c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 4

1 The Best of & Delaware

I’ve always lived in Maryland and never wanted to live anywhere else. Delaware is the tiny gem of a state right next door. In either state it’s easy to find fascinating places to visit: from historic sites dat- ing back to the first settlements in the New World to high-tech attractions; good eating, from fresh seafood at local diners to fine dining; great natural beauty and lots of outdoor activity, from the ocean to the bay to the mountains. The regions covered in this book can make a great day trip, weekend, or full vacation. A tourist at heart, I’ve spent my whole life visiting places around my state and its next-door neighbor. I found myself awed at the horror of Antietam, delighted by the idiosyncratic home of American Red Cross founder Clara Bar- ton, and invigorated by paddling a canoe down a creek off the Patapsco River. I can’t wait for you to see the places I’ve always loved: the beautiful, hidden Cunningham Falls; the views from the rolling Appalachian Mountains; the friendly streets of Baltimore; and the bars and restaurants in Annapolis. Don’t be fooled by Delaware’s size. Billing itself as the “Small Wonder,” its coast is famous for laid-back beach resorts. The state is also a major destination for NASCAR and slots fans. It has an extraordinary number of finely preserved turn-of-the-last-century mansions, and a compact, cultured metropolis in Wilmington. These two states have been touched by revolution, civil war, and world wars, and the people here don’t forget. You can see places where George Washington stood, where brothers died, and where slaves ran for freedom. You can see silent monuments to those who defended the country in 1812, 1917, and 1945. These states love the water that laps their shores. The Atlantic Ocean, the Chesapeake Bay, the rivers winding through valleys and mountains have given the people places to work, to play, and to stop and take in the beauty. Bring your sense of wonder and your sense of humor. You’ll learn something, maybe. You’ll see something beautiful, of course. You’ll have fun, definitely. COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 1 Frommer’s Favorite Maryland & Delaware Experiences • The view from the Ocean City, falls, you can watch the boardwalk Maryland, Ferris Wheel: Fork light up. See chapter 9, “Maryland over the $5 for a ticket and climb & Delaware’s Atlantic Beaches.” aboard the vintage wheel. Go just • The Star-Spangled Banner at before sunset and you won’t wait Fort McHenry (Baltimore): The in line. That’s the perfect time to park rangers ask visitors to help watch the charter boats heading in with the raising and the lowering for the night and to see the sun set of the huge flag each day. The over Assawoman Bay. As darkness nooks and crannies, and views c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 5

THE BEST ACCOMMODATIONS BETS 5

keep young ones interested. Out- tea is an afternoon delight. Cup side the fort, the sprawling water- after cup of Earl Grey with scones front park is perfect for families and clotted cream, Scotch eggs, and picnics. See p. 86. and an assortment of savories and • Rafting the Yough: The Youghio- sweets are perfect in the shabby gheny River (generally just called chic dining room of this Fells the Yock) is Maryland’s great white- Point eatery. See p. 79. water river. Its churning waters race • Crabbing on the Wye River (St. through class III/IV rapids, with Michaels, Maryland): Whether names like Gap Falls, Bastard, you are wading with crab pots or Triple Drop, Meatcleaver, Lost and chicken-necking from a boat, the Found, and Backbender. The water Wye River is the place to go crab- levels are controlled by dam release, bing. See chapter 6, “Eastern so the river can be ridden almost Shore.” year-round. See chapter 8, “West- • Preakness Week (Baltimore): If ern Maryland.” you’re young and want some serious • Any Game: Maryland has partying, check out the infield. If baseball’s most beautiful stadium— you actually want to see the second at Camden Yards—and jewel in the Triple Crown, head for the best team in the world (the Ori- the grandstand. The race, held the oles, of course!). Players toss balls to third Saturday in May, concludes a kids in the stands, and the Oriole week of festivities. The party usu- Bird has been known to loft T-shirts ally starts with hot air “balloon or even (wrapped) hot dogs to the glows” in the Inner Harbor. If you fans. The many minor league teams want grandstand tickets to the are also fun and more affordable. Preakness, held at Pimlico Race See “The Best Baseball in Mary- Course (& 410/542-9400), it’s land,” later in this chapter. best to call up to a year ahead. • Going “Downy Ocean”: Head for Infield tickets are available up to the the crowded beaches of Ocean City, week before and are sold at some Maryland (with all those restau- area gas stations. See chapter 4, rants, shops, and golf courses), or to “Baltimore.” the quiet public beaches of Reho- • Off-Road Vehicle Trips on both or Bethany, Delaware. Both Assateague Island: Most people have their charms. The sand is who visit Assateague see only the white and clean; the waves can be 4- or 5-mile stretch of guarded gentle or furious (watch for the red beach and federal and state camp- warning flags). The sand crabs are ing facilities. They’ve missed the used to being dug up, and the sea best part: the 20 miles of undis- gulls will keep an eye on your turbed beaches. This part of the snacks. (Don’t give in and feed island is only accessible on foot, them. It can be pretty scary.) See by canoe or kayak, or over off- chapter 9, “Maryland & Delaware’s road vehicle trails, the fastest way Atlantic Beaches.” to get to those secluded areas. See • Tea at Bertha’s (Fells Point, Balti- “Assateague Island National more; & 410/327-5795): Bertha’s Seashore,” in chapter 9.

