Extension Folder 341-1977

Choosing and Using

Lois Ingels, extension specialist- and clothing UNtV!:RSliY OF MINNESOTA DOCU)f.':::NTS AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE-UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA FEB l:; 1911

···.-:.:::.:- .· ··.:::-:··.;·.-.;,: .. each garment. For example, is often used in in tailored garments, but with dresses and blouses it isn't necessary and usually would not be desirable. When working with sweater knits, very soft knits, or soft looking designs little interfacing is used.

What Fabric Can Be Used as Interfacing?

Some fabrics are made specifically for interfacing but almost any fabric could be used for this purpose. The best interfacing choice depends on: the fabric weight of the garment, the fabric requirements, the fabric construction (knit, woven), the purpose of the interfacing in a specific part of the garment. Interfacing usually should be slightly lighter weight than the garment fabric. It should complement and rein­ force the garment fabric without overpowering it. Place the garment fabric over the interfacing and feel them to decide if the interfacing is heavy enough without being too stiff or heavy. The interfacing should have the same care require­ ments as the garment fabric. It does not need to be identical in fiber content, but it should be washable if the garment fabric is washable. The interfacing should have the same give or stretch as the garment fabric. Generally woven interfacing is used with a woven fabric and knit or nonwoven interfac­ ing is used with a knit to achieve the same give. Because interfacing has many purposes, you might Interfacing is a critical ingredient in clothing con­ want to use different kinds in different parts of gar­ struction. It can make the difference between a profes­ ments. For example, an interfacing with some give sional looking garment and a disappointment. New de­ might be needed in a knit blazer as general interfacing, velopments in have given many choices to but a stable interfacing would be used in a the person who sews at home. Although this may lead to area. A dress might need crisp interfacing in the cuffs some confusion, the interfacing choices today allow but something softer in the . consumers to use interfacing successfully in a wide To have the kind of interfacing you need for , variety of fabrics and garment designs. build up a supply of a variety of fabrics. Instead of purchasing 1/z yard of an interfacing fabric you use often, purchase 3 to 5 yards. This will save time and frustra­ Why Use Interfacing? tion. Interfacing is used for many reasons. These include: adding strength to part of a garment, Interfacing Fabrics Vary adding body to the fabric, In selecting interfacing fabric, there are many deci­ giving a crisp feel and appearance to a part of the sions to make. Will you choose garment, -in or fuse-in controlling stretch in part of the garment, woven or knit or nonwoven preventing the allowances from showing on the outside of the garment. stable or stretch crisp or soft Where to Use It washable or dry clean only heavy or medium or light Interfacing is used anywhere it is important to add body, crispness, stability, durability, or strength. This includes collar, cuffs, neckline, pockets, hems, Stitch-In or Fuse-In Interfacing: and buttonhole areas, belts, waistbands, armholes, and the area. Both types of interfacings have advantages and dis­ In some fabrics and patterns, interfacing is not neces­ advantages. You have to decide for each garment. Here sary in all of these areas, but be sure to consider it with are some things to consider.

2 STITCH-IN FUSE-IN Advantages Disadvantages Advantages Disadvantages Softer, more subtle May soften somewhat Quick to use-no need Gets firmer after fusing. You shaping. after washing. to baste. may be fooled by its weight and crispness. Be sure to test Usable with both wov­ If nonwoven, may in Shape can be built into a sample with your fabric. en and knit fabrics . an area where completely en­ a garment as fusing oc­ Generally cannot be used closed (like a collar). curs without need to do successfully on napped fab­ hand or machine pad rics because fusing flattens May shrink. Preshrink stitching. nap, but test a sample. They with the garment fabric work well with some imita­ before cutting it out. Adds firmness to an tion suedes. area and makes top­ Tends to flatten such fabrics May need to be basted stitching easier. as gauze and seersucker. in place. May damage some fabrics that cannot be steam pressed. For firm shaping may Fusing agent may seep need machine or hand through sheer fabrics. pad stitching. May not adhere to all fabrics. Excess moisture used in fus­ ing may cause too much stiff­ ness. Always follow direc­ tions on amount of moisture to use.

