DIY Build Instructions – KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER [v 1.4 PCB SET]

First of, thank you for your purchase of the Tsyklon Labs KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER DIY Kit [details below]. If you are a DIY Synth Veteran [or, as we like to say at Tsyklon Labs - “Hero of Synthesizer DIY”], then this kit will be a fun build. If you are a DIY Synth Novice, you have selected a build that will certainly strengthen your skills – but, follow the directions and take your time with this build. It is not exceptionally complicated, but there are a lot of steps. During the build, you will put together many types of circuits – power, digital logic, analog signal manipulation, high voltage DC [160V], and cold tubes. If you are into coding, you'll even have the option of creating your own alternate frmware for the Chaos Divider HV. Also, if you are not familiar with component naming, please check out page 37.

First, let's make sure that you have everything on hand before we heat up the iron. The tools you will need are as follows: - Soldering Iron [if you have both a fne point and a chisel point, that will work well] and Solder - Cutters - Needle Nose Pliers - Fine Point Tweezers [ESD safe is preferred] - 2.5mm Allen Wrench or Small Phillips Screw Driver for tightening M3 screws on PCB Standofs - 10mm Deep Well Socket for tightening nuts and 7mm for Toggle nuts - Knurled Nut Tool [Xicon 382-0006] or 8mm Socket for tightening Jack nuts - Insulated adjustment tool - Voltmeter w/ clip leads for trimming On Board Voltage Regulators [10VDC and 160VDC] - Two pieces of electrical tape, both 2.5” [64mm] long

The following parts have been included in your kit: Qty Part Description 1 Kosmodrom Chaos Divider Front Panel [WHITE Aluminum Panel with BLUE, BLACK, and RED screen printing] 1 Kosmodrom Chaos Divider Power/Logic v1.4 [RED Solder Mask with BLACK screen printing] 1 Kosmodrom Chaos Divider Signal Printed Circuit Board v1.4 [BLUE Solder Mask, with WHITE screen printing] 1 Kosmodrom Chaos Divider Control Printed Circuit Board v1.4 [WHITE Solder Mask with BLACK screen printing] 9 Orange Water-clear 3mm Orange LEDs [2 pin] 1 Common Cathode 3mm Red/Blue LED [3 pin] 1 ИН-17 [IN-17] 10 Digit Nixie , Common Tube 1 КМ155ИД1 [KM155ID1] Ceramic Nixie Driver IC [16 pin DIP IC] 1 Microchip PIC18F4520 Microcontroller Chaos Engine with Chaos Divider v1.4.x frmware [40 pin DIP IC] with 40 Pin Socket

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 1 PART I – Unpacking the kit 1-1) Let us begin by inspecting the components that came with the kit. First is the RED Power/Logic Printed Circuit Board [PCB]. It is called that because it hosts the circuitry as well as the logic interfaces for the Microcontroller [front and back sides are shown]:

1-2) Next, take a look at the BLUE Signal PCB. It contains all of the circuitry for the and its voltage boost power supply as well as all of the circuitry that translates all of the real world, Eurorack system signals to those that work with [and more importantly, will not damage] the PIC18 8-bit Microcontroller. Take note of the “Do Not Touch” screen printing images on the back of the PCB. That is the location of the Voltage Boost circuitry for the Nixie tube – so, take heed and do not touch. And especially, do not lick the Nixie circuit either. In fact, it is not safe to lick any side of any circuit board of any of your modules, the Chaos Divider included. Especially the Chaos Divider. Seriously, stop thinking about it. [front and back sides are shown]:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 2 1-3) The third item that we will check is the WHITE Control PCB. All of the user IO and Control devices for the Chaos Divider are on this PCB [front and back sides are shown]:

1-4) Next, we will inspect the Chaos Divider Front Panel. Check for chips or fakes in the powder coated panel as well as any issues with the screen printing. It should look like this:

NOTE: The Chaos Divider's front panels are printed with solvent based inks. Do not use solvents such as Naphtha, VM&P, Isopropyl Alcohol [or any other solvent or solvent based cleaners not listed] to clean the front panel. There is a really good chance that you will remove the printing from the panel.

ALSO OF NOTE: There are four Mouser carts for this build. One for each of the PCBs and one for miscellaneous hardware such as fasteners and stand-ofs. Be sure to get ALL of them.

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 3 1-5) Finally, let us take a look at the miscellaneous parts. There are nine Orange Water-clear 3mm LEDs, one Red/Blue 3mm LED, one IN-17 Nixie Tube, one KM155ID1 Nixie Tube Driver IC, and one Microchip PIC18F4520 Microcontroller [w/ Open Frame 40 pin DIP Socket]:

1-6) If any of the components listed above are missing or damaged, please let us know as soon as possible so that we can arrange to get you the replacement parts that you need! While each PCB's section lists specifc components for the PCB, below is a list of miscellaneous hardware parts that you will need to assemble the Kosmodrom Chaos Divider:

Qty PCB Identifer Part Description 5 F/F Stand-of M3 x 11mm Hex Stand-of [Female/Female] 2 F/M Stand-of M3 x 11mm Hex Stand-of [Female/Male] 11 Screw M3 x 6mm Screw 1 Lock Nut or Short M3 Stand-of M3 x 3mm Hex Stand-of [Female/Female] 2 Header Pin Shunt Connector 0.1” Shunt Connector with Handle [Optional] – Used if you do not have a CD Sputnik [For more information, look at page 5 of the Chaos Divider User Manual] Miscellaneous Hardware - http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=527bc5e99a

