an independent enterprise. receiving praise, it also is raising questions about the viability of term strategies for both of us. With approximately $4.5 billion in annual apparel brands, particularly established powerhouse names in a sales, we would become a Fortune 500 company market that’s being squeezed by retail consolidation and propri- WWD: A growing number of retailers like Wal- and one of the world’s largest apparel compa- etary retail brands. Mart with its George brand, Kmart with Joe nies. What a great place to start. Some industry executives believe Sara Lee may be ahead of the Boxer, Macy’s with Jenny and Penney’s with — K.M. curve as a majority of apparel companies are forced to restructure manufacturing capabilities to handle potential fresh China quotas, and at the same time, bankroll new technology. Another variable is how fashion names and commodity-type labels will stack up against It a growing assortment of exclusive store brands sold at lower prices. “The cost today of coming up with new technology to create STRETCHES newness and innovation to keep the customer interested is prohib- itive,’’ said Richard Leeds, chairman of Richard Leeds International, an independent sleepwear firm. “It requires a tremendous amount of money up front and that’s needed to get the margin to pay for it. If the branded apparel business is so terrific, why would Sara Lee be getting rid of it?” Addressing brand integrity, Linda LoRe, president and ceo of Frederick’s of Hollywood, said, “We all have to continue to evolve and create loyalty with the consumer because they buy with emo- tion and they justify it any way they can. People are always looking for something new and the consumer is going to cast her vote regardless of the channel the brand is placed in. At the end of the day, it’s all about the brand and the experience of the customer.”

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LALAME,Inc. 132 W.36th St., 11th Fl. New York,NY 10018 • Tel:212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 Playtex and Wonderbra are two Sara Lee megabrands. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 15 WWD.COM Accessories Report

and executive creative director. Coach’s First-Class Show The campaign was shot in New York by Steven Sebring and pictures Moore wearing a custom-made green feather bustier, a By Emily Holt custom-embroidered Scribble Signature skirt and a matching Scribble Signature pocket satchel from the new spring collec- NEW YORK — Coach will host the Play for Peace concert in tion. Ads will appear in magazines and on outdoor advertising Tokyo on April 9 featuring Mandy Moore, N.E.R.D. and Mika in Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand, South Nakashima. Korea and Taiwan. The campaign will not run in the U.S. About 7,500 people are expected to attend the free concert. Krakoff said he had the idea for the concert when the firm Limited-edition Scribble Signature wristbands will be used to signed Moore for the campaign. gain access and can be picked up free of charge at the Ginza, The combination of artists range from Moore’s pop songs to Shibuya and Marunouchi flagships beginning March 20. Coach N.E.R.D.’s hip-hop and Nakashima’s more traditional music. will donate a minimum of $150,000 from the sale of Scribble “We wanted it to be a mix and represent different attitudes handbags to UNICEF. and moods of the collections we introduce,” Krakoff ex- The event, to be held at the Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium, plained. “[The performers] are each different, but all youthful coincides with the launch of the accessories brand’s spring ad and fun.” campaign, for which Moore is the spokesmodel. In the last year, Coach has made an aggressive retail push “We were looking for someone who exemplifies classic and in Japan. The company opened 11 stores, including locations youthful style, things we try to represent through the brand in in Osaka and Sendai, and has plans to roll out 10 more units Mandy Moore in Coach’s spring campaign for general, and she embodies that,” said Reed Krakoff, president this year. A flagship in Nagoya will open April 7. Japan shot by Steven Sebring. FINDINGS ROCKS ’N’ ROLL: Jewelers are normally associated with Manhattan’s uptown. But Swiss Only the genuine Longchamp Pliage jeweler de Grisogono has an interest downtown. never disappoints in any detail. Since the brand had planned to launch on Sept. 11, 2001, de Grisogono has made efforts to help revitalize lower Manhattan. Its second annual Wall Street Concert Series, which is cohosted by Giuseppe Cipriani, kicks off March 15 with performances by Rod Stewart, Sheryl Crow, Alicia Keys, Marc Anthony and Stevie Wonder, who are scheduled to perform throughout the yearlong series that benefits Wall Street Rising, a nonprofit group dedicated to rebuilding lower Manhattan. Concerts will be at Cipriani’s restaurant at 55 Wall Street. Longchamp was founded in 1948 To contribute to the cause, owner Fawaz Gruosi has designed a limited-edition watch with the and has become synonymous words “Lower Manhattan” engraved on the dial to be auctioned during the event. with stylish and innovative bags PERLINA MAKES STRIDES: Handbag brand Perlina is stepping into spring with a new and accessories. collection. Yves Levenson, founder of shoe brand David Aaron, will be creative director The Longchamp Pliage bag and brand manager for the firm’s new division. Driving shoes, T-strap stilettos and open-toed mules will be has been a hit since 1993. among the silhouettes offered during this week’s market. The collection will be made in leather, The Pliage bag is identified by its brocade fabrics and suede in tones such as hunter green, chocolate brown and gold. Retail unique design (something our prices range from $80 to $125.

RAFE’S NEW HOME: In time to show his fall collection, handbag lawyers call “Trade Dress”). designer Rafé Totengco did some spring cleaning. After five years, the designer is Longchamp controls trademark and moving his office, design studio and sales showroom from 1 Bleecker Street to 85 Fifth trade dress rights in the Pliage bag Avenue in New York. His store will remain at the Bleecker address. Totengco’s new 7,000- square-foot space was a film and will enforce these rights to production office. Today, it will feature light blue walls and chocolate brown wood floors, and the fullest extent of the law. Rafé shoes, men’s and women’s bags and small leather goods will be displayed among white lacquered steel fixtures, Asian WE INVITE YOU TO CONTACT US TO LEARN HOW TO BECOME AN AUTHORIZED LONGCHAMP DISTRIBUTOR. antiques and hand-carved Louis LONGCHAMP USA - 435A US HIGHWAY 130 NORTH - YARDVILLE, NJ 08620 - PHONE: 609-581-5555 - FAX: 609-581-5559 XVI chairs. 16 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005

Accessories Calvin and Oscar’s Better Bags

By Emily Holt and Sophia Chabott 400 to 600 doors, including Federated and May stores, likely next step. Dillard’s and Saks Inc. A shoe line with some 45 styles will retail from $60 to NEW YORK — The better accessories category is “Based on the reaction of buyers who previewed $99 and roll out to stores toward the end of the year. beginning to resemble the designer tier, based the line, we think that, in a very short period of time, Bolen intends distribution to correspond with that of on the brand names entering the field. we’ll be a top, if not the biggest brand in this price O Oscar apparel, which is now in about 700 doors. Al- Calvin Klein and Oscar de la Renta zone,” Murry said. “I think the quality is as good, if though he declined to divulge sales projections for the are jumping on board, after Michael not better than some of the other brands in this line, Bolen conveyed interest in taking O Oscar into oth- Kors and Tommy Hilfiger launched price point. We’re very impressed with what er categories such as men’s wear and watches. collections last year. Accessory Network Group has produced.” “It has been our intention all along to make O Oscar a Calvin Klein will produce hand- O Oscar The line is housed in Accessory Net- lifestyle label,” he said. bags, small leather goods, hats and work Group’s newly created luxury divi- As for the target consumer, Bolen said, “It’s not neces- scarves under license with Accessory sion that also includes the handbag sarily for a younger customer….It’s for a woman who is Network Group for fall. Shoes were label Ghurka. fashion conscious with a moderate launched for spring and are licensed to “Calvin Klein is a very well recog- budget who appreciates Oscar’s Jimlar Corp. nized brand in department stores,” sophisticated designs.” O Oscar handbags will be manufac- said Abe Chehebar, ANG chairman He also ascertained that de la tured under license with The Betesh and chief executive officer. “The Renta himself is quite involved in Group. Allure, a division of Marchon Calvin Klein team has done a the O Oscar design process. “Ulti- Eyewear Inc., will handle , great job in communicating mately, he says yea or nay to any and The Fashion House Inc. will pro- their vision to us.” of our licensees’ designs,” duce shoes. O Oscar accessories will Bolen said. Klein’s chic bags are in a similar be targeted toward like mode to products offered in the upscale channels of distribution Calvin Klein Calvin Klein Collection. Soft bucket bags and take a cue from the design- in distressed chocolate brown or python- er’s signature sophisticated ladylike embossed leather, sleek metallic leather look. The handbag line consists of about 40 styles that clutches and a large crocodile-embossed tote range from a purple tweed tote with fake-leather trim and are key items that will appeal to the better cus- a bow at the center to an east-west style in plum, accented tomer and a bridge or designer shopper looking for an with a gold-tone closure emblazoned with the O Oscar logo. inexpensive purchase. The bags will retail for $32 to $75. Wholesale prices for bags start at $17 for a leather O Oscar sunglasses include large plastic looks in and hit $109 for a bucket bag. Hats range from eggplant and sage with crystal logo detail at the tem- $22 wholesale for a matte satin to $64 wholesale ples to metal frames with pronounced temples and flo- for a floppy, wide- brimmed felt style. ral etchings. The frames will retail from $35 to $48 at Calvin Klein Inc. president and chief operating offi- department stores. Although the line does not include cer Tom Murry anticipates the collection to roll out to ophthalmic styles yet, ceo Alex Bolen said that it is a PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY ailable in 24Kt. gold over sterling and tarnish free . Av Empire State Building, Suite 6712, 401•941•7700, www.danecraft.com Real People. Real Jewelry. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 17 WWD.COM Favaro Brings Tocca Into Bags Muriel Favaro By Sophia Chabbott the Cynthia O’Connor Showroom. Wholesale prices range from $36 for a cosmetics bag to $175 for a larger piece. NEW YORK — Tocca, the fashion house known for its floral Favaro, originally from Geneva, had many incarnations in themes, feminine embroidery and cheeky colors, is hoping accessories before taking on her role as handbag designer for to reach full bloom with handbags. Tocca. She was a senior designer at Kate Spade from 1996 to The company has hired Muriel Favaro to design the line, 2000, where she brought her millinery skills to the handbags. and fall is her first season. She also had her own accessories company that sold in spe- A former designer for Kate Spade and design cialty stores primarily in Europe, and consisted of hand- director of accessories for Kenneth Cole, Favaro bags, hats, jewelry and soft accessories. Until 2004, she has created 30 styles for Tocca, taking influence was design director of accessories for Kenneth Cole. from the eclectic romanticism that embodies the By giving serious attention to handbags, and brand. Favaro’s entry to the company follows perhaps other categories such as jewelry and president Gordon Finkelstein’s decision to take shoes eventually, Finkelstein wants to make the handbag category more seriously. accessories a significant part of the busi- Favaro has made an effort to be true to ness. The privately held company has Tocca’s core spirit rather than following been producing clothing since 1994 and the latest craze, as Tocca considers itself a is now in 200 specialty doors including company that doesn’t jump all over trends. Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman Offerings include a selection of nylon and Scoop. Finkelstein projects handbags totes embroidered with a sprinkling of to account for 5 percent of the business tiny gold sequins, creating a modern, yet this year and expects that number to dou- sari-like feeling, evoking the sari sun- ble in 2006. dress that put the line on the map. An Tocca has been doing accessories for eight oversized shopper is made of burgundy seasons now, but Favaro’s appointment sig- suede circles with spiral trapunto stitch- nals that the brand is looking at it as a growth ing in a shingle-like arrangement, its closure, an opportunity. HANDBAG PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; FAVARO BY JOHN AQUINO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; FAVARO HANDBAG PHOTOS BY antiqued-gold rose finial mimicking the doorknobs of the “To make [accessories] a serious business, we had to company’s showroom in the West Chelsea area of bring on a serious designer,” Finkelstein said. Manhattan. Another style is constructed in what Favaro Tocca also has retail on the brain. Its SoHo store calls a “Byzantine-print upholstery fabric” in Mod con- closed shortly after Sept. 11, 2001, and now the firm trasting colors of pink and green with leather handles. has only one store in Japan. Signature pieces in the line include leather-covered Finkelstein said, “We would love to pursue a retail rings connecting the handle to the body of the bag, exagger- strategy, maybe [a store in] New York would be soon- ated leather-covered gussets with a pointed arch motif and er rather than later….We’re always looking to amplified hand-sewn leather-covered buttons. Each bag is expand distribution.” lined in signature Tocca light blue and lavender cotton. Slated to hit stores in July, the collection will be sold through Three new styles from Tocca’s fall collection. 18 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005

