Simons photograph by Giovanni Giannoni; LVMH Prize by Stéphane Feugère; fragrance by Jenna Greene Collections Fashion. Beauty. Business. DAILY EDITION17JUNE2016 as shown here. For more inspirations, see pages 6to8. Davide Marello played oflight onshadows, with thecasting weekend this starting inMilan.Forcollections Boglioli, drewdesigners onawideswath ofinspirations for the From thecanalsof Venice to Impressionist paintings, Spring Started Milan 2017 Gets Pages 10to 14 coming designers. andup-and- artisanal for itsmixof praises UomoPitti won buyers’ ON A ROLLPITTI LVMH Prize. received thethird annual Grace Wales Bonner WINNING GRACE Page 3 edition to mark 10years after itslaunch. Orchid, introduced and acollector’s in2006 by Black the successofitsfirstscent, by$1 billioninsales 2020, driven partially ● Tom Ford expected is to hit Beauty $1B Ambition Lauder’s Tom Ford: BEAUTY any kindofcommercial footprint inLatin cer ofArden. “Butwe really haven’t had chairmanandchiefexecutiveBeattie, offi- fragrancea fantastic market,” Scott saidE. andwe know America it’s inLatin business Arden. “Revlon hasagood strong color offersdeal pluses for both Revlon and broader globalfootprint.” withmorecategories products anda positioned to compete inallmajor beauty momentum, our company willbebetter Arden,Elizabeth andbuildingonRevlon’s Perelmanlandscape,” said.“Together with Revlon’s path to adapt to achanging competitive player withaglobalstage. prestige player into anew, much stronger thattogetherdeal fuses amassand ArdenElizabeth Inc.inan$870 million Revlon —usinghis beauty Inc.to acquire Ronald Perelman doubling down is on ● Elizabeth Arden To Acquire Its Move Revlon Makes BUSINESS BY BY In anumber ofrespects, theproposed acquisition on animportant is “This competitor. build anew $3billionbeauty value of $870 million, will Elizabeth Arden anenterprise whichThe deal, gives EVAN WITHCONTRIBUTIONSFROM CLARK PETE BORNANDALLISONCOLLINS images for SaintLaurent. Anthony Vaccarello’s first An exclusive lookat BIG HINT Page 15 CONTINUED ONPAGE 21 FOR MORE, SEEPAGE 5 1

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FASHION Echoing other finalists who stood by racks of their designs in the museum’s soaring auditorium, Maxwell said the competition brought invaluable exposure TOP 5 Grace Wales Bonner to all participants. “It’s helped us very, very much. Often- times when you just start out, it’s hard to TRENDING Nabs LVMH Prize get people to look at you,” he said. “I feel ON WWD.COM like the response has just been great.” The atmosphere grew increasingly ● The winner is awarded men’s and women’s collections for Y/Proj- electric as the famous jurors filed in, 300,000 euros, plus a year ect; Christelle Kocher, a French designer embracing each other and falling into who creates her Koché collections for conversation about the judging task ahead of coaching. both genders; Hiromichi Ochiai, based in of them. BY MILES SOCHA Tokyo and designing under the Facetasm “We always get into a heated debate label; Matthew Williams, whose women’s over lunch about what the criteria is for PARIS — Are inflated and noisy street-in- wear carries the Alyx label; Brandon giving this prize. I guess it’s just what fluenced fashions giving way to something Maxwell, who has a signature women’s you like the most in the end,” Jacobs quieter, more introspective? line, and Canadian wunderkind Vejas shrugged. On Thursday, an all-star jury handed Kruszewski, 19, who makes collections for Philo confessed she is often swayed by the third annual LVMH Prize to Lon- women and men under the Vejas label. personality, commending the young tal- don-based designer Grace Wales Bonner, Kruszewski was handed a special jury ents for making their presentations before a maker of calm, soulful — and androgy- prize, which comes with 150,000 euros, the 10-minute buzzer goes off. nous — men’s wear. or $168,260, and one year of coaching. “It’s very intimidating,” she said. “I just “It was quite unanimous. I love her Ghesquière noted he and other jurors enjoy hearing them talk.” vision,” said Nicolas Ghesquière, cre- were dazzled by the youngster’s accom- “I think the most important thing is ative director of women’s collections at plishments — and steely determination. originality. I like the ones that are taking , who shared jury duty with Launched in 2013 and spearheaded a risk. Business? You have all the time to the likes of , , by Delphine Arnault, a key talent scout build it,” mused Tisci. “Today, you need ’s Riccardo Tisci and Céline’s at the luxury group her family controls, to not only sell clothing; you need to sell a Phoebe Philo. “The clothes are really well the international competition is open to dream. You have to forge an identity. It’s made also. Her universe is very strong.” designers under age 40 who have pre- different today for designers than even 10 “I think she has something very inter- sented and sold at least two collections of years ago.” esting to say, and it feels like she has a men’s or women’s ready-to-wear. “It has to be an original standpoint – lot more to say,” added Philo, describing About 1,000 designers threw their and have a business structure behind it,” They Are Wearing: clothes that practically narrate Wales hats into the ring this year, applying for countered Anderson, who designs the J.W. Bonner’s upbringing in southeast London, an honor that has boosted the careers Anderson and labels under the London Collections: raised by a Jamaican father and an English of Thomas Tait and Marta Marques and LVMH umbrella. “It’s a balance between Men Spring mother. “I went to school with girls like Paulo Almeida, the Portuguese duo creativity and business acumen.” Grace. You can see she’s figuring that out behind the Marques’Almeida label — the Asked if he judges the clothes them- ● WWD went off the runways through her fashion.” first two winners of the grand prize — selves or the concept behind them, Lager- and onto the streets and Philo said Wales Bonner, 25, recounted along with Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver, feld retorted: “A good idea poorly done is sidewalks for the best looks from her background and political viewpoints Simon Porte Jacquemus and Nikita and worth nothing.” during her 10-minute presentation. The Tina Sutradhar for Miuniku, recipients But like Philo, he said he battles objec- London Collections: Men. 2014 graduate of Central Saint Martins of special prizes from LVMH, parent of tivity. “My problem is there are people said her work explores representations of fashion houses including , Givenchy, that I like and I’m influenced by that,” ● They Are Wearing: black male sexuality and identity, which Berluti, Loro Piana and Kenzo. he said. she backs up with research spanning criti- Maxwell pointed to a swollen eye- For example, he knows Kocher well Governors Island’s Jazz cal theory, literature and history. lid behind his Céline eyeglasses as an as artistic director of Maison Lemarié, a Age Lawn Party “Her clothes are great. Everyone felt indicator of a high stress level, tinged maker of feathers and flowers owned by that women want to wear that stuff and with excitement. Using frequent-flyer Chanel through its subsidiary Paraffec- ● The Best Street Style it’s men’s wear,” Philo said of prim tailor- points, he flew in his mother, Pam, from tion. “She’s a divine person, very gifted,” Looks From Pitti Uomo 90 ing with an empire flare and silky shirts Longview, Tex., and dressed her in one of he said. and pants, the collars and waistbands his sculptural jackets. “Validation” was a word finalists used ● Fausto Puglisi dabbed with crochet. “She got her first passport. I’m taking repeatedly, lauding the prize for spurring Spring 2017 While her clothes are already carried her to the Eiffel Tower later to take her them on in a competitive field. in stores including Matchesfashion.com, picture in front of it,” he said. “It gives a lot of confirmation,” said ● I’m Isola Marras LN-CC, Joyce, 10 Corso Como and Ssence, Martens, standing by a rack of urban Resort 2017 Wales Bonner operates her business with Grace Wales Bonner basics tinged with Elizabethan grandeur only one other collaborator. that included a pair of jeans so long that She is to receive a grant of 300,000 the pant legs coiled on the floor like euros, or $336,525 at current exchange snakes. He explained the they could be Global Stock Tracker rates, plus a year of coaching from turned up to the hipbone, or scrunched As of close June 16, 2016 executives at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis around the calves. Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury group Participating in the prize can also help ADVANCERS and sponsor of the prize. boost business. “We multiplied the sales Sears Holdings Corp. The petite designer told WWD she by four last season, and we got a lot of +1.67% would use the prize money to “build out exposure in the press,” Kocher smiled. Lululemon Athletica Inc. her team” and use LVMH coaching to “fig- “The vision is really important,” said +1.50% ure out how I can scale the business up.” Delphine Arnault. “The product needs Actress Léa Seydoux, poured into a to be really special, and really stand out Iconix Brand Group Inc. tight black dress with an asymmetric hem, because there’s tough competition. It’s +1.37% handed Wales Bonner a gold star trophy also important how they foresee the Macy’s Inc. during a brief ceremony at the Louis future.” +1.28% Vuitton Foundation, a Frank Gehry-de- The executive stressed most of the par- signed art museum on the leafy fringes of ticipants are hungry for coaching. Inter Parfums Inc. Paris now decked out in colorful panels “The designers always have so many +1.24% courtesy of artist Daniel Buren. questions about how to best produce their Behind Seydoux stood Ghesquière, collections and develop their business,” DECLINERS Philo, Lagerfeld, Tisci and the rest of the she said. “It’s one of the big assets of the jury: Jonathan Anderson, Kenzo creative prize.” Trinity Ltd. directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim; Arnault also handed out 10,000 euro -6.35% Delphine Arnault, second-in-command ($11,145) scholarships to three fashion Matsuya Co. Ltd. at Vuitton; Pierre-Yves Roussel, chair- graduates, who each get a one-year post -5.87% man and chief executive officer of LVMH in the design studio of a fashion house at Fashion Group, and Jean-Paul Claverie, LVMH. Their schools also pocket a like- Ascena Retail Group Inc. an adviser to LVMH chairman Bernard value grant. The winners are: Francesca -4.49% Arnault and LVMH’s head of corporate Ricchiardi from Accademia Costume & Anta Sports Products Ltd. philanthropy. Moda in Rome, Ayo Keys from Parsons -3.63% Wales Bonner beat out seven finalists. The New School of Design in New York Under Armour Inc. They were Tuomas Merikoski, the Finnish and Beth Hall from Westminster Univer- -3.55% designer behind the women’s wear label sity. They will be placed at Fendi, Marc

Bonner photograph by Stéphane Feugère; They Are Wearing by Kuba Dabrowski Kuba by Wearing Are They Feugère; Stéphane by Bonner photograph Aalto; Glenn Martens, the Belgian behind Jacobs and Loewe, respectively.

