L'oréal Paris Signs Influencers

20 February 2017 Issue 6 cosmeticsbusiness.com NEWS

BUSINESS 2 COMMENT 5 EXPERT ADVICE 7 PEOPLE 11 Coty misses Q2 2017 earnings The Body Shop: P&G talks the future of TRESemmé signs celebrity following P&G deal What went wrong? sustainability hairstylist Justine Marjan © L’Oréal

L’ORÉAL PARIS SIGNS INFLUENCERS Church & Dwight Six new influencers have partnered with the brand for its #GotItCovered campaign acquires Viviscal as it launches its new Infallible Total Cover Foundation and Total Concealer Palette The US’ Church & Dwight o promote its latest colour cosmetics The promotional ad features the six influencers has acquired hair growth launches, L’Oréal Paris has teamed up with and text that flags up their main skin concern. A supplements brand Viviscal Tsix new influencers. neon pink strip then crosses the screen presenting from Ireland-based Lifes2good, The line-up includes: Kaushal Beauty, Patricia each influencer wearing the foundation and in a deal worth u150m. Bright, Jamie Genevieve, Jake Jamie, Rady and looking flawless, before the hashtag In 2016, the Viviscal brand Louisa Johnson. The influencers feature in a TV #GotItCovered flashes up. enjoyed a 33% increase in sales ad, and will also appear in print marketing It is the second time that L’Oréal Paris has globally on the back of its including in-store visuals in Superdrug and Boots. signed a male influencer to a campaign. In growing business in the US. L’Oréal is promoting its new Infallible Total September last year, the brand released its Entrepreneur James Murphy, Cover Foundation and Total Concealer Palette #YoursTruly campaign featuring 23 of the UK’s Founder of Lifes2good, said of product launches, which provide full foundation most influential and inspirational individuals. The the sale: “We are delighted that coverage able to mask redness, acne, shine, brand’s first male model Gary Thompson was Church & Dwight... will lead uneven skin tone and tattoos. among those signed, which led to widespread the brand in its next phase of The products come in a variety of shades to press coverage. Jake Jamie, who runs the blog The development.” Viviscal is suit different skin tones, with colours including Beauty Boy, is the latest male ambassador to work currently sold in more than Radiant Beige and Cappuccino. with L’Oréal Paris. 30,000 locations globally.

MYSHOWCASE REVEALS AMBITIOUS PLANS yShowcase has revealed ambitious plans MyShowcase currently operates with a network NEWS for the £1m it recently secured after of 1,600 stylists who sell products to the general Mrunning a crowdfunding campaign on public by holding Showcase events and through 20 February 2017 Crowdcube. their own websites within myshowcase.com. The company, which sells products via its Cruickshank explained that new stylists are Issue 6 website and network of ‘stylists’, recently offered a kit when they sign up. “The proposition cosmeticsbusiness.com recorded the highest ever beauty related raise via is you spend £149 and we give you about £350 the crowdfunding platform, while simultaneously worth of products, plus marketing materials from becoming the first to close £1m in 2017. a white table cloth to printed beauty books and Editor Talking to Cosmetics Business, Nancy catalogues,” she said. Lucy Tandon Copp Cruickshank, Co-Founder and CEO, said: “The “We will be developing more content. We Reporter really significant new areas that we will invest in develop tonnes of it now, but largely that’s Sarah Parsons is really starting to bring our personal shopping directed at stylists to really build their knowledge Sub Editor service to life digitally.” and they then share with their customers. Austyn King She continued: “Our website today is “But we’ll develop more of that that they can Contributors functionally very robust then pass along but likewise Patricia Mansfield-Devine because one of my business can also be utilised directly by partners is Olivier Beau de customers.” Art Editor Loménie, who is our CTO Stylists are supported with Sibylla Duffy and my Co-Founder, and he content that helps them build Digital Production learned technology at their knowledge of the Nita Salem Ocado. He built the whole products and partner brands, Head of Print & technology there and ran it which now total more than 50 Digital Production for seven years. So he’s a bit including Percy & Reed, Ross Murdoch of a rock star software Neom, Legology, New CID, Managing Director engineer. Face Stockholm, Kure Bazaar Colin Bailey-Wood “But we haven’t spent any and more. Four new brands time really finessing that are due to join MyShowcase consumer experience and I in the coming months, think we are about to start to including one make-up brand see that change on the site.” and three skin care brands. Cosmetics Business HPCi Media Limited Natraj Building COTY MISSES Q2 2017 EARNINGS Alibaba opens Australian and The Tanneries, FOLLOWING P&G DEAL 55 Bermondsey St, Coty reported net revenues of $2.29bn in Q2 New Zealand headquarters London SE1 3XG 2017, up 90% compared to the prior year period. Alibaba Group, the operator of e-commerce +44 20 7193 1279 The results are the first to be released since the platform Tmall and Taobao, has opened its [email protected] completion of Coty’s takeover of P&G’s beauty Australian and New Zealand headquarters in Subscriptions business. The deal involved a handover of 41 Melbourne, Australia. +44 20 7193 1279 brands for approximately $12.5bn. Tmall, Alibaba’s consumer retail website, is [email protected] However, Coty’s Q2 EPS fell short of the mark home to more than 1,300 Australian and 400 New at $0.30, coming in under the $0.33 that analysts Zealand brands. Founder and Executive Chairman Editorial predicted. As a result, shares in the company Jack Ma said: “Australia will always have a special +44 20 7193 9502 plummeted in the days after the announcement. place in my heart and that’s why I am so pleased [email protected] Coty put this down to short term transitional to come back to contribute to supporting impacts including higher-than-expected Australian businesses to create opportunities and inventory levels in the market on the P&G jobs in a country that has meant so much for me. beauty business, as well as “Whether a large company with existing links to competitive pressure in the China or a mum-and-dad-run exporter operating consumer beauty division and out of a garage, Alibaba Group is here to make it “distraction” due to the easy to do business anywhere.” ©HPCi Media Limited merger. The new HQ is on Collins Street and the team Articles published in this publication may only be reproduced with permission. The In an earnings call, CEO will be headed up by Maggie Zhou, Australian publisher accepts no responsibility for any Camillo Pane said: “Although and New Zealand Managing Director. At the statements made in signed contributions or opening, Ma also signed a memorandum of in those reproduced from any other source. fiscal 2017 is a transitional ISSN 2057-1984 year, we have already started understanding with Australia Post to help to tackle the growth Australian businesses grow their international challenges of our business.” presence. The agreement will see Alibaba work Pane also said he expected with Australia Post to develop the first Australian the net revenue decline to slow marketplace within the Lazada e-commerce down in H2 of fiscal 2017. network in Southeast Asia.

