62 |WINEENTHUSIAST |BESTOFYEAR2013

CHARLES SCHILLER tasting moments. tasting moments. in thewhiskeyandbrandycategories, therehavebeenmany“Wow!” have—and itcertainlydoesn’t happeneveryyear. Butparticularlywith have easilybeendoublethislength. Forsure,thisisaniceproblemto Producers areembracinginnovation likeneverbefore.Andthiscre list of favorite spirits tasted within the last year could list offavorite spirits tasted within the last year could a challengingtask. hundreds ofbottlingstastedthroughouttheyearwas Because 2013 brought an excess of excellence. A Because 2013broughtanexcessofexcellence.A Why wasitsohardtochoose? hittling thislistdowntoamere50spiritsfromthe A Year ofInnovation andExcellence By KaraNewman - - ments foryouintheyearahead. available inextremelysmallquantities. ed-edition bottlingsareincluded onthelist,weavoidedincludingthose among thosereviewedduringthe past12months.Althoughsomelimit list reflectingabroadrangeofspiritscategories,regionsandprice points considered many other factors as well. We strove to provide adiverse three examplesamongthisyear’s Top 50Spirits. flask whiskeyandacitrusy Tequila fermentedusingwineyeastsareonly ativity iscomingfromallareas—anunusualbarrel-agedgin,a field-to- We hope thislistofmust-tryspiritswillyieldmanymemorable mo While allofthespiritsfeaturedonthislistreceivedhighscores, we WineMag.com - - | 63 TOP 50 SPIRITS 2013

Single Barrel Hancock’s President’s Greenall’s London Dry (England; BOURBON 93 Reserve (USA: Hancock Distilling Co., 93 W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). Frankfort, KY). Full of bold vanilla, dried fruit and Smooth, crisp and well balanced, this is a martini-wor- Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage sweet caramel, this Bourbon pops with spicy cinna- thy gin. Despite the nearly neutral aroma, look for big 97 2002 Edition (USA; Distill- mon, ginger and clove on the finish. Just a splash of juniper, lemon peel and coriander flavors on the pal- ery, Bardstown, KY). Extremely flavorful and rich, water opens up more gorgeous vanilla and oak. Has a ate. Best Buy. with a lush caramel scent and notes of butterscotch, pleasing viscosity and modest alcohol presence. abv: 40% Price: $15 hazelnut, toffee and fig. Savor with an ice cube or two. abv: 44.45% Price: $35 The 2002 edition represents the 17th year of produc- tion for this bottling. Best Buy. PISCO/CACHACA abv: 43.3% Price: $26 CALVADOS Waqar Pisco (Chile; Waqar USA, New Boulard Grand Solage V.S.O.P. Calva- 95 York, NY). The fragrance of this graceful and 92 dos (France; Palm Bay International, delicate artisan pisco resembles a fresh, minty breeze, Boca Raton, FL). Made from as many as 120 differ- with some fruit underneath. On the palate, violet notes ent apple varieties, this burnished amber Calvados has come forward, but never overwhelm, fading into light a richness reminiscent of fine Cognac or . ginger notes on the finish. So lightweight, the flavors The complex layers unfold to deliver vanilla, honey, almost feel like they’re drifting away off the tongue. almond, baked apple and dried apricot. The V.S.O.P. This is one to sip and savor. Snap (USA; Art in the Age, Phil- Four Roses Yellow Label Bourbon blends 4- and 10-year-old Calvados. Delamain Pale & Dry XO (France; Ko- abv: 40% Price: $36 95 adelphia, PA). Like gingerbread in a glass, 94 (USA; Four Roses Distillery, Lawrence- abv: 40% Price: $50 95 brand, New York, NY). Bold and butter- this nut-colored liqueur is laced with warm, appeal- burg, KY). Consider this blended Bourbon for des- scotchy, this easy-drinking Cognac also has dried fruit Avuá Amburana (Brazil; Avuá Imports, ing baking spices, brown sugar and faint hazelnut fla- sert pairings or a fruit-spiked old fashioned. Look for and nutty tones, plus a saline touch that’s reminiscent 94 Manhasset, NY). This luscious cachaça is vors. Consider for a digestif, dessert pairing, or to add caramel and dried-cherry aromas and a flavor akin to COGNAC of salted caramel. There’s a spicy flourish on the rela- aged up to two years in barrels made from a rare Bra- mouthwatering spice and sweetness to drinks. Certi- dark chocolate-covered cherries. The long, mouthwa- tively dry finish. Delamain notes that it is one of the zilian wood called amburana, hence the name. That fied organic by the USDA and Oregon Tilth. Hillrock Solera Aged tering finish is dark and decadent, evoking chocolate, Cognac Prunier XO (France; Freder- only Cognac houses to exclude VS and VSOP expres- aging time yields a pale straw hue and distinct notes abv: 40% Price: $33 96 (USA; Hillrock Estate Distillery, Hudson espresso, Port, leather, nutmeg and clove. Best Buy. 97 ick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY). A sions from its portfolio, “its range starts where others of banana and honey, with a spicy fillip of cayenne and Valley, NY). From master distiller Dave Pickerell, abv: 40% Price: $20 particularly fruit-forward Cognac, look for candied-­ end, with an X.O.” cassia bark doused with brown sugar. this estate-grown, field-to-flask offering makes good orange peel, ripe grapes and stone fruit on the first abv: 40% Price: $119 abv: 40% Price: $45 use of oloroso Sherry barrels. Look for peach and va- Old Forester Signature (USA; Brown- sips, which soon mellow to stewed-fruit flavors on the nilla aromas, bold raisin and brown sugar flavors and a 94 Forman, Louisville, KY). This luxurious caramel-coated­ finish. Savory, mouthwatering rancio Louis Royer XO (France; Lapham Import gentle exit that just hints at Sherry. At nearly 93 proof, Bourbon shows layered and dense flavors that run to notes make for addictive sipping. Made with brandies 94 Company, Miami, FL). With its nut-brown JAPANESE WHISKEY the alcohol makes its presence known, so add some the darker and drier side: cocoa, espresso, clove and aged 20–50 years. hue and brisk, warmly spiced aroma, this Cognac exudes water or vermouth if you must. Attractive and substan- allspice, all wrapped in beautiful caramel and butter- abv: 40% Price: $108 dark toffee, cola, espresso and leather on the palate. Yoichi 15 Year Old (Japan; Anchor Dis- tial squared bottle. scotch aromatics. At 100 proof, the alcohol deserv- Even into the finish, spice, toffee and dried fruit notes 94 tilling, San Francisco, CA). This elegant abv: 46.3% Price: $80 edly feels intense, so best to temper this with a bit of Distillerie du Peyrat XO (France; Heav- intertwine. Sip from a snifter to accompany a favorite single malt from Nikka bears a dark, vibrant gold color, branchwater or ice. Best Buy. 97 enly Spirits, Lakeville, MA). Peyrat is one dessert. with smoke and caramel aromas. On the palate, look Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey abv: 50% Price: $22 of the few producers to focus on certified organic abv: 40% Price: $115 for well-balanced notes of citrus peel, cedar and oak, 95 (USA; The Bulleit Distilling Co, Law- Cognac—this one is certified by France’s Ecocert, and a gentle waft of smoke. An astringent sensation on renceburg, KY). Golden and bright, this straight with USDA certification still in the works. Organic or Leopold Gourmel Bio Attitude Cognac the finish sets the mouth watering, leading to a full- Bourbon whiskey is one of the most versatile not, this is a beauty, rich in Sherry and birch beer-like 93 (France; Epic Wines, Capitola, CA). bodied, almost oily texture. Recommended for sipping around. Though it starts with a sweet flavor pro- notes, dappled with cinnamon and allspice. The dry Golden yellow and bright, this certified biologique neat. file with hints of vanilla and cookie dough, it fin- finish suggests accents of spiced cocoa and leather. Cognac offers a light wash of vanilla, assertive notes of abv: 45% Price: $130 ishes supple and dry, with notes of leather, black abv: 40% Price: $150 raisin, apricot and baking spices, and a creamy mouth- tea and cinnamon. Bracing alcohol levels. Best Buy. feel. abv: 45% Price: $28 Cognac Paul Giraud XO (France; Rob- abv: 42% Price: $70 96 ert Kacher Selections, Washington DC). Signature Craft Bourbon Fin- Like gingerbread in a glass, this topaz-hued and highly Fruitlab Hibiscus Organic Liqueur 95 ished With Rare Spanish Brandy (USA; aromatic brandy offers bold baking spice, orange peel GIN 96 (USA; Greenbar Distillery, Los Angeles, James M. Beam Distilling Co., Frankfort, KY). Henry DuYore’s Straight Bourbon Whis- and floral notes, and an elegant, spicy finish, with fla- CA). With its garnet hue, concentrated raspberry jam- The first rollout in Jim Beam’s premium Signature 93 key (USA; Ransom Spirits, Sheridan, vors of ginger and clove. Downslope Distilling Ould Tom Citrus miness and just the faintest floral suggestion on the fin- Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal Arro- Craft series, this Bourbon is finished with Spanish OR). This Bourbon boasts concentrated caramel