17 JUNE 2016 5

BEAUTY Tom Ford Beauty: Lauder’s Next Blockbuster ● John Demsey says the designer calling this year an anniversary, the release of Black Orchid a decade ago was a turning is equal parts compelling and point for Ford — and for the entire market. aspirational, and has built a The appeal of the indie and niche diverse audience of both men fragrance market still had yet to reach the mainstream consumer then, both in and women. terms of mind and wallet share. This was BY RACHEL STRUGATZ a time when designer fragrances were flourishing (Narciso Rodriguez For Her and Euphoria both received NEW YORK — Tom Ford Beauty is head- Women’s Prestige Fragrance Foundation ing toward becoming the industry’s next Awards in 2006) and the popularity of billion-dollar brand. celebrity scents was at an all-time high. According to sources, the company’s While people like Frederic Malle and Serge sales volume will hit $500 million by the Lutens were first to blaze a trail with niche fiscal year that ends June 30, a 29 percent fragrances, Ford was arguably the first to increase from 2015’s revenues. If sales con- take artisanal fragrances and grow them tinue on their current trajectory, the Estée on a significant scale. He turned niche into Lauder Cos. Inc.-owned brand is expected mainstream. to hit $1 billion in sales by 2020. The firm is Today, the Signature range contains adding $100 million in volume a year and 10 scents, and has expanded to include by fiscal 2017, Tom Ford Beauty will have Noir and Velvet Orchid. Prices for 50-ml. doubled in size since 2014. Signature scents are $98 for an eau de toi- “We have a glide path to basically lette and $115 for an eau de parfum. Next double this business in a very short time,” month, Orchid Soleil — the latest addition confirmed John Demsey, executive group to the Orchid family — will join the lineup. president of Estée Lauder Cos., during an It’s an ode to the successful Private Blend Makeup from interview in his office at the company’s Soleil Blanc eau de parfum that came out Tom Ford. headquarters here. He is careful not to in March and corresponding Soleil makeup speak on behalf of Ford, who is finishing collection that launched in spring 2014. the overall business, or about $150 million, open this year. Jesel said Asia overall is up his second feature film, “Nocturnal Ani- The white opaque fragrance bottle embla- Tom Ford Beauty is now much more than seeing 85 percent growth. mals,” which is slated for release this fall zoned with the brand’s signature gold Orchids. Two-thirds of sales come from This year, the brand stepped up its dis- (“The only person who can speak for Tom branding became the number-one selling non-Black Orchid related products. tribution to Sephora. The retailer started Ford is Tom Ford,” he said with a laugh). Private Blend launch ever. Tom Ford Beauty defies industry norms with the Signature scents in 2007, and in The executive also declined to disclose or To fete 10 years of Black Orchid, the as it relates to the breakdown of sales March added the Soleil franchise of color confirm sales figures. brand is releasing 10 exclusive products within the business. “When you look at a cosmetics and Soleil Blanc Private Blend in But he first and foremost credits Ford throughout July and August, many of lot of the designer brands, you don’t see 25 doors as well as Sephora’s e-commerce as the reason for the brand’s success. them based on original Orchid ancillaries a business with so much traction in color, sites in the U.S. and Canada. The goal is to The designer is equal parts compelling that Ford created for the original launch. high-end fragrance and the signature increase this to 50 doors. and aspirational, Demsey says, and has A Black Orchid solid perfume, lip color scent. Usually someone overindexes in one “This showed us that the Tom Ford managed to build an audience that’s just as and Nightbloom gold powder as well a thing,” Demsey told WWD. brand could reach a consumer half the much male as it female. Velvet Orchid solid perfume, lip color and “The net-net of it is that we have a age or 15 years younger [than we thought]. “[It’s the] evolution from signature Nightbloom pink powder will hit retailers balanced business between a real luxury We reached new consumers that weren’t fragrance to full Tom Ford beauty house, in July (and go on pre-sale at tomford.com brand and a pillar of men’s and women’s central to the target,” especially with and the way that that evolution is taking June 21). fragrance,” Demsey continued. “You don’t Millennials, which “unlocked a completely place is also a big driver of growth. It’s not In August, Black and Velvet Orchid really see a brand that has a luxury tier like new growth engine,” Jesel said. just singular-category growth, it’s expand- perfume atomizer sets will be released, as this at this price point competing against His hunch is that social media and ing the franchise in existing locations,” will a limited-edition Black Orchid Lalique the artisanal play, which is what the whole digital are the main drivers of sales today, Demsey continued. “It’s different than a Edition that retails for $990 (only 1,000 fragrance industry is moving towards.” coupled with real estate at Sephora. big designer fragrance — [which has] TV were made). Jesel maintained that revenues are He added: “Sephora is where they play, advertising and 30,000 points of sale. It’s Two new campaigns will also hit print evenly split between Signature, Private and makeup was a great way to enter into truly a luxury play in a full beauty play, and online in August: one for Black Orchid, Blend and makeup. This is almost unheard the brand. First of all, the price point is and not in the ‘designer-fragrance-promo- featuring Mica Arganaraz and shot of in an industry where a hero product a little lower. It’s high for lipstick [$52], tional-dynamics’ [way] that defines most of by Nick Knight, and another for Orchid typically carries the weight of sales. but low for a luxury brand, and to enter the world right now.” Soleil with Daphne Groeneveld, the face of He noted that within fragrance, there through a color cosmetic line that’s a 32 That’s all thanks to two words: Black the Soleil makeup collection. is about an even split between Signature sku line isn’t overwhelming. It’s a tight Orchid. Guillaume Jesel, senior vice president and Private Blend fragrances, even though assortment.” It is Ford’s landmark. He began to build and global general manager of Tom Ford the latter has a smaller distribution (one- The next logical category for Tom Ford his beauty empire with the scent, which he Beauty, said the connection between tenth of its Signature counterparts), is Beauty is skin care, where the brand is released in fall 2006 as the anchor of his the makeup line has brought increased significantly more expensive and is not slowly getting its footing. Currently, the Signature fragrance collection. attention to the fragrance. Soleil’s 32 stock- advertised. men’s grooming line is available in 200 In spring 2007, Ford debuted Private keeping units were originally released as a Signature is sold in 7,000 doors, which doors and the small women’s skin-care Blend, a collection of 12 eau de parfums limited collection due to its summery ivory is a little more than a quarter of the esti- range has similar distribution. Jesel said that were all released simultaneously. This and gold packaging that would “come in mated 25,000 worldwide prestige doors. she’s surprised by the success the women’s was a departure from the way he started and come out” of retail. But once Ford sug- Private Blend is carried in 800 doors glob- line is seeing in China, where a $225 face the brand several months earlier, which gested the company transition Soleil into a ally and makeup in just 300. Beauty is also oil is a popular item. was focused on the single product Signa- permanent part of the cosmetics collection sold in all 32 freestanding directly owned Jesel said the expansion of skin care is ture scent (also the industry norm). Ford in spring 2015, the franchise grew 10 times. and operated Tom Ford boutiques. a sector “we need to explore next” — but also upped the price point. Each Private Soleil did $3 million in sales during fiscal Jesel said that North America and carefully. Blend cost about twice the price of Black 2015 and in 2016 will drive $30 million, Europe are tied for the brand’s largest “You don’t want to rush into those Orchid, starting at $220 and going up to according to industry sources. markets, with the two regions each seeing things. It’s different for a fashion brand to $535 for a 250-ml. size. Today, there are 24 “It’s the first cross-category franchise 28 percent growth (and very strong gains create authority in skin care,” Jesel said, Private Blend fragrances. that connects makeup with fragrance,” in Russia specifically). Travel retail is up quickly adding that this doesn’t apply to Tom Ford Beauty introduced lipstick said Jesel. “At the top of the pyramid is 39 percent, with top airports in Beijing, men’s grooming, where items such as a in 2010; a year later, a full range of color the private-blend fragrance...and it has a Shanghai and Korea. $50 beard oil that comes in three of the cosmetics, and in 2013, added men’s cosmetics line in the center.” Tom Ford Beauty is launching in two top-selling Private Blend scents is a best- grooming. While today sales from the Orchid markets a year: China and Korea opened seller. “For men’s, it’s different because

Photograph by Jenna Greene by Photograph While the company is cagey about franchise comprise roughly one-third of in 2015, and New Zealand and Taiwan will men want to look like Tom.” 6 17 JUNE 2016

PEUTEREY LES HOMMES “I liked the idea of a summer wardrobe, “Les Hommes with clothes that are pursue their journey comfortable, light throughout far-off and easy to wear. It all lands and for the started by combining spring/summer 2017 Ettore Sottsass’ season, explore distinct designs with Mayan ceremonial the brand’s signature habits and Spanish style. Nothing is literal, conquistadors’ and this can be said paraphernalia. for both the outerwear The look is as well as the knitwear. tactile, functional, Every piece of the luxurious and collection is unique and modern. A flawless instantly recognizable, proclamation of despite its very casual stylish masculinity and breezy quality.” and toughness.” — Federico Curradi, — Les Hommes creative director creative team

DAMIR DOMA “Never for money, always for love — I feel very idealistic and confident this season. The title says it all. This collection is a new chapter for the brand with the reunion of men’s wear and women’s wear in one show.’’

