The Guide

Beyond India’s popular Golden Triangle lies a calm desert terrain and a fairy-tale setting. Nellie Huang uncovers a mosaic of

colors in the offbeat Legacies from the region’s prosperous region of Rajasthan. past can be seen from its extravagant palaces, forts and temples – most of which are the country’s richest With mystique and elegance, Rajasthan collections of architectural marvels. has the air of a dreamy Indian princess. Backdropped by shimmering lake It captivates with the old-world appeal waters, giant sand dunes and the of its ancient cities and the energy iridescent blue sky, the region’s natural and fervor of its chaotic streets. There beauty is unparalleled. are few places quite as evocative as Rajasthan, the extensive region of What makes Rajasthan such a Northwestern India bounded by the compelling travel destination is its mystical Great Indian Desert on one sense of authenticity: women adorn end and the Aravalli mountain range on rainbow-colored saris and heavy the other. silver anklets; while local men with swaggering moustaches and bulky orange and red turbans are seen carrying milk buckets on their heads. For many, Rajasthan epitomizes India at its most exotic. 66 www.unearthingasia.com the love issue 67 The Guide

Pink Capital Our journey begins in Jaipur, the chaotic capital of Rajasthan and the most visited city in the state. Rattling Other sites worth visiting include the out of Delhi on a dusty sleeper train, largest and best-preserved observatory, my partner and I arrive in Jaipur at the Jantar Mantar - a World Heritage Site wee hours of the morning in time to packed full of insightful astronomical witness the city in a state of slumber. A We weave our way into the old walled discoveries; and the nearby Hawa moment like this is rare in Jaipur where Amidst the raucous traffic, we hail quarter of Pink City – a name given Mahal, the Palace of Wind. Its unique chaos and mayhem are just part of their a tuktuk – these three-wheelers are for good reason: its regal palaces, five-storey exterior is also akin to lifestyle. cheap, ubiquitous and supply a mild, buildings and forts are splashed in the honeycomb of the beehive with pleasurable level of risk. Watching pastel rose color, embellished with its 953 windows decorated with As the third apex of India’s ‘Golden Jaipur swirl by, I soak in an inebriating elaborate carvings. In the heart of it intricate latticework. Triangle’ alongside Delhi and Agra, mix of sounds, smells and sights. stands the emblematic City Palace, Jaipur has long been established on Deafening honks pierce through built by Jaipur’s first ruler, Maharaja History aside, Jaipur is best known for tourist itineraries. For first arrivals, my ears and screeching halts send Sawai Jai Singh II, and served as a having the best handicraft and textiles Jaipur makes an excellent introduction shudders through my body. My intrepid royal residence, even to this day. The in India on offer. Whether you’re on the to the region. As the first planned city partner asks if he can try driving the labyrinth of courtyards, royal gardens hunt for tie-dye, silk, rugs or jewelry, the in India and the capital of the royalty, tuktuk – resulting in a roar of laughter and peacock-carved gates give a jumble of bazaars scattered throughout it is home to the country’s most from our driver. Before handing over the glimpse into the past. Rising from the old walled city will not disappoint. extravagant royal monuments. Although ride, he says, “There are three things the center of the palace grounds is Tripolia Bazaar is the best market to there are not many signs of prosperity you need when you’re driving in India. the Diwan-I-Khas, a marble floored buy shimmering lac bangles, but its on the streets of Jaipur these days, Good brakes, good horn and…” he chamber that houses the world’s myriad of carpets, bags and handicraft the ancient edifices remind us of its pauses for effect, “good luck!” largest sterling silver vessels. might prove equally tempting. glorious past.