Accessories Ippolita’s Golden Touch

By Emily Holt Working prototypes of Ippolita the home collection. NEW YORK — Jewelry designer Ippolita Rostagno sits Rostagno in her Midtown showroom surrounded by a myriad of things: her golden baubles, a glass arm, a brass door- knob, an embellished leather . With feathers in her hair, she proudly gestures that’s it’s all made by hand and all her design. It’s obvious Rostagno’s mission goes beyond jewelry into a broader vision. The challenge is whether she can realize that vision, which includes introducing a home line, men’s jewelry, handbags and opening her first store — all by a self-imposed fall deadline. The fine jewelry sector has maintained steady growth in the last year, but few companies have generat- ed increases on par with Ippolita’s business. Sales in- creased to $21 million last year from $2.8 million in 2002. Projected volume for 2005 is $42 million. “The numbers are dizzying,” Rostagno said. Four months ago, the company launched its e-com- merce site at Ippolita.com and sales already have reached $600,000. Rostagno’s keen sense of design has clearly con- tributed to the five-year-old company’s success. The line’s handcrafted look and use of unexpected materials sculpture garden, sort of to demystify such as acorns follow in line with trends in the market. the idea that art is up there some- Thin bangles and rings are made from an 18-karat where and only a few people par- alloy that Rostagno mixes herself and have tiny dia- take of it, but actually, it’s something monds set in them. range from long chains accessible….One of the reasons I’ve with various and charms to a strand of chunky been so into home is because I’ve turquoise with a sculpted gold clasp. Wholesale prices been renovating my house.” start at $400 and go up to $3,000. The collection is avail- Rostagno’s background encour- able in Bergdorf Goodman, 30 Neiman Marcus doors ages her to look at her career more and 30 specialty retailers. This spring, it will launch in as an arbiter of an aesthetic than a six Saks Fifth Avenue flagships. jeweler. Growth also has stemmed from the firm’s ability to Born in Florence, Italy, to an turn around product within three weeks, allowing it to experimental theater director fa- replenish retailer’s cases regularly and address their ther and American mother, PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY particular requests, said Lee Chan, chief operating offi- Rostagno studied art there until she cer. Chan joined the company last year to strengthen in- came to the U.S. at age 20. She The jewelry and home collections frastructure and production capacities. Cheryl Joseph, moved to Los Angeles with hopes of a both will likely be available. vice president of sales and merchandising, came to the career in dance, and eventually Rostagno is looking for the freedom to Diamond and 18-karat gold bangles. company in January to focus on retail strategies. moved to New York. do something nonsensical, such as creat- Rostagno isn’t interested in designing a second lower- “There wasn’t enough of a cultural ing a collection out of nuts or using a hat or a priced line or adding more doors to her distribution to scene out in L.A.,” she said. cake box for packaging. grow. Instead, she is planning to deepen her pres- In New York, she went to work “In a sense, I want to share my aesthetic, as opposed ence in existing accounts by in- at an advertising agency, where to growing a brand,” she said. troducing new categories. Molded she was introduced to fashion as She’s also out to help other designers achieve a similar For fall, the designer is de- bracelet in a business. In 2000, she intro- goal, for which the company has just incorporated a new veloping a sterling silver 18-karat gold. duced her first jewelry collection. organization called the Ippolita Foundation: Art Matters. collection for Bergdorf ’s and “I grew up with this ingrained “The thing artists lack the most of is time and the fi- a men’s jewelry line. sense of responsibility to the so- nancing to take time off,” Rostagno said. “I want to give a In addition, she is working cial body,” said Rostagno, refer- large amount of money to one person, sort of like a prize.” on a home collection to intro- ring to her father’s influence. She is completing the legal matters and rules for vet- duce at the same time. But it “Because I’m interested in art and ar- ting candidates, but said artists from all over the world won’t be about tabletop and tistically inclined, that’s how it’s come will be invited to enter the contest and one will win a glassware. Rostagno’s version of out, that’s how I’ve expressed it. Basically, large enough sum of money to support himself or her- home is much more exploratory and includes I’m interested in forms of communication.” self for one to two years while he or she pursues his or small sculptures of human figures, brass doorknobs Rostagno is ready to communicate her artistic her craft. that evoke gnarled wood, and a bento box of small ob- vision directly to consumers. The company plans to open “I also do fine art,” Rostagno said, motioning to the jects that Rostagno calls “a starter kit of good taste.” It a concept store in Manhattan in late fall, in addition to all glass sculptures around her. “But I don’t bring that into also is expected to land in Neiman Marcus stores this the new lines in the works. A location has not been set. the picture because it’s like, ‘OK, what else do you do?’ fall, but prices have not been set. “It’s an experience and a concept that will launch a But what I’m doing with the foundation is what I wish “This is my idea of home,” she said. “A miniature real new plateau for retailers,” Chan said. someone would do for me.” WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 19 WWD.COM

Gerard Yosca in Julie Hall’s Gerard Yosca Springs Into Fall showroom. By Holly Haber DALLAS — Gerard Yosca has been designing jewelry for 23 years and business has never been better. The designer is enjoying a peak in popularity as his exotic wood jewelry and colorful brooches have struck a fashion chord. “Business is great,” said Yosca, appearing as guest designer at Fashion Industry Gallery here in late January. He said sales last year rose almost $4 million and he’s aiming for a 20 to 25 percent increase in 2005. Long known for colorful fashion jewelry, Yosca’s knack for anticipating and hitting trends has been on a roll. Since Yosca’s wood jewels were introduced last September at Tracy Reese’s spring runway show, they have been bestsellers. “Wood is a new semiprecious material,” Yosca said. “Semiprecious stones have gotten so inexpensive that they are losing their meaning and many are dyed to look good. But wood is wood, and everyone can appreciate its vibe.” For fall, he’s working with bronze and sculptural metals mixed with feathers. “It will continue to be very mixed up,” Yosca said. He calls it “repurposed jewelry,” meaning jewelry that looks like vintage pieces that were taken apart and put back together, such as a button necklace or an composed of pearls, a cameo and an enamel flower. “By mixing things around, you amplify,” he said. “When you wear something unexpected, it looks young. Kids don’t have the Labor Day rules. They have a different set of values and it’s charming. If you only wear fabulous real jewelry, you look old.” The second fall delivery will move into burnished gold, along with bronze and dark metals. The palette will be toned down and will include smoky indigo, brown, deep blue greens, plum and burgundy. “I’m moving a little Russian, which is more real ornate as opposed to ethnic ornate,” he said. “You might still pile it on, but it has to look like you are piling on fabulous, not just stuff. It will have more of a suggestion of sparkle, as opposed to bright sparkle.” Yosca produced long ropes of colored Lucite beads for Nanette Lepore’s fall runway show in February and did jewelry for Reese’s show again, but he couldn’t say whether those pieces will be sold under their labels or his own. His motivation for collaborating with the designers was to get his work in front of editors and buyers. “For American designers, the whole concept of runway jewelry is kind of new,” he said. “Think of how many people don’t show anything….Tracy is unusual for a young designer to actually accessorize her looks. Most of them don’t do that. In Europe, everybody accessorizes. It adds polish.” Though the business is under his name and he gets all the press, Yosca is not a one-man show. The design- er’s wife, Susan, whom he met while teaching advertising at Parsons School of Design, runs the business and also designs. Specialty stores are the lifeblood of Yosca’s business and his only major store account is Saks Fifth Avenue. The company sells to 546 boutiques nationwide, including Fred Segal in Los Angeles and Scoop in New York.

“We have stores we’ve been selling to for 20 years,” Yosca said. “Small stores know how to sell things.” GEORGE HENSON PHOTO BY

To see the new Jones New York collection please call 800-648-6010 or contact [email protected]

Jones New York Division of Essex Manufacturing 350 5th Ave, Suite 501 New York, NY 10118 20 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 WWD.COM Mattsson Out at Oriflame Sergio Rossi Appoints By Poul Funder Larsen and boasts a sales force of more than 1.5 mil- lion representatives, reported 2004 sales of COPENHAGEN — Oriflame, 670.7 million euros, or Isabelle Guichot CEO the troubled Swedish cos- $876.2 million. Its net prof- metics direct seller, said it its for the period clocked in By Luisa Zargani Paulich said in a recent interview has dismissed its chief ex- BEAUTY BEAT at 79.6 million euros, or that he had strived to create a collec- ecutive, Sven Mattsson. $104 million. MILAN — Isabelle Guichot will take tion of handbags that “would have a He will be replaced by Magnus Brann- over as chief executive officer of life of its own,” and was not necessari- strom, formerly the head of the firm’s opera- Sergio Rossi at the end of the month, ly connected to the footwear for which tions in Russia and other countries that Kebede Named WHO Ambassador replacing Claudio Paulich, Gucci the brand is best known. For this rea- made up the Soviet Union. NEW YORK — Estée Lauder model Liya Group announced Friday. son, Paulich said the company was re- Poor sales performance since Oriflame’s Kebede was named Goodwill Ambassador for Guichot, Gucci’s director of busi- modeling the boutiques to fit special stock exchange listing last year is the main Maternal, Newborn and Child Health for the ness development, will maintain her displays dedicated to bags and small reason behind the decision, the company’s World Health Organization during a ceremony current duties at the Italian luxury leather goods, such as the Paris bou- board said. this morning at the organization’s headquar- group. Paulich, who could not be tique and its first store in Tokyo. “During its first year on the Stockholm ters in Geneva. According to the WHO, more reached for comment, is leaving “to Sources said Paulich was initially exchange, the company has not lived up to than 500,000 women die each year during pursue his personal activities,” ac- viewed as the person who would help the expectations of the board of directors,” pregnancy and childbirth. Close to 11 million cording to a statement from Gucci. turn around the firm after Massimo the board said in a statement.d children die before the age of five. Most of “I am very pleased that Isabelle Braglia left as ceo in spring 2003. Mattsson, who has been with Oriflame these deaths occur in the developing world has accepted this position and I am Braglia had not succeeded in growing for 17 years, took the company public in and could be prevented by skilled attendants sure that her extensive experience in the firm as expected and did not get March 2004. The offering was a success, but at birth, breast feeding and vaccinations, the brand development and international along with Rossi, the sources said. sales rose just 3 percent last year, well WHO stated. Dr. Lee Jong-wook, director gen- luxury retailing will be instrumental A person close to the company said below the company’s long-term target of 10 eral of the WHO, appointed Ethiopia-born in driving profitable growth at Sergio there is still some uneasiness at San to 15 percent annualized growth. Kebede, who is a mother herself. Rossi over the next few years,” Mauro Pascoli, in central Italy, where That has sent the stock sharply lower in re- Robert Polet, the Gucci Group’s pres- the company is based. Gucci parent cent months. Company shares — which listed Liya Kebede ident and ceo, said in the statement. company PPR does not disclose finan- at 190 Swedish kronas, or $25.37 at average ex- “I would like to thank Claudio for his cial results for Sergio Rossi. But ac- change, and hit an all-time high of 278 contribution to the brand.’’ cording to the latest report in Sept- Swedish kronas, or $37.13, last June — rose 5 Guichot, who joined Gucci this year ember 2004, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, percent Tuesday on the news of a new ceo to from Richemont SA, said she was “de- Bédat & Co., Alexander McQueen, 154 Swedish kronas, or $22.43. The stock lighted,” as the brand is “acknowledged Stella McCartney and Balenciaga col- closed flat at 152 Swedish kronas, or $22.14. worldwide for the excellent quality lectively reduced their operating loss- Brannstrom, 38, has headed Oriflame’s and design of its glamorous, made-in- es by 2.6 million euros, or $3.3 million, operations in Russia and other Soviet states Italy products.” She praised the “high- over the second quarter. Dollar fig- since joining the company in 1997. During ly talented and motivated team.” ures have been converted from the his tenure, company sales in the region That team has recently been aug- euro at current exchange rates. have quadrupled to 330 million euros, or mented by the addition of designers There had been speculation that $431.1 million, last year. Edmundo Castillo and Rodolfo Del Gianvito Rossi was considering leav- “There will be quicker decision-making Chiaro, in charge of footwear and ing the company his father founded, [now], with more focus on Russia and handbags, respectively, under the cre- but he will stay on to see where the Eastern Europe,” the company’s chairman ative direction of Sergio Rossi. restructuring will lead. and founder Robert af Jochnick said in the The announcement about Guichot — With contributions from statement. confirmed a WWD report. Alessandra Ilari Oriflame, which operates in 55 countries

and with the elimination of quotas, there is not a lot of hope they will be able to use that capacity.” McMillion said this means companies likely will Industry Job Losses Mount shut more plants and lay off more people. In the retail sector, apparel and accessories stores By Kristi Ellis February to employ 267,100 people, a decline of 28,100 added 6,800 jobs last month to employ 1.4 million. The compared with a year ago. Textile mill employment fell number of jobs at general merchandise stores rose WASHINGTON — The pace of employment losses in the 2,300 to 228,800, a year-over-year drop of 11,500, while 10,400 to 2.9 million. Department stores added 4,000 textile and apparel manufacturing sectors accelerated textile mill product employment declined by 700 to workers to employ 1.6 million. in the first two months of the year, as companies shed a 177,500, but showed a gain of 2,400 against a year ago. Carl Steidtmann, chief economist at Deloitte total of 5,600 jobs in February and the Labor Depart- Total textile and apparel employment is 673,400. Research, attributed the increase in employment to ment revised downward the January job losses by an- The employment report came as China safeguard seasonal adjustments. “Retailers didn’t hire during the other 1,200. petitions seeking to limit imports and save U.S. jobs holiday season, so not as many people had to be laid The government’s employment report on Friday also are the subject of a federal lawsuit and injunction as off,” Steidtmann said. “As a result, that shows up on a revealed that the overall economy added 262,000 jobs well as a political debate over China’s potential to seasonally adjusted basis as a gain.” in the month — the highest number since October — al- dominate global apparel and textile production. In the overall U.S. economy, the job gains were pri- though the unemployment rate rose to 5.4 percent from “We had these kind of [job] drops in 2003, which was marily in service industries. Overall manufacturing em- 5.2 percent largely because more people entered the a terrible year for the industry, but last year was a re- ployment bounced back by 20,000 in February, following workforce looking for jobs but did not find them. markably stable year,” said Charles McMillion, presi- a loss of 25,000 jobs in January and 7,000 in December. Economists blamed apparel and textile employment dent and chief economist at MBG Information Services. “This was the best job growth in four and five losses on the long-term shift to offshore production and “The industry has been carrying very expensive unused months in the economy as a whole,” Steidtmann said. imports. Apparel factories eliminated 2,600 positions in capacity — roughly one-third of its capacity is unused — “That is a positive development.” A SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION IN WWD MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005

LEGWEAR 2005: INNOVATION AT WORK

The $3 billion women’s legwear market is heating up with designer looks and advances in fiber technology. From runways to retail, legwear offering comfort, fashion and function is the year’s ultimate .