2 The Best Accommodations Bets • Harbor Court Hotel (Baltimore; pampered when you spend a night & 800/824-0076): It’s a treat here. Rooms are exquisitely fur- to walk in the door and you’re nished with tons of amenities, and c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MARYLAND & DELAWARE Maryland & Delaware

76 Lancaster PPENNSYLVANIAE N N S Y L V A N I A 11 Philadelphia SomersetSomerset York 70 76 ChambersburgChambersburg 81 P E N N S Y L V A N I A er 70 Riv Gettysburg are aw el Wilmington D EmmitsburgEmmitsburg FrostburgFrostburg 68 Taneytown N E W NewNew HHagerstownagerstown New Castle DDeepeep CumberlandCumberland J E R S E Y GermanyGermany Westminster CreekCreek TThurmonthurmont Havre de Grace Delaware City LakeLake WesternportWesternport 70 15 Aberdeen M A R Y L A N D Odessa OaklandOakland 81 FrederickFrederick HHarpersarpers FFerryerry Baltimore

BBrunswickrunswick Ellicott City Chestertown WWESTE S T VIRGINIAV I R G I N I A Dover WinchesterWinchester MoorefieldMoorefield DELAWARE

y a y Milford r M r Annapolis e e F Washington Denton p s a e C w FrontFront e Arlington St. Michaels Lewes L 11 RoyalRoyal Easton Rehoboth Beach Alexandria Royal Oak Tilghman Oxford Seaford Dewey Beach Bellevue Waldorf Cambridge Bethany Beach CulpeperCulpeper Church Creek Fenwick Island HarrisonburgHarrisonburg 95 Blackwater National Salisbury FredericksburgFredericksburg Solomons VVIRGINIAI R G I N I A Wildlife Refuge Ocean City 81 St. Marys StauntonStaunton City Pocomoke City CharlottesvilleCharlottesville Pt. Look Out Crisfield 11

95

V I R G I N I A

0 30 mi N 0 30 km RRichmondichmond c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 7

THE BEST ACCOMMODATIONS BETS 7

LancasterLancaster P E N N S Y L V A N I A 83 30 S PhiladelphiaPhiladelphia u sq Somerset YYorkork u Chambersburg eh a n PPENNSYLVANIAE N N S Y L V A N I A n a 95 R r iv ive er re R GGettysburgettysburg wa la 495 e WWilmingtonilmington D Emmitsburg 295 Frostburg TTaneytownaneytown NNEWE W New Hagerstown NNewew CCastleastle Deep Cumberland JJERSEYE R S E Y Germany WWestminsterestminster Creek Thurmont HHavreavre ddee GGracerace DDelawareelaware CCityity Lake Westernport 83 95 AAberdeenberdeen MMARYLANDA R Y L A N D OOdessadessa Oakland Frederick Harpers 795 13 Ferry 70 BBaltimorealtimore 301 Brunswick EEllicottllicott CCityity 695 CChestertownhestertown W E S T V I R G I N I A DDoverover Winchester 270 95 Delaware Bay Moorefield 29 97 DDELAWAREELAWARE

