The sweet discovery A land to taste slowly

The thematic routes presented in this guide have been realized within the agreed project for the “Valorizzazione Territoriale e Salvaguardia dello spazio rurale nel circondario cremasco” (Territorial promotion and the rural environmental protection in the surroundings of Crema). The project, which sees the active participation of local governments and private operators, was set up consequently to the European planning of the EAFRD – Rural Development Policy 2007-2013. The goal we want to achieve through it isn’t therefore the revaluation of the only area of the Cremasque, whose local identity is historically determined, but its revaluation as a territory put in a wider contest – either provincial, regional or international. This general approach permits the realization of a common innovative system for the improvement and the protection of those territories, which for their particular socio-economical and environmental characteristic spot in agricultural resources their driving force. The following pages deal therefore with those themes aimed to explain the local phenomena and traditions that are strictly connected to the soil, thus favouring a global speech on the complexity of the local culture, which is mainly rural, instead of singling out a specific monument. We’d also like to point out that the itineraries presented in the guide have been traced considering the extant net of strategic routes, such as the provincial system of cycle tracks –a partnership of the Provinces of Mantua, Brescia, and . This long route could potentially give birth to a long itinerary running from the centre of the Lombard capital to the mouth of the river in the river. A slow tour onto the cycle-pedestrian tracks drawn along the banks of canals and irrigation ditches in the country of the Cremasque gives you the opportunity to discover the endemic characteristic of this environment. At the end of the route the numerous farmsteads and the particular water basins called fontanili, the important places of worship and the devotional chapels, the patrician palaces and the fortresses that permeate the area will be familiar to the visitor. Moreover, the gastronomic specialities cooked into local trattorias will give the tourist a lot of energy to start new adventures.

Gianluca Pinotti Maria Grazia Maghini Councillor of the Province of Mayor of the Common of for Agriculture, Environment, Casale Cremasco Vidolasco Hunting and Fishing

01 Tracing historical events Wide swampy lands hosting misterious primordial creatures, soldiers and leaders of soldiers of venture homed into little towered castles, and ladys and gentlemen lingering in elegant palaces set in the countryside are all ingredients of a fairytale; the modern tourist has just to entwine the numerous plots.

The sweet discovery Tracing historical events by Luciana Medici

“There was a lake …” Century A.C. the crisis of the child, thus infesting the air with visible in more than one church The territory of the Gera d’ late empire and the progressive its smelling breath. of the territories of Bergamo is delimited to the west by the depopulation of the countries and Crema, where big bestial Adda River and to the east by determined the abandon of the bones were preserved. There is the River. Today it is a Po Valley, causing the rebirth of People believed this for example a giant rib, which green flat region marked by a a wild nature that regained its legend to be true and is more than 2.5 metres long, regular net of ditches, channels territories, with the restoration of pending from the vault of the and canals. This setting is far thick forests and marshes in spite started to think about apse in the church of Almenno from being the original one of of cultivated fields and irrigation any kind of solution S.Salvatore, besides the two- the area; in the past it actually channels. metre-bone exposed in the near was completely submerged by a to the problem; sanctuary of the Holy Mary in wide, marshy lake alimented by The formation of the lake the inhabitants of Sombreno and the hung-up rib the numerous resurgences that Gerundo was due to the in the sacristy of the church Saint were present between the two inefficient drainage of the rivers , for Bassano, in , which rivers. The lake named Gerundo Adda and Serio, which conveyed example, built three- is 1 .70-metre-long. The origin sprawled among the current and covered a depression of of such exotic trophies is easy provinces of Brescia, Bergamo, the Po Valley. The inhabitants metre-high and to be discovered; the modern Milan and Lodi, and it occupied of the old residential centres fifteen-kilometre- visitor actually understands an area that was so wide as founded in the region were too that the bones were rests of to be called by the inhabitants superstitious to understand this long walls to protect prehistoric animals found around with the appellative “sea”. Its geological explanation; the lake themselves from the the area and then transported waters reached the present became therefore the source of by merchants and pilgrims, who residential area of Spino d’Adda all evil because of its permanent dragon and renamed put them into the aforementioned until , Bagnolo fogs, the bad smell and the the main street of the religious buildings. The medieval Cremasco and . unhealthy humidity causing a lot man, instead, believed in Today these Commons are set of epidemic, besides rendering village snake’s road. the existence of the fantastic in row very near to the landslip the territory near the lake creatures that occupy the pages that once constituted the western dangerous and impracticable. The story of the dragon Taranto of bestiaries; the found of a shore of the Insula Fulcheria In the Commons around the lake ended at the beginning of the bone of unusual dimensions (Fulcheria island). the inhabitants started to create XIV Century, when a huge animal was therefore an occasion to From the V Century B.C. the legends and superstitions that skeleton was found near the celebrate the defeat of a wicked Celtic and Gallic tribes settled soon became tradition. The main river Adda. For the inhabitants dragon. onto the territory and began to character of these odd stories it was of course the skeleton of reclaim these swampy lands; was the dragon Tarantasio the famous dragon, which was As we have already said, with the coming of the Romans (also named Taranto), a snaking therefore moved to Lodi into the repopulation of the Fara the drainage of fields was monster with a canine head that the church dedicated to Saint Gera d’Adda started around improved by the building of lived in the abysses of the lake Christopher and there hung up to the VII Century and was hydraulic works due to embank Gerundo, from which it emerged the ceiling for centuries. Signs of related to areas with specific and gutter waters. From the IV only to eat a young man or a the repetition of this practice are morphological characteristics,

04 Tracing historical events Tracing historical events 05 one in and the other in Rubbiano, which depended on the coenoby of Santa Giulia of Brescia and which were set in the north and in the south of our territory. The actions of land reclamation and drainage, which restarted successfully at the end of the XI Century, were started two centuries before. In any case, the works of deforestation and requalification of lands increased around the year 1000, when two Benedictine communities settled in the area. The monks of the coenoby in , which was founded in 1084, and the monks of the Abby of Saint Benedict, 1 . Civic Canal of Cremona whose presence is confirmed in a document dated 1097, such as a certain elevation that promoted and supported the permitted a bigger distance drainage of the big marsh. In a from the swamps and therefore couple of centuries swamps and better ventilation. Considering marshes became an alternation these needs, the most healthy of fields and irrigation channels, places to live in were the among which the Civic Canal plateau of and the of Cremona is the oldest. The Insula Fulcheria, a promontory civic Canal is mentioned in emerging from the waters of the some documents of the XI and Gerundo that was a berthing XII Century, even if its definitive point for the population of setting dates back to the year , Crema and 1337. It intercepted the Oglio , which overlooked River between Calcio and the marsh of the Moso. The , two Commons stabilisation of human settlements in the in the area is confirmed by the that once were governed by presence of two monasteries, Cremona, guttering its waters until Romanengo and then from here it continued to reach Cremona. One century later, precisely in 1442, Francesco Sforza promoted the excavation of the new Canal of the Melotta with the aim to improve the flood of the Civic Canal. In 1512 the well-known Canal Pallavicino was built in the bed 2. St. Pieter’s Church in Abbadia Cerreto of the pre-existing irrigation

06 Tracing historical events 3. Stretch of track among the fontanili of Empire, for example, the Oglio river was a natural borderline among the municipalities of Brixia and Bergomum and the colony of Cremona. Numerous imperial edicts gave Brescian Bishops the exclusive right to use the waters of the Oglio, a privilege sanctioned in a decree dated 4. Canal of Melotta 965, which from that moment on has strongly been claimed by the ditch Antegnata, which brought prelates. The Battle of the Mala water to the fields between Morte, which was fought in 1191 and Fontanella. In the in Rudiano between the Common modern era the reclaim saw the of Bergamo, allied with Cremona, realisation of important channels, versus the Common of Brescia, such as the Channel Vacchelli might have been caused by the and the complex named Tombe Brescian will of maintaining that Morte both planned in the prerogative. It was the first of second half of the XIX Century. numerous conflicts and contrasts that happened in this territory to “...set armed against each conquer lands and control waters other...” and communication channels. The works for the regimentation of the waters, which were The birth of the numerous castles, which today are scattered throughout the country, is a consequence of the old territorial fights aimed to obtain the 5. Near the complex “Tombe Morte” control of waters started by the monks, continued and communication during the Age of Commons and favoured the development of all routes. The opposition the basic economic and social between the activities, such as agriculture, fishing and artisan activities, two enemy lines interesting also river trade constituted the and military defence. The lack of water could determine the old defensive net failure of a government. Water has always had, in fact, a huge that, numbering importance; during the Roman a lot of burgs and

