APRIL, 1952 RESEARCH BULLETIN 495
UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION
1. H. LoNGWrLL, Director
A STUDY OF CURTAIN MARQUISHTE:S
I. The Serviceability of Five Cotton Marquisettes With Ordinary and Sped al Finishes. II. The Effects of Laundering on Cotton, Rayon and Nylon Marquisettes With Special Finishes.
A DELLA GINTER AND BERNICE BLUE
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(Publication ..utho,i,..d Apr!! 2. 1952)
COLUMBIA, MISSOURI TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Introduction ... _...... _. ___ ...... 3 1. The Serviceability of Five Cotton Marquisettes With Ordinary and With Special Finishes _. __ 5 Preparation and Use of Fabric Strips and Curtains 5 Testing Procedure ...... 6 Results _...... 7 As Purchased Fabrics . 7 Laundered Fabrics and Worn Curtains 9 Summary and Conclusions ...... 20 II. Effects of Launder ing on Marquiseltes With Varied Finishes _. 20 Testing P rocedure __,_ ... , ... 21 Results __ . ______._...... _...... ,. . ._._ .. _.. _... _._. ___ . 21 ~ __~ ---,-_" " --;C,-,-,-,-.-, : :-.. " , ~,~ ~ ~n-~ ;'i ~ ur,!,t' s~. .... : .:;'...... 21 · · : · ·' · ·· ': · : ~ ·d · ...... L..aun ered Pane l,s . ~ . __ . ______...... ,...... 23 Summ~'~ '~ ~d~i iu~ i~ ___ ...... ,...... 34 . I" " ...... • ;;• .; " ::" . Bib itii: ra i!i ;Y" ·-- "~- j - : ':'.: ' __ __ . ~. - • _____ .. _...... _, ...... 35 : ; ~ ", : . , - " " " '" .... A STUDY OF CURTAIN MARQUISETIES
I. The Serviceability of Five Cotton Marquisettes With Ordinary and Special Finishes. II. The Effects of Laundering on Cotton, Rayon and Nylon Marquisettes With Special Finishes.
ADELL... GINTER A!>D BERNICE BLUE
INTRODUCTION A marquisette is a sheer fabric of leno construction in which filling yarns,are interlaced between a group of two warps twisted together. This construction makes it possible to have a sheer fabric with a minim!ill'l of slippage in the widely spaced filling yarns. Fabrics so made are widely used for glass curtains. They are made of cotton, rayon, acetate, nylon, mixtures of cotton and rayon and some of the newer synthetics. The practical considerations which determine the satisfaction derived from glass curtains are: (1) the ability to retain their original dimensiOIl$, espeeially in length; (2) the ability to retain their original 'hand', feel or crispness; (3) the ability to withstand exposure to light and atmospheric conditions; and (4) the ease in caring for them. In a study made of curtain marquisettes by Morrison and Jeline k ,~· length shrinkage of finished cotton marquisettes ranged from 5 to 10 per cent; width shrinkage from 4 to 17 per cent. Length shrinkage in rayon marquisettes was greater than that found in the cottons. Petzel's study? of cotton and rayon glass curtains recommended an al lowance of 2 to 31h inches per yard lengthwise, for various weights of cot ton marquisettes and from 6.5 to 7.5 inches per yard lengthwise for var ious weights of viscose marquisette. Saville8 compared marquisettes of regular and permanent type fin ishes. She found that nearly all of the cottons shrank over 3 per cent in length and the rayons over 5 per cent; only one nylon shrank over 2.5 per cent. She also found that the cottons and rayons with permanent finishes shrank considerably less than those with regular finishes. Finishes used on curtain marquisettes might be of a wide variety. Finishes add to the appearance of fabrics and generally make them more acceptable. Some finishes like pressing or calendering are only mecllani cal; others employ the use of small amounts of stiffening or binding agents. OSee Bibliography on page 35. , MISSOURI AGRICULTURAL ExPZ.JUMENT STATION
Also, heavier stiffening agents like starch and china day are used. These add to the weight and stiffness of the materiah and are not permanent. More recently resins of the thermoplastic and thermosetting type have been used on fabrics. These resins are applied to fabrics, then dried and cured. Many variations may be found with resin treatments.' The effects they produce may vary; some produce soft, pliable effects, others produce stiffness;.some impart remarkable stability. The location of the resin on the fabric may vary; it may be within the fiber. between the fibers or around them. The permanence of the finish they produce de pends upon the variety as well as the method of application. Whereas, the mechanicaffinishes and older finishes of the stiffening variety are non durable, the newer finishes may be more or less durable. Some resin-like fibers such as nylon may be heat set which tends to stabilize the internal molecular structure. This heat setting in addition to reducing dimensional changes may also lmpart a firmer hand to the fabric. Saville8 compared cotton, rayon and nylon marquisettes with regular and permanent type finishes as to their dimensional stability but did not measure differences in the crispness of the fabrics. Various studies have been made comparing the effects of light and heat on the strength of fabrics. Grime s~ compared the effect of sunlight on the stl'e n~th and color of cotton fabrics. She stated that "the heavier, coarser fabrics were less tendered than the thinner, finer fabrics, probably on account of the greater resistance to the penetration of sunlight." Fletcher' compared. the effects of heat and light on glass curtain fabrics made of cotton, linen, silk, wool, acetate, viscose, nylon, glass fabric and plastics. She stated that it would be best to use curtain fabrics of acetate rayon and glass fiber if the curtains would be subjected to heat or light from radiators, registers or windows getting direct sunlight. Petzel', in her comparative study of cotton and rayon glass curtain fabrics, stated: "On a percentage basis, the light weight viscose marqui sette, cellulose acetate marquisette and some cotton marquisette lost espe cially high proportions of their strength after exposure to light." Saville$ compared losses in strength during use for cottons, rayons and nylons with regular and permanent finishes. She stated: "Although the nylons lost a greater proportion of strength, they had better filling strength than the cottons and rayons after a year of use due to their much higher strength when new." She also stated: "Permanent finishes im proved the resistance of loss of strength in all the cotton marquisettes, but s.imilar improvements were not found in the rayons." At one of the test periods she found the pennanent finished nylons showed lower loss in stungth than the others. Lustered synthetics are considered by some to offer greater resistance to light than delustered. RUItARCH BUU.ETlN 495 5