y a y MMilfordilford r 495 M r AAnnapolisnnapolis 404 e e F WWashingtonashington DDentonenton p s 1 a e CCape May Front 113 w 50 e AArlingtonrlington St.St. MichaelsMichaels 13 LewesLewes LewesL Ferr Royal EastonEaston RoyalRoyal OakOak RRehobothehoboth BBeacheach AAlexandrialexandria 9 95 18 TilghmanTilghman OxfordOxford SSeafordeaford DDeweyewey BBeacheach BellevueBellevue WaldorfWaldorf 1 CambridgeCambridge 26 C BBethanyethany BBeacheach h e s a FFenwickenwick IIslandsland Culpeper p ChurchChurch CreekCreek e Harrisonburg a k BlackwaterBlackwater 50 e NationalNational SalisburySalisbury Fredericksburg SolomonsSolomons B V I R G I N I A a WildlifeWildlife RRefugeefuge y OOceancean CCityity P oto ma 13 c Ri ver St.St. MarysMarys y a CityCity B e Assateague Staunton u g a Island e t PocomokePocomoke CityCity o Smith c Assateague Charlottesville in Pt.Pt. LookLook Island h C Island OutOut National CrisfieldCrisfield Seashore

Chincoteague Refuge VVIRGINIAI R G I N I A

ATLANTIC OCEAN Richmond c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MARYLAND & DELAWARE

the restaurant offers some of the • Elliott House Victorian Inn city’s best dining. See p. 66. (Grantsville, Maryland; & 800/ • Hotel du Pont (Wilmington; 272-4090): Western Maryland has & 800/441-9019): Not only is this always been a good place to get a showcase of marble, carved panel- away from it all, and the Elliott ing, and DuPont’s latest fibers, it House, a restored 1877 Victorian offers its lucky guests palatial sur- home, offers a tranquil setting in roundings, terrific amenities, and the middle of a bustling historic some of the best restaurants in site, next to the Spruce Forest Arti- town. See p. 295. san Village. Just off the highway, it’s • Tidewater Inn (Easton, Mary- nestled among the trees by the Cas- land; & 800/237-8775): This is selman River Bridge. See p. 227. Eastern Shore hospitality at its • Bluebird on the Mountain Bed best. The inn is noted for its gor- and Breakfast (Frederick, Mary- geous surroundings, careful atten- land; & 800/362-9526): Reserve tion to service, and location in the the room with the sun porch and heart of Easton, which is perfect make a beeline for the chaise for a weekend getaway or hunting longue. Or take your breakfast to trip. See p. 149. the porch and listen to the wind • Inn at Montchanin Village rustle through the enormous trees. (Montchanin, Delaware; & 800/ Hard to believe it’s less than 2 hours COWBIRD): This cluster of build- from Baltimore or Washington. A ings was once home for workers of massage therapist is only a phone the DuPont powder mills. Now call away. Just a few minutes’ drive they are charming guest rooms and away are Frederick, the Civil War suites, set in beautiful gardens, a battlefields, and views of the few miles from the du Pont homes Appalachians. See p. 205. and gardens. See p. 296. • Waterloo Country Inn (Princess • The Annapolis Inn (Annapolis, Anne, Maryland; & 410/651- Maryland; & 410/295-5200): 0883): When Theresa and Irwin This sumptuous Georgian-style Kraemer moved from Austria to house was originally the home of this 1775 Georgian manor on Thomas Jefferson’s physician in the Maryland’s Eastern Shore, their 1770s. The three-course breakfast intention was to turn it into the is served in the warm, cranberry- quintessential country inn. Their red dining room on fine china, sil- hostelry on the banks of Monie ver, and crystal. There are Jacuzzis, Creek offers seclusion, peace, and a room with its own deck, a patio tranquillity, whether you’re wander- surrounding a koi fishpond, and ing the inn grounds, canoeing the experienced, welcoming hosts. See lovely tidal creek, or biking the p. 113. back roads of Somerset County. See p. 180.