08 Tracing historical events 6. The Canal Vacchelli near 7. Entrance to the Castle of Romanengo 8. Noble residence built up on to the ruins of the Castle of Trigolo fostifications, was building of a burg rounded by high defensive walls. In the XVIII built to maintain the Century the burg became a farm dominion of strategic and in the following century its walls were demolished; regions. the extant walls are only a few metres long. The so-called corridor of The fortalice of Pizzighettone calciana, a strip of land was instead the heart of around Calcio, was one of the Milan’s military defence, whose aforementioned strategic zones extraordinary bastioned walls because it was the only access faced the flourishing town of to the Oglio for the inhabitants Crema, which was conquered of Cremona. In order to protect by the Most Serene Republic this right in the XV Century the after many fights in 1449. This population built the majestic town lying behind the enemy burg of Soncino, the extreme lines became therefore the last bulwark of the defence of the outpost of a far government, eastern territory of Cremona. thus granting to the Venetian The burg was built between Republic the protection of its 1473 and 1475 by Bartolomeo western borderline. Between Gadio and it faced the near 1488 and 1509 the Venetian , a stronghold founded government enclosed the city in by Brescian people in 1193 and a three-kilometre-long wall fence then converted to military citadel to reinforce the military role of under the Venetian government. the city. The walls protected also The western borderline, which part of the medieval fortifications separated the territory of of the Common, which was Cremona from the jurisdiction destroyed and then rebuilt after of Crema, was overseen by the that Federico Barbarossa sacked fortalice of Romanengo, which it in 1160. in 1192 was built onto a high embankment better to control In the first decay of the XVI the flow of the canalisation Century, precisely in 1509, the of the river Oglio towards Venetian troops were defeated Cremona. In the second half of by the enemy army of Luigi XII, the XV Century Francesco Sforza who stopped the Venetians ordered the reconstruction of in and caused the medieval defence works and the withdrawal of the enemy troops

10 Tracing historical events 9. Camisano, stone marker of the old border between the Most Serene and the Dukedom of Milan 10. The Burg in Soncino 11 . Spino d’Adda, Villa Zineroni Casati 12. , Visconti Castle 13. Pandino, courtyard of the Castle 14. Villa Serafina in Augusta, in Vidolasco near Mestre, making them “Delight Villas or country abandon much of their territories palaces...” in the Ghiera d’Adda on their To complete the artistic and way back. historic description of the Cremasque we now focus After the battle of Agnadello the on the villa architecture. The manor house in Rivolta d’Adda presence of monumental was destroyed and was replaced residences in the region has by the palace Celesia. The same ancient origins; an example of thing happened in Spino d’Adda, this is the late-Roman Villa in where the extant 18th-century villa Palazzo Pignano, which presents Zineroni Casati occupies the area interesting halls decorated that once was the seat of town’s with splendid mosaics of the V military fortifications. The structure Century A.C.. Villa Marazzi is of the luxurious house still another splendid building of presents traces of the old castle, Palazzo Pignano; it presents a for example a little tower jutting high tower that reminds us of out from the backside of the the former defensive function of villa, which was restructured at the building, which has been the beginning of the XX Century. restructured and renewed to In Rivolta the old presence of become the residence of a noble a fortified village is observable family. This requalification of in the extant disposition of the old structures, which was due to residential area, which is partially render them welcoming houses delimited by the old moat. The for nobles, was a custom of the beautiful manor house in Pandino XV Century. Another example is to be mentioned, since it was of an old castle transformed built from the year 1354 to be into a villa is the fascinating the ducal residence of Bernabò Villa Serafina in Vidolasco. Its Visconti and Regina della Scala. structure is that of an ancient The stunning court was originally burg of the XI Century, which was thought to be the house for the readapted in the XV Century to prince’s spare time, even if four suit the residential needs of the angular towers reinforced the counts Tadini; in the XVI Century whole structure. After the political a second renovation based on changes of the XVI Century the the introduction of Renaissance manor house lost its defensive motifs followed. role and became a noble residence.

14 Tracing historical events 15. , Villa Giavarina Ghisetti of the residences in Ricengo, Spino d’Adda and , which present Milanese decorations, was influenced by the artistic tradition of the dukedom of Milan; this double affection in styles was a consequence of the position of Crema, which was in fact a 18. Capergnanica, Palace Robati 19. , Villa Albera 16. , Villa Foglia Cremonesi Venetian isle into the Milanese territory. That’s why Villa Ghisetti Among the farms and houses which was founded in the second Anyway, the diffusion Giavarina in Ricengo, which may scattered through the country half of the XVIII Century, and derive from a medieval convent, around Crema we can’t avoid Villa Carioni Caravagi, with its of such buildings all shows a pretty façade presenting mentioning the Marazzis’ residence open arches facing the garden. two artistic orders; the façade in Capergnanica, the sober houses Villa Bettinzoli and villa Bisleri in over the territory was refined in the XVIII Century of Izano, among which Villa are instead examples by the noble Milanese painter Severgnini Carpani presents a 17th- of 18th- and 19th-century owner’s increased in the and architect Fabrizio Galliari. century structure, the 19th-century residences. Finally the fine town hall second half of the XVI Villa Griffoni Sant’Angelo in Villa Noli Dattarino and the elegant of Casale Cremasco Vidolasco is to Castel Gabbiano was built Villa Foglia Cremonesi, a former be mentioned, because it is inserted Century, when the in various stages on the basis rural court which was transformed in the court of Villa Oldi Agnesi and of an old 16th-century castle, in gentilitial house during the last it presents an elegant, arched main Venetian authority whose massive great tower is century. Other interesting buildings door. still visible; Giovanni Ruggeri, are Villa Vailati Poletti in , the favourite architect of the Milanese bourgeoisie, may have designed it. The architectonic structure of the aforementioned Villa Zineroni Casati dell’Orto in Spino d’Adda is composed by three blocks lying in a “u” shape, which is a typical layout of 17th- and 18th-century Lombard villas, 17. Casale Cremasco, Palace Oldi Agnesi even if the style is mitigated by the neoclassic renovation of the absorbed the shock building. On the other hand, Villa Obizza in Bottaiano, a hamlet of the defeated in of Ricengo, is strongly affected Agnadello and a period by architectural elements of the Palladian language; it is in fact of prosperity followed. architecturally related to the rural buildings and environment it is The three-century-long dominion surrounded by, giving the lord a of the Venetian Republic justifies view on his lands and farmers. the presence and construction The same happens for the of Villa Obizza in Bottaiano, of palace Dell’Albera in Salvirola, the Albera in Salvirola and of which was defined as the most Villa San Severino Vimercati in Palladian villa in the whole Vaiano, while the construction Cremasque.

16 Tracing historical events 20. Ricengo, Villa Ghisetti Giavarina 21 . Castel Gabbiano, Villa Griffoni Sant’Angelo Focus on

is a courtyard aimed to be the first of trading just a little amount defence of the burg, which leads to of products. Instead, in 1829 in another drawbridge that introduces Farinate a third wheel was added into the inner court guarded by the to the 17th-century mill for the The fortress of Soncino majestic donjon. The high tower is the The mills grinding of rice. Even if the modern starting point of the visit of the inside era caused the abandoning of The fortress of Soncino is surrounded rooms of the fortress, which today are Strolling through the country of the the traditional ways of grinding, by defensive walls and it presents connected by charming stone stairs Cremasque people may encounter the image of the mill has always four big corner towers; its structure that once were the alternative to the wheels of a watermill. Actually, been deep-seated into the daily follows the old Milanese defensive secret passages. Betterments lead to in the past these structures were experience of the local populations; philosophy, which favoured the big cylindrical tower surmounted strongly present in our territory, an example of this is the story of a strategic managing of the by a kind of lookout and then forward since they were connected to the the watermill in : built fortifications on the territory in to the chapel that perhaps was the thick presence of channels and in 1805, it worked until the 1970s, spite of the realisation of “fire-arm- soldiers’ one, as it is suggested by canals representing the centuries- and today it is the seat of an proof” castles. While the other the presence of a fresco portraying old use of hydric resources. Since interesting museum that explains contemporaneous defensive buildings a Mother and Child. Signs of power the middle ages the grinding of the importance of such structures in of the middle were more lay next to the religious icon: the cereals, the pressing of seeds and the land. functional, the fortress of Soncino has terrifying big snake of the Visconti’s a lot of other activities were in fact instead looked old fashioned since coat of arms, the lion of St Marco performed thanks to the strength its building (1473-1475) because of dating back to the decay of the of the millwheel that was put in its high walls that could not protect Venetian dominion (1499-1509) and function by waters, which were the village from bombs and cannons. the Sforza’s blazon framed by brands therefore purposely canalized in Anyway, the function of the burg was on fire, to which buckets full of water order to make the mechanism of not compromised by this structural hang. In the end of the 19th century the millstone move. During the “defect” since it was realised after the restoration made by the architect centuries this mechanism was 1460, when Francesco Sforza ordered Luca Beltrami, which had a continuity improved, especially thanks to the to reinforce the defensive walls. The in style with the old structure, partially scientific and technical innovations entry to the fortress is represented by altered the features of the burg, even that man introduced in agriculture the drawbridge of the rivellino that if its original setting remained.. between the 18th and the 19th centuries. Anyway, the changes brought by these innovations were not substantial and each village maintained its own mill for the daily supplying of flours. The single- or double-wheel structure of the mills in Ricengo and , Soncino, Capralba, Capergnanica, Pieranica and , for eample, suited the local need

18 Tracing historical events Tracing historical events 19 The artistic side of Crema This chapter is divided into sections to orient the reader to the cultural offer of the territory, pointing out some main themes that can be a guide in the discovery of the cultural and artistic context of the Cremasque.