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 4 PART II – Power/Logic PCB Assembly Aside from the parts in the kit, you will need the following parts [listed in build order] to complete the Chaos Divider Power/Logic PCB: Qty PCB Identifer Part Description 1 FB1 133Ω, 3.5mm x 8.9mm Leaded Ferrite Bead 1 D301 1N4001 50V Silicon Rectifer 1 D302 1N5817 20V 6 R302 – R307 10kΩ, 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R301 47kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R308 470Ω, 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R309 220Ω, 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R310 560Ω , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 2 C309, C310 15pF, 50V MLCC 3 C307, C308, C302 100nF, 50V MLCC Capacitor [it may be labeled 0.1µF] 1 CLK_XTAL 20MHz Quartz Crystal with HC49U Insulator 1 C301 47µF, 50V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor 1 C303 0.33µF, 50V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor 3 C304, C305, C306 0.1µF, 50V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor 1 VR301 5kΩ PCB Mount Trimmer, top adjust 1 10VREG LM317LZ Adjustable 1 PF301 RUSBF110 [Radial 5.8mm leads, PPTC Resettable 1.1A, 16V, 40A Max] 1 5VREG LM7805 5VDC Voltage Regulator with TO-220 Heatsink 1 POWER 2x5 Male 0.1” Shrouded Eurorack Power Header 1 MHDR_SPUTNIK 2x5 Male 0.1” Pin Header 1 MHDR_NBL 1x3 Male 0.1” Pin Header 1 MHDR_OUTPUTS2 1x5 Male 0.1” Pin Header 2 MHDR_OUTPUTS1, MHDR_ICSP 1x6 Male 0.1” Pin Header 2 MHDR_INPUTS, MHDR_NIXIE 1x10 Male 0.1” Pin Header Power/Logic PCB BOM - http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=37764c1f52

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 5 2-1) Install the power supply components FB1 [Ferrite Bead], D301 [1N4001], and D302 [1N5817] into the PCB and solder them in place :

2-2) Next, install R302 – R307 [6 x 10kΩ] into the PCB and solder them in place:

2-3) Install the rest of the into the PCB – R301 [47kΩ], R308 [470Ω], R309 [220Ω], R310 [560Ω], and solder them in place:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 6 2-4) Now that all of the resistors have been installed, we can move on to the MLCC oscillator C309 and C310 [2 x 15pF] and Microcontroller power decoupling C307 and C308 [2 x 100nF]. Install them into the PCB and solder in place. None of these are polarised:

2-5) Next, prepare the oscillator crystal CLK_XTAL [20MHz], by installing the isolator onto the pins of the crystal and sliding it up against the bottom of the crystal can:

2-6) Insert CLK_XTAL into the PCB as well as the 40-pin Microcontroller Socket into the PCB and solder in place.Once the 40 pin Socket has been installed, pinch the decoupling capacitors together so that they will stay below the Socket so that the Microcontroller will sit properly in the Socket.

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 7 2-7) Next, install the rest of the Power Supply capacitors C301 [47µF], C302 [100nF], C303 [0.33µF], C304 – C306 [3 x 0.1µF] into the PCB and solder in place, NOTE: C301 is mounted horizontally [do your best to locate it within the screen printed capacitor symbol to give yourself enough room to comfortably solder the Shrouded Power Header in step 2-13]. With the exception of C302 [MLCC, not polarised], the rest of these capacitors are polarised Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors and must be installed with the correct orientation – the long pin on the capacitor is the [+] terminal. Align this pin with the [+] marks on the PCB for each capacitor:

2-8) Next, install the last few components for the power supply that go onto the front side of the PCB – VR301 [5k], 10VREG [LM317L], and PF301 [RUSBF110]. Prepare trimmer VR301 by turning it to the middle position. We will adjust it in Step 2-20 when we test and set the power supply components:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 8 2-9) Gently, fold down the so that it is closer to the PCB and will leave enough clearance for the BLUE Signal PCB:

2-10) Here is a side view to show that the resettable fuse is not touching any of the other components:

2-11) Next, we will install the Power Supply components on the back of the PCB. Begin by bending down the leads of 5VREG [LM7805] in the middle of the thicker portion of the leads. Use the pictures below and the screen printing on the PCB as a guide. Insert 5VREG into its Heat Sink until the lead end of 5VREG is as fush as possible to the Heat Sink while ensuring that the leads are not touching the Heat Sink:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 9 2-12) Insert the leads of 5VREG into the back of the PCB and insert the M3 x 6mm screw through the Heat Sink side of the assembly, through the PCB, and install the Locking Nut [or short hex stand-of] as shown in the picture below:

2-13) Solder the leads of 5VREG as well as installing the Shrouded Power Header and solder in place. Place the key opening according to the screen printed component on the PCB. The “Red” stripe [actually a Black stripe, because the PCB is Red] denotes the end of the Shrouded Power Header that has the -12VDC pins:

2-14) Next, install the 2x5 male pin header MHDR_SPUTNIK, and the 1x6 male pin header MHDR_ICSP into the back of the PCB and solder in place. Tip: Solder one pin of each header, checking that the base of the header is fush against the PCB and that the pins of MHDR_ICSP are perpendicular to the PCB. The other trick that might be helpful is to use a 2x5 pin ribbon connector to keep all of the pins in alignment – some plastic bases used in pin headers may get soft during soldering and this connector helps keep everything aligned:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 10 Note: The last bit of assembly before Power Supply testing is to install the rest of the male pin headers for the Power/Logic PCB. The rule of thumb for the internal headers in this module is that the male headers are on the top of the PCB and the female headers are on the back of the PCB.

