ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI Right from the introduction of its first finely crafted timepieces, Zannetti distinguished itself by the extreme finesse of the details gracing its personalized watches ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES

SCUBA ART ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES HAD M ADE WATCHES C - R o m A - A D B SCUBA ART

A RED BEZEL add € 0

WHITE BEZEL add € 0 EL C O L R BE Z EL

ENGRAVING BACK B STANDARD add € 0 customized design add € 100 BACK

STRAP add € 0 C rubber rubber and leather STRAP BLACK BLACK brown orange blue green RUBBER LEATHER LEATHER LEATHER LEATHER LEATHER ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES HAD M ADE WATCHES C - R o m A - A D B SCUBA ART

4 Corozo engraved Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 1.000 c o l r a n d

Engraved

DIAL DESIG N DIAL / customized design add € 800

Agate add € 2.500 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES HAD M ADE WATCHES C - R o m A - A D B SCUBA ART

4 Champlevé enamel Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 1.500 c o l r a n d

Champlevé on mother-of-

DIAL DESIG N DIAL Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 2.000

Wood Brown or black wood add € 0 Customized design add € 1.000 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES

REGENT ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES HAD M ADE WATCHES C - R o m A - A D

REGENT B

A ENGRAVED customized design add € 100 BE Z EL

MULTICOLOR STONE Price to be defined Price to be defined ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C A D

REGENT B

B Wood Cameo Customized design add € 1.000 Customized design add € 2.500 a n d c o l r DIAL DESIG N DIAL

Corozo engraved Customized design add € 1.000 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES HAD M ADE WATCHES C - R o m A - A D

REGENT B

B Champlevé enamel Champlevé on mother-of-pearl Different color add € 0 Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 1.500 Customized design add € 2.000 a n d c o l r DIAL DESIG N DIAL

Traslucent enamel Basrelief in Different color add € 0 Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 1.000 Customized design add € 1.500 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C A D

REGENT B

Gold yellow 18 Kt. add € 0 Gold white 18 Kt. (see price list for price) B Gold red 18 Kt. (see price list for price) CASE M ATERIAL

Steel PVD black finished add € 500 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES HAD M ADE WATCHES C - R o m A - A D

REGENT B

A ENGRAVING BACK STANDARD add € 0 customized design add € 100 BE Z EL

STRAP C ALLIGATOR leather add € 0 STEEL add € 600

Brown blue BLACK STEEL LEATHER LEATHER LEATHER BRACELET STRAP ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES

MAGNIFICUM ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C HAD M ADE WATCHES - R o m A -

A D

MAGNIFICUM B

A ENGRAVED customized design add € 100 BE Z EL

MULTICOLOR STONE DIAMONDS Price to be defined Price to be defined ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C

A D

MAGNIFICUM B

B Wood Agate Cameo Customized design add € 1.000 Customized design add € 2.500 a n d c o l r DIAL DESIG N DIAL

Jade engraved Customized design add € 1.000 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C HAD M ADE WATCHES - R o m A -

A D

MAGNIFICUM B

B Champlevé enamel Corozo engraved Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 1.000 Customized design add € 1.500 a n d c o l r DIAL DESIG N DIAL

Traslucent enamel Champlevé on mother-of-pearl Different color add € 0 Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 1.000 Customized design add € 2.000 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C

A D

MAGNIFICUM B

B Steel add € 0 Steel black finished add € 500 CASE M ATERIAL ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C HAD M ADE WATCHES - R o m A -

A D

MAGNIFICUM B

A ENGRAVING BACK STANDARD add € 0 customized design add € 100 BE Z EL

STRAP C ALLIGATOR leather add € 0 STEEL BRACELET add € 600

Brown blue BLACK STEEL LEATHER LEATHER LEATHER BRACELET STRAP ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES

GLADIATORE ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C HAD M ADE WATCHES - R o m A -

A D

GLADIATORE B

A ENGRAVED ENAMELLED ENGRAVED customized design add € 100 customized design add € 100 BE Z EL