The sweet discovery The artistic side of Crema by Luciana Medici

The Faith route “official” and public Faith, such as apse juts out from the backside of and child and the frescoes of The analyses of the works of art parish- and town churches, and the building, while the inner walls the apse are worth the visit. The of a region cannot be totally the minor works, which were born of the central nave present parts of sanctuary near the residential divided from the interpretation of in the bosom of poor but devoted some devotional frescoes, among area of is dedicated to religious signs, which permeate people. We now focus on the which the delicate Annunciation the Holy Virgin of Binengo. It is a some architectures and paintings lasts, starting from the Sanctuary onto the arch of the presbytery is building of the XVI Century that and have gained the quality of of the Vergine dei Boschi (Virgin to be mentioned. The altar-piece conserves a clay sculpture of the cultural tradition for their deep of the woods) in Spino d’Adda. portraying St. Michael is proudly Virgin and a series of frescoes affection and age. The territory Built in the XVI Century, the shrine exposed above the main altar; painted either by Aurelio Busso around Crema is full of such commemorates the miraculous it is considered to be the first or by one member of its circle. artistic exemplars; numerous liberation of a prisoner who made work of Gian Giacomo Barbelli, Further away, precisely in Soncino, sanctuaries actually are scattered a vow to the Virgin. An icon of the a painter born in Offanengo in there’s the sanctuary Madonna throughout the country, and Virgin Mary and child is therefore the 1604. With relation to the delle Grazie (of Our Lady of each town, village or hamlet has still present in the crypt of the aspects of the cult of the Virgin Grace); built between 1501 and at least one church or religious sanctuary, next to a pair of broken Mary, the Sanctuary of the Holy 1515 thanks to the participation of niche. In the only common of handcuffs. In the presbytery there Virgin Pallavicina in Izano is to the whole population, it preserves Capergnanica, for example, there are frescoes portraying the life of be mentioned; it was built after frescoes of Giulio Campi and of are four tabernacles and three Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary; the apparition of Our Lady other exponents of the Lombard chapels dedicated to the Virgin they were probably realized by in front of a native girl, which Renaissance. Mary, among which the oldest one the workshop of Callisto Piazza, happened around the year 1444. is the Madonna Addolorata ai a famous artist from Lodi. In the The ornamental setting numbers In the city of Crema the Cazzuoli, which dates back to the same period, which goes from some baroque stuccos and frescos deep religiosity of the XVII Century. Other architectures 1540 to 1545, in the near oratory of the Renaissance, such as the are the Madonnina delle Süchéte of Saint Roch in the hamlet , sincere portrait of the Virgin and inhabitants brought (Virgin of little pumpkins), which he emphatically painted some child painted onto one pillar of the was built in the XIX Century episodes of the apparition of the apse. Closed into a golden box to the construction of thanks to the greengrocers of the Saint. The dedication of the 16th- sculpted by Alessandro Arrigoni, two shrines. The first village, and the Immaculate Virgin Century oratory to the Saint, who there’s a precious organ Serassi; of the Brefanghe. Considering is the protector of plague victims, is it has been staying here since is dedicated to the the centre of Crema, besides another sign of the importance of 1749. In the Common of Bagnolo the majestic cathedral, there its worship among the inhabitants. Cremasco, onto a gentle hill, the Madonna delle Grazie are a lot of religious buildings The building, which hides itself sanctuary named Virgin of the (Our Lady of Grace) and that seem to be in competition among the houses of the Common Grapes stands. It dates back to the with the main church for their Trescore Cremasco, consists in XVI Century and onto its façade was built in the XVII beauty. It’s impossible to speak one nave and is totally made of it presents an image of Saint about these monuments without bricks. To Saint Roch is dedicated Eurosia; inside the shrine there Century in the very close making a distinction between also the pretty little Renaissance are devotional frescoes, among to the Venetian walls the main religious constructions, church set in the residential area of which the beautiful representation which are the expression of an Offanengo. An elegant polygonal of the XVI Century of the Virgin near Porta Ombriano;

22 The artistic side of Crema The artistic side of Crema 23 there’s a legend that in 1575 and the represented episodes of the Nativity of Christ, speaks about the the Adoration of the Magi and the Piety wanted to make together presence in here of a a global meaning. On the miraculous icon of the vault the finest depiction of the Triumph of the Cross, painted by Virgin. Giacomo Pallavicino in the XVIII The second sanctuary, named Century, echoes the importance Santa Maria della Croce (Saint of the aforementioned frescoes. Mary of the Cross), lies out of In these sanctuaries the pious the perimeter fence, where the farmers and craftsmen of the Virgin came into rescue of the Cremasque went and received noblewoman Caterina degli the Eucharist on Sundays and Uberti, who had been stabbed during the main religious Festivals. to death by her husband Instead, Numerous chapels and Bartolomeo Contaglio. The niches were built to welcome the building is a fine basilica with devotees that everyday wanted to a central plan designed by the find a little relief after the efforts architect Giovanni Battagio of a working day. from Lodi; it has been built in a decay, between 1490 and 1501. This is the reason why chapels The sculptural abundance of the and minor religious buildings front is characterized by clay are considered to be the main decorations and it resembles the devotional complex in people’s inner artistic richness of the series religious life. They are often little of paintings made by the Campi isolated structures standing in the brothers. This cycle was painted middle of the country or just close to little rural graveyards, such as the cemetery of Cremosano; here there’s a chapel with an inscription about the plague of 1627, but the architectural structure, which is a close aedicule with a porch on its front, suggests to date back its construction at the end of the XVI Century.

The graveyard of Izano, built in the 1780, is closed among the arches of a wide peristyle that ends with a church presenting a sort of triple apse. Inside the building an interesting cycle of frescoes, which was commissioned from the local community at the end of the 17th 22. Cremosano, chapel of the plague Century, represents the fourteen

24 The artistic side of Crema 23. Izano, monastic cemetery 24. Sergnano, Vergine del Binengo 25. Trescore Cremasco, St. Agata’s Parish Church 26. Offanengo, Oratory of San Rocco 27. Camisano, Madonna della Neve and Parish Church of St. John the Baptist Stations of the Cross; each station (1942), which is framed by thick occupies one bay of the church. riparian vegetation. The 16th- The cemetery-church of Saint Century church of Saint Mary Mary in Cantuello, in the common in Gaeta is notable thanks to of Ricengo, is to be mentioned the Piety of its main altar, which because it conserves votive was painted by one member of frescoes of the 15th Century. The the circle of Civerchio. Finally, little chapel dedicated to the the renaissance oratory of Saint dead people of the Dossello Joseph in Gattolino and its 18th- in Offanengo, the little church Century piece portraying the named della Crocetta in Casale Nativity are to be mentioned. Cremasco that was built in the first half of the 18th century and then enclosed in the porticoed fence of The places of preservation the cemetery the following century, After having tasted the deep and the chapel of the graveyard religiosity enclosed in little in Bagnolo Cremasco, which churches and sanctuaries, we was built in 1905 to substitute the now focus our attention on other previous one, are also noteworthy. aspects of the society of the The actual cemetery of Bagnolo Cremasque, which in the past Cremasco, set outside the was in balance between rural residential centre of the village, roughness and urban decorum. was built with the aim to replace Following an ideal route from the old burial area, which was set Crema to Offanengo and then near the parish church after the from here to Soncino people plague of the 1630. In the same can encounter elite artistic area stood also the building called pieces, material documents and Chiesuolo, which today preserves testimonies of the farming in the wooden sculptures of the the fields or of the work in the Crucifix, the Virgin and Saint John. botteghe and also suggestion of a To the victims of the plague is also peculiar episode. dedicated the oratory of Santa In the 1950s a requalifying Maria della Pietà (Saint Mary intervention, besides its function of the Piety), near the centre of of barracks in the Napoleonic Bagnolo Cremasco, that presents period, permitted the recovery of an elegant façade. Nearby the the 13th-Century convent of Saint village, on the bank of the Canal Augustine, which today is the seat Vacchelli, there’s the interesting of the Civic Museum of Crema and church of Saint Catherine al Moso the Cremasque.

26 The artistic side of Crema 28. Bagnolo Cremasco, St. Catherine al Moso 29. Soncino, demonstration at the Press Museum 30. Offanengo, Rural Culture Museum The expositive itinerary and Soncino and artefacts of the late Roman period coming runs, therefore, through from the archaeological site of a fascinating monastic palazzo Pignano, besides precious finds in the Lombard necropolis atmosphere, which can of Offanengo. In the picture appeal even though the gallery people can learn about the fundamental stages of the religious function of painting of the Cremasque just the building has been staring at fine pieces of Civerchio, Mauro Oicenardi, Cignaroli compromised for years. and Gian Giacomo Berbelli, next to works of Guercino and The two cloisters enclosed by Alessandro Magnasco. Besides the ogival arcades are particularly paintings, there is an interesting notable, and also the refectory musical section that preserves is noteworthy; its walls are local artisans’ masterpieces covered with the finest frescoes and a copious collection of of the painter Giovan Pietro historic documents and maps. In from Cemmo, a little village in Offanengo there’s also the seat the Valcamonica. The depictions of the Rural Culture Museum, are easily datable because the which was constituted thanks to evolution of the painter’s style inhabitants’ donations and the is evident; there actually is an lucky acquisition of numerous example for each period of his art, tools. The exposition evokes the from the late-gothic style of the heart and aspirations of the 15th-Century Crucifixion painted pre-industrial society, which was on the back wall, to the modern based on simple but dignified conception of Leonardian influence activities that repeated during the 31 . Crema, St. Augustine’s cloister in the depiction of a Last Supper years with the help of traditional (1507). tools. Although used many times by different people, these utensils Speaking about civic collections, remind us of the old , the rich archaeological section which nowadays is probably presents tools and objects of the lost. Among the more 400 utensils territory, among which there are of the collection people can tools of the Bronze Age which observe pulleys and anvils, a flax were found in Vidolasco, Celtic scutcher and the grindstone of a utensils found in Spino d’Adda knife-sharpener. There also are

