cocktail corner by Dale DeGroff Libations with the Goddess Mixologist Audrey Saunders’ Famed Pegu Club in Takes Patrons on a “ Journey”

Cocktail enthusiasts make their home at friend at a bar is like taking the train to Pegu Club not just for the great drinks and Washington from New York! Competition is atmosphere, but for the proprietor Audrey growing among members of the community.” Saunders (also known as the “Libation In August of 2005, Audrey opened Pegu Goddess”). When Audrey comes out to greet Club, which takes its inspiration from the you, you know you belong there; it’s as simple original 1800's British officer’s club in as that. Rangoon which was famous for their Pegu Audrey came to the bartending profes- Cocktail. The Pegu Club is an oasis of style, sion as a midlife career change. She had a flavor and class, and is brimming with distinct culinary bent that had been calling unusual concepts. Cocktail condiments are to her for some time. Finally, in 1995, provided at each table to allow the guest to Audrey went to work at the Waterfront Ale adjust their with bitter, sweet, , House in , a great neighborhood and spice (reminiscent of old chop houses PEGU COCKTAIL saloon. The owners took Audrey in like a that offered condiments at the table). Her A -based classic from Pegu Club, cousin who needed a spot even though she back bar is filled with bottles and vials of Burma couldn’t exhibit much more than raw enthu- tinctures including a liquid spice rack of 2 ounces (50ml) Tanqueray Gin siasm and passion. infused . 3/4 ounce (15ml) Orange Curacao After her first week behind the bar, at the Audrey explained to me as I enjoyed a 3/4 ounce (15ml) Fresh Lime Juice suggestion of her manager and fellow bar- guided tour of the back bar, “This is a scary 1 Dash Orange Bitters tender Cory Hill, who now works at Danny bar to walk into if you’re a Cosmo drinker and 1 Dash Angostura Bitters Meyer’s 11 Madison Avenue as head bar- the bartenders need to be especially welcom- tender, she took a seminar with me at NYU. ing. They need to take you on a journey.” Shake, strain and serve up. After the class, she approached me and offered to work for free as an apprentice to A passion for the craft GIN GIN MULE* learn the craft of bartending. Years later when Pegu Club was voted "Best New Cocktail 1/2 ounce (15ml) Lime Juice I opened Blackbird, I invited her to work Bar" by Time Out New York and best bar in 1/2 ounce (15ml) Simple Syrup with me behind the bar. Within a short time New York Magazine’s “Best of New York” 6 Mint Sprigs Audrey was managing the bar whenever I was issue, among many other honors. Audrey's 3/4 ounce (20ml) Ginger away on travel. goal of establishing a beacon for those who 1 1/2 ounces (50ml) Tanqueray Gin She continued to perfect her skills and value the craft of the cocktail has been most Soda Splash eventually accepted the position of beverage artfully achieved. Her active support for char- Muddle lime juice, simple syrup, and manager at the Carlyle Hotel's Bemelmans itable causes along with her willingness to mint. Shake all (except soda) and Bar, one of New York's most venerated rooms. reach out to young people eager to learn strain into a glass. Top with a It meant taking over a small senior bar staff mixology are examples of her dedication to splash of soda. Garnish with lime with a very strong union. She handled them her community and her passion for the craft. wedge. with a delicate but firm touch. Her program Audrey’s style at Pegu is dedicated to consis- included all fresh juices and exotic prepara- tency and precision. Pegu is a jigger bar; all FRENCH PEARL* tions like homemade ginger beer for her sig- ingredients are measured. 2 ounces (50ml) Plymouth Gin nature cocktails like the Gin Gin Mule. Running a saloon is a fulltime occupa- 3/4 ounce (15ml) Lime Juice Bemelmans Bar was the perfect laboratory for tion, but Audrey has nonetheless managed to 3/4 ounce (15ml) Simple Syrup Audrey to work out her personal style. carve out a small amount of time to develop a 1/4 ounce (7ml) Pernod unique personal style as a presenter. She has 1 Mint Sprig The global cocktail joined the growing number of dedicated pro- I asked Audrey to comment on the state fessionals who circle the globe spreading the Muddle, shake, and double-strain into of the cocktail and whether she had felt the word of the fresh culinary style cocktail. a chilled retro . sea change that has swept our industry. She Mixologist and cocktail historian David responded, “Do you mean the global cocktail? Wondrich called the cocktail “America’s first *Original cocktail by Audrey There are really tight relationships in this culinary tradition,” and Audrey is dedicated Saunders community. Flying over to London to visit a to reviving that tradition. Illustration by Jill DeGroff