DESIGNER INSPIRATIONS From Boglioli and Moncler to Peuterey and Trussardi, designers reveal what inspired their collections for the upcoming season. By ALESSANDRA TURRA

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS “Leather, the brand’s DNA, and audacious CHRISTIAN colors prevail. The PELLIZZARI biker jacket in white napa leather, bright “The inspiration red and geranium, is comes from two lit up by a large star opposite places: in silver-laminated Venice, Italy and leather. An erotic/ Venice Beach, exotic print is cleverly Calif. The result used on the total look, is a captivating with a bomber jacket encounter and either long or between brocade short trousers.” fabrics typical — Dirk Bikkembergs of the lagoon creative team city and stylized, colorful prints KITON that bring to mind “Kiton men’s spring 2017 collection is inspired by the colors of the the atmosphere Impressionists and refers to their paintings as a background of the desires of a tropical of today’s consumers of the brand.” neighborhood.” — Antonio De Matteis, chief executive officer 17 JUNE 2016 7

ERMANNO SCERVINO “Double-breasted Caban of marine inspiration in technical crepe fabric. Round- necked light sweater in cashmere. Jogger in technical cotton fabric. Native American shoes style embellished with hand stitching.” — Ermanno Scervino creative team

MP MASSIMO PIOMBO “Baltic green long jacket/dressing gown in old Irish linen.” — Massimo Piombo

TRUSSARDI “Jacket and trousers created in green pinstriped Ferla linen, shirt in satin with green bow and shoes in python leather.” — Trussardi creative team

LETASCA “The spring/summer 2017 Offiicina collection is inspired by the world of motors and racing in general. Letasca continues on its path to research and innovation, using new shapes and new state-of-the-art textiles and blending them together. The creative process started with the observation of race-car drivers and mechanics’ outfits, and these ideas were then re-elaborated to create a fashion concept for every day life.” — Elbio Bonsaglio, Edoardo Giaroli, creative directors

SUNNEI MSGM “The collection’s objective is to tell the ‘Made in Italy’ story “Art, music and design in terms of Italian innovation, and to show a distinct, original come together to create style, not one that is influenced by trends that come and go.” a vortex of eccentricity — Sunnei creative team and creativity.” — Massimo Giorgetti, creative director

NO. 21 “Nineties iconography meets a basic male wardrobe, all worn with a very casual attitude. Forms: the combination of oversize and skinny. Textiles: cotton canvas, jersey light, denim. Colors: orange, deep green, lime, red, sand, touches of silver.” — No. 21 creative team 8 17 JUNE 2016

PAL ZILERI MISSONI “Inspired by Italian abstractionism, Pal Zileri’s 2017 spring/ “This season is truly about flight and capturing summer collection presents a unique color palette, with the essence of a dramatic terrain and the extraordinarily vibrant colors contrasting colder, softer energy of its inhabitants. Guatemala has a rich tones. His vision for men’s fashion is chromatic; with history in textiles and, whether it’s nature or ROSSIGNOL clean cut and linear silhouettes, where the deceivingly the costumes of its people, there are so many “Sport goes fashion. Rossignol’s summer men’s wear combines the brand’s heritage with simple shapes are created by rare materials. A thorough intensely beautiful colors and textures. This the contemporary spirit, infusing the dynamic and versatile design with a sporty soul. The research on silk is evident within the entire collection, men’s collection is really a visual depiction of a lightweight materials are rendered in comfortable and functional shapes such as the maxi and further emphasizes the high level of details and beautiful emotional journey as imagined through parka in craquelè nylon, the loose jersey pants and the cable-knit cotton pull with deep V-neck.” trimmings present within the clothes.” — Mauro Ravizza the eyes of the resplendent quetzal bird.” — Alessandro Locatelli, chief executive officer Krieger, creative director — Missoni creative team

MARCELO BURLON COUNTY OF MILAN “The collection is an ode to noise that ignites unstoppable waves of change. Under the slogan SONIDO, spelled out loud in gothic fonts, a new cultural clash happens within the County of Milan premises.” — Marcelo Burlon

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI MONCLER “Irreverent and unexpected. My new men’s GAMME BLEU collection is designed for an unconventional “Moncler’s Boy man who wants to impress with unique Scouts go camping.” accessories. The shoes are the result of a long — Thom Browne, research process and an expansive look into creative director fine leathers and embellishments.” 17 JUNE 2016 9

SCENE 2 Monday, Tuesday closed Thursday, Friday from 10 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to midnight Tickets: Free 02-66111573 hangarbicocca.org

Milan Hot Spots 4 IWC Schaffhausen After openings in Rome and Venice, ● From exhibits and prime 1 IWC Schaffhausen is unveiling its third networking spots to boutique in Italy. Underlining the impor- tance of the Italian market, the Swiss restaurants, here are a few luxury watch manufacturer, known for its places to check out during the Pilot’s Watches, Portugieser, Portofino, down time between shows. Aquatimer, Da Vinci and Ingenieur, has extended its retail network to Milan’s BY FRANCESCA BONFANTI luxury shopping street, Via Montenapo-

leone. The new unit covers 753 square 1 Clubhouse Brera ► feet over two floors; the offices of Milan is now home to a new clubhouse that the company, which dates back provides a space for networking. Located to 1868, are located on the third floor. The store concept blends in the city’s central artsy Brera district, the 3 venue opened in the former Teatro delle Art Deco and classic modernism Erbe. The private club, designed by Laura elements, such as Macassar Stecich, counts 500 members, working in wood, polished steel, Nero Seta sectors such as marketing, finance, design marble with its unique black tone, and real estate, and who can interact setting and luxurious carpets. up meetings over breakfast, lunch or dinner. Via Montenapoleone, 1, 20121, Milano Open every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. 02-89623901 iwc.com Foro Buonaparte, 22, 20121, Milano Open from Monday to Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., closed weekends 02-9285407 clubhousebrera.com 5 Brilliant! The Futures Of Italian Jewelry 2 Langosteria Cafè Milano La Triennale di Milano is presenting an The Langosteria group has unveiled a new exhibition called “21st Century. Design concept, Langosteria Cafè Milano, near the After Design,’’ that traces the history Duomo cathedral. ‘The decision to open a of Italian design. Within this exhibit, Langosteria in the center was a tribute to “Brilliant! The Futures of Italian Jewelry’’ Milan,’’ said chief executive officer Enrico displays more than 50 Italian jewels made Buonocore. The group also has two other by artisans and young designers that high- restaurants in Milan – Langosteria 10, in light art, design, fashion and new tech- Via Savona, and Langosteria Bistrot, in 4 nologies. It is curated by Alba Cappellieri, Via Bobbio. The kitchen team is led by Höller. Doubt,” dedicated to the work of the director of the Jewelry Vicenza Museum executive chef Domenico Soranno and in German artist, known in the fashion world and chief executive officer of the Women’s keeping with the group’s other restaurants, for having created the slide in Miuccia Pra- Jewelry Association in Italy. “In recent the menu offers salmon tartare with pas- da’s office. Visitors are at the center of the decades, jewelry lost its artistic dignity, sion fruit, seafood plateau, king crab, and exhibition, which offers a multimedia sen- but this exhibition restores its value in the pasta with clams and shellfish. Buonocore sory experience. Curated by Vicente design world,” said Cappellieri. Pieces by also signed a partnership with European Todolí, the exhibit unfolds along Giampiero Bodino, Buccellati, Pomellato butcher shop Damini & Affini to offer a twin, parallel paths, which 5 and Bulgari are on display. “The greatest taste of meat. Examples include roast veal prompt the guest’s participa- strength of Italian jewelry is in cultivating with grape sauce or cordon bleu. tion. For example, visitors old-fashioned materials and skills while walk through a dark room evolving new techniques and technologies. Galleria del Corso, 4, 20123, Milano Tuesday, Saturday from 10 a.m. to midnight, closed Monday Sunday from 10 and are led into an entirely Italians embrace the past with the future,’’ a.m. to 10 p.m. 02-76018167 langosteria.com different space, compris- she added. ing a luna park. La Triennale di Milano Viale Alemagna, 6, 20121 3 Carsten Höller. Doubt Milano April 2 to Sept. 12Tuesday, Sunday from 10:30 a.m. Pirelli Hangar Bicocca Via Chiese, to 8:30 p.m., closed Monday Tickets: 15 euros, or $17 at Pirelli Hangar Bicocca presents “Carsten 2, 20126 Milano April 7 to July 31 current exchange 02-724341 triennale.org

EYE vitrines are the subject of an exhibition set a lot of room for maneuver and I come train to come see the window displays,” he to run in the French city of Poitiers from up with a new idea each season that has noted. “I think that’s quite unique.” Monday to Sept. 18. nothing to do with products or advertising The exhibition at the Chapelle Saint- Exhibition “Le Petit Théâtre de la Démesure” campaigns.” Louis in Poitiers is part of the inaugural (“The Little Theater of Excess”) showcases Platteau brings a sense of spare poetry program of Le Miroir, the city’s new the work of Antoine Platteau, who was to his miniature sets. He’ll go all-white cultural institution, which aims to foster Spotlights appointed director of window decorations one season, then switch to twilight scenes dialogue between art forms. It will feature for the Faubourg store in 2014. He had big featuring archery targets and a croco- replicas of a selection of Platteau’s designs. shoes to fill: His predecessor, Leïla Men- dile leather-clad chainsaw. Starting with Meanwhile, the designer is already work- Hermès chari, held the post for more than three sketches, the designer builds a full-scale ing on next season’s concept. decades. model of the display that allows him to “I feel like I am still discovering the Platteau came armed with a background interact with the space, before it is built in range of possibilities of this showcase, so Window in fashion and movies. feverish bursts of nighttime activity at the I’m still feeling my way around, but the A graduate of Studio Berçot in Paris, flagship. idea is to create a sense of surprise every Platteau began his career as assistant Platteau taps artists such as Nigel Peake, time and not to fall into habits, so you have Designer to designers such as Adeline André and Antoine Carbonne and Philippe Caron to to try new things. For me, each window is Kazuko Yoneda. In 1990, he switched to help him carry out his vision, in addition a fresh test,” he said. ● The work of Antoine Platteau, production design, alternating between to artisans such as feather-maker Marcy or theater and working with French cinema the French luxury label’s in-house teams. who creates displays for the auteurs such as Arnaud Desplechin, Ber- “We feature exceptional products that Paris flagship, will go on show trand Bonello and Rebecca Zlotowski. we order especially for the window — it in Poitiers. He started working with Hermès in could be saddles, hats or bags. The dif- 2000 on set designs for its men’s ready-to- ferent divisions of the house make these BY JOELLE DIDERICH wear shows, gradually expanding his remit items specifically for us,” he revealed. “We to other divisions and special events. In ask them to make products either in colors It’s no exaggeration to say the windows his new role, Platteau has carte blanche to that are not available in-store, or in differ- displays at the Hermès mothership on Rue create four seasonal displays a year across ent materials and iterations.” du Faubourg Saint-Honoré are a work of art. 13 windows. It may not make much sense commer- For starters, they are unique to the “The house gives me no particular cially but then, Platteau sees his window Paris location, making them more of an instructions, except to amuse, please and displays more as narratives. The customers A window display installation than a marketing tool. Cement- delight people, even those who might don’t seem to mind, either. “We sometimes by Antoine Platteau for Hermès.