32. Giovanni Pietro da Cemmo’s “ Last Supper” in the 28 The artistic side of Crema Civic Museum of Crema and the Cremasque 33. Crema, the “Torrazzo” 34. Crema, Palace Vimercati Sanseverino 35. Crema, Palace Benzoni a cobbler’s desk, a ploughshare, Signs of power hunting traps and hay-cutters. The elegant palaces and the These names are surely familiar villas of Crema are now worth a to you and they probably remind talk. The town of Crema borders you of past memories, when the outskirts of the Veneto region the daytime was marked by the and is therefore in contact with sound of bells in spite of modern the main centres of art and hoots. Finally, there’s the museum power. Between the XV and of printing in Soncino, which is the XVI Century, the political set in a house of gothic features stability brought by the Venetian where, in the second part of the domination favoured the building XV Century, the first Italian printing of fine houses, whose beauty was industry was born. A Jewish family, considered to be the sign of the the Nathans, came from Germany present and future prestige of and settled in the village, founding a lot of patrician families in the it; there are documents saying Cremasque. that at a certain point the family changed its surname in Soncino, Therefore the palaces which from that moment on built during the became their brand. Under that trademark in 1488 they published Renaissance soon their famous Bible, the first in Italy became magnificent to be printed entirely in Jewish. The museum was founded to residences that could their memory and it shows visitors easy remind the the different printing processes and techniques, with the help of observer of its owners’ reconstructed printing machines wealth. and hand presses. In Soncino there’s also the Since it’s impossible to mention all Historic Museum of the National the palaces that are scattered over Association of Veterans and the urban area, we now analyse Soldiers, which was realised in some significant examples that can 1997 into one of the towers of the be taken as representative for all Sforza burg. the kinds of building of the territory. First of all the Benzoni palace is to be mentioned, as it is the seat of the Civic Library. Originally built in the XV century, it was refurbished

32 The artistic side of Crema 36. Crema, the civic tower with St. Mark’s lion One of the most ancient palaces main door and in the arched tympani with its ornamental friezes and of the city, whose name is of the windows. The structure of the statues. In spite of its incompleteness, mentioned in documents dating building reflects Cozzi’s genius; he Palace Terni is therefore considered back to the XV Century, was actually created an architectonic to be one of the finest palaces of the property of another branch of complex articulated in many parts, city. the Benzoni family, even if its among which the fine court opens present owners are the Donatis. The palace Benzoni Donati is different from the aforementioned 37. Crema, Palace Benzoni buildings because it presents an understated but chaste façade, by the architect Roberto Benzoni whose only decoration is the in 1627. The main façade presents balustrade under each second- two tiers of windows divided by floor window. The 19-century a projecting stringcourse ledge effect of harmonious simplicity is and it welcomes the visitor with reinforced by the elegant loggia a fine stone-door framed by two of the inner courtyard that is visible telamons supporting the little from the arched andron. Another balcony. The beautiful arch shows noteworthy representation of the the tourist into the first courtyard, art of Crema is the long and white which is surrounded by a square- front façade of palace Toffetti porch of the XVII Century and is Crivelli (1647 – 1663), which plays in communication with the court of with the asymmetry of the classic the old 15th-century residence. main door opening onto the garden-courtyard. The building Another renaissance building is lies around the garden forming a the palace Vimercati-Sanseverino, horseshoe. The 17-century Palace which is composed by three Zurla Fadini is very different from detached buildings and therefore the Toffetti Crivelli, considering that it occupies an entire district. The it develops in height instead of most important façade is the one extending horizontally. Moreover, in via Benzoni; the two tires of the whiteness of the plaster of windows are this time enriched by the palace Benzoni-Donati is a decoration of baroque plasticity: substituted here by a rough ashlar- on the lintel of the first-floor work. The solid building, far from windows there is the coat of arms being affected by the Baroque, of the family, while the second- resembles therefore the shape floor windows are framed by two of a castle or a burg. Finally, the Tuscan semi-pillars and an arched palace Terni de Gregori is to tympanum, whose keystones are be mentioned. Its construction represented by marble busts began in the last years of the portraying the palace lords. The XVII Century with the project of same motif returns in the double Giuseppe Cozzi, but it has never tympanum of the front door, which been finished. Its structure, which presents grooved pillars at its sides is conceived with bricks, reminds and has the coat of arms of the in colours of the architectonic family Vimercati-Sanseverino at its Lombard tradition, renewing it centre. with the adoption of late-baroque modules, which are visible onto the

34 The artistic side of Crema 38. Crema, Palace Bondenti Terni Focus on

to Battaggio, chose little trefoil Apostles. The astonishing little arches of late-gothic tradition. angels hold a kind of curtain and The wondering inner space is they seem to be flying all around divided by imposing arches and the little space of the choir. In the The Basilica it is enriched by the presence of Between Piazza and Campi middle of the 16th century Callisto “Santa Maria della Croce” marvellous paints of the Lombard Piazza’s industrious workshop school. Among these works the According to a Renaissance frescoed the walls of the presbytery The story of the majestic sanctuary three altarpieces of the Campi procedure, the Piazza from Lodi of the Madonna del Bosco in Spino is related to the tragic destiny of brothers, which were realised in and the Campi from Cremona d’Adda with the stories of the Virgin the young Caterina degli Uberti 1575, the portrait of the Assumption intended the art to be a profession Mary. The main episodes, among who, in the evening on the 4th April by the Venetian Benedetto Diana of to be handed down from father to which the Assumption of the Virgin 1490, was ripped with a sword by 1514 and the 18th-century frescoes son. The activity of both the painter is to be mentioned, have been her husband Bartolomeo Contagli of the vault by the Pallavicino families was not only related to attributed to Francesco Carminati from Bergamo. Left by the cruel and the Grandi brothers are to the most important churches of from Soncino. In the same period man near the wood Novelletto, the be mentioned. In the year 1593 their towns, but it concerned also (around 1545) Callisto Piazza poor girl was lead by the Virgin to the podesta Nicolò Vendramin religious buildings set in other and some of his scholars ended a farmhouse, in which the following inaugurated the wide alley that villages and country sides, such the decoration of the apse in the day she received the sacraments bounds the basilica with the village. as three religious buildings of the Oratory of St. Rocco in Dovera. The she had been praying for all her life Cremasque. Actually, the wall little temple is an example of the long, and then she died. After that, paintings that decorate the walls master’s art, whose hand’s touch is some miracles happened in the of the sanctuaries in Spino d’Adda, recognizable onto the Apparition place of the torture and persuaded Soncino and Dovera reflect the of St. Rocco to the miller Ambrogio the whole population to build a ability of these artists to modify de Bretis and onto the altarpiece sanctuary. Giovanni Battaggio, one their artistic language moderating portraying the Mother and Child of the best architects of the time, the lofty tone with popular motifs. between the Saints Rocco and projected the religious building, People can find an example Cassiano. whose realisation began between of this affection in the church 1490 and 1501. The complex is Madonna delle Grazie in Soncino; inspired to the coeval solutions here Giulio Campi frescoed in adopted by Bramante and it is 1530 the wall of the presbytery composed of a central body with portraying some Carmelite friars four, polygonal structures. The and the four Evangelists, who are decoration of the outer surface painted in different poses showing is mainly constituted by rows their heavy books. The same of arches, the same that run all impetuous sentiment is readable along the galleries on the first and into the Ascensione della Vergine second floors. For the decoration (Ascension of the Virgin Mary) of the third-floor gallery Antonio painted onto the triumphal arch, Montanaro, who succeeded particularly in the group of the

36 The artistic side of Crema The artistic side of Crema 37 Soil and water The human being has tried to get nourishment from nature since its origin, modifying in this way the primordial landscape. This happened everywhere, both in Lombardy and in the Cremasque, with the difference that some areas of our territory haven’t been altered. The exiting discovery will therefore consist in a careful and respectful experience of the last untamed spots of nature. The sweet discovery Soil and water by Angela Bettazza