CODE BEAUTIFUL ENTERS NEW MARKETS NEWS IN BRIEF ODE Beautiful, a UK- EUROFRAGANCE, the based beauty brand, has Catalan fragrance design C revealed plans to expand and creation company, saw into Europe, appointing turnover grow by 9% in 2016 distributors in four new to reach u68.8m. The territories: Spain, Sweden, company saw significant Denmark and France. growth in areas of The brand has chosen its local expansion. This included distributors carefully in the hope sales boosts in Asia Pacific and America, both areas that the expansion will further its where Eurofragance is goal of “pushing manufacturing making heavy investment. boundaries to create products that The company recently are better than anything out opened a new plant in there”. Channels include: fashion Singapore, while increasing retailers, high end pharmacies production capacity at its and independent beauty salons. Mexico factory. Eurofragance Co-Founder Sarah Cross explained: “Part of Cross added that the expansion is expected to be has grown its workforce by 14.4% to 254 employees. the reason we’ve been so selective about our “a huge success”. stockists and brand collaborations is because we The brand is hoping to build on the positive believe CODE Beautiful should remain focused word-of-mouth and social media buzz generated on originality and independence, ensuring we by its launch in the UK and Ireland, and has maintain our authenticity. We see 2017 as a key chosen key partners across Europe who will work year for the brand and will continue to drive new with beauty influencers or ‘seeders’ to promote its product development and our global presence.” products to the public.

WALMART CEO MEETS TRUMP L'ORÉAL recently celebrated AMOREPACIFIC, the Korean cosmetics TO TALK ECONOMY AND JOBS the 20th anniversary of its company behind brands including Etude, Walmart’s CEO Doug McMillon recently met launch into China, announcing Laneige and innisfree, has confirmed with President Trump as part of the first business plans to become more Chinese overall sales growth of 18.3% in 2016. consumer-centric. As part of the council at the White House. The company has benefited from strong Shanghai celebration, L’Oréal McMillon was said to have described the meet sales globally, with reported sales reaching announced the L’Oréal China as “constructive” and “candid”, according to KRW6.69 trillion and operating profit of Women Empowerment Fund, Reuters. “I look forward to continued discussions KRW1.82 trillion. Looking at the breakdown in partnership with the China of AmorePacific’s operations, overseas with the administration, consistent with our long Women’s Development business experienced high growth thanks standing belief that it’s always better to be Foundation. The fund will to five “champion brands”, said the engaged in trying to shape solutions than sitting finance 20 projects across company. These brands include on the sidelines,” McMillon said in a statement China, dedicated to helping Sulwhasoo, Laneige, Mamonde, innisfree and empowering women. after the meeting. and Etude. Other business leaders present included In Asia, sales growth was 38% year-on- CALLCARE has revealed Stephen Schwarzman of Blackstone, JPMorgan year, while in North America, 10% was new insight into what Chase’s Jamie Dimon, Tesla’s Elon Musk and achieved. In Europe, there was 4% growth. consumers expect when it But domestic sales remain the company’s General Motors’ Mary Barra. comes to customer service. strength, with sales in Korea totalling KRW4 In a press conference, Trump said that there The telephone answering trillion, up 12%. While luxury business and were 227,000 jobs created in the US in January – solutions provider found that premium business performed well, the best figures since September. In January, between 2014 and 2016, strengthened by the opening of new customers have started Walmart announced plans to create Sulwhasoo stores and strong seeking customer service approximately 10,000 retail jobs through the travel retail figures, mass more on Saturdays. Data opening of 59 new, expanded and relocated business saw sales decline. reveals that there is a 60% Walmart and Sam’s Club stores and e-commerce A toothpaste recall in increase in the number of September last year and a services. Trump said: “There’s a great spirit in the customer service calls made sluggish performance for country right now, so we’re very happy about on this day. Saturday has the oral care sector were that. We’re bringing back jobs, we’re bringing become almost as busy as a cited as the key factors down your taxes, we’re getting rid of your normal working day for a behind this. customer service adviser regulations and I think it’s going to be some very AmorePacific has also between 9am and 6pm. exciting times ahead.” recently lost the license to However, consumers are not Walmart has not previously commented Lolita Lempicka. Last bound by these hours and publicly on Trump and his administration. month rumours were are increasingly seeking circulating that it was to lay However, The Financial Times reported that help outside of them, with off 81 employees from its congressional aides said the retailer sent “top tax calls coming in as early as French subsidiary. executives” to warn decision-makers that Trump’s 7am and as late as 8pm. import tax proposal would impact business.