1 LEGWEAR HOT SOX ADVERTISEMENT New Colors and Styles Creating a Legwear Boom One color stands out today in legwear retail , Mountain High Hosiery offers proprietary capabilities and supply chain management. sales: Green. labels and products under licensing agreements The privately held company in San Diego houses With fresh styles, prints and textures commanding for top brands like Esprit, Tommy Hilfiger, Bill a design and merchandising team committed to consumer interest hosiery retail sales are thriving Blass, Adidas, Johnston & Murphy and Body Glove. offering customers “fresh new ideas, innovative and now are a year-round business, sources With a mission to be the premier manufacturer products and creative merchandising conceptions,” confirmed. whose ideas are brought to life in Asia and Central Women have enthusiastically learned legwear Esprit by Mountain High Hosiery America with material sourced worldwide. The offers a creative, affordable way to upgrade a company’s 48,000 square foot distribution center wardrobe, said Marshal Cohen, industry analyst, features a flexible layout to optimally control the NPD Group. “All of a sudden people are interested material handling process. in the leg again. They’re realizing a great way to Distribution includes a wide range of retail accessorize an outfit is hosiery.” channels, like department stores, discount retail Consumers will gladly buy if they can change or chains, specialty stores, warehouse clubs and improve their look with exciting legwear, he said. catalogs. With sales offices in , “It’s easier to spend up to $20 for than San Diego, Toronto, St. Louis, Newport Beach, $100 for a whole new outfit. It can almost pay to Philadelphia, Winston-Salem and Costa Rica, the buy new hosiery.” company affirmed its “primary focus is to Innovation has helped the industry prosper, he accommodate our customers’ business needs added. “Newness is driving the market. If you by offering an extensive assortment of accurate walk into any store today, the legwear message information analysis and recommendations.” is all about color, color, color! Color appeals to all According to Chris Cusenza, creative director, age segments now,” he said. legwear trends for Spring 2005 will feature a fusion “There are two things happening: A movement of fashion and function, with favorites like sheers back to traditional textures and fishnets standing out. Spring will (like argyles and vertical “Women are now catching on to function; be “very flirty and feminine” in color, stripes) and the mixing of however comfort and a soft hand continue details and yarn. color. And it won’t be just Cusenza added Coolmax® will be one solid color; there will be to be very important.” important, for instance white Coolmax® avant-garde combinations that mixed with summer colors. may seem almost shocking to – Ken Walter, senior vice president of marketing For Fall 2005, there will be an the eye.” Mountain High Hosiery explosion of color, she declared. By infusing the latest fashion New themes will include: trends with state-of-the-art technology, Mountain of quality hosiery, Mountain High’s “passion • Wellness and pampering the foot with High Hosiery continues to step up as a leader for the product” leads to quality and assortment featuring special scents or finishes like aloe. in the hosiery market, creating products that in all genders and categories, he asserted. The • Lush luxury yarns with a soft touch and huge “last and serve the customer better,” confirmed firm boasts one of the most diversified ranges range of color. Ken Walter, senior vice president of marketing. of manufacturing operations in the industry, • Shiny and sparkle styles. As one of the largest suppliers of private label with state-of-the-art facilities, vertical processing continued to Legwear, page 8 Inside and Out: Latest Legwear Offers Health and Well-Being

Consumers today truly care about legwear, seeking styles that “People expect to find products that are comfortable,” do not just look good, but make them feel good. agreed Cook. “We’ve relaxed our lifestyles, and with With its growing line of LYCRA® Body Care products, INVISTA that relaxation comes an expectation of comfort. – which produces LYCRA® and CoolMax® fibers – is answering “We believe that well-being is a whole lifestyle and the call for hosiery that does more than just cover the leg. The will continue to be exciting and will continue to new generation of LYCRA® Body Care uses specially engineered attract consumer interest.” fibers and micro-encapsulated technology to give wearers The advent of LYCRA® Body Care is a major benefits like all-day freshness, moisturizing and massage, component of INVISTA’s plan to stay at the explained Sharon Cook, INVISTA North American marketing forefront of legwear innovation. “The Body manager of legwear. Care collection is based on state of the art Women are focused more than ever on well-being and seek technology from the R&D department as well products that contribute to a healthy lifestyle. “They really want as alliances with other textile producers and to make a special effort to take care of themselves, and this is one suppliers – one outcome of the company’s move to product that helps them do that,” commented Dianne Lober, become a global integrator of technologies in the textile marketing communication manager, INVISTA. marketplace.” LYCRA® Body Care offers consumers a revolutionary way By conducting market research, INVISTA has helped to enhance mind, body and spirit. “We’ve done research hosiery manufacturers fine tune their understanding of all around the world and we recognize this is top-of-mind customers’ needs and “direct individual companies towards Socks with for consumers.” continued to Legwear, page 10 LYCRA® Body Care 2 LEGWEAR

ADVERTISEMENT Innovation and Quality SHEER KNOWLEDGE: Driving the Market LEGWEAR FAQS: Advances in technology are giving legwear added an entire category to Comfort, asserted Susan Spindell, growth and momentum, confirmed Dan St. Louis, national sales manager. “Comfort and function are director of the Hosiery Technology Center, which more important than ever before. People yearn to feel assists the hosiery industry through training, R&D and good in their clothing, and we have recognized this Q: Why can’t pantyhose be made new product development. all-important trend with the unveiling of our newest that won’t run? The center, which conducts testing for retailers and Hot Sox Comfort collection.” A: They could. But no one could research and development for hosiery and yarn With the introduction of Hot Sox Comfort, Hot Sox wear them since they would makers, has developed new concepts for the industry believes it can capture new customers interested in not have enough stretch to fit which received strong touch and feel, as well as the wearer’s body. The stitches reaction and soon may fashion, Wolkowitz added. would be too tight to allow for enter the market, he “More and more women the proper fit. revealed. “It’s all about are concerned with head- what the fibers will do,” he to-toe dressing that offers said, explaining suppliers both comfort and hipness. Q: What is “Colorfastness”? have been seeking new This consumer has not been A: Colorfastness is defined as concepts like anti-microbial, addressed in the past with the resistance of a material to wicking, heat transfer and a product assortment as change of any of its color bio-degradable fibers. diversified as our new Hot characteristics, resulting from Moisture management Sox Comfort line.” exposure of the material to any has become a major issue “Today more than ever, environment encountered during for high-tech socks, with the customer is aware of the processing, testing, storage consumers consistently ‘feel good’ fabrications,” or use of the material. wanting newness, he reported Serina Agosta, revealed. Hot Sox design director. Q: What are sized socks? Manufacturers seek “There is a peaked interest innovation, not “price, price, in microfibers, viscose A: Sized socks are knit using only price,” he said. “The key blends and rayon blends hard yarn like cotton and other is people are willing to pay because of their luxurious non-stretch yarns which will for something that truly hand. When the customer only fit one size. is different and better. picks up a and can’t We consistently see they put it down because it Q: What does “Gauge” mean? definitely will pay for feels so amazingly soft and quality.” Hot Sox comfortable, she can’t wait A: Gauge defines the size or Advances have particu- to put them on her feet.” thickness of the knitting larly come in performance “Women are looking for Both consumers and elements (like needles, sinkers, styles, with sport socks retailers are responding to sliders, etc). It is computed by featuring technical attributes creative, innovative approaches softness, added Spindell, the number of needles in the very successful. to legwear – and Hot Sox offers which explains the bur- cylinder and the distance The legwear market the full spectrum of styles.” geoning Comfort business between them. continues to advance and Hot Sox has recognized. evolve in new directions, – Gary Wolkowitz, president, Always seeking innovative Q: What does rib and frame stitch stressed St. Louis. “More Hot Sox ways to propel the legwear mean? people are coming in category, Hot Sox consis- looking for something different. We get major brands tently responds to customers’ needs, affirmed Agosta. A: A rib stitch is formed on a looking to upgrade their line, make it even better and “Experimentation and innovation is a major part of our double cylinder machine when give it more appeal.” design process, which in turn becomes the major the knitting needles are in the Serving the legwear market now demands speed, he strength behind the Hot Sox brand. The firm constantly top cylinder, forming the “low said. “You’ve got to be sure you stay quick and agile. experiments with yarns, patterns, techniques and color part” of a rib sock. A frame The supply chain is key – You have to stay nimble.” combinations.” stitch is formed when the And setting the pace in the most modern way is With its diverse selections, “Hot Sox offers the knitting needles are in the Hot Sox, offering newness that is fresh and functional advantage of always being timely and trend-right, bottom cylinder, forming the for today’s lifestyles. regardless of the season,” stressed Spindell. “Spring, “high part” of a rib sock. “Women are looking for creative, innovative when bare legs dominate, can be challenging, but approaches to legwear – and Hot Sox offers the full Hot Sox responds with fresh, new silhouettes that Q: What is “Plating”? spectrum of styles,” said Gary Wolkowitz, president, correspond to emerging trends in the shoe market. In Hot Sox. fall, Hot Sox extends its reach not only by maximizing A: Plating is the process that Hot Sox has always set the standard for exciting, its sock business, which are key fall items at involves laying a yarn - usually contemporary socks and hosiery with its popular retail, but also with fashion legwarmers and , and a stretch yarn - behind the Black and Silver collections, but for Fall 2005 it will luxury blends such as cashmere, angora and camel body yarn to produce a fabric introduce Hot Sox Comfort. A breakthrough assortment hair yarns.” that has stretch properties and of innovative styles that offer specific features to The firm offers one of the broadest range of styles in a range of fit. customers, the new Comfort line was built around the the marketplace, added Wolkowitz. Retail price points concept of offering the most comfortable, cozy socks range from 3 for $15 to luxury and hand-embellished for lounging at home, bringing comfort to work, or as items like slipper socks and leg warmers that can retail Source: Hosiery Technology Center/Legsource.com street wear. for $25 per pair. Hot Sox is the first legwear resource to dedicate continued to Legwear, page 6 4 LEGWEAR