Hermès photograph by Colombe Clier by photograph Hermès ing their cultural prestige, the elaborate not enter the store,” he said. “We have meet people who have traveled by plane or 10 17 JUNE 2016

KEY STYLES: The country “Tweed C” boot in grained leather and classic tanned oxfords. For spring, the brand, sensing a return to retro-tinged styles, launched the Pitti Praised for Its Aviator 1945 capsule, harkening back to the historic Royal Airforce boots. PRICES: Between $415 and $725. KOI (KINGS OF INDIGO) Artisanal Brand Roster DESIGNER: Tony Tonnaer INSPIRATION: Founded in 2010 in ● Retailers flock to Florence to MX Maxime Simoens Cheaney Amsterdam, the brand specializes in unearth emerging brands from sustainable denim, developing its own fabrics with mills such as Candiani, Collect among the 1,200 exhibitors at or Royo, using mostly recycled materials the fair. or cotton blends, including wool, hemp, linen and Tencel. Innovative washings come BY ALEX BADIA, PAULINA SZMYDKE from laser, ozone and ice blast treatments AND ALESSANDRA TURRA to avoid toxic chemicals wherever possible. FLORENCE — “Just when you feel the show “We focus on timeless design that is also cannot get any busier, that’s exactly what it nonseasonal. This way you can keep it does,” noted Eric Jennings, vice president and longer and wear it all year. That’s per se the men’s fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, definition of sustainability,” Tonnaer said. about the 90th edition of Pitti Uomo. KEY STYLES: The John, a slim-fit, slightly If there were any doubts about Jennings’ state- tapered trouser, preferably worn with a ment, all one had to do was look at the designers dropped crotch. known by their single names who turned up PRICES: From $99 for a simple or black for shows and events around Pitti: Karl, Raf and rinse, which is currently trending, to $449 Gosha. Karl Lagerfeld jetted in for an exhibition for a pair with patches. of his photography, while both Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy showed their spring 2017 BÉTON CIRÉ collections there, as did Visvim. DESIGNER: Amélie Le Roux The bellwether men’s wear fair, which ends INSPIRATION: The designer took cues from its four-day run here Friday, clearly has come a her grandfather in Brittany in northern long way since it launched in February 1972 at France, who wore the region’s traditional the Hotel Villa Medici, with 43 brands in its stable Collections sailor cap but translated the piece into a and a total of 526 buyers, 98 of which came from street-friendly context. Founded in 2013, abroad. the brand is distributed in 15 countries, Today, Pitti exhibits more than 1,200 collec- Pitti Uomo including stores such as Colette in Paris and tions and attracts 20,000-plus buyers from all Dover Street Market in London. over the world. “Basically, if you are not at Pitti, 2017 KEY STYLES: The “Miki” beanie, which you are not in men’s wear,” said Patrik Sonesson, comes in cotton, denim, mesh, linen and distribution manager at Swedish rainwear label even raffia. For spring, Le Roux introduced Stutterheim, which has been coming to the fair fisherman hats with large brims, bell-shaped for 10 years and just opened its first New York items and also caps. store on Mulberry Street. PRICES: Made by hatmakers in France, the “It’s also the first in a string of shows, kick- pieces sell between $84 and $152. ing off the men’s season, which draws a large number of buyers, some of which we haven’t ÒKUN even thought of. We picked up 20 percent last DESIGNER: Bola Marquis year, mostly from specialty stores,” said Jonathan INSPIRATION: Òkun is a men’s swimwear Meizler of artisan jewelry brand Title of Work. He label that offers shorts, manufactured in added: “In terms of orders, we now split 50-50 Mauritius, in colorful African patterns. between Pitti and Paris.” KEY STYLES: For spring, the brand Jennings lauded the fair for its international showcased “Bolgatanga,” a collection that factor and stellar lineup of designers. “I feel like includes items with motifs inspired by the it’s the little United Nations of Fashion here. I handwoven baskets crafted in northern think this is the only show that I come to from the Ghana. Shorts, available in three lengths opening to the closing of the gates. There is great and in three different shapes, are sold with excitement and newness every time.” a traditional fisherman’s pouch. Although some pointed out that Italy’s big PRICES: Wholesale prices range from $40 sartorial players such as Ermenegildo Zegna, to $120. Canali, Isaia and Corneliani have pulled out of the show, Jennings believes this “opened the path to KOI (Kings of Indigo) Béton Ciré BRUNELLO CUCINELLI newness, discovery and emerging talent. I think DESIGNER: Brunello Cucinelli everybody is really energized by the changes.” INSPIRATION: In keeping with the brand’s This season, the Saks team came reinforced first time I came here in 1990. Also, the The no-nonsense line, produced mostly aesthetic combining luxury fabrics and with a full-fledged accessories buyer to stock up events and fashion shows here make sense in Portugal, will be available through the details with a relaxed mood, the brand on a category that is a strong performer at the and they make Pitti more powerful. Look label’s e-shop starting in July. A store will has introduced the “Leisure Set” capsule New York department store, but also to broker who they chose this season: Raf Simons, open in the Marais in Paris in January. collection. deals with new partners for its private label that is who is a culture-oriented designer; KEY STYLES: The street-friendly athletic KEY STYLES: The new offering includes made in Italy and is being upgraded. Visvim, which stands for handcraft, and wear, including sweaters, joggers, suits, crafted from linen, as well as a blend “I’ve always come to Pitti twice in each year Gosha Rubchinskiy, who is into street — bombers and underwear hybrids, comes of linen, cotton and silk that feature a jacket since I’ve been a merchant,” said Tom Kalen- that’s exactly the three stories that matter in custom-developed fabrics, such as and two different pair of pants — one in a derian, executive vice president and general in men’s wear today.” waxed denim and clean graphic patterns. traditional sartorial style and the other in merchandise manager of men’s for Barneys New Among the trends, the buyers PRICES: From $101 for a T-shirt to about a drawstring jogger or a cargo version with York. “Pitti always was and remains the heart of embraced were unisex silhouettes, brands $561 for a bomber. maxi pockets. the men’s fashion industry. It continues to inspire that mixed casual and formal wear such PRICES: Still to be defined. new and young designers to show their ideas to as soft knitted jackets, and an array of CHEANEY the international buyers. My experiences at Pitti offerings with an artisanal aesthetic. Here INSPIRATION: The brand, which has been MANDARINA DUCK for discovering new talent are better today than are some highlights. 100 percent made in Britain at the same DESIGNER: Denis Frison ever. The major brands are well represented in factory for 160 years, masters a hand- INSPIRATION: First introduced in 1977, the their showrooms headquartered in the world’s MX MAXIME SIMOENS burnishing technique that gives its leather brand’s Utility backpack is now revamped capitals; Pitti is important for discovering new DESIGNER: Maxime Simoens footwear a beautiful, translucent quality, and enriched with functional details to meet and artisanal brands that otherwise we may have INSPIRATION: Following his break from rendering each piece unique. With six the needs of contemporary customers. never known.” LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and of its own stores in London, Cambridge KEY STYLES: The new Utility Regeneration “Pitti is really very good at capturing the the end of his namesake women’s wear and Leeds, the heritage brand is looking Project includes five unisex versions zeitgeist,” noted HirofumiKurino, cofounder and label, Maxime Simoens is back with a to expand outside of England. Cheaney of the Utility backpack in a range of creative director of United Arrows. “We find a lot sports culture-inspired line for the “2.0 belonged to Church’s and the Church materials, from canvas and a rubberized of creativity here and young independent labels, generation,” as he called it. He said he family bought it back from the fabric to leather, as well as several color which are very interesting to all of our buyers wanted to see his collections in the streets Group in 2009. Since then, exports have combinations. from the different departments. I think this is instead of on the red carpet, which also tripled and sales have jumped from $5.7 PRICES: The collection retails from $218 probably what has changed the most since the explains the more-moderate price points. million to $14.1 million. to $626. 17 JUNE 2016 11

Pajama Blazers: Striped Polos: Haver Sack McRitchie

Fashion Shirt: Lardini

Summer Anoraks: Matsumoto Trending Now Kimonos: Palmiers The must-haves from the show. Du Mal PHOTOGRAPHS BY SIMONE LEZZI

Linen Sweaters: Foulard Prints: Massimo Alba Herno

Flat Lenses: Dita

Camo Accessories: Furla

Carrot Pant: PT Pantaloni Torino 12 17 JUNE 2016

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1

Òkun Brunello Cucinelli

Lagerfeld Photo Philippe Audibert Exhibition Opens ● Some 200 images shot for ads and editorials share space with the works of the Renaissance period’s greatest masters.

Mandarina Duck BY PAULINA SZMYDKE

Karl Lagerfeld joined the party of men’s more than I could ever have imagined.” fashion greats celebrating Pitti Uomo’s At the top of the palazzo’s grand stair- 90th edition on Thursday. The designer case, a full-body shot of Natalia Vodianova descended on the Palazzo Pitti, one of in an enchanted forest greets visitors, while Florence’s most majestic homes of the further down in the master gallery Cara Renaissance, where an exhibition of his pho- Delevingne is seen sprinting in a pair of tographic oeuvre called “Visions of Fashion” embroidered sneakers for Chanel. But it is under way until Oct. 23. is clearly Lagerfeld’s gang of male muses Sharing space with the works of the that gets pride of place: Cue Brad Kroe- period’s greatest masters, including Titian, nig dressed as a painter, Jake Davies and Rubens and Raphael, are some 200 images Sebastien Jondeau acting out roles from shot by Lagerfeld for ads and editorials Homer’s mythological tales in landscape showing off the designer’s use of various photomontages, and a seminude Baptiste techniques including daguerreotypes, Pola- Giabiconi squirming and twisting in “The Serapian Alvaro roid transfers, platinum and digital prints as Beauty of Violence,” an expressive photo well as the resinotype process. and video series. “Today, photography is part of my life,” Chosen by publisher and longtime SERAPIAN KEY STYLES: Essential silhouettes are at the he explained, adding: “I look at the world Lagerfeld collaborator Gerhard Steidl and INSPIRATION: Milanese luxury leather goods core of the footwear lineup. This includes and at fashion with the eye of a camera. This Eric Pfunder, Chanel’s image director, the company Serapian enlarged its offering of simple gladiators, elevated flip-flops, as enables me to maintain a critical detach- exhibit is part of a collaboration with the men’s accessories, with new styles coming well as slides with a fringed suede upper ment in my everyday work, which helps me Uffizi Gallery. in less rigid silhouettes infused with a more that comes in a color palette of tobacco, contemporary feel. asphalt, peacock and poppy. The lineup KEY STYLES: For spring, the brand launched also features calf and canvas bags with maxi the “Normcore” capsule, which includes a metallic zippers placed diagonally up the briefcase, a backpack and a bag featuring pieces to guarantee full opening. a soft construction. The pieces are crafted PRICES: The footwear retails from $368 to from calf leather and are available in a $1,070, while bags are $245 to $1,895. color palette of black, cobalt blue, gray and military green. PHILIPPE AUDIBERT PRICES: The collection retails from $894. DESIGNER: Philippe Audibert INSPIRATION: Established in Paris 28 years ALVARO ago, the brand offers men’s jewelry inspired DESIGNER: Alvaro Gonzalez by the American West. INSPIRATION: After 20 years spent designing KEY STYLES: Referencing pieces crafted accessories for brands including Valentino, from Native Americans, the collection Jimmy Choo, Valextra, Tod’s and Loewe, includes silver bracelets in soft and rigid among others, Gonzalez launched his styles that are embellished with turquoises own label in 2013. Defined by a clean, cut in graphic designs. Hard cuffs also come sophisticated aesthetic, his collection in the shape of feathers that wrap around includes sandals, belts and bags crafted the wrist. from high-end colored calf, alligator and PRICES: The collection retails from $50 to exotic skins manufactured by skilled $5,000.