aro- abv: 40% Price: $90 94 Flavored Gin (USA; Downslope Distill- ish, this is a delicious way to splash color and fruit into 94 queño (Mexico; Del Maguey, Ranchos brandy and aged in Bourbon barrels. It’s delicious; ma. Flavors run to caramel and honey, touched with ing, Centennial, CO). history buffs will bubbly drinks and other . It’s nicely sweet on de Taos, NM). Del Maguey has built a stellar reputa- dried fruit, vanilla and praline notes are chased by a charred oak and allspice notes. It’s plush and rounded Camus XO Elegance (France; CIL US, want to get their hands on this bottle, stat. Made in the palate, and balanced with just enough tartness to tion with their single-village , and this beauty long finish that winds into ginger and cinnamon. It in feel. The soft-wax cap is frustratingly hard to open, 95 West Palm Beach, FL). This copper-penny­ the lightly sweetened Old Tom style, this golden gin punch it up. is a case in point. Sprightly aromas of pine, rosemary grows richer and fruiter the longer it’s allowed to open but luckily, it’s worth the struggle. colored Cognac is best when allowed time to open, since lends itself to classic Martinez or Tom Collins cock- abv: 20% Price: $29 and sage lead into savory, citrusy and even meaty fla- in the glass. abv: 45.6% Price: $40 it evolves in the glass. The nose offers notes of dried tails. Barrel aged for three months, this soft, buttery vors, with a mouthwatering brininess and a smoky fin- abv: 43% Price: $40 cherries, toffee and oak. The palate is light at first, with gin features honey and pear flavors, sprinkled with ish that’s reminiscent of Islay Scotch. Pair this velvety Maker’s 46 (USA; Maker’s Mark Distill- vanilla and warm caramel deepening to an unusually brown sugar, cinnamon bark and honey notes. It’s even mezcal with seafood or aged cheese. 93 ery, Loretto, KY). Finished in the barrel with fruity finish full of rounded apricot and orange flavors. mellow enough to sip neat. abv: 49% Price: $100 specially seared oak staves, this Bourbon is a new clas- It’s mouthwatering and delicious, perfect for pairing abv: 40% Price: $35 sic. In the glass, it sports a bright maple color, and live- with fruit tarts and pies. Los Amantes Mezcal Joven (Mexico; ly, spicy aromas and flavors of oaky vanilla and tropical abv: 40% Price: $139 94 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, fruit touched with clove, ginger and allspice. FL). Among the best of the joven/silver category, this abv: 47% Price: $35 refreshing mezcal offers bright anise and pine notes,

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2013 WineMag.com | 65 TOP 50 SPIRITS 2013

backed by apple and sweet agave fl avors and delicate worthy bottle is tall, slim and overlaid with gold metal smokiness. Brisk but balanced alcohol levels make this latticework. a top contender for cocktails. abv: 40% Price: $50 abv: 40% Price: $50 RYE RUM Rye (USA; , Homere Clement Rhum Vieux Agricole 95 Frankfort, KY). Versatile, crisp, and an ideal 97 Hors d’Age (Martinique; MHW Ltd., match for cocktails that also include orange liqueur, as Manhasset, NY). This absolutely delicious aged rum well as its namesake classic cocktail. Light aromas in- evokes rich, creamy butterscotch and salted caramel clude vanilla and a touch of juicy citrus. Flavors run to candies. Savor the extremely long fi nish of this sipping bitter orange, dark chocolate and black tea, fi nishing rum, packaged in a striking squared bottle. with a pepper tingle. Velvety feel, despite the brisk al- abv: 44% Price: $100 cohol. Best Buy. abv: 45% Price: $25

Wild Turkey Rye (USA; Campari Amer- 95 ica, San Francisco, SF). Made with a mix of 4- and 5-year-old rye whiskies and aged in barrels with “alligator” char to add more fl avor, this relatively new offering is delicious. Look for a bright, saturated golden color and sweet vanilla and fruit aromas. On the palate, it has a soft texture and rounded feel, and lingering caramel notes pepped up with the bold spici- Kirk and Sweeney 12 Year Dominican ness characteristic of rye. Best Buy. 95 Rum (Dominican Republic; 35 Maple abv: 40.50% Price: $23 Street, Sonoma, CA). Named for a wooden schoo- ner famed for smuggling rum during Prohibition, this Angels Envy (USA; Louis- amber rum has a relatively light feel for a spirit aged 94 ville Distilling Company, Louisville, KY). a full 12 years. Flavors and aromas run to hazelnut, This honey-hued rye has a