vintage A CK2915-2 from Lot 200 in the Omegamania 2007 Auction. This Speedmaster sold for $87,836.96 including the buyer’s auction premium. [Photo courtesy Antiquorum].

Upto SpeedSpeedSpeed A detailed look at the changes Omega has . made to the Speedmaster since its birth fifty years ago By Chuck Maddox

his year marks the fifti- distinctions between otherwise active and enthusiastic Internet eth anniversary of the in- very similar models, is beyond the community that provides a wide T troduction of the Omega scope of single article or series to variety of additional information Speedmaster. No other chrono- capture fully. should one wish to seek it out. graph has been in continu- Instead, what this article hopes Before we dive into the vari- ous production for such a length of to accomplish is a reasonably de- ous models and evolutions of the time. The vast depth and breadth tailed overview of the early years brand, it’s important to note that of the models and variations of and the main variations one would many things have changed in the Speedmasters produced since the see “in the wild” were one to start fifty years since the Speedmaster introduction of the first Speed- looking for vintage Speedmasters was first produced. Instantaneous master, in 1957, and the minute today. There is an established, inexpensive communication via

224 www.iwmagazine.com DECEMBER 2007INTERNATIONAL WATCH Left: German Omega Catalog showing either a CK2915-3 or an early CK2998. Center: 1963 German Omega Catalog showing Omega’s intended market. Below: The catalog cover. All ads this page courtesy of www.old-omegas.com .

the Internet, electronic databases, gists, Swiss crafstmen in this ep- of utmost utility. The design was modern inventory tracking, and och did their work without much entrusted to Claude Baillad, while the ease of recording, storing and concern for our ability to make Georges Hartmann crafted the first accessing information differs vastly sense of it today. They were more prototype. today from the late 1950s, when the concerned with quality, meeting The CK2915 was produced Speedmaster was first produced. demand, remaining profitable and in three different series from 1957 Changes were often made viable against the competition. through 1958, as officially denot- quickly, with little or no distinc- As a result, the further one ed by the caseback designations: tion being noted, and with little goes back into history, the more CK2915-1, CK2915-2, CK2915-3 By Chuck Maddox consideration that a couple of blurred the story gets. (which collectors often shortened decades down the road collec- to “dash one,” etc.). The similar tors would have any interest as to Origins elements in these three sub-mod- when a hand was changed, or if The Speedmaster story begins els are a Tritium-marked dial with the firm made a subtle difference with the CK2915, also known as an applied metal Omega “Ω” in the shape of a letter on a dial, or “The original 1957 Speedmaster” logo, “OMEGA” in all-cap block why some would seem to and sometimes [inaccurately] as type, “Speedmaster” in title-case have attributes of either the previ- the “Broad Arrow.” Pierre Moin- script, spearpoint subdial hands, a ous or successor models. at, the creative director of Omega, straight needle sec- The folks on the production developed the main idea for the ond hand, “Speedmaster” in an line and the managers in their design. Among his goals: a rugged, arc between two case tool notch- offices in the late 1950s likely more waterproof chronograph es, the hippocampus chemically weren’t considering the interest or with a large, easily read dial. The engraved two angle caseback, 4 the monies their products would intended market was professionals mm diameter pushers and 6 mm be fetching in auctions today. Just and enthusiasts in the aviation, au- diameter crown. as dinosaurs lived their lives with tomotive and sporting fields, where However, each of these mod- little regard for today’s paleontolo- ease of reading and usage would be els differed in the following ways:

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Left: The author’s CK2915-3. Note the “Base 1000” bezel. Many CK2915-3’s are configured like this with “alpha/dauphine” hands, even though they are CK2915 models. Below: A CK2998 with a lollipop second hand. (Photo Omega Mu- seum, Bienne)

3 CK2915-1: Has natural colored with the later CK2998 style hands, in at least seven different case stainless steel bezel embossed and which are commonly known as reference numbers, CK2998-1 inked with black painted text. “dauphine” or “alpha” hands. The through 6, and also -62 as Omega The bezel black paint in the crev- rest of this model is essentially the started to transition to a new case ices of the embossed steel with same as the CK2915-2. reference standard in late 1962. “TACHYMÈTRE BASE 1000” is I’ve been studying the Speed- unique to this model. This model, The CK2915 model Speed- masters since 1998 and I have yet along with the CK2915-2, has the master, because it was the first to find any person or document so-called “broad arrow” hands, produced, is among the most av- that lays out all of the subtle dis- which are also known as “Balane,” idly sought, and as a result it is tinctions between these models. with the arrow on the hour hand. exceedingly pricey to obtain, with Starting from the basic features of 3 CK2915-2: Transition midway the exception of the CK2915-3, the CK2915-3, one of the first dis- from the black on natural steel which is typically found priced tinctions was the chronograph sec- bezel to the more common silver similarly to the CK2998 models, ond hand which, while remaining on black paint bezel. The “TA- which it more closely resembles. needle-shaped, was painted white CHYMÈTRE BASE 1000” print- to stand out in poor light from the ing remains through the CK2998- Next generation dial. In addition, the location of 1 model. Considering the notable and sub- the “Speedmaster” engraved text 3 CK2915-3: This is the transitional stantial changes made between the on the caseback is moved from be- model to the CK2998. While a CK2915-1 and CK2915-3, Omega tween two of the wrench notches few early examples retain the Bal- soon noted these distinctions with on the caseback to an arc on the ane hands of the -1 and -2 models, a new case reference number, flat part of the caseback, in an arc many examples exist of this model CK2998. The CK2998 was made over the Hippocampus.