Ease in caring for curtain fabrics is a very important factor to every homemaker. Many studies have shown that shrinkage is a big factor in curtain marquisettes. Although length shrinkage is perhaps the most important, since alterations for length are needed when this occurs, exces sive shrinkages in width may cause a curtain to hang unevenly. Low wet strengths of rayons are also a consideration when using these varieties. Fletcher, Hensley and Gilliam\ in their study of the Effects of Laun dering on Size and Shape of Sheer Window Curtains concluded that dry ing on curtain stretchers is probably the best method to overcome chang ing size and shape. They stated that even though damage from stretcher pins on fabrics of viscose and acetate rayon might be lessened by sewing a narrow piece of light weight material around the curl.ain, considerable extra time is involved. Permanently set curtains as found in nylons are not the whole solu tion to an 'even hang' since uneven permanent setting in such a curtain will tnake reshaping impossible. Saville~ reported this to be true with two of the nylons in her study. 1. THE SERVICEABIUTY OF FIVE CorrON l'rIARQUISETTES WITH ORDINARY AND SPECIAL FINIS HES. In the fan of 1947 a group of cotton marquisette curtains were put in service at the Home Management house at the University of Missouri. All were of leno construction. Three of these fabrics were advertised as having a permanent finish; two had no special finish. One with a cus tomary finish differed from the other four in that the filling yams inter laced the warps in groups of three, giving a dcnser filling co unt than the others. The experiment was set up wi th the idea of comparing the serviceabil ity of cotton marquisettes with customary finishes with those of speeial finishes. The differences between the customary and special finish is descriQed in the Introducti on. Preparation and Use of Fabric Strips and Curtains The Fabrics, As Purchased-5ufficient lengths were cut off each fabric, as purchased, to determine the yarn construction, count, weight, sizing, crispness and breaking strength. The Laundered Fabrics--Sufficient lengths of each fabric were cut off to permit determinations of yarn counts, weight, crispness, shrinkage, and breaking strength after 1, 7, 10 and 13 launderings. These strips were laundered. with the materials made into curtains. The Curtains--The once laundered fabrics of each variety were made into curtains and hung at the windows of the Home Management house. 6 MISSOURI ACRlCULTURAL Exf'£ItU,1ENT STATION
More than the exact number of curtains to cover the windows were con structed. This made it possible to withdraw a panel for testing after var ious wear periods. The panels were rotated at the windows using the three exposures; north, east and south, or north, west, and south. Alter hanging twelve weeks at one exposure, the curtains were laundered and rehung. This procedure was repeated twelve times, alternating the ex posure. One panel was removed for laboratory testing after each 6, 9 and 12 periods of wear, or 72, 108 and 144 weeks respectively, and approxI mately the same time at each of three exposures. The curtain panels were divided into four equal parts, excluding the top hem and the part that fell below the sill. The curtains were divided so that the wear in different parts could be compared. Tests for count, weight, crispness and tensile strength were made on the four separate sec tioru of each discarded curtain. The strips of fabric used for tests on laundered fabrics as well as the curtain panels were washed together in an agitator type electric washing machine. A neutral soap and water temperature of about 120°F . were used for the 5-minute wash period. This was followed by two warm water r inses, of five minutes each. A three-minute soak period in lukewarm wllter preceded the washing of the soiled curtains. AU of the fabric strips and the curtains with a special finish were hung on a line until almost dry. They were ironed on a nat table top using a hand iron with an automatic heat control set for cotton. The curtains without a special finish were given a light starch and put on curtain stretchers to dry. The hems were pressed to give a better appearance. Testing Procedure Methods recommended by A.S.T.M. Committee D13~ were used whenever possible. Standard atmospheric conditions were used in mak ing tests for weight, crispness and breaking strength. A plan of testing was worked out, whereby random sampling was used. The same plan was used on the 'as purchased' strips, laundered strips and the sections of the curtain panels. Yarn Twists-Ten twist determinations were made for each set of warp and filling yarns on a Scott twist counter. The direction of the twist and the average twisl of each set was reported. Yarn. Counts-An average of five counts in each of the warp and fill ing direction was made with a Lowinson thread counter. W eight in ounces per square yard was determined on the basis of twenty-seven square inches taken in three, three-inch squares. Siring-The method described by A.S.T.M. using O.lN HNOs was used for determining the amount of sizing on three samples of each fabric. Shrinkage-A strip, on the fabrics which were laundered only, was REsE.utCH BULLn'1N 495 7 marked off with colored threads. Three measurements each of one yard in length and the entire width were made and averaged; the shrinkage was determined from differences in length and width after laundering. Breaking StTength-The raveled strip method was used. on a Scott tester. The average of six strios in each the warp and filling directions were used. Both dry and wet strength tests were made. A correction for tensUe strength was made on the basis of the yarn count of the original fabric. This was done by multiplying the strength of the broken sample by the yarn count of the new fabric and dividing by the yarn count of the broken sample. ElOllgeltion at the time of break was determined by the use of the automatic recorder on the tensile strength machine. CrispTless was measured on an instrument devised in the textiles lab oratory and made in the physics laboratory of the University of Missouri. A four-inch square of fabric was hung warpwise, on a one by four and one-half inch shelf and held in place by a weight. The angle formed by the fabric at the bottom as it stood out, was measured by protractors at each edge of the fabric. An average was taken of four measurements made on three samples of each fabric.
RESULTS As Purchased Fabrics All fabrics were of leno construction with the filling yams interlacing between groups of two twisted warps with the exception of one fabric in which a group of three filling yarns interlaced the twisted warps. This fabric was one with a customary finish and the most expensive. (See Table 1.) It cost about ten cents per square yard more than the others. Also, the filling count was greater, producing a fabric with a more bal anced construction. The yarns in this fabric were single ply, the twist in the warps were similar in number with those found in the other fabrics but the twists in the filling were slightly greater. The two cheapest fabrics were one with a special finish and one wIth out. Their counts were similar but much greater warpwise than filling wise. The cheaper one, which had the special finish, was made of single ply yarn with slightly fewer twists warpwise and slightly more fillingwise than the other cheap fabric which had two ply warp and single ply fillings. The highest percentage of soluble Sizing materials was removed from these fabrics. The two remaining fabrics, both with a special finish, were similar in price. One had a two-ply warp and a single ply filling and had fewer twists warpwise and slightly more fillingwise than the other fabric of similar price which was made of two-ply warp and filling yarns. The fabric of least crispness was the most expensive fabric with a ~