NEWS IN BRIEF THE TWO KYLIES BATTLE OVER TRADEMARK op icon Kylie Minogue has CHURCH & DWIGHT, the won a legal battle against parent company behind brands including Batiste and Psocial media influencer and Viviscal, has announced its reality TV star Kylie Jenner – at Q4 and full-year 2016 least, for the time being. figures. The company saw Jenner lodged a trademark EPS grow 13.6% to $1.75 application to use the name Kylie in per share, while adjusted the US on 1 April 2015, which was EPS was $1.77 per share, swiftly opposed by Minogue. exceeding expectations. On 6 February, the Patent Office Full year sales grew 2.9% rejected Jenner’s application,

to $3.45bn. The Batiste dry ©Renan Katayama shampoo brand was credited although Jenner’s team has already for helping boost the filed an appeal, The Daily Mail company’s organic sales reported. both domestically and Jenner has a growing beauty internationally. empire, with her hero product being her Lip Kits. She recently opened a bricks-and-mortar pop-up in LA featuring a rainbow Lip Kit Wall. exhibitionism on social media. Minogue’s lawyers rebuked the 2015 On the other hand, the document application, stating that Jenner is a “secondary acknowledged the pop singer is an reality television personality who appeared on the “internationally renowned performing artist, television series Keeping Up With the Kardashians humanitarian and breast cancer activist”, and as a supporting character, to Ms Jenner’s half- reasserted the fact that Minogue has achieved sisters Kim, Khloe and Kourtney Kardashian”. worldwide record sales of over 80 million singles ELEMENTIS, a UK specialty The filing continued by claiming that Minogue and albums. chemicals heavyweight, has acquired SummitReheis, a is known worldwide simply as Kylie, whereas The filing also noted that Minogue already supplier of specialty additives in Jenner has drawn criticism from the Disability owns the US trademark for Kylie in education the antiperspirant and personal Rights and African-American communities for and entertainment, as well as music recordings care market. SummitReheis has her controversial posts and photographic and jewellery. strong customer relationships with big names in the cosmetics industry including Unilever, SYMRISE SIGNS BUSINESS P&G, L’Oréal, Colgate- AND BIODIVERSITY PLEDGE JOHNSON & Palmolive and Beiersdorf. More JOHNSON (J&J) Symrise, a Germany-based fragrance than 60% of SummitReheis’ has announced sales are generated by its manufacturer, has become one of the first plans to switch antiperspirant actives business. companies to sign the Business and Biodiversity from plastic to Elementis has paid US$360m to Pledge, affirming its commitment to preserving paper stem cotton buy SummitReheis, creating an and protecting the diversity of natural habitats, buds to help fight enlarged personal care ecosystems, plant and animal species. the growing business with annual sales of The pledge is a voluntary commitment to act environmental roughly $200m. Paul Waterman, in accordance with the core goals of the UN issues the plastic CEO of Elementis, said: varieties cause. Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD), “Together with our existing Plastic cotton buds are causing business, the acquisition of which was created to prevent further loss of significant damage to public health, SummitReheis is transformative biological diversity around the world. according to Scotland-based for our personal care business.” Its main objectives are the conservation of environmental charity Fidra, as they end biological diversity; the sustainable use of natural up on beaches and in the sea after being APTARGROUP has resources; and the fair and equitable sharing of flushed down the toilet by consumers. announced its Q4 and full- the benefits gained from these resources. The plastic buds are a danger to marine year results for 2016. The Symrise’s business model is affected by the life when eaten and pose a public health dispensing product provider risk as they absorb harmful chemicals increasing loss of biodiversity both directly and reported a 1% decline in when passing through the sewage system sales to $539m from $547m indirectly, the company said, and its decision to and onto beaches. Following discussions the year prior, while reported sign the pledge will shape its sustainability with Fidra, which runs The Cotton Bud earnings per share grew strategy going forwards. Hans Holger Gliewe, Project, J&J is seekig a solution to these 13% to $0.77. Annual Chief Sustainability Officer at Symrise, said: problems by switching to paper stems and reported sales grew 1%, “Symrise has been dedicated to protecting campaigning to educate consumers about while reported annual biodiversity and natural habitats for many years. proper cotton bud disposal. earnings per share grew to “We want to continue to bolster protecting the Using paper cotton buds instead of $3.17, up 5%. The Beauty + plastic will ensure that those that are environment and natural resources in Home segment continued to flushed will become waterlogged and be affected by “challenging conjunction with our core business, which is why settle out of wastewater, instead of conditions” across markets. we are among the first to sign the Business and washing up on beaches. Biodiversity Pledge.”

