RUNNING the FOND DU LAC RIVER by Blair Richardson Photos by Blair Richardson and Austin Marshall

Winter 2006 Vol. 33 No.4 Quarterly Journal of the Wilderness Canoe Association

Blair Richardson and Austin Marshall in high water RUNNING THE FOND DU LAC RIVER by Blair Richardson Photos by Blair Richardson and Austin Marshall

Introdnction begun, after a gestational period of 15 years I We had planned to do this trip in 1988 but were forced to can- In 1985, I had written to Eric Morse, the author of "Fur cel when one group member injured a shoulder and I relocated Trade Canoe Routes of Canada Then and Now," asking for a to Eastern Canada. The idea stayed alive and a new group was copy of his trip journal. He very kindly did provide a copy, recruited in 2003. It included Austin Marshall from Yellowknife, which recounted the 1957 trip of the group known as the me and my son Graham from Toronto, Ian Malcolm and his son "Voyageurs" from Reindeer Lake to Stony Rapids. They covered David from Kingston, and Bill Hosford from Ann Arbor, 400 miles in three weeks. In his letter Eric said, "Though it was Michigan. nearly 30 years ago, I still have vivid memories of this trip. It On August 2, 2003, in the early evening, we launched our was a particularly good one: scenery, rapids, game." The loaded canoes into Collins Creek where it intersects "Voyageurs" were a well-known group in Ottawa. Members Saskatchewan Highway 905 and leads to Points North Landing were Dennis Coolican, President of the Canadian Bank Note and Stony Rapids. Our descent of the Fond du Lac River had Company; Eric Morse National Director of the Association of Canadian Clubs; Sigurd Olson, President Thompson and his two Dene guides, east by the Shield, its glacial-till fea- of the National Parks Association of Paddy and Kosdaw, nearly died. They tures best characterize the River, in- America; Elliot Rodger, former Vice-chief were tracking the canoe upriver, past cluding Tyrell's ispatinows, (meaning of General Staff; Omond Solandt, Vice rapids that now bear Thompson's name. conspicuous hills in Cree), drumlins, President, Canadian National Railways; In a mix-up, the canoe drifted over a 12- and hummocks of moraine. As well, and Tyler Thompson, U.S. Ambassador foot ledge, with Thompson still standing there are many prominent eskers in to Canada. The Voyageurs enjoyed media in it (the canoe). They lost much of their the area, some up to 80 kilometers coverage for what was then an uncom- equipment and Thompson cut his foot long. The soil is sandy and the dry- mon summer undertaking. On Black very badly He tore the canvas tent into ness of the area makes for extensive Lake, they fought headwinds to reach Fir three pieces to give them protection from forest fires. Thus jack pine is the Island. "As we reached the last bay and the black flies. Ravenous after several dominant forest along the River. This the wind dropped," Eric wrote, "an air- more days' travel, they roasted and ate open parkland commonly has an craft with Roger Phillips and cameraman eagle chicks, which made them violently under story of lichen, blueberry, bear- Hills came in to interview us." (I believe ill. If they hadn't stumbled into a Dene berry and sand heather, among other this was a CBC interview.) family encampment, they would have small shrubs and herbs. Some black died. They arrived safely back at their de- spruce occur on north-facing slopes Intent of this Report parture point, Fairfield House, a trading of drumlin and eskers, while bogs are This report is intended to highlight the post which is located on the Churchill full of stunted black spruce and Fond du Lac River trip, and to arouse in- River, downstream from the confluence tamarack. (1) terest in canoeing it. Secondly, it de- with the Reindeer River. One of the most 1. Laurel Archer, Northern Saskat- scribes our trip with sufficient detail to remarkable figures in Canadian history, chewan Canoe Trips: A Guide to enable readers to assess whether a trip on Thompson spent nearly three decades Fifteen Wilderness Rivers, Firefly the river would meet their expectations surveying and mapping over 1.2 million Books, Boston Mills Press, 2003 (and requirements). Thirdly, it is in- square miles of what were then aborigi- tended to provide information that nallands. Given the remoteness and the pres- would be helpful in planning a trip. In addition to Thompson, J B. Tyrell ence of fishing lodges, we expected good (who edited the journals of Thompson, fishing, too, for walleye, northern pike, Why we chose this River Turnor and Hearne) stated that the list of and lake trout. Laurel promised: "the We wanted a remote wilderness trip, on early explorers included Philip Turnor in best camping there is on one of the most a river that featured white water to match 1791, Peter Fidler in 1807, A. S beautiful rivers I've ever paddled." We our paddling abilities. The Fond du Lac Cochrane in 1881, and Tyrell himself in were hooked! River flows out of Wollaston Lake, north- 1892 and 1893. west to Lake Athabasca. This is far from The varied geography and natural Planning Resources the prairies, in the northern most part of beauty of the region also appealed to us. The resource material to help us plan our Saskatchewan, tucked up against the Here is Laurel Archer's description: trip was plentiful. Thompson's narrative border with the NWT. The river crosses was found in the 1962 edition of his jour- the traditional lands of the Dene and has For the most part, the Fond du Lac nal published by the Champlain Society only a few settlements, along with fish- flows through the Athabasca Plain, It was edited by Richard Glover and con- ing lodges on Hatchet and Wollaston except for a short distance from its tained J B. Tyrell's footnotes from the Lakes and a uranium mine at Collins Bay headwaters and near its end, where Champlain Society's 1916 edition. Nick on Wollaston Lake. the familiar outcrops of precambrian Nickels, the now-deceased founder of The historical significance of the river bedrock and black spruce of the taiga Che-Mun, The Journal of Canadian appealed to us, mainly because of David shield appear. This makes for the va- Wilderness Canoeing, sent us a photo- Thompson's vivid description of his trip riety in scenery and river characteris- copy of: A Wild Rivers Survey Descriptive in 1796. He was more interested in ex- tics. The first section of the FdL bor- Report, published by the National Parks ploring than fur-trading and proposed ders the Selwyn Lake Upland of the Service in 1972. Also helpful was Gary the trip to his superiors in the Hudson's Taiga Shield, which lies to the east and joanie McGuffiiJ.'s 1988 book enti- Bay Company who wanted to know if until just after Hatchet Lake. The tled, Where Rivers Run, as was Bill the Fond du Lac River was a shorter River bumps up against the Shield Layman's Internet article entitled Paddling route than the Churchill/Clearwater again above Burr Falls, but in a much Saskatchewans Fond du Lac River. It led rivers to transport furs from Fort more dramatic fashion. Where the us to Eric Munsterhjelm's book about Chipewyan in the Athabasca Country River intersects the harder rock of the trapping in the area during the 1930's, (now Alberta) to York Factory It wasn't, Tazin Lake Upland there are large entitled, The Wind and the Caribou," for reasons that are abundantly clear in rapids or falls, as the rock is not easily Sigurd Olson's 1963 book, Runes of the reading Thompson's journal. On their re- eroded. North, gave another perspective on the turn trip from Lake Athabasca, Though bordered on the north and 1957 trip by the Voyageurs. The May,

2 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 1996 article in National Geographic

about a trip on the Fond du Lac to cele- 60th Parallel brate the 200th anniversary of David Thompson's journey contained beautiful photographs of Manitou Falls. By far the most helpful resource was Laurel Archer and her then-about -to-be-published book. Via email, she answered countless questions in detail and with patience after sending the text of the relevant chapters Fond du Lac from her book. - Porcupine River

Our Planning Process Choosing the route, especially the put-in and the take-out, was a challenge. We had to juggle the length of time available for paddling, the daily distance to be paddled on the river, the cost of charter Fond du Lac River flights, and the travel time to and from Northern Saskatchewan. As we commu- nicated back and forth by email, the options and the trade-offs became clearer to us. Also, we benefited from Laurel's advice. Andy Eikel at Points North was very helpful with options and costs. Points North Base was established in 1984 to SASKATCHEWAN provide a truck/air freight link to the fly- in communities on Wollaston and Athabasca lakes. It became a major service centre for the region, expediting for was to be the community of Black Lake, flights out of Saskatoon on August 17, so fishing lodges and exploration compa- with a shuttle up the road to the airport they both would be back at work on nies. The 6,000-foot airstrip serves the at Stony Rapids. This would enable us to August 18. Bill and I would wait in McLean Lake uranium mine as well as fly out on a scheduled flight instead of a Points North Landing for the canoes to the area fishing lodges. Points North also more expensive charter flight. We arrive while the others drove on to provides meals and accommodations for arranged with Points North to truck our Saskatoon to make the flight connec- workers, fishermen, travelers and for canoes from Black Lake back to Points tions. those using Points North Air floatplane North Base for only $50, a fraction of I was concerned that the schedule was services. Ric Driediger of Horizons what air transport would have cost. tight with only 12-13 days to paddle 300 Unlimited, a guide/outfitter located in The plan was for me to drive out west km, knowing that we could become Missinipe on Lac La Ronge, was also with most of the food and equipment, windbound on Wollaston or Black Lake. helpful. Kathy Newton, Saskatchewan picking up Bill in Sault Ste. Marie and But the flight reservations meant that Government Information Services, gave then meeting up with Ian and David who more time on the water could not be al- us details on accommodations en route, would be in Winnipeg. The two-car, lotted. Laurel's caution about becoming as well as road conditions and highway two-canoe convoy would drive 780 km windbound was prophetic. services available along 102/905. to Saskatoon and pick up Graham and We planned a IS-day menu. Austin We decided to put in at Collins Creek. Austin who would arrive on flights from and Bill each volunteered to bring two This avoided the expense of flying-in by Toronto and Calgary respectively. We dinners. Austin, our fly fisherman, also charter and it shortened the distance to would then drive 380 km to Lac La brought his special batter mix for frying be traveled on Wollaston Lake. (There is Ronge and overnight at the Riverside fish. We dried some hamburger and Bill road access to Wollaston much further Motel. The final leg was 475 km to brought lots of his own jerky and other south on the Lake.) Points North agreed Points North Landing. We would put in treats. Breakfasts rotated through oatmeal to provide secure parking for our vehi- either late August 2 or early morning porridge, pancakes, granola cereal and cles in their compound and to shuttle us August 3 and take out at Black Lake in scrambled eggs, all supplemented with back to Collins Creek, along with the time to catch a flight from Stony Rapids wonderful coffee made from coffee beans rental canoe that Ric Driediger was leav- back to Points North Landing on August roasted and ground at Cook's in ing for us at Points North. The take-out 16. Graham and Austin would catch Kingston. Lunch rotated through crack-

NASTAWGAN WINTER 3 riffles, some braided channel and some shallow sections where we walked beside the canoes. The water was surprisingly warm and we were very lucky that water levels were much higher than normal. On Collins Bay, we could see the mine buildings and the mine tailings on Harrison Peninsula. On the lake, we turned north, pushed by a light tail wind. We stopped for a swim in cold, clear water and camped on a sandy beach. It was a 29-km day