ADVERTISEMENT Experimenting with Creativity: Legwear Filling Unique Market Niches The leg is in, and consumers way of updating their look and accessorizing any create multiple dimensions and interest in our agree: Legwear is more important outfit, she noted. product.” than ever. Despite popularity of some traditional patterns Important new market trends Soxland has delivered “I’ve never seen such a and materials, consumers are always hungry for to the market include embroidery and beautiful buzz in legwear,” affirmed Sally “newness”, which Soxland translated into soft embellishments, which are a strong benefit it offers. Kay, president, The Hosiery yarns, fuzzy yarns, textured yarns and beautiful, The firm has enjoyed particular success tapping Association. “Legwear is at rich colors. into consumers in the contemporary market, which the fashion industry’s forefront The rainbow of colors now available continues to is “an attitude, not an age,” said Reese. more than ever before!” command attention and is key, she stated. The Soxland is moving in new directions by introducing For Spring, hosiery’s style emphasis is shifting from bright to strong, beautiful unique accessories to work with shoes, she added. direction is clear: “It’s all about colors, she affirmed. Knee socks have been a very strong trend favored color,” she asserted. “Color Even though Davco’s price points have basically by consumers and retailers. is key, but also the stayed the same, the firm also is offering more novel Soxland creates new styles and treatments after finishes – with all the textures, patterns “To be cutting edge in design requires having a and new technology unique point of view. It means ranging from having the Chinese Laundry by Soxland coming out. There softest, most feminine of looks to the most whimsical are so many opportunities to raise the bar to new levels. “The colors for Spring are pinks, oranges, even colorful novelties.” shades of dusty rose, citrus, lilacs, melon…it’s classic chic. We’re also seeing preppy chic for younger – Susan Reese, vice president of sales, people, too, with stripes, argyles, polka dots, florals.” Soxland Kay related the tale of a 20-something shopper so captivated by purple tights she had found, she yarns and appliqués, which translates into higher receiving constant input from retailers, letting first purchased them and then bought other items value for consumers, Reese stressed. the firm create collections that tell a complete especially to wear them with. The firm’s retail distribution continues to evolve, with color story. Soxland International Inc., which offers retailers its Chinese Laundry collection having established With color and novelty yarns its distinct an array of innovative products under the Davco and a very strong retail base of better specialty stores. advantage, its socks feature stickers and labels Chinese Laundry labels, will unveil a wealth of new “Their success with the collection has been identifying each item. trends and styles for Spring 2005. very exciting,” said Reese. Because the firm “To be cutting edge in design requires having Even though traditional styles may remain popular, continually introduces a unique point of view. It means ranging from “whimsical looks with an edge” are the company’s exciting, fresh styles, having the softest, most feminine of looks to the primary hallmark, and are still selling. Soxland it has been gaining most whimsical colorful novelties,” explained Susan flourishes by marrying both fashion and comfort, valuable retail floor Reese, vice president of sales. Reese asserted. “We have been producing a sport space, she reported. The creative styles offered by firms like Soxland sock with embroidery for years and the consumer Appealing to a broad increasingly impact and influence how women loves it!” customer base from dress and select their wardrobe, she said. “We are The line delivers distinct benefits to consumers, teens to tweens to offering consumers more legwear products and she stressed. “Our brands offer fashion, color, right Boomers, Soxland increasing options of how to wear them: like a pair texture and right design. We believe in coordinating has particularly of novel tights layered with a ; using the your legwear with your lifestyle,” she confirmed, scored points with legwarmer as an arm warmer or vice versa; having noting Soxland’s creative team constantly is reviewing Chinese Laundry, knee socks paired with tights; and comfortable and evaluating what women want and need to offering styles appro- shorties with cushioned bottoms inside your boot.” complete their looks. “We are fortunate to be able priate for the popular Legwear offers women an affordable and economical to use fine gauge novel yarns in our hosiery to footwear brand. Chinese Laundry by Soxland New Technologies Give Legwear Added Growth and Momentum continued from Legwear, page 4 There is a Hot Sox product to suit any of a always had great distribution and now we are needs and requirements. woman’s changing needs, observed Wolkowitz. continuing to broaden our department store The firm’s unique Sensil fibers have pushed Legwear lets a woman make a personal statement business,” stated Spindell. microfibers a giant step forward, Johnson stressed. by completing her wardrobe in an innovative way, At Nilit Ltd., innovation is at the very “fiber” of Nilit’s Sensil brand of specialty fibers meets he observed. From a high-performance sock for the company. demands in circular and seamless knitting, providing an active lifestyle to a more fashion-driven From individual polymers to the finished yarns it a family of advanced yarns for activewear, bodywear, approach to layering the leg, hosiery provides the produces, innovation drives the Israel-based fiber hosiery and intimate apparel. finishing touch that makes basic ready-to-wear supplier. For legwear, Nilit offers a variety of specialty yarns look directional, he added. Nilit brings the future of legwear to consumers for knitting patterned legwear and dying multiple Color today is more important than ever. today, thanks to its in-house R&D center creating colors in one dye batch. A new product, Sensil “Women want to coordinate their legwear with the “cutting-edge technological solutions in the Eversheer, gives a smooth touch, sheer appearance season’s ready-to-wear statement,” said Spindell, development of customized yarns, making it an and high durability, Johnson added. The firm also adding color is key for grabbing attention at retail. acknowledged leader in the fiber field,” reported is developing yarns with cosmetic benefits and “While we may primarily sell black in fall and Karen Johnson, president of Nilit America. characteristics. white in spring, it is fuschia and lime that will Novel developments in yarn production have Nilit has become a key player in the international draw attention to our brand at retail.” thrust Nilit to the forefront, Johnson affirmed. seamless industry, with a range of yarns from 44 to With ongoing success, Hot Sox retail distribution Working closely with knitters, designers, and 156 dtex, in a variety of standard and specialty products. is consistently increasing and evolving. “We’ve retailers, Nilit meets their specific manufacturing continued to Legwear, page 9

6 LEGWEAR

ADVERTISEMENT Legwear Offers Retailers Year-Round Sales continued from Legwear, page 2 •Country Manor, bringing English menswear to the market,” he said, noting the firm also is into a more feminine light. expanding into the sports specialty market. • Lavish themes and old Hollywood nostalgia, in The key today is continually meeting and sophisticated colors and yarns. satisfying shoppers’ needs, he affirmed. “We live in • Artisan themes, in deep hues and bold patterns a world where anything goes, and consumers do with a Bohemian flare. not want to be in a box – they want choice, and •Winter Wonderland, with over-scaled fair isles they want it when they want it.” and chunky textures in a soft, icy palette. Legwear offers women abundant choices for The growing array of new legwear trends and updating their wardrobes, with colorful tights, styles offers women a unique way to make individual knee-highs or leg warmers giving an outfit an statements, Walter stressed. “A woman can have entirely new look and feel, he noted. It is a solution fun (with legwear) whether she is showing off her consumers find quick and highly affordable. “The legs or hiding them with pants and boots. Legwear trend (today) in legwear is color, texture and today flirts with the senses! layering. You can dress up a skirt with tights for the “Accessorizing continues to be an important office and on weekends layer with a legwarmer for way for the customer to dress up her wardrobe. The a casual look.” infusion of fashion legwear plays a very important Comfort reigns supreme as one of the most part in the consumer’s apparel selection.” important factors when consumers choose what to After more than 25 years of operation, Mountain buy, Walter observed. “Women are now catching High Hosiery claims an impressive portion of on to function; however comfort and a soft hand the men’s, women’s and children’s markets. The continue to be very important.” company also enjoys close partnerships with may be globally active, with sales of one customers and practices the highest environmental, billion-dollars, yet the thriving brand continues ethical, safety and labor standards. It enjoys to grow, reported John Flynn, vice president longstanding relationships with some of the of sales, Levante USA. nation’s top retailers, like Nordstrom’s, Federated, Specializing in sheer hosiery, Levante offers May Corp., Dillard’s, Belk, Saks Inc., Hudson “very high-quality basics at very affordable Bay Co., Costco Wholesale International, Johnston prices,” ranging from fishnets to patterned hosiery & Murphy, Jos. A. Banks, Brooks Brothers, to “very sophisticated, European stylings,” Levante USA Dayton-Hudson and Van Heusen. introducing new collections up to three times a The secret of Mountain High’s success is year. It also offers bodywear, outerwear and wary of European influences, “now they have innovation, Walter stressed. “Innovation is the key lingerie, Flynn stated. Global growth is so vibrant, embraced it. In the last two years our fashion sell-in to retailers, and most importantly sell-throughs, have been outstanding.” “We use very high-quality yarns in all of our merchandise Levante’s popularity is not limited to just the and that’s what puts us a cut above the rest. When you East and West Coasts, Flynn observed. “Middle combine top-quality yarns and sophisticated European America also has embraced fashion.” Created in 1969 when the small, family-owned styling, you really give consumers an excellent value.” business expanded production of , the firm became the corporation Levante S.p.A. in – John Flynn, vice president of sales, 1979, prominent not just in Italy, but worldwide. Today the lines consist of sheer hosiery, bodywear, Levante USA outerwear and soon will include lingerie. Noting legwear allows women to update their sales to Russia are $20 million, he confirmed. wardrobe with ease, Flynn revealed Levante Levante offers beautiful merchandise at affordable will offer a variety of colors for Spring like blues prices, which U.S. consumers have embraced and pinks, and a selection of stirrup-length and in the last two years, he said. “Our sell-in and Capri-length pantyhose, including the “Pirate,” sell-through has been outstanding.” to be featured in Lord & Taylor’s catalogue, The company’s success stems from offering and “Firestars” and “Hokkaido”, stirrup panty top-notch product at excellent price, Flynn asserted: which allow the foot to be exposed or “We use very high-quality yarns in all of our worn with open-toed shoes and will be big for merchandise and that’s what puts us a cut above spring, he said. the rest. When you combine top-quality yarns Capri-length legwear will be popular because it and sophisticated European styling, you really give allows women to spice up their look, Flynn consumers an excellent value.” predicted. “The fact (women) can wear open-toed What makes the difference is the pricing, shoes and still have a story for their legs is very, which starts as low as $3 wholesale. With basic very big.” hosiery retailing for $7-$17 and premium items Comfort is a major growth area, with Levante at $25-$30, Levante is sold in top department offering specialty legwear addressing health stores and over 700 specialty stores across and well-being, like compression pantyhose and the country. massaging knee-highs. “You’d be amazed what a Owing to its European roots, Levante stays a good pair of support hose can do to make your day step ahead of the latest legwear trends. “Because more pleasurable by taking wear and tear off of we’re based in Italy, we have an edge on the your legs.” domestic market because we’re working on a Bookings for spring are up 40 percent over daily basis with the top designers in Europe, last year, following fall sales “which went though and we’re aware of the trends immediately. In fact, the roof!” Flynn reported. “This is really a we’re helping to form the trends.” growing brand. There’s a lot going on – and every Levante USA While U.S. consumers may once have been day there’s more!”

8 LEGWEAR ADVERTISEMENT Manufacturers Seek Innovation, “Not Price” continued from Legwear, page 6 As a vertically integrated company with elegant fishnets to chunky crochet looks. manufacturing capability from polymers through “For a fun and funky look, legwear uses spinning, drawing and texturing, Nilit supplies interesting patterned graphics and textures, standard and specialty markets with strong unconventional stripes and geometrical motifs, fun technical and quality abilities. prints and details eclectically combined in a daring The firm is expanding worldwide with new spirit of self expression. Worn to be seen, this is functional performance yarns for activewear, intimate the look for a flamboyant young consumer with apparel and legwear, like the Sensil Bodyfresh over-the-top attitude and style.” Anti-bacteria yarn. Layering of different Nilit first introduced Nilit offers “cutting-edge lengths, knee-highs anti-microbial agents technological solutions in the and over-the-knee in mid-2004, using development of customized sheers and opaques them for yarns and yarns, making it an acknowledged are the perfect match garments. Bodyfresh for shorter skirts yarns offer numerous leader in the fiber field.” and dresses, Joselowit benefits, it reported: observed. The sport market – Karen Johnson, president, “Toeless, heelless, appreciates the Nilit America. and footless fishnet added value it gives and lace stockings day-to-day activities. Branded apparel firms find and socks are worn with bright opaques in a range the anti-microbial yarns add 7-15 percent to the of saturated rainbow colors. Paired with knee-high finished garment’s price. boots, stiletto sling backs, pumps and pointy flats, Legwear makers increasingly are bringing more crazy legwear is in the spotlight and is worn for the fashion and fun to the market, observed Nilit’s sheer fun of it. senior design consultant, Ilana Joselowitz. “With “In the junior market, romantic candy colored dresses and skirts abounding, the focus is on legs, pantyhose, socks and are decorated and eye-catching legwear steals the scene as the with lace, ribbons and bows for a Lolita touch.” season’s most essential accessory. Legwear is all Products bringing new fabric, textures or style over the runways and top designers have again to socks or tights put legs back in the spotlight, showcased hot hosiery this coming season, from she noted. Nilit Sensil Fibers