THE BODY SHOP: WHAT WENT WRONG? L’Oréal is selling The Body Shop, just over a decade after it shelled out £652m to buy it. Dame Anita Roddick founded the brand in 1976 and saw it flourish, as consumers flocked to buy its trusty body butters and fruity scents. Come 2016, however, and The Body Shop’s sales have dropped 4.8% to 3920.8m – a diminishing piece of L’Oréal’s takings. So what happened to this heritage brand?

“IT DIDN’T RUN WITH “THE BRAND “ITS POSITIONING ITS OWN CONCEPT SUFFERED A CASE HAS NOT BEEN SOON ENOUGH” OF TUNNEL VISION” STRONG ENOUGH” ~ Lucy Tandon Copp, Editor ~ Sarah Parsons, Reporter ~ Jo Allen, Editor

“Whenever I see The Body Shop today “‘Nobody talks of entrepreneurship as “I am not convinced The Body Shop I feel nostalgic. Satsuma bubble baths survival, but that’s exactly what it is and fitted easily within L’Oréal’s portfolio. and strawberry Born Lippys remind me what nurtures creative thinking’. Anita Some customers were disappointed by fondly of my youth, but I wouldn’t buy Roddick’s words are sadly relevant to its acquisition in 2006, sceptical over them today. The brand’s main problem The Body Shop’s current situation. The whether it would remain cruelty-free is that it didn’t run with its own concept brand has become an armchair on the – a core value of The Body Shop – and soon enough and failed to grow up with high street – a comforting cup of tea frustrated about it falling into the hands its early customers. The brand was rather than an energising caffeine of a corporate. It was awkward then, onto a great thing under Anita Roddick, boost. Under L’Oréal, store growth and still feels that way today. The Body ahead of its time with its natural and trumped brand and product Shop has underperformed for L’Oréal, ethical values. But L’Oréal was too slow, development growing from 2,000 to and one reason for this is that its or perhaps unwilling, to refresh branding more than 3,000 stores. Unfortunately, positioning as a natural and ethical or market exciting formulas to new and the brand suffered a serious case of brand has not been strong enough to existing customers. All the while, the tunnel vision, ignoring the growth in the compete with the tidal wave of other UK market has been catching up and natural beauty sector. Hopefully by brands that washed in with the natural now natural and organic beauty is becoming free of its mogul owners, and organic uprising. Before the market widespread. There’s still hope for The survival mode will kick back in and caught up, The Body Shop had a Body Shop – it’s doing well in certain Roddick’s progressive ethos will be distinct point of difference. Whoever markets – but investment is required.” remembered in the brand’s revival.” buys it needs to create a new one.”

NEWS IN BRIEF

DR. HAUSCHKA, the organic and natural skin care brand, is celebrating its 50th anniversary with a pop- up space due to open in March. The brand will also be unveiling a completely new category in the same month. Dr. Hauschka is certified natural and organic by Natrue. Three of its Rose Day Creams are sold every two minutes globally and the brand’s products are sold in 45 countries worldwide. CLARINS has opened its first outlet in the US, in the King of Prussia Mall in Pennsylvania. DR DENNIS GROSS, a New The mall is the largest in the US and houses 400 stores, including department stores such as York-based dermatologist with Neiman Marcus, and four food courts with 40 eateries. an eponymously named skin The Clarins concession measures around 170sqm and includes a 25sqm open spa at its centre care brand, launched his where customers can receive 30-minute facials. Customers can find the full Clarins range, products in Selfridges in the UK including sun protection and men’s products, as well as a special section for travel products. earlier this month. The retail Natalie Bader, President of the Clarins Group, said: “We want to be able to listen to [customers], deal includes the exclusive offer personalised advice and have a chance to really pamper them.” London debut of the new four- A new manual diagnostic tool and personalised coaching about Clarins’ application methods for sku product line C+Collagen, skin care and make-up will also be available. The company opened its first free standing store in which comprises a serum, mist, Hong Kong in November last year and says it has plans for a similar outlet in Paris. moisturiser and eye cream. The The new Clarins store is part of a large luxury wing expansion in the King of Prussia Mall. US brand has been available in Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Oliver Peoples are due to take up residence in the new wing in 2017. the UK for ten years. To support the expansion into Selfridges, Gross, and his wife and CEO Carrie Gross, will offer MARIE CLAIRE LURES PREMIUM Baobab takes a shine to UK consultations and treatments in BEAUTY FANS WITH FABLED the high end retailer’s Beauty Marie Claire, a Time Inc consumer magazine Luxury candle brand Baobab Collection is Room. Dr Dennis Gross skin care is sold in 17 countries brand, is attracting premium beauty fans through opening its first UK store in London this April. through outlets including its new Fabled by Marie Claire beauty offering. The Belgian brand is primarily available in Sephora, Space NK and The brand’s website, where consumers can London via premium department stores, such as Net-a-Porter. buy beauty products, is supported by a physical Harrods and Selfridges. However, the brand is retail space in the West End of London, UK. planning for the new Knightsbridge location to LIPPULAIVA, a Brands available include Estée Lauder, Bobbi become its second flagship store. shopping centre located Brown, Urban Decay, NARS and Perricone MD. “It was natural for us to open a second flagship in Espoonlahti in Helsinki, Justine Southall, Time Inc UK’s Managing in London to truly develop our visibility Finland, is due to undergo a complete demolishment and Director, Fashion & Beauty, said: “Fabled by worldwide,” said Corinne Bensahel, Senior Vice rebuild under development Marie Claire is attracting premium beauty fans President Marketing and Brand Development for company Citycon Oyj. The across the country. Getting the magazine into Baobab Collection. project will result in double their hands while they are in the Fabled by Marie Customers will be able to purchase the full the gross leasable area at Claire environment is a fantastic marketing Baobab Collection and explore the debut of the 40,000sqm, with a cost of opportunity for our print product.” summer collection, Mikea. The brand claims to u approximately 200m. The Fabled by Marie Claire launched last year in specialise in ‘handcrafted’ candles, as each one centre will re-open in 2020 partnership with grocery retailer Ocado. The has been hand poured into glass vases created by and over 60% has so far been pre-leased. The centre physical store is a two-floor 7,200sqft space on artisan glass blowers. For its latest collection, the will have a strong focus on Tottenham Court Walk. It marks Ocado’s second brand has worked with a Madagascan cooperative grocery stores including Lidl. bricks-and-mortar location, with its other being to create the products. The cooperative will focused on its pet business Fetch. receive a percentage of the candle sales.