Florentine artisans. Giannoni Giovanni by Studio; Runway Proj3ct Exhibition by Dabrowski; Kuba by Lagerfeld Simone Lezzi; by PItti Uomo photographs 17 JUNE 2016 13

Collections Pitti Uomo The Reviews 2017

VISVIM

Given Pitti Uomo’s penchant for all things artisanal, Visvim fit right in. The American-Japanese label designed LUCIO VANOTTI by Hiroki and Kelsi Nakamura staged a spirited show sprinkled with post-war Americana references. Lucio Vanotti demonstrated that sim- Led by a troupe of entertaining swing plicity can be utterly sophisticated. dancers, the lineup’s Forties and Fifties For his debut at Pitti Uomo, Vanotti vibe also came through via printed showcased a chic collection focused T-shirts and boxy midcalf pants. Through- on clean silhouettes that were infused out, the couple juggled American and with a sense of relaxed ease. Collarless Japanese style codes — often juxtaposed blazers were cut in generous shapes in one look — with ease and bravado. Cue and paired with comfortable pants. Slim- a hand-painted kimono jacket layered mer trousers were matched with shirts, over a leather perfecto and loose, belted longer in the back, while knitted sweat- RAF SIMONS pants. Native American motifs gave a ers came in intriguing deconstructed knitted cardigan a playful air, while large designs. cowboy hats and blue jeans blended Inspired by the tones used by Renais- in well with silk kimono-inspired varsity sance painter Masaccio, Vanotti com- For his return to Pitti Uomo, Raf Simons transformed Florence’s Stazione Leopolda into a Nine- jackets. Arty outerwear came in denim bined neutrals with rich tones of light ties-inspired warehouse rave with colored spotlights and electronic music. Distressed old manne- and with full-on leopard prints. blue and terra-cotta, which worked best quins were installed to showcase a range of men’s pieces from the past collections of the label, “We worked with craftsmen from in a fluid striped suit worn under a beige which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. all over the world,” Hiroki Nakamura coat. — A.T. The music from the “King Arthur” opera suddenly introduced the runway show, which paid hom- explained backstage, drawing attention age to Robert Mapplethorpe’s work. to a paper fabric he used for a quirky “I was contacted by the foundation, usually it’s me contacting the artists,” Simons said right after checkered three-piece suit with a fishtail the show. “They wanted to see if these could be transported to another field or medium.” derrière. The designer had access to the photographer’s complete archive and selected images from dif- Despite the retro references, it all ferent periods of his career — including portraits of Patti Smith, self portraits, still lives — which he looked cool and current. About the label’s translated into prints on oversize cotton shirts, apron tops and apron skirts layered over slim pants. trademark recipe, which has brought Everything exuded a New York underground mood, which continued with exaggerated, dis- Visvim a large following despite its luxury tressed knitted sweaters imbued with a certain sensual feel. Pictures of antique statues were jux- price points, Kelsi Nakamura, holding taposed with explicit sexual images that served to enhance the provocative attitude of a collection hands with her husband backstage, not- that, while being celebratory, also reflected Simons’ ultracool aesthetic. ed: “It’s always blended, we are blended.” With all the rumors on Simons’ possible move to New York to take the reins at Calvin Klein, this — Paulina Szmydke collection might be seen as a first step toward the Empire State. — Alessandra Turra 14 17 JUNE 2016

MEN’S and a strong use of color, will translate into men’s wear, the designer highlighted how this will be a “totally different way to cre- ate,” thinking of his own needs as a man. What does he think men need today? Cédric Charlier “Classic clothes with a twist, sporty yet sophisticated,” he said, claiming that men are “very different from before. Of course, they still need suits but these have evolved To Introduce as the use of suits is different. They are more casual and more urban — light, prac- tical and with a comfortable fit.” Charlier is planning 50 looks for fall, with a strong focus on fabrics. He will Men’s Wear also design accessories, but said he is taking the collection one step at a time. “I really want to plant the seed of a ready-to-wear line.” Men’s and women’s wear are “per- In January fectly complementary,” said the designer. Accordingly, he believes “it makes more ● The 50-piece collection will be designer defined his latest moves as “a sense” to show the categories together offered for fall and shown with gesture toward my customers. It’s what starting in January, although he under- makes the most sense to me and what I scored he believed there are “no rules” his women’s line. need. I am taking the time to think out the for designers. Asked if he thought men’s product, fueling my independence wear was suffering at the moment, with BY LUISA ZARGANI of expression.” many brands in transition, Charlier said he Cédric Charlier has been hearing an “I believed in the talent and vision was “not worried. This is a very good and inner voice for a very long time — a voice of Cédric Charlier from the start,” said interesting moment.” that echoes the wishes of his customers Ferretti. “We have been producing his line Ferretti said he believed the men’s wear who have been asking for a men’s collec- for four years now and his work has very line will be “an important challenge” tion. And in January, he’ll answer that much grown and matured. He has built a for Charlier as a designer and as a brand call when he introduces a men’s wear very precise aesthetic that has a loyal, sup- “and also very stimulating for Aeffe,” line that will be shown alongside his porting customer and finally the moment which, after producing the Jean Paul women’s collection. has come to consistently expand his brand Gaultier men’s line for years and having A sketch from the new “This step is in the name of creativity,” with his longtime dream: to create a men’s recently returned to the production of the men’s wear line. said the young designer at the stately Milan collection. It is not difficult to imagine Moschino men’s collection, “is increasingly showroom of Aeffe, the Italian fashion Charlier’s man as a natural extension of specializing in this segment that is surely group that signed a licensing agreement the women’s collection.” very interesting for a manufacturer.” for his women’s line in January 2012 and Charlier was clearly upbeat. “I’m happy, As for the see-now, buy-now discus- will also take on Charlier’s men’s wear. I’m finally realizing my dream. I’ve wanted “I’m finally realizing my sion, Charlier said it was “not part of my “I really trust Aeffe and there is no better to do a men’s collection since the very philosophy.” That said, he will design an person than [executive chairman] Massimo beginning.” dream. I’ve wanted to do exclusive, limited number of pieces that Ferretti to understand my work,” he said. A former Cacharel creative director, a men’s collection since will be available after the show. In an exclusive interview that took place Charlier also previously worked at Céline The designer’s women’s line is carried before he showed his combined women’s under Michael Kors and Jean Paul Knott the very beginning.” by more than 200 multibrand retailers, pre-collection and spring collections in and with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. While including Barneys New York, Dover Street New York earlier this month, the Belgian some of his staples, such as geometric cuts — CÉDRIC CHARLIER Market and Printemps.

THE MARKETS A few years ago, the brand had raised committed to its core price bracket of 500 Mulberry to control both costs and supply its prices in a bid to move upmarket and to 995 pounds, or $780 to $1,410, for bags. chain, and get products to market compete with the big luxury players. In the It said the style and price point of its new more quickly. Mulberry process, it lost its core British customer shoes and ready-to-wear collections have Andretta added the brand has over the base and became a loss-maker. been aligned with bags in order to make past year invested in product design and The company had already moved back the collections more relevant to the development, as well as omnichannel. Swings to into the black in the first half, notching a core customer. Sales in the digital business were up 4.8 percent increase in revenue growth Earlier this year, Mulberry inked a nearly 20 percent last year and Andretta Profit, Bucks and seeing strong demand for its products deal with Onward Luxury Group for the told WWD that omnichannel is the way in the U.K. Profit for the six months to manufacture and co-distribution of shoes forward. The brand is increasingly seeing Sept. 30 was 120,000 pounds, or $185,000. and rtw, starting with the fall season. its stores as supply hubs, where customers Luxury Trend All figures have been converted at Leather goods account for 90 percent of can pick up and return online purchases. average exchange rates for the periods to Mulberry’s sales. He said Mulberry’s omnichannel offer ● The brand will focus which they refer. Another key Mulberry strategy is has extended to France, Germany the increasingly on omnichannel. In a report following the preliminary to shorten the time between showing Netherlands and will launch this summer results announcement Thursday, Barclays collections and making them available to in the U.S. BY SAMANTHA CONTI called the latest figures “notably robust in customers. Andretta added that the evolution of a very tough luxury market,” and “impres- Mulberry began testing the waters ear- omnichannel also means that Mulberry Mulberry’s fortunes are turning: The sive” considering the fact that the part lier this year, delivering the first pieces will be re-evaluating the location, size brand returned to profitability in the of creative director Johnny Coca’s first of its fall collection at the end of March, and nature of its brick-and-mortar stores 2015-16 fiscal year and the brand is buck- collection will only land in stores by the a few weeks after its London show. The and outlets. ing the trend among big European luxury end of June. fall line will be fully delivered by the end One option, he said, is to transform the players, who are seeing their sales and Mulberry joins fellow British brand of August. Mulberry concessions at House of Fraser profits shrink. Jimmy Choo in going against the luxury Chief executive officer Thierry Andretta — which sell only leather goods — into a In the 12 months to March 31, the British grain. said Mulberry’s British manufacturing click-and-collect hub for shoes and rtw. leather accessories brand notched a gain Earlier this week, before its annual gen- base, which produces about 50 percent He also said social media has become a of 2.7 million pounds, or $4.1 million, eral meeting, Choo released a statement of its bags, “has remained a core strength priority for the brand, with 45 million peo- versus a loss of 1.4 million pounds, or $2.3 saying the company had made a good start and point of distinction.” It also allows ple having viewed the February runway million, in the previous year. to the year and that trading was in line show online so far. Revenue was 155.9 million pounds, with expectations. “This means that we really need to or $235.4 million, with retail sales climb- “Despite the headwinds facing the improve time to market because digital ing 8 percent to 118.7 million pounds, or majority of the sector in 2016,” the strat- “We really need to people don’t like to wait for months. This $179.2 million. egy continues to deliver, with growth on is a big issue. We need to continue working The momentum is continuing: Retail track including in Asia, Choo said. improve time to and investing in this,” he said. sales in the first 11 weeks to June 11 were up Fast-changing tourist patterns from Barclays added that the results look 9 percent overall, and 4 percent on a like- currency fluctuations and terrorist attacks market because digital on track, with management confidence for-like basis. in Europe have left luxury companies people don’t like to highlighted by a 5 pence, or 7 cents Mulberry shares remained flat during counting their losses and, in the case of dividend. The bank also pointed out that the day at 10.25 pounds, or $14.51. Burberry, crafting austerity plans to cope wait for months.” Mulberry’s balance sheet remains strong, Mulberry is emerging from its own dark with the hard times. with 14 million pounds, or $20 million in age when profit warnings proliferated. Mulberry added Thursday it remains — THIERRY ANDRETTA, MULBERRY net cash. 17 JUNE 2016 15