The Celt tribes modified for the flood of water and better to The natural environment irrigation ditches, natural reservoirs first time the natural environment distribute it to the country. They of today and swamps that facilitate the around Crema, which was built artificial basins around Even if the city of Crema lies in the proliferation of biological diversity. originally covered with thick and springs, called fontanili, which middle of the Po Valley, its ground Thanks to their thick presence the wide forests. They introduced drain water in a reserve to be is far from being totally level. The water sources remind the observer agriculture in order to support their used in the flushing of fields, thus presence of plateaus and terraces, of the former conformation of the economy, which until that time had modifying the whole water supply with their different highs, form in land, when nature was still unspoilt been based only on hunting and network. The development of fact the dynamic features of the and untamed. The human action swine breeding, the last favoured street and river communication, territory. and the work of exogenous agents by the presence of numerous together with the construction of A great example is the one of have been shaping the land oak trees that supplied the swine new buildings, subtracted space the “Pianalto di Romanengo”, for years, moulding it until they feeding. With the Roman settlement from nature. The environment a plateau that is about thirty gave the area the conformation the territory changed again; the changed from its being natural to squared kilometres wide and ten it has today. The intervention of Romans divided most of the lands in be economically functional; even metres higher than the existing the population concerned the lots and built up irrigation ditches to the last uncontaminated areas were ground, which testifies the ancient deviation of channels and the improve the agricultural production. considered from the point o view morphological aspect of the area. creation of artificial gullies, due to Signs of the Roman reorganization of the production, thus becoming In all the Po Valley there isn’t the introduction of maintenance of lands are still well observable quarries “in the open air”. another example of plateau that cultures, which caused the in the regular division of fields and presents the same dimensions and disappearing of many endemic in the existing channels, which are The great plague of the 1630 good state of conservation of the plant species. The last wild spots still working. Anyway, the Romans caused a considerable loss in terms Pianalto di Romanengo, which of nature widen nearby some concentrated their works on the of population and the return to the in ancient times was surrounded rivers. Here you can observe plant plan, leaving the rolling area to its dominion of nature. For this reason, by marshlands and the water of species trying to reconstruct the wild nature. in the XVIII Century the Austrian the Lake Gerundo. Signs of the typical flora of the area, which is Government strongly promoted old morphology are visible in the constituted by a lot of water plants The increasing of the and supported rural changes, present conformation of the ground, in the swamps such as the reed and taxing the owners of degraded most of all in the western part of the duckweed, and by hygrophic population registered fields and helping economically the plateau, where rapid slopes, trees like the willow. Together the farmers that wanted to improve caused by the erosion of water with these particular plants other around the year 1000 the cultivation of their lands. This and not completely modified by the endemic species of the Po Valley, caused the need of new intervention followed a logic of drainage works made by farmers, such as the ash, the elm and the over-exploitation of the fields, draw the rolling profile of the land. poplar, besides the hornbeam, the cultivable lands and the to the detriment of the natural The division of the fields in lots is oak and other shrubs and stem loss of the latest wild environment, that has been carried underlined by gullies and rows of plants constitute the riparian forest on until today, leading in this way trees, which highlight the multitude of the plain. spots of vegetation. to the present situation of uniformed of colours and farmings. Water The farmers made a furious green areas, with the loss of resources are the most significant Therefore it is easy to think that drainage of the swamps and biological diversity. feature of the territory around once the whole land was covered created structures to control the Crema, which is full of gullies, with trees and that the human

40 Soil and water Soil and water 41 Park of Oglio Sud. Although the admittance is free, the visitors of these wildlife reserves should be careful and respectful towards the plants and animals that populate them, so that tourists’ recreational activities won’t damage the biological life of the parks.

39. A fontanile near the village Camisano The Regional Park of the action has modified the ecosystem Adda Sud of the territory, unfortunately The Regional Park of the Adda Sud causing the detriment, and lies along the lower stretch of the sometimes the loss, of numerous river Adda, measuring about 90 endemic plants. In the western kilometres in length and covering part of the area around Crema, partially the territories under the most of all near the commons of government of the provinces of Rivolta d’Adda, Agnadello, , Crema and Lodi. The wildlife Pandino and Spino d’Adda, there reserve, which is characterized are wide grass lawns, which, thanks by wide bank-woods alternating to a perfect climate, are in very with farmings and swamps born good conditions and represent the by old branches of the river, is last example of the uncultivated crawling with many typical animal meadows that once covered the species. The reproduction of many valley. Among the many water amphibians, among which the resources the rivers Adda, Serio Frog of Latastei is to be mentioned, and Oglio are to be mentioned is favoured by the absence of since they are the main rivers of predatory fish. Peculiar is the the area. The territory that widens presence of some garzaie, which are the nesting colonies of herons; you can find an example of garzaia on the banks of the Adda Morta, in the territory of the Common Pizzighettone. The greenery of the Regional Park of Adda Sud is composed for the 5.5% by wooded and bushed areas, which are mainly constituted by willow trees 41 . Rural path near Soncino and shrubs. These plants need a 40. White track among the fields of the Cremasque considerable quantity of water, which they draw from the river along the riverbanks is protected and from underground reserves. by the constitution of some regional Very close to the banks the willow wildlife parks that are known by the grove, which is formed by hygrophil names of Regional Park of Adda shrubs and by two main species Nord, Regional Park of Adda Sud, of willow (Salix eleagnos and Salix Regional Park of Serio, Regional cinerea), covers 22 hectares of the Park of Oglio nord and Regional park. The part of the forest that is

42 Soil and water 42. The river in Spino d’Adda 43. Route through the Park of the Adda The Regional Park of the sources from which they get their Serio nourishment. This gives the cue for The park of the Serio extends into the description of the portion of the the plain territory along the banks Park that extends into the Commons of the homonym river that goes of and Ricengo, where from the Common of , in you can find the wildlife reserve the Province of Bergamo, to our of the “Palata Menasciutto”. This Province of Crema. The environment area is one of the most important is very wide and rich in biodiversity; of the park and here you can find 44. Tracks through the Park of the Serio for this reason it numbers a lot of the “Lake of reflections”, a deep 45. Ricengo, “Lake of reflections” plant species that compose big lake set into the hole of an old farther from the most humid soil riparian forests. The thick presence quarry that is home to the numerous Recently some human interventions is full with various trees, among of superficial springs,fontanili and animal species above mentioned; due to favour the irrigation of the which the white willow, the white ground waters, together with the the lake is surrounded by a notable surrounding lands, together with and the black poplar, the smooth- floods of the Serio, maintain the riparian forest, which has been the decrease in the amount of leafed elm and the common alder soil wet and favour the growth interested by actions of forest re- water from the tributaries of the prevail. Leaving the river and of typical trees, such as the white qualification. Oglio, have made the flow of the moving towards the north there’s and the black poplar, the plane river slower, favouring the culture of the last oak-wood of the park, and the smooth leafed elm, and poplars. Trees are put in ordered which unluckily is only 1 .6 hectares hygrophic shrubs such as the elder, The Regional Park of the rows forming the typical plantation wide and it is mainly constituted by the hawthorn and the spindle tree Oglio Nord of the Po Valley, whose image is so durmast oaks and turkey oaks. that need a considerable reserve Instituted at the end of the 80s, familiar to the tourists of that area. of water. The western bank of the the Regional Park of the Oglio Farther from the waters there’s the It is worth mentioning some rare river is covered with numerous Nord covers the territory along broad flat area mainly dedicated flowers of great botanic interest, willows, most of all with the white the two banks of the river Oglio to the grain growth; among the such as the Orchis militaris the Scilla willow, which is characterized by that, from Paratico (in the Province spikes of grain some types of ferns, bifolca and the Anemone nemorosa, its white and green leafage. This of Brescia) and (in the orchids and water-primeroses find which are scattered through the belt of trees borders the so called Province of Bergamo) lead to home, which are to be mentioned wood. The other part of the park “residual forest with black alder”, the area of Crema, meeting the for their considerable importance in is covered with tree plantations of a forest composed mainly by Regional Park of the Oglio Sud. The botany among the 900 varieties of anthropic origin, predominantly black alders whose name derives river Oglio is of course the pivot of herbaceous vegetation. Even if it’s locus tree woods and poplar groves, from its thickness and from the the area and the set of birth and scanty, it’s important to underline whose trees were planted in parallel high level of humidity. Farther from life of the species that populate the presence of ecotonal arborean rows. Near these unnatural forests the watercourse you encounter these territories. The thick broad- stretches that are constituted by wide fields for the production of trees that need less water, like the leaved forests and the numerous dog rose and hawthorn, together forage lie. In the last decades the maple and the locust tree, and waterholes that characterize it with elders, mulberries and hazels, natural divisions of the lots, like shrubs that in spring offer coloured have become the refuge for many which in spring offer a coloured rows of trees, bushes and ditches, flowers, such as the cornel, the animals, especially for birds and and stunning picture of the land. have been eliminated to unite blackthorn and the wild cherry amphibians that find an ideal The important biodiversity that has fields and favour specific cultures; tree. There’s a large variety of habitat among the branches of developed among these shrubs, in this regard there’s a permanent fauna in terms of species and elms, hornbeams and maples. In together with the local vegetation, pasture in the country of Crema types, most of all among birds, the past the quick flowing of the risk the extinction; an example of that has to be mentioned because rodents and amphibians, among waters of the river often deviated this is the Ophiogomphus Cecilia, of its variegated flora. It developed which the emerald green toad the bed of the Oglio, thus causing a dragonfly that is considered to thanks to the peculiarity of its soil, and the frog of Lataste are to be the growth of autochthonous be disappearing because of the which presents a gravel ground mentioned. Endemic species of the riparian forests along the banks, changes of its natural habitat. For that has favoured the production of Park, these amphibians find their which are mainly constituted by this reason, seven wildlife reserves redtop and valuable hay for cattle ideal habitat in the most humid hygrophic trees such as the willow, were constituted in the Park to breeding. parts of the territory, near the water the black poplar and the alder. safeguard the numerous native