Lisa Jennings, Vice President, Head & Shoulders and Global Hair Care Sustainability Leader, Procter & Gamble

Do consumers understand enough about the impact of microplastics in water? Consumers are increasingly aware about environmental challenges. A year ago at the World Economic Forum in Davos, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation raised awareness about the need for greater recovery and reuse of plastics. origins and differentiation from This year, P&G announced two the rest of the category. It is initiatives that will continue P&G TALKS important to note that this is raising awareness about this the world’s first recyclable topic: first, Head & Shoulders shampoo bottle made with will partner with leading SUSTAINABLE HDPE PCR plastic derived recycling experts, TerraCycle from plastic collected from and SUEZ, to pioneer a new beaches. approach to produce the world’s first recyclable shampoo bottle PACKAGING What is P&G’s sustainability made with plastic collected vision for the future? from beaches. Second, more Head & Shoulders’ new shampoo bottle is made Protecting the earth is both a than half a billion bottles per entirely from recycled beach plastic. But what else will responsibility and a business year in Europe will include up it take to move towards a more sustainable future? opportunity. Our goal is to to 25% PCR plastic by the end create brands that enable of 2018. This represents more collected from the beach is habits. By purchasing the new consumers to make more than 90% of all the hair care transformed into grey Head & Shoulders bottle, sustainable choices. Our vision bottles sold in Europe across recyclable pellets, and we consumers are is that one day there will be no P&G’s Hair Care portfolio of wanted to keep it that way. On actively waste going to a landfill, and in flagship brands like Pantene the front design we explain that contributing 2017, we announced that by and Head & Shoulders. While the bottle is made with beach to giving 2020 all of our manufacturing this is just the start of a journey, plastic and on the back design plastic sites would send zero we believe this programme is a we thank the thousands of waste a production waste to landfill. way to give plastic waste a volunteers that helped collect second Since P&G began qualifying second life and inspire plastic from the beach to make life. sites as zero manufacturing consumers to recycle. this happen and encourage waste to landfill, 56% of its consumers to recycle. P&G’s global production sites have How is P&G explaining the new achieved this milestone and new packaging to consumers? Whose responsibility is it to bottle is plans are now in place to The new Head & Shoulders minimise plastic waste? grey in complete the remaining beach bottle comes in a grey We all have a role to play. colour. facilities over the next four colour, signalling its recycling Companies like P&G and Why? years. The launch of the new origins. Consumers recognise other leaders in their industry The grey Head & Shoulders beach bottle Head & Shoulders for its iconic need to step up, invest and get Head & is an important step in the bottle shape and white and blue involved in the long term Shoulders company’s journey. colours [but] the Head & solutions. But we cannot do it bottle Shoulders beach plastic bottle is alone. Consumers also have to signals both Share this interview on grey because the plastic adopt sustainable consumption its recycled cosmeticsbusiness.com