remarkable aroma, meld- cookie dough, brown sugar and vanilla, pepped up ing cookie dough, hazelnut and marzipan. The same with dark chocolate and espresso. Presented in a ro- luscious fl avors show up on the palate, rich and sweet, tund “onion” bottle modeled after an 18th-century de- leading into a confected fi nish of Nutella sprinkled sign. with nutmeg and cinnamon. The sugar-and-spice ef- abv: 40% Price: $40 fect is due to 18 months fi nishing time in casks that fi rst held Cognac, then Caribbean rum. Rhum J.M V.S.O.P. (Martinique; Do- abv: 50% Price: $80 95 maine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY). Rich and succulent caramel and orange lead into Dickel Rye Whisky (USA; Geo. A. Dickel dry fl avors of chocolate, espresso and clove. This su- 94 & Co., Tullahoma, TN). Despite a mash bill persoft aged rum is fl avorful and well balanced, and of 95% rye and 5% malted barley, this golden-bright, excellent for sipping. small-batch rye is smooth and not as spicy as other rye abv: 43% Price: $60 whiskies. It has a surprising freshness, with bold va- nilla, nut, fresh apple and white-fl ower aromas leaping Neisson 15 Year Old (Martinique; Carib- out of the glass. While charred-oak fl avors hit the pal- 94 bean Spirits Inc., , IL). This no- ate fi rst (it’s matured in charred oak barrels for at least table new offering in the U.S. might be easily mistak- fi ve years), it fi nishes downright buttery, touched with en for fi ne Bourbon. Give it some time in the glass to ginger and maple sweetness. Best Buy. open up and cast off some alcohol in the aroma, then abv: 45% Price: $25 enjoy complex fl avors of toffee, orange peel and dark chocolate. This has a luxe, velvety softness, despite the distinct 90-proof alcohol presence. Mouthwatering. SCOTCH abv: 45% Price: $300/1 L The Dalmore Selected by Daniel Bou- Deep Matured Gold Rum Phraya (Thai- 97 lud Highland Single Malt Scotch Whis- 93 land; International Beverage Holdings ky (Scotland; Whyte & Mackay, Miami, FL). This Limited USA, New York, NY). A rum from Thai- collaboration between Chef Daniel Boulud and Mas- land? That’s correct, made with Thai sugar cane and ter Distiller Richard Paterson is predictably delicious. aged between seven and 12 years in warehouses “sited The bespoke spirit is made from Dalmore whiskies over cool lagoons,” the producer says. The end result is fi nished in casks that previously held Moscatel, Ma- a rich burnished-gold color and a light, enticing aroma deira and Port wine. It’s scented with orange peel and melding citrusy and creamy vanilla notes. The fl avors caramel, has luxuriously rich toffee and dark-chocolate run to cola and crème brûlée, fi nishing smooth with a fl avors and fi nishes with berry notes. This dessert-like generous dose of baking spices notes. The exotic, gift-

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Scotch went on sale at retail stores in October and is also available at Boulud’s restaurants. TEQUILA abv: 44% Price: $200 Partida Elegante Extra Añejo Tequila Glenfi ddich 18 (Scotland; William Grant 95 (Mexico; Partida Tequila, Manhasset, 96 & Sons, New York, NY). Luxe and easy-sip- NY). This super-smooth, limited-edition Tequila is ping. Look for enticing notes of butterscotch, baked aged up to 40 months in American oak. Bright, with a pear, cinnamon and clove on the nose and palate, rich golden color, there is an initial fl urry of black pep- swathed in just the right amount of smokiness. per, sprightly jalapeño and vanilla notes that settle into a abv: 43% Price: $90 warm, mellow crème brûlée groove. Lovely gift-worthy packaging includes a black leather strap tied around the Montgomerie’s Rare Select Island (Scot- neck of the hefty bottle, plus a crystal decanter stopper. 96 land; W.J. Deutsch & Sons-Blue Division, abv: 40% Price: $350 White Plains, NY). This single-cask Scotch was dis- tilled at Tobermory in 1994 and aged for 18 years. Pale straw in color, it offers complex fl avors, yet never los- es its refreshing lightness and delicacy. Light peatiness gives way to delicate tropical-fruit notes, which in turn give way to a long, buttery vanilla fi nish. abv: 46% Price: $72