MULTICOLOR STONE DIAMONDS Price to be defined Price to be defined ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C

A D

GLADIATORE B

B Wood Agate Cameo Customized design add € 1.000 Customized design add € 2.500 a n d c o l r DIAL DESIG N DIAL

Jade engraved Customized design add € 1.000 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C HAD M ADE WATCHES - R o m A -

A D

GLADIATORE B

D Champlevé enamel Corozo engraved Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 1.000 Customized design add € 1.500 a n d c o l r DIAL DESIG N DIAL

Traslucent enamel Champlevé on mother-of-pearl Different color add € 0 Different color add € 0 Customized design add € 1.000 Customized design add € 2.000 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C

A D

GLADIATORE B

Gold white 18 Kt. (see price list for price) add € 500 B Gold red 18 Kt. (see price list for price) CASE M ATERIAL

Steel PVD black finished add € 500 ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES C HAD M ADE WATCHES - R o m A -

A D

GLADIATORE B

A ENGRAVING BACK STANDARD add € 0 customized design add € 100 BE Z EL

STRAP C ALLIGATOR leather add € 0 STEEL BRACELET add € 600

Brown blue BLACK STEEL LEATHER LEATHER LEATHER BRACELET STRAP ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES

Zannetti Ovum “Owl”, ref. R5G.A1R-B1.Y.A. Case with 18kt gold owl embellished with diamonds and . Dial hand-engraved and enamelled base in mother of pearl. Automatic mechanical Swiss movement personalised. Limited and numbered edition

DIAL: THE FACE OF THE

Truly the face of the watch, the dial is the expression of its distinguish these different zones. To achieve this, the Fine innermost nature, displays its functions, and gives the watch Watch dial-maker masters artisanal techniques that are often its unique identity. centuries-old. In this sense, the beauty of a Fine Watch dial is the most The base of the dial is a sheet, sometimes gently cambe- visible expression of the movement that brings it to life. In- red, of gold, silver or to which the dial-maker rivets deed, the layout of the mechanisms, wheels and complica- tiny pins. He then traces the inner and outer contours of the tions that form the movement dictate the dial’s appearance, in hour-circle and other indicators. The dial is now ready to be particular the position of the hands, sub-dials, apertures and decorated with engine- (guillochage). other indications that compose it. The designers and crafts- In this centuries-old technique, which only a handful of men who imagine the dial therefore do so with the specifica- craftsmen master, straight or circular lines are cut into the tions imposed by the movement in mind. surface of the metal. Each line is just a few tenths of a mil- Dial-making is an art and a craft in its own right that de- limetre wide and three to four hundredths deep. These lines mands considerable expertise, and very often “secrets” that overlap and intertwine to form an infinite variety of patterns are handed down from one generation to the next. Visually, that catch and reflect the light. One of the final stages is to the dial must satisfy a dual requirement: it must be pleasing - then the tiny holes that will carry the arbou- to the eye and legible at a glance. A host of information must rs for the hands. Space is hollowed out for the sub-dials, and be harmoniously conveyed by means of hands or apertures applied numerals and markers are added to the hour-circle. on a surface that often barely exceeds a few centime- Some Fine Watch dials are also enamelled, painted or set tres. Often a dial is separated into several sections and, be- with diamonds and other precious stones. Thus each dial has yond its refinement and beauty, its decor must highlight and its own, unique face. ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES

WONDERS OF ENAMEL

Enamel is transparent glass colored with metal oxides The latter presents a great challenge to the enamellist which, when applied to metal and heated to between 800°C –the fact that colors cannot be mixed means that variation and 1,200°C, melts and is bonded by fusion to the metal. Th- and gradation in color have to be achieved through the ca- ree thin layers of this enamel, when polished, give the unique- reful use of layered firings as well as exquisitely challenging ly pure and luminous white of a Fine Watch dial. Patterns can control of the distribution of individual granules of enamel then be acid-engraved or manually engraved, and numerals (rather like Pointillist painting.) and other markings transferred. On a flinqué dial or an engine-turned dial, translucent Flinqué –guilloché ( engine turning) enamel covers the metal base which has first been engraved Overlaid with translucent colored enamel. This is the tech- with concentric lines or circles. nique of placing enamel over guilloché (or in some cases en- Superb coloured enamels are obtained by adding different graved metal) surfaces, which both increases the difficulty as metal oxides to transparent enamel. They are applied to the well as the risk of the enameling process. The execution of the metal (usually gold) base with a quill or a very fine brush. The guilloche, needless to say, must be flawless, and rejection of the enamel is fired and the process repeated as many times as is ne- dial due to firing problems means not only a loss of the enamel cessary to obtain the desired colour. A Fine Watch is enamelled work but also of the guilloché as well. using any of the three principal techniques. The payoff for success, of course, is a unique shimme- finish in which the enamel is illuminated both from Cloisonné in front and from behind by the myriad reflections from The enamellist traces the contours of the pattern using the mirror-bright surface of the engine turning. Champlevé fine gold wires, not even the width of a hair. The cells for- enameling capitalizes on the affinity of enamel work for cle- med by these wires are then filled with layer after layer of an, clearly delineated geometric areas, giving a pronounced enamel. The enamellist performs this operation up to sixty visual strength in contrast to the delicacy of cloisonné. times, and fires the piece twelve or fifteen times, as each The hollowed out sections of the metal dial create wells colour fuses at a different temperature. into which powdered enamel is placed and fired, and the resulting juxtaposition of areas of clean, clear and brilliant Champlevé color have the animation and liveliness of the late works The engraver incises the metal to form the details of the of the great modernist painter and master of color, Henri chosen motif. The enamellist then fills these hollows with ena- Matisse. mel, one colour at a time, firing each one in the furnace. Enameller Miniature painting on enamel Enamel is made from silica, feldspar and kaolin which This technique, which appeared circa 1620-1630, can have been crushed into a powder then combined with metal be likened to oil painting. The miniaturist outlines his oxides to obtain the required colour. The enameller mixes subject on a surface that has been enamelled on both sides. this powder with oil or water, depending how it will be ap- The colour is then gradually built up using finely-ground plied to a polished base in copper, gold or silver. In certain enamel mixed to consistency with essential oil and fired cases gold paillons are applied to the base layers to produce between each application. The softest colours are usual- a shimmering pattern underneath the enamel. Each succes- ly applied last of all, and fired a final time. Even at this sive layer of enamel is fired at high temperature. Once the ultimate stage, a blast of heat can still irremediably erase enamel has fused to the metal, it is unalterable. A watch all or part of the work. Only at the very end of this long dial can be embellished with enamelled patterns, portraits process will the enamellist discover whether his work is a or scenes using champlevé, cloisonné, cloisonné à jour or success, or not. The piece is red-hot when taken out of the miniature painting techniques. furnace then blackens as it cools down until the miracle of the colours is finally revealed. Enameling is fraught with challenges but perhaps no aspect of it is as difficult as the creation of a painting in ena- mel. Painting in is so demanding that in the past, masters of the craft such as the famous Huaut family of Geneva were the recipients of honors and appointments as painter miniaturists to noble and royal courts. The two greatest challenges in painting in vitreous ena- mel are the need for successive firings, and the fact that co- lors cannot be mixed to create new ones. The former is an aspect, of course, of all enamel work but the number of firings increases as the depth and variety of colors achieved increases. ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES

GLOSSARY

Applique polishing with a mechanical buffer. A chamfer is the hours, minutes and seconds. On Zannetti Raised numeral or hour-marker, applied to typically used to increase resistance to wear, or watches, dials base are generally in brass or silver. or riveted to the dial. At Zannetti, appliques are for aesthetic reasons. sometimes diamond-set. Diamond Champlevé Precious stone: pure crystallized carbon, Arabic Hand engraving technique. Champlevé con- generally colorless, occasionally pink, yellow or Usual way of showing the numerals. Arabic sists of hollowing out a metal plate with a flat blue in colour. A diamond, which is exceptional- numerals: 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.0. As opposed to Ro- graver, thus small cavities to receive the ly hard, scratches all other bodies, but can only man numerals: I, II,III... enamel. be scratched by itself.