What Type of Stretch or Give Do You Want in the Interfacing? With today's interfacings there are choices of differ­ ent types of stretch. Your choice depends on the gar­ ment fabric and the location where interfacing will be used. You may need to use several different types of interfacing in each garment to achieve the best results. Multi-Directional Stretch Stretches equally in all di­ No Stretch rections. This nonwoven Little Stretch ( ) fabric is often described as Much Stretch ~---➔ all bias.

No Stretch Bias Nonwoven fabric which does not have any give. Typical of woven fabrics. Usually not recommended The most give is on the for clothing. Is best used in true bias of the fabric. Will items such as purses, give like woven fabrics draperies, and craft proj­ when fused or stitched in. ects.

One-Way Stretch Modified One- Stretches in the crosswise Way Stretch direction of the interfacing Some interfacings stretch and is stable lengthwise. --- - -> most crosswise but do -➔ Can be used in areas that have some give in length need to stretch or can be and bias directions. This used to stabilize areas like tends to duplicate the waistbands. May be non­ stretch in many knit fab­ woven or knit. rics.

3 Use the interfacing stretch to help you. For example, most of the interfacing from the darts. Leave enough so when using one-way stretch interfacing that is stable you will catch the interfacing in the stitching. off along the lengthwise , waistbands so the grain­ the interfacing in any corners. The trimming will elimi­ line arrow on the is lengthwise on the interfac­ nate bulk. ing. This will stabilize and stiffen the waistband. But­ tonholes and the zipper area can be stabilized the same way. Create soft roll in a collar by cutting the interfacing so the stretch goes around the neck.

Does Interfacing Need to Be Preshrunk? Some interfacing may need preshrinking. Woven stitch-in interfacings may shrink during cleaning. It is a If there are no fusing directions with the interfacing good idea to preshrink stitch-in interfacings in the same you are using, follow these general directions. way you will care for the finished garment. If you wash 1. Set the iron on steam or wool setting. the interfacing, be sure to use detergent and dry it in the dryer if that's what you will do to the finished garment. 2. Place fusible interfacing with the fusible side next to the wrong side of your garment fabric. Fuse-in interfacings also may shrink. Woven fuse-in interfacing can be preshrunk by soaking it for 10 min­ 3. Baste the fusible interfacing in place by lightly utes in hot water. After soaking, carefully roll the inter­ pressing from the center to the outside edge for in a towel to blot out excess water. Then dry it about 2 seconds in each location. Now it won't over a shower rod or hanger. DO NOT WRING DRY OR slip. PUT IN THE DRYER or you will remove or damage the 4. Place a damp press cloth or paper towel over fusing agent. the area to be fused. Fuse-in nonwoven interfacings generally do not 5. Fuse about 10 seconds for lightweight interfac­ shrink as much as the wovens. Fuse-in nonwoven and ings and 15 seconds for medium to heavy knit interfacing can be preshrunk in the process of ap­ weight interfacings. DO NOT SLIDE THE plying it to the garment. Press the garment fabric with IRON. Use firm pressure on the iron. You might steam to remove wrinkles and warm up the fabric. Put even want to bear down with both hands. the interfacing on the fabric with the fusible side next to the garment fabric. Hold your steam iron 1 to 2 inches 6. Move the iron to the next section of the interfac­ over the interfacing and steam for 5 seconds without ing with a little overlap between sections and letting the iron touch the fabric. You may notice the press again. fusible interfacing shrinking. Then fuse the two togeth­ 7. COOL BEFORE HANDLING. If you handle the er. fabric before it has had a chance to cool, you DO NOT PRESHRINK FUSIBLE WEB. It doesn't may damage the fuse and have to press again. need it and you could destroy the web. Fuse-in interfacings generally adhere best to fabrics that are fairly flat with little surface texture. When sew­ Can Fusible Web Be Used as Interfacing? ing with a fuzzy or highly textured fabric, test the fuse-in interfacing on a scrap of fabric before attempting to fuse Fusible web is used to adhere two fabrics together. it to the garment. When used alone in knit fabrics, it provides a little body, which may be all the interfacing needed in some areas. It does not add the reinforcement needed in some loca­ Remove Fused Interfacing tions such as buttonhole areas. Fusible web also can be used to fuse a stitch-in interfacing to garment fabric. Be Do you need to remove fused interfacing? It is possi­ sure to try this on a sample of the garment fabric. This ble. Steam the fused area by holding the steam iron technique may give more stiffness than you need. above the fused area for about 5 seconds. Then you will be able to peel off the interfacing. Some of the fusing agent will be left OR the garment fabric. To remove it, Special Tips For Fuse-In Interfacings place a damp, lightweight scrap of fabric over the excess fusing agent and press. Peel it off while it is still warm. READ THE DIRECTIONS! FUSIBLE INTERF AC­ Do this several times if necessary using a different fabric INGS DO NOT ALL FUSE THE SAME WAY. Most of the scrap for each pressing. A little more will come off on newer fuse-in interfacings fuse with steam. Some fuse the fabric scrap each time. with a dry iron and will defy attempts with steam to fuse them to anything. Check to see- Special Tips for Stitch-In Interfacings if the instructions suggest a steam or dry iron, if the instructions call for a damp or dry press Cut stitch-in interfacings cloth, the size of the garment piece how long it will take for the interfacing to fuse. being interfaced. Trim it out of corners before stitching it When cutting out fuse-in interfacing, cut it the size to the garment piece. Inter­ of the garment piece being interfaced. Then trim away½ facing can be machine basted inch of the interfacing from all seam allowances and or basted to the garment