44 Soil and water Soil and water 45 46. The Oglio river near Soncino 4 7. View of the Park of the Oglio Nord 48. Fontanile near the village Capralba 49. Infopoint in the Park of the Fontanili fauna and flora; the reserve “Bosco in the Common of Pandino, which de l’isola” (“wood of the island”), for has become for this reason the example, extends onto the territories managing authority of the Park. of the Commons , The name of the reserve derives Torre Pallavicina and Soncino. from the river Tormo, which People can visit it only during begins in the Common of Arzago the summer when the flow of the d’Adda and flows into the Adda water is decreased, thus favouring river after a run of 34 kilometres. the ford of the river, which is the Though its shortness, the Tormo only way to enter the reserve. This interests a wide water network, area presents the typical riparian which is characterized by the thick forest, while numerous fontanili are presence of the local fontanili that scattered throughout the zone, supply water for the irrigation of providing the basis for the growth fields and assure a continuous of a rich biodiversity. Next to this flowing of water into the river. The area you meet the first examples of great number of gullies that bring permanent pastures that lead you water to the irrigation ditches to the wood of poplars and English have contributed to render the oaks. The breath-taking power country around Crema one of the of a unique natural environment most fertile of the whole Po Valley, is dimmed by the visible artificial which is renown mainly for the edges constructed to convoy production of corn and forage. the river’s waters into one single These cultures are favoured also by bed, which has increased the the composition of the soil and the downstream erosion for years. physical conformation of the flat territory that has become, for this reason, the set for animal breeding. The Local Park of the Tormo The PLIS of the Tormo aims therefore (PLIS of the Tormo) to safeguard the farming land and The local Park of the Tormo interests at the same time to favour the re- a lot of Commons under the development of the endemic fauna three near Provinces of Bergamo, and flora, supervising the natural Cremona and Lodi, and it is the areas near the riverbanks. conjunction among the Park of the Adda Sud, the recent Local Park of the Moso and the Park of the river Serio. It extends mainly onto the flat land of Crema, covering a considerable part of the territory

46 Soil and water 50. View of the Park of the Tormo The Local Park of the its centre there’s the aforementioned and the Lochis are threatened by the vegetal species, such as the locus tree Fontanili (PLIS of the plateau, the rest of an ancient poor water supply of the water table and the black alder. Large stretches fontanili) promontory of the Po Valley that that should provide a perpetual amount of woods are the natural borders of In the territory of the Common of today is about ten metres higher of water. Even if in the past it was the Canal of Melotta and constitute a Capralba, near Crema, there’s than the level of the surrounding covered by rice fields and centralized perfect habitat for a variegated fauna; another local Park called park of fields. Peculiar for both its culture of wine yards, the territory of there actually are a lot of bird species, the fontanili for the great number of morphology and conformation, the the Plateau of Romanengo is today a fish and amphibians typical of swamps water basins scattered throughout plateau of Romanengo is something wide extension of meadows with spots and woods, but also a lot of predatory the reserve. Actually, you can to be totally preserved, considering of trees that number a lot of endemic mammals like mustelids and foxes. number thirteen of them that create that in the whole Po Valley there a wide water network in the area isn’t another example of plateau and favour the development of with a status of conservation as a unique ecosystem. In the most good as the one around Crema. swampy lands there are dozens The rolling surface of the soil is of water plants like the cutleaf another peculiarity of the plateau waterparsnip and the pale that, thanks to its ups and downs, speedwell, while a couple of metres is very different from the linearity of far from the spring there are the the country. Besides the presence typical endemic trees of Crema, of the plateau, the prestige of the like the elder, the hawthorn, the territory is increased by the water sloe, the poplar, the hornbeam and network, which is largely extended the willow. Turning an eye onto all around the Park. It numbers a the fauna, besides the obvious lot of canals, irrigation ditches and presence of numerous insects, springs that bring water to the fish and amphibians, in the area surrounding fields and to the top of there are a lot of different birds the plateau, not without a certain that choose the territory around difficulty due to heavy soils and to the fontanili to nest. These artificial the difference in height between basins often need maintenance the promontory and the rest of the because of the quick growth of land. The canal that runs up the the water vegetation and the slope and crosses the plateau from continuous deposit of sediments north to south is called Canal of that would otherwise compromise Melotta, today a fork of the bigger their function in the irrigation of Civic Canal of Cremona that has its fields. The conservative policy branch-point just before meeting the is therefore consequent to the plateau. Its conformation suggests importance of the fontanili both for the idea that in the past the Canal their role in the local agriculture of Melotta was a spontaneous river and for the high naturalistic value that later has been deviated by they add to the territory. man for industrial and agricultural utility. Ancient documents of the XIV Century report the news of a The Park of the Plateau reorganization of the water network of Romanengo and of the aimed to bring new waters from the canals around Crema Oglio to the fields, thus reinforcing The Park of the Plateau of our thesis of canal’s autonomy. Romanengo and of the canals Along the banks of the Canal of around Crema is a Local Park (PLIS) Melotta there are a lot of fontanili, that extends onto a wide area. At among which the Moretti, the Triulza

48 Soil and water 51 . Woods along the Canal of Melotta Focus on

centimetres each, compose the is the distinguishing characteristic lower horizon. The presence of of it. After crossing the flat around the petroplintite, whose formation Crema for about 34 kilometres, needs the characteristics of a the canal Vacchelli ends in the The Plateau of Romanengo subtropical climate, suggests that The Canal Vacchelli Common of , where a the formation of this horizon goes complex water supply architecture We have already spoken about back to the Würman phase dating The canal Vacchelli is one of the deviates its flow into the different the plateau of Romanengo as back to 130000 years ago. During most important actions aimed irrigation ditches and canals to a singular phenomenon for its that period the rainfalls were to improve the irrigation of the bring water to the surrounding physical characteristics, such much more copious than today territory around Crema. It was fields. Along the banks of this linear as its dimensions and its state and temperatures were higher, realized between the years 1887 waterway there’s a thick arboreal of conservation. It formed after thus determining in the whole Po and 1892 and it represents the cover that numbers, of course, a movements of tectonic origin that Valley a more humid climate, which latest channelling work in the area. lot of hygrophic trees, which offers raised upward a portion of the favoured the composition of this Called from the 1913 with the name repair from the hot summer weather ground and modelled it in the horizon. During the years a lot of of the senator Pietro Vacchelli, who to those who want to stop and shape it has today, maintaining it sediments have been brought here strongly promoted its realisation, stare at the natural environment higher than the lowland. Its good by the wind, covering the layer with the canal is also known as channel characterized by the typical rows status of conservation, therefore, a sandy stratum. Marzano, which is the name of of poplars that are the distinctive helps us with the reconstruction the village it starts from. Some mark of the Po Valley. of the geological evolution of the inhabitants use this name also whole territory around Crema, today. It has an important water which has been interested by a flow, about 38 cubic metres per lot of natural phenomena during second, because it conveys the the last 300.000 years. Thin waters of the river Adda that arrive sediments of fluvial origin that to the outskirts of Spino d’Adda into have been depositing on the the Civic Canal of Cremona, and area for years constitute mainly it brings water to the Civic Canal the soil of the plateau, which of Cremona and to the Canal presents two different layers. The Pallavicino. Numerous underpasses, A-horizon, named a fragipan, has bridges and overpasses maintain a maximum depth of two metres the water of the canal separate and is characterized by a hard from the water of the irrigation and compact stratum of brown-red ditches it meets along its run soil that becomes impermeable throughout the country, deviating and more brittle if wet, thus them into artificial pools and gullies reminding us of its old function of that pass over or under the channel. glacier-supporter. Different layers These peculiar architectures create of hard and very compact soil, a water game that is typical of with a height of about twenty this part of the territory and that

50 Soil and water Soil and water 51 The gastronomic island “In the background there’s the lombard fog, which resembles whispered secrets, physical contact, close friendship and sharing. The fog evokes also steaming dishes, a glass of good wine, a rich and home-made food.”

(Roberta Schira, “La cucina delle nebbie”, Crema 2002)

The sweet discovery The gastronomic island by Gilberto Polloni

A territory of water and soups, cornmeal mush, cabbage “tortelli cremaschi” (sort of ravioli), The tortelli are then dressed with foggy but luminescent and cold cuts. The watercourses are for example, are a typical inimitable abundant melted butter (“li gà greenery. drawings on the green paper made dish that can be eaten only in the da negà ‘ndal buro”, that is they In the preface of his research about of vegetation, a natural origin of area around Crema. have to sank into melted butter). the cooking of the Cremasque, the cornucopia full with tasting In her essay about pasta Roberta Marco Ermentini wrote that “One dishes of the local food. The rural Schira writes about the “Tortello of the most evident characteristics report made by Jacini in 1882 is the The admirable and sweet- cremasco” saying that its sweet of a culture is its cooking. The first testimony of that the country of smelling elegy of the and savoury characteristic of the cuisine of our territory is not just a the Cremasque has always been “Tortello” tortello cremasco, far from being a curiosity, it’s a fundamental part productive and fertile; today it is In the production area of the simple specificity, represents instead of our identity”, and he said also divided into regular fields, which tortello there are plenty of different the centuries-old tradition deriving that this is “a true cooking made are separated by rows of poplars, versions of it and there are of from the 16th-century tastes, which of simple dishes, dedicated to the willows and alders, filling in the course arguments aimed to discover are documented in books of that delicate flavours and equilibriums empty land among the little villages which is the original one. Anyway, time. Don’t forget also that until among its ingredients”. The scattered throughout the valley. the basic ingredients are usually the beginning of the 19th Century short but dense list of the typical This conformation favours a kind dark macaroons, candied citron, a Crema was under the dominion of dishes of the Cremasque is full of of “niche agriculture”, which is very special biscuit called “Mostaccino”, the Republic of Venice, whose food interesting descriptions that will different from the large estates mint, egg and Parmigiano cheese, was spicy and strongly influenced make you understand not only that are typical of the lowlands of which sometimes are mixed with by exotic flavours that were the their composition but also their Cremona. The small proportions of raisins, nutmeg and liqueur to form direct consequence of the Venetian origin and structure. The “Burda”, the rural production, together with the filling. The dough of the Tortello trade with the Orient and the for example, is a soup made the industrial connotation of Crema, is made of flour, water, salt and Levant. with rice and beans; its name is have led to the creation of a list of sometimes eggs and it has to be dialectal and means “fog” and it agro-alimentary specialities that rolled out to become very thin. Then Another pivot of derives from the particular colour today are a distinctive part of the the dough is cut into discs that are the agro-alimentary of the soup. In the past the two local identity. In fact, many of the filled with the former mixture and ingredients were cooked in a dishes and products that compose then strongly closed with a fork to production of the mixture of cut vegetables fried in an the list are renowned only among be boiled into water. The cooking Cremasque is the “Salva emulsion of lard, flour and flaxseed the 55 parishes of the dioceses time depends on the thickness of oil, because at that time people of Crema, out of which they are the pasta, anyway there’s a trick con le tighe”, a dish you didn’t use olive oil to cook. This simply unknown. This “gastronomic to know when they are ready to should really taste. is a specificity of the Cremasque, borderline” is a consequence be eaten. You just have to take a land that during the summer of the old and historic division one tortello with the fork and The Salva cheese, which gained the sunsets covers its landscape and of lands; actually, the territories pull it out from the water; when D.O.P. denomination (denomination the golden and orange fields around Crema have always been its sides dangle, they are ready of protect origin) with the law CE with a white, impalpable shroud isolated from the bigger Province (“quant i sa tira sö con la furchèta, n°510/2006, has been produced in of fog, through which the smell of of Cremona, and this separation se i sbasa i ale i è cot”, that means the area since the first decays of the first fireplaces reminds you of has therefore been reflected into when you pull out a tortello, if it the 11th Century, when the Locus the autumnal delights such as hot the extant food traditions. The lows its wings it’s well cooked). Cremae became castrum, that

