Daily Edition january 5, 2018 1

Fashion. Beauty. Business. LONDON CENTRAL

The runway show season is upon us, beginning this weekend with London Fashion Week Men’s. Some major brands may have dropped out, but there are still plenty of new names to see, as always in London, including, from left, Wood Wood, John Alexander Skelton, A Cold Wall and Daniel Fletcher. For more on the shows, see pages 9 to 12. photograph By Kasia Rucinska 2018

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WWD DIGITAL BEAUTY FORUM: NEW YORK FEBRUARY 7, NEW YORK

WWD RETAIL 20/20: THE NEW STORE EXPERIENCE FEBRUARY 28, TOKYO

MEN’S WEAR SUMMIT MARCH 27, NEW YORK

WWD BEAUTY CEO SUMMIT MAY 14 – 16, PALM BEACH, FLORIDA

WWD GLOBAL FASHION & BEAUTY FORUM MAY 30 - 31, XI’AN, CHINA

WWD RETAIL 20/20: THE NEW STORE EXPERIENCE JUNE 13, NEW YORK

WWD RETAIL 20/20: THE NEW STORE EXPERIENCE JULY, LONDON

WWD DIGITAL FORUM: NEW YORK SEPTEMBER 13, NEW YORK

WWD APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT OCTOBER 30 – 31, BROOKLYN

WWD DIGITAL FORUM: LOS ANGELES NOVEMBER, LOS ANGELES

NEW FOR 2018! The Style Dimension @ NYFW / February 8 - 9, New York Runway to Red Carpet / February 19 - March 3, Los Angeles WWD Style Lounge / March 9 - 11, Austin TX

FAIRCHILDLIVE.COM / ALEXIS COYLE [email protected] 646.356.4719 january 5, 2018 3

business Karen Katz Karen Katz Saying Goodbye to Neiman Marcus ● The president and ceo chain, Bergdorf’s, Neiman Marcus Direct, has been at Neiman’s for Mytheresa, Last Call and Horchow. For the quarter ended Oct. 28, 2017, more than three decades. Neiman’s had revenues of $1.12 billion, an By David Moin increase of 3.8 percent from $1.08 billion in revenues in the year-ago period. There was Karen Katz, president and chief executive a net loss of $26.2 million in the last quarter, officer of the $4.7 billion Neiman Marcus compared to $23.5 million in the year-ago Group and a 32-year veteran of the busi- quarter. Adjusted earnings before interest, ness, will soon leave the company, accord- taxes, depreciation and appreciation was ing to sources. virtually flat at $123.5 million, compared to “She is ready for a change. The com- $122.9 million a year ago. pany has seen some turnaround,” said a The losses are still deep and the long- source familiar with the situation. “Kar- term debt remains high at about $4.4 en’s had enough.” billion. However, in recent months Katz For a successor, NMG owners Ares has cited improvements and momentum Management and Canada Pension Plan in the business. The company did narrow Investment Board are likely to select its net loss in its last fiscal year, and Katz someone from outside the company said the performance at Neiman’s stores and outside of luxury retail. “They want was stabilizing. She also said the company career in 1978 in the training program of director of all stores in 1996. She became an someone with a fresh perspective,” the was “doubling down” on digital growth the now-defunct Foley’s department store executive vice president in 1998, president source said. It’s believed Katz will stay on and online services through a strategy chain in Houston. She joined Neiman’s as and ceo of Neiman Marcus Direct in 2000 the Neiman’s board. called Digital First, and that the new NMG assistant manager of the Houston store in and ceo of Neiman Marcus Stores in 2002. Second-in-command at NMG is Jim Gold, One inventory management system, after 1985. She rose up the ranks, becoming divi- In October 2010, she became president and chief merchandising officer and president a rocky start, had resolved its operational sional merchandise manager of handbags, ceo of the entire company. of Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and issues which disrupted ordering and infor- general manager of the North Park store in Neiman Marcus had no comment Thurs- Neiman Marcus International. NMG oper- mation exchange with vendors. Dallas, one of the chain’s biggest volume day, after The Wall Street Journal reported ates the Neiman Marcus department store The 60-year-old Katz began her retail units, and then senior vice president and that Katz was leaving the company.