68 www.unearthingasia.com the love issue 69 The Guide

70 www.unearthingasia.com the love issue 71 The Guide

A local tells me the best way to see the old town of Jaisalmer is on foot. We meander through lanes Desert Charm lined with antique shops and jewelry For the first-time visitor, Rajasthan’s stores, constantly fending off gentle human masses and hectic traffic can persuasions from merchants, “Madam, be overwhelming, especially so in the Most cities in Rajasthan are defined come and take a look at my store!” We ride our camels past a distant tourist-trodden trails around Jaipur. by colors; Jaisalmer is no exception – We barter for beaded necklaces and oasis, over rippling sand dunes to But once you escape beyond - into the earning its title as the Golden City. It’s silver bracelets before sipping chai on a thatched hut in the middle of the remote areas of Rajasthan, it’s easy to easy to see why: in the heart of town, a rooftop cafe. In Jaisalmer, our pace dessert. “Welcome to my house!” appreciate its allure. a towering honey-colored fort rises slows down to a languid rhythm as we Mohammed says. The evening is spent from the baked desert sand, like a soak in the city’s undercurrent. hanging out with Mohammed’s children We head west towards the India- shimmering mirage. This is the world’s and observing his wife cook. After Pakistan border in search for a real oldest inhabited fort, made up of a On the outskirts of town, the golden a delicious meal of rice, dal, potato taste of Rajasthan. Etched on the mishmash of havelis (Rajasthan-style brown Thar Desert beckons. We chutney and rotis cooked on an open rim of the burnished Thar Desert is mansions), temples and an impressive embark on an overnight camel safari fire, we roll out our sleeping mats and the far-flung town of Jaisalmer. From ancient castle. The Jaisalmer castle, to experience living with a nomadic watch the sky dance before us. the distance, it looks like the middle with its 99 beautiful bastions, is built tribe. Hopping onto a jeep, we first Considered inaccessible by most of nowhere; but as I soon discover, almost entirely from yellow sandstone travel to the Bada Bagh, a series of travelers only a few decades ago, Jaisalmer is vigorously alive. Ten paces and seems to shine from within when honeycombed royal cenotaphs, and tourism had come knocking on inside the old city walls and I’m already bathing in the afternoon sun. visit the Amar Sagar temple complex Jaisalmer’s doors only in recent years. falling for its understated charisma. before meeting our guide Mohammed. While most visitors make it to the He resembles an Arabic Bedouin – a capital city of Jaipur, only the hardy scarf wrapped around his head, a full- traveler ventures as far as Jaisalmer— body tunic draped over his shoulders which is why it has retained its charm. and a weathered, tanned look to accompany it. 72 www.unearthingasia.com The Guide

FAST FACTS » RAJASTHAN

GETTING THERE Most visitors to Rajasthan start their journey in Jaipur. Air India and Kingfisher Airlines have daily departures from Delhi to Jaipur, with flight time just over one hour. Alternatively, you can choose the 5.5-hour bus journey, but buses in India are generally not punctual. Trains are better options in terms of comfort and punctuality. You can also travel direct from Delhi to Jaisalmer on the Jaisalmer Express train departing Lakeside Romance daily at 5.30pm and reaching at 11.45am Our journey culminates at the the next day. To get to Udaipur, take the impossibly romantic lakeside town Mewar Express train that departs from of Udaipur – affectionately known Delhi everyday at 7.05pm and arrives 7.20am the next day. Check out www. as the Paris of the East. Blending indianrail.gov.in for a train schedule and in with its rustic, dreamy charms, detailed information. Udaipur’s haphazard undercurrents and occasional buzz give it added Like other cities in Rajasthan, Udaipur’s GETTING AROUND Road conditions in character. old town is centered on its flamboyant Rajasthan are not ideal, buses might take City Palace. In contrast to other longer than expected to arrive at your Udaipur is a confection of white havelis palaces in the region, this one has the destination due to traffic and potholes. and pale yellow palaces studded with grandest gates, biggest courtyards and To get from one city to the next, the best turrets, cupolas and latticed balconies plushest furnishings. Mural paintings option is to take the train. In Jaipur and overlooking Lake Picchola and and carvings are washed in bright blue Udaipur, tuktuks are the cheapest and backdropped by the Aravalli Mountains. and red, while arch-shaped windows easiest way to get around. Jaisalmer is a From afar, the whimsical buildings wedged with stained glass project small, compact city that is easy to move around by foot. seemingly float on the lake, casting its rainbow colors. shadows on the water surface. STAY www.hotelsinrajasthan.com has Tucked within the maze-like old town It serves as a reminder that Rajasthan a wide selection of accommodation In the midst of the lake rises the Taj is the Jagdish Temple dedicated to is a world in its own – religiously ranging from budget guesthouses Lake Palace, one of the top heritage Lord Vishnu. As the largest temple in faithful, naturally raw and most of all, to luxury heritage hotels. A highly hotels in Udaipur. Many hotels in the city, the three-storied temple is culturally rich. Amidst the towns and recommended hotel in Jaipur is Raj Udaipur have been converted from old made up of beautifully carved pillars, cities is a place full of character, pride Palace (www.hotelsinrajasthan.com), an palaces and mansions, refurbished to decorated ceilings and painted walls. and beauty, as anyone who roams the award-winning heritage hotel converted give a perfect blend of old-world charm The spire of the main temple is around streets of Rajasthan will know. One day, from the royal residence. In Udaipur, and modern-day luxury. The hotel 79 feet high, dominating the skyline of Rajasthan’s secluded towns might be splurge and stay at Taj Lake Palace spreads across a four-acre island – an Udaipur. At the foothills of the temple, transformed into busy tourist hubs, and (www.tajhotels.com) and in Jaisalmer, almost surreal vision in white marble. It we witness devout pilgrims sending the tinge of authenticity will be gone. check out Hotel Jawahar Niwas (www. jawaharniwaspalace.co.in), a charming can only be reached by boat and entry their offerings in the form of bright pink My own dream is that Rajasthan – royal guesthouse located at the rim of the is for hotel guests only. jasmine flowers to Lord Vishnu. India’s Kaleidoscopic Nation – stays still Thar Desert. in time, and that the future waits just a bit longer to arrive.

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