54 The gastronomic island The gastronomic island 55 52. The “tortello cremasco” 53. A plate of Salva cheese with the “tighe” is, when the ancient village was more it is aged, the more intense fortified. An accurate observer its aromas are. The squares of can find it into many works of Salva have to be mellowed for art of that period, such as the a minimum period of 75 days, so Dinner of Gregorio Magno of the they are put onto wooden boards 17th Century, a paint inspired by covered with canes and left in an the legend Aurea of Jacopo da airy spot. Once a week the squares Varagine; on the dressed table are oiled to avoid the formation the Salva cheese is well notable. of cracks in the rind, which are The origin of its name derives caused by the drying up of the from the function of the cheese, cheese. The Salva is usually served which was produced in spring with the “tighe” that are long, to use the exciding amount of green, pickled peppers. Let’s keep milk, saving it from being wasted. on travelling around the world of The name “Salva” derives from the flavours of the Cremasque; the Italian verb “salvare”, which we now focus our attention onto actually means to save, to preserve, the prestigious dairy production, and to keep. Furthermore, in the whose millennium-old tradition is etymologic dialect dictionary of the testified by some antique holed Cremasque the Salva is defined recipients that were used for the as “Strachì da sàlva, soft cheese dairy production of milk of a proto- that becomes hard after being historic settlement near Montecchio oiled and then preserved for the di Vidolasco, which may be of the winter season”, which explains 10th century BC. Another sign of the its function of preservation of the importance of the cheese tradition milk for the coldest months of the is a 19th-century report, in which it year. Speaking about the sensory is written that “the variety of cheese qualities of the cheese, the Salva is produced in our territory is known a raw paste cheese with a squared in the world of commerce with shape; it is produced with full- the names cacio parmigiano or cream milk and its rind is thin, clean grana” and that the most common and reddish with the presence of production, both in autumn and typical microflora. If cut it has a summer, was the one of the soft soft, irregular and white paste that cheeses such as the “gorgonzola”, becomes more yellowish (an aged the “quartirolo” and the “crescenza”. Salva is straw-yellow) with time. The This variety was granted by the big flavour of this cheese changes from production of high quality cow’s spicy and intense, to blending and milk that caused the formation savoury into the mouth, while the of a solid industry, whose most

56 The gastronomic island 54. The traditional Tortello summer party in the main square of Crema with Salva. Another speciality with an interesting flavour and a good texture is the “Menacc”, which is a kind of bean pudding served with polenta. The procedure to cook this dish is quite elaborate, since it numbers a lot of steps; at first leave the dried beans into cold water for a while, discard the peel 56. Specialities of the Cremasque 57. The “treccia”, a typical dessert of Crema 55. Boiling of the tortelli and then boil them into water with onion, carrot, celery and laurel. with butter, eggs, milk, sugar and spices, butter, almonds, representative example is the big When the beans are cooked, salt. Even if the recipe is known dairy Galbani in Casale Cremasco strain them, sieve them and then in all the Lombardy, where it is crushed nuggets, raisins that was founded in 1928. . add some butter to form a kind called in different ways, the local and candied citron, of pudding. Warm and cook the variants contribute to render it pudding, adding some more butter unique. Besides the “pà mei” there which are all mixed not to let the mixture stick to the are the “stracadent” and the “oss together. bowl. The bean pudding is usually da mort”, desserts made of flour, Admirable geometries of served warm together with polenta. sugar, almonds and nuggets. But Also this speciality could be mixed the taste Another typical autumnal dish is the the top of the confectionery of our up with similar preparations The different kinds of cheese are “Salamì dei morti e Tetui”, which is territory are the “Spongarda” and of other Lombard areas. Our not the only specialities of the usually eaten in local houses and the “Bertolina”; the last is a typical route through the flavours of the territory; in fact, a lot of other foods in the restaurants of the Cremasque autumn cake that is realised filling Cremasque could be much longer are worthy of being mentioned. in November. The Salamì dei morti the dough with grapes, usually of but the synthetic descriptions we Rabbits and geese, which are (dead people’s little salami) are American Grape; although the have given you leave deliberately usually cooked with cabbages, little, fresh sausages that are boiled “Bertolina” is considered to be part room for individual discoveries poultry, frogs, snails, and river fish into water and laurel. They are of the “pan ross” and “pan con of unexpected gastronomic such as the “bòss”, a kind of fish served together with white beans, l’uga” family, i.e. a group of desserts panoramas, leading the curious that is usually cleaned, dried, fried which are first boiled and then put made of dough and grapes, which tourist and the expert gastronaut in a pan and then served with a in a pan with a mixture of olive oil, are typical of the Lombard region, through delighting experiences that fresh salad, or the Alborelle, which carrots, celery and onions. When its particular taste and composition will tickle the palate and invite them are fried, covered with flour and the mixture boils, the sausages are render it different from all the to visit our territory again. then put into the vinegar for a night. added into the pan to amalgamate other products of the family. The A typical autumn dish with Savoy all the ingredients and flavours. “Bertolina” actually is one of the so cabbages is the “Pipetto”: the Serve the dish warm. called “boundary products”, that loaves of this particular cabbage is, its name represents two different are first boiled in salty water, and dishes in the near cities of Crema then they are minced and cooked Sweet insinuations and Cremona. into a good amount of butter. Now we focus on the desserts, When the Savoy cabbages are which are not less good than the The “Spongarda” is ready to be eaten you just have dishes we have already spoken another autumn dessert to add a mixture made of an egg about. A good conclusion of the scrambled with a handful of grated aforementioned November menu of our territory; its name Grana cheese, like when you want is the “pà mei”, literally “millet comes from the noun to cook an omelette. Amalgamate bread”; its name derives from the the ingredients and then wipe the 18th century, when it was prepared “sponga”, i.e. a sponge, “Pipetto” with some grated cheese. with millet flours, which today even if its dough is solid. Traditionally it is served hot with has been substituted by a mix of polenta, which is cornmeal mush, or corn flour and wheat flour, mixed It is made of flour, sugar, 58. “Treccia”, “Spongada” and Tortelli of the Cremasque