3 The Best Dining Bets • Carrol’s Creek (Annapolis, Mary- rockfish with polenta and free- land; & 410/263-8102): The range chicken with truffle-scented best views of the waterfront and mashed potatoes. The cream of Annapolis skyline are paired with crab soup is a winner. See p. 120. imaginative food. Dine indoors or • Charleston (Baltimore; & 410/ on the porch from a menu that is 332-7373): Southern cuisine takes always changing but will match center stage at this restaurant in c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 9

THE BEST VIEWS & VISTAS 9

the trendy Harbor East neighbor- Delaware’s top restaurant wows hood. Expect to be treated like diners the minute they see the royalty while the waitstaff brings impressive decor. But the real star you your micro-green salad, grilled here is the food: classic sauces, yellowfin tuna with andouille perfectly cooked meats and veg- sausage, and a perfect crème etables, and desserts prepared as brûlée. See p. 73. art. See p. 298. • Green Room (Wilmington, Delaware; & 302/594-3154):

4 The Best Affordable Dining • Harpoon Hanna’s (Fenwick are two delightful restaurants that Island, Delaware; & 800/227- go perfectly with a trip to the 0525): The food is good; the fresh museum or as trips by themselves. bread and muffins are outstand- The food at both is artfully pre- ing. For a beach restaurant, this pared and both have outdoor one is worth the trip. Set on a dining (in season) with beautiful canal, its big windows let the sun- views. See p. 83. set in. The fish is fresh, the staff • Grill Art (Baltimore; & 410/366- hardworking. And children are 2005): I’m sticking my neck out always welcome. Come early or be because this is a brand new restau- prepared for a substantial wait. rant. But its stylish bistro setting See p. 261. and inventive sandwiches, salads, • Baltimore’s museum restaurants: and brunch menu make it a great Gertrude’s (Baltimore Museum of addition to the quirky Hampden Art; & 410/889-3399) and Joy scene. And the prices make this a America Cafe (American Visionary good value. See p. 84. Arts Museum & 410/244-6500)

5 The Best Shopping Bets • Antique Row (Baltimore): In 1 See chapter 9, “Maryland & block of Howard Street a few Delaware’s Atlantic Beaches.” blocks north of downtown, serious • Downtown Annapolis: Main antiques fans can find old silver, Street and Maryland Avenue offer chandeliers, assorted porcelains, shoppers all kinds of choices in lit- and chairs of all sizes and shapes. tle shops. Tuscan kitchenware, See chapter 4, “Baltimore.” Christmas ornaments, antique mir- • Rehoboth Outlets (Rehoboth rors, and Navy sweatshirts are only Beach, Delaware): Wear comfort- a few of the items on these charm- able shoes; this is tax-free outlet ing streets. There are a few chain shopping heaven. Four centers have stores, but the best shops are locally everything from Waterford crystal owned. See chapter 5, “Maryland’s to Oshkosh overalls. There’s lots of Two Capitals: Annapolis & St. clothing and home decor outlets, as Mary’s City.” well as books, food, and other stuff.

6 The Best Views & Vistas • A Mountaintop at Wisp Ski down, take a good look. You’ll see Resort: Ride the ski lift to the top, snow-covered slopes, the vast and before you go schussing white expanse of Deep Creek Lake c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MARYLAND & DELAWARE

lined with the tracks of an occa- and down to the sea, the steepest sional snowmobile, and a sky as and most spectacular fall line rapids blue as it can be. See chapter 8, of any eastern river. See “Around “Western Maryland.” the Capital Beltway,” in chapter 5. • Severn River Scenic Overlook: • Bay Bridge: When you get to the On Route 450 outside of Annapo- middle, you get a wonderful view lis, a beautiful stone porch offers of the Chesapeake. Maryland’s stunning views of the Severn River Eastern Shore stretches down one and U.S. Naval Academy. It is also terminus, and the view of the West- now the site of a World War II ern Shore includes Annapolis south Memorial with summaries of the of the bridge and two lighthouses major battles, and obelisks bearing north of the bridge. The closest is the names of Marylanders who the Sandy Point light, and the far- gave their lives in World War II. ther one is the Baltimore light. See chapter 5, “Maryland’s Two Believe it or not, state officials are Capitals: Annapolis & St. Mary’s considering obstructing this view City.” because motorists keep slowing • Great Falls of the Potomac: On a down! sunny Sunday, the walkways are • Brandywine Valley: While the art crowded, but who cares? Just out- at the Brandywine River Museum side of Potomac, a Maryland sub- is dazzling, don’t forget to look out urb north of Washington, D.C., on the windows. The view of the river the C&O Canal, a series of walk- meandering under the canopy of ways will take you over the Great trees is peaceful, though in fall a Falls of the Potomac. Stand above riot of color. See chapter 11, “The the piles of jagged rocks as the Brandywine Valley & Historic Potomac River rushes over them New Castle.”