2-15) Match up the male and female header pairs that connect the Power/Logic and Signal PCBs. Match up the 1x3 pin headers MHDR_NBL and FHDR_NBL, the 1x5 pin headers MHDR_OUTPUTS2 and FHDR_OUTPUTS2, the 1x6 pin headers MHDR_OUTPUTS1 and FHDR_OUTPUTS1, and both 1x10 pin header sets MHDR_INPUTS/FHDR_INPUTS, and MHDR_NIXIE/FHDR_NIXIE:

2-16) Install two of the female/female stand-ofs and two of the female/male stand-ofs into the Power/Logic PCB so that the stand-ofs are on the front side of the PCB and the M3 x 6mm screws are installed through the back of the PCB:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 11 2-17) Next, install the header pairs into their locations so that the male half is installed into the RED Power/Logic PCB. Then, install the BLUE Signal PCB onto the female half of the header pairs, using the female/male stand-ofs for alignment. Install two more M3 x 6mm screws into the female/female stand-ofs through the front of the BLUE Signal PCB to secure everything. Double check that each of the header pairs are in their locations and that everything is aligned well:

2-18) Solder the male headers ONLY to the RED Power/Logic PCB. Do NOT solder the headers to the BLUE Signal PCB:

2-19) Dismantle the RED/BLUE PCB assembly by removing all of the female headers, but leave the stand-ofs in place. You are almost ready for Power Supply testing, so this is a good time for a break. Stretch out, get a drink, and rest your eyes for a moment. The next steps are testing and calibrating the power supply circuits, and a sharp mind will help.

When energising your module, there is a chance that an Electrolytic Capacitor can fail, so be sure to WEAR EYE PROTECTION to avoid injury if the base, cap, and contents of the capacitor all decide to spontaneously go their own way!

2-20) Insert Eurorack Power Cable. For testing modules, it is a good idea to use a Bench Power Supply or a regular Eurorack Power Supply that is dedicated for DIY building with no other modules connected to it – just in case of an electrical mishap. Take one last, close look at the Chaos Divider Power/Logic PCB for any cold solder joints, pads that are shorted out to nearby pads with blobs of solder [especially on the Power Supply Header], and the general tidiness of your work. If it looks good, let us continue. Also, if you got ahead of yourself and inserted the Chaos Engine Microcontroller, be sure to take it out before performing the power supply check.

Connect the Chaos Divider Power/Logic PCB to your power supply of choice and energise. If no “magic smoke comes out” we are ready to proceed. Set your meter to measure DC and insert the test leads into their appropriate connection ports.

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 12 2-21) For the frst part of the power supply test, we will check the non-adjustable voltage regulators. Take a look at the picture below. Clip your meter's negative [or common] lead to the pin labeled 0V. While being careful not to short the 0V lead to the +5V pin, Touch your meter's positive lead to the +5V pin. You should read close to 5 volts DC. It may not be exactly 5.000V, and that is OK. Remove the test lead from the +5V pin and touch it to the +12V pin. Again, your meter may not read exactly 12.000V. You can also check the +5VDC pin on MHDR_NIXIE. It is connected to the +5V pin on MHDR_INPUTS and should give you the same reading, but it never hurts to be thorough.

Next, we will set the adjustable voltage regulator so that it will provide 10VDC. Remove your test lead from the +12V pin and touch (or clip) it to the +10V pin. With a small screwdriver, turn trim pot VR301 until your meter reads as close to 10V as you can make it. Anywhere between 9.9V and 10.1V will be more than good enough:

Your Power Supply test and calibration is now fnished. De-energise your Power Supply, power of your meter, and remove your test leads from the Chaos Divider Power/Logic PCB:

Huzzah! One PCB completed, two more to go. It is very tempting to install the CHAOS_ENGINE, but resist the urge. We need to complete and test the Voltage Boost Circuit before installing it.

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 13 PART III – Signal PCB Assembly Aside from the parts in the kit, you will need the following parts [listed in build order] to complete the Chaos Divider Signal PCB: Qty PCB Identifer Part Description 7 C201, C202, C209, C212, C234, C256, C278 100nF, 50V MLCC [0805 SMD] Capacitor [may be labeled 0.1µF] 1 Q212 KSP42TA 300V BJT NPN 1 Q213 IRFD320 Power MOSFET N-Chan 400V 0.49A 1 D200 UF4004 High Speed, High Voltage Silicon Rectifer Diode 1 C216 2.2nF, 100V MLCC Capacitor [may be labeled 2200pF] 1 R242 6.8kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 VR_HV 1kΩ PCB Mount Trimmer, top adjust 1 R215 56kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R216 10kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R217 1kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R218 2.2kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R219 470Ω , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 R220 220kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 L200 100µH Fixed 1 C215 330µF, 25V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor 1 C217 100pF, 2kV Ceramic Capacitor [may be labeled 0.1nF] 1 C218 2.2µF, 400V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor 1 IC200 NE555 Timer IC and 8 pin DIP Socket 7 IC201, IC202, IC209, IC212, IC234, IC256, IC278 TLV2372 Rail to Rail Op-Amp and 8 pin DIP Socket 9 R221 – R229 27kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 6 R231, R232, R235, R236, R239, R240 24kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 6 R230, R233, R234, R237, R238, R241 47kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 3 D201, D202, D203 1N4733 5.1V, 1W 9 VR201 – VR209 50kΩ PCB Mount Trimmer, side adjust 1 IC203 KM155ID1 and 16 pin DIP Socket