Red Willow Rapids We were up early to paddle the big lake piece before the winds came up. Austin took a compass bearing to make sure we didn't miss the outlet to the Fond du Lac River. At the beginning, the river was wide with a noticeable current. We were Graham and Austin in a (II looking for the boulder garden at Red Willow Rapids but we paddled right over ers/breadlbannock with peanut butter, wife, Margaret, answered a plaintive them. It was only then that we realized tuna, salami, cheese and hummus, to- phone call in Yellowknife: "Where is that the water levels were much higher gether with crystal drink mix. Dinners Austin? Isn't he with you in Saskatoon?" than normal. After paddling through rif- were soup followed by pasta/potatoes/ Luckily, he showed up shortly afterward fles and a couple of CIl's, we reached rice, vegetable and hamburger/corned and we were on our way again. The next Tromburg Bay beef/shrimp. Dessert was always cookies morning, we had breakfast in the Motor for those with a sweet tooth. Lodge in Lac La Ronge. It featured Tromburg BayIWillow Rapids The food went into labeled Ziploc sausages made with wild rice harvested We headed west across Tromburg Bay in bags for each meal and for snacks; these locally (very tasty.) While we ate, the steadily deteriorating weather. The rain were placed into plastic pails with lids local Polaris snowmobile dealer warned and wind from the north had made nav- and packed into Duluth packsacks. (As us about the condition of the gravel igation difficult and we were looking for our old canvas Duluth packs wear out, highway, saying he would never take a a small island among several. Luckily, the they are replaced with Ostrom red nylon car on that road. lan, driving a Nissan island had a small cove where we landed. Duluth packs.) The plastic pails are not Maxima, blanched. However, the gravel We overturned the canoes, wedging perfectly waterproof, but on the other road was in good condition and we made them between the spruces and got a tarp hand, they make great seats! good time. We kept a sharp lookout for up over the canoes, which gave some We planned to take three canoes: one the B carriers big semi-trailer trucks car- protection from the high winds and rain. 17-Ioot Novacralt ABS with spray cover, rying uranium ore which traveled fast Next morning, we took extra time to one IS-foot Novacraft ABS, and a rental and occupied the centre of the road, dry out and fish a little. We were on the canoe - a 17- foot ABS Prospector from never slowing or yielding to oncoming water about 11 a.m., heading into rap- Trailhead. We took three tents and a traffic. idly freshening winds. We did appreciate large kitchen shelter. We planned to use After the shuttle from Points North the warm sun! We crossed three progres- a cooking fire with a primus stove as Landing, during which we sighted a sively larger bays before our lunch stop back-up. Kitchen equipment included a black bear, we managed to get on the and after lunch, one smaller bay before reflector oven, (made in Kingston using water about 7 p.m. and were grateful for turning west into the river again. We ran Rolf Kraiker's specifications) for bread the good light late into the evening. We the first Cll and scouted the second be- and muffins and a large fry pan with lid made camp after a couple of kilometers fore running it (while an eagle circled for making bannock. Austin rented a and cooked up fresh chicken, potatoes, overhead, a fish clutched in its talons.) satellite phone in Yepowknife for emer- mushrooms and green beans for our first We made camp on Corson Lake and gency communications. dinner. What a relief to be underway, fi- with stomachs full, admired the beauti- nally! ful sunset. Getting to the Put-In Everything went pretty much according Big Lake Padding Corson to Crooked Lakes to plan, although Austin didn't arrive on It was a 14 km paddle to Collins Bay; We got up feeling tired from the previous his designated flight from Calgary. His this stretch on the creek was fun - some day's paddling but Graham revived us

4 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 with his wonderful pancakes. He says the Crooked Lake, but this changed as we sunsets ever, the water in the bay as secret is to stir the batter very little and turned the corner and headed north. The smooth as glass, the birds (loons, gulls to let it sit so it rises. After a short pad- river narrowed and we ran a couple of and arctic terns) finally silent. That night, dle, we reached the rapids at the outlet rapids, then rafted up for lunch as we Ian woke us all up so we could view the of Corson Lake. To our surprise, there paddled north on Waterfound Bay. We Aurora Borealis streaming overhead. was a big and well-used campsite that could see the ClI/III rapid from a long had not been mentioned in Laurel's way away and ran it unscathed after a Thompson Rapids/Manitou Falls book She told us later that the omission long scout/discussion. We camped above We spent a leisurely morning on the was on purpose, because of bears drawn Flett Rapids with rain threatening, so we beach, enjoying the sunshine. We baked to the campsite by fishing offal) Some of got the tents and kitchen tarp up quickly. muffins in the reflector oven and ate us ran the rapid, a CIlI+ with a ledge. We Sheltered from the ensuing shower, Bill scrambled eggs, to which we added were very glad for the spray cover. cooked his spaghetti sauce with Korean cheddar cheese, bacon bits, onions and Further downriver, we decided to mushrooms. What a hitl David caught Italian spices. Graham disappeared with portage a ClI, except that there was no another pickerel and Austin baked straw- the satellite phone to make a surprise call portage. The water was so high that side berry shortcake using the reflector oven. to his girlfriend on her birthday. channels were running through the trees. A 34km day' Surprisingly, he had turned down our Knee-deep in muddy water, we manhan- Flett Rapids were rated CI+ and was offer of a group chorus of Happy dled the packs up to others standing on no problem. We paddled north on Birthday as a fine way to start the call. an embankment. Bill had reconnoitered Kosdaw Lake, named for one of David She said later it was the best birthday and recommended a route through a Thompson's Dene guides and past Red present ever. burn area on higher ground. We left Bank Rapids. It was a beautiful, sunny We were on the river at noon. I strug- packs along the route to guide us. The day and we stopped for lunch on high, gled to remain calm about our late de- footing was very bad, with deadfalls lying sandstone cliffs overlooking the river. We parture. Very shortly, we arrived at every which way in the burn. At the end swam, snoozed, fished, and did laundry. Thompson Rapids, where David of the portage, we had lunch on the pink The beautiful weather ended abruptly as Thompson had had his upset. It is in granite rocks overlooking a bay where we entered Otter Lake and we paddled three sections: ClI/III, ClI, and CI+, we could see the gigantic haystacks at the north for 2 km into strong headwinds which we ran after scouting. We ran a bottom of the main chute. It was a good and driving rain and then turned west. CI, CI, two CIs and a ClI, and then pro- spot for our fishermen. One more The rain slowly abated and to the south ceeded cautiously, looking for the runnable rapid, a CIIIIIY,with a small is- we could see the sunlight beaming portage around the CIV ledge. It was on land in the middle and then we were in through a hole in the clouds - a beautiful river left in a small inlet and it went up a Crooked Lake. We paddled past a camp- vista. We camped on a beach in Otter IS-foot sandy embankment. A good site with two boats on shore from the Lake, one of Laurel's Five Star campsites campsite on the flat sandstone shelf over- Hatchet Lake fishing lodge and took the and watched one of the most beautiful looked the CIV It looked fearsome, but next one down the lake. That evening, we discussed our rate of travel, which was a little slower than planned. I was concerned about possible windbound days slowing us down further. We decided to keep our daily target at 23 krn, to get on the water by 8:30 a.m., and to change pairings in the canoes in order to even out the rate of travel. It was decided that we should try and reach the Black Lake community by Friday evening, instead of Saturday morning, thus giving us more time to make our flight from Stony Rapid.

Crooked to Otter Lakes Who needs an alarm clock? We were up shortly after 6:00 a.m., but just in case we were sleeping in, the bush pilot who was dropping off fishermen at the other campsite then took off directly toward us, flying overhead just above treetop height. We paddled into headwinds on The group after lunch

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 5 then so did the portage; we dropped the muffins with blueberries. Austin then mulus clouds were a brilliant white. Bill canoes over a ledge and then we passed took over and fried the two pike he had sat by the shore, capturing the scene in the packs down, holding onto each other filleted. Delicious! watercolour. All of a sudden, fierce, high in a human chain. winds struck, sending Bill's tent bounc- We soon reached Manitou Falls, with Perch Rapids ing like tumbleweed. We battened down the take-out a few feet from the brink of For breakfast, Graham cooked pancakes the hatches while Austin went on the left channel. The falls are truly spec- with fresh blueberries. We were on the serenely with dinner preparations. The tacular: the right channel, about 25-feet river about 10:15 a.m., heading north- winds were very strong with a few drops wide, barrels downwards, hits a sand- east through a widening channel. It was of rain and then gradually the wind and stone cliff, then runs over another ledge hot and sunny with no wind and we the white caps on the lake subsided. as it turns left, converging with the left soon doffed our shirts. We rafted up for Around 8:45 p.m., we were treated to a channel. A bend right, then another big lunch, drifting a kilometer or so. Perch glorious blue and gold sunset, lined with drop of foamy, churned water to the big Rapid was a Cll with two ledges, which burning orange along the western hori- bay below. we ran on river left. Below, there was a zon. We went to bed early, planning for CI, then two Clls, both with ledges. an early start around 5 a.m. on the big Brink and Brassy Rapids Shortly after, we spotted a campsite on a lake segment. The next day, we passed Pilot's Lodge on point and came around it in fast current, At 4:30 a.m., I awoke to the wind river right, then came to Brink Rapid, a intending to eddy out and scout the blowing strongly out of the northwest. Cll-- with ledges above the island and a campsite. We startled a huge bull moose There were white caps on the water, so, long Cll below. These are now "Austin's standing in the shallows and he turned back to bed. We made breakfast around Surprise Rapids." Austin and I got to and ran into cover; we could hear his 7 a.m. and it looked calm enough for shore, but to their great surprise, Graham huge rack striking the trees. By 7 p.m., paddling. But, as we consumed another and Bill went over a double ledge, ship- the mosquitoes were gone for the night three-course breakfast, the wind rose ping a lot of water. Ian and David lined and the sun was low on the horizon as steadily It blew all day We read, sat by and Graham ran it again with Austin in we watched Austin carefully fillet the fish the fire, fished, explored, snoozed, the bow straight down the tongue into to supplement our dinner. picked blueberries, and baked a bannock the haystacks below. in the cake tin using the reflector oven The scout at Brassy Rapid was difficult Bnrr Falls and Black Lake instead of the big frying pan. The last hot because of the high water, long rapid and We left Moose Point after a breakfast fea- chocolate disappeared at the mid-morn- the curve of the channel. It was really a turing muffins baked with low-bush ing break. During the evening, the wind Cll-. and we shipped a lot of water, even cranberries. It was warm and sunny as picked up again. We decided to pack up with the spray cover. The impact of the we proceeded northeasterly to the mouth as much as we could and go to bed early, big waves opened both of the spray of the Porcupine River and turned west. so that if the wind abated during the skirts, even though these were secured The river was wide, with many islands to night, we could depart. around our waists. At camp that evening, manoeuver around. From some distance, we agreed the day's highlight was the we could hear Burr Falls and we strained Paddling by Moonlight peregrine falcon Sighting. anxiously to spot the portage. Happily, By 12:45 a.m., the wind had died and there was a red canoe at the take-out, the moonlight was bright. We quickly Hawkrock and North Rapids drawing us in like a beacon. The portage, broke camp and got on the water. The next day, the sky was dark gray as about a kilometer in length, ran through Navigating was simple. Keep the shore we got on the water and paddled west a bog, up a hillside and then it de- silhouette on the left and travel west. It into a light wind. After Hawkrock scended gradually to the river. The after- was magical: the silver moonlight lit- Rapids, an easy CI, we stopped for noon was very hot, but the bugs weren't tered the water surface like flower lunch. The rain was pelting down and too bad. We paddled up to the foot of petals, the moon shone overhead, and the temperature was dropping. We de- the falls for photos and a few casts and Mars was its brightest in 250 years (ac- cided to stop early that day, so we would camped on the shore of Black Lake, just cording to Graham.) The Aurora be able to brew some tea under the east of the outlet of the river. As was Borealis was spectacular: it felt like a kitchen tarp. The river channel widened often the case on this trip, the event of special showing just for us. We bobbed and we turned north towards Table the day was the weather. As Austin along in a gentle swell, unable to antici- Rock. In North Rapids, we shipped a lot cooked jambalaya for dinner in a pleas- pate the wave action. Not long after of water and bumped as we went over ant sunny evening, we watched a huge 2 a.m., a glow on the eastern horizon one ledge. We camped at Table Rock; the bank of cloud over the north shore of the spread slowly behind us. We stopped rain stopped and the wind helped dry lake, many kilometers away It gradually around 5:30 a.m. and built a fire for everything on the clothesline. After the moved in, creating a sunset effect as it breakfast, enjoying the warmth in our ham and macaroni and cheese, out came hid the sun. Underneath the cloudbank chilled limbs as daylight arrived. Bill an- the reflector oven for fresh-baked we could see rain falling. Behind us, cu- nounced 21 km as our progress and