9 LEGWEAR ADVERTISEMENT Welcome to the Future: Legwear Meets Legcare continued from Legwear, page 2 Edward Menicheschi what feels right for them,” Lober remarked. every step. All with the help of LYCRA®. President, Consumers have a strong desire for more products Giving customers the most advanced product requires WWD MediaWorldwide geared toward well-being, Cook noted, and high-tech forward thinking, Cook explained. “With sheer hosiery chemistry has led to new textile finishing treatments and it’s sort of like ‘What’s the plus-one? What’s your next specially engineered yarns. add-on feature for hosiery?’” By focusing on well-being, Ralph Erardy LYCRA® Body Care allows INVISTA has opened the door for Senior VP, Group Publisher benefits like: more and more features, she • Keep My Skin Soft: LYCRA® added. Sarah Murphy Body Care Moisturize technology With demand steady, Phantom, Publisher, Beauty and Marketing, builds invisible micro-beads of Doris and Dominion recently WWD MediaWorldwide skin-soothing Aloe Vera into the launched new LYCRA® Body Care fabric to help condition your skin legwear lines. INVISTA is also as you move throughout the day. pursuing opportunities to expand Joel Fertel • Keep Me Fresh: LYCRA® Body knee-high lines, Cook stated. Associate Publisher, Care Freshness encompasses several “We recognize knee-highs as a Innerwear/Legwear/Textiles different technologies. CoolMax® real growth category, and we’re freshFX™ inhibits the growth of LYCRA®, CoolMax® focusing on helping the industry to odor-causing bacteria by utilizing and LYCRA® Body Care come up with some new ideas.” Danielle McMurray silver, a natural anti- In addition, other Director of Marketing microbial, as tiny particles “We’ve relaxed our lifestyles, and with that market sectors like spun into the yarn. Intimate Apparel are CoolMax®freshFX™ relaxation comes an expectation of comfort.” readily adopting the Dick Silverman Director of Special Projects keeps wearers cool, dry, – Sharon Cook, North American marketing manager of legwear, technology. For example, comfortable and fresh. Olga recently introduced INVISTA • Keep Me Energized: “Smooth Benefits” day- Nick Turner LYCRA® Body Care wear collection with Special Projects Coordinator Massage utilizes micro-encapsulated vitamin E and LYCRA® Body Care moisturize that includes a camisole, graduated compression to energize and invigorate legs. , and hipster. When blood flow is stimulated, it helps reduce foot and INVISTA will reveal a wide selection of new offerings at Elizabeth Bruno leg swelling – particularly benefiting long-distance air the FAST Italian trade show March 16-19, 2005 in Verona. Section Art Director travelers and those who stand for long periods at work. “We have new innovations in everything from sheers to Plus, specially knitted sole constructions massage with knee-highs to socks,” noted Cook. 10 LEGWEAR WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 31 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOWP/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE WWDCOMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 RETAILERS 58.61 27.42Abercrombie Abercrombie & &Fitch Fitch 23.8 86187 56.78 2.55 35.10 21.00Aeropostale Aeropostale 24.4 92647 34.01 2.41 59.17 22.87American American Eagle Eagle Outfitters 18.7 143456 57.57 3.67 30.34 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 15.5 96883 24.60 2.48 S&P 500 33.70 11.45Bebe Bebe 38.7 61256 32.76 4.44 4.00 1.22Bluefly Bluefly - 3627 1.42 0.06 18.19 9.62Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 14.4 3094 17.22 0.10 29.60 17.42Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 15.7 6640 29.40 1.40 23.63 11.31Cache Cache 19.6 6586 16.54 0.82 32.90 18.85Cato Cato 19.8 5323 32.05 2.18 22.24 8.84Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 26.9 24938 12.39 0.80 9.64 6.23Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 13.7 92276 8.95 1.20 30.25 16.91Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 36.1 166204 28.74 -0.77 44.25 16.77Children’s Children's Place Place 33.7 30699 43.90 4.28 53.59 33.73CVS CVS 22.3 171968 52.58 2.71 30.25 22.00Deb Deb Shops Shops 25.3 621 29.50 0.19 27.93 15.21Dillard’s Dillard's 33.1 107135 23.99 -0.46 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 22.80 16.91Dollar Dollar General General 23.4 111876 22.33 1.17 20.50 15.19Dress Dress Barn Barn 19.9 12564 19.70 0.73 59.21 32.40eBay eBay 70.3 731922 41.75 -0.49 37.66 25.09Family Family Dollar Dollar 21.8 54427 32.25 -0.49 11/26 12/10 12/24 1/7 1/21 2/4 2/18 3/4 63.10 42.80Federated Federated 15.8 396675 60.95 4.16 29.26 19.97Foot Foot Locker Locker 17.5 78032 28.74 1.49 25.72 18.12Gap Gap 16.8 269126 21.59 0.30 14.80 7.35Goody’s Goody's 19.8 3542 9.38 0.02 9.15 3.85Gottschalks Gottschalks 20.9 1822 8.52 -0.23 WWDSTOCK INDEX JUMPS 3% 19.58 11.58Guess Guess 23.2 16016 15.78 1.10 NEW YORK — The merger of Federated Department Stores Inc. and May Department Stores Co., combined with 3.09 1.15Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 199 1.25 -0.01 28.82 13.85Hot Hot Topic Topic 23.6 84029 22.76 1.19 February same-store sales results that were higher than expected, jolted retail stocks higher last week. 47.14 31.10J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 20.0 201229 46.84 1.84 The WWD Composite Stock Index finished the week up 3 percent to close at 1,175.53, a level not seen since late 119.69 30.00Kmart Kmart 38.6 104929 105.01 8.33 November. Comparatively, the Index closed at 1,141.65 the previous week. The S&P 500 inched up 0.9 percent to close 54.10 39.59Kohl’s Kohl's 24.4 242035 53.30 5.50 27.89 18.34Limited Limited Brands Brands 17.2 91463 24.45 1.02 at 1,222.12 from 1,211.37. The Dow Jones Industrial Average closed at 10,940.55, its highest level in four years. 36.78 23.04May May Dept. Dept. Stores Stores 20.2 684860 36.15 0.80 The strength of February comps results took analysts by surprise and raised retailers’ expectations for the spring 28.07 11.75Mothers Mothers Work Work 19.0 1023 13.86 -0.90 and summer seasons. 76.78 47.48Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus 16.7 12172 74.24 2.24 24.41 14.76New New York York & & Co. Co. - 9440 20.46 3.46 Affluent consumers continued to propel luxury stores, with Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue all 54.69 34.85Nordstrom Nordstrom 19.1 61827 53.91 0.94 posting same-store sales boosts of more than 7 percent. 28.81 17.25Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 20.0 160720 27.98 2.39 And the specialty segment beat out department stores and mass retailers, with an average 6.9 percent comp increase 46.88 38.36Regis Regis 16.7 12277 40.37 0.38 9.70 6.02Retail Retail Ventures Ventures 24.5 1879 7.41 -0.02 for the month. “Clearly, the teen retailers posted the most eye-popping comps for the month,” (American Eagle was up 31.85 20.95Ross Ross Stores Stores 23.3 107755 30.41 2.44 32.4 percent and Abercrombie & Fitch gained 19 percent, for example), Brian J. Tunick, a retail analyst with J.P. Morgan 17.92 11.61Saks Saks 44.6 82843 15.02 -0.46 55.90 31.21Sears Sears 32.9 156984 51.86 1.93 Chase & Co. said in a research note. “Gap and Old Navy, as well as Express appear to be the donors of some of that share.” 20.49 12.14ShopKo ShopKo 13.0 9284 18.09 0.52 Joseph Teklits, a retail analyst with Wachovia Capital Markets LLC, noted that Gap, Old Navy and Express didn’t 42.50 31.22Stage Stage Stores Stores 13.9 5738 40.34 1.90 just miss out on a strong sales month, but a record-setting one. 22.83 11.51Stein Stein Mart Mart 30.0 10163 21.83 0.96 14.08 7.57Syms Syms - 695 13.58 -0.07 “February’s 12.3 percent increase was the teen subsector’s best monthly result in five years,” Teklits said in a 39.82 24.11Ta Talbotslbots 17.2 36589 32.20 4.28 research report on Friday. “Teen retail in February accelerated to a level that was almost triple its [fiscal year] 2004 54.14 40.03Tar Targetget 25.1 206037 52.39 1.02 average increase.” —Ross Tucker 26.82 20.64TJX TJX Cos. 19.0 115426 24.75 0.55 6.69 1.77United United Retail Retail Group Group - 2113 6.01 0.21 48.47 20.80Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 43.6 72360 45.17 3.32 61.31 51.08Wa Wal-Martl-Mart 21.9 616466 53.10 1.61 9.18 0.69We Wett Seal Seal - 126626 3.65 0.65 6.75 1.95Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather 35.2 12469 4.12 0.92 31.30 24.59Zale Zale 14.4 20104 30.23 0.34 VENDORS 56.31 41.61Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 25.0 15924 51.90 -0.54 46.65 35.19A Avonvon 23.9 86528 42.40 -0.22 26.76 20.60Benetton Benetton 33.0 328 23.60 -1.05 37.35 20.16Cherokee Cherokee 19.6 3490 36.28 0.12 59.95 35.98Coach Coach 34.3 86408 59.50 2.85 62.18 50.00Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 16.5 8851 56.78 0.60 26.50 17.60Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden - 4751 26.13 0.78 49.34 38.84Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 24.0 68679 43.00 -1.15 32.37 21.26Fossil Fossil 15.3 41466 26.21 0.31 10.89 5.69G-III G-III 386.0 114 7.49 -0.60 43.20 32.77IFF IFF 18.1 14346 41.92 0.36 33.36 11.32Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 18.4 3069 15.49 1.09 40.00 31.61Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 13.5 54000 33.28 0.97 45.10 28.00Kellwood Kellwood 10.4 14453 29.25 0.60 37.39 24.66Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 16.1 6474 28.84 -0.25 43.82 32.09Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 14.3 58107 40.83 -1.67 4.44 2.67Mossimo Mossimo 23.1 232 3.86 -0.15 19.80 12.99Movado Movado 18.1 3674 19.80 0.45 92.43 65.81Nike Nike 21.0 69252 87.60 0.35 2.65 0.46Novel Novel Denim Denim - 0 1.19 0.00 47.50 33.34Oxford Oxford 14.6 9472 36.76 0.88 29.95 18.20Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 9.2 2197 22.95 0.35 SM 29.95 16.45Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 123.0 7502 28.33 0.65 FACTORING BY DESIGN 42.83 31.01Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 16.5 15710 40.31 0.79 34.58 19.25Quiksilver Quiksilver 23.1 28015 34.25 2.43 45.99 31.25Reebok Reebok 14.2 31380 45.28 1.30 3.55 1.96Revlon Revlon - 31797 2.49 0.05 19.78 15.60Russell Russell 12.7 8392 18.62 0.22 2.70 0.71Ta Tarrantrrant - 3014 1.50 -0.23 18.25 8.47To Tommymmy Hilfiger Hilfiger 9.1 14749 10.88 0.08 14.13 0.65Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 149.0 52787 13.83 2.83 60.74 42.55VF VF Corp. Corp. 14.0 27773 60.20 0.46 25.84 17.51W Warnacoarnaco 23.9 49833 24.59 0.42

Weekly % Changes Ask us for a WWDStock Market Index (ending March 4) Factoring By Design Plan. Call Howard Moore, Largest Gainers Close Change Senior Vice President Wilsons Leather 4.12 28.75 at 212-273-2988 True Religion 13.83 25.73 Composite: Retailers: Vendors: 1175.53 1129.39 1448.25 Wet Seal 3.65 21.67 New York & Co. 20.46 20.35 Bebe 32.76 15.68 A DIVISION OF IDBBANK Empire State Building 33.88 37.37 7.80 Largest Losers Close Change 350 Fifth Avenue, NY 10118 Tarrant 1.50 -13.29 G-III 7.49 -7.42 Mothers Work 13.86 -6.10 Benetton 23.60 -4.26 IDBBank is a registered service mark of Israel Discount Bank of New York. Index base of 100 is keyed to Liz Claiborne 40.83 -3.93 Total assets exceed $8 billion. MEMBER FDIC closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. 32 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 Saks Reveals Probe as P