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 14 [Chaos Divider Signal PCB BOM Continued] Qty PCB Identifer Part Description 1 MHDR_O9 1x3 Male 0.1” Pin Header 4 MHDR_O12, MHDR_O34, MHDR_O56, MHDR_O78 1x5 Male 0.1” Pin Header 1 MHDR_CONTROLS 1x10 Male 0.1” Pin Header 1 FHDR_NBL 1x3 Female 0.1” Pin Header 1 FHDR_OUTPUTS2 1x5 Female 0.1” Pin Header 1 FHDR_OUTPUTS1 1x6 Female 0.1” Pin Header 2 FHDR_INPUTS, FHDR_NIXIE 1x10 Female 0.1” Pin Header Signal PCB BOM - http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a7c17e4863

If you don't have a lot of experience with SMD soldering, do yourself a favour and watch this video from Adafruit. Seriously, watch it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzoPxvIM2qE

3-1) Install all of the SMD chip capacitors C201, C202, C212, C234, C256, C278, and C209 [7 x 100nF] into the PCB and solder them in place. The pads for these capacitors are the two squares on the back side of the Signal PCB from the TLV2372 Op Amp ICs [IC201, IC202, IC212, IC234, IC256, IC278, and IC209]. Even though there are pads for an SMD capacitor behind IC203, do not install one of these capacitors for the KM155ID1 Nixie Driver:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 15 3-2) There are three major sections of circuitry on the Signal PCB. Input Signal Conditioning, Output Signal Conditioning, and the Voltage Boost Circuit for the Nixie Tube anode. Building the Voltage Boost Circuit frst, allows us to test and calibrate it before installing the rest of the components. First, install Q212 [KSP42TA], Q213 [IRFD320], D200 [UF4004], C216 [2.2nF, 100V], R242 [6.8kΩ], and VR_HV [1kΩ] into the PCB and solder them in place. Take care to not overheat Q212, Q213, and D200 while soldering. Also, don't forget to align the stripe on D200 with the stripe on its component outline on the PCB. Align Q212 so that the fat side of the component matches the fat side of the component outline on the PCB. Take notice that the two DRAIN pins on Q213 are connected externally (the two pins on the other side are not connected). These two pins match up with the stripe on the component outline on the PCB [below the text “Q213”]. Trim the leads for Q212, Q213, and D200 – Save one of the trimmed leads from D200. Be sure to refow the solder on the Q212, Q213, and D200 pins after you trim them. Take the trimmed lead that you saved from D200 to use as a jumper for the 0VDC Test Point [0VTP]. This will allow you to clip your meter's COM lead to the PCB, freeing both hands for calibrating the output voltage of the Voltage Boost Circuit in Step 3-8. Bend one of these lead clippings in the middle and insert them into the two solder pads of 0VTP and solder in place. Discard the other lead clipping:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 16 3-3) Next, install resistors R215 [56kΩ], R216 [10kΩ], R217 [1kΩ], R218 [2.2kΩ], R219 [470Ω], and R220 [220kΩ] into the PCB and solder them in place. Take notice that these resistors are installed vertically and the body of the resistor matches up with the solder pad with the circle around it. To be consistent, and to help with any later troubleshooting, I prefer to put the frst digit's band up when bending the resistor leads:

3-4) Complete the Voltage Boost Circuit by installing L200 [100µH], C215 [330µF, 25V], C217 [100pF, 2kV], C218 [2.2µF, 400V], and the socket for IC200 [8 pin DIP] into the PCB and solder them in place. With the exception of C217 [MLCC, not polarised], the other two capacitors [C215 and C218] are polarised Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors and must be installed with the correct orientation – the long pin on the capacitor is the [+] terminal. Align this pin with the [+] marks on the PCB for each capacitor. Take note that C215 and C218 are mounted horizontally:

3-5) This circuit is an important part of the build. Take a close look [under magnifcation, if you can] at the front and back of the PCB to be sure that there are no solder bridges across component pins or solder pads. Also, look for little bits of clipped leads or splashed solder as they may have ended up against other components and may short things out and cause damage. A stuck bit of splashed solder can be removed by picking at it with a pair of tweezers or small fat screwdriver. Then, a quick brush with a soft toothbrush will clear it. Once this step has been completed, you are ready to continue with the Voltage Boost Circuit testing and calibration.

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 17 3-6) Next, install the 1x10 female pin header FHDR_INPUTS onto the 1x10 male pin header MHDR_INPUTS on the RED Power/Logic PCB. Place the BLUE Signal PCB onto the RED Power/Logic PCB, being sure to line up the holes in the BLUE Signal PCB for FHDR_INPUTS with the pins of the pin header. Secure the PCBs together with two M3 x 6mm screws, and solder the pin header to the BLUE Signal PCB.