NEWS IN BRIEF BENEFIT UNVEILS LIPS VIDEO GENERATOR L’ORÉAL is benefiting from a higher digital spend, after VMH-owned cosmetics brand Benefit has The video then presents the final result, with a it set aside 30% of its media launched its Real Full Lips video generator short video showing the lips moving and budget for use on digital Lon its app and website. speaking. Users are brought to a page where they channels in 2016, Forbes The debut coincides with the launch of the can then download or share the finished clip on recently reported. The title colour brand’s new They’re Real! their social media channels using predicts that this figure will Double the Lip product, which #getREALlips. Each video can be be “much higher” in 2017. features eight shades of the liner customised in 15 languages and 17 L’Oréal recently put its and lipstick combo. accents. weight behind five start-ups through its partnership The digital generator is Benefit said it created the Real Full with Founders Factory. interactive and gives users the Lips generator as a way for Meanwhile, it is exploring chance to create a short video consumers to express themselves. the benefits of Snapchat for featuring a moving pair of lips. Lisa Goodfriend, Benefit’s Global Maybelline and WeChat to Users can select one of the eight lip Digital Creative Director, said: target Chinese consumers. colours, then a lip movement. The “Instead of burning bras, today’s Forbes wrote that the generator then asks them to type in woman is showing her fierceness by company is able to a word or phrase of up to 250 embracing bold lips and smoky eyes. customise its message by using the right channel for characters that they want the lips to She feels more empowered to speak every audience segment. say or select one of the pre- her mind.” determined phrases, before The Real Full Lips video choosing a voice from four options. generator is available from These include Leah, Shirley, Ingrid 1 February until 31 May via or Humphrey. benefitcosmetics.com/real-full-lips.

CHARLOTTE TILBURY has partnered with YouCam Makeup to launch a virtual reality make- up feature. Users of the app in the US are able to ‘try on’ the 12 shades of the brand’s Hot Lips lipstick collection on their mobiles or tablets. Alice Chang, CEO of YouCam’s parent company Perfect Corp, said the company was delighted to partner with Tilbury. She said: “The virtual release of [Charlotte Tilbury’s] incredible new lipstick line gives beauty fans across the world the ability to enjoy true-to-life try-ons in the palm of their hand.”

PALMER’S COCOA Meitu app’s hand drawn believe that 2017 will be a big year for mobile BUTTER FORMULA has VR and AR. And millennials will increasingly completed its Winter Cocoa anime effects go viral Tour!, using the hashtag look to lifestyle and beauty brands to leverage #PalmersCocoaTour. The Meitu, the Chinese technology company and app this technology and give them more skin care brand visited creator, has experienced a surge in new users opportunities to try on and experiment with different cities around the outside of its domestic market. products from the comfort of their own phones.” US including New York, The company’s Meitu photogaphy app The app has attracted a celebrity following, Chicago, Philadelphia, witnessed a 480% increase in new users outside with famous faces including comedians James Baltimore, Boston, Cleveland of China, driven by the use of the app’s hand Corden (pictured) and Jimmy Fallon, and and Washington, with drawn effect, which has been used more than actresses Kate Beckinsale and Brie Larson. Minneapolis being its final destination on 13 February. 320 million times since its launch on 11 January. Meitu already has other selfie-based apps Those that met with the After 13 days, the Meitu app had reached the including BeautyPlus and MakeupPlus, which Palmer’s street team top spots on the Apple App Store and Google saw over triple digit user growth in 2016 in Latin received a free sample. Play in more than 30 countries. Frank Fu, SVP America, India, Europe and the US. Meitu has and Managing Director at Meitu, said: “We more than 430 million users outside of China.

FIRST OIL-COMPATIBLE OPINION COLUMN HYDRATED HA UNVEILED Hyaluronic acid is the main macromolecule maintaining our skin’s NEW IMPLANT REGISTRY water content. Due to its very high water solubility, it is complex to add HA – even in dry powder form – into oil-based formulations, IS STEP FORWARD including many make-up applications. PrimalHyal Gold from Givaudan Active Beauty is a new solution The PIP scandal was a wake-up call for the cosmetic produced via biofermentation that allows the incorporation of surgery industry and consumers alike. But is the hydrated HA into oil-based formulas including pressed powders, new Digital Breast Implant Registry action enough? body oils, sun care oils, lipsticks, lip glosses, mascaras, balms and anhydrous formulas. A specific molecular weight HA (<50kDa) is DR GEORGE SAMOURIS IS A PLASTIC SURGEON incorporated into a micro emulsion to create PrimalHyal Gold. AT THE HOSPITAL GROUP IN LONDON AND THE ELITE PLASTIC SURGERY IN GREECE