Continued from page one will chart out a seasonal plan with a department store. Saks said it has informed the Securities and It could say you buy X amount of merchandise and if Exchange Commission about its internal investigation you have a 90 percent sell-through, you don’t get mark- of the markdown allowances and that the SEC has down money. With 80 percent sell-through, we’ll give opened an informal inquiry of its own. you a 5 percent discount, and 50 percent sell-through, Chargebacks and markdowns long have been a major you get X amount of markdown dollars. bone of contention between vendors and retailers, and “Some vendors keep extremely close to the retailers. Saks’ almost unprecedented decision to repay vendors They have merchandisers in the buyer’s office once a could force the issue out into the open. week looking at sales and stocks. Vendors are adding The news of the investigation came as Saks Inc. re- more merchandisers to monitor the business. Years ago, ported income for the fourth quarter ended Jan. 29 of there weren’t as many.” $94.8 million, or 67 cents a diluted share, versus $80.6 Said another source: “Some stores work the mark- million, or 56 cents, a gain of 17.6 percent over the same down money monthly, others could be quarterly, or year-ago period. Sales for the quarter rose 4.9 percent seasonally, or not at all. There is no secret thing that to $2.07 billion from $1.97 billion. goes on.” The impropriety revealed by Saks on Friday report- Another executive said retailers can book charges to edly occurred in the bridge area of Saks Fifth Avenue. vendors in funny ways, and have been known to play Saks Inc. would not confirm that, but said it occurred in games with sales numbers and vendor agreements that one merchandising division of SFA. may not have been in writing at the end of the selling It’s also believed that Onward Kashiyama USA is season. With Saks, some unnamed vendors wondered among the vendors getting paid back. The vendor, which whether the bridge area chargebacks were related to supplied Kors merchandise to Saks, has sued the retail- warehouse and logistic issues. er for $9,275,643 for “substantial deductions and credits “Bridge is where the big support dollars come from. which were not allowed under the terms of the agree- Companies like Ellen Tracy have huge volumes of busi- ment,” according to legal papers. Saks would not com- ness with stores like Saks,” said the executive. At Saks, ment on the litigation. bridge is believed to be the biggest category in ready-to- Meanwhile, Saks said it will cooperate with the SEC wear. Key labels include Ellen Tracy and Dana inquiry. A majority of these improper collections oc- Buchman, which are both part of Liz Claiborne; DKNY, curred during the company’s 2000, 2001 and 2002 fiscal part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton; Eileen years and a lesser amount occurred during the 1999 and Fisher; David Meister, and Lafayette 148. 2003 fiscal years. None occurred in 2004. Fred Wilson One consultant said, “I suspect Saks was not doing has been chairman and chief executive officer of SFA anything that was dishonest. I think it’s more about put- for the past year, succeeding Christina Johnson, who ting undue pressure on vendors and [buyers] coming was ceo from February 2000 to October 2003. She suc- back to vendors for more money, even more than what ceeded Philip Miller. Saks did not lay blame on any ex- they previously stipulated.” ecutives, but did say its investigation could lead to ac- The practice of squeezing vendors stems from retail- tions against some personnel. The investigation is ex- ers’ corporate offices setting financial goals and leaving pected to be completed by the end of this month. it up to buyers, divisionals and general merchandisers, Saks also is correcting $31.6 million in accounting er- as well as the ceo and president, to negotiate with ven- rors related to leased departments in its stores. Among dors to achieve the targets. Buyers generally don’t the leased departments important to SFA are Louis arrange margin agreements on their own. Vuitton and Christian Dior. For the period from fiscal Another source said that, in the formation of margin 1999 through the third quarter of fiscal 2004, the total agreements, vendors are under “extreme duress….You estimated impact will be to reduce reported pretax in- either sign up, or you’re out. They could have an agree- come by $31.6 million, including an approximately $10 ment, but if business ends up worse than expected with million increase in previous impairment charges. explain this, they sent me $716,000 with no explana- margins at 35 percent instead of 40, retailers go back The situation at Saks could open a can of worms in tion,” he added. and ask for the other five points.” the industry and put more retailers and their margin Owen said Saks took various discounts, including an Hiroaki Sumi, president and ceo of Onward and markdown money agreements on notice, and under 8/10 discount, “even when they paid nine months after Kashiyama U.S.A., said Friday that Kors merchandise the watchful eye of the SEC. These practices fall under deliveries.” The 8/10 policy enables a retailer to take an had been selling well at Saks. “Sales were good, but as the umbrella of chargebacks, a widespread practice 8 percent discount if it pays the vendor within 10 days. time passed and this markdown issue came up, it was where retailers charge vendors for a variety of things, Owen said he had a conference with Justice Ira impossible to tell. We thought it was going well, but generally related to strictly complying with packaging, Gammerman last Wednesday in the New York County Saks said otherwise because of the extent of the mark- shipping and delivery-date agreements. However, new Supreme Court, and a decision to mediate the dispute downs.” government rules of full disclosure require that mark- was reached. “As of Wednesday, Saks was pleading ig- Vendors were surprised by Saks’ admission. down money has to be taken and charged to the vendor norant of what this case was about,” said Owen. The “My God,” said Bud Konheim, chairman and ceo of in the year the retailer bought the merchandise. judge on several occasions ordered that Saks provide Nicole Miller. “Whatever caused Saks to do this is at “We live in more stringent times,” said one competi- Onward Kashiyama with the documents on how it de- work in the other stores and you’re going to see the tor of Saks. termined the markdowns, but Saks never delivered, other shoe fall. It’s in Saks’ best interest to make sure Christopher T. Owen, attorney for Onward claimed Owen. the other guys get caught if they’re getting caught. This Kashiyama, which held the Kors license from 1995 to Saks executives declined to comment on the lawsuit. can’t be Saks alone. Come on, get real.” 2003, believes his client’s suit sparked the Saks admis- Some sources said ‘kiting’, or tacking on charge- Konheim speculated that Saks took markdown al- sion. Onward filed a complaint against Saks on May 3 backs to unsuspecting resources at the end of a season, lowances without authorization. This involves retailers over excessive markdown demands and Saks answered is not unusual in retail. Hypothetically, a retailer “bor- delaying payments, and adjusting them later, based on it a month later, denying the allegations and requesting rows” a large sum from a vendor to meet its margin sell-throughs. This forces the vendor to go back to the the complaint be dismissed. Onward ended its Kors goal, and says it will make it up to the vendor by pur- retailer and negotiate for the rest of their payment. agreement in 2003. While Owen contended that chasing a certain amount of inventory the next year. Generally, it’s larger manufacturers, such as Jones “Onward Kashiyama is not a corporation that likes to But the following year comes and the retailer reneges Apparel Group, Liz Claiborne Inc. and Kellwood Co., sue companies,” he said what prompted the suit against on the agreement. that end up funding markdown allowances. Executives Saks was the way the retailer took markdown money When it comes to negotiating margin agreements and at these companies declined to comment. without giving any explanations. markdown money, the bridge area, as one merchant The vendors had to contend with higher-than-expect- “They told us we had a debit balance,” said Owen. said, is “very entrepreneurial” compared with other ed markdowns during the fourth quarter, when full- He said he would get invoices for payments, and there product categories, where there is little or no room for price sales were not as robust as expected. would be large numbers for markdowns. “Some were le- bargaining. Designer collections are said to leave virtu- “The quarter was more difficult and promotional gitimate for advertising. I don’t deny a portion was legit- ally no room; accessories are a very high-margin busi- than we anticipated it would be, causing us to liquidate imate, but when the markdown numbers became so ness to begin with so little need for negotiating is usual- additional excess inventory and fund more mark- large we had a deficit balance, we felt we were getting ly seen; cosmetics companies run their own areas in de- downs,” said Claiborne’s chairman and ceo, Paul nowhere with them.” partment stores, and men’s wear tends to be a mixed Charron, on a conference call with Wall Street Owen explained that from 1999 to 2003, “it got to the bag, said the merchant. “You are not going to get any- Wednesday. “This resulted in a gross-profit rate which point where we were delivering millions of dollars thing from Chanel or Prada.” was about 100 basis points below our original expecta- worth of merchandise, and they’d send us a bill of what The merchant described a wide variety of deals, such tions, but was necessary to ensure that our inventory we owed them.” He said when Onward would ask for an as offering 2 percent off purchases to use for markdown was in good shape heading into spring.” Among explanation of the markdowns, “it was met with ab- or advertising dollars; sometimes a vendor will take a Claiborne’s divisions are Ellen Tracy, Dana Buchman, solute silence.” He said that Onward asked for $9.3 mil- return of excess merchandise, or an RTV, meaning re- Juicy Couture and Lucky Jeans. lion, “but our subsequent investigation showed improp- turn to vendor, or a combination of both. Jones and Kellwood were each hit hard by markdowns er charges were between $12 million and $13 million “There is a lot of handshaking done, but then there during the fourth quarter and had to pre-announce that from 1999 to 2003….Once I sent them a letter to please can also be written agreements. In some cases, vendors earnings would not come up to expectations. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 33 WWD.COM Profits Rise 17.6 Percent

Asked about the markdown situation, Mickey Klein, situation with leased operations accounting, the compa- In discussing its fourth-quarter results by division, vice president of Elie Tahari, said: “We do monitor it ny will revise its financial statements for fiscal 1999 Saks Inc. said same-store sales at Saks department very carefully.” However, regarding Saks: “We have a through the third quarter of fiscal 2004. stores grew by 1.1 percent, while operating income was great relationship with them.” One vendor said on Friday in reaction to the Saks flat with last year’s performance. At SFAE, comps rose Rick Roberts, ceo of Cynthia Steffe, also said he has- announcement: “I never heard of that option [to reim- by 8.4 percent, but excess clearance-related markdowns n’t had a markdown problem with Saks Fifth Avenue. burse]. The usual practice is, two years down the road, led to a decline in gross margin rate, the company said. “We have a wonderful relationship with them. They The operating income at SFAE declined by $6 million, have not been worse than other people. It’s been a very or 8 percent, over the prior year. easy relationship. We’ve had great sell-throughs.” The situation at Saks could open During a conference call to Wall Street, R. Brad John Idol, ceo of Michael Kors LLC, said he was not Martin, chairman and ceo of the $6.4 billion Saks Inc., aware of any excess markdown money that was paid by a can of worms in the industry said, “The quality of the execution of our customer serv- vendors to Saks. “Clearly, there are situations where and put more retailers and their ice and our store operating strategies and focus at the manufacturers give markdown money to various retail- store level at [the department store group] was very ers. Hopefully, it’s done in an honest way between the margin and markdown money solid in 2004.” retailer and the manufacturer.” As for Saks Fifth Avenue, Martin said the division Allan Ellinger, partner at Marketing Management agreements on notice, and under last year accomplished a “solid foundation for a very Group, noted, “Very often a store or a buyer will put the bright future in this exceptional franchise.” He added vendor’s payment on what’s called ‘buyer’s hold’ and the watchful eye of the SEC. that merchandise assortments are being strengthened they’re going to hold that payment as ransom until they ne- by offering a more “consistent matrix of brands across gotiate, if they need to negotiate a markdown allowance.” the best Saks stores by making focused investments in He described Saks’ intention to reimburse vendors the retailer tells you they forgot to charge you for high-growth-opportunity businesses, such as our explo- as “an amazing precedent.” something and that you now owe a certain amount.” sive growth in contemporary apparel and designer ap- Saks has been aggressive in the pursuit of markdown The same vendor called chargebacks a “profit center” parel, women’s shoes and handbags and continually in- money, but not as aggressive as Federated or May, said for retailers. troducing new vendors and designers to the Saks Fifth Ellinger. “This is going to give our industry the vendor Shares of Saks Inc. closed Friday at $15.02, down 58 Avenue offering.” structure courage to get out there and fight for their cents, in trading on the New York Stock Exchange. The For 2004, income fell by 23.9 percent to $60.9 million, money,” predicted Ellinger. “There is now a modicum of intraday low was $14.45. The trading volume Friday was or 42 cents a diluted share, from $80 million, or 56 cents, hope.” Saks Inc. on Friday posted a fourth-quarter prof- 2.94 million shares, while the average number of shares in 2003. Sales for the year gained 6.3 percent to $6.44 it, but due to its ongoing internal investigation and its that typically change hands is 1.17 million. billion from $6.06 billion. 34 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005

Int’l private label apparel co. seeks college grads for: ACCOUNT MANAGER Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Requires 3-5 years’ intimate No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: apparel exp, strong interper- Sales Rep - Beads (937) 898-2975 sonal, communication and Highly experienced & reliable Sales Rep with a 15 year history in bead sales computer skills. Must be detail seeks lines. E-mail: [email protected] oriented with knowl of product development and sourcing, garment construction and costing. Some travel nec. ASSISTANT TO GREAT OPPTY PRODUCT MANAGER Salesperson - Well est’d NY importer of costume jewelry/access seeks exp’d. You will work closely w/buyers self-starter w/proven following to sell & overseas office/factory in all volume retailers across the country. phases of production incl fit Base + comm. Mr. B T. 212-594-4455 F.212-594-4466 email: [email protected] samples, fabric/trim approval, lab dips & order processing. Liaison w/design on initial con- cept &product development. Chinese speaking preferred. Salary commensurate w/exp. Fax resume specifying PC skills & Salary Requirements to HR Mgr: 212-851-8029. Only resumes w/salary reqs will be considered. No phone calls. EOE M/F/D/V