Back Chronograph Electrolysis The lower part of the case, fixed beneath the Watch complication enabling measurement Chemical decomposition achieved by the case middle. The case, either in metal or in sap- of the duration of an event. A classic chro- action of an electric current. Certain metals are phire crystal to reveal the movement, may be of nograph comprises a chronograph or seconds electrolyzed in order to apply them on others in the screw-down, snap-on, screw-on or hinged hand circling the dial and another hand adding fine layers. dust cover type. up the minutes on a counter or totalizer. Some Screw-down back: the back and the case middle have additional counters. Be careful not to con- Embossing are respectively fitted with a screw thread and fuse a chronograph with a chronometer. Stamping a motif in metal with imprints em- are thus screwed to each other. bossed using a press. Snap-on back: the back is held on to the case Chronometer middle by pressure. A watch featuring high precision certified Screw-on back: the back is held on to the case by an official body. In Switzerland, rating cer- Green colored , a variety of . middle by four screws. tificates are granted, on a one-by-one basis, by Most widely used gemstone cut for . Hinged dust cover: the crystal is held the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing on to the case middle by pressure, and the dust Institute). Be careful not to confuse a chrono- Engraving cover is hinged to the case middle, enabling one meter with a chronograph. A deeply creative skill where aesthetically to open to reveal the movement. pleasing shapes and flourishes are etched on ca- Circular graining ses and dials. The artist first creates the design Bezel In French, called perlage due to the finished with a pencil sketch, then transfers it to the me- Upper part of the case which holds the glass. resemblance to a row of tiny . Here, the tal surface with a for fine lines, or a graver It is fixed above the case middle. main plate and attached bridges are etched with for broader furrows, focusing on the tiny canvas a pattern of interlaced circles or bead shapes. through a binocular . Burin To create the pattern, the flat end of a piece of Engraver’s chisel. pegwood coated with emery paste is fitted into a Fine working rotating head and pressed meticulously down on Part of the case hand-finishing. This stage Caliber the plate to make perfectly linear rows. includes trimming or filing off of residue mate- Originally synonymous with size or dimen- rial, and it’s here that attachments are soldered, sion. then began to use the term Circular satin brushing hinges are made for cases with dust covers and to refer to the movement. A polishing technique used for a case, and their openings adjusted, and preparations are resulting in a velvety, tunnel-like image. made for polishing. A unit of the gold purity index for gold alloys. Circular satin finish Fold-over clasp Pure or fine gold weighs 24 carats. Watches and To form fine circular lines on the surface of A clasp that opens by folding over, without jewellery are crafted from 18-carat or 750 gold, a metal movement component, using a hand la- being detached from the two parts of the bra- an containing 18/24ths or 75% of pure the or fine emery . celet. gold. A unit of weight for precious stones. One carat Counter Galvanization corresponds to 0.2 grams. In a classic chronograph, a subdial indica- Also known as , this is the process ting the time elapsed in minutes. There are also of applying a protective coating over a metal to Case counters for hours or fractions of a second. prevent rusting, which helps keep the material The watch case is generally composed of free from impediment (damp or sea air can all three parts: the case middle, the bezel and the create corrosion over time) and in perfect wor- case back. A (which is often fluted), operated king order for much longer. During galvaniza- Case middle between the thumb and forefinger that is pulled tion, one metal is electrochemically covered with The middle part of the case, placed between into various positions and turned, generally to another – for example, bridges and plates are the bezel and the back. It houses the movement. set the time or adjust the date. On mechanical protected by a fine layer of . Electro- watches, the crown (or winding crown) also ser- can also be used to change a dial’s color. Chamfering ves to wind the movement. Also known as beveling or in French, angla- ge. Here, the sharp edge between the surface Dial Gemmologist and the flank of a component is manually cut Plate with a metal base, visible through a Specialist of fine stones and precious stones, or filed away to a smooth 45° curve, followed by glass, which carries certain indications such as scientifically called “gems”. ARTISTIC customization OF ZANNETTI WATCHES