226 www.iwmagazine.com DECEMBER 2007INTERNATIONAL WATCH vintage

Left: 1964 Omega Catalog showing an ST 105.002 on left with a Sea- master 300 ST 165.014 on the right. Above: 1963 German Omega Catalog showing a 105.003 on the right priced at 455 German Marks (about $115). Ad pictured courtesy www.old-omegas.com.

Throughout the production original needle shaped hand. Most of these changes were run of the CK2998, the bezel Because the CK2998s and a made to improve the usability would lose the “Base 1000” mark- very select few 105.002’s have the of the Speedmaster: The earlier ing [to be replaced with numer- unique Dauphine hands, these Balane hands covered up far too als going up to 500], the subdial watches attract more interest and much of the dial and often subdi- hands would migrate from their hence higher prices than later als of the chronograph, diluting spearpoint shape to straight white- Speedmasters. the watch’s ability to be used for painted stick hands (as seen on all This series of watches also has one of it’s intended functions. Speedmasters produced since), the distinction of being the model The silver bezel was dis- the pusher size remains at 4 mm of Speedmaster that carded because pilots and drivers in diameter while the crown has wore during his Sigma 7 Mercury were frequently in bright, sunny grown in size to 7 mm. mission, making it the first Speed- conditions and the chance the Also, some CK2998s were pro- master to reach orbit. Later on, bezel could reflect the sun’s duced with a unique chronograph NASA would purchase Speed- blinding glare into the wearer’s second hand with a “Lollipop” lu- masters for evaluation, testing and eyes was very real. The 105.002 minous circle located at the same as a result of those tests make the started off as the first Speedmas- height as the Omega logo on the Speedmaster the standard-issue ter to be brought into line with dial. These “Lollipop” Speedmas- Astronaut wristwatch Omega’s new unified case-refer- ters are very uncommon and fetch encing system. high prices when listed for sale. Rare model Balane hands, as well as newly Later CK2998s adopted a new and Next up is the 105.002. By now adopted white painted stick hands, different chronograph seconds the Speedmaster has moved away were both produced for this mod- hand, which would be used for from many of the features that el. The dauphine hands, which several years. This new hand had made the early Speedmasters were unpainted save for the Tri- a spearpoint luminous shape ap- unique and unlike the later mod- tium luminous inserts, were often proximately over the Omega logo els. Long gone were the Balane difficult to read in certain lighting when the chronograph was reset hands, silver bezel, the smaller conditions. So Omega switched at zero, as well as a “spearpoint” crown and distinctive caseback to white stick hands starting with counterbalance as opposed to the marking of those early editions. some late 105.002s.

228 www.iwmagazine.com DECEMBER 2007INTERNATIONAL WATCH The author’s 105.003-65 is often called “The Quiet Speedmaster.”

Above,top:1967 Omega catalog with 105.003, a Seamaster and a “no-name” model. Below that, a rare French Omega catalog page from 1964 or 1965 showing 105.003 and 105.012 side-by-side. This is the only catalog I’ve ever seen that has both models side-by-side. Price for each model was 480 French francs, or roughly $100 in 1964-5 U.S. dollars. (Top ad courtesy of www.old-omegas.com; lower ad from the author’s archives.)

The 105.002 was only in out of the Speedmaster line. The 105.012 differs from the production for a few short The 105.003 incorporates most 105.003, at least initially, in the months in 1962 and possibly of these changes, though a few shape and style of its case. While 1963 before Omega formalized differences remain. The “quiet” it and all previous Speedmasters the change to white stick hands Speedmaster, as the 105.003 is shared the same plain-lugged case for the 105.003 model. So this often called, has the most plain with no crown or pusher guards transition model between the and elegant appearance when and a lug width of 19 mm, the CK2998 and the 105.003 was compared to models produced new 105.012 has an asymmetri- not produced in high numbers, prior or after its production. cal case with a 20 mm lug width, is exceedingly rare, and hence This ‘003 retains the plain added protection for the crown commands formidable prices lugs of the early model Speed- and pushers and a sculpted twist when offered. masters, the applied metal Omega to the lugs. logo, the now familiar black bezel In French, this style is called 1963: Splitting the with silver numerals, adds 5 mm Bombé and adds a layer of compli- Speedmaster diameter pushers (which would cation to the look of the Speed- With the late production be the size used henceforth), but master. Until 1965, the other 105.002s, most of the unique does not have “Professional” on features and look of the 105.012 differences between the original the dial, nor the twisted lugs of are identical to the 105.003. They Speedmaster and the modern a sister model introduced in the share the same bezel, dial, hands Speedmaster had been evolved same time frame, the 105.012. and caseback—except for the case