Glenfarclas 105 Cask Strength (Scot- Luna Nueva Tequila Añejo (Mexico; LCG 95 land; Sazerac Company, , 93 International, Medina, OH). Consider this LA). This Scotch is named for the proof (105) of a limited edition Tequila for a dessert pairing. The light bottle that Chairman John Grant’s father, George S. gold spirit has a sweet vanilla and coconut aroma and Grant, bottled in 1968 as a Christmas gift for family creamy caramel fl avor, with a bit of cayenne pepper siz- and friends. Nut-colored, it has a markedly bold toffee zle on the fi nish. aroma and lots of fl avor and drama. Hazelnut, espresso abv: 40% Price: $45 and cocoa fl avors linger, with hints of allspice and dry- ing oak tannins. Though it needs more than a splash of water to arrive at a nuanced sippability, don’t hold that VODKA against this almost Bourbon-like beauty. abv: 60% Price: $80 Karlsson’s Gold Vodka (Sweden; MHW 94 Ltd., Manhasset, NY). This is a vodka with Sheep Dip Malt Whisky (Scotland; Fred- Paquí Silvera Tequila (Mexico; Tequila character. A distinct counterpoint to ultradistilled vod- 94 erick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY). 94 Holdings, Pasadena, CA). Wine yeast is kas, this potato vodka is distilled only once and left un- The silly name of this delicious, hard-to-put-down used in the fermentation of this blanco Tequila. Hard fi ltered, which accounts for its unique earthiness. Initial blended Scotch supposedly is derived from the days to say if that’s the reason for its lovely and complex fl a- notes have a funkiness reminiscent of truffl es. It fi nishes “when farmers hid their home-made whisky from the vors, spanning lemon and grapefruit, vanilla and zingy with black pepper and ginger, and a buttery mouthfeel. nosey excise offi cers in barrels marked ‘Sheep Dip.’ ” pepper, plus an unexpected mineral-like note, but this A standout for a bloody mary, dirty martini or any other Made with a blend of 16 single malts from the four ma- bright, smooth Tequila is still a beauty. A top pick for savory cocktail. jor whisky regions, this has an intense apple aroma and Paloma cocktails. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $33 fl avor, overlaid with a faint curl of smoke. The earthy abv: 40% Price: $40 smokiness grows on the fi nish, with intriguing dry and Aylesbury Duck Vodka (Canada; The savory notes, like baker’s chocolate and brine. Pair this Vida Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Vida Im- 93 86 Company, New York, NY). Made in with crumbly aged cheeses. Best Buy. 94 ports, Manhasset, NY). This pale gold re- the Western Rockies of Canada, Aylesbury is clean abv: 40% Price: $45 posado will spruce up margaritas and other cocktails. It’s and crisp, with lightly sweet, citrusy characteristics. It sweet, smooth and honeyed, with just the right amount was created by bartenders to blend well in cocktails— Spinnaker 12 Years Old (Scotland; Vi- of jalapeño tingle and a hint of creamy citrus on the exit. mission accomplished. This would be nice simply 94 sion Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). This The packaging is luxe-looking too, white with light blue, chilled and mixed with dry vermouth, too. remarkably fl avorful Speyside is fruity and bright, offer- with an attractive squared bottle inside. abv: 40% Price: $31/1 L ing plentiful notes of orange peel and rounded butter- abv: 40% Price: $55 scotch and a spicy fi nish. Add a splash of water to coax Reyka Small Batch Vodka (Iceland; out still more ginger, black pepper and clove. Best Buy. Gran Dovejo Añejo (Mexico; Mendez 93 William Grant & Sons, New York, NY). abv: 40% Price: $40 93 Imports, Dixon, CA). Inside the attractive Overall, this is a clean and neutral vodka that’s smooth squared bottle, the aromas and fl avors of this highlands and nicely balanced. It’s muscular enough for chilled The ClassicCask Single Cask Produced Tequila tend toward honey, with light touches of tropi- martinis, but is laced with subtle, delicate notes of 94 at Strathmill Distillery Distilled 1992 20 cal fruit, jalapeño and a fl eeting fl oral note on the elon- candied lemon peel and coriander. Distilled from grain Year Old (Scotland; Spirit Imports, Sunrise, FL). gated, rounded fi nish. and “fi ltered through ancient arctic lava rocks.” With its light straw color and mild aromatics, this Scotch abv: 40% Price: $55 abv: 40% Price: $30 surprises with light smokiness on the palate, along with malty, faintly sweet cookie-dough notes interspersed with pear and caramel. For thousands more reviews and to download the pdf of Wine Enthusiast’s Top 50 abv: 46% Price: $170 Spirits list, visit winemag.com/50spirits2013.

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