MEMO PAD ● The campaign features portraits of individuals and couples; a black-and-white portraits hint of the future of the house. Fifteen new faces, shot in Paris,” according to by Collier Schorr. YSL. Sharing two images exclusively with Anthony Vaccarello BY MILES SOCHA WWD, Vaccarello plans to unveil more content on YSL’s web site and Shares First Giving the first clues about where he Instagram account on June 20, with might take Saint Laurent, new placements in magazines starting two creative director Anthony Vaccarello days later. has tapped American artist and fashion Vaccarello is to make his runway Saint Laurent photographer Collier Schorr to lens a debut for Saint Laurent during Paris new image campaign — minus any new Fashion Week in October. The 36-year- designs. old Belgian joined the storied French Images There are glimpses of clothes: a house last April, succeeding Hedi Sli- smidgen of T-shirt here, a bit of bra mane, who had renamed the house Saint there. But the focus is “black-and-white Laurent and lensed all campaigns.

BUSINESS A Gap spokeswoman declined to FASHION Stella comment on the speculation. McCartney Anxiety has grown — in part because the retailer buys from niche brands Stella Gap Seen that need nearly every order and are especially vulnerable to shifts in the retail landscape. McCartney Standing Wassner is also chairman of InterLuxe, which controls A.L.C., and has a personal stake in Cushnie et Confirms By Intermix Ochs, both of which are on Intermix’s roster of brands. Intermix also sells Men’s Wear Bailey 44, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, Elizabeth and James, ● The seasonless collection will Chain Frame IRO, Joie, Timo Weiland and many other names. be sold in Paris and show in ● The company is said to have “They buy a lot of small vendors, and London in November. dispelled rumors that the it would make a huge difference if they were shut down the way Scoop [was BY SAMANTHA CONTI women’s wear business is on closed],” Wassner said. the block. In May, the 16-door Scoop started to wind down its business LONDON — Stella McCartney will BY EVAN CLARK after 20 years, hit by big rent launch her first men’s wear line later payments and stores that were this year, confirming a report in WWD considered too large. The on Feb. 16. company, owned by Ron Burkle’s The designer’s company said Intermix is still in the mix. Yucaipa Cos., was said to have hired a Thursday the new collection will take Despite rumors that the 41-door banker to sell the business and garnered a “modern approach” to men’s wear, Gap-Inc.-owned women’s wear chain some interest, but ultimately came up encouraging “seasonless wardrobing,” was set to be sold, or even short. while adhering to the brand’s ethic of closed, the company has been Art Peck, chief executive officer of sustainability. The company is plan- reassuring financial players that the talk Gap Inc., spearheaded the ning a version of the see-now-buy-now wear, and early December for is just talk. $130 million Intermix acquisition approach, with buyers invited to place men’s wear. Gary Wassner, chief executive when he was president of the retailer’s orders this month, a fashion show in The new men’s collection will be sold officer of Hilldun, which helps Growth, Innovation & Digital November and delivery in December. to retailers in Paris later this month finance the orders of many Intermix division. The range will include fur-free and from the newly relocated Stella McCart- suppliers, said all is well with the When asked about the size and leather-free apparel and accessories ney Paris showroom in Saint-Germain- business. A source close to the company performance of Intermix on a and will be sold at select Stella McCa- des-Prés. The women’s collection will confirmed this account. conference call with analysts last rtney boutiques, online on the brand’s show, as usual, during Paris fashion “They’re paying us incredibly well,” month, Sabrina Simmons, chief financial web site, as well as at wholesale week on Oct. 3. Wassner said. “There’s nothing past officer and executive vice president of accounts worldwide. It’s set to be a busy few months due on the account. We’re approving Gap, said: “We haven’t grown the fleet McCartney will reveal the first collec- for McCartney: The designer’s latest every single order that comes in, and very much since we purchased it…. tion at a special fashion presentation fragrance POP will launch in July, as in my conversations with senior people It’s been trying to tighten up and learn in London on Nov. 10, alongside her will her first swim collection. In August, there, they’ve assured them that they about the business model there, so women’s spring 2017 line. the designer’s creations with Adidas for are fully committed to growing it in both there hasn’t been much growth there.” The event is meant to mark the Team GB will make their debut at the channels, brick-and-mortar and e-com, For now, Intermix remains a rounding upcoming arrival of the collections in Summer Olympic Games in Rio

McCartney photograph by Adam Duke Adam by photograph McCartney and that the rumors are just noise.” error in Gap’s $15.8 billion top line. stores in early November for women’s de Janeiro. 16 17 JUNE 2016

Elie Tahari Resort Now

Carolina Herrera There’s a lot of heritage on the brain at Carolina Herrera, which is marking its 35th anniversary this year. Three-plus Elie Tahari decades into her career, Herrera’s recent collections have been noticeably refreshed — resort included. Without This season, Elie Tahari weaved embellishments and mixed textures throughout his collection with a liberal hand. It neglecting the uptown, adult tone her core clients crave, she infused the lineup with polished playfulness and a sense lent each look a sense of occasion, with plenty of party-ready pieces, from a leopard-printed metallic blue jacquard of youth. The attitude was obvious in the clothes — a navy-and-white striped wide-leg jumpsuit with a cutout bow-tie blazer to a flirty LBD decked out with a transparent mesh bodice, floral appliqués and an ostrich feathered skirt. A fun, bodice; chic denim; a bustier top and sequined shorts combo — as well as in the resort shoot done with 16-year-old feminine mood prevailed — underscored by flirty fringed hems and sheer lace embroidery that revealed hints of skin actress Kiernan Shipka (of “Mad Men”), which broke on Snapchat platform Sweet. Shipka is the rare teen who has on several of Tahari’s tops, which he paired with straight skirts or fit-and-flare minis in printed lace or laser-cut leather. occasion to wear the collection’s frothy tulle gowns — a black style with white dot embroidery, and a pink dress dusted Outerwear highlights included a couple of styles in velvet: a patterned, fringed bomber jacket and a dégradé miniature stars — but she embodied the fresh spirit Herrera is clearly hoping to introduce to a new generation of chic leopard-printed coat. — KRISTI GARCED women. — JESSICA IREDALE 17 JUNE 2016 17 Resort Now Natasha Zinko

Charles Youssef Rebecca Taylor

Natasha Zinko Natasha Zinko waxed nostalgic for resort, using Eighties cultural references to create a provocatively feminine lineup. She paid homage to period muses such as Madonna and Cindy Crawford: A sexy corset dress was done up in denim — à la the Material Girl — featuring a bustier-style bodice with pearls adorned on the straps. Pearls were also affixed on white leather lace up sneakers and slippers and on a black leather biker hat, as an ode to Crawford. Known for her offbeat yet methodical tailoring style, the London-based Ukranian designer used lace or knitted detailing on crisp poplin shirts and flowy cotton dresses, several in plaid. There were ruffles a-plenty on tiered dresses. Silhouettes were big and voluminous, as demonstrated by an oversize decon- structed denim jacket that topped a full tulle skirt, and a strap- less, floor-length corset gown made of a men’s shirt fabric with a pink tulle underskirt. — LORELEI MARFIL