6 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 everyone was encouraged. Back on the Stony RapidIPoints North We were given a room in the ATCO water, we paddled steadily, helped along At the tiny airport, Trans-West Air said trailer complex. The dinner served buffet by the swell. On the far right shore, we they could fly us back to Points North in a style, was excellent. Bill was asleep before could see a lodge and the outlet to Fond Piper Navajo, on a scheduled flight, pro- 8 p.m. du Lac, which leads to Elizabeth Falls. vided we took only 600 pounds of gear. We gradually crossed over to the right Luckily, it didn't matter that we were a day Trip Costs shore in calm water and unloaded at the ahead of schedule. The rest of our gear The total group cost was just under public dock at Black Lake, population would be flown to Lac La Ronge for pick- $2,700, excluding canoe rental and travel 1,300. We made inquiries and some up on our way south. The flight was an costs to and from Saskatoon. Thus, the time later, Boniface Robillard arrived in hour, for just under $1,000 for all of us. per-person cost was just under $450.00. his white Ford Excursion. He enlisted a As agreed, Bill and I stayed behind at colleague with a pick-up and soon we Points North base to await the truck trans- Conclusion were bouncing along a dusty gravel port bringing our canoes, while the other It was a grand adventure; for me, the road to the airport at Stony Rapid, four made a beeline for the Saskatoon air- highlight was the night paddle on Black 20 km away. port. (After final photos, of course.) Lake under the Aurora Borealis.

Words from Mr. Canoehead Greetings all. I hope everyone is enjoying a fine November and are looking forward to the winter season and upcoming WCA events. Speaking of events, a fine time was had by all at the Fall Meeting at the Minden Wild Water Preserve and at the Wine and Cheese at the Toronto Sailing Club. Surprisingly almost 40 hardy souls braved the weather to enjoy the fall colours and to undertake a bit of paddling or hiking in Minden.The Wine and Cheese was a great success, as usual. Regarding the Fall Meeting, a big thanks goes out to the trip leaders: Bill Ness, Ray Laughlen, Scott Card, and Martin Heppner (and his trusty sub-guide Bob Bignall.) Saturday evening found us all enjoying a hearty catered meal and the presentation by Joe Bourgeois of Akuni Adventures. His fascinatmq presentation, followed by a question and answer period, dealt with the concept of warm winter camping. If you were not in at- tendance and would like to experience this type of camping, be sure to check out the outings page as I see one is planned. An additional thanks goes to Wendy Grater who gave a scintillating talk on a wide variety of adventures that her company Black Feather organises. Last but not least, the AGM is coming up and we have one of your favourite speakers this year. Look for the application on the cover of Nastawgan and on the website. Until next Nastawgan, happy padding dreams!

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 7 ADVENTURE ON THE UPPER BACK RIVER by Daniela Kosch-Bell Photos by Marilyn Sprissler

The group

JULY 4-26, 2005 through uninhabited tundra. It is a river Mission Island, we explored the boom- that can consume an entire summer. ing little city. With the same population Group members: Doug Bell, Bob as our hometown of Huntsville, 18,000, Bignell, Stephen Catlin, Gene Doug and I were happy to do the it boasts an impressive skyline of office Chorostecki, Hendrick Herfst, Allan 'lite' version of the real thing, and to be towers and creative civic architecture. Jacobs, Marilyn Sprissler taken back to Yellowknife by the resup- Big money is flowing up here. ply plane after three weeks, along with The Back River flows north-eastward Stephen. Linda Gordon would fly in to July 5 from the border of the Northwest join the rest of the group and continue Air Tindi took us to the floatplane base Tenitories through Nunavut for 1000 km, on for another three weeks to the Arctic early in the morning. Once there, we and empties into the Arctic Ocean at Ocean. had a few hours' wait until a fog bank Chantrey Inlet. It was first explored in Doug and I had a very comfortable along the route cleared out. This gave 1834 for the Hudson's Bay Company by flight from Edmonton to Yellowknife us a chance to look over Bob and George Back. on Canadian North, with hot breakfast Gene's rental canoe, which the staff as- The Back River has a powerful allure served on real china - a holdover from sured us had been carefully checked for experienced wilderness canoeists. a more gracious age of domestic air out and was all in order. It was wrapped Long, remote, with vast lakes and over 80 travel. Since we weren't involved in the in ragged burlap sacks tied with twine, sets of rapids, it flows for its entire length complicated logistics of resupplying at. not inspiring much confidence. The

8 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 packaging proved to be more truthful than the verbal assurances. The canoe 60th pa.rallel was not the Pakboat we'd been promised, but an ancient Ally folding boat which was much inferior. Not only was it too small for big Bob and Gene and their mountain of gear, it had no flota- ". Black Lake 'W*~~~ tion, and several of the aluminum tubes l> that formed the frame had been left Fond du Lac over the winter with water inside them and had burst like water pipes. To his credit, Boyd Warner quickly replaced the canoe with a gleaming, new, red Waterfound hardshell, which looked very impres- River sive at first glance. A closer look re- Fond du Lac River vealed the rocker of a whitewater playboat, an Esquif Canyon. Gene and Bob POints North were a little dismayed, thinking ahead Landing to the long stretches of wide, flat water and strong winds that would turn this banana boat into a weathervane, but it SASKATCHEWAN was too late to do anything about it now. The rest of us were glad we'd brought our own Pakboat folding canoes along! unpeopled wilderness. Flying in the di- doesn't sound like much but our food Doug and I couldn't fit into the fully rection of the pointed arm, we saw six barrels weighed 70 pounds and these loaded Twin Otter and flew in a Cessna people waving at us, and landed for a rocks were huge, ragged, and sharp, 185 instead. Our pilot was a young fel- happy reunion. There was a cold, strewn at awkward angles and tippy to low from Ontario, an accountant by strong wind from the northeast, unfor- boot. We got tired, hot and sweaty and profession who flew bush planes "for tunately the same direction that we had were happy for the calm water for the relaxation." We flew under the thick to travel for the next 530 km rest of the afternoon. We made camp cloud cover and had great views of the after only 19 km of river travel. We'd landscape. As we got further north and July 6 have to make it up later though, as we east of Yellowknife, the stunted trees of The clouds lifted by the time the boats planned to put about 40 krn a day be- the taiga slowly gave way to treeless were loaded and soon the sky and water hind us in order to reach our goal - tundra, with more water than land, and were deep blue and perfectly calm. Just Mission Island - in 20 days. That caribou trails like long ribbons con- before getting into our canoes, I re- would leave four days for being wind- necting the lakes. Ice started rimming marked that it would be nice to have a bound. the lakes, and soon some were totally sign from the river gods that they We felt grateful to George Drought ice-covered. After two and a half hours would be kind to us. When I next for lending us his tundra tunnel, a large in the air, we flew over Muskox Rapids, looked into the water I saw a three- group shelter that can withstand arctic a stretch of the Back River that we'd foot-long trout just off the sloping gran- gales and has screened windows to pro- originally considered running but did ite bank. It turned and meandered back tect us from voracious mosquitoes. We not on the advice of George Drought, and forth in front of us. If nothing else, settled in and watched as the clear sky who warned us it could be iced in. And the river gods seemed to be promising filled with mares tail clouds. he was right, the river was a foaming, us good fishing! rocky channel cut through the icy We headed off for the river exit in July 7 banks. We started looking for the rest high spirits, enchanted by the mirror- Up at 7:00 a.m. and on the river by 11 of the group at Jim Magrum Lake, calm water, drinking in the beauty of a.m. By then the sky was covered in low thinking they'd be easy to pick out on the low hills and fractured rocks clouds and there was a very strong the barren tundra, but they were around us. Our bliss was interrupted by wind from the northeast, our direction nowhere to be found. After a second our first rapid, which was unrunnable. of travel. The river was wide, more like sweep of the lake, we saw a lone tent The rental boat was lined over a sharp an endless lake, bordered by a cubist's perched on a rocky outcrop below, with ledge, but the rest of us in our fully landscape of fractured rocks. Lichens a lone figure pointing across the lake. loaded Pakboats chose to portage about covered the exposed surfaces and beds Strange, we were supposed to be in an 200 feet to a good put-in point. This of mosses, heather and dwarf shrubs;

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 9 azaleas, birch, willow and labrador tea, easy landing spots since Perkins' camp- metre. Bob and Gene were having an with tiny pink, yellow and white flow- site. We were lucky to find an adequate exhausting time in the fierce headwind. ers covered everything else. We saw spot for our huge tundra tunnel and six Again, it was hard to find a good land- four muskox silhouetted on a ridge, tents and even found a tricky little ap- ing spot through the submerged rocks. their long coats waving in the wind. proach through the boulderfield that We passed a long series of fuel guarded the shore. We'd only come 15 July 10 drums and the remains of an old min- krn today. Now we'd really have to We ran a set of rapids labelled Malley ing camp on the left shore, and then make up the miles. Rapids on the maps. Reading from came upon the same tent we'd seen George Back's diary of his 1834 trip, his from the air, on the right. A lone white July 8 crewman Malley had gotten so seri- canoe was pulled on shore. No one was Rain and a strong northeast wind kept ously lost while scouting this danger- in sight. I boldly walked up to the tent us in the tundra tunnel all day. We bless ous rapid that Back named it after him. and yelled "is anyone home." No an- George and Barbara for their generosity I couldn't square this with the level, swer. I yelled again, and a head popped in lending us this wonderful shelter. easy terrain we were passing through. out through the door. I explained that We saw Loon waiting in an eddy. we just wanted to say a neighbourly July 9 Robert must be paddling at night to hello before moving on. Robert Perkins We got up at 5 a.m., desperate now to avoid the wind. The sun was out now emerged a few minutes later, pulling on make up the lost distance, and man- and we were happy to have him pad- a purple fleece against the cold wind. aged to be off by 8:30. We're getting dling with us. There were some great Some in our group knew him and had faster and more organized at breaking rapids, all of which we scouted and read his books and seen some of the camp. The wind was still blowing from found safe routes through. According to movies he's made about the wilderness. the northeast. We saw Loon pass us Robert, the water levels were higher He and his canoe, Loon, were spending early in the morning. By 11 a.m., we than normal, which explained the huge their 11th summer on the Back River. came upon Loon and the familiar tent waves in the middle of the river and the He would get his reprovisions flown in again, but this time a large white sign lack of technical rock dodging. to Mission Island on the same plane was taped to the open wanigan, adver- We came to a long rapid which that was to take Doug and me out. We tising lemonade for 5 cents, palm read- looked to have an easy route of dark had a pleasant chat and pushed off. ing for 10, credit negotiable. We could- water to follow. Since we couldn't see The wind was getting stronger and n't pass up an offer like that and pulled the end of it, we decided to scout from the Esquif was falling behind. Bob and in. Robert served us all lemonade and the canoe. There was always an obvious Gene were strong paddlers, but having didn't even ask for money. After another route through the boulders, and we just to constantly correct the course of their pleasant chat, we pressed on. kept hopping from dark tongue to dark playboat was tiring them out. We did- We were now passing by low ridges tongue, riding some high wave trains, n't want to go any further as the river littered with dark rock slabs that looked backpaddling and ferrying to pick the was widening out into a large lake for like tombstones, leaning at odd angles next route and then rollicking onwards. the next 10 krn and would have large and giving the shoreline the look of a This went on for at least three krn It waves and whitecaps. The shore all ransacked cemetery. It was eerie. A was exciting, not knowing what sort of along here was littered with sharp rocks white tundra wolf ran along the shore, surprises the river had in store for us, just below the surface and we'd seen no keeping pace with us for about a kilo- and left us feeling exhilerated when we finally reached flat water again. Robert thanked us for letting him join us; in all these years he'd never run this set of rapids: being alone he couldn't afford to take the chance of running into trouble and so had always lined from shore. We also determined that this must the rapid Back had named after Malley. The wind became so strong that we were making little progress, and by 4 p.m. we decided to pull into shore and wait for it to die down. Bob pulled out his fishing rod and hooked a 30" trout on the first cast. He played it like a pro, tiring it out to the point where he could just reach into the water and pick it up by the gills. It was a fat, healthy thing Sneaking past the big stuff