T~_ '.. CQo!PAII_ 0' "~ISZ'TTZ FABRICS"" PlJllCHAII&l). ~IOOO"D-",
I. 1'<1,,.... 01 fl.,...18. 110 2. Po,,...... '''' .. ~ ..,,~ ...... n.oo G.U G.11 Ito , , ... 1.11 U .• 0.' ...... , '1.1 11.1 1>00'" ....m' • n.' •• I...... ,1IoIA,_\IIOy en., 01'_ " cf - " .. '11.1,- .... 0.11 _ , 1.1' .., •. .., .., ... n ~ • • ••• ".1 n' , .., .., 12.$ ".1 - •. 0,', ." ...... • I.'t5 0 •• ' •. ,. _ n. , , " ... ,.• "'n .• 1'.1 ... n' u 11.$ .... , , U 1.41 I'~I 'L$ 10.1 11.1 $. --~!l[ f1Itl ... •. 00 •• ,. '.M n. _"I' .." __ _ ~.' n .• !J.O .... D.O 1...... ,. 010",-","" __ ... «I~'" * l8 ~ TABLE 2 •• SHRINKAGE (EXPRESSED IN PERCENTAGE) OF CURTAIN FABRICS AFTER LAUNDERING > "r L.... ndt r lngs 1 2 3 -. • 6 7 10 Fabric Wa!:f Fill war~ Fill Ware " 1. Special • • • • • i finish 2.1 6.7 3.' 7.0 3.1 6.2 3.1 6.2 '.1 7.6 '. 2 9.3 4.9 •., '.2 9.' ' .3 '.7 ~ 2. Special " Finish 2.1 6.6 3.5 '.9 3.1 3.1 9.' ••• 11.5 '.3 14.7 '.6 15.2 6.3 16.6 7.' 16.4 3. Special ••• Finish 1.4 6.0 2.' 7.1 2.6 7.2 2.9 6.5 2.' 7.6 4.7 9.0 .., 10.0 5.' 10.0 5.' 9.' 4. Customa ry r Finish 5.' 22.2 4.4 28.8 6.3 28.1 5.0 24.8 6.9 24.9 7.7 30.5 7.7 32.7 7.1 31.1 11 .7 30.7 5. Custo mary Finis h '.7 15.2 4.4 15.0 '. 4 15.5 6.' 14.5 6.3 18.0 6.6 17.7 '.6 1'1.7 7.5 18.7 8.3 16.8 RESEARCH BUI.I.ETIN 495 9 customary finish and well balanced yarn count, The most crisp fabric was one with a permanent finish. There was a similarity in the breaking strengths in all the fabrics; the warp strengths varied only about three and one-half pounds and were more than twice as great as the filling strengths, with the exception of the fabric with the filling yams in groups of three. The strength of this fabric in both the warp and filling direction was higher than all the others and more nearly balanced. In summariung the data collected on the "as purchasl!'d fabric" it might be said that the marquisette with the filling yarns in groups of three indicated a superior fa bric, with the exception of its single ply yams and low degree of crispne5l5. However, crispness determined on an un laundered fabric might not mean too much since this quality might result from finishes which might in themselves vary in kind, amount and weight and in the firmness produced by the calendering process and might be durable or removed by washing. Laundered Fabries and Worn Curtains Shrinkage-Shrinkage was greater in the fabrics with the customary finishes than in those with special finishes. (Table 2 and Fig. 1.) The least shrinkage occurred in fabric three which had a permanent finish; and by far the greatest shrinkage occurred in fabric four which had a customary finish. Although shrinkage was progressive with successive launderings, it had a tendency to level off after about the sixth. The first laundering i>roduced shrinkage of one-fifth to one-half of the total shrinkage in length; and from one-third to more than three-fourths of the total shrink age in width. Width shrinkage was greater than length shrinkage in aU fabrics. Other authors, Morrison, Jelinck\ Petzelt, and Saville" have report ed simi1at' tendencies in relationships between width and length shrinkage. Their results have been reviewed in the Introduction. Most fabrics shrink more in length than in width but the lena con struction of the marquisettes is likely responsible for the greater filling wist shrinkage in these fabrics. The results on these fabrics indicate that less shrinkage can be ex pected in marquisettes with special than with customary finishes but there is enough residual shrinkage to necessitate an adjustment in length after laundering. Saville~, in her study of marquisette curtains stated that permanent finished cottons and rayons were considerably lower in shrinkage than those with a regulat' finish. Yam Count-In all but fabric five, warp counts fat' exceeded the filling counts and remained that way through repe:atl!'d launderings. Fab- 10 MISSOURI ACRICIJLTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION Fabric 1 20 "10 , JJ Fabric 2 I' f 1:[ JJ ~ "1--"LlJJ ~ JJIl'- JlJJLF'-'bJ' Jl·IL,L3~ IIIl'- Jlil-L -11Jilll'-1l1 ~" ':; 30 ~ 25 ":;; 20 ~ I' 10 5 Fabric 4 20 I ' 10, I 2 3 , , 6 7 10 13 Fabric 5 oWidth Launderings • Leflitlt Fig. l.-5hrlnka,e of fabrics alter Ia\llldering. riC five was much better balanced in count. The counts in aU fabrics progressively increased with launderings until the seventh when they tended to level off (Table 3). The results recorded lor change in dimensions (shrinkage) might be TABLE 3·· YARN COUNTS··FABRlCS AS PURCHASED AND LAUNDERED, AND IN CURTAlN"S AFTER WEAR. l. Special Ftnts h 48.0 2'1.2 SO., 28.0 55.0 30.0 5U "., 57.2 30.8 A 57.6 30.2 60.0 30.6 56.4 31.0 B 57.6 30.0 60.4 30.6 58.0 31.0 C 58.0 29.8 59. 2 30.0 59.2 30.8 D 57.6 30.0 58.4 30.01. 60.0 31.0 ,. Special 57 .8 Finlsh 46.0 26.4 49.2 26.8 ".0 28.0 58.4 28.4 29.0 A 61.8 28.0 62.8 ".6 60.0 28.8 ~ B 80.0 28.4 63.6 28.8 57.2 ".0 > C 59.6 28.8 62.0 ".6 58.4 28.8 ~ D 59.6 28.8 61.2 29.0 58.0 28.4 = ,. ..,.",ol "".... 52.8 27.0 55.6 27.6 59.0 29.0 59.6 29.6 60.0 30.6 A 59.2 29.2 62.8 30.2 62.4 29.8 " B 59.2 211.2 62.0 30.2 61.6 30.6 " C 59.2 211.6 62.4 30.0 61.6 30.4 D 58.6 29.8 62.0 30.2 62.4 30.2 ~ C\lstomary ~ •• ~ Finlsh 47 .2 Z7.0 60.0 28.2 n.o 30.0 69.2 30.0 73.6 30.8 A 54.0 28.0 57.2 58.0 28.6 ~ B 53.2 28.2 59.8 "2S.4 .. 58.4 28.8 C 53.2 28.6 58.8 28.4 54.8 29.0 D 53.8 28.4 58.0 28.4 55.8 28.0 ,. C\lstomary F inis h 48.2 42.2 58.8 44.7 82.0 47.0 82.8 ·46.0 63.2 46.8 A 54.0 48.0 56.4. 43.4 56.0 43.8 B 58.0 44.8 58.8 44.0 58.0 43.8 C 53.2 45.4 5'1.2 44.8 58.0 45.0 D 52.8 46.0 55.6 45.0 56.0 44.2 11, 7, 10, 13 refe r to times laundered. 