7 The Best Hiking • Calvert Cliffs State Park: This access to some stunning scenery. park offers trails for moderate- There are overlooks to three water- length day hiking and a wide vari- falls—Swallow Falls, Tolliver Falls, ety of wilderness scenery. The trails and the 63-foot-high, cascading wind through forests and then Muddy Creek Falls. See chapter 8, descend into a primordial tidal “Western Maryland.” marsh with grasses, waterfowl, and • Big Savage Trail: This rugged cypress trees. Most hikes include at trail extends 17 miles along the least one view of the Chesapeake ridge of Big Savage Mountain, Bay from atop the cliffs or from a passing impressive vistas along the small beach at the base of the way. A tough hike through almost marsh. See chapter 5, “Maryland’s total wilderness, it’s our choice for Two Capitals: Annapolis & St. serious backpacking in Mary- Mary’s City.” land—though closed in 2003, • Swallow Falls State Park: A great work is underway to reopen this place for families to hike in Garrett trail after severe storms in 2002 County, Maryland, this park’s and 2003. See chapter 8, “West- short trails wind through dark, ern Maryland.” peaty forest and offer relatively easy c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 11

THE BEST BIRDING & WILDLIFE WATCHING 11

8 The Best Fishing & Crabbing • Point Lookout State Park (Mary- Chesapeake Beach, has a good land): Location is everything at fleet, too. From either one, the cap- this peninsular park with the tains are glad to take you trolling or Chesapeake Bay on one side and chumming along the Western and the Potomac River on the other. Eastern Shores of the Chesapeake. Fish from the pier on the bay, or See chapter 5, “Maryland’s Two rent a boat at the camp marina. If Capitals: Annapolis & St. Mary’s they aren’t biting in the bay, stroll City.” over to the Potomac and try again. • Casselman River (fly-fishing/near See chapter 5, “Maryland’s Two Grantsville, Maryland): Cleanup Capitals: Annapolis & St. Mary’s efforts in this area have paid off. City.” The beautiful and wild Casselman • Calvert County Charter Fleets: River, once empty of fish because For charter fishing on the Chesa- of local acid mining, is now teem- peake, Calvert County south of ing with trout. Fish tales include Annapolis is the place to go. The catches of up to 40 fish a day–and small harbor of Chesapeake fishing with the bears. One thing Beach is home to the largest char- is for certain, though: The Cassel- ter fleet on the bay. With over 30 man is once again a great place to charter boats and a few headboats fish. See chapter 8, “Western of its own, Solomons, south of Maryland.”