4 before stitching the garment together. To machine baste, blouse. If you prefer to fuse the interfacing to the body of stitch through the interfacing and the garment piece 1/8 the garment, pink the outer edge of the interfacing be­ inch outside the seam line. Trim away interfacing seam fore fusing. This will soften the ridge. allowance right next to the stitching before sewing the When fusing interfacing to a collar, cuff, or waist­ garment together. To pin baste, pin the interfacing to the band, fuse to the wrong side of the upper collar, cuff, or garment pieces as they are being pinned together. waistband. This procedure will make the fabric a little Stitch. Trim interfacing out of the close firmer for topstitching and will prevent the imprint of to the seam line. seam allowances from showing on the outside of the garment. When using a one-way stretch interfacing, use the Where Should the Interfacing Be Placed? give to advantage. A collar will have a gentle roll if the interfacing is cut with the stretch going around the Stitch-In collar. If working with a heavy fabric or a tailored gar­ ment, use a lightweight one-way stretch interfacing on In using stitch in types, the interfacing is usually put both the upper and under collar. An extra piece of inter­ against the back of the part of the garment fabric that facing cut to fit in the stand area of the collar can be shows. For example, the interfacing is placed aginst the fused over the other under-collar interfacing. Cut this upper collar, upper section of the cuff, and next to the strip so the stretch goes the other way. shirt or blouse front. in knit fabrics may stretch and lose their shape if the interfacing gives with the buttonhole. To Fuse-In stabilize the buttonhole area cut one way stretch inter­ When using fuse-in interfacings, the interfacing facing so that it has no give along the length of the edge may form a ridge if the interfacing stops part way buttonhole. Cut a strip about 1 inch long and as wide as across a piece of the garment. Results are often better if the rest of the interfacing. Fuse it to the facing or pink the interfacing is fused to the facing pieces. This is true the edge and fuse it to the body of the garment. with interfacing down the front of a blouse, vest or See the chart for appropriate placement of interfac­ jacket, or around the armhole in a vest or sleeveless ing.

FUSE-IN STITCH-IN

Blouse or vest back

5 FUSE-IN STITCH-IN

Collar

(Stretch goes around collar)

Blazer or dress collar (heavy UNDER UNDER fabric)

(Cut extra piece of interfacing) Pad Stitch

Blouse or vest front

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Cuffs

6 FUSE-IN STITCH-IN

Patch pockets

Zipper (for lightweight, stretchy, or loosely woven fabrics •·. only)

Waistband

Buttonhole pinked reinforcement (one way stretch fusibles or knit fabrics)

t-1 :ff:: (Note change in grain to stabilize >t.t buttonhole areas.) 1--1 ·~: \:f:\

7 - -

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Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in agriculture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Roland H. Abraham, Director of Agricultural Extension Service, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, Minne­ sota 55108. We offer our programs and facilities to all persons without regard to race, creed, color, sex, age, or national origin.