58 The gastronomic island The gastronomic island 59 How not to get lost…

Hotels SPINO D’ADDA CAPRALBA Amos Platz Circolino Artigiana Pizze Adda Hotel La Torretta via Mazzini, 80 via Montello, 25 via Brescia, 88 CASALE CREMASCO S.S. Paullese, 412 via Maggiore, 16 Tel. 0373.83814 Tel. 0373.250710 Tel. 0373.81522 loc. Ponte Adda fraz. Farinate VIDOLASCO Mostarda Ferriera B. B. Pizza Tel. 0373.980401 Tel. 0373.450263 Arpini via Macallè, 12 via Gaeta, 15 via Boldori, 4 via Roma, 48 Severgnini Tel. 0373.80834 Tel. 0373.84667 Tel. 0373.203200 Tel. 0373.455101 via Crema, 2 (solo a mezzogiorno) Restaurants Gobbato Pia Corea Tel. 0373.450030 CREMA Zafferano via Podgora, 2 via Camporelle BAGNOLO via IV Novembre, 51 Tel. 0373.80891 loc. Sabbioni Palace CASALE CREMASCO CREMASCO Tel. 0373.256115 Tel. 0373.30288 via Cresmiero, 10 VIDOLASCO Il Belfiore Gold Lion Tel. 0373.81487 La Nostrana Spagnolo Pata Negra via A. De Gasperi, 53 Fantasia Ristorante via G. Mazzini, 6 via Umberto I, 30 via XI Febbraio, 38 Tel. 0373.201693 via Piacenza, 97 Ponte di Rialto Tel. 0373.648098 fraz. Vidolasco fraz. S. Bernardino Tel. 0373.84704 via Cadorna, 5/7 Il Fante Chiar Di Luna Tel. 0373.455394 Tel. 0373.85967 Tel. 0373.82342 via del Fante, 23 Guadalcanal via A. Manzoni, 18 Arpini Zanzibar fraz. S. Stefano via Crocicchio Park Hotel Tel. 0373.649665 Residence via Roma, 48 via Miglioli Tel. 0373.200131 fraz. S. Stefano Tel. 0373.455101 Tel. 0373.85185 Tel. 0373.202300 via IV Novembre, 51 CAMISANO Osteria del Pellegrino Tel. 0373.86353 Il Sicomoro Maosi v.le S. Maria della CREMA Il Botteghino via Trieste, 55 via Izano, 2/A Croce, 4 Antica Hostelleria di American Bar p.za Garibaldi, 36 Tel. 0373.77102 Tel. 0373.250821 Tel. 0373.86379 S. Bernardino via XX Settembre, 34 Tel. 0373.256812 (solo sera) via Izano, 2/A Red Lion Tel. 0373.84772 Self-Service Gest Isola Bella fraz. San Bernardino via Marconi, 19 (solo a mezzogiorno) via G. La Pira, 12 Osteria del Rum via Griffini, 22 Tel. 0373.80782 Tel. 0373.778053 Tel. 0373.202668 p.za Trento e Trieste, 12 Blitz Tel. 0373.83182 Tel. 0373.257289 piazzale Rimembranze Self-Service S. Luigi OFFANENGO CAPERGNANICA La Luna Express Tel. 0373.85166 via Bottesini, 4 Osteria del Botero Albergo Trattoria Da Rosetta via Crispi, 6 Tel. 0373.257101 via Ginnasio, 4 Mantovani via Roma, 18 Bosco Tel. 0373.82413 (solo a mezzogiorno) Tel. 0373.87911 via Circonvallazione Tel. 0373.238118 via IV Novembre, 111 La Luna Nuova Sud, 1 Tel. 0373.82684 Self-Service Sodexho Portanuova Trattoria di via IV Novembre, 46 Tel. 0373.243763 via M. di Canossa, 12 via Chiodo, 10 Campagna Cinese Oriente Tel. 0373.80877 Tel. 0373.86880 Tel. 0373.20315 via Guelfi, 19 via Da Ceri, 81 SONCINO (solo a mezzogiorno) La Vecchia Luna Tel. 0373.238370 Tel. 0373.30193 Stati Uniti Glam Hotel p.za Duomo, 5 Belvedere via E. Martini, 10 P. & B. Cinese Pechino Tel. 0373.259683 via Piacenza, 52 Tel. 0373.82675 via Milano, 25 via Cresmiero, 6 Tel. 0373.80856 Tel. 0374.83541 Tel. 0373.81864

60 How not to get lost How not to get lost 61 Lo Scoglio IZANO Salvia e Rosmarino Trattoria Cooperativa Ombrianello Cascina Gilli v.le S. Maria, 13 Osteria Giosano via XXV Aprile, 81/3 via Melotta, 53 via Ombrianello, 21 c.na Gilli, 1 Tel. 0373.84838 p.za G. Marconi, 2 Tel. 0373.252591 Tel. 0374.85683 Tel. 0373.298016 Tel. 0373.965912 Tel. 0373.789005 Mezzo Pizzeria Loghetto c.na SERGNANO TRESCORE via Milano, 75 Il Fontanile Loghetto Nuovo Bosco CREMASCO Production Tel. 0373.230869 via del Fontanone via Milano, 4 Laghetto Bistek of local Tel. 0373.244072 Tel. 0373.230209 King via Provinciale, 50 v.le De Gasperi, 31 specialities via Cavalli, 5 Tel. 0373.455396 Tel. 0373.273046 Le Garzide OFFANENGO Tel. 0373.201695 via Cantoni, 7 CAPRALBA Ciccì Coccò Ristorante Dell’Albero Trattoria Del Fulmine fraz. San Bernardino Il Pascolo Pepe Verde via S. Lorenzo, 18/F c.na Colomberone, via Don G. Carioni, 12/A Tel. 0373.250066 via Panizzardo, 2 p.za Benvenuti, Tel. 0373.780341 fraz. Trezzolasco Tel. 0373.273103 Tel. 0373.450708 loc. Ombriano Tel. 0373.455385 Oasi Capriccio RICENGO Tel. 0373.30142 via S. Lorenzo, 22/A Ristorante Tiraboschi via A. De Gasperi, 12 L’Asina Felice CREMA Santa Lucia Tel. 0373.789963 via G. Giana, 11 Tel. 0373.273216 via Pesadori, 4 Armonia Service via Bramante, 106 Tel. 0373.41625 loc. Castello Soc. Coop Guerini Mary Tel. 0373.201685 Tel. 0373.267663 via Stazione, 18 via Cavour, 1 SPINO D’ADDA Trattoria Del Cervo Tel. 0373.251256 Speranza Tel. 0373.780257 Paredes Y Cereda via G. Marconi, 2 ROMANENGO via Crocifissa di Rosa, 4 Az. Apistica Fiore del via Roma, 4 Tel. 0374.71110 Prola Pierluigi Tel. 0373.84702 PIERANICA Moso Tel. 0373.980850 strada Sabbioni, 4 Croce Di Malta via XX Settembre, 95 Il Pappagallo TRIGOLO Tel. 0373.72182 via Vailate, 57 Porcospino Tel. 0373.30453 via Cappuccini, 32 Trattoria Italia Tel. 0373.71581 via Roma, 50/A loc. Sabbioni via Canevari, 17 SONCINO Az. Agricola Corte Tel. 0373.980571 Tel. 0373.30299 RICENGO Tel. 0374.370107 S. Alessandro dei Monaci Osteria Zuffetti c.na S. Alessandro via Cantoni, 1 Naso Rosso SONCINO Pancapanna via per Ricengo, via Caduti del Cielo, 1 Tel. 338.3139107 p.le Rimembranze, Aquila d’Oro via Roma, 67 fraz. Bottaiano Tel. 0374.84176 13 /14 via Maggiore, 16 Tel. 0374.370933 Az. Agricola Lunghi Tel. 0373.267727 Tel. 0373.257955 Tel. 0374.84220 Del Cortese Mario

Al Castello via Melotta, 57 via P. Donati, 48 Oca Nera La Cantina via Castello, 4 Green Farms Tel. 0374.84836 Tel. 0373.80351 via Stazione, 118 via Brescia, 10 Tel. 0373.267725 Tel. 0373.204708 Tel. 0374.85020 El Cascinet dè Mondo Le Garzide CAPERGNANICA L’Ignorante via Gazzuoli, 5 via Cantoni, 7 Il Ridottino Antica Rocca Cascina Arcobaleno via Gavazo, 4 Tel. 0374.84208 Tel. 0373.250066 via A. Fino, 1 via C. Battisti, 1 via SS. Trinità, 14 Tel. 0373.267950 Tel. 0373.256891 Tel. 0374.85672 Tel. 0373.238112 Fienil dei Frati La Costa via S. Maria, 6 via Piacenza, 137/139 CREMOSANO ROMANENGO Campacavallo CAPRALBA fraz. Gallignano Tel. 0373.86258 Legori Alessandro Bar Trattoria via Brescia, 30 Il Pascolo Tel. 0374.860956 via Pradone Invernizzi Tel. 0374.85053 Istituto Agrario via Panizzardo, 2 Tel. 0373.274440 p.za A. Gramsci, 13 Stanga La Pedrera Tel. 0373.450708 SPINO D’ADDA Tel. 0373.270333 v.le S. Maria della Trattoria Black Moon via Brescia, 23 La Fraccina Croce, 23/C via , 18 Pianeta Bulldog Tel. 0374.85785 CREMA c.na Fraccina Tel. 0373.257970 Tel. 0373.273102 via Circonvallazione, 1 La Costa loc. Fracina Quagliodromo di Tel. 0373.270333 via Piacenza, 137/139 Tel. 0373.965050 Ristorante Savado Gallignano OFFANENGO Tel. 0373.86258 Tel. 0373.965166 via Pradone, 38 Harlem via Casello, 12 La Bottega Naturale Tel. 0373.274581 via G. Romolo, 13 Tel. 0374.860938 Gennari Laura La Fornace via Europa, 3 Tel. 0373.270377 via Palestro, 3 c.na Fornace, 1 Tel. 0373.244502 Saragat Tel. 0373.86258 Tel. 0373.965939 via Milano, 27 Tel. 0374.85649

62 How not to get lost How not to get lost 63 ROMANENGO Bike repairing Apicoltura Zipoli via Roma, 4 BAGNOLO Tel. 333.3722276 CREMASCO Pianeta Bici SERGNANO via Primo Maggio, 8 Az. Agricola Manenti Tel. 0373.234112 Enzo & Luigi via Dossello, 21 CREMA Tel. 347.8984351 Cicli Scotti Superbicimarket TRESCORE via Mercato, 10 CREMASCO Tel. 0373.83274 Salumificio Cagnana v.le A. Moro, 7 SERGNANO Tel. 0373.273052 Imd Italia 0373.273357 via L. Belmonte, 12 Tel. 0373.455175 Az. Agr. e Caseificio Eredi Carioni Francesco via Desgioi, 5 Tel. 0373.290297

TRIGOLO Az. Agricola Brugnole c.na Brugnole Tel. 0374.370126

SALVIROLA (passa itinerario) Le Alberelle via c.na Albera Tel. 0373.72167

64 How not to get lost