9 The Best Birding & Wildlife Watching • Blackwater National Wildlife appear. See chapter 12, “Dover & Refuge (Maryland): The Del- Central Delaware.” marva Peninsula is dotted with • Whale- & Dolphin-Watching on wildlife refuges and protected the Mid-Atlantic: The Atlantic lands, havens for migrating water- coast of Maryland and Delaware fowl and other wildlife. Blackwater near Cape Henlopen State Park is the largest of these. During peak (Delaware) is a good place to spot migration season, you’ll see ducks, whales and dolphins. The Great tundra and mute swan, and snow Dune at Cape Henlopen is a great geese, as well as the ever-present vantage point (bring binoculars); herons, Canada geese, and osprey, there are also whale- and dolphin- and the occasional bald eagle. If watching cruises, even sea kayaking you explore the wooded areas, you with the dolphins. See chapter 9, may even catch sight of the endan- “Maryland & Delaware’s Atlantic gered Delmarva fox squirrel. See Beaches.” chapter 6, “Eastern Shore.” • Butterfly Watching at Eastern • Bombay Hook National Wildlife Neck National Wildlife Refuge: Refuge (Delaware): The largest of The trees here fill up with the col- Delaware’s wildlife refuges, Bom- orful little travelers as they make bay Hook, northeast of Dover, has their way to South America every nearly 16,000 acres of tidal marsh, fall. Tundra swan fans also await freshwater pools, and timbered the waterfowl’s arrival to this rest- swamps. You’ll see a lot of migra- ing place. The refuge’s website tory waterfowl, but after waterfowl keeps nature-lovers up to date on season, in April, May, and June, the migrating creatures’ arrival. See migrant shorebirds and songbirds chapter 6, “Eastern Shore.” c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MARYLAND & DELAWARE

10 The Best Festivals & Events • Flower Mart (Baltimore): This living rooms. Wear sneakers or 1-day festival is held the first boat shoes, and you can climb Wednesday in May, beside the aboard them all and dream. Held Washington Monument on Charles the first weekend in October. The Street. Ladies wear flower-bedecked Powerboat Show is held the fol- hats and there are plenty of flowers, lowing weekend. as well as traditional Baltimore • Waterfowl Festival (Easton; foods, including crab cakes and the & 410/822-4567; www.waterfowl yummy lemon stick. (Halve a festival.org): You’ll see paintings of lemon, stab it with a peppermint canvasbacks, herons, and Canada stick, and suck the juice through geese; decoys practical and fanciful; the candy.) and sculptures so lifelike you’ll • The Annapolis Sailboat Show want to smooth the feathers. There (Annapolis; & 410/268-8828; are sometimes even tiny sculptures www.usboat.com): Boat dealers fill worked in gold. Then for fun, stop the city dock with an array of by the duck-calling contest, held in sailboats, some spartan racing Easton the first weekend in boats and others luxurious floating November.

11 The Best Family Activities • Harbor Queen Boat Ride • Delaware History Center (Wil- (Annapolis): The kids love leaning mington): The toddlers can run up over the rail as waves hit the boat, and down the ramps, the school- and it’s a great way to see the age children can try out the inter- bay. There’s a little history lesson active exhibits, and everybody will but mostly this is a wind-in-your- get a kick out of the “Distinctly face, sun-in-your-eyes ride. See Delaware” exhibit. Grandma’s Attic chapter 5, “Maryland’s Two Capi- adds hands-on activities to the fun. tals: Annapolis & St. Mary’s City.” See p. 301.

12 The Best Camping • Janes Island State Park (Mary- forests. The 11 cabins are great land): For sunset views over the options for winter cross-country Chesapeake Bay, the campsites at skiing trips. See chapter 8, “West- this park north of Crisfield can’t be ern Maryland.” beat. Many sites sit on the water’s • Potomac–Garrett State Forest edge, offering unobstructed views (Maryland): For primitive camping and access to the canoe trail. If you in the mountains, head to this state prefer less primitive accommoda- forest in Garrett County. Nearly all tions, there are a few waterside cab- the campsites are within walking ins. See chapter 6, “Eastern Shore.” distance of one of the forest’s • New Germany State Park (Mary- mountain streams, and they’re so land): It’s small, with only 38 well- spread out, you may never know if spaced sites, but they are clean, you have camping neighbors. See well-kept, and offer easy access chapter 8, “Western Maryland.” to hiking trails, fishing spots in • Cape Henlopen State Park the park lake, and the facilities of (Delaware): Summer beach camp- several other state parks and ing is always a tenuous venture, c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 13

THE BEST PICNIC PLACES 13

with the heat, the bugs, and the running water. Within the park, sand. But the facilities at Cape you’ll find several miles of hiking Henlopen make for the best beach and biking trails, guarded beaches, camping. There are 159 wooded and great fishing. See chapter 9, sites, several with full hookups, and “Maryland & Delaware’s Atlantic all with access to bathhouses and Beaches.”