3-7) Install IC200 [NE555] into its socket, and turn the adjustment of VR_HV completely clockwise to prepare for the next step.

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 18 THE NEXT STEP EXPOSES YOU TO HAZARDOUS VOLTAGES.

Take care to not touch any of the components in the Voltage Boost Circuit with your body while calibrating the Voltage Boost Circuit.

WEAR EYE PROTECTION! [seriously, we're not messing around]

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 19 3-8) If you got ahead of yourself and inserted the Chaos Engine Microcontroller, be sure to take it out before performing the rest of this step. Insert the Eurorack Power Cable into your Chaos Divider [or, what exists so far]. Connect the Chaos Divider to your power supply of choice and energise. If no “magic smoke comes out” we are ready to proceed [if it did, turn of the power supply and change your pants]. Set your meter to measure DC Volts and clip the COM test lead to the 0VTP [0V Test Point] loop. Touch the other lead from your meter to the solder pad labelled HVTP [High Voltage Test Point]. You should be reading approximately 100VDC [±10VDC]. Slowly turn the adjustment of VR_HV anti-clockwise until you have reached the end of its travel. You should now be reading approximately 300VDC [±10VDC]. If your voltages agree with the specifcation, turn VR_HV back to the fully clockwise position, De-energise your Power Supply, power of your meter, and remove your test leads from the Chaos Divider Signal PCB:

3-9) This is a good time for a break. This time will allow the Voltage Boost circuit to dissipate any stored voltage in the capacitors. While it should take less than 15 seconds to discharge, 5 minutes is a good rule of thumb [or you can measure the voltage with your meter].

3-10) Separate the BLUE Signal PCB from the RED Power/Logic PCB by removing the two M3 x 6mm screws and pulling the two PCBs apart. Once both PCBs are separated, insert your Chaos Engine Microcontroller into the 40 pin DIP Socket [being careful to note the notch – it should be away from the crystal/close to the top edge of the RED Power/Logic PCB] and set the RED Power/Logic PCB aside.

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 20 3-11) Install the 8 pin DIP sockets for IC201, IC202, IC212, IC234, IC256, IC278, and IC209 into the Signal PCB and solder them in place:

3-12) Install resistors R221 – R229 [9 x 27kΩ] vertically into the PCB and solder them in place:

3-13) Install resistors R231, R232, R235, R236, R239, and R240 [6 x 24kΩ] vertically into the PCB and solder them in place:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 21 3-14) Install resistors R230, R233, R234, R237, R238, and R241 [6 x 47kΩ] vertically into the PCB and solder them in place:

3-15) Install D201, D202, and D203 [3 x 1N4733] into the PCB and solder them in place. Take notice that these diodes are installed vertically and the body of the diode matches up with the solder pad pointed to by the diode symbol triangle and the cathode stripe next to it. To be consistent, and to help with any later troubleshooting, I prefer to bend the anode lead so that the cathode stripe is fat against the circuit board:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 22 3-16) Install trim pots VR201-VR209 [9 x 50kΩ] into the PCB and solder them in place. You may need to press on them from underneath to be sure that they sit fat against the PCB. It is best to install them one at a time, solder one pin, move to the next trim pot, solder one pin, and continue until all of the trim pots have been installed into the PCB and have one pin soldered. My preference is to solder pin 2, the middle pin. At this point, check that they are lined up with each other. If so, trim these pins, solder the remaining pins, then refow the solder on all of the pins. You want these pins to be trimmed close to the PCB:

A quick note about trim pots VR201-VR209: These trim pots are used to adjust the voltage level of the nine Chaos Divider outputs. When the trim pot is turned completely anti-clockwise, the output voltage is approximately 5VDC, when turned completely clockwise, the output voltage is approximately 10VDC. The halfway position [as shown in the picture above with the left trim pot] is approximately 7.5-8VDC. I like to start with the trim pots at the 9 o'clock position [as shown in the picture above with the right trim pot].

3-17) Install the Nixie Tube LED [LED_NIXIE] into the PCB. Take note of the R and B markings on the component outline on the PCB. The middle pin is the common cathode. The shortest pin is the Blue LED's anode and it matches up with the B solder pad. The mid- length pin is the Red LED's anode and it matches up with the R solder pad. Be sure to insert the LED completely. Solder the center [cathode] pin frst, check for alignment, then solder the other two pins [Blue and Red ]:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 23 3-18) Install the 16 pin DIP socket for IC203 into the PCB and solder it in place:

3-19) Next, install the remaining female pin headers FHDR_NBL [1x3], FHDR_OUTPUTS1 [1x6], FHDR_OUTPUTS2 [1x5], and FHDR_NIXIE [1x10] onto the male pin headers MHDR_NBL [1x3], MHDR_OUTPUTS1 [1x6], MHDR_OUTPUTS2 [1x5], and MHDR_NIXIE [1x10] on the RED Power/Logic PCB. Place the BLUE Signal PCB onto the RED Power/Logic PCB, being sure to line up the holes in the BLUE Signal PCB with the pins of the female pin headers. Secure the PCBs together with two M3 x 6mm screws, and solder the female pin headers to the BLUE Signal PCB.