10 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 and it fed the nine of us royally in a big shore fry-up. We relaxed in the sunshine until 7 p.m., when the wind died down enough to continue paddling. At 11 p.m., we set up the tents under a hot midsummer sun and had a great sleep. We asked Robert why he comes ex- clusively to the Back year after year. He said he thinks of the Back as his summer cottage, a place where he feels at home. He explores the tributaries, hikes the endless rolling hills, writes books and makes movies here. He strikes us as a gentle, philosophical man with a droll sense of humour, great sensitivity and a rare skill for listening. Hoping to tap into his long experience up here, I asked him if this constant northeast wind was usual. He said it's a law of canoe tripping that the wind always All this in four canoes comes from the direction you have to go in. And if it doesn't, you really have to pay for it later on. I also found out Rapids. The falls at the end of the July 14 that he has never had a bad grizzly en- portage were awesome, with room-high Cap'n Al relented today and let us sleep counter but carries a can of bear spray jets of white water surging over and in until 8 a.m. This pace was wearing on his belt at all times. around huge boulders. I couldn't be- us down. We set off at 11:15, a more lieve Al when he told me George Back civilized time. The river was starting to July 11 had actually run his two-ton rowboat give us a break too, finally running at a Hot and sunny. We had a wonderful through this maelstrom. He must have great clip through high eskers and sand breakfast of Dutch specialties thanks to had lower water levels. Al said the cas- hills. The first 10 km after Angry Tern Hendrick. There was a current now and cades looked just like they did in Back's Island (named for the divebombing we made good time to the mouth of original sketches. birds at our campsite last night) was a Beechey Lake. Robert bade us farewell wild train ride through constant class I- at this point, since the wind was now July 13 II rapids. There was no need to scout, coming straight at us, and was too Perkins pulled in just in time for break- just try to avoid the really big waves strong for a solo paddler. He'd wait fast at 7:30 and then set up his tent at and holes. Leading the way down- until it died down, probably paddling at the other end of the portage. We fin- stream, Bob and Gene showed us where night. We put 15 of this beautiful lake's ished carrying our gear (two more car- not to go. By avoiding one big wave- 50 km behind us and camped on the ries) by 1:30, and set off downstream, train on river right, they went over a west shore, in the lee of the wind. tired already. A few kilometers later, I three foot ledge on river left. A huge, saw the undulating, cinnamon form of back-curling wave was waiting for them July 12 a grizzly bear racing along the shore, in at the other end of the foaming hole, We'd expected to be windbound on this Robert's direction. What was his hurry? giving Bob a (by now much appreci- southeast facing lake, but fortune Lunch? ated) bath and dumping a load of water smiled on us and we awoke to a strong We now had a constant current, the into the stern. It took all their skill and northwest wind and blazing sunshine. river bottom sandy and studded with experience to stay upright. Not only The tailwind created a thrilling 35 km smooth rocks. Since Beechey Lake we'd was their playboat unmanageable in a stretch of surfing waves for us to ride exchanged the sharp and forbidding an- wind, their spraycover didn't have its down. We found a beautiful lunch spot gles of ice-fractured bedrock for glacier- rear opening over the seat, so Gene had on a hill on the left shore, with wolf smoothed boulders embedded in sand to sit on his Pelican camera case behind dens, a carpet of wildflowers, and long banks. High eskers and green hills cre- the actual seat, and thus could never lake views that could win photo con- ated a soft, almost pastoral landscape. kneel. Bob had no stability either and tests. We reached the end of Beechey We rode some fun rapids, scouting was afraid of falling right out of the Lake by 4:30 and set up camp. We were from high ontop of sand cliffs, avoiding canoe whenever he had to do an ag- all tired, but still managed to pack two the class IV waves in the middle and al- gressive brace. loads to the other end of the two km ways able to find safe routes on river We motored on at a good clip, pass- portage around Beechey Cascade right. ing now through sublimely peaceful

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 11 terrain. I could imagine cozy villages Ahead of us was a long stretch of sand of the class IVN McKean River, and nestled into the distant folds of hills, as shoals and it would be too hard to read other jaw-dropping adventures. Hans lovely as any landscape in old Europe. subtle currents and clues about water Schneller had given a presentation at a But for the latitude and the mosquitoes, depth in this wind. Besides, we all WCA Symposium a few years ago, so Al this river, with its crystal-clear water needed the rest. We went for a hike on and Bob remembered him from that. Al and endlessly-beautiful vistas, would be top of our sandbank. I was delighted to remembered German he hadn't used overrun with vacation properties and find a healthy crop of boletus edulis since his post-graduate year in real estate developers. growing in the sandy soil. The constant Hamburg, and Marilyn, Hendrick and I We watched as dark purple thunder- wind had cracked their velvety brown were also able to speak to them in clouds gathered downstream. We were caps and their white flesh was firm, dry, German. They must have been a little used to clouds gathering out of worm-free, and delicious. I had no surprised to find no language barrier nowhere and knew to watch the space trouble recruiting assistant mushroom out in the barrens. They were certainly between the clouds and the ground. hunters, and soon we had enough for surprised by our gala birthday dinner When this would become foggy-look- soup, dinner, breakfast and a load for that night, with a huge fresh greek ing, you knew the clouds were drop- drying later on. salad, a birthday cake with candles, and ping rain, and depending on the wind I came back with my haul of mush- lots of wine. Their comment was, "so direction and speed, you'd better get rooms to see two yellow kayaks pulled this is how it's done in the Canadian your raingear on or get caught in a sud- up on shore. In the tundra tunnel I met wilderness." They themselves lived on den downpour. But these clouds looked Hans and Hans, both from southern ultra light freeze-dried packages and vi- more threatening, and soon lightning Germany. They were kayaking 1,400 tamin pills. flashes and distant rolling thunder km from Sussex Lake to Gjoa Haven, made it urgent to get off the river. The repeating a trip they did in 1979 in 25 July 16 wind also picked up considerably. By 5 days. Championship whitewater kayak- To make up for the lost day, we were up p.m., the tundra tunnel was proudly ers, they were full of amazing adventure a 6 a.m. and off by 9 a.m. We had standing atop a sandbank and we were stories. After joining us for a lunch of sunny skies and a cold north wind, per- tucked safely inside. As with Moses at wild mushroom soup, they regaled us fect conditions for drying my surplus of the Red Sea, the deluge passed by on ei- with tales of kayaking from Greenland mushrooms, now strapped to the bow ther side of us, leaving us dry and puz- to Cornwallis Island and meeting polar in a mesh bag. We had a great current zled by our good fortune. It started to bears and walrus en route, of killing a and came 20 km in just two and a half rain during the night and the wind caribou for food on the Horton with a hours. The river braided around sand- shifted to the northwest. river knife strapped to a paddle when bars, creating vast shallows that would their float plane was unable to pick dead-end in sandflats. It took precise July 15: Doug's Birthday them up, of walking away from a plane assessment of where the water flowed The drizzle and strong northwest wind crash on Baffin Island after the rescue the fastest and stayed the darkest to made us decide to stay put for the day. team arrived to start a wild exploration avoid taking a blind channel. We saw a white wolf pulling something heavy up from shore. It stopped when it saw us and when I gave a wolfhowl, it started to furiously drag this thing up over the sandbank into hiding. Must have thought we were competition. It reappeared over the ridge to check us out more carefully and then sauntered back to its meal. A little further on, a lone yearling caribou stood on the shore, watched us for a while, and then trotted off with ballet- like floating steps. On the other shore, an old buck stood with its head hung low, the huge rack seeming too much to carry. It made a melancholy sight as it limped along, another wolf meal in waiting. The Hanses had told us about a series of rapids coming up that would be challenging at these water levels. There Our canoes on the beach

12 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 were at least five sets, some actually swifts but made 'interesting' by the size of the waves and back eddies. The waves in the center of all these rapids were too big to run, but we found safe routes along the right shore in every case. We had to line some of the rapids, often having to drag the fully loaded Pakboats over sharp rocks, sometimes up to our thighs in swirling water, always aware of the danger of slipping and getting injured. Tired out, we were relieved when we reached the Bailley River, but disappointed when we found no campsites for the next 4 km It was 8 pm when we finally saw the Hanses orange tent set up on a hillside. We pulled in to join them. They were happy to see us and greeted us with a Fishing break on the river thermos of hot tea, helping us set up our tents and telling us how tough we were, they didn't think we'd make it at its end would cause the water to pile more water than land. A small, stone this far in one day. We'd been paddling up slightly. It was fun trying to choose cairn marked the very summit, and and hauling canoes over rocks for 11 the correct route. We came 37 km in someone had left a glass bottle there, hours. The Hanses had gotten caught in seven hours, enough for one day. now stuffed with bits of folded paper. the sand shallows and lost many hours The top ones revealed that there had wading back to deep water. They must July 18 been several other groups on the river have a more difficult time reading the More sunshine, puffy clouds, light this year. The most impressive message subtle currents and water colour from winds. This is Big Sky country. Sand, was from a group of four who had their low perches in the kayaks. sand and more sand. Four muskox brought 22 liters of wine for their three- came over the brow of a hill but turned week trip. The other canoes had kept July 17 back once they saw us. Doug and I, on going and were now mere dots in Sunny, light winds, puffy little clouds. having chosen a faster channel around the distance, so we ran back down, A perfect day. Before setting off this a long island and coming out ahead of flapping our arms and laughing like morning, I mixed up a yeast dough in a the group by several minutes, decided kids. large Ziplock bag. We were running low to pull in to shore and hike to the top The wind shifted and picked up at on fresh bread. Stored in the bow under of a distinctive, pingo-shaped hill we'd midnight, flapping the tent and making the spray cover, it rose at an alarming been seeing for miles. It was the high- it hard to sleep. It also started to rain. rate in the heat. The occasional whack est point on the river and would have with the butt end of my paddle kept it fabulous views. July 19 under control. The mushrooms were After 12 days of mainly sitting in a A blustery north wind blew cold rain- continuing to dry in the mesh bag, and canoe, it was invigorating to walk up showers in sheets. Nonetheless, a deci- the world seemed a comfortable place. this 40-m cone of a hill. A family of sion was made to break camp and head We passed through more rolling Canada geese flapped off from the very on. The strong winds and choppy esker and sandhill country, and contin- crest when we arrived, honking and waves made it especially hard for Gene ually had to watch for currents and coursing gracefully over the water- and Bob to manage their playboat. After water colour to avoid ending up in speckled landscape stretching out just four miserable kilometers, the blind channels or stuck in shallows below us. Turning 360 degrees, we group decided to pull over and find a where we'd have to get out and drag the could see the interlacing, silver ribbons campsite. It was a sanddune area, with canoes. There was another subtle clue of the Back down which we had just just enough cover from the large dunes we learned to watch for: the slight tilt paddled and then the blue and brown to cut the wind a little. We set up the of the river as it split around large sand network of channels and shallows the tundra tunnel first and then our little islands. It was barely perceptible, but river made on its journey. Far from tents in its windshadow, looking like a there was a downhill slope to the side being a desert of dry hills, the land- big, blue mother bear with cubs in tow. where the water was running the deep- scape on either side of the river was a Cold and wet, we found some comfort est. A channel with a shallow blockage tracery of ponds, lakes and streams, in the tundra tunnel, making hot soup,