GLOSSARY

Gem-setter Numeral Skeleton Craftsman who sets fine stones or precious Character representing a number used to Refers to a movement that is open worked stones. indicate the units of time on the dial. The Ara- and engraved by hand. bic, Roman or Breguet style numerals may be Gemsetting flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are Small seconds hand Precious stones – diamonds, rubies, sapphi- different from symbolic characters such as hour Seconds indicated on a small subdial, and res or emeralds – are set manually at Zannetti, markers. not in the center. in the traditional way. They are never adhesively bonded, but positioned ultra-securely by folding Strap over the metal collars that surround them. Sto- . 950 platinum (95% pure pla- Strip/band of leather (or other non-metal nes must be fastidiously placed (level, pointing tinum and 5% other metals) is used for making material) that holds the watch to the wrist. in the same direction and all at the same height) watches. It is the hardest material of all to work to bring out their full shimmer and radiance. and tools often break in the process. It takes th- Time zones ree to four times longer than working gold. Simultaneous indication of the time in seve- Glass ral time zones. The most common models are Thin transparent plate through which one Polishing dual time zone watches which give home time reads off the time, and which protects the dial. One of the most important finishing ope- and local time in the place one is traveling to. A glass may also be fitted on the case back to rations, polishing brings each aspect of a watch reveal the movement. The glasses used for into sharp , highlighting everything from Winding Zannetti watches are always in scratch-resistant gemsetting and enameling to the engraving. Winding the spring of a mechanical watch. sapphire and may thus also be referred to as sap- This winding may be done manually or automa- phire crystals. Power reserve tically by wrist movements. A complication that indicates the of the Hand power reserve: the time during which a mecha- Metal part which points to various indica- nical movement can continue running without tions on the dial. At Zannetti, it may take a va- being wound, ranging from 48 hours to 10 days riety of shapes and forms, for Patek Philippe watches.

Hour marker Push-button (push-piece) Symbolic character serving to indicate the A button finger pressed to activate certain subdivisions of time, on the dial. The hour mar- functions, such as those of a chronograph. kers, whether pointed baton or rounded baton, may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They Relief are to be distinguished from numerals, which Hand engraving technique, also called are characters representing numbers. pounced ornament. Relief is a “trompe l’oeil” or optical illusion type of modelling in the man- Jewel ner of bas-relief, created using a graver. In a movement, a synthetic that serves to reduce friction on the staffs of the pivots. Je- Rotor wels belong to the “other parts” category. Component of self-winding movements, sy- nonymous with oscillating weight. The rotor is Lugs (horns) a heavy part which rotates or oscillates thanks Parts extending from the case middle betwe- to wrist movements and automatically winds the en which a spring bar holds the strap or bracelet. mainspring.

Luminescent Sapphire Which emits light and is therefore visible at Transparent synthetic material for watch night. The luminescent substance, applied by glasses (or crystals) which has the property of Zannetti on the hands, numerals or hour-mar- being scratch-resistant. kers is non radioactive. Gemstone, a variety of corundum. It is gene- rally blue, but may be pink, yellow, etc. Manually wound A manually wound movement is a mechani- Satin brushing cal movement that is wound by hand (using the A polishing technique where the surface of winding crown). the metal is “drawn out” or smoothed with a tool coated in fine emery paste to achieve a matt Movement appearance and a finely striated effect. There are three types of movements, or cali- bers, which drive Patek Philippe watches: Self-winding Mechanical manually wound movements A self-winding movement is a mechanical Mechanical self-winding movements movement that is wound by wrist movements movements thanks to the oscillating weight (or rotor).