3-20) At this point, you are fnished with the BLUE Signal PCB – for now... It is recommended that you follow the next set of assembly steps closely. There are several components that must be installed in a specifc sequence in or to be successful with this build. Break time, Comrade!

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 24 PART IV – CONTROL PCB Assembly Aside from the parts in the kit, you will need the following parts [listed in build order] to complete the Chaos Divider Control PCB: Qty PCB Identifer Part Description 3 D101, D102, D105 1N4148 Silicon Small Signal Diode 2 D103, D104 1N4733 5.1V Zener Diode 2 PF101, PF102 RXEF005 [Radial 5.8mm leads, PPTC Resettable Fuse 1.1A, 16V, 40A Max] 9 R101 – R109 3.3kΩ , 1/4W, 1% Metal Film Resistor 1 SW_INVERT SPDT PCB Mount Mini-Toggle Switch 1 PB_RESET Normally Open PCB Mount Pushbutton with Black Cap 9 LED1 – LED9 Orange Water Clear 3mm LED 1 FHDR_O9 1x3 Female 0.1” Pin Header 4 FHDR_O12, FHDR_O34, 1x5 Female 0.1” Pin Header FHDR_O56, FHDR_O78 1 FHDR_CONTROLS 1x10 Female 0.1” Pin Header Control PCB - http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=977138c2a7

You will also need the following parts [Available from Modular Addict, Thonk, or Erthenvar]: Qty PCB Identifer Part Description 14 CLK, ITV, ITN, Inline 3.5mm Jacks with Nuts MOD, RST, http://modularaddict.com/parts/synth-diy-parts/pj301m12-jacks [includes nuts] OUT1 – OUT9 https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/3-5mm-jacks [includes nuts] http://shop.erthenvar.com/collections/9mm-potentiometers/products/smooth-shaft-vertical-pot http://shop.erthenvar.com/collections/accessories/products/3-5mm-knurled-nuts 3 VR_MODE, 100kΩ, Linear 9mm PCB Mount Potentiometer [100kB] VR_INTENS, https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/alpha-9mm-pots VR_INTERV http://shop.erthenvar.com/products/smooth-shaft-vertical-pot

If you want to use the same Black Anodized Knobs that we use, you can fnd them here: Qty PCB Identifer Part Description 3 VR_MODE, VR_INTENS, 13mm x 16mm black aluminum knurled knob VR_INTERV http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4SKA-13X16KBK-p/700-1901.htm

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 25 4-1) The frst step for the Control PCB is to install diodes D101, D102, and D105 [3 x 1N4148] into the PCB and solder them in place. These are polarised devices, so be sure to align the stripe on the cathode of the diode to the stripe on the component outline on the PCB:

4-2) Next, install diodes D103 and D104 [2 x 1N4733] into the PCB and solder them in place. These are polarised devices, so be sure to align the stripe on the cathode of the diode to the stripe on the component outline on the PCB:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 26 4-3) Next, install Resettable Fuses PF101 and PF102 [2 x RXEF005] into the PCB and solder them in place:

4-4) Before installing the rest of the Control and I/O components in the WHITE Control PCB, we need to install the last of the pin headers that connect the WHITE Control PCB to the BLUE Signal PCB. Install the remaining female pin headers FHDR_O9 [1x3], FHDR_O12, FHDR_O34, FHDR_O56, FHDR_O78 [1x5], and FHDR_CONTROLS [1x10] onto the male pin headers MHDR_O9 [1x3], MHDR_O12, MHDR_O34, MHDR_O56, MHDR_O78 [1x5], and MHDR_CONTROLS [1x10] on to the BLUE Signal PCB.

Place the WHITE Control PCB onto the BLUE Signal PCB, being sure to line up the holes in the WHITE Control PCB with the pins of the female pin headers. Secure the PCBs together with three pairs of M3 x 6mm screws and three female/female stand-ofs. Solder the female pin headers to the WHITE Control PCB and the male pin headers to the BLUE Signal PCB. Things will get crowded soon on the front of the WHITE Control PCB, so if you clean your fux residue, this is a good time to do it:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 27 4-5) Install resistors R101 – R109 [9 x 3.3kΩ] vertically into the PCB and solder them in place. Be careful to not touch the headers on the back of the PCB with your soldering iron:

4-6) Install LED1 – LED9 [9 x Orange 3mm], SW_INVERT [1 x SPDT Toggle Switch], PB_RESET [1 x Pushbutton], VR_MODE, VR_INTENS, VR_INTERV [3 x 100kB 9mm Potentiometer], CLK, ITV, ITN, MOD, RST [5 x 3.5mm Jack], OUT1 – OUT9 [9 x 3.5mm Jack]. DO NOT solder any of these components yet. Leave one hex nut on the Switch and screw it down completely. Be sure to clip of the alignment nubs from the 9mm as well. Depending on how parallel the front panel sits on the controls, you may or may not have to install the fat washers, one each, on the potentiometers. Make sure that the LEDs are inserted completely against the PCB and that the short leg [cathode] is next to the Out jacks. Again, DO NOT solder any these components yet:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 28 4-7) Install the Front Panel onto the Control and I/O components. Install one nut onto the INTENS potentiometer. Install jack nuts on Out 1, Out 9, and INTENS. Install the nut on the INV/NORM switch. Make sure that the RESET pushbutton operates freely. At this point, solder one pin of each component, EXCEPT for the LEDs. DO NOT solder the LEDs yet:

4-8) Flip the assembly over to check that all of the Control and I/O components are still fush against the PCB and the Front Panel. If not, make adjustments. If so, complete soldering all of these components except for the LEDs. Because of some taller components on the BLUE Signal PCB, be sure to trim the leads for PB_RESET and VR_MODE [circled in RED] – then re-fow solder as needed:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 29 4-9) Slide the LEDs towards the Front Panel until they are through the PCB and stopped by their “shoulder” against the back of the Front Panel. Once the LEDs are in place, solder them to the PCB. After soldering them, it's a good time to clean the back:

4-10) Remove the Front Panel from the Control PCB. Since they are no longer supported by the front panel, be gentle with the LEDs:

4-11) Install three of the female/female stand-ofs with three of the M3 x 6mm screws onto the back of the Control PCB:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 30 4-12) Cut two pieces of black electrical tape 2.5” [64mm] long. Note: You can use whatever color of tape that you have, but I prefer black for the following reason – the frst few output LEDs are close to the Nixie, they tend to throw orange light into the side of the Nixie tube and weaken the efect of the backlight. Wrap the frst piece of tape around Nixie so that it is aligned with the bottom of the insulator.

Since components with many long leads, like our Nixie, can be tricky to install into a PCB, here is a trick that works well to help us install it one lead at a time. Descending trim on Nixie leads – leave the Anode un-cut and cut each lead about 1/16” [2mm] shorter than the last one. The shortest lead should still be about 1/2” [12mm] long.

Wrap the second piece of tape around the Nixie starting about 1/4” [6mm] past the bottom insulator. Insert into the BLUE Signal PCB. The leads do not go the entire way around the Nixie [there is a space between the Anode lead and the lead for element 9], so it should be straight forward to ensure that you do not install the Nixie Tube upside-down. Reference the picture for which lead is which and match it up with the Signal PCB:

4-13) Connect the WHITE Control PCB to the BLUE Signal PCB with the pin headers and three more M3 x 6mm screws through the BLUE Signal PCB. Align Nixie Tube with opening in the WHITE Control PCB. You can also add the front panel to confrm alignment. If it is really of center, you can use a 1mm guitar pick as a shim to hold it in place. Solder Nixie leads to the BLUE Signal PCB. Take note that the leads will wick solder up towards the Nixie, so do not get heavy handed with the solder. Use just enough to make a good connection and solder joint:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 31 4-14) Separate the PCBs and install IC203 [KM155ID1] into its socket.

4-15) Connect BLUE Signal PCB to the RED Power/Logic PCB with the pin headers only. Confrm that VR_HV is fully clockwise. As mentioned previously, adjusting the Voltage Boost Circuit EXPOSES YOU TO HAZARDOUS VOLTAGES. Take care to not touch any of the components in the Voltage Boost Circuit with your body while calibrating the Voltage Boost Circuit. WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Connect the Chaos Divider to your power supply of choice and energise. If no “magic smoke comes out” we are ready to proceed. Slowly turn the adjustment of VR_HV anti-clockwise until the Nixie “ignites” and you can see the Zero digit glowing. Using the connections 0VTP and HVTP [like you did in step 3- 8], confrm that the anode voltage is between 155VDC and 160VDC. If not, adjust [using VR_HV] until it is in that range. Also, take note that the Blue Nixie backlight should also be on. De-energise your Power Supply:

4-16) This is another good spot for a break. This time will allow the Voltage Boost circuit to dissipate any stored voltage in the capacitors.

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 32 4-17) Separate the BLUE Signal PCB from the RED Power/Logic PCB. Install IC201, IC202, IC212, IC234, IC256, IC278, and IC209 [7 x TLV2372] into the BLUE Signal PCB. I also like to mark VR_HV with a sharpie for future reference as well as put an [X] near VR_HV to remind myself that this step is done if I am building more than one at a time:

4-18) Using two more M3 x 6mm screws [down through the front of the BLUE Signal PCB in the holes next to VR201 and VR209], install the fnal two female/female stand-ofs onto the back of the BLUE Signal PCB:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 33 4-19) Connect the WHITE Control PCB to the BLUE Signal PCB. Use a M3 x 6mm screw in the mounting hole closest to the Nixie tube to fasten them together. Use the two female/male stand-ofs with the two other female/female stand-ofs on the WHITE Control PCB:

4-20) Connect the Red Power/Logic PCB to the WHITE/BLUE PCB stack. Secure with four more M3 x 6mm screws through the back of the RED Power/Logic PCB:

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 34 4-21) Install the Front Panel onto the PCB stack and install all nuts on switch, pots, and jacks. Install knobs on VR_MODE, VR_INTENS, and VR_INTERV:

4-22) Power up and Play! Job well done, Udarnik!!

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 35 Expressions of Gratitude A Siberian Sized Spasibo to Kylee and Cory for testing the prototype Chaos Divider and CD Sputnik. Your feedback and suggestions regarding everything from packaging and component selection, to the modules themselves has been invaluable in making this module a lot of fun to use and durable as a tank.

Massivnyy thanks to Kylee, James, and Brendon for assembling the Chaos Divider and CD Sputnik kits to proof the DIY Build Documents. Your feedback has been invaluable in ensuring the quality and accuracy of these instructions.