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This 1963 UK Omega catalog shows an ST 105002/2998 priced at £53.10, which would convert to $150 in 1963.

reference number engraved on the of the EVA were published in Na- There is also uncertainty as to inside caseback. tional Geographic. Omega has said when Omega started the practice After Wally Schirra and Gor- that this was the first indication they of printing “PROFESSIONAL” don Cooper wore the Speedmaster had that NASA had been issuing on the dial. More than a couple on their Mercury missions (Coo- the Speedmaster to astronauts. 105.012-63s have shown up for per wore both a Speedmaster and To signify this, Omega de- sale on the Web with “PROFES- a Accutron Astronaut, cided to rename the model the SIONAL” dials that appear to be because his mission lasted more Professional. correct, with aged luminosity that than 24 hours), NASA decided Soon, in the fall of 1965, 105.012s matches the aging of the hands. that the utility of having its astro- started being produced with dials Omega swears that the Pro dials nauts equipped with a standard- bearing “PROFESSIONAL” in all post-date the National Geograph- ized wrist chronograph was ben- caps below the script “Speedmas- ic pictorial, but these watches pose eficial. It began testing candidate ter” on the dial. The 105.003 was an interesting mystery. . superseded by a new case reference Could these be watches that During the break between (the 145.003) and the 105.012 had their dials swapped far enough Mercury and Gemini, NASA test- was soon to be replaced by a new after original production to have ed chronographs for astronaut use. case reference (the 145.012). been replaced with a later dial, The eventual winner of the testing but early enough so that the aging was the Speedmaster. Mysteries matches? Or is Omega mistaken The majority of Speedmasters There is a bit of uncertainty about about exactly when the Pro dials NASA acquired were 105.012s, the sequence of events with all started appearing on 105.012s? but a number of 105.003s (like Ed four of these case reference num- In summary, originally, White’s) and—later—145.012s bers. We know that the 105.003 105.003’s all have dials without were obtained. The Omega commu- and 105.012 were produced simul- “PROFESSIONAL,” and the nity has not been able to assemble taneously, and that the 105.003 plain 19 mm lugged case. The a full list of the chronographs ob- was discontinued in favor of the 105.012 can have either dial and tained by NASA, but a partial list 145.003 before the end of 1965. the twisted lug 20 mm asymmetri- has been assembled by Omega and It seems that the 105.012 was in cal case, but one should scrutinize is in collectors’ hands. production with “Pro” dials at the serial number and year of pro- A few months after ’s least through the end of 1965 and duction on the caseback carefully spacewalk, NASA photos perhaps into 1966. when considering the purchase of

230 www.iwmagazine.com DECEMBER 2007INTERNATIONAL WATCH Far left: 1971 Omega ad showing the Mark II Professional which we’ll discuss in the next segment of this series. Ad at left shows a 1969 Omega 105.012 with pre-Professional-dialed 105.012 with a listed price of £66 or $160 1969 U.S. dollars. Both are courtesy of Steve Waddington’s www.old-omegas.com site.

Omega was quick to capitalize on its NASA-Speedmaster connection. Courtesy Steve Waddington from his site, www.old- omegas.com.

The author’s 145.012-67. The -68 model is the last the 105.012 model: If the 105.012 of the c.321-movement you’re looking at is a -63 or -64 Speedmasters. with a non Professional dial, it’s probably fine, and with a 105.012- 65 either dial is correct, but a Pro point”- shaped counter-balance to an example that a fellow Italian dial on a 1964 or earlier model a counter-balance with slab sides. collector owns. should be viewed with caution. Save for the diamond-shaped lu- minous element near the top of To the Moon The Replacements the chronograph seconds hand, Over the years there has been much In 1965 Omega decided again to the entire hand would have a tri- discussion and even debate in the change the case reference number angular shape. Other than that, Omega collecting community as to of the Speedmaster line, which production of the 145.012 would which model Speedmasters actually now consisted of two models, the proceed unchanged to the last made it to the moon. The answer is plain and bombé lug versions. The half of October 1968. an open one. We can confirm that main difference between the out- The 145.003, on the other at least three different Speedmaster going 105.003 and 105.012 mod- hand, is a rare bird. case references made it to the moon els and their 145.003 and 145.012 How rare? I’ve been collecting (along with a Waltham Chrono- replacements is the shape of the Speedmasters actively for nearly graph). While we can exclude any caseback. The earlier models had nine years and I’ve seen exactly models made after 1972, we can’t a “two-step” slope to the angled two of them. For many years the confirm or repudiate other models part of the caseback, while the 145.003 was considered a myth, made before then. The models we new models had a single angle. like the Loch Ness monster, with can confirm are 105.003, 105.012 The 145.012s uniformly have Omega saying they made them. and 145.012. Professional dials, but about half- With no pictures or other sight- Next edition in this series: Speed- way through the production run ings, it was difficult to confirm masters of the 1970s. Chuck Maddox Omega changed the chronograph their existence. However, an Ital- hosts a collector’s blog at www.chuck- seconds-hand from a “spear- ian collector has posted pictures of maddoxwatch.blogspot.com. C

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