Zimmermann

Zimmermann Resort has long since been a season about vacation wear, but for Zimmermann, a brand with occasion dressing and fanciful swim at its core, drawing on fabulous vacation homes of yore — the Kaufmann House in Palm Springs, Calif., for one — makes complete sense. “We looked at beautiful pictures of women in the Fifties at gorgeous resorts,” said Nicky Zimmermann. “I loved Rebecca Taylor how polished and elegant they were on holiday.” This season, Rebecca Taylor continued her signature feminine, “what a girl From there, she churned out a lovely collection of soft, wants” approach. “I feel like fashion and life are moving so quickly now that I undeniably feminine vacation-ready pieces. Nothing was really try to have consistency and continuity in the collection, rather than starting basic, though the lineup was split between the easy — striped Charles Youssef something different every time,” Taylor explained. wide-leg pants and tunics; filmy tiered beach skirts and a crisp Artist Esther Stocker’s monochromatic installations, which fill rooms with an- But it’s also about timing, she noted. Now, her customers are looking more for off-the-shoulder poplin blouse — and the thoughtfully novel. gular and linear shapes, informed Charles Youssef’s resort collection. Geometry party dresses during November, rather than the traditional resortwear. So, she In that bracket, there was much to make a girl stand out at an has been a key part of Youssef’s vocabulary, too, throughout his five seasons of offered memorable mid-length dresses, from updated LBDs to a mixed lace and event, such as playful bralettes and shorts in tropical printed designing. This time, “because it’s resort, we wanted to be understated, make it satin, pale pink number. For December, which seems to be the new “takeaway” silk viscose twill; a golden bias-cut slip jumpsuit; a white cotton easy to wear,” he said. “The sort of clothes I thought women would like to wear.” month, Taylor had a feast with beautiful floral denim jackets, vintage-inspired little organdy shirt dress with circular lace inserts; and sturdy tech- These included powder-blue cotton poplin pieces with linear details and tops, ruffled off the shoulder taffeta tops and dresses, pink jumpsuits, cutout nical swimsuits with floral embroidery inspired by retro bathing sharp, origami-like strategic folds — another consistent Youssef inspiration. But ribbed knits and patchwork denim jeans. The big news in the lineup: girly printed, caps. Zimmermann’s fabric choices were impeccable, all gentle he brought new elements into the lineup such as mesh inserts and cutout details puff-sleeved sweaters with a drop shoulder. “I am feeling a broader silhouette,” but sturdy with great movement, and she was smart about her on dresses. “It’s sporty but still elegant — after-six, cocktail-party appropriate,” the designer said. construction, using her swimwear know-how on the built-in bra/ Youssef added. Our favorite: a black mid-length trumpet dress with a mesh hem “It’s all about giving [the client] more options in the things she loves,” Taylor corset construction of a halter dress, and lining sheer printed

Zimmermann photograph by Thomas Iannaccone by Zimmermann photograph that, according to the designer, has a “flawless fit.” — MAYTE ALLENDE feels. Mission accomplished. — M.A. pieces with matching printed slips. — JESSICA IREDALE Men’s Fashion Week An Advertising Opportunity

NYFW: Men’s Preview NYFW: Men’s Recap ISSUE: June 29 ISSUE: July 20 CLOSE: June 17 CLOSE: July 6 MATERIALS: June 20 MATERIALS: July 11

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 17 JUNE 2016 19

THE MARKETS and strategic investments,” he said. But Chirico said it’s not all about the bottom line, pointing to PVH’s initiatives in Chirico Gives Overview of PVH’s human rights, sustainability and staff training and development. After the meeting, Chirico told WWD that the Calvin Klein Jeans business internationally Business, but Silent on Simons is very strong, and the company is seeing very positive results on the denim side in Europe, “which has been a total turnaround.” He ● There was no mention by business model continues to work very said Asia and Brazil, which have always been the executive of Raf Simons, efficiently. We’re dealing with the impact of strong markets for the jeans business, contin- the strengthening dollar across the world, ues to do well. “The U.S. jeans business has widely rumored to be joining which will hopefully be behind us as we turn turned from a loss business to a marginally Calvin Klein in a top creative into the fourth quarter of this year and the profitable business for us,” he said. role in August. first quarter of next year” where the compa- “In general, the ath-leisure trends over the ny’s reported earnings will really match the last four years have had the biggest impact on BY LISA LOCKWOOD performance they’re seeing in the business, the category overall and for Calvin Klein, it he said. does close to $200 million on a retail basis in Since the acquisition of Warnaco in 2012, its performance line, which is manufactured In a brief, 16-minute meeting Thursday at PVH has paid down more than $1.1 billion and licensed to G-III. The Graduate Center of City University of in debt. “Our businesses, by their inherent Turning to second-half business, he said, New York, Emanuel Chirico, chairman and nature, are very cash flow positive. This year “We’re optimistic about how we’re setting chief executive officer of PVH Corp., shared we expect to pay down an additional $350 up. If most of the retailers are projecting that highlights of the past year, driven by the com- million of long-term debt, while returning business will turn marginally positive on a pany’s two powerhouse brands, Calvin Klein capital to our shareholders,” said Chirico. He year-over-year basis, we haven’t gone that and Tommy Hilfiger. There was no mention said that’s in addition to making appropriate far. If there’s an opportunity for us, and any of Raf Simons, who is widely rumored to be investments in the business, including the chance of a reasonable winter from a weather joining Calvin Klein in a top creative role in acquisition of Hilfiger’s China business. point of view, I really think we can out-per- August, and no questions from shareholders. He’s looking for revenue growth in the Cal- form guidance based on the trend of the Following the meeting, WWD spoke to vin Klein business on a long-term basis “in the business today, driven by our international Chirico about the Simons rumors and asked mid-to-high single digits.” “We’re exceeding business,” he said. Emanuel when he would be coming on board. Chirico that on a constant currency basis. We believe Chirico added, “The Calvin business in Chirico declined to confirm Simons’ appointment, our operating margins will grow above the 15 Asia continues to be a stellar performer for us but said: “We would hope that a decision he said. Last year PVH generated $842 million percent threshold,” he said. driven by the China business.” will be made in the near future and as events in earnings before interest and taxes, and As far as the Hilfiger business, he sees sim- He said the tourist areas in the U.S. con- unfold, we’ll be sure everyone’s brought up achieved earnings per share of $7.05, which ilar growth driven by international business tinue to be impacted “pretty severely,” and it to speed.” includes the impact of foreign currency trans- in Asia, Latin America, as well as its business impacts PVH’s direct to consumer business in Asked how that position might operate, he lation and impact. in Europe “which continues to perform so the U.S., especially outlets. “We’re seeing it in said, “The plan would be that there would be He said the Calvin Klein business is less well.” Operating margins there have averaged our Fifth Avenue store and our Madison Ave- one creative visionary for the brand, similar than $3 billion in revenues and the Hilfiger 12 percent. “We’ve really seen the transac- nue store, and locations in Orlando, Miami, to when Calvin ran the business directly.” He business had overall retail sales of less than $7 tional impact on the strengthening dollar in Las Vegas, Los Angeles and San Francisco,” said Kevin Carrigan, global creative director billion (and internal reported revenues of less 2015. We believe over the next three years he said. of CK Calvin Klein, Calvin Jeans and Calvin than $3.5 billion). PVH’s Heritage business is we can claw back the operating margins in Chirico said the Hilfiger business interna- Klein white label will report into the new around $1.7 billion. the Tommy Hilfiger business to approach 14 tionally is very strong and European comps creative head. For spring 2017, the designer The company looks to expand globally in percent as we move forward,” he said. are running ahead in the high single digits. collection is being designed by a team under the two regions where it has seen the most The company’s Heritage business, which it “The order book in Europe is up 6 percent for Calvin Klein Collection president Michelle dramatic growth — Asia and Latin America, has been restructuring and paring back to run fall,” he said. PVH is looking forward to the Kessler-Sanders. “­where the brands have strength and where more efficiently, is operating just under 7.5 Gigi Hadid collaboration with Hilfiger for fall. Before he spoke about the company’s busi- profitability is the highest,” the ceo said. percent in operating margins and is targeted “This is strategically critical for us because we ness, Chirico shared how deeply sad he was The company bought back a number of its to be above 7.5 percent this year. “We think view women’s as a significant growth oppor- about the terrible events in Orlando, Fla., and licensed businesses and assumed direct of the our long-term goal is to bring that business tunity for us in Tommy, and I believe having offered a moment of silence. The company Tommy Hilfiger China business, effective as of back to overall 10 percent operating margin Gigi as our ambassador in women’s and doing lost its Calvin Klein store manager in Orlando, April. There are opportunities to bring other business,” Chirico said. a capsule collection with her and a number Frank Hernandez, a six-year veteran of the businesses in-house and expand and integrate He sees midsingle-digit growth in Hilfiger’s of marketing issues will just help propel us firm, who was killed at the Pulse nightclub. them into PVH, he said. top line in an organic growth rate, excluding and get momentum behind us as we go into “Our thoughts and prayers are with our asso- “We’ve had a long history of solid sales and acquisitions. spring ’17 and fall ’17,” he said. ciates in the area and all those who affected earnings growth over a 13-year period,” said “We see our operating margins growing He also said with the re-launch of the by this horrible tragedy,” said Chirico. Chirico. Last year, the company was impacted over the next three years by 100 to 150 basis Hilfiger women’s business with G-III, he Turning to business results, Chirico gave by foreign currency and he believes that this points to 12 percent,” he said. “ We think our expects women’s, which does $100 million to a quick review. As one of the largest apparel year it will be “severely impacted” by foreign organic businesses continue to grow to meet $125 million in wholesale volume at PVH, to companies in the world with more than $8 currencies. the demands of the market, while there are become a $1 billion business at G-III. “Calvin billion in revenues, PVH is driven by its two “The fundamentals of the business opportunities to use our strong cash flow to is just about a $1 billion business [at G-III] in key brands, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, continue to be very strong. The underlying enhance that through strategic acquisitions wholesale sales,” said Chirico.

RETAIL 5,000 New York City-area employees, blew holidays such as Christmas and Thanksgiving. Department Store Union, UFCW. “It raises the past Wednesday’s midnight deadline and “Macy’s wanted to make Thanksgiving and bar for what retail jobs can be and should be. Macy’s, Labor negotiated through the early-morning hours Christmas mandatory but lost that battle in We had the support of many leaders and allies to reach a tentative contract agreement and negotiations,” said the source. in our effort to secure a fair contract for these avert a strike. Employees were also seeking protection of brave and dedicated workers. This contract Union Reach The contract covers workers at Macy’s Her- retirement benefits. There was no word on shows that Macy’s workers are the real magic ald Square flagship and stores in the Bronx, whether the issue was addressed. of the company. It’s a major step forward for Queens and White Plains, N.Y. “This contract is a major victory for Macy’s the entire retail industry.” Agreement “We are pleased with the outcome of our workers and for New York City,” said Stuart Employees of Local 1S had been without overnight negotiations and happy to report Appelbaum, president of the Retail Wholesale an employment contract since May 1 when ● Averting a strike, the retailer that a tentative agreement between Macy’s the three-year contract expired. Bargaining made a deal with the union and Local 1S for our workers has been The new Macy’s contract continues as part of a 45-day extension period reached, therefore averting a possible strike covers workers in stores with June 15 at midnight as the new deadline. throughout New York. representing 5,000 of its today,” a Macy’s spokeswoman said. Local 1S said there would be a strike if employees in the New York A source close to the union called the wage the contract wasn’t resolved by the June 15 City area. increase in the new contract “substantial.” deadline. Health-care benefits, a major sticking point, Macy’s took the strike threat seriously, tak- BY SHARON EDELSON were resolved. The source said the new con- ing ads in local newspapers seeking tempo- tract features a better plan with much lower rary workers. The last time Macy’s employees and more affordable deductibles for workers. held a strike was 1973. The threatened strike against Macy’s is off The union said the cost of health benefits for a “A deal has been reached for a new con- the table. single person is $75. tract for 5,000 unionized Macy’s workers in Macy’s and the Retail Wholesale and A concession on the part of Macy’s is the New York area,” a spokesman for Local