13 The Best Curiosities These are worth a look if you happen is dedicated to all prisoners of war to be in the area: as it memorializes Polish officers • The Fish That Didn’t Get Away murdered by the Soviets in 1940 (Ocean City, Maryland): At the in the Katyn Forest. south end of the boardwalk are a • Eye of Water (Brandywine Valley, couple of stuffed prize fish caught near Wilmington, Delaware): A off Ocean City. These record- tiny feature in the Longwood Gar- breakers are pretty big, but the dens, this little spot is where all stories make a stop here even more the water circulates for the 50-foot worthwhile. waterfall a few paces west of it. It • C&D Canal (Chesapeake City): sits atop 90,000 gallons of water This canal connecting the Chesa- but you’d never know it, standing peake Bay with Delaware Bay there in this little pavilion watch- draws ships from all over the ing the Eye of Water. world. In fact, more freight ton- • Delaware Coast Watchtowers: nage goes through here than These tall, lonely towers stood through the Panama and Suez sentry during World War II. Canals combined. Crews manned them 24 hours a • Katyn Monument (Baltimore): day, on the lookout for German Next to the Marriott at the Inner ships and submarines. The towers Harbor East is a golden monu- still look out to sea. You can’t go ment flashing in the sun. This 47- inside them, but you’ll spot them foot sculpture by Andrew Pitynski as you drive along the coast.

14 The Best Picnic Places • Hagerstown Park (Western Mary- park off I-83 at Shawan Road land): In the center of town, this is in the summertime. Fourth of a gem. Its Victorian styling, play- July concerts often end with fire- grounds, and swans floating on the works. Bring your picnic and blan- pond make it a great place to sit kets or buy food here. Concerts back and relax. There are concerts begin about 8pm. See chapter 4, in the summer, a small Museum of “Baltimore.” Fine Arts, and the wonderful • Quiet Waters Park (& 410/222- Hager House, built in 1739 when 1777): You can spend all day at this was America’s frontier. To get this well-designed park south of here, take the Sharpsburg Pike Annapolis. Besides plenty of North exit off I-70, turn left on places to lay out your picnic, there Wilson Boulevard, and turn right are bike and walking paths, play- on Virginia Avenue. grounds, waterfront paths, boat • Oregon Ridge Park (Baltimore): and kayak rentals, gardens, and The Baltimore Symphony Orches- occasional art exhibits. In winter, tra performs in this unassuming there’s an ice rink. c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MARYLAND & DELAWARE

• Trees of the States Arboretum: stop on the way to or from the This haven at Delaware Technical beach. Apart from the 51 trees and Community College’s George- representing the states and the Dis- town campus is a pleasant place to trict of Columbia, there’s just a

The Best Baseball in Maryland

Marylanders love baseball. The Orioles are the big league team, of course, but the state is also home to six minor league teams, two base- ball museums, and a monument to a storied slugger. The play at Oriole Park at Camden Yards. The sta- dium is easy to get to, right off I-95 to I-395 at the bottom of the ramp into town. The light rail stops here for every game. Parking in lots around the stadium is close and usually costs about $10. (Parking at the stadium goes fast.) The stadium was designed to bring spectators closer to the action, and it does. Watch out for foul balls! A promenade fol- lows the warehouse building along the outfield wall. Stop at the deck overlooking the bullpen to watch the pitchers warm up. The food is pretty good and ranges from hot dogs to Italian sausage to crab cakes. Former Oriole Boog Powell’s barbecue stand sends a cloud of smoke up over the scoreboard wall and the pit beef sandwiches are worth the wait in line. The park also offers tours that give visitors a chance to sit in the dugout and in the press box from April to September. Call & 888/848-BIRD or visit baltimore.orioles.mlb.com. An Orioles game might be a great place to bring a client (the stands are full of them), but a minor league game is the place for families. In addi- tion to lower ticket prices (less than $10) and more intimate stadiums, many stadiums have playgrounds, fireworks, and special family events. The Aberdeen Ironbirds, Maryland’s newest team, a affiliate of the Orioles, are owned by Aberdeen native Cal Ripken and his fam- ily. The stadium was an instant hit when it opened in 2002. Youth-size stadiums, including a replica of Oriole Park at Camden Yards, are in the works for the Ripken Academy. The Cal Ripken World Series came home to Aberdeen for 2003. The Oriole Park field will be home to the Cal Rip- ken League World Series. For information call & 410/297-9292 or visit www.ironbirdsbaseball.com. The , a Class AA Orioles affiliate, usually has a fireworks display after Saturday home games. The team plays in Prince George’s Stadium. For tickets, call & 301/464-4900 or visit www.baysox.com. The , of the Class A , are an Orioles affiliate, and play near Ocean City at Arthur W. Perdue Stadium in Salisbury, Maryland. For tickets, call & 888/BIRDS96 or 410/219-3112 or visit www.theshorebirds.com. The , a Class A Orioles affiliate, play at Harry Grove Stadium in Frederick, off Route 70. Current Orioles on the disabled list come here to get back into shape. The Keys draw fans from Baltimore and Washington. For tickets, call & 877/8GO-KEYS or visit www.frederick keys.com. c544705 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:57 AM Page 15