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 13 sipping tea and reading for the after- George Back had made of this spot 170 around by the boils. noon. There was some talk of setting off years earlier, his hawk possibly an an- With relief, the river stopped bend- again if the wind let up, but when cient forebear of ours. We had seen no ing so much and we had a straight, fast Stephen looked out of the tundra tun- other hawks so far. run. Just as we started looking for a nel to see the Esquif bobbing on the op- This was the most spectacular campsite, we heard frantic whistle posite shore, the wind having blown it scenery of the trip, and after passing blows. We looked behind to see away, a rescue trip had to be mounted. through the rapids so nicely, we Hendrick waving his paddle in a circle It took so much energy to paddle back thought we should stop and catch some (our signal to turn around), and then against the wind while dragging the trout. The odd dorsal fin slicing saw the capsized Esquif, with the tiny stray canoe that we all decided to stay through the water's surface here whet- figure of Bob floating ahead of it in the put for the night. ted our appetites. Allan and Stephen racing current. A neoprene boot and a wanted to push on and find a campsite, hat were floating toward us, and we July 20 so Doug and I agreed to follow them picked them up as we did an upstream A miserably cold wind blew in scattered and have the other two canoes meet us ferry to get Bob. Gasping for breath and rain showers all day More sandflats and there when they'd done enough fishing. exhausted, he managed to hold on to route finding, but there was a strong The water was high and running our bow as we ferried him to shore. He current and we were making good time. fast, and the river kept bending around was wearing a wetsuit and told us he There were now large wave trains where rockfaces, creating huge wavetrains, was fine. Upstream of us, Hendrick and the river bent around rocky outcrops, boils and eddies. There was a steep Marilyn had reached Gene and con- the outflow always resulting in large gradient all along this section and al- vinced him to let go of the canoe so boils and strong eddylines. Together though there were no rapids, it proved they could get him to shore as well. with the wind it became a challenge to to be, by far, the most treacherous part Downstream, Al and Stephen grabbed negotiate these stretches. of the trip. At one point, the river hold of the canoe, but had trouble get- We saw the rocky canyon of Hawk seemed to stop dead at a rock wall. We ting into eddies, the upside-down canoe Rapids in the distance and prepared just couldn't see where it went! A always getting sucked back out into the for a wild ride. There was so much boulder ledge on river left forced all strong current. We jumped back into water flowing over these rapids that all the water down a steep incline and our canoe to help them, but about half we had were large waves and tricky into the wall on the right, and then it a km downstream of Bob, they man- outflows to contend with. The red, bent right back in a tight U shape. The aged to eddy out. granite cliffs rose about 50 feet on ei- turbulence this created was phenome- The shore here was a miserable ther side of us, and as we passed the nal. We saw Allan's canoe spin around boulderfield with no chance to make mid-section of the canyon, a hawk-like in a circle but they stayed upright and camp. It was cold, sunless, and very bird soared over the brow to look we also managed to stay upright and windy All the kitchen gear was in the down on us. It was just like the sketch out of the eddylines as we were tossed capsized canoe. Not aware of the bad shape Gene was in, we thought they would just walk down to where we were, and we'd go on until we could find a good place to dry out. When they weren't coming, I walked back over the boulderfield to see what was going on. Marilyn and Hendrick had gotton Gene into dry clothes and the three of them were huddled under a sleeping bag. He had stage two hypothermia, was shak- ing uncontrollably and was very weak. Bob was standing in the cold wind, in- sisting he was fine. Nobody's dry clothes were large enough to fit him anyway I walked back down to the capsized canoe and told them we had to get Gene warmed up first. After lining the Esquif back, we realized that the contents of the wanigan, including the Coleman stove, were soaking wet and useless. Stephen ran back over the boulderfield to get his dry campstove so Entrance to Hawk Rapids

14 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 we could get some hot tea for Gene. By the time he came back, Gene was already feeling recovered enough to continue, so one last romp over the boulderfield and we were all on our way. Bob and Gene had tipped in the treacherous U-bend we'd all had trouble on. They'd swum about four km before we heard Hendrick's alarm. It was a good thing they hadn't stayed behind to fish after all, or we wouldn't have been around to help rescue them or their gear. They were in the frigid water for about 20 minutes, and Gene told us he got so cold he thought was going to die, unable to get to shore or to make anyone aware of his predicament.

July 21 Another cold, wet, and windy day. We paddled 35 km today. Gene and Bob Gentle current, sunshine and no bugs looked very uncomfortable in the Esquif now, afraid this hellish boat would spit them out again whenever rent at best and into a sandflat or boul- Once in Pelly Lake, the scenery be- derfield at worst. It became fun to 'read' the wind kicked up waves or the river came especially beautiful, with islands the river like a book. made boils. More channel reading, dotting the Silvery water as far as the sandbar wading, and turbulent bends eye can see. The strong tailwind let us with big waves and boiling outflows. A July 23 make good time to Pelly Monument. five-foot-wide whirlpool opened up be- More cloud, wind, and drizzle. During Exploring the island, I understood why side us, scaring me mightily as it moved a rare sunny break at noon, we passed Pellys great-great grandson erected the under our canoe, like a living thing try- by the couple from Idaho we'd met at cairn and bronze plaque here to honor ing to swallow us up. the float plane base. They were sur- "the governor of the Hudsons' Bay That night I went for a little walk prised we'd come this far already. They Company, and ardent supporter of arc- after everyone had gone to bed, to were taking their time, hiking and ex- tic exploration." This high spot has enjoy the post-sunset glow. Looking to- ploring tributaries. commanding views of the most prisine wards the ridge just behind our tents, I Bob and Gene had made the difficult and beautiful of arctic landscapes. saw a large, dark shape gliding decision to end their trip at Mission Since the waves were building and smoothly along the crest, like the back Island too. Their original plan was to we still had to cross some very long, ex- of something very big. Much too big rent our Pakboat for the second half of posed stretches, Allan suggested we and solid for a bird. I quickly retreated the trip, but our Ducky had even less have the floatplane pick us up here. back to the tent. cargo capacity than the Esquif and There was an excellent, sheltered land- would be much too small and over- ing site for a plane. Gene had, however, July 22 loaded for the two of them. regained his zest and confidence and More intermittent drizzle and strong That evening, I was desperate to wanted to push on to Mission Island. gusty wind. After paddling no more have a bath and wash out some clothes. We compromised and agreed to paddle than a kilometer from our campsite, I My hands and feet have been so cold to a low island a few km further east, saw a huge, cinnamon colored grizzly for so long that the river water actually still within backtracking range if the bear, closely followed by a smaller, felt warm. I'm getting tough and lean. wind should become too fierce to con- darker one, galloping in the direction of tinue. our camp. They disappeared over a July 24 sandhill, just as two white wolves ap- More cold wind, cloud and drizzle. The July 25 - Mission Accomplished peared, also galloping, just ahead of cold hands and feet are tolerable when After breakfast the wind died down, the where the bears had vanished. Were I'm paddling and working hard, but whitecaps diminished, and then it mag- they checking us out last night? once we stop for lunch, the cold creeps ically started blowing from the north- We made good time, being careful to in and creates much misery. Those with west, the only direction that would af- read the currents properly, any miscal- warmer footwear like to linger and take ford us shelter! Someone must have culation putting you into a slower cur- little hikes, to my dismay. done some divine intervening to get us

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 15 to Mission Island. trough it must have been five feet their supply of this German freeze- We quickly broke camp and headed high. It hadn't looked nearly that big dried product, they wouldn't be need- on. We'd soon crossed the narrow, 20- from the top of the rapid. Our won- ing it anymore. They had gotten so de- km-long northfacing arm of Pelly Lake derful Ducky rode up the rising wall of layed by taking the wrong channels in and stopped at a long-abandoned Inuit water, broke free at the top and the sand shallows that they now had no hunting camp. Built on an high plunged back down into an abyss-like hope of reaching Gjoa Haven by August promontory, this had obviously been a trough, only to ride back up another 14, and would fly back to Yellowknife hunting camp for eons. We saw many wall and do it all over again. We tomorrow. Also, they admitted they'd ancient tent rings, their lichen-covered watched as all the other boats rode the been inspired by our 'more comfortable stones sunk deep into the ground. The wild rollercoaster safely. Bob, now pad- approach' to take it easy and enjoy the modern descendants of these nomadic dling bow with Hendrick in a Pakboat, experience, rather than constantly hunters had left behind less pictur- was buried in a wave that came up to pushing themselves. I didn't know that esque reminders: rusted fuel drums, his chest and gave him yet another was the image we were projecting! plastic gas cans, bits of disposable dia- bath. Marilyn and Gene in the Esquif Their impression was that the water pers, oil space heaters, and most looked much more tossed around by levels were much higher than in 1979, bizarre, what looked like an electric the waves than the Pakboats did. when the Back had flowed in a well-de- heater rusting away inside the gutted, Everyone came through fine, a big fined channel. They also said Hawk plywood cabin. The only traditional confidence booster and a great sendoff Rapids was much more technical then items were two wooden komatik sleds for the five of us leaving the river to- and now it was flooded out. That slowly being reclaimed by the ground, morrow. would explain why no one had warned two rusted leghold traps, and many Our goal was now only 12 krn us about the extreme turbulence and bleached bones and wolf skulls. away, a trifle after what we'd covered tricky water downstream of Hawk I was glad to get back to work after to get this far. Yet it seemed an endless Rapids. another excrutiatingly cold lunch- paddle. Finally Mission Island pre- We borrowed Hans's sat phone to break The scenery here was beautiful, sented itself, a high, round pudding call Air Tindi about our changed with high sand and gravel islands dot- on a rim of pure sand, floating in a pickup point. They had a tiny solar bat- ting the vast lake, steel grey water with glittering vastness of Silvery water. tery charger that let them stay in regu- glittering spotlights where shafts of Paddling to the south side, a long lar, chatty contact with family in sunlight caught the ripples, and scud- cove of Caribbean sand opened up to Germany, whereas we were concerned ding low clouds. Such clear air, clear view, with Father Bulliard's cabin about our batteries running low and water, and pristine land. This felt like perched on top like a beacon. A large tried to keep conversations down to the last place on earth where there is glacial erratic marked the entrance to telegram briefness. such a vastness still unaffected by this magical cove, the triangular boul- Back in Yellowknife, we were told human activity. der looking , for all the world, like a that, so far, this had been the coldest, Pelly Lake seemed to develop a cur- bishop's mitre. A fitting guardian for wettest summer they could remember. rent now and we saw a constriction in the place where the French missionary We later found out that the Back had the distance, its disturbed water planted his hopes of converting the no- not been kind to several of the groups crested with white spray. This must be madic Inuit. The few families who canoeing on it this summer. In hind- Pelly Rapids, where the lake flows into passed by here on their seasonal hunt- sight, the river gods actually had been Upper Garry Lake with a Significant el- ing trips made a disappointing parish. looking out for us. evation drop. George Drought's maps He must have been seduced by the po- It took a few days to get over our indicated these rapids were easy, to be etic beauty of this spot. The father weariness once we were home bu t then run on the left. Doug and I were en- mysteriously disappeared in 1956. The we felt strong and incredibly fit. We joying an easy, gliding rhythm and had fact that he is still officially a missing were shocked when we got on the bath- been paddling ahead of the others all person, and that the thick RCMP file room scales and saw how much weight day (much like a horse heading back on him is sealed for 125 years makes we'd lost, despite eating lavishly. We to the barn). So we sized up the rapids his case an intriguing subject for arctic also thought nothing of paddling 20 krn from the water. We saw a steep but researchers. to get a cup of coffee in Dorset (worth smooth drop over a 3 ft ledge, with an Once we'd rounded the mitre point, every paddle stroke.) It seemed like obvious tongue being the only safe- we saw a familiar orange tent and the child's play. An arctic expedition like looking route through. Large standing two Hanses coming down the hill, this is very costly up front and some- waves with white tops formed at the greeting us with broad grins, hugs and times very tough, but it pays big divi- end of this tongue. We whooshed yet another thermos of hot tea. This dends in the feeling of sheer vigour and down the smooth initial drop, and was a delicious brew of peach essence well being it leaves you with afterwards. then I was face to face with a towering and black tea, sweet and almost alco- We're already looking forward to the mountain of black water, from the holic tasting. Hans told us to take all of next one!