2SectloIUJo f curtains as follows; A·I01ll'er , B· lo .. er cenler, C·lop center , D·to p 3 Wear perlod l: 72 weeks, lauru.1er ed 'Ix; 108 weekS, laundered l Ox; 144 weeo, laundored 13x ~ ~ 12 MISSOURl AGRICUL.TURAL EXPERIMENT STATION repeated for changes in yarn except that whereas the greatest dimensional changes occurred in the width of the fabric, the greatest changes occurred warpwise in the counts. In the specially finished fabrics, approximately the same counts were found on the wom curtains as on the fabrics laundered a similar number of times. Both the worn curtains and the laundered lengths were ironed by hand in a similar manner. Decided lower counts were found in the worn curtains than on the similar laundered fabrics with customary fin ishes. The curtains with ordinary finishes were dried on stretchers, thus eliminating the decided dimensional changes which resulted when the short lengths of corresponding fabrics were laundered and ironed by hand. Weights--The weights of all fabrics were the highest after seven launderings. Thereafter they changed little except fabric four which decreased. In the fabrics with special finishes, the weights of the worn curtains closely corresponding to the weights of the unworn fabrics laun dered the same number of times. The worn curtains made from the fab rics with ordinary finishes were less than the weights of the fabrics sim ilarly laundered but not worn; this tendency was especially pronounced in the cheaper fabric with the very high amount of sizing. The fact that the curtains made from the fabrics with ordinary finishes were stretched, not ironed, and the high amount of sizing in fabric four likely account for this. (See Table 4.) TABU': 4 -- WEIGHrS' --FAeIllCS loS PURClIloS£O ANI.> LAUNDERED, ANI.> IN CUR rlJNS AFTER 1.234 1.38 1.52 1.47 1.42 I.4~ l.58 1.40 • 1.51 1.62 1.4~ ,• U S 1.61 \.48 D 1.4~ ... ,.U ,. Spocial FInUh 1.205 1.32 1.58 1.55 1.55 1.51 1.57 l.46 • 1.44 • 1.83 1.82 , .. ~ 1.83 ... D 1.81 1.57 loS3 ,. "KW ,w~ 1.174 1.21 l.ll \.30 1.30 • 1.31 1.25 1.30 1.31 .. ~ 1.32 ,• 1.36 1.27 1.35 D 1.35 \.31 l.33 CUaro", . ,..,. •• FInish 1.980 1.63 1.98 1.83 1.72 1.48 1.43 1.40 • 1.38 1.48 1.49 ,• \.U 1.49 ,.~ D 1.45 1.39 ,.• CUoro",.,..,. •• 1.85 ~~ 1.471 1.80 2.03 1.81 1.86 1.83 .. ~ • 1.81 1.10 1.11 ,• 1. 61 1.10 ,.~ D 1.53 1.72 l.n ' Wel",! expres .""'" Oil/IUS pn S<\Wl.Fe yArd. 11,7,10,13, ..lor to tlmea launder"". ZS-cllO,,", 01 curta!ns .. foUowS; A-Io_. , B-Iow... "nter , c.~cont • • , O-lOp '''''... . perloda: 72 ...... 1<1, launde."d 7~; U)8 ..eeks, I.Wld • • "" 1 ; 144 ... . k., Jaun TfJlLE ~-- AS PIJRCHAllEll MV LAUNDEREll, IoNl> m CUIITAlNS , I ~.a 60.0 U .• ~6.~ 21.7 13.9 ••• •• 11.& ••• ••• "0 17.' 10.0 11.1.., 0 19.~ IU ,. $pod.. 1 FInish 35.8 11.9 14.0 13.2 13.2 , 11.3 10.2 10.4 13.2 10. 1 •0 15.4 11.8•• • IU 0 16.3 10.8 11.8 •• 2U I S.O 15.2 , 11.2 10.1 ""W~ 48.-3 26.0 ••• .. 11.1 n.t ••• •0 IS.S 11.8 12.3 0 18.1 14.9 13.0 Rlp,,'" a.o measured by Crt_pom.t.r. ii, 1, 10, 13 , rofer to tim.' launoared. 2S<-ctlo"" 01 curtaIN! as fOl low., A_Io ... or, 6_lo.oer cente r, C-109 cenler, 11-lOp. SWear period. : 12 ..... oks, laundered 1x; 108 ...... k •• laundcred lax; 144 .....~., laund. r ed 13x. Crispness-The crispness of the special finish fabrics was generally greater than that of the fabrics with customary finishes. This was true when the fabrics were new and after they had undergone thirteen laun derings. (Table 5 and Fig. 2.) Generally, there was a progressive de crease in crispness in all fabrics with repeated laundering. Four of the five fabrics showed no change in crispness between the tenth and the thirteenth launderings. In the fabrics with special finishes, the worn curtains were less crisp than the same fabrics, laundered only; the lower part of the curtains which received the most wear was the least crisp. In the fabrics with customary finishes the wom curtains were more crisp than the corresponding fabrics which were laundered only. The fact that these curtains were stretched during laundering is a likely explanation. Fabric two, which upon analysis, showed a high amount of sizing, did not decrease as much in crispness as either of the other two fabrics with special finishes. Fabric four, which also had a high amount of sizing, but had been given an ordinary finish, decreased more in crispness than the other fabric with an ordinary finish and a small amount of siring. From this study it would seem that fabrics with a high amount of an ordinary finish might be expected to decrease greatly in crispness, whereas a fabric 14 MISSOURI ACRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION ~ • all purc ha..se 1 ,7,10,13 refu to launderl",. A_lolller sl!Ction worn Cl,lrtain B _lIe>:t lower • • • C_nexl: to top' • • O _top section ' • • • Fabric 1 • • " ~ 30 -•" • i.• " • U " 0 F ilb r lc 2 Fabric 4 50 " " " " 0 1 7 ABCDIOABCDISABCD Fabric 3 Fabr ic 5 Launderings and Weu Fil. 2.-Crispne,q of new and llWldered labrie., and of laundered curtains aIter wear. with a high amount of a special finish might retain the crispness as well as another with a smaller amount of a speeisl finish. Crispness in these fabrics as well as the durability of the crispness might be dependent upon the amount and kind of finish as well as the REsEARCH BULL£TlN 495 15 methods of setting the permanent sizings and calendering used for any of the fabrics. Starch-like materials, etc., produce rather heavy non-dur· able finishes; resin-type finishes are light in weight and may be quite dur· able, depending upon their method of application. The pressing pl'ocess itself may influence the stiffness of a fabric. Most fabrics when very wet and ironed become stiffer than those which are more lightly pressed and holding less moisture. Dry Breaking Strength-In all the marquisettes, the warp strengths were quite similar and greatly exceeded the filling strengths. Fabric five was better balanced in strength, likely because of the more balanced yarn count. Progressive decreases in warp and filling strengths were noted with repeated launderings. (See Table 6 and Fig. 3.) In comparing the strengths of the worn curtains with the $imllar fabrics laundered only, it was noted that: (I ) the strengths of the curtains in all sections were usually less than the strengths of laundered fabrics, (2) the differences in strength values between worn curtains and launder ed fabrics became greater with the longer wear periods. (3) The strengths in the lower sections of the curtain, or that part exposed to the light and weather, were noticeably less than the strengths in the upper protected areas. The only fabric that was not nearly or completely worn out at the end of the last wear period was Fabric five. As compared with the other fab- rics, it might have withstood much more wear. Since all three of the fabrics with special finishes and one similarly eonstructed with a customary finish showed similar strength tendencies no statement could be made concerning the superiority of one finish over the others. The construction of the fabrics as noted by the difference between Fabric five and the others was likely responsible for the superior strength of this fabric. Wei Breaking Sirength-The wet breaking strengths of the new and laundered marquisettes, with but few exc:.lplions, were higher than the dry strengths. (See Table 7 and Fig. 4.) In comparing the wet and dry strengths of the worn curtains it was noticed that in the sections of the curtain where wear was greatest and after the longer wear periods, the wet stre~gths were often less than the dry. New cotton of good quality Is stronJ;!er wet than dry. Cotton, exposed to various kinds of wear espe cially after lonJ;! periods and severe treatment such as is found in con tinued exposure to light, suffers a chemical breakdown which may affect the strength. The wet strengths followed approximately the same pattern as the dry strengths in that, (1) they tend to progressively decrease after laundering, (2 ) they were noticeably less in the worn curtains than in the similar laundered fabrics and (3) they were lowest in the portions of the curtain subject to the greatest exposure. ~ TABLE 6 -- Day BREAKING STRENGTH--RAVE LED STRIP METHOD' FABRICS AS PURC HASED AND LAUNDERED, m AND IN CURTAINS AFTER WBAR. A, I . Special Firush 20.9 0.1 16.3 5.5 14.0 4.3 13.8 5.0 9.9 3.5 A '.3 1.0 5.' 