THE BEST PICNIC PLACES 15

gazebo, a pond, and a picnic area. here since 1976. For more informa- It’s a lovely place to take a break. tion and large tour groups, call Each tree is marked with its species & 302/856-5400. and state. Many have been growing

The , a Class A team of the San Francisco Giants, play at Municipal Stadium on Route 40. For tickets, call & 800/538-9967 or 301/791-6266, fax 301/791-6066, or visit www.hagerstownsuns.com. The Babe was a Yankee, but he was born in the narrow rowhouse that is now the Birthplace and Museum/Baltimore Orioles Museum. Two rooms are set up as they would have looked when he was living here. Exhibits include a wall enumerating his home runs; and mem- orabilia from his career and his days at St. Mary’s Industrial School in Bal- timore, where he learned to play the game. New exhibits recalled the days he played in Baltimore as well as “The Babe Ruth of the NFL,” the late Johnny Unitas. The Orioles and gone-but-not-forgotten Colts have their own exhibits. The Orioles’ exhibit takes visitors up to today with mementoes of various World Series, All Star games, and Hall of Famer Cal Ripken. It’s at 216 Emory St.; & 410/727-1539; fax 410/727-1652; www. baberuthmuseum.com. Admission is $6 for adults, $4 seniors, $3 ages 5 to 16. It’s open April to October daily 10am to 5pm (until 7pm on Orioles’ home game days); November to March daily 10am to 4pm. Closed Janu- ary 1, Thanksgiving Day, and December 25. From Camden Yards, follow the sidewalk from the Babe Ruth statue at the north end of the warehouse to the house 2 blocks away. The Ripken Museum pays homage to more than Cal, Jr. It’s a testament to the “Ripken Way” that took six Ripkens to professional baseball. What makes this museum interesting is not just the exhibits but the staff. They speak of the Ripkens as friends and know one or all of them personally. Some of the most interesting items are from Cal, Sr. and his brothers who played minor league ball decades ago. Every August, the Cal Ripken World Series trophy (for 12-year-old players) is on exhibit. It’s at 3 W. Bel Air Ave., Aberdeen, MD 21001; & 410/273-2525; www.ripkenmuseum. com. Admission is $3 adults, $2 seniors, $1 children 6 to 18. It’s open Memorial Day through Labor Day, Monday through Saturday, 11am to 3pm, Sunday noon to 3:30pm; from Labor Day to Memorial Day, Friday and Monday, 11am to 3pm, Sunday noon to 3:30pm and Saturday 11am to 4pm; other hours by appointment. Take I-95 north to Exit 85 for 1 Aberdeen. Turn right on Route 132 East (W. Bel Air Ave.). Go 1 ⁄2 miles. The museum is on the left. If you visit Chestertown, look for the life-size statue of Bill Nicholson next to the town hall on Cross Street. The Chestertown native was a home run king in the 1940s with the Chicago Cubs. He led the majors in home runs and RBIs in 1943 and 1944. During the 1944 season, the New York Giants intentionally walked him with the bases loaded, rather than risk a grand slam. He died in his hometown, Chestertown, in 1996.