The NHS Digital case everywhere. “Breast Implant Cosmetic surgery registry was tourism has grown implemented in in recent years due 2016, following the to the accessibility of PIP scandal. It treatments at a lesser quickly became evident cost in countries outside that a system was needed to the UK. However, the end swiftly identify patients price to your health and affected by issues such as wellbeing greatly outweighs implant recall, so that they the money saved. While the could be informed and treated norm in the UK is to deliver a as a matter of urgency when comprehensive consultation needed. The registry gives with a cooling off period and surgeons this exact capability, 24-hour care post-procedure, acting like a ‘track and trace’ abroad cosmetic procedures Naturex adds hair ingredients to NaDES line for patients receiving are often like a conveyer belt, implants, as well as helping with patients in and out far Naturex offers a range of natural active compounds extracted via a the industry identify possible too quickly. Of course this process called Eutectigenesis, whereby the active part of the plant is patterns and complications isn’t true of all surgeons and extracted through the formation of natural deep eutectic solvents relating to specific implants. It clinics, there are many (NaDES). These ingredients demonstrate augmented phytoactive has now become mandatory fantastic services offered profiles and improved performance, and for the first time Naturex for surgeons to inform their abroad – you just need to be is expanding its Eutectys technology to hair care. patients about the registry, thorough with your research First up is a horsetail extract rich in phenolic compounds, which although it is down to the and ensure you are choosing a demonstrates good anti-frizz and radiance properties. Tested on patient whether they consent legitimate expert. There are curly human hair, Horsetail Eutectys BLA reduces frizziness by to their data being submitted. also instances of procedures 458%. Also new is Saffron flower Eutectys BLA; it claims to Personally I encourage all that are not legalised in the increase hair manageability and suppleness, and reduces friction, patients to register and believe UK but are available in making combing easier. the new system is a step alternative countries and this forward for the industry. should ring alarm bells. Lack of a universal There is no doubt the NHS SYMOCIDE C FULFILS DEMAND regulation in cosmetic surgery digital Breast Implant registry FOR ALTERNATIVE PRESERVATION means that the competency of is a step in the right direction SymOcide C, the latest ingredient from Symrise, surgeons and in turn the but at present, it does not has been developed to protect personal care quality of results can fluctuate cover additional implants such products against microbial spoilage, while from country to country. Here as the calf and buttocks. This providing an alternative to traditional in the UK, we have the is a concern as these surgeries preservatives that are falling out of favour with General Medical Council and are deemed higher risk due to consumers. Royal College of Surgeons for problems such as The cosmetic preservative 0-Cymen-5-ol (p- example, which set the displacement. It is my thymol) – trade named SymOcide – is said to standards practitioners must understanding that the NHS preserve many cosmetic products effectively, adhere to. A surgeon’s Digital plans to expand the particularly in combination with organic acids performance is monitored registry to cover other and multifunctional ingredients. It is globally with regular training and cosmetic implants and I hope approved and is said to be especially beneficial in independent appraisals on a to see this come to fruition in oral care applications, thanks to its antimicrobial annual basis, this just isn’t the the near future. properties. ”

NEW PRODUCTS

1 PALL MALL BARBERS has 3 JOHN FRIEDA has created a and organic barbary fig oil to smoothing effect, as well as launched the Tea Tree Shampoo new range of products to nourish and hydrate the skin. DHA, the active ingredient. and Conditioner For Men (£12 increase the natural luminosity Launch: out now Launch: out now each). The shampoo is infused of blonde hair. The Brilliantly with tea tree and eucalyptus oils. Brighter range includes the 5 MINNIES, the new bath and 7 GOSH is focusing on the It is said to be ideal for healing Sheer Blonde Brilliantly Brighter body care collection from The Nordic/Danish beauty of nature irritated scalps with regular use. Ultra Illuminating Shampoo and Only Way Is Essex reality TV stars for its spring/summer 2017 The conditioner is also Conditioner (£6.99 each) and Samantha and Billie Faiers, has launches. Liquid Matte Lips formulated with the soothing and the Blonde Perfecting Treatment launched exclusively in The (£8.99) is available in eight calming properties of tea tree (£9.99). The shampoo and Perfume Shop. The Pretty Fizzy shades and is said to provide a and eucalyptus oils. It is conditioner contain patented Bath Bombs (£4.50) are said to matte look with an intense designed to help relieve itchy technology to penetrate hair “add some fabulous fizz into colour pay-off. The brand has and flaking scalps, while also from within and improve each bathtime”, while the Girly & launched five new eye products hydrating the hair. With regular strand’s reflective capabilities, Gorgeous Body Mist (£14.50) for the season: the use, the brand says it will help to while the weekly five-minute contains the brand’s signature EyeXpression eyeshadow heal the scalp while leaving hair treatment deposits blonde dye scent. Other products include a palette (£8.99), with three matte with a soft and silky finish. molecules onto the hair’s body scrub, bubble bath, dusting eyeshadow shades and a Launch: out now surface to create a colour ‘veil’ powder and hand cream. highlighter; the Giant Pro Kajal around each fibre for a multi- Launch: out now (£7.49), designed for easy and 2 THE WET BRUSH custom care dimensional effect. long lasting application; the detangling hair brush (£11.99) is Launch: out now 6 VITA LIBERATA has unveiled Giant Pro Double Liner (£10.99), designed for different hair types. Ten Minute Tan (£29.95), a new which offers a 2-in-1 application; There are three options available 4 ELEMIS has launched Pro- organic pre-shower tanning the Infinity Eye Liner (£6.99), for fine, medium and thicker Definition Facial Oil (£65) which lotion and hydrating skin which gives up to 14 hours of locks. Each brush features is absorbed into the skin to treatment that develops into a wear; and the Volume Serum IntelliFlex bristles that bend over create a contour definition and natural glow. The tanning actives Mascara (£13.99). There are and around knots to work them lift around the jawline, nose and are absorbed before being also new shades of Lumi Drops out gently without stretching or brow. It contains raspberry plant rinsed off in the shower, so there liquid highlighter (£8.99) and breaking hair. Each variant has stem cell extract to hydrate the is no risk of transfer onto Velvet Touch Lipstick (£7.99). bristles that are positioned skin, Himalayan gentian extract clothes. The tan contains Launch: out now differently to allow the brush to to help lines appear smoother matrixyl 3000 for a plumping and target different hair types. Share these stories on Launch: out now cosmeticsbusiness.com