16 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 Movie of the Year An Inconvenient Truth Former U.S President AI Gore's prophetic and compelling view of the doomed future of our planet. 2 Climate change as a result of carbon dioxide (C0 ) emissions is not conjecture or theory, it is a fact. Contrary to some propaganda that it is a natural process and we need not worry, the facts prove that the planet is warming at a very fast rate due to C02 emissions which have increased profoundly in the last 50 years and will continue to do so. Everyone can help. What can you do? Change a light: a compact fluorescent light saves 150 pounds of C02 2 Drive less: for every mile you don't drive, you save one pound of C0 . Recycle more: by recycling half of your household waste you can save 2,400 pounds of C02 per year. Check your tires: proper inflation can improve gas mileage more than 3%. 2 Every gallon saves 20 pounds of C0 . 2 Use less hot water: use a low-flo showerhead and save 350 pounds of C0 . 2 Wash your clothes in warm or cold water and save 500 pounds of C0 . Avoid products with packaging and reduce garbage by 10%: and you will save 1,200 pounds of C02. Adjust your thermostat: by TWO DEGREES and save 2,000 pounds of C02 per year. Plant a tree: because it absorbs ONE TON of C02 in its lifetime. Turn off electronics: when not in use and save thousands of pounds of C02 per year. (1)

(1) AI Gore's An Inconvenient Truth (DVD case.) Get the DVD Learn the truth about climate change.

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NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 17 FOOD FOR PADDLERS

Easy Meal Preparation for Tripping Scottish I enjoy huge quantities of oat- important to have a meal that: 1) can be meal at breakfast") made with a minimum of pots, utensils The following was submitted by Cathy With the exception of the first meal, and fuss; 2) is fuel efficient by not hav- Gallately, a long time WCA member. breakfasts and dinners are dehydrated ing to boil or simmer for hours; 3) is fill- and vacuum packed. Simplicity is the ing and appetizing 4) leaves some room Apparently a canoe expedition, for many, reason. Instead of specifically preparing for dessert where one can get creative. creates an opportunity to utilize and ex- meals for a trip, we cook larger portions We don't usually dry individual items pand their culinary skills. Personally, the for dinners at home. That way we have a for later assembly since we find it cum- last thing I want to do when I'm canoe- meal at home and we also load the de- bersome. Many of these items can be tripping, especially after a long day on hydrator at the same time. In the field purchased already dried at a bulk food the water, is to spend hours cooking we start re-hydrating meat dishes after outlet. We do however cook rice and when I could be enjoying my surround- breakfast using hot water and a zip-lock pasta at home and dry it. This gives us ings. That's not to say I don't enjoy a bag storing them safely in a container in- the opportunity to add spicing and good meal. When we first started trip- side the food barrel. At camp, we em- flavouring at home and make our own ping, we used the freeze-dried foods that ploy the one-minute-boil method. That tastier version of a minte rice side dish. were available. We were a lot slimmer in is, we bring the contents to a boil for Other staples like bacon are readily avail- those days partly because we were hun- one minute and let stand before serving. able pre-cooked and vacuum bagged, gry most of the time since the food tasted It is important to keep all the ingredients and they are relatively lightweight. horrible and we didn't eat very much of a uniform size, especially the meats, Vegetables are also very easy to dry, espe- it (hmm ... maybe we should go back to both for effective drying as well as re-hy- cially if you buy them frozen and simply freeze-dried foods). drating. A word of advice, do not rehy- scatter them on the drying trays and dry Our introduction to the food dehy- drate dried pasta and rice with the meat. them overnight. drator changed our way of preparing trail The resultant mass is useful only in its As you can see, our approach is mini- foods. At the outset we dried everything application as an emergency canoe re- mum fuss. We start preparing for a trip a imaginable. I recall lugging home a 50lb pair material. couple of months beforehand and since (23 kg) bag of potatoes and Hans and I The secret to drying meals success- we dry regular home-cooked meals, it re- spending many days peeling, slicing, fully is to remove any fat. I know some ally isn't any extra work. Any fresh food blanching and drying them. It took years of you guys are thinking, "no fat, no items are packed just before we leave. to use them up and we had potatoes with flavour", but honestly, it can still taste Next time out try dehydrating some most everything. We also found a very good and is less likely to spoil. A roast, of your favourite recipes and serving good book on food drying: The trimmed of all visible fat, run through a them to your buddies. You may be sur- Complete Light-Pack Camping and Trail meat grinder and then dried works well prised at the response. Foods Cookbook by Edwin P. Drew. for meat-based dishes like chili and Food preparation for a longer canoe spaghetti. A meal made with store- If you would like to share your trip usually starts with trying to figure bought ground beef should be refriger- favourite tripping recipes, please contact out what kinds of meals will continue to ated overnight to allow the solidified fat Barb Young, 12 Erindale Crescent, be appetizing 14 days into a trip and to be skimmed off before dehydrating. Brampton, Ont. L6W 1B5; youngj- how much food constitutes an adequate To add texture to the meals, we do [email protected]. meal. If your paddling buddies have re- take along additions such as fresh cab- sorted to asking, "What colour's the bage, carrots, onions, etc. to produce mush tonight?" you have a problem. crunchy side dishes and salads. These Good News Although people will generally scarf will be limited by the weight allowances down just about anything after a long and space available after the requisite day's paddling, differences in a person's wine has been packed in. New Membership Secretary size, activity level and metabolism create Some of our more frequent meals are Welcome to varying requirements. When we size spaghetti sauce and pasta, chili with corn meals we start with a recipe for six and bread, Hungarian goulash with rice or Anne Bradley assume that it should be enough to feed noodles, Mexican burritos and shep- from all of the WCA three hungry paddlers. This rule how- herd's pie. Since the primary reasons for ever does not apply to oatmeal as there canoeing in the high Arctic are the Anne's contact is: always seems to be plenty left over that scenery, the wildlife and the paddling annebradley@ sympatico.ca eventually finds its way into the fire. and not necessarily the food, we try not (Why do people assume that because I'm to get overly elaborate with our meals. It's

18 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 NAHANNI: A RIVER SONG By Bob Henderson

In the summer of 2005, the Henderson songs as I sang my way down the river: by canoe. As rats go, I think we canoeists family and some friends paddled the "And we go on and on, watching the can be okay for this river particularly if Nahanni River from Rabbitkettle Lake to river run." Thus, what follows are some we get involved in current park exten- Nahanni Butte. It marked a likely end to of our 2005 Nahanni songs with the sion efforts bent on preserving the river's when family canoe trips were solely de- usual heritage emphasis. watershed, not just its cosmetic corridor. termined by parent's plans. Kid agendas First off, I'm one of the rats to whom Another punctuation-exclamation have taken over. mark is R.M. Patterson's Heritage on the river is thought when conveying synonymous with Raymond the plan to go, when all is M. Patterson's 1954 book maps and geography and The Dangerous Rivn dreams. Patterson wrote: Patterson tells of his 1929-30 "Sometime soon I would do travels. But he also fuels the that (explore the South many stories that had made Nahanni, traveling upriver the Nahanni the dark river of from the Laird River). fear. Added to this were sad Strangely enough, I never Klondike Gold Rush alter- doubted that I could, nate-route stories. Few made though exactly what I pro- it this way to the Yukon Gold posed to use in place of ex- fields near Dawson in the late perience has since often 1890's. Prospecting stories in puzzled me. "Here is a the 1920's, too, seem to end noble learner's enterprise in badly, creating place names keeping with a favourite such as Deadman's Valley and idea for explaining experi- Headless Creek. I'd thought, ential education. That is, what could I possibly add to "Anything worth doing is Patterson"s rich treatment worth doing poorly" and descriptive prose of the (Thanks to Whitehorse river? friend Dave Brown for that Then there was the insur- one). Patterson is a learner. gence of modern travelers He learns and describes gainfully serviced by regular tracking up river beaches, bush flights and commercial tackling a major upstream operators, Nahanni River ferry below Virginia Falls, Adventures and Black learning to live and travel Feather in the main. Books, through a Nahanni winter articles, conservation and Scow Creek and interpreting the crazy park (and now park exten- Nahanni chinook havoc- sion) initiatives all add to the bulk of Patterson's partner referred. In agreeing ridden weather. We, as a family, were coverage of this noble and frankly not so to join R.M. Patterson, Gordon Matthews learners too in this grand country, far re- dark and fearful river. Again what could I is quoted as saying: "Any country, where moved from our Canadian Shield base. add? But, once on the trail, Patterson's the Indians are still hostile and you can Big water, like the Figure-of-Eight rapids The Dangerous River seemed to sing out shoot moose from your bed and moun- conjured up butterflies flying in forma- to us. Quotes from my spring read in tain sheep with a pistol is well worth see- tion. We only hoped the formation preparation were punctuating notes. ing before the rats get at it." I hope matched the right river run. We too did Verses and stories came alive on the trail Gordon Matthews and Patterson might an upstream ferry below Virginia Falls to and the chorus was the overall sense of come to accept us modern rats who fly enter Fourth Canyon. It was entered with sharing (like so many) in the fast flowing into the country generally, not to men- a degree of uncertainty, shared with R.M. canyon and mountainous river. This is a tion flying into the river proper. Toronto Patterson. Weather: black clouds and well-traveled river; Headless Creek be to Yellowknife in one day isn't bad. It blue sky; the uncertainly was invigorat- damned. More than once I caught myself took John Franklin and company, in ing. Patterson had Albert Faille, a well- borrowing the chorus from other river 1818, over a year to cover this distance established trapper and gold seeker to lit-