ADMIN SINCE 1967 Designer W-I-N-S-T-O-N Associate Designer Design House APPAREL STAFFING Large childrenswear company is seeking Rapidly growing prestigious Luxury DESIGN * SALES * MERCH adesigner to do infant/toddler boys. Design House seeks energetic team play- ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Must be able to sketch, and do prints. ers to help us expand. Exp. in High End (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 Knowledge of product development a Gold/Silver Jewelry & Accessories rqr’d. plus. Will work closely with entire de- sign team. Individual must have good Senior Art Director ALLOCATOR-SHIPPING MAC skills and must be proficient Oversees all brand visuals and presenta- with Photoshop/Illustrator. tion w/ thorough knwldg of graphic ACCOUNTS PAYABLE Fax resume 212-239-2766 designs, fashion/jewelry, trends & Contemporary design co has 2 pos. technology req’rd. Must provide creative Allocator must have min 2 yrs exp w/ Designer services for multi-brand & categories Apparel billing sys & AP must have min 2 yrs exp w/QB. Must be neat, Graphic Designer VP Marketing & PR org. & accurate. Pls e-mail resume: Seeks accmplsh’d professional to lead [email protected] LuLu Handbags all brand communications within multi- LuLu, a fast paced, fashion forward category design house. Must lead all Analyst handbag manufacturer, is looking for a advertising, marketing & PR directions. graphic artist/ designer. Candidate VP Private Label PATTERN/SAMPLES NAUTICA must be proficient in Illustrator and Oversees brand devlpmnt for Luxury 246 Mulberry Street-Nolita Photoshop. Candidate must have a Accessories Prvte Label. Manage all rela- 2,000 sq. ft Retail Space Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 RETAIL ANALYST minimum of 3 years experience in the tionships w/ high-end client base and Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 fashion merchandising and design has proven track record. Patterns/Samples/Beading Responsibilities incl. sales & assortment industry. Experience with junior product www.dumann.com planning, OTB, retail sales tracking. is desirable. Position requires research Jewelry Designer Duplicates Cut & Sew 2-3 yrs apparel exp as a buyer/planner. For Space in Garment Center and development of product lines from Design handmade Gold & Silver Fast & Full Service- Production Strong analytical, problem solving and concept to final execution. Individual jewelry/Diamond collection. Technical Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Excel skills. Competitive salary and must have knowledge of textiles and Sketching, manipulating, designs /mock- 212-880-0414 medical benefits package. EOE handbag construction. Salary will com- ups, technical development packages for Draper/Prod. Patternmaker Email: [email protected] mensurate with experience. turnover to Model Makers. For new "Tween" 7-16 division of es- Showroom / Office / Retail PATTERNS, SAMPLES, tablished social occasion firm. Must Please email resume: [email protected] We find you space-best deal-no fee PRODUCTIONS ARTIST/Designer-3+ yrs exp in licensed/ Handbag Designer have experience with young girl dresses. sublet 525 7th/ready All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. generic Boys 4-18 artwk/pref back Designer Designer must understand design speci- Fax resumes to: 240-352-4830 Garment Center Real Estate Call Sherry 212-719-0622. pack/bag exp/be fast on MAC. $50-60K fications & understands trend, hard- Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Les Richards Agcy; Call (212) 221-0870 ware, leather, and textile and handbag NAUTICA development. EDI Coord. to $40K. Minimum 1 year PATTERNS, SAMPLES, experience in EDI for apparel compa- Showrooms & Lofts ASSISTANT Graphics Designer Home Designer ny required. Edison, NJ location. Call BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS PRODUCTIONS 973- 564-9236 JARAL Agency Work with designers to develop graphics. Designer must have a strong sense of Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Full servcie shop to the trade. PATTERN-MAKER color knowledge and familiarity with all ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Develop tee shirt graphics based on sea - Sportswear manufacturer seeks well- sonal concepts. Research emerging trends. types of home materials including metal, PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD organized assistant pattern-maker. Provide innovative graphic designs. wood, textile and table top. Must Get Started in Fashion E-mail resumes [email protected] Photoshop and Illustrator exp. a must. understand design specifications and RECEPTIONIST - SALES High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- construction details. Seeking ambitious recent graduate to sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 E-mail resume to [email protected] Bookkeeper A/R, A/P to 35K. Min 1 yr. NO PHONE CALLS. EOE work with up & coming Cut & Sew Knit exp req’d. Mdtn co. Excel. Word. Private Label Designer Design all types of jewelry and accesso- Co. Friendly surroundings. Computer Talented Design Team Customer phone skills. Asst. at front Designer/Product Devel $125-150K. skills req’d. Please call or Fax resume to: desk. Good growth oppty. Call 973-564- ries including semi-precious stones, Current exp in young mens denim bot- working with various metals for specific Tel: 212-730-0101 / Fax: 212-730-2556 Available for Freelance 9236 JARAL Agency toms. Strong knowledge of denim Exp’d in Better to Lux Market. All classifi- lines within Jewelry Merchandising and washes. Travel to China wash facilities. client’s specifications. cations of Ladies’ Sprtswr, Dresses, Knits, Branded Co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy etc. Covering Premier Vision, 7th Ave CAD Artist Adobe All Candidates must be proficient in GRAPHIC ARTIST Loc. Call 917.359.8767 or 212.564.6254. Tech Packs/Specs; 5 years exp. req’d. Designer Microsoft Outlook, Excel and Word. Weareseeking an experienced, creative Please E-mail resumes to: Must have minimum of 5 years experi- individual with strong girls background. [email protected] Senior Designer ence. Good communication skills, organi- Individual will work closely with our zation and attention to details are need- design staff, translating concepts and CAD supervisor to $100K. Current exp LuLu Handbags ed to be successful. ideas to create and develop prints. in mens or womens. Proficient on LuLu, a fast paced, fashion forward Working knowledge of Illustrator and handbag manufacturer, is looking for a Pls send resume for all above positions: Photoshop necessary. U4IA, Illustrator, Photoshop. 1411 [email protected] Broadway. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy senior level handbag designer. Minimum Please fax resume to (212) 239-2766 5 years experience required. Individual Pls indicate expertise & salary range. must be proficient in illustrator, work- Clerical - Receptionist ing with textiles, and communicating Import Production Manager direction overseas. Individual must Movie Star, Inc., a large intimate apparel Midtown showroom seeks a team player have a proven track record of identifying w/computer skillsto assist Salespeople, manufacturer seeking an experienced trends and executing fashion forward Import Production Manager to manage answer phones, and other various duties. product.Travel is required. Salary will OFFICE SPACE SHARE E-mail: [email protected] contractors in Bangladesh, Pakistan, 501 Seventh Avenue (Corner 37th & commensurate with experience. India & China that manufacture sleep 7th Ave). Looking to share space with Please submit resume and salary wear, loungewear & daywear. Respon- est. company - women’s accessories, etc. Design Assoc -Hdbgs requirements to: [email protected] sibilities include: scheduling production, Call Orly: 212-719-9127 Need skilled sketcher with great sense Designer Sr. to $125K. Strong present resolving all contractor issues, monitoring of proportion & spec detail for leading DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION contractor shipments to meet customer fashion brand. Must have prior experi- exp in jr activewear collection. Well Showrooms - 5th Ave + Madison known midtown branded co. Call 973- Excellent opportunity with the rapidly deliveries, price negotiations, etc. Min- ence in handbags. Hand sketching is growing lifestyle brand, Tory by TRB. imum five years experience, travel, good Lofts - 32-40th Wood Fl. + Light OK. Fantastic working environment. 564-9236 JARAL Fashion Agency. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Seeking a seasoned professional to over computer & communication skills (MS Search- www.manhattanoffices.com Fax resume to #212-564-2882 or email Designer to 125K current exp in moderate see all production related issues for the Work, Excel) & capable of working in a [email protected] priced women’s full fashion sweaters + Tory by TRB Collection. Experienced fast paced deadline sensitive environment. knits. Well known branded co. Proficient individual must be a team player able Apparel experience a must. Designer $80-$90K. Current experi- in Illustrator. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY to liaise between design, merchandising, Please fax resume to: HR (212) 213-4925 ence in missy denim bottoms. Well sales and Hong Kong office. Responsi- known branded company. Call 973-564- bilities include establishing process for 9236 JARAL Fashion Agency. DESIGNER costing, purchasing and delivery track- Import/Traffic Mgr Asst Jamaica, Queens, for lease-approx Watch experience preferred, but not es- ing. Must be detail oriented. Must have Large wearing apparel firm seeks exp’d 40,000 sq. ft. fully equipped garment Designer $80-90K. Current exp in young sential. Strong knowledge of women’s knowledge of garment construction and Assistant to Import/Traffic Manager. warehouse with racking system, a/c offices mens + boys tops. Woven, knit. Skater, fashion. Trend forward. Knowledge of a strong ability to analyze and solve Must have exp with shipments from & loading docks. Available immediately. surfer fashion vision. Must hang w/ We’re mid-tier & mass distribution channels. problems. Please send resume including overseas, U.S. Customs entry process, Call landlord 516-997-2442 First, Apco, Farugi, Point Zero, Quicksil- Salary commensurate with experience. salary requirements, attn. Lisa Harris at : inventory allocation & warehousing. ver, etc. Mdtn co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Email resume to: [email protected] FAX: (212) 683-3876 Fax resume to: 212 921 5341 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 35