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NICOLE KIDMAN, the Australian Academy Award-winning actress, is the latest celebrity to become a global ambassador for NEUTROGENA. She will join a team of nine actresses representing the Johnson & Johnson-owned brand, including Jennifer Garner, Kerry Washington and Hayden Panettiere. Kidman, a former Chanel ambassador, said that growing up in Australia she learnt the importance of sun protection, but she realised that the skin needed more support to maintain its health. “So when I had the opportunity to partner with Neutrogena, a brand that has skin health at the core of who they are, it was like the stars were aligning for me,” she said. Kidman’s first commercial for the brand will air during the Oscars on 26 February.

ON THE MOVE AT... TRESEMMÉ

TRESEMMÉ has businesswoman. “Just like Edna, Justine is magic I can create with TRESemmé.” appointed celebrity one of the most influential stylists in the Marjan will begin her partnership with hairstylist and social hair care industry, and commemorates the TRESemmé at New York Fashion Week, media star JUSTINE legacy as a bold female hairstylist paving where she will provide exclusive content MARJAN as Global the way forward.” alongside a team of influential beauty and Hairstylist. Marjan has created hair looks for fashion bloggers including Paola Alberdi, Marjan will lead a new, celebrity clients including Kim Kardashian, Marianna Hewitt and Casey Holmes. all-female team of hairstylists joining the Chrissy Teigen and Kerry Washington. In Her appointment will mark Unilever-owned hair care brand, in a move her new role, she will work with TRESemmé’s 18th season as the official TRESemmé hopes will “take a stance” TRESemmé to provide hair care tips and hair care sponsor of New York Fashion against the male-dominated hair care tricks, as well as exclusive backstage access Week. The brand will round out its team industry and help women feel empowered. to fashion shows and advice on how of hairstylists with Odile Gilbert and Holli Heather Mitchell, Global Head of PR consumers can recreate the looks at home. Smith, who will join Marjan in creating and Digital Engagement for Unilever Hair, She said: “I am thrilled to be partnering hair looks for designers including Carolina said: “Every day, TRESemmé looks for with TRESemmé, a brand created to give Herrera, Jenny Packham, Altuzarra and ways to inspire women around the world. women around the world the confidence Creatures of Comfort. Our inspiration comes from our founder, to put their best look forward. Edna Emme, who nearly 70 years ago was “Now, more than ever, women need to Share these stories on a leading stylist and groundbreaking rally together and I can’t wait to see what cosmeticsbusiness.com

achieve a smooth finish as well as a firm grip while creating the MAGICAL TIE-INS BREATHE look. Meanwhile, Selfridges and Superdrug recently partnered with The Braid Bar, a salon dedicated to the trend, and Unilever NEW LIFE INTO BRAIDS repeatedly focuses on the trend on YouTube channel All Things Hair featuring Zoella. Harvey Nichols and Schwarzkopf have also Fantasy inspired hairstyles are creating novel and unique pushed the braided beauty trend by collaborating with plait opportunities for brands and retailers specialist Keash Braids. As the trend grows, retailers are clearly tapping into the demand nce a schoolgirl staple, hair braids have really upped their by dedicating floor space in-store. However, cosmetic brands are game in recent years, coming a long way from childish still on the sidelines. As festival season approaches, braids will be in O pigtails and basic French plaits. demand and it’s prime opportunity for hair care companies to The resurgence can in part be put down to the rise of celebrities capitalise. The braid trend will allow brands to develop such as the Kardashians posting intriguing modern twists on classic relationships with the youth market and to showcase the benefits of looks on Instagram, as well as the growing popularity of music using their styling products. festivals, where braids provide the perfect compromise between convenience and style. “BRAIDS NEVER GO OUT OF FASHION” But 2016 saw this trend take one step further. Unicorn braids reached their peak at the end of last year, with certain YouTube “Braids are like leopard print – they never go tutorials receiving more than three million views. A wearable out of fashion. I predict this summer braided everyday look, these braids are inspired by the mythical beast and extensions will be huge – last year The Braid include a volumised half-up, half-down single braid that finishes at Bar did them for Cara Delevingne and Suki the crown of the head. Beauty fans are continuing to incorporate Waterhouse at Glastonbury and they seemed the fantasy theme into their routines this year but in a more daring to have gone stratospheric since then. This summer they’ll be even bigger. Hair jewellery seems way, adding pastel hues and glitter to their plaits. Others have even to be having a real moment as well. We put loads of charms and gone as far as to construct ‘hair horns’. rings in the braids, which really elevate the style and make a very Brands are tapping into the overall demand for braids by cool statement – perfect for festivals and parties.” releasing specially-designed products and partnering with hair Sarah Hiscox, Director, The Braid Bar specialists. Redken launched the Braid Aid 03 to help consumers

12 cosmetics business 20 February 2017