1.3 3.5 '.0 1; B 10.1 2.' 2.1 .., .. 6 • ••• •0 C 12.6 '.1 12.6 2.0 2.' c D 16.0 4.4 11.6 '-' '"'5.0 2.6 • 2. Special " Finish 20.3 ••• 17.8 5.' 18.3 '.5 14 .2 4.6 12.9 5.3 A 11.8 3.' ••• 2.' ••• ..6 ~ B 13.4 '.1 9.2 3.' 9.' 2.4 •n" C 14.0 '.5 .., '.9 '.0 '.3 c r D 14 .7 5.' '.2 3.0 ••• 3. Specl.al ••• ~ 18.1 17.610.3 9.3 5.2 12.4 A 13. 1 5.1 0.0 .., •> '.2 13.3 ' .5 ••• 5.' 2.' r ""'" B 12.6 5.5 10.5 ' .2 5.' 2.2 C 13.8 ••• 15.0 0.2 5.' '.2 D 15.6 U 14.7 '-' '.2 '.S "• •• Customary "0 Finish 19.3 7.0 15.0 5.' 14.8 ' .0 13.8 '.0 12.3 3.2 A 13.7 3.7 .., 1.4 '.0 0.7 < B 14.7 5.1 '.7 2.4 7.' 2.2 "Z C 16.4 5.' 13.6 3.0 9.1 3.9 ; D 16.1 5.' 17.2 '.2 12.1 ' .6 "'; 5. Customary ; Finish 21.5 12.8 16.8 13.6 11).710.7 14.5 .., 14.5 '.7 A 13.9 13.2 10.2 10.6 6.' 0 B 16.4 11.2••• 13.6 10.0 12.9 • .4 Z C 16.911.7 16.4 11.1 14.4 10.3 D 17.011.7 14.5 10.8 14.8 11.4 . strengths oorrected on basis of change In counts. 11 ,7,10 , 13, refer to times humdered. 2 Sections of curtains as follows: A-lower, B-Iower center, C-top center, D-top. 3 Wear periodS: 72 weeki, laundered "Ix; 108 weekl,lalllldc red l Ox; 144 weeks, laWKIered 13x. RESEARCH BUloLETIN 495 17 20 15 10 5 Fabric 1 20 15 10 • 5 E00 ~ Fabric 2 .0, - 20 ~" 15 ~• 10 • •0 5 •, ~ Fabric 3 -~ • -00" 20 •~ 15 ~• 10 ~" 5 Fabric 4 20 15 10 5 AP 1 Fabric 5 = Length A.P. = as purchased fabric 1,7, 10,13 refer to launderings '" Width A: lower section worn curtain = Worn Curtains Length B=next lower I W ~ = Worn Curtains Width C=next to top I ~ k D=top section n " " Fig. 3.-Dry breakIng strength of new and laundered fabrics. and of laundend curtains after wear. TABLE 7 -- WET BREAKING STRENGTH-- RAVELED STRIP METHOD· FABRICS AS PURCHASED AND :;; Special Finish 24.7 21.0 19.4 19.1 17.2 A U L9 0.0 ••• 2.' '.6 L' ~ ••• ••• ••• B ••• '.9 2.' '.3 2.' '.2 0.' ~ C 13.8 12.4 .., 2.2 2.0 0 3.' 0 D 15.0 ' .2 14.0 ••• '.0 3. ' 2. Special a •. Finish 23.3 2.0 21.0 , 19.1 18.1 '.3 17.0 5.' A 10.6 3.' ••• ' .0 '. 2 0.' a> '" B 13.S ••• 9.' 3.2 2.9 3.0 a 16.9 13.7 '.0 11 .3 3.' a c '.3 0 D 18.0 5.81 15.8 ••• 13.4 ••• 3. 5,."... ~" FInish 22.'1 '.5 20.5 1l.0 IS.B '.0 19.5 ••• 15.2 2.' A 12.2 4.2 '.0 L5 5.' L2 • B 14.0 5. ' •••2.7 5.' ... • C 18.0 B.4 11.9 '.2 7.' 3.4 " D 18.0 B.6 15.4 '.3 .., '.2 "•"' •• Customary " Finish 2.1.' '.0 22.6 7.0 20.0 B.B 19.8 2.' 16.8 ••• A 11. 3 2.0 5.' 0.' 3.' 0.2 • B 12.2 3.' 9.5 3.• ••• >.7 • C 1'1.6 '.0 12.'1 ' .5 .., ,., " D IS. 7 '.0 15.S 4.' 10.S 4.0 U>" •• Customary •" Finish 23.S 13.0 23.1 10.1 21.'110.1 21.8 9.5 16.'1 10.3 A U .6 2.2 12.0 7.' 10.0 ••• B 14.3 10.3 14.3 ••• 13.2 ' .0 0" C 16.8 12.3 17.2 11.6 16.4 '.5 " D 19.4 12.4 16.2 ••• 17.3 ••• ·Strengths corrected on basis of change In counts. 11,1,1 0, 13, reJer to times laundered 2seCUOM of curtains asfollows; A-lower, B-lower cenler, C-Iop center, D-top. 3Wear periodS; 72 weeki, laundered 7I; 108 weeks, laundered lOx; 144 weeks, laundered 13". RES!:AIICH BULUTIN 49' J9 25 Fabric 1 20 15 10, Fabric 2 20 15 10 .. 5 -•" Fabric 3 • 20 " • 15 - 10 "~ 5 •• • &, Fabric 4 20 •to • 15 " 10 ,"~ 5 • • Fabric 5 •" 20 15 10 5 A.P ... as purchased fabric -,, 1,7,10,13 refer to launderings . Wldth A.].ower section worn curtain _Worn CurtainS Length B. nelrt lower • " " C ..nexl to top " • • _Worn Curtains Width Dztop section ~ • " Fia:. 4.- Wet breaklna: . ~a:th of new and laundered fabrics and of laWldered curtailu alter wear. ' 20 MISSOURI ACRICULTURAl. EXPERIMENT STATION SUIUInARY AND CONCLUSIONS Three cotton marquisettes with spedal finishes and two with ordinary finishes were made into curtains and put into service. They were rotated to three exposures during their use. Their serviceability was compared after 72, 108 and 144 weeks exposure with similar fabrics which were laundered the same number of times but not used. All of the fabrics were of lena construction; four of them were poorly balanced in count with almost twice as many warps as fillings. This study as well as others indicated that many cotton marquisettes are poorly bal anced. One of the marquisettes had a much higher filling count due to the grouping of three filling yams together. This fabric proved to be the most superior in wearing quality. It was the only fabric that was not worn out at the end of the experiment. It would seem that if a better bal anced strength could be obtained from either a better balanced count or making more superior filling yarns, much longer service could be expect ed from most cotton marquisettes. Since that part of the curtain just above the window sill lost the most strength during use, homemakers might expect longer service from their curtains if they made sill length curtains so that the top and bottom could be reversed. In this study there seemed to be no evidence that speeial finishes noticeably affected wear. The curtains with special finishes were more dimensionally stable than those without but not to a satisfactory degree. Length shrinkages were not as great as width shrinkages in any of the curtains. This is important since most of the alterations for measure ments in curtains need to be made in the warp direction although exces sive width shrinkage can also be a problem. Laundering the fabrics be fore making them into curtains eliminates from one-fifth to one-half of the total length shrinkage. If homemakers laundered curtain fabrics be fore making them up, they might possibly eliminate any very decided length alterations. Less definite effects were noted concerning the amount and durabil ity of crispness as related to finish than those effeets related to shrinkage. II. EFFECTS OF LAUNDERING ON I\IARQUISETrES WITH VARIED FINISHES The experimental work in the first section of this bulletin is con cerned with the effects of wear and laundering upon cotton marquisettes with and without special finishes. This study is concerned with the ef fects of laundering alone on marquisettes of cotton, rayon and nylon with special finishes. In the case of the nylon this is not wholly true since only two of the fabrics were sold as having special finishes but nylon itself is a RuUflCH BULLETIN 495 21 resinous fiber and is heat set in its finishing. Results are accomplished which may contribute some of the same qualities as result from resin fin ishing of cottons and rayons. The type: of special finish was given for the fabrics. Often such statements as "maximum shrinkage," "starching not necessary". were given. With the exception of one rayon which was purchased as yard goods, all fabrics were bought in the form of panels. Preparation of Test Fabrics.