INFANT ACCESSORY COMPANY ... e x p a n d i n g Join our team ! ! ! Merchandiser Account Manager Seeking dynamic new born-layette merchandiser to join our Intimate apparel company in NJ is looking for an exceptional team. You must be able to identify emerging trends & have Account Mgr. Candidate must have at least 5 yrs exp in a proven track record from design development to retail sell garment sales & manufacturing in the mid & mass markets. This through. Responsible for merchandising, trend direction, directing position is responsible for logistics, design, product development, design team, retail market research, strategic planning & P&L accountability, budgeting, staff supervision, & growing our presentations. Min. 5 yrs. exp. Market contacts & knowledge business w/a major account. We are a global, publicly held Co. of Mac a plus. offering generous compensation packages, annual bonuses, 401(k), health insurance, & opportunity for growth. EOE Designer Email resume to: [email protected] Seeking strong creative layette designer with thorough knowledge of graphic design, fashion/textiles, and trends. Must be well SALESPERSON organized, have excellent flat sketching skills, computer literate Accessories Sales Established women’s accessory w/knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator. Responsibilities include manufacturer looking for an in-house developing prints as well as bodies Min 3-5 yrs. exp req’d. salesperson or outside sales rep. Must have established accounts. Please fax resume: 212-947-7815 or Production email [email protected] Seeking a highly motivated and detail-oriented individual to oversee all aspects of layette production. Duties include daily Luxury lingerie/RTW co seeks motivated team player with excellent computer communication with design, follow-up with overseas factories on CASSIS® skills and ability to analyze numbers. samples, lab dips, accessories, delivery tracking & spreadsheets. NATIONAL ACCOUNT Must be detail oriented and organized Strong communication skills req’d. Must have good working with great managerial skills. Benefits EXEC/SALES & very competitive salary. Please fax knowledge of Microsoft Outlook, Word & Excel. Min 3 yrs exp. High-end designer fine jewelry brand resume: (646) 349-4506 No phone calls. seeks Nat’l. Sales Rep w/knowledge of Team players only . E-mail resume to: jewelry & independent luxury retailers. SALES PRO [email protected] or fax: 212 695 9624 Leading Fashion Accessories, Sleepwear, Footwear, Active client base/list a must. Established domestic intimate apparel/ Home Products and Novelty Co. has opportunities Email resumes to: [email protected] sleepwear company currently seeks sales professionals for all territories. available in NYC showroom Candidate must have existing customers • Sales Execs Exp with following in dept., specialty stores, Dickies Girl NYC and well-established contacts with de- Excellent opportunity for growth. partment stores, specialty chain stores SKAGEN DESIGNS mass market, closeouts. Detailed oriented, computer literate. Road & Showroom Sales w/ car contact: and boutiques. Please fax resumes to: Watches & Accessories • Product/ Mgrs Work w/design & sales w/understanding of [email protected] (323) 585-7465 development, production, spec/tech. Exp. domestic & Sales Pro We need qualified individuals for the following positions: overseas, conception thru delivery. Updated missy sportswear co. seeks • Sales&Production Asst Good communication, follow-up, EXCITING exp’d sales person to maintain and SALES grow business, aggressive w/ ability to • Director of Sales - Reno, NV organizational, computer & admin skills, detail & fashion OPPORTUNITY!!! cultivate new accounts. • International Sales Manager - Reno or New York oriented Established ACCESSORY company seeks Fax resume to: 212-391-1530 an aggressive salesperson with a min. or email: [email protected] • Account Executives - NY, Texas & South East • Graphic Artists Hosiery, novelty product design, packaging. of 3-5 years experience. Mass/Mid-tier ex- MAC, Illustrator & Photoshop skills perience required. Product knowledge of SALES PRO WTD. PRODUCT MANAGEMENT • Receptionist Ideal for new grad. We premote from within. industry is necessary. Some travel re- •Product Development Manager - Watches - Reno quired. Salary PLUS commission. Please Better missy sweater & knitwear co. seeks Fax resume w/sal.req. 212-202-4837 Email resume to: [email protected] PRO with min. 5 yrs. exp. with Dept. & •Product Development Mgr - Accessories / Leather - Reno Specialty stores. Please send resume to: Indicate position in subject line Attn. Charman @ Fax: (212) 302-7672 Relocation / Insurance / 401k / Vacation / holidays Executive Sales Assistant e-mail resume, salary history, references & job interest to: To handle Majors. Fluent in Target, THE WORKS TEXTILE STUDIO [email protected] Production Openings Walmart and Kohls. Extremely organized, London studio looking for NY Sales Inventory Control Mgr-Activewear-L.I. Loc SECRETARY detail oriented and a multi tasker. person. Salary plus Commission. Equal Opportunity Employer Production Coordin-Walmart & CTL Bkgrd Accessories co. seeks exp’d individual Computer skills and power point a Candidate must be self motivated. Production Coordin-Cut N Sew Knits to assist Sales Manager. Must be detail must. Please include salary require- Please forward resume to: Sourcing Coordin-BiLingual-Sptswr Mfr oriented, computer literate and able to ments with cover sheet and fax to: E-mail: [email protected] Jewelry See Other Listings @ write good business letters. Import exp 212-967-2420 attn: Denise Grossman or Fax: +44 20 8986 2731 PRODUCTION ASST. www.ApparelStaffing.com aplus. Fax resume: 917-351-1238 or Or Fax Resume to: (212) 302-1161 email: [email protected] VP Sales to $175K+ Merchandiser/Designer Leading children’s apparel company Missy activewr/daywr. Mass to dept. stores Major fashion industry mfr of accessories seeks a highly motivated and detail- Executive Sales Asst Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 and costume jewelry seeks designer w/ oriented individual to oversee all as- PRODUCTION & Major Accessory Company seeks indi- [email protected] min. 2 yrs. exp. in junior trends. Must pects of production approvals to ensure Showroom Manager vidual with requirements: excellent have exp. in overseas sourcing & domestic on-time delivery thru daily communi- SOURCING MANAGER Required for bridal designers Michelle computer skills, showroom/sample/line suppliers; dealing w/mass market, dept cation between design and overseas Leading children’s apparel importer Roth and Henry Roth. Minimum 5 yrs. list maintenance, sales, communicating and specialty stores and be able to excel vendors. Responsibilities include: seeks a highly motivated, detail-oriented direct experience. Responsibilities with accts., follow up, sending samples, in a fast paced environment. follow-up with overseas factories on individual. The candidate should have include day to day running of the show- etc. Please send resume to: Fax resume w/sal. req. 212-202-4837 samples, lab dips, accessories, delivery amin of 5-10 years experience with over- room, trunk show & trade show prepa- [email protected] or fax: 212-947-4439 tracking & spreadsheets. Strong com- seas production in the children’s apparel rations, customer service & appointment munication skills req’d. Must have industry. Sourcing experience is required. scheduling. Strong communication Boutique Salesperson good working knowledge of Microsoft Must be available to travel as necessary. skills, detail oriented &exceptional Madison Avenue famous Fur Designer’s Outlook, Word & Excel. E-mail resume organizational skills. Email resumes to: Jewelry Sales / Inside Luxury jewelry designer Judith Ripka Will be responsible for all aspects from boutique is seeking a Salespeson. Can- and salary requirements ATTN: PA sourcing, thru approvals to final delivery. [email protected] Midtown wholesale Jewelry Co. seeks a didate should have minimum 3 years seeks a motivated individual for the [email protected] dynamic personality w/excellent commu- Product Development department. Must have good communication skills experience in Luxury Fashion Boutique. and ability to maintain daily contact nication & computer skills. Experience a Knowledge of PC and account a plus. Candidate must be knowledgeable in must. Some travel req’d. Terrific benefits! jewelry manufacturing, detail oriented with overseas vendors. Must have a Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: working knowledge of Microsoft Out- E-mail resume & salary requirements to: 212-308-5454 / [email protected] and possess the ability to analyze and Production Coordinator [email protected] Growing NYC based luxury handbag co. look, Word & Excel. Email resume and SPEC TECHNICIAN solve production problems. Multi- Leading childrenswear importer of girls tasking is a must! Responsibilities in- seeks individual with a minimum of 3 yrs. salary requirements ATTN: PM experience in production. Responsibilities [email protected] &boys 0/6x knit and woven sportswear clude communication with vendors, seeks spec technician. The right candi- tracking first samples, the set up of consist of weekly tracking of bulk ma- MILLAGE INC. terials, placing orders, analysis with re- date must have 3-5 years experience new production and preliminary pric- and knowledge of patternmaking and Seeks Professional Sales Associates ing. A minimum of 3 years experience gard to meeting delivery and production PR Opportunity Nationwide. Experienced Sales Reps deadlines, & a strong ability to analyze garment construction. Responsibilities in jewelry production in required. Seeking an In-house Manager of PR for include spec, grading & fit approvals. presently selling established and Dept. Please fax resume to 212-244-3188. & solve production problems. Must be Contemporary Apparel Mfr. Responsible store connected. Nationwide qualified extremely detailed and have excellent E-mail resume & salary req’s ATTN: ST for liaison w/fashion press & all consumer [email protected] candidates must have solid relationships communication & organizational skills. with upscale jewelry and watch accounts. Retail Careers OPERATIONS COORDINATOR requests including where-to-buy informa- Knowledge of leather a plus. Opportunity tion. Requirements: 4 years experience Must be detail-oriented, possess strong Join the leader in luxury retail! Our INTERNAT’L. LIAISON//$50 to 60K+ to grow. Fax resumes to: (212) 343-2739 communication and follow-up skills. Newport Beach, California Fashion Island For rapidly expanding imp/manuf. of in PR; established relationships with fashion editors; excellent communica- Select Territories Available. store has undergone a renovation and Men’s and Ladies (Contemp. & Urban) TECH Artists (2) /45K+ GREAT COMMISSION! expansion that has provided amazing apparel. You will be the liaison btw NY tion and computer skills. Respond to: Box#M 1026 For major Children’s wear co. Must Please fax resume to: (213) 763-6152 opportunities! We have commissioned office and Europe & Canadian Coord. Production Coordinator have expr. doing tech packs and pro- sales associate positions in cosmetics, Large childrenswear company has posi- c/o Fairchild Publications or Email: [email protected] with design and production (samples, duction drawings, Adobe Illust. Work on Attention: Mike Massih fine apparel, men’s and women’s RTW, sketches, time plans, deliveries etc). tion available to follow up w/ Wal-Mart, 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl New York, NY 10001 either Girl’s licensed character apparel and cosmetics product specialist positions. Req: prev. expr. working w/ Internat’l. Target, JCP accts and overseas or Girl’s sleepwear. Req: 1+ years as Don’t wait - you want to be part of the offices for an apparel co. in a rel. position, factories. Must be familiar with CTL tech. artist pref. experience in above. upcoming grand re-opening! very organized, excl. comm. & PC skills. approval procedures. Bilingual in SALES-Acct Executive E-mail resume: [email protected] Please fax your resume to: E-mail resume: [email protected] Chinese/English preferred. 2-3 yrs exp. PUBLIC RELATIONS (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 212-481-1941 BEN-AMUN- Est’d fashion jewelry & (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Fax: (212) 967-8631 att: Rose In-house or freelance accessories co is expanding. We are (949) 467-3348 or call (949)467-3310 Mens/Ladies/Urban Market seeking energetic team player. Detailed E-mail: [email protected] oriented, strong follow up skills, able to Store Manager PROD’N COORD $50-$55K mng and maintain accts on all levels. Dynamic retail professional needed for PRODUCTION Tech Designer $70-90K. Current exp in Good salary, benefits, travel. fast paced well established store which Progressive handbag co seeks expd sportswear or dresses, knits or woven. Production Coord who has exp in the Fast paced and growing accessories co. Receptionist customer service. Min 1 Fax resume w/ cover letter 212-944-9625 features unique product mix and looking to fill production position. Must yr. exp as receptionist. Front desk. Assist Web PDM nec. For Philadelphia co. or email: [email protected] upscale clientele. Must have 5 years re- handbag industry dealing w/ overseas Will relocate. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. factories. Min 3 yrs out of handbags. be organized and detail-oriented. Will be in accessoreis showroom. 37th St./6th Ave. tail and 3 years managerial experience. Fax resume to Carla 201-894-1186 or communicating with overseas factories Good phone voice. Fax 973-379-1275 Agcy Lingerie and swimwear knowledge is a e-mail [email protected] on orders, samples, deliveries and prices. plus. Must have exceptional people Strong computer skills including Excel. SALES ASSISTANT KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Major apparel company seeks sales asst. skills at the customer and staff levels. Photoshop and Illustrator a big plus. RECEPTIONIST Technical designer $125-$150K. Current Ability to manage 20+ employees is Proficiency in Mandarin a must. Fast paced NYC showroom seeks a team exp in moderate priced full fashion sweat- with 1-2 years experience. Individual will work closely with VP of Sales on man- key. Comprehensive package. Product Devel/Designer Please fax resume to: (212) 730-6983 player with good phone skills & computer ers + cut & sewn knit tops. Must hang w/ Fax resume to: 212.787.9358 knowledge. Size 8 showroom model a plus. Kellwood, Liz Claiborne, Jones, etc. Can- aging retail accounts. Must have excellent follow up and computer skills. $$$$$$ Fax resume to: 240-352-4830 tonese or Mandarin bi-ling helpful, but Fashion foward accessory co Seeks Production Import Coord. to $55K. not nec. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Fax resume (212)239-2766 expd Prod Develop person w/ technical Strong knowl of construction of gar- knowledge, bkgrd negotiating prices ments nec. Current exp scheduling, Retail analyst/planner $80-90K. Current out of jr backpks & exp w/Asia travel. tracking, follow-up, dealing w/ India over- exp in Demand Management. Large mid- SALES EXECUTIVE Photoshop/ Illustrator a must!!! seas factories by computer required. town apparel co. Excel growth oply. Call Knitwear company seeks experienced Fax Resume to Carla 201-894-1186 1407 Bdwy. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. 973-564-9236 JARAL Fashion Agency Textile Cad Artist professional w/ established relationships or e-mail [email protected] Expert in Photoshop 2 + years in novelty knitwear /contemporary markets KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS exp, textile design skills a must. E-mail: [email protected] RETAIL SALES Sal + ben. Fax resume 212-947-4501 Hands-On Prod’n. Mgr. Production Manager-Asst ANALYST Proven ability; Computer skills; Complete Production Assistant Women’s belts co. seeks assistant production Apparel company seeks individual with Sales Executive-P/T process from Design to Ship & Sales, Large childrenswear company is looking manager with 2-3 yrs exp. Responsible knowledge of apparel business and Package sourcing. Quality, logistics, for orders, planning and follow up with Trim Buyer Coord to $45K. Min 2 yrs Est’d NYC prvt label kidswear co seeks costing, fittings, patterns, managerial for a production asst. to track deliveries high volume accounts. Excellent com- exp Sales Mgr for new exciting branded from overseas factories. Good computer vendors. NJ office. Great benefits! munication and Excel skills required. exp. Strong knowledge Excel, time & skills, monitor deadlines, cut down mark- Email resume & salary req: action calendars. 37th St. @ 7th Ave. line of licensed sleepwear. Must have downs, strong negotiating skills, techni- and communication skills necessary. Walmart / RetailLink exp. a must. contacts in mod/better mkt. P/T flex hrs. Fax resume 212-239-2766 [email protected] Please fax resume to: (212) 202-7897 Call 973- 564-9236 JARAL Agency cal construction. Can Travel. E-mail to: Fax resume to 212-967-2038 [email protected] 36 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 7, 2005 WWD.COM

PARIS — Alysson Paradis still feels like a stranger to today’s overheated celebrity world, but the young actress is certainly becoming its newest citizen. Critics quickly took notice of her first movie role, a juicy one, in Rodolphe Marconi’s “The Last Day.” In the film, which came out in France late last year, Paradis plays the sister of Gaspard Ulliel. She knows that role already. Alysson is the little sister of Vanessa Paradis, the actress, singer and sometime Chanel model who is the companion of . But Alysson is certainly a friendlier sibling than the mean one Ulliel had to endure in the film. There isn’t much of a family resemblance between the two sisters, either. In fact, Paradis feels separate from her contemporaries. “I have a 1930s look,” she explains, sipping tea at Le Fumoir here. Not surprisingly, the Thirties are her favorite fashion period, as well. “I like the way women looked in those days,” explains Paradis. “So perky, alive, beautiful.” Naturally, the 20-year-old would love to play in a period film, but that will have to wait. There are no corsets or flapper dresses in her next role. In the forthcoming film by Crystel Amsalem — “Quand les anges s’en mêlent” or “When Angels Get Involved” — Paradis portrays a bisexual jazz singer. The movie will first be presented at the Paris Film Festival at the end of March before a national release in France in May. She already started work last month on a third movie project, so for now, Paradis will have to put aside her favorite hobbies — painting and sewing her own clothes. “I need to do something with my hands,” she explains, nibbling on one of her nails. Perhaps she could use them to wave off all the attention she’s getting these days. “A guy said hello to me in the street the other day and I thought I met him before. But he told me he knew me because he watches television,” she says with a laugh. “I’m still naïve.” But there is one side of fame that suits her fine — wearing designer clothes at special events. “I love Chanel. I’ve done photos dressed in Chanel. It was marvelous,” she enthuses. The feeling is mutual. “She’s gifted,” raves Karl Lagerfeld, who photographed Paradis just before she cut her hair short. “She looks a little like a tiny Monica Alysson Paradis Bellucci. She is marvelous.”

Sister,Sister — Chantal Goupil eye® Me,Myself and I

Liam Neeson and Lauren Bacall Mike Nichols Mica Ertegun and Liz Smith

The salon, that melting pot of artists, poets and philosophers, was alive and well at Diane von Furstenberg’s studio Wednesday, when the designer hosted a party for Lauren Bacall and her latest book, “By Myself and Then Some,” an updated version of her 1979 tome, “By Myself.” Like any self-respecting salonnière, von Furstenberg drew in an eclectic, opinionated crowd to her Warhol-bedecked studio, including Sidney Lumet, Liz Smith, David Halberstam and Salman Rushdie, but none more vocal than Bacall herself. “I can’t answer any questions,” fired Bacall, in response to a query about her book. “It’s a party and I’m too excited.” Liam Neeson, who first met “Betty” 19 years ago in London, came out to support his longtime friend. While some may have found his latest film, “Kinsey,” shocking in its subject matter, Neeson recalled the audacity of Bacall and Bogart in “To Have and Have Not.” “To have a 40-year-old man say those things to a 19-year-old girl — you couldn’t get away with that now!” he said. Also in the crowd were von Furstenberg’s pals, Anh Duong, Alba Clemente, Ann Dexter-Jones and Charlotte Ronson. Rushdie, who knows something about older man-younger woman pairings, was also there, still high from the Diane von Furstenberg and Luca Luca (who designed his wife Padma’s ) shows he Sidney Lumet and attended during New York Fashion Week. One show he wouldn’t venture to, however, was Marc Jacobs. Diane von Furstenberg “I wouldn’t have waited an hour and a half,” he said. “It’s tailoring — not brain surgery!” ADIS PHOTO BY KARL LAGERFELD; BACALL PARTY BY STEVE EICHNER BY KARL LAGERFELD; BACALL PARTY ADIS PHOTO BY R PA