fashion he spent three years as design director with Daryl K and then took over the role at DVF. While at DVF, he launched his own label and left to pursue this venture, open- Nathan Jenden Returns to DVF ing stores in China, Hong Kong and South Korea. Most recently he worked for Global ● As chief design officer Designer Diane von Furstenberg and Brands Group as the creative director for and vice president, creative, Nathan Jenden on the Bebe, while also supporting other brands Jenden takes over duties runway after the Diane in GBG’s portfolio including Hervé Leger formerly handled by von Furstenberg spring and Juicy Couture. 2012 show at Lincoln When Jenden left DVF in 2011, he was Jonathan Saunders, who Center’s The Theatre. succeeded by Yvan Mispelaere, who stayed resigned last month. two and a half years. In a 2006 interview when Jenden By Lisa Lockwood launched his eponymous collection while That didn’t take long. working at DVF, WWD reported that with Diane von Furstenberg said Thursday Jenden in tow, von Furstenberg rees- that Nathan Jenden has been named chief tablished herself in fashion. DVF in turn design officer and vice president, creative. helped Jenden establish a name for himself He returns to the brand where he worked in fashion circles by taking him down the for 10 years until 2011. In his role, he will runway with her at the end of each show to oversee all design for the brand. share the limelight. Jenden takes over duties formerly han- “Diane has really taught me so much dled by Jonathan Saunders, who resigned about life,” Jenden said in the 2006 his post as chief creative officer last month. interview. “She shares a lot of the values enske Media/ R EX/Shutterstock enske “It is with joy and pride that I look I was brought up with. Cultural references forward to welcoming Nathan back at have always been very important to Diane, DVF. Nathan is an extremely talented and they are also important to me. She is and technically skillful designer who also surrounded by books about art and poetry. has a great gift at surrounding himself She is inspiring.” with young, emerging talent. He totally At the time, DVF said, “What I like embraces the DVF woman and the brand about Nathan is that he is both talented enjoyed its greatest commercial success and intelligent. I need to refer to history, during his tenure,” von Furstenberg said. to literature, so I need somebody who is “The fundamental essence of DVF talented, intelligent and well-read.” that Diane created is an identity that has Robert Burke, chief executive officer of empowered women everywhere, deliver- Robert Burke Associates, a consulting firm, ing accessible style, confidence, indepen- that epitomizes Diane, DVF, the brand a new corporate brand identity and mar- said Thursday, “I think he is a very solid, EX/Shutterstock; Von Furstenberg by Ch/ P by Furstenberg Von A / R EX/Shutterstock; dence and a sense of self-worth. Diane and the spirit of women today. And most keting including advertising campaigns. He talented designer, and he was involved delivers that message not only through importantly of all, I want to make great stepped down from the brand days after in DVF when it was really at a high so he osser/BF fashion, but in her approach to life, her clothes that resonate with women,” said von Furstenberg said she plans to sell a completely understands the DNA of the love of art, culture, diversity and philan- Jenden. stake in her fashion company. She plans to brand and also understands the dynam- thropy. I see DVF as being more relevant Jenden will report to von Furstenberg hire Michel Dyens & Co., an independent ics of the company. In knowing him and today than it ever was in its message of and DVF’s board. His first collection will be banking firm, to explore options. dealing with him, he’s a very personable, self-empowerment while being dynamic for fall, and will be shown in February. The London-born Jenden studied at likable, level-headed designer. They had a and modern. I want to give the DVF girl Saunders had been in the role since Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art very good run together. The big advantage what she wants when she wants it, and May 2016 and was in charge of all product before receiving an apprenticeship with is there’s no learning curve, and I expect