Ursa Major [like giant Russian Circus Bear sized] thanks to Hannes Pasqualini at Papernoise for taking the disjointed thoughts, suggestions, and ramblings of my childhood love of all things Cosmonaut and turning them into the FREAKING AWESOME visual language that would be at home in a space station 250 miles [402 km] high traveling at 17,000 mph [27,359 kph].

Support and Contact Information: If you should have any issues or questions about the assembly of your Kosmodrom Chaos Divider, you can reach us at: [email protected] We will make every efort to reply to you as soon as we possibly can.

If you would like to sign up for our mailing list [one monthly email max, and occasional re-stock notifcations], please fll out the form here: http://tsyklon.com/contact/

If you prefer not to sign up for the email list, but still want to stay up to date, please keep an eye on this page: http://tsyklon.com/updates/

User Manuals, DIY Build Documents and Schematics, Microcontroller source code, and Firmware upgrade fles can be found here: http://tsyklon.com/product-support/

Please note that compiled frmware upgrade fles will be freely available, and instructions will be part of the documentation for that. If you aren't interested in downloading and performing your own frmware upgrades, pre-loaded Microcontrollers will also be available for sale.

Document Published: 5 NOVEMBER 2016

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 36 INTERPRETING COMPONENT DESIGNATIONS FOR TSYKLON LABS MODULES As much as possible, we have tried to be very consistent with how our components are labeled on our Printed Circuit Boards (PCBs). Aside from being consistent component to component, PCB to PCB, and module to module within our own products – we have also done as much as possible to be consistent with standard naming conventions used by other module designers. The table below lists component types and their designations. We will use 000 in place of the identifcation numbers normally used so that you can see what the component number will look like. Most prefxes are one to two characters long, but can occasionally be three characters. Component ID EXAMPLE COMPoNENT TYPE R R000 Resistor C C000 Capacitor PB PB_RESET Push Button SW SW_INVERT Switch (Toggle) VR VR000 Variable Resistor (Potentiometer or Trimmer) LED LED000 Light Emitting Diode D D000 Diode Q Q000 Transistor (BJT, FET, or MOSFET) IC IC000 MHDR MHDR_NBL Male Header FHDR FHDR_NBL Female Header FB FB000 Ferrite Bead XTAL CLK_XTAL Quartz Crystal REG 10VREG Voltage Regulator PF PF000 Resettable Poly Fuse POWER POWER Power Header (2x5 or 2x8) L L000 Inductor

With regard to the numeric part of the component designation – 100 series numbers are for the PCB closest to the Front Panel. 200 series numbers are the next PCB behind the frst, 300 series belong to the PCB behind that. While it would make sense that 400 series component numbers are for the next PCB behind that, in some cases those components are on the PCB for the expander module. Make sense? Great, go forth and build!

DIY Build DOC/BOM KOSMODROM CHAOS DIVIDER V 1.4 Page 37 D C E B A 1 1 9 7 5 3 1 2 2 10 8 6 4 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6

3 1 2 7 7 8 8 D C E B A D C E B A 1 1 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2 2 3 3

P2 P1 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 10 11 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 RD1 RD0 RC3 RC2 RC1 RC0 OSC2 OSC1 VSS VDD AN7 AN6 AN5 AN4 RA4 AN3 AN2 AN1 AN0 MCLR 4 4 3 2 1

1 2 3 4 5 6 9 7 5 3 1 5 5 10 8 6 4 2 PGM PGC PGD VDD RD2 RD3 RC4 RC5 RC6 RC7 RD4 RD5 RD6 RD7 VSS RB0 RB1 RB2 RB3 RB4 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 6 6

1 2 3 4 5 7 6 7 7 8 9 10 5 4 3 2 1 6 5 4 3 2 1 8 8 D C E B A D C E B A 1 1 2 2 1 3 2 3 3 4 4 4 1 5 2 GND CV R TR 5 5 THR DIS V+ Q 8 6 7 3 6 6 7 7 8 8 D C E B A D C E B A 1 1 12 2 2 0V +5V 5 3 3 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 3 2 1 7 6 4 3 4 4 C B D A Q0 Q9 Q8 Q7 Q6 Q5 Q4 Q3 Q2 Q1 16 2 1 10 11 14 13 9 8 15 5 5 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A 6 6 7 7 8 8 D C E B A D C E B A 1 1 2 2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 3 3 4 3 2 1 4 4 5 6 7 8 4 3 2 1 5 5 5 6 7 8 6 6 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 7 7 8 8 D C E B A D C E B A 1 1 6 5 4 3 2 1 2 2 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1

1 8 1 8 1 8

3 2 7 2 7 2 7 3 3 6 3 6 3 6 4 5 4 5 4 5 2 2 2 1 3 1 3 1 3 5 4 3 2 1 5 4 3 2 1 5 4 3 2 1 4 4 5 5 5 4 3 2 1 6 6 3 2 1 3 1 8 2 2 7 1 3 6 4 5 1 8 2 7 7 3 6 7 4 5 2 1 3 3 2 1 5 4 3 2 1 8 8 D C E B A D C E B A 1 1 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3

1 3 1 3 1 3 2 2 2 2 2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 3 3 4 4 2 1 3 5 4 3 2 1 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 5 5 6 6 7 7 3 2 1 5 4 3 2 1 5 4 3 2 1 5 4 3 2 1 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 P1 P2 P3 8 8 D C E B A