--Six cotton, five rayon and five nylon fabrics were us£d. They were obtained in various large department stores in the midwest. Since many of the attached labels gave washing in_ structions recommending hand laundering procedures, and since the laundering procedure for all the fabrics would need to be the same to keep results comparable. a hand washing method was worked out which seemed satisfactory to all. It was a ten minute hand wash in water about 100°F . using a neutral soap to form the suds. Two warm rinses followed. The fabrics were rolled in a towel to remove excess moisture, then hung on a clothes rack until dry enough to iron. An automatic hand iron was used with the dial control set for the fabric to be ironed. The nylons were ironed at rayon temperature. The fabrics were laundered a total of twenty times. They were tested for crispness, thread count, weight, wet and dry breaking strength. as pun;:hased and after 1, 2, 3. 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, and 20 launderings. Additional measurements of yarn twists, fiber content of the rayons and analysis of the finishes were made on the new fabrics. ShrinkaRe was also measured on the laundered fa brics. Testing Procedure The same procedures as outlined in the previous study for determin ing yarn twists, yarn count. weight, crispness and breakinR strength were used here. The methods used for the qualitative and quantitative deter· minations of sizing were taken from ASTM ' and AATCC ~. RESULTS The Panels As Purchased A comparison of the "as purchased" fabrics shows the prices of the cotton and rayon fabrics to be in approximately the same price range and cheaper than the nylons altho there was one co tton and one rayon fabric as expensive as the two cheaper nylons (Table 8) . The yarn twists were generally higher in the cotton fabrics than in the rayons and nylons which were in approximately the same range. The yatn counts, warpwise, showed approximately the same range In each group of fabrics and were higher than the counts of the corre·· sponding fabrics fillingwise. In the nylons, the warp and filling counts wete hil/!her than those found in the cottons and rayons and more nearly equal. 22 MlssoulU ACIUCULTURAL Exrl:IUML.... T STATION "! "!"! ... "! ,,- ... ., "" "! --_~:;;! .. :;J:t;; ';I. :J:::; :; 1i :: .,,,,":to. "! "!"! "I"! "0-."'I;"!"!__ _ "!_ ...... ----.. ::: llnl :l fI ...... , <>: "! "': "! ::-_"'t "'! ... "" "! ::~; ~;;;:;;;; ...... oioi ...... '" ~:::!: ;:!::: :Ii :hi iii - - - .. "' ...... "'!"!":"!"! : oioioi :!~:! ... !: ;;;;; -:i~:-- ~i;;~ ii;~~ "! "! "l ft. "!"!"!""-: "'!"!"'!"!"'l I'!:! ; a ~2li1:: !: x:;;:;;:;: = ---::::;S!~- ~~:!;~r;:---_.. ~~O!_ __ ••00 ' ??000.,.~ i ~ : ..,,:...... : .. "'!"':"! ... ., "! "! "! "! "! :;:;;;;:1 :;iaUi:;; ... .. fffee ..~~~~~ -- .... _• ...... ! 1"1 - > lU:sEARCH BULLETIN 495 23 The rayon fabrics were the heaviest and the nylons the lightest in weight. Crispness fluctuated greatly within the fabric groups with perhaps crisper fabrics in the cotton group. The nylon fabrics were the strongest fabrics both warpwise and fill ingwise. The dry warp and filling strengths of the rayon." were more nearly equal than the warp and filling strengths of the cottons. The warp strengths of the cottons were higher and the filling strengths were lower than those of the rayons. Wet strengths of the nylon fabrics were slightly less than the dry strengths; wet strengths of the rayon fabrics were decidedly less than the dry strengths and wet strengths of the cottons were approximately the same fillingwise and higher warpwise than the dry strengths. Summarbting this data by groups it might be said that the cottons were slightly the cheapest with highly twisted yams, rather poorly bal anced yarn count and breaking strength; they were about average in weight; they varied the most in crispness, and were low and poorly bal anced in breaking strength. The rayons are not too different from the cottons in price. Their yarns were lower in twist, and rather poorly bal anced in count. With one exception they were not very crisp. They are the heaviest fabrics. They were much weaker in wet strength than dry. The nylon fabrics cost the most, weighed the least, had higher and better balanced counts and breaking strengths; their range in crispness was similar to the rayons. Laundered Panels Shrinka,e after the first laundering was greater that that produced by any other one laundering, and increased slightly with progressive launderings, for all fabrics. (Table 9 and Fig. 5) . In the cottons, the width shrinkage far exceeded the length, and ranged between seven and nine per cent in total amount. The shrinkage in the rayons was often about the same in length and width up until the eighth laundering when three of the rayons began to show greater length than width changes. The total shrinkage of the rayons was as high as, or higher than that found in the cottons. The dimensions of the nylons were better stabilized than in the other fabrics; shrinkage changes in length and width were more nearly the same and ranged from less than 1.6 to less than 3.9 per cent. Similar relationships existed between changes in yarn counts, weight and shrinkage, with the nylons showing the least changes for each. Yarn counts increased in all fabrics during laundering. (T TABLE 9 •• SHRINKACE (EXPRESSED TN PERCENTAGES) TIMES L AUNDERED I , ! , , , il! Iii '0 __ rul _~rul _ ~~[[_~fi".~ru ' _~rnl_rul_rnl_~rnl ..: % -• Cotton % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % •0 I 1.61 ~.S32.09 6.59 2.20 '1.50 3.45 7.98 2.75 9.08 2.95 7.61 3.59 9.36 3.47 8.81 4.03 8.92 < 2 2.09 5.34 2.42 '5.45 2.94 7.06 3.11 7.81 4.17 9.95 3.75 8.50 4.97 10.39 5.31 9.14 5.89 8.45 , 1.50 7.06 2.09 7.17 2.53 7.97 2.78 8.20 3.70 9.31 3.28 7.39 3.87 8.91 4.08 8.00 4.67 7.28 •> 4 2.09 3. 11 2.20 3.23 2.42 4.50 2.81 4.86 3.31 5.78 3.00 5.20 3.81 7.28 4.03 7.28 4.39 7.53 0 , 2.06 4.2.8 2.53 4.87 2.78 5.56 2.67 5.73 4.06 7.06 3.25 5.36 4.45 9.00 4.62 7.97 5.20 '.20 0 1.61 6,50 2.17 6.37 2.67 7.67 2.84 8.31 3.28 8.45 3.33 8.03 3.7'5 8.42 4.06 8.34 4.39 7.97 0• • ~ 0 Rayon • I 4.51 3.89 4.84 5.04 5.58 6.36 5.62 6.'53 5,95 5.57 5.23 5.52 8.48 8.83 9.62 9.41 7.98 '1.84 • 4.97 2 5.40 5.44 5.15 5. 19 6.64 6.88 7.48 7.80 7.89 6.63 7.31 6.2210,38 7.49 12.19 8,88 10,91 "~ , 5.59 4.75 4.17 4. 17 8.83 6.95 5.73 5.76 6.08 5.89 5.89 5.45 9.50 8.45 10.86 7.95 9.59 5.89 , 4 2.32 2.78 2.79 2.05 4.10 3.36 4.58 3.58 4.85 3.10 4.82 2.63 6.21 2.86 8.59 4.05 7.89 2.83 • , 2.67 3.87 2.67 3.29 4.23 4.79 3.00 4.89 3.42 4.56 2.53 3,98 5.67 6.60 8.59 9.39 8.40 8.05 •" -• Nylon ~ I 1.84 1.39 1.84 1.84 2.31 2.17 2.62 2.73 2.73 2.89 2.53 2.56 3.00 3.00 3.59 3.47 3.45 3.86 • 2 1. 