Katz photograph by Ben R by photograph Katz with the joie de vivre and sense of purpose categories, store design, web site design, John Galliano. Moving to New York in 1998, him to hit the ground running.” 4 january 5, 2018

business 2018 Starts With a Beauty M&A Bang ● Five days into the year, BH The eye-shadow MidOcean Partners Cosmetics has landed an palette from BH Invests in BH Cosmetics Cosmetics and BH Cosmetics has inked a deal with pri- investor and Vita Liberata has Lindy Tsang, aka vate equity firm MidOcean Partners. Bubzbeauty. sold to Crown Laboratories. BH, headquartered in Los Angeles, makes value-priced makeup, brushes and By Allison Collins related accessories. The brand’s product On occasion, the start of a new year lineup includes eye shadow palettes, marks a slight break in the constant flow including the 28-shade Foil Eyes Palette, of M&A in the beauty world — but this $13.99, and the First Edition 120-color hasn’t been the case for 2018. Eyeshadow Palette, $17.99, as well as Crown Laboratories, a recent invest- facial makeup, lip products, brow palettes ment of family office Hildred Capital and a Studio Pro line. The brand’s prod- Partners, has made its first acquisition ucts are sold primarily online, but are also — self-tanning brand Vita Liberata. Vita carried at Ulta Beauty, Urban Outfitters, makes organic sunless tanning prod- Riley Rose and other retailers. ucts, and plans to explore distribution WWD previously reported BH had hired through dermatologists under its new The Sage Group to consider a transac- owner. The brand has about $50 million tion — the firm was exclusive financial in retail sales, according to industry adviser to BH. Industry sources indicated sources. Terms of the transaction were the brand has between $50 million and not disclosed. $60 million in net sales, is very profitable MidOcean Partners, a private equity and does most of its sales online. The firm with fragrance and skin-care beauty MidOcean deal will give BH the ability to experience, has made an investment in expand in the U.S., globally and tackle e-commerce-focused makeup brand BH new wholesale opportunities. Cosmetics. Terms of the deal were not “There is a lot of room for expansion disclosed, but industry sources estimated and to accelerate the growth opportuni- that the business does between $50 mil- ties the company currently has,” said Sage lion and $60 million in net sales. managing director Arash Farin of BH. The deals mark the latest transactions “Wholesale will be a major growth driver in a years-long beauty buying spree. going forward.” Strategic buyers, private equity compa- BH has a history of partnering with nies and venture capital firms have all influencers, including Carli Bybel, who been active, with many newcomers (like has 5.7 million YouTube subscribers, and Hildred and Crown) moving into the BubzBeauty, who has 2.9 million YouTube space. Other recent transactions include subscribers, on products. BH has also Kao’s purchase of luxury hair-care line partnered with actress Ashley Tisdale for Oribe, Colgate-Palmolive’s venture into several palettes. professional skin care with acquisitions of That strategy seems to have boosted the Elta MD and PCA Skin, and TSG Consum- brand’s earned media value, according er’s investment in HudaBeauty. to data from Tribe Dynamics. BH’s EMV was up 66 percent year-over-year for the Hildred-Backed third quarter of 2017. BH has also grown Crown Laboratories its community with a 278 percent increase Acquires Vita Liberata in ambassadors, and grew its posts by 448 Crown Laboratories is buying self-tan- percent, according to Tribe. ning brand Vita Liberata. Under MidOcean, BH will continue to For Crown, the deal provides access to be led by founders Fred Sadovskiy, ceo; the prestige beauty category, according to Kirill Trachtenberg, chief strategy officer, chief executive officer Jeff Bedard. “With and Robert Sefardi, chief operating the acquisition of Vita, we’ll be getting officer. All three will retain stakes in the into the beauty premium space and then business. leveraging the assets throughout the port- “BH was launched in 2009 with a focus folio,” Bedard said. on eye palettes and has since developed Crown is primarily a vertically inte- a full suite of cosmetics with high-quality grated manufacturing business — the busi- products at value price points,” said ness has focused on health-care products Products from Vita Liberata. Trachtenberg. “The partnership with and also makes Blue Lizard Australian MidOcean will enable us to dedicate addi- Sunscreen. tanner was up 5 percent, to $52.2 million, “The combination when we have a tional resources to key areas of our busi- Vita Liberata makes a line of organic, according to NPD. chance to get in the lab together.