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 19 tion relief from the mosquitoes in the lower river flats. We floated First Canyon stalling our progress to delight in our passing as much as possible. I'd imagine Patterson, Faille and others tracking on the beaches, jumping over to the side of the river to the next beach. Hmm, what would they do here? No beach, sheer walls, fast current. Imagine the delight of their down river run at seasons end. Patterson wrote of his first meeting with the awe-inspiring First Canyon: That passage through the Lower Canyon was the sort of thing that comes to a man perhaps once in a lifetime if he's lucky The scenery is the finest on the Nahanni and the weather was perfect - clear, with cold nights and blazing hot days. And it was all strange and new: rounding a Exploring Fail/ie's cabin bend was like turning a page in a book of pictures; what would one see, this time and would this next reach hold, erally show him the ropes - the upstream more than its own rocky personality to perhaps, some insuperable obstacle? But tracking ropes to be exact. We had be memorable, but the story does help it never did, and always one found some Patterson. etch the place in my mind. way around by means of some new trick A few verses from our river song Patterson shares accounts of building with the line or the pole. We were lucky showcase our Patterson connection. We a winter-over cabin across the river from too, with weather and good company planned a full day hike at Scow Creek. Prairie Creek. Wheat Sheaf Creek, and no obstacles. I would have changed From our camp on the river it looked named by R.M. Patterson for a friendly places with Patterson here to spread ambitious. It was. Four thousand steady house that lay beyond the seas, is well more time in this canyon and to sing his feet up and down with an on-your-knees described as an area rich in hunting, well true song of exploration. finale caused the odd family member to supplied with game and fine trees for So the Nahanni song, certainly my experience a meltdown. Later we'd read building. We visited the site with expec- song here, is one well connected to Patterson's telling of Gilroy and Hay car- tations of connecting further with Patterson's The Dangerous River. rying heavy loads and Hall traveling Patterson's story. Cabin foundation out- Punctuation, verse and chorus, the book light. All had their own melt down with lines proved difficult to discern but to meets the river well and provides a last- upriver paddling work: "They had had our glee, we did discover an old wood ing testimony to earlier times when enough rive ring to do them for quite a stove, surely one that warmed the souls Nahanni travels were an up and down while," said Patterson. The prospecting of these two northern traveler dreamers. full season affair. Indeed, my favourite partners hiked up Scow Creek with plans Such tangible discoveries did add part of The Dangerous River is the winter to ridge walk over to the north and west crescendo to our river song. Later we travel section not addressed here. and descend into the legendary Flat frantically fought the current above The In reviewing the overall river song River gold strike (an unproven claim) Splits to visit one of Albert Faille's cabins. now months later, I am reminded of a The lighter-ladened Angus Hall had his I most enjoyed the bench near the edge lyric by Ian Tamblyn concerning the second melt down in frustration with the of the river perfectly located for viewing Yukon River. It fits well. Gold is gone, slow pace of his packhorse partners. He the sunset. While Albert never did find gold remains. Patterson and Matthews, headed off with a rifle and a mosquito gold over decades of travels up from Fort Faille and perhaps even the llost Angus net and was never seen again - a stern Simpson, few would argue that his expe- Hall in the hills above the river and leg- lesson for the melt down type. I can al- rience hadn't been golden. The riverside endary headless McLeod brothers found most see him now storming off in a huff bench helped me secure this view. little to no gold but gold remains. along that well-defined ridge as the oth- The chorus was that everyday con- Patterson wrote of his gold in flowing ers, wiser and alive another day, struggle nection of Patterson to the river and to pages and Faille's river-edge bench at his on below with supplies. We returned to us. R.M. Patterson wrote: "Never in my river left cabin before The Splits sang the our spaghetti dinner, thankful we didn't wildest dreams had I hoped to see any- gold of countless sunsets with a coffee have to: 1) travel upstream; and, 2) de- thing like this." First Canyon, he noted, and a dream for a good quest and zest for vote copious time to hunting. Dessert was two days travel upstream, days he life. We all should be so lucky was a chocolate cake that night as I re- must have experienced as overwhelming member. Not that Scow Creek needed for work and visual pleasure, not to men-

20 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 WCA OUTINGS WANT TO ORGANIZE A TRIP AND HAVE IT PRESENTED IN THE SPRING ISSUE? JANUARY - JUNE 2007 Contact the Outings Committee before February 15

For questions, suggestions, proposals to organize trips, or anything else related to the WCA Outings, contact the Outings Committee: Bill Ness, 416-321-3005, [email protected]; Gisela Curwen, 416-484-1471, [email protected]; Geri james, 416-512-6690, [email protected]; Scott Card, 905-665-7302, [email protected] WCA outings and other activities may have an element of danger of serious personal injury. You are ultimately responsible for your own safety and well-being when participating in club events.

All Season HAVE PADDLE WILL TRAVEL (second floor,) just north of Davisville subway station, on the Scott Card, 905-665-7302, [email protected] I pad- west side. Join other paddlers for an evening of food and drink dle whitewater nearly every weekend all year through, as long as and good cheer to chase away the January blahs. It will be a I can find water that's liquid. Local mid-winter thaw runs are great chance to get together and plan next season's adventures great, as are winter trips south. If you want to get out on a river and re-live last summer's outings. This event is jointly organized any weekend, just call me to find out where I'm headed. I go by the WCA and OVCK, and in previous years has been well at- wherever there's good water. Longer trips also a possibility. Trip tended by members of both clubs. difficulty levels vary from intermediate to advanced. Open canoe, C1, or kayak welcome. January 26-28 SILENT LAKE CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING Gisela Curwen, 416-484-1471, [email protected], book All Season KOLAPORE UPLANDS SKI TRAILS before December 30 --- Come and enjoy a snowy winter Dave Sharp, 519-846-2586 --- Join us and ski on a complex weekend skiing at Silent Lake. We will stay two nights in a toasty network of trails through the beautiful winter woods near warm yurt with a wood-burning stove, and cross-country ski the Collingwood on an outlying part of the Niagara Escarpment, trails and explore the park right from our front door. Limit six in- along the eastern edge of the Beaver Valley. Suitable for strong termediate skiers. intermediate to advanced skiers. I am at Kolapore most weekends, snow conditions permitting, so anyone interested in joining February 3 CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING FIVE WINDS TRAILS me at any time can call me. Gisela Curwen, 416-484-1471, [email protected], book before January 20 --- Come out for a day and explore our All Season WINTER IN HALIBURTON COUNTY winter wonderland on the marked, ungroomed wilderness trail Ray Laughlen 705 754 -9479, [email protected] --- system in the scenic Gibson River area. Varied terrain. Limit six Ski/snowshoe Haliburton County area. There are many great intermediate skiers. groomed ski trials here plus thousands of acres of crown lands to bushwhack. Any thing from a bowl of chili by the wood stove to February 2-3 WCA WILDERNESS CANOE SYMPOSIUM some 'cold tent' winter camping. I'm willing to provide help with Allan Jacobs [email protected], Annual conference ap- guidance, logistics, organization, equipment etc. Weekends or plications will be mailed soon via snail mail or download a copy weekdays. from the WCA website. Speaker list will also soon be available.

All Season ALGONQUIN PARK WARM WINTER CAMPING February 17 ANNUAL AGM Frank & Jay Knaapen, 613-687-6037 --- We will once again Aleks Gusev, [email protected], Mountsberg Conservation Area. be setting up the winter tent on the East side of Algonquin Park. Guest Speaker: Robert Perkins, author and filmmaker. Also, tour This large tent sleeps up to 6 people on a comfortable straw bed Mountsberg's birds of prey sanctuary. Lunch provided. See the and has an interior wood stove for warmth and cooking. We are back cover of Nastawgan for an application or make a copy from flexible if you would like time solo or a guided tour. the WCA website at wildernesscanoe.ca. Registration for members $35, non-members $40 by Feb. 1, 2007. See the in January 6 HIKE NATUASHISH TO UNGAVA BAY Nastawgan for directions. Lecture by Pat Lewtas, introduction by George Luste. Public welcome. McMaster Hospital (MUMC) Ewart Angus Centre, Room February 17 PRETTY RIVER PARK NATURE RESERVE SKIING 1A1 8:00 p.m. For more information go to http://nebula.on.ca. Bob Fisher, 416-487-2950 or weekends 705-445-9339. Book before February 8. Try a day of cross-country skiing, that's different /hamiltonassoc. ca or The Hamilton Association for the in the undeveloped part of the Blue Mountains, south and west of Advamcent of Literature, Science and Art. Herb Pohl was a Collingwood. The Pretty River Park Nature Reserve has no member of this organization. Also see the memorial at this site. groomed or trackset trails, but interesting bush trails and logging roads. Great views from the Niagara Escarpment across Lake January 20 PADDLERS' PUB NIGHT Algonquin, which dried up about 10,000 years ago. Meet at 10:00 Gisela Curwen, 416-484-1471 [email protected] by a.m. at the Orchard Lodge of Osler Bluff Ski Club, lunch on the January 20 to register so that we can book sufficient space. Meet trail. Limit 6 intermediate skiers. 7:00 p.m. at Toronto's Bow and Arrow Pub, 1954 Yonge Street

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 21 April 21 BIGHEAD AND BEAVER RIVERS May 19-21 LOWER MADAWASKA RIVER Fred Oliff, 519-624-2328, [email protected], book before ApriI14-- Larry Durst, 905-415-1152 or [email protected], Please join us for these classic southwestern Ontario spring runs; book as soon as possible --- Join us for the 7th annual spring these short sections are not that familiar to those from the paddle/ wine and cheese party, and find out why mostly sane, rea- Toronto area who prefer to go east for their Beaver Creek fun! sonably intelligent and somewhat mature persons subject them- The Bighead section drops about 125 feet in the 5 kms from the selves to the vicissitudes of spring camping. put-in to the take-out at Meaford on Georgian Bay. The Beaver We paddle from above Aumond's Bay to the take-out at Griffith, a River is a little longer and we run the section from the lowhead distance of only 28 km The pace is leisurely with only the Sunday dam (which can be run) from Siabtown to Thornbury. We usu- being a full day of paddling and most of that spent on the Snake ally end our fun at the Leeky Canoe restaurant in Meaford. Rapids section of the river. Lots of time to play, chat, and nibble! Intermediate paddlers with outfitted boats only. There is a limit to Rapids will range from Grade 1 to 4, and there are a couple of 6 boats. These two rivers will both be done on the same day and short portages around falls. Water is likely to be quite high and are completely water-level dependent. cold. In the past we have had sun, rain, hail and snow- all on the same day, so participants will need to dress and pack appropri- April 27-29 SPRING TRIPPING IN ALGONQUIN ately. Suitable for intermediates. Limit 6 boats. Suggest you book Andrea Fulton, Email Andrea Fulton, 416-726-6811, book as early early if you really want to come as this trip sells out every year. as possible. --- Let's get out there before the black flies do! Join me and my two teenage daughters for an easy weekend trip May 26-27 INTERMEDIATE WHITEWATER CLINIC in Algonquin Provincial Park. This will be an easy flatwater trip John & Sharon Hackert, [email protected], book before with a few portages. I plan to camp Friday night at Arrowhead April 21 --- This is the tenth year of our clinic, which is de- Provincial Park, just north of Huntsville off Highway 11, and then signed to help improve your basic skills. We will paddle the do a quick overnight trip into Algonquin's interior on Ralph Bice Lower Mad on Saturday and practice our basics skills at Palmers Lake for Saturday and Sunday. Limited to 9 canoeists. Rapids on Sunday. The emphasis will be on front ferries, eddy- outs, and peel-outs. Your paddle strokes will be critiqued. You April 28-29 SPENCE'SCELEBRATEDSALMON-MOIRA WEEKEND will also have an opportunity to practice self-rescue techniques. Glenn Spence, 613-475-4176, book after January 25 -- Just Open to properly outfitted solo and tandem canoes. Wetsuits or north of Belleville, these two rivers offer exciting whitewater and drysuits will be needed. We will camp at our cottage. fine scenery. The Salmon is the more gentle run, with some small rapids for you to practice your skills. The Moira has larger rapids April 21 BIGHEAD AND BEAVER RIVERS possibly up to class 3. You can bivouac at my house and enjoy a Fred Oliff, 519-624-2328, [email protected], book before ApriI14-- potluck dinner. These are two of Southern Ontario's finest spring Please join us for these classic southwestern Ontario spring runs; rivers. Intermediate paddlers welcome. Limit six boats. these short sections are not that familiar to those from the Toronto area who prefer to go east for their Beaver Creek fun! April 28-29 SPRING IN MUSKOKA The Bighead section drops about 125 feet in the 5 kms from the Gisela Curwen, 416-484-1471, [email protected], book put-in to the take-out at Meaford on Georgian Bay. The Beaver before April 10 --- We will paddle some lakes yet to be de- River is a little longer and we run the section from the lowhead cided and experience the returning birds and discover other flora dam (which can be run) from Siabtown to Thornbury. We usu- and fauna emerging from hibernation. Maybe we will find the first ally end our fun at the Leeky Canoe restaurant in Meaford. turtles or the last cranberries, as in previous outings. We'll hike Intermediate paddlers with outfitted boats only. There is a limit to and explore the surrounding area and clean up portages and 6 boats. These two rivers will both be done on the same day and campsites along the way. Limit four canoes. are completely water-level dependent.

May 5 MINESING SWAMP April 27-29 SPRING TRIPPING IN ALGONQUIN Ray Laughlen 705 754 -9479, [email protected] -- Join Andrea Fulton, Email Andrea Fulton, 416-726-6811, book as early us for this slow-paced trip downstream from the Willow Creek as possible. --- Let's get out there before the black flies do! put-in to Edenvale. We can check out the heronry, osprey nest, Join me and my two teenage daughters for an easy weekend trip early spring migrants and maybe some furry critters. Suitable for in Algonquin Provincial Park. This will be an easy flatwater trip any paddlers. with a few portages. I plan to camp Friday night at Arrowhead Provincial Park, just north of Huntsville off Highway 11, and then May 12-14 SPRING CLEAN UP VOLUNTEER WEEKEND do a quick overnight trip into Algonquin's interior on Ralph Bice Andrea Fulton, Email Andrea Fulton, or call 416-726-6811 Book Lake for Saturday and Sunday. Limited to 9 canoeists. as early as possible. --- Nancy Maddock and Kevin Callan have organized a Spring Clean Up weekend and are calling on April 28-29 SPENCE'SCELEBRATEDSALMON-MOIRA WEEKEND volunteers across the province of Ontario to come out this week- Glenn Spence, 613-475-4176, book after January 25 -- Just end and do what you can to clean up our canoe routes. I en- north of Belleville, these two rivers offer exciting whitewater and courage all WCA members to do our part! Although there is a fine scenery. The Salmon is the more gentle run, with some small prize for the largest group participating, I prefer to minimize rapids for you to practice your skills. The Moira has larger rapids campsite impact and will limit this outing to 9 participants. There possibly up to class 3. You can bivouac at my house and enjoy a are other prizes as well for such accomplishments as the most potluck dinner. These are two of Southern Ontario's finest spring garbage collected,longestportagecleaned,etc.For more informa- rivers. Intermediate paddlers welcome. Limit six boats. tion contact [email protected]. Or, if you you'd like to join me on my trip, contact me directly!

22 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 April 28-29 SPRING IN MUSKOKA wise have to portage. These skills can open the door to paddling Gisela Curwen, 416-484-1471, [email protected], book more demanding remote rivers with confidence. While most before April 10 --- We will paddle some lakes yet to be de- whitewater clinics focus on whitewater playboating skills, we cided and experience the returning birds and discover other flora thought members would like an opportunity for a weekend clinic and fauna emerging from hibernation. Maybe we will find the first at Palmer Rapids on the Madawaska River that would emphasize turtles or the last cranberries, as in previous outings. We'll hike the challenge of moving water in river tripping canoes, and pres- and explore the surrounding area and clean up portages and ent situations that the paddler in a loaded boat on a river trip campsites along the way. Limit four canoes. would have to deal with. We also want to ensure that the level of instruction optimizes your learning experience. Consequently, we May 5 MINESING SWAMP would bring in a couple of very senior ORCA instructors to teach Ray Laughlen 705 754 -9479, [email protected] -- Join this clinic. There would be a cost in the range of $60-$80 per par- us for this slow-paced trip downstream from the Willow Creek ticipant, and you would be responsible for your own equipment, put-in to Edenvale. We can check out the heronry, osprey nest, meals and camping fees. A Royalex canoes, as well as profi- early spring migrants and maybe some furry critters. Suitable for ciency in the basic strokes, are required. The charge covers the any paddlers. instructors' fees only. At this point, as this is a new educational offering, we are putting forward this proposal to see if there is May 12-14 SPRING CLEAN UP VOLUNTEER WEEKEND sufficient interest to proceed in organizing further. Andrea Fulton, Email Andrea Fulton, or call 416-726-6811 Book If you would be interested in such a clinic, please email as early as possible. --- Nancy Maddock and Kevin Callan [email protected] .. Please include weekends in June that you would have organized a Spring Clean Up weekend and are calling on be available. If there is sufficient interest, those expressing inter- volunteers across the province of Ontario to come out this week- est will be notified of dates and given the opportunity to commit. end and do what you can to clean up our canoe routes. I en- If not everyone can be accommodated, preference will be by date courage all WCA members to do our part! Although there is a the original email indicating interest was received. Members only prize for the largest group participating, I prefer to minimize please. campsite impact and will limit this outing to 9 participants. There are other prizes as well for such accomplishments as the most June 4 - 24 LOWER MISSINAIBI RIVER garbage collected,longestportagecleaned,etc.For more informa- Gary James 416-512-6690, [email protected], and tion contact [email protected]. Or, if you you'd like Mary Perkins 905-725-2874, [email protected], book to join me on my trip, contact me directly! by Feb. 15. Plans are in the works to canoe the lower section of this famous Canadian Heritage River from Mattice to Moosonee. May 19-21 LOWER MADAWASKA RIVER Dates include time in Moosonee and Cochrane at end. The start Larry Durst, 905-415-1152 or [email protected], and return dates are flexible. Must have some previous whitewa- book as soon as possible --- Join us for the 7th annual spring ter and wilderness tripping experience. Give us a call if interested paddle/ wine and cheese party, and find out why mostly sane, rea- for details. Limited to four canoes. sonably intelligent and somewhat mature persons subject themselves to the vicissitudes of spring camping. June 9 GRAND RIVER We paddle from above Aumond's Bay to the take-out at Griffith, a Doug Ashton (519) 620-8364, [email protected], book distance of only 28 km The pace is leisurely with only the Sunday by May 31. --- This popular trip down the Grand River offers a being a full day of paddling and most of that spent on the Snake local leisurely day from Cambridge to Paris where it passes Rapids section of the river. Lots of time to play, chat, and nibble! through scenic farm country. This trip is suitable for novice pad- Rapids will range from Grade 1 to 4, and there are a couple of dies with some moving water experience. An excellent family short portages around falls. Water is likely to be quite high and trip without any portaging. cold. In the past we have had sun, rain, hail and snow- all on the same day, so participants will need to dress and pack appropri- ately. Suitable for intermediates. Limit 6 boats. Suggest you book ADDITIONAL TRIPS early if you really want to come as this trip sells out every year. Check our website at www.wildernesscanoe.ca/trips.htm for ad- May 26-27 INTERMEDIATE WHITEWATER CLINIC ditional trips. Members may submit additional trips to the John & Sharon Hackert, [email protected], book before Outings Committee anytime at [email protected]. If you miss the April 21 --- This is the tenth year of our clinic, which is de- Nastawgan deadline, your trip will still be listed on the website. signed to help improve your basic skills. We will paddle the Also, check the bulletin board at www.wildernesscanoe.ca/bul- Lower Mad on Saturday and practice our basics skills at Palmers letin.htm for private, non-WCA trips or partner requests. Rapids on Sunday. The emphasis will be on front ferries, eddy- outs, and peel-outs. Your paddle strokes will be critiqued. You will also have an opportunity to practice self-rescue techniques. Open to properly outfitted solo and tandem canoes. Wetsuits or drysuits will be needed. We will camp at our cottage.

June, date TBDMOVING WATER FOR TRIPPERS Jon McPhee, 905-640-8819 & Bill Ness, 416-321-3005 -- Good moving water canoeing skills can enable trippers to safely and enjoyably run sections of whitewater that they would other-

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006 23 Where it is...

Ontario

.. .in this issue

1. Running the Fond Du Lac River 17. Movie of the Year 7. Words from Mr. Canoehead 18. Food for Paddlers 8. Adventure on the Upper Back 19. Nahanni: A River Song River 23. WCA Outings

WCA Postal Address WCA Contacts http://www.wildernesscanoe.ca P.O. Box 91068 2901 Bayview Ave. Secretary Editor-in-Chief Membership and Toronto, ON M2K 2Y6 Bill King Elizabeth Sinclair Computer Records 45 Hi Mount Drive 48 Pollock Ave. Anne Bradley BOARD OF DIRECTORS Toronto, ON M2K 1X3 Cambridge, ON N1 R 2B1 [email protected] George Drought (Chair) Aleksandar Gusev 416-223-4646 519-624-2328 43 Brodick Street 8 Valiant Road Iyonrex@ rogers.com [email protected] Hamilton, ON L8S 3E3 Etobicoke, ON 905-528-0059 416-236-7079 WCA Outings Treasurer gdrought@wilderness [email protected] Bill Ness Howard Sayles Conservation bound.ca 194 Placentia Blvd. Toronto, ON Erhard Kraus Gillian Mason Toronto, ON M1 S 4H4 416-921-5321 Scarborough, ON Michael Law Toronto, ON 416-321-3005 416-293-3755 B67 Ball Ave East, RR 3 416-752-9596 bness@ look.ca Webmaster [email protected] Beaverton, ON LOK 1AO [email protected] Jeff Haymer (705) 426-1951 Toronto, ON [email protected] Martin Heppner 416-635-5801 Toronto, ON [email protected] Elsie Carr-Locke 416-465-1558 Toronto, ON mheppner@anchor 416-463-9019 securities.com [email protected]

Editorial Team: Barb Young, Food Editor Bill Ness, Outings Editor Aleksandar Gusev, Illustrations Editor Bob Henderson, Resource Editor

24 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2006