50 1.06 1.95 1.39 2.17 1.39 2.61 1.73 2.61 1.45 2.67 1.39 2.78 1.50 3.44 1.50 3.58 1.39 "'~ 3 1.96 0.69 1.95 1.39 2.42 1.73 2.73 2.14 2.67 2.19 2.56 1.67 2.89 2.20 3.22 2.09 2.88 3.11 ; 4 1.22 1.39 1.22 1.39 1.66 1.39 2.02 1.67 2.37 1.89 1.88' 1.39 2.59 1.50 2.59 1.73 3.15 1.97 0 • 1.28 0.38 1.37 1.39 1.73 0.92 1.96 1.73 2.23 1.50 1.90 1.17 2.40 1.50 2.08 2.2Q 3.l2 1.61 • RESEAIICH BULLETIN 495 25 t• - - ~, •• ~• •~ j • • ~ ••0 e ~• ~ ••~ ..,• • ~ <• 1• <.. -Q N -~ N ~- ~ ~S - 8- • N ~~0 - - ..." 0 0- -Q 0 Q -0 Q- OQ -0 -Q. Q 0- Q-- • Q 0 -Q OQ oQ-- OQ aDYXNlllHS .LN:il OY:ild ~ s: •" Cotton ~ 1 52.8 27.4 54.8 27.0 54.0 27.6 56.6 27.6 55.6 27.6 55.6 27.8 55:6 28.0 55.2 28.2 54.0 27.8 55.2 27.4 C 2 50.8 28.4 53.6 29.2 52.4 29.0 53.6 28.4 52.8 30.2 54.0 28.4 55.6 29.6 52.8 29.8 55.6 30.0 54.0 30.2 •" 3 54.4 28.4 58.0 28.8 56.4 29.4 58.& 29.8 59.6 30.0 58.0 28.8 57.6 29.0 58.4 29.2 58.4 29.8 57.2 29.4 ~ 0 4 50,0 26.7 50 .8 27,0 52.0 27.4 52.4 :17.4 52.0 27.6 53.6 28.0 52.0 27.0 53.6 27.2 53.2 27.6 53.6 28.0 • 5 59.6 31.2 60.8 32.0 64.0 32.5 64.0 32.2 64.0 32.4 85.6 33.0 64.4 32.0 66,0 32.8 66.0 32.6 65.2 33.0 "0 C , 50.4. 30.2 53.6 30.2 52.6 30:6 54.8 31.2 56.8 31.0 54.8 31.0 56.0 30.8 54.4 31.2 54.4 30.6 54.4 31.0 0 Rayon "C 1 48.0 32.2 50.0 33.4 49.6 33.8 50.4 34.0 50.0 33.8 50.4 33.6 50.0 33.2 51.6 34.6 52.6 34.8 51.6 ~5-.0•> 0 , 452M'~~~2~OM'~'U'~'U04'OMa41'M'~O~4 ".'.O%.' •. ' 3 46.0 31.2 48.4 33.4 48.0 33.0 50.0 33.0 49.2 33.0 49.6 33.0 48.4 33.2 48.8 34.2 50.8 35.0 49.6 34.4 ~ • 54.8 31.2 56.0 32.0 55.2 32.6 56.0 33.0 56.0 33.0 56.0 33,4 56.0 33.6 55.6 33.6 56.8 34.6 56.0 35.2 X 5 58.0 32.8 58.4 34.0 59.2 33.8 60.0 34.2 59.6 34.2 58.8 34.4 60.8 34.0 60.8 34.6 62.4 35.8 61.6 35.4 ~ Nylon " 1 58.0 51.8 58.0 52.0 58.8 52.2 58.8 52.2 58.0 52.8 58.4 52.4 58.8 52.8 58.8 53.0 59.6 53.0 59.6 52.8 •" 2 49.2 32.0 50.0 32.6 49.2 32.4 50.0 32.8 50.0 32.2 50.0 32.6 50.0 33.0 50.0 33.0 50.0 33.0 50.0 33,0 '" 3 48.4 33.8 49.2 34.0 49.2 34.0 50.0 34.0 50.0 34.2 50.0 34.0 49.6 34.0 50.0 34.6 50.0 34.2 50.0 34.8 U>" 57.8 41.0 58.0 41.0 58.0 41.2 58.0 41.2 58.0 41.2 58.0 41.6 58.0 41.0 58.0 41.6 58.0 41.2 58.0 41.8 •5 57.6 41.4 57.6 41.6 58.0 41.6 58.0 42.0 58.0 41.8 58.0 42.0 58.8 42.0 58.0 41.8 58.0 42.0 58.0 42.0 •" "0 •" R!:Sl:,uCH B ULLETIN 495 27 the cottons. The increases in the warp and filling counts of the nylons were low, and approximately the same in both warp and filling. We.i,hts, after laundering, increased about the same in the cottons and rayons and less than in the nylons. (See Table 11.) TABLE 11 -- WEIGHTS BEFORE AND AFTER LAUNDERING" 'riDlu Laundered Fabrics Purch.'" 1 2 3 6 8 20 C('Itton • " " 1 1.29 1.47 1.43 1.~1 1.46 1.52 1.48 1.57 I.53 1.58 2 1.30 1.39 1.41 1.44 l.42 1.48 1.50 1.55 1.46 1.60 , 1.14 1.31 1.29 1.31 1.31 1.34 1.3 1 Uti 1.35 1.35 1.24 1.32 1.33 1.36 1.34 l.36 1.38 1.45 1.43 1.47 •, 1.21 1.30 1.31 1.32 1.36 1.38 1.41 1.43 l.44 1.42 6 1.30 1.45 1.47 1.49 1.52 1.53 l.46 1.54 1.50 1.57 Rayon 1 1.78 1.98 1.99 1.98 2.01 2.05 2.02 2.22 2.23 1.22 2 1.49 1.72 l.71 1.7~ 1.80 1.74 1.82 1.88 1.97 1.84 , 1.75 1.99 l.89 1.99 1.98 2.00 1.98 2.06 2.23 2.11 1.4. 1.57 1.59 1.62 1.83 1.84 1.85 1.69 1.75 1.79 •, 2.07 2.18 2.22 2.27 2.25 2.28 2.29 2.32 2.47 2.46 Nylon 1 1.12 1.18 1.18 1.20 1.19 1.22 1.21 1.23 1.19 1.23 2 1.21 1.25 1.25 1.27 1.27 I." 1.27 1.32 1.28 1.31 , 1.21 1.27 1.25 1.28 1.2t1 UO 1.29 1.34 1.28 1.33 0.99 1.02 1.01 1.0< 1.03 1.05 1.0< 1." 1.0< 1." ,• 0 .99 1.04 1.03 1.0< 1.03 1.06 1.0< 1.07 1.0< 1.06 . In ounces per squiI,re yard Crispness studies showed that usually greater degrees occurred after the first laundering than after any other one laundering. (See Table 12 and Fig. 6.) In all of the rayons and in most of the nylons there was little change after one laundering. Three of the cottons were very crisp when new; they were also the most crisp after twenty launderings, although their crispness progressive ly decreased. Most of the rayon and nylon fabrics had little crispness when new although one rayon and one new nylon were very crisp. The crispness of a fabric might be due to many factors, such as the amount and kind of finishing materials as well as the type of calendering or pressing process. Because of these varying possibilities in crispness it is impossible to determine definitely how well the crispness of a new fabric will be retained after laundering. However the results in this study would seem to indicate that if a consumer desired a stiffer type of marquisette, she would have a better chance of obtaining her desire if she selected a cotton, than either rayon and nylon. In this study as well as in the first study, the amount of soluble finishing materials present in the new fabric, was no indication as to the loss in crispness. 28 MISSOURl AGRIC ULTURAL EXP~R IM]!: NT STATION - - "••2 ",0 • • •• ~• .•5 ,~, ! I i , • •0 - • .," :t , ;! , • • • - • • • • ,• , • • • • • ! • • 1• , • • , • • , • • , • • , • , , • • , • ...... ~ ,...... Rl:SEMtCH BuLLrl'IN 495 29 52.3 38.9 40.0 87.1 35.8 3d :8.3 30.'1 24.0 20.4 2 24.4 18.6 13.0 10.2 13.3 10.3 21.3 11 .1 13.3 11.9 , 70.6 54.6 38.7 45.5 38.8 34.3 35.4 3i.6 30.3 81.2 16.3 13.2 12.3 12.7 12.9 13.2 16.5 16.6 13.3 12.2 •5 41 .8 22.9 14.7 17.6 17.1 15.7 19.9 15.2 14 .1 12 .9 6 85.3 84.3 54.4 61.6 4'1 .8 38.8 45.3 39.5 37.'1 82 .7 "'Y" 1 15.2 10.8 13.8 12.4 18.0 13.0 14.0 14.5 11 .8 13.3 2 20.8 11.5 9.7 10.4 .. , '.0 ,., 9.7 '.7 , 30.9 11.5 12.0 11.3 13.1 13.0 14.9 10.3••• 11.3 10.3 4 52.8 11.0 g., .. , 9.3 7.7 10.5 7.3 5.5 5.' 5 17.4 13.3 12.0 11.4 11 .8 16.2 15.3 11 .8 ,., 10.1 Nylon 1 30.8 12.8 11 .5 7.9 g.• 7.7 '.0 .. , 5.0 , 57.5 32.1 33.2 23.2 24.0 25.5 23.1••• 16.3 20.3 15.4 • 37.5 6.6 g., 6.4 '.5 7.7 g .• ••• 10.3 10.8 • 20.8 19.8 19 .1 15.3 11.5 10.3 13.0 '.7 ,.. '.6 5 12.1 '.6 '.6 '.1 ••• '.7 6.5 6.6 5.3 '.3 *Angle of crispness as measu.red by the Crispollleter . The strengths of the cottons were decidedly less fillingwise than warpwise. (See Tables 13, 14 and Fig. 7, 8.) Strength losses after 20 launderings were not pronounced in any of the dry tested fabrics; in one, the strength after 20 launderings was higher. More frequently the wet warp strengths were higher than their corresponding dry strengths; fill. ingwise there seemed to be less pronounced differences in the wet and dry strengths. The strengths warpwise and fillingwise were more nearly the same in the rayons with the filling strengths of the rayons higher than the fill· ingwise strength of the cottons. The wet strengths, in both directions, were noticeably less than the dry strengths in these fabrics. Greater decreases resulting from repeated launderings were not noticeable in the wet tested rayons; in the dry tested rayons the warpwise strengths were usually greater after laundering than when the fabrics were new. The high shrinkage recorded for the rayons likely explain the greater strenath values after laundering. The warpwise and fillingwise strengths of the nylons were better balanced than the cottons and much higher than for either ihe cottons or rayons. The dry warpwise strengths were generallY about twice as high and the dry fillingwise strength, three to six times higher than the dry fillingwise strengths of the cottons. The wet strenaths of the nylons were less than the dry strengths but these differences were not nearly as notice able as the differences between the wet and dry strengths of the rayons.· ~ Q • "~ 0 0, Cotton • 1 25.7 7.0 23.3 4.1 21.5 4.7 20.7 5.3 20.'1 5.2 23.6 '.2 23.1 4.8 23.7 5.6 22.4 4.7 21.2 '.3 > 2 22.5 9.0 19.1 4.4. 18.1 6.1 17.3 6.2 20.3 5.0 16A ,.. 17.0 6.2 16.3 ,.. 16.2 ••• 16.7 ,.. n 18.9 11.5 15.3 5.'1 18.2 7.2 17.9 • .4 16.1 7.1 19.0 7.4 15.8 6.9 16 .6 7.1 18.6 7.3 H.4 , 3 '.3 n 20.5 8.3 15.5 3.7 18.7 '.9 14.'1 5.7 19.8 5.2 16.0 ••• 17.1 5.1 15.8 4.7 16.3 5.0 16.1 5.1 0 •5 17.8 8,3 17.3 '.1 18,1 5.3 16.9 4.7 18.8 4.7 17.1 '.2 17.9 5:1 16.4 3.8 16.'1 4.8 16.5 '.7 n 14.3 8 .3 14.9 6.9 16.4- 6.7 15.4 7,7 15.6 7.8· 15.9 '.0 17.5 6,2 15.7 8.5 18.8 6.1 17.9 7.' 0," Rayon• > 1 l7.6 16.5 21.9 13.2 22.7 13.4 22.9 14.2 23.3 14.3 21.3 15.6 21.6 14.3 20.5 13.6 18.2 13.2 19.8 13.6 n 2 14.2 10.8 16.5 11.5 18.6 10.5 18.6 10.1 19.1 11.2 17.7 11.0 17.9 11.9 17.1 10.1 16.5 10.7 18.5 10.8 ,~ 3 19.4 16.7 22.6 17.8 22.2 17.3 24.4 17.3 23.7 17.8 22.0 16.5 20.6 H.5 22.9 16.2 21.1 15.9 22.1 16.3 • 14.8 '1.3 12.9 5.' 6.0 12.5 5.7 13.4 5.' 12.5 5.1 12.0 5.1 12.1 ,5.4 11.3 5.2 11.9 ',1 •" •, 21.3 17.0 29.1 17.3 28.5••• 17.6 29.0 17.6 27.7 17.5 26.5 16.6 27.5 16.8 26.9 15.5 24.1 15.3 26.6 15.6 • Nylon •"Z 1 40.8 38.5 40.6 28.1 40.7 34.0 38.3 32.0 42.1 31.7 39.5 31.9 35.3 26.3 39.7 34.9 39.0 34.5 39.3 32.7 , 54.8 38.7 43.7 34.2 44.1 32.4 46.5 31.9 42.6 28.0 42.1 27.8 36.5 23.3 46.4 29.3 40.2 21.3 42.1 24.5 !\'" 3 54.2 39.8 48.0 32.7 45.6 31.8 42.6 30.6 38.5 29.2 44.5 29.0 37.4 24.7 43.11 28.5 43.2 26.5 43.9 28.2 > ~332'32'~'U'U.4U.n730'U'U"5.4_1'50 • . '2"UO"'U"25 "•0 •5 37.3 30.0 33.2 24.6 29. 1 22.7 32.4 21.5 30.8 20.6 32.0 21.3 27. 1 17.4 34.1 24.8 28.7 21.6 29.4 25.8 z 1 27.0 7 ,0 25.1 5.8 22.1 4.5 21.7 3.8 21.5 3.7 22.7 4.9 22 .... 4.1 23.2 5.1 23.8 4.9 18.8 5.0 2 28.' 9.0 23.7 5.2 21.3 4 .9 17,8 5.5 19.0 4.4 HI.6 4.2 17.8 4.0 11 .9 5.2 20.S 5. 1 15. 1 .., 3 30.3 10.8 19.9 8.4 21.7 7.8 18.1 8.9 20.4 6.4 21.4 7.1 19.9 7.3 22.0 6.4 21.7 .., 18.7 7.0 2207 8.0 19.1 IU 15.6 17.4 4 .8 18.4 6.5 17.5 3.8 18.3 3.5 15.9 5.0' 20.4 4.8 15.5 3.5 •" • 4I.'.3 18,3 '" 5 25.3 7.8 23.5 5.6 17.7 5:0 19.2 '.3 11.8 '.1 17.9 •••19.0 4.7 20.2 4.7 17.0 3.1 "> 6 30.8 8.3 22.9 8.5 17.8 '1.8 20.4 8.8 21.6 6. 1 18.1 6.'1 20.6 5.8 16.5 8.1 21.5 '. 1 11.4 ••• ~ Rayon • 1 10.1 5.3 10.3 7.' '.0 • . 1 7.' '.3 '.8 7.' '.3 ' .0 •• '. 1 ••• ••• •7•.0• ••• •3.9•• 3.8 •.. ••• < 2 '. 2 •. 0 7.0 ••• '.7 '.7 7.' 3.7 '. 1 '.7 7.2 '. 1 '.2 ••• , '.3 2.5 '" 3 14.8 9.6 11 .7 7.' 10.6 8.3 10.4 8.6 1l.7 7.8 1l.4 7.6 11.2 '1.6 12.6 7.8 11.7 '.3 '.3 E •••2.0 3.2 '.0 3.7 ••• 2.7 '.7 2.6 5.7 2.' 5.' 2.' '.2 2.6 ••• 2.' •• I.. ••• 1.0 " •5 13.0 ' .7 12.4 6.4 lU . 4.8 12.5 5.9 13.1 ' .8 11.3 4.8 11.•8 '.0 10.6 '. 1 10.4 2.1 - ••• ••• •~ Nylon ~ 1 38.6 27.7 32.8 23.1 32.1 21.0 21.5 22.7 37.8 26.4 33.6 31.9 32.1 23.3 35.1 29.7 35.9 27.9 29.1 17.1 ~ 2 35.3 30.7 31.7 25.8 31.8 21.9 28.5 19.3 45.5 29.6 44.4 27.2 31.0 19.2 39.2 26.5 39.4 24.3 27.7 !B.O 3 44 .9 34.4 32.0 22.5 31.4 21.8 30.9 19. 1 43.4 30.0 43:6 26.3 29.1 23.1 39.5 29.1 43.2 25.0 2U 22.0 34.8 27.7 27.4 24.3 27.9 21.7 24.7 21.9 34.1 25.2 33 .0 23.0 24.6 18.1 33.1 23.0 29.1 23.3 24.3 17.1 •5 34.5 23.6 29.9 16.7 30.6 15.6 24.7 19.4 31.1 23.6 31.6 23.7 24.3 15.7 32.6 24.0 24.9 19 .0 24.l 20.5 w ~ 32 MIssou RI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION " ,.-• • w.. , • _u .. . .. • • • • " • • • • • " .'j I " .:. I. I • , ! » • • ,'.\". •.i ,. • • " • • " • • • " • •.. • Fl,. 7.-Dry breaking strength-- of curtains after launderings. R ESEARCH BULLETlN 495 33 • ..,. .... o. ,..,"'" AP . A • ....,...... • • " " " • " " • • • • •< " !, .." I • " • • • I " •I" • ...0 • " • • • " " " " • • " " .." • Fig. S.-Wet breaking slrenorth of curtains after launderings. 34 MIssouRI AGRICULTURAL E:X:PUUlENT S TATION The wet strengths of the nylons alter 20 launderings were more notice ahly lower than the dry strength after the same number 01 launderings. Summarizing the results. it might be said that the decidedly lower filHngwise than warpwise strength values on the cotton marquisettes and the decidedly lower wet than dry strength values in the rayons are quali ties which, if improved upon, might be of decided advantage in these fabrics. Although in the new fabrics, the cotton marquisettes had higher num bers of twists per inch than the rayons or nylons, these fabrics had fewer filling yarns to the inch than the rayons and noticeably fewer than the nylons. The rayon and nylons were also multifilament as contrasted to the single ply cottons. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS Cotton, rayon and nylon fabrics with special finishes were liven a series of similar launderings and compared for their changes in physical properties. Shrinkages found in the cotton marquisettes in this study were sim ilar to those found in the marquisettes with spec::ial finishes in Study I. Generally, they were less than those found in the rayons and more than those found in the nylons. With the possible exception of the nylons, the shrinkages were high enough to necessitate changes in the dimensions of the curtains during their period of usefulness. The same poorly balanced strength was noted in the cotton curtains in this study as found in Study I. The nylons were much higher in strength than the cottons and rayons. The nylons and the rayons were better bal anced in strength than the cottons. Generally, the strengths of all fabrics decreased slightly during the series of launderings. The very inferior wet strengths of the rayon mar quisettes is a factor worthy of consideration since this fault would necessi tate extreme care in the handling of these fabrics during launderings. Since most of the rayons were not well stabilized dimentionally they would almost need to be put on stretchen to dry and this procedure would require extreme care lest yarn breakage result. This study indicated that if a consumer desires a crisp fabric, a cotton I1'dght be better choice than either a rayon or nylon. No definite recom mendation could be made in relation to the retention of the stiffness. On the whole, the nylons in this study were the most costly group. However, they were superior in dimentional stability and breaking strength. It mwt be remembered that wear resulting from light and at mosphere was not measured in this study and as Study I indicates, these are very important factors. RUl:ARCH B ULLETu.- 495 35 BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. American Associ.tion of Textile Chemiltl and Colon.tI, 19019. A.... r'elcol Mfihocb fl)r .. TUlil. Lo.bonIlory. Lowell Textile Instilute, Low.!!. Mass. 2. A.S.T.M. Committee Dil on Textile Material.. 19S0 A.S.T.M. St4""a,..q on T ,%_ Iii, MOI.rlol•. Americ.n Soclely far Teuln, Materi.ls. Philadelphia. 3. Fletcher. H. M .• Hensley, M. L., and Glllillm. J. F. E!Jecu of L4und.rI?lg 0 .. S;Z. ""d Sha~ of She~ Window CI