Chirico photograph by George Chinsee; Macy’s by Jonathan Hordle/REX/Shutterstock by Chinsee; Macy’s George by Chirico photograph Department Store Union, representing no longer requiring employees to work on 1S said. CEOSUMMIT

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and will expand on Revlon’s strength in mass both of our companies.” Products from Revlon Makes Its color cosmetics and hair care by layering A larger Revlon would also have more heft Elizabeth Arden. Move To Acquire in Arden’s prestige expertise in licensed and leverage while it negotiates with retailers, fragrances and its namesake skin care, color vendors and producers. Elizabeth Arden cosmetics and fragrance offerings. Geograph- To grab this opportunity, Revlon will pay ically, Revlon already sells in 130 countries, $14 a share in cash for Arden, a 50 percent CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 but Arden brings with it presence in growth premium over the company’s $9.31 closing areas, especially the Asia-Pacific region. price Thursday. Including the repayment Garcia told Wall Street on a conference of debt and preferred stock, the deal gives America and I think by having that scale and call that the combination would provide Arden an enterprise value of $870 million. footprint it will open up a lot of opportunities Revlon with “an excellent platform for future The company expects to realize cost syner- for fragrance.” growth.” gies of about $140 million by “the elimination Fabian Garcia, president and ceo of Revlon, “We will now be in the top 20 beauty of duplicative activities, leveraging purchasing added, “As we look at the synergies that we companies in the world,” Garcia said, noting scale, and optimizing the manufacturing have, there are countries where we are both the deal would build Revlon up to $3 billion and distribution networks of the combined strong: the U.S., the U.K. and South Africa. in annual sales and $560 million in annual company.” Revlon said those cost savings Then you have a bucket of countries where adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, would be fully realized in a three-to-five year Elizabeth Arden is strong and we are not as depreciation and amortization. time frame. strong: South Korea and China. Then you Garcia said the deal was “timed to take Perelman, who has flirted with acquisi- have another bucket of countries where we advantage of favorable industry dynamics” tions and taking the company private over are strong and they are not as strong: Japan.” and described beauty as “an attractive indus- the years, tapped BofA Merrill Lynch and Beattie added that “It gives us many more try that has grown consistently over the past Citigroup Global Markets Inc. for $2.6 billion levers for growth. We’ve also been struggling five years.” in financing to fund the deal and refinance to improve our profitability over the past two “The combined company will be strongly Arden’s debt and Revlon’s bank term loan years and the refinancing of the balance sheet presence in Latin America, and pointed positioned to distribute our brands in all key and revolving credit facility. of the combined business puts us in a really out that it would be a ripe market for his channels where beauty customers shop,” he Revlon projected it would have pro forma strong position.” fragrances. Garcia singled Brazil in particular. said. That includes a presence in mass and leverage of about 4.2-times its net debt/ The pluses and minuses add up to a “It’s a very large bucket we are interested in.” prestige doors, travel and specialty retailers, adjusted EBITDA by the end 2016 and the strengthened whole in the view of the execu- The deal came like a thunder clap as the department stores and salons. About 57 ability to pay down that debt with “antici- tives. “Now we are a real player in fragrance,” market closed. It came as no small sur- percent of the business will come from North pated strong cash flow.” Garcia said during an interview with WWD. prise, considering that many in market had America. Revlon’s always been about more than As an example of the possibilities, “Charlie assumed that Perelman was considering “This combination positions us for a very money for its owner, though. has a great opportunity to come back,” he selling his majority stake in Revlon. In Janu- bright future,” Beattie said on the call. He Perelman told WWD in 2012 that the com- said, referring to the landmark, Revlon, ary, a filing with the Securities and Exchange will join Revlon’s board as non-executive vice pany was “ready to grow through acquisition” that came to symbolize women’s liberation. Commission revealed that his investment chairman and senior adviser to Garcia. Arden and said that, “at different times, you think “Back in 2015, we made an acquisition of company, MacAndrews & Forbes Inc., said shares closed at $9.31 on Thursday, but sky- about different things.” [CBBeauty], the creative beauty group in the it was exploring strategic alternatives. That rocketed more than 48 percent in after-hours He acknowledged a personal connection U.K., and what we bought was capability in essentially put up the “for sale” sign. trading, to $13.81. Revlon’s shares closed at with the company, which he took control of fragrance. We were signaling intent that we Looking at those alternatives, the New York $31.15, rising slightly in after-hours trading to in a 1985. had always had to recover the great heritage financier saw a landscape in flux, with Coty $31.30. “I’ve got a bunch of girls who have interest this company had in fragrance and now we Inc. working on its own $12.5 billion deal to “Although it’s the end of a chapter for us in the company,” he said. “I love the com- have a leading business in fragrance around buy 43 brands from the struggling Procter as an independent company, it opens a new pany, but I love all of our companies. If I don’t the world.” Arden has a top battery of celeb- & Gamble, The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and door and a new opportunity for us,” Beattie love them, we don’t do well in them because rity fragrances by Britney Spears, Elizabeth L’Oréal snapping up indie brands, scores of said. “We are confident we found the perfect there’s something about it that I’m not happy Taylor, Justin Bieber, Mariah Carey, Nicki smaller brands looking for partners and room home for the Elizabeth Arden brand. Revlon with or that’s gnawing at me or something Minaj and Taylor Swift, as well as scents by for a larger Revlon to capitalize on. protects its brand as well as we do. We also that is structurally wrong and those we don’t designers like John Varvatos. The deal is expected to close this year, fol- see the same cultural fit and global focus on deal with. But if I love the company, it’s like Beattie acknowledged Arden’s lack of lowing regulatory and shareholder approval, growth that will benefit the combination of my little pet, you know?”

RETAIL Mexico by a community of women artisans. She decided in 2007 to move to India, staying three years and learning jewelry-making techniques and sourcing semiprecious and Jewelry Line Dezso precious stones. Prices at the pop-up range from $100 for a Mexican bracelet to $100,000 for an 18-karat rose gold bracelet set with about 50 carats of Gets Target Pop-up odd-shaped diamonds. “I keep evolving and going into fine jew- elry,” she said. ● The CFDA Fashion Incubator Beltrán’s jewelry and aspects of the casting A thin 18-karat rose gold bracelet with small graduate has a multipronged process. shark fins and black diamonds is $900. One of The back of the gallery is meant to evoke Dezso’s more unusual pieces is an aquama- approach to design. her home, with a long white couch — “this rine pendant decorated with a row of small BY SHARON EDELSON is much bigger than mine,” she said — and diamonds and anchored by a larger diamond. a chest with bronze shelves used as a coffee Another necklace is made from a boar tusk. table. A wooden dining table has chairs “I do a lot of one-of-a-kind pieces,” Beltrán Sara Beltrán’s pop-up shop looks like a mul- customized by Beltrán with inlaid shark fin said. “It’s very difficult for me to part with tiethnic bazaar, with Mexican woven baskets or bone set in a black filler for dramatic and Sara Beltran with a surf pieces.” and rugs, shark jaws hanging from the ceiling, graphic results. board she designed. A series of photographs of the royal palace Indian deities and Parisian flea market finds. The ocean is Beltrán’s constant inspiration, in Udaipur is mounted on frames with woven Target awarded the shop to Beltrán, a with shells and shark teeth serving as recur- mentoring, educational seminars and net- backgrounds. “I’m good friends with the royal CFDA Fashion Incubator graduate for her ring motifs. working opportunities. family,” Beltrán said. Below that is a group of jewelry line, Dezso, which means desire. “We were impressed with her beautiful Beltran grew up in Mexico and then moved charcoal drawings layered with watercolors of The two-day pop up will operate today hand-crafted jewelry line inspired by the to Texas with her family. She lived in Italy for palm trees. One of her sculptures, a piece of from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday from 11 ocean and her travels around the world,” said seven months in 1996 before moving to New black agate with dolomite on top, is “signed” a.m. to 7 p.m. at 511 West 25th Street in Tar- Rick Gomez, senior vice president of market- York to attend the Fashion Institute of Tech- with a small diamond on the back. get’s New York gallery. ing at Target. “Sara has a really clear point- nology. Her first internship was with Italian Beltrán, who recently relaunched the Beltrán has created an immersive environ- of-view as a designer and is building a strong Vogue, where she worked with stylists such Dezso web site, plans to add marquetry ment at the gallery, showcasing not only her brand in Dezso that is really differentiated. as Joe McKenna. She worked briefly in public techniques to her jewelry making. “Two years jewelry collection but her art work, sculp- Target has this unique ability to give exposure relations then returned to styling, always ago, I did a beach club in Saint-Tropez, Plague tures, furniture designs and found items, to up-and-coming designers. We help drive wearing her own jewelry. She said Bruce des Graniers, from the menu to the decor. I along with Target products that she custom- awareness of the brand.” Weber asked her to do a capsule collection of would love to do more interiors. ized, such as a $14.99 decorative glass storage Target has supported the CFDA since 1998 300 pieces. “I love being Mexican, but I wouldn’t be box that Beltrán painted with black palm with various initiatives, including the incu- “My mom is an artist,” Beltrán said. “She who I am if I didn’t live in India,” she said. “I leaves, priced at $600. There are also white bator, of which the retailer became the lead has amazing taste. My dad always gives her love everything handmade. The industry is so Target bath towels hand-embroidered with a underwriter in 2012. special [jewelry] pieces. I always remember massified.” row of shark teeth and lamp shades hand- The Fashion Incubator program fosters loving jewelry.” Of the CFDA Fashion Incubator, Beltrán painted with palm fronds. fashion talent by helping emerging design- Eventually, Beltrán started casting shells said, “It changed my life. It’s a really big deal

Beltran photograph by Thomas Iannaccone by photograph Beltran Photos on the walls show close-ups of ers with affordable studio space, business for the bracelets, which she has woven in for me.”