…I don’t ness including innovation and product sunless tanning products that are sold For Vita, the deal should expand its even have the words to imagine what it is development, marketing and branding through QVC, Sephora, Space NK and Ulta access to the doctors’ office networks — a we might create,” Hogg said, adding that and customer service. We believe there is Beauty. The company’s product lineup new distribution opportunity. whatever it is will be folded into the retail a tremendous opportunity to accelerate includes Ten Minute Tan, $39; Body Blur “We’re adding not just numbers of side of Vita for consumers. BH’s growth.” Instant HD Skin Finish, $45; Phenomenal people to the potential base of brains, Crown is backed by family office Hil- “We believe that BH Cosmetics has 2-3 Week Tan Mousse, $54; Self Tanning but we’re also adding different kinds of dred Capital Partners, which acquired a substantial opportunities for continued Anti Age Serum, $45; Self Tan Dry Oil SPF smarts and experiences, particularly majority stake in the business in Decem- growth and expansion fueled by appropri- 50 with Marula, $27; Fabulous Instant Self in the area of distribution channels,” ber. Vita Liberata has been backed by ate investments in people, infrastructure Tan Illuminate Wash Off Body Bronzer, Hogg said. “Being a tanning brand, [the Dublin private equity firm Broadlake and marketing,” said Jonathan Marlow, $30, and Self Tanning Night Moisture physician channel] is not really a channel since 2012. managing director at MidOcean. “We see Mask, $45. we’ve explored before, but part of what Vita is Crown’s first acquisition under numerous opportunities to increase BH’s The brand, headquartered in Bally- was so interesting in the conversation Hildred, but more are likely, according presence across channels and geogra- clare, Northern Ireland, was founded that we’ve had is that the kind of product to David Solomon, partner at Hildred. phies.” MidOcean’s beauty investment by Alyson Hogg in 2003. Vita Liberata we’ve been making…is very dermatologist Solomon was part of the team that built history also includes Image Skin Care, has introduced new technologies into appropriate.” pharmaceutical business Forest Laborato- which it is currently invested in, and its formulations that focus on moisture Dermatologists are consistently advis- ries, which is owned by Allergan. Agilex Fragrances, which it sold to Fir- locking, eliminating smells, long-lasting ing their patients to stay out of the sun, “We were successful at building a menich in 2017. tans and antiaging. The business also uses but could provide a self-tanner to patients company by licensing and acquiring and The direct tie BH has with its custom- a Trystal3 technology for dry, crystallized that hadn’t been heeding that advice, partnering, and that very much is and ers is part of the reason retailers want tanning options. Hogg explained. will continue to be part of the strategy for it, according to Sage vice president Vita sits in a small but growing segment “With this merger we have the oppor- Crown,” Solomon said. Andrew Dunst. “You’ll probably see of the prestige beauty industry. The pres- tunity to prove organics aren’t just the “Vita represents Crown’s first acquisition more brands like BH pop up that are tige self-tanning market grew 10 percent pretty little sister of real skin care,” Hogg and is a meaningful step toward building really born online venture into the brick for the year ended November to $52.2 mil- said, noting that the deal gives the com- its OTC-branded consumer division,” said and mortar world as [retailers] try to lion, according to figures from The NPD pany more “chemistry brains” to work on Andrew Charbin, director at The Sage bring those experiences into the brick- Group. For the prior year, prestige self product development. Group, which advised Vita on the deal. and-mortar world.” january 5, 2018 5

business Some Momentum, More Work at Dept. Stores

● Macy’s and J.C. Penney Macy’s picked up some comp sales in closing stores, cutting costs and rein- earnings per share for 2017 to $3.11 to $3.21 momentum during the holiday season. vesting in their businesses, but acknowl- from the previously forecast of $2.91 to both showed signs of edged that traffic is falling in stores, which $3.16. comparable-sales need to be quick and flexible. Penney’s didn’t give any bottom-line momentum over the holidays. “We also believe the apparel category updates, but chairman and ceo Marvin needs reinvention and new kinds of part- Ellison did feel comfortable enough to tout By Evan Clark with contributions from nerships are essential with vendors and its holiday sales. Kali Hays and David Moin brands in order to drive differentiation “We are very encouraged with our Better, but not enough — the department versus both Amazon and low-cost alterna- overall comp-sales performance during store storm hasn’t passed yet. tives,” Chen said. the holiday season, which was led by Macy’s Inc. and J.C. Penney Co. Inc. both Jeff Gennette, chief executive officer of home, beauty and fine jewelry,” Ellison showed signs of life in the holiday season Macy’s, played up the company’s sales said. “Additionally, our apparel categories with comparable sales increases. Macy’s rebound and signaled that changes would continue to demonstrate improved comp said its comp sales for the November/ keep coming, including store closures, performance, particularly in women’s and December stretch rose 1 percent while J.C. CGP estimates that total holiday spending cost cuts and plans to invest $300 million kids. We are also pleased by our e-com- Penney comped up 3.4 percent. (L Brands reached a record $672 billion, a 5.7 percent in annualized cost savings back into the merce business that continues to outpace Inc. also comped up 1 percent for Decem- year-over-year increase. That’s slightly business. prior-year results with double-digit sales ber, but felt the sting of higher promotions higher than Johnson’s mid-December “Macy’s had a solid holiday shop- growth, largely driven by sought-after gift- at its Victoria’s Secret division). estimate of $671 billion, or a 5.6 percent ping season and we are pleased that ing categories such as fine jewelry, home At department stores, Wall Street is increase. His holiday forecast is based on our November-December performance decor and luggage, toys, boots and athletic looking for more than a little momen- shopper surveys nationally in malls and resulted in positive comp sales for the footwear.” tum, with analysts prodding retailers to other shopping venues, and census data. period, setting us up for a positive fourth At L Brands, investors were clearly look- continue to adjust their businesses as more It excludes sales of autos, auto parts, fuel quarter,” Gennette said. ing for a little bit more, especially after the sales go online. and at restaurants. The retailer said it would close 11 Macy’s company’s long-churning restructuring at There would seem to be some time Holiday sales were paced by online/ stores as part of the August 2016 plan to Victoria’s Secret was showing signs of life for retailers to push that evolution along direct-to-consumer sales, up 11.7 percent; shutter 100 doors. With these closures, at the beginning of the holiday season. since the consumer economy is generally home improvement, up 9.5 percent; off- the company will have closed 81 of the 100 Victoria’s Secret comped down 1 percent seen as steady and strengthening, fueled pricer stores, 8.4 percent; superstores/ stores. Since 2015 Macy’s has eliminated in December overall, while comps at its in part by the still-rolling stock market, clubs, 5.6 percent; apparel, 5.1 percent. 124 doors. brick-and-mortar stores fell 6 percent. where the Dow Jones Industrial Average However, women’s apparel retailers and Macy’s is also planning to cut costs Amie Preston, L Brands’ investor relations jumped above 25,000 for the first time on sporting goods saw sluggish sales at best, through a new plan that will see staffing officer, said the brand’s merchandise Thursday. Johnson said. adjustments across the store’s organiza- margin rate was “down significantly” Craig Johnson, president of Customer Investors, though, remain cautious on tion, with locations losing headcount and compared to last year due to increased Growth Partners, believes that the solid department stores and retailers in general others gaining. The effort will also lead to a promotions, which will continue at least holiday 2017 season portends robust and shares of Macy’s fell 3.3 percent streamlining of non-store functions as well until Victoria’s Secret starts to focus on consumer spending in 2018. “With the to $24.49, while J.C. Penney’s stock as a onetime charge of about $160 million Valentine’s Day. Inventory per square foot broad-based sales growth and rising real dipped 0.3 percent to $3.69 on Thursday. in the fourth quarter. is up 7 percent for the lingerie retailer. disposable incomes — and now the new tax Oliver Chen, a Cowen retail analyst, Macy’s will benefit from a lower tax bill The reaction was strong on Wall Street, cut legislation—all the ingredients are in acknowledged “green shoots” at depart- in the final month of its fiscal year and, with L Brand shares dropping 12.3 percent place for a sustained rebound in consumer ment stores and attributed Macy’s and taking that and better sales into account, to $51. spending well into 2018 and perhaps Penney’s comp improvement to “improved updated its earnings guidance. Excluding Mark Altschwager of Baird Equity beyond,” Johnson said. inventory management and flow; good cat- charges associated with the restructuring, Research said the drop in shares According to Johnson, retail spending egory momentum in beauty, activewear, the impact of tax reform and a gain on “reflected some expectation for upside” growth is at its best since 2005, with and outerwear and digital strength.” the sale of its Union Square store in San and that overall, the sales update was widespread gains in stores and online. Chen said retailers are making progress Francisco, Macy’s nudged up its range for “disappointing.”

business of fiscal measures which are currently landed in hot water in 2012 after applying relatively favorable,” he said. for Belgian citizenship in a move that was De Crevoisier, who does not work for widely interpreted as an attempt to escape Bernard Arnault Arnault, said he likely took advantage of France’s high taxes. France’s Dutreil scheme, which allows Left-leaning French daily Libération ran three-quarters of the value of a family busi- a photo of Arnault on its cover under the Donates Shares Worth ness to be transferred without any liability headline “Casse-toi riche con!” — whose for transfer tax. most polite translation is “Get Lost Rich “I don’t know if the donation was indeed Idiot!” At the time, the businessman 366 Million Euros made under this scheme, but I imagine it claimed he was seeking to protect his is the case. It’s a favorable system because Belgian interests and LVMH’s in the case of ● France’s richest man worth 46.6 million euros, according to the it allows you to benefit from a number of his death. distributed the shares to filings available on AMF’s web site. Both are different rebates, thereby greatly reducing Stating that he had planned to remain a directors at LVMH, and Delphine Arnault donation taxes,” he said. fiscal resident of France all along, Arnault his children, including is also a director at Christian Dior, which “This scheme has been in place for subsequently withdrew his citizenship Delphine and Antoine explains why they had to declare the dona- several years, so I don’t think there are any application, characterizing his decision as Arnault, according to tions they received. particular factors that prompted this dona- “a gesture of my attachment to France and Delphine and Antoine are the children of tion, except perhaps for age,” he added. my faith in its future.” stock market filings. Bernard Arnault’s marriage to his first wife, Arnault is 68. He noted that LVMH companies pay Anne Dewavrin. He also has three sons “He probably was able to benefit from annual French taxes totaling close to 1 By Joelle Diderich with his second wife, the Canadian pianist an additional rebate, because for people billion euros, even though the group gener- PARIS — Christmas came early for the Hélène Mercier, including Alexandre under 70, under the Dutreil scheme for ates 90 percent of its revenues outside the family of Bernard Arnault. Arnault, co-ceo of German luggage maker transferring businesses, donation taxes can country. “Concerning myself, I won’t tell The French luxury magnate on Dec. Rimowa. be reduced by half. This is no doubt one of you how much how much I pay personally 13 donated more than 366 million euros’ Benoît Boussemart, an author who spe- the compelling reasons why this is happen- in taxes, but believe me, it’s a lot,” he said. worth of shares in his luxury holdings cializes in investigating France’s wealthiest ing now,” the lawyer said. Arnault acknowledged at the time that LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and families, initially reported in a blog post Arnault, France’s wealthiest man, his shares in LVMH — which account for the Christian Dior SE, according to filings made that each of the children received 73.2 bulk of his fortune — have been transferred with France’s stock market regulator AMF, million euros. Officials at LVMH declined to Bernard to a Belgian foundation, but that it has no and it appears his children were the main comment on the report. Arnault impact on the taxes the group must pay beneficiaries. Charles de Crevoisier, a lawyer who in France, nor on inheritance taxes that R EX/Shutterstock O kauchi/ A rnault by endzich/ R EX/Shutterstock; Delphine Arnault, executive vice pres- specialties include helping family-run busi- would come due when the time comes. ident of Louis Vuitton, received 189,020 nesses optimize the transfer of assets, said A Brussels court nonetheless opened an LVMH shares and 88,222 Christian Dior this type of donation was designed to take inquiry into the luxury titan for “poten- shares, worth a combined 73.2 million advantage of tax breaks. tially falsely claiming Belgian residence” euros, according to the documents filed on “The idea is to anticipate a handover but shelved the case in 2017 after Arnault Dec. 27. which would have occurred anyway after agreed to pay an undisclosed “transaction” Antoine Arnault, chief executive officer his death, and I imagine from a fiscal point to end proceedings, without admitting guilt

Macy’s photograph by Erik P by photograph Macy’s of Berluti, received 189,020 LVMH shares of view, it is also aimed at taking advantage in the case. 6 january 5, 2018

beauty Cosmetic Dermatology’s New Demo: The Middle-Aged, Straight Man ● Men love Botox just as much as women do.

By Rachel Strugatz

The man getting Botox, fillers and any number of skin-resurfacing or tightening lasers (or all of the above) is not who you might think. More often than not, it’s a middle-aged, heterosexual man. “I see a lot of executive men,” said Dr. Ellen Marmur, a dermatologist whose namesake Marmur Medical practice con- sists of 40 percent male patients, about triple that of five years ago. And the vast majority of them are straight. “The pendulum has swung from anti- aging fascination to ‘preservation’ aging,” Marmur explained during an interview at her office on New York City’s Upper East Side. “There are so many reasons: It’s not considered [strictly] a feminine thing to get Botox or fillers, the stigma has gone away...[and] men don’t ask questions. They don’t come in and ask, ‘What do you think I should do?’ They sit down and they do it. They have enough money and they are in the professional game so they need to age well. It’s a matter of why not? Why wouldn’t they?” Most men who get an injection here or there are reluctant to advertise it, but the rate at which they’re visiting their doctors for Botulinum Toxin (the formal name for the family of neurotoxin injectables Botox, Dysport and Xeomin) and more is certainly on the rise — and the spike is hardly unique to Dr. Marmur’s practice. It mirrors a trend doctors are experiencing nationwide, and there are numbers to prove it. According to data from the American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, there has been a 27.3 percent lift in surgical cos- metic procedures for men in the past five years. Also: men love Botox just as much as women. The market saw a 101 percent increase in the amount of male botulinum toxin procedures performed between 2010 and 2016. Men have always been part of the aes- thetic market — that’s nothing new — but the percentage of overall procedures they make up is rising rapidly. “All the attention has really gone to the women, while in the background it’s been steadily growing year-over-year. The [American] Society [of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery] tracks a lot of these procedures, they’ve been tracking this stuff for 20 years, and over that time they’ve seen the number of men getting these treatments increase by 325 percent. The growth has been kind of happening in a quiet but steady way,” said Colleen McKenna, vice president of marketing, facial aesthetics 101% at Allergan. The reasons for this spike? There are several, including an influx The increase in of filler options manufactured by med- the amount ical giants like Allergan and Galderma designed to target specific parts of the of male botulinum face. While products were once limited, toxin procedures fillers today are not only more natural looking but possess unique properties performed between from consistency (Voluma is considered a heavy filler while Boletero is among the 2010 and 2016. Source: American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery lightest) to the length results could last (some fillers wear off after six months and others last up to two years). In tandem, an uptick in products gave way Dr. Ellen Marmur Continued on page 7 R EX/Shutterstock Cultura/ by photograph Male treatment january 5, 2018 7

Cosmetic Deion Sanders was named the male Dermatology’s face of Botox in 2017. New Demo: The Middle-Aged, Straight Man continued from page 6 to enhanced techniques that allowed for doctors to use any number of fillers to sculpt different portions of the face. McKenna believes much of the growth in the men’s market has to do with the emergence and widespread adoption of social media. “That whole medium has really given people more voice, more platforms to talk and share what they’re doing, what they’re thinking. There’s just a greater openness,” she said. There are societal reasons, too. San Francisco-based dermatologist Dr. Vic Narurkar said the increase stems from a culture where men aren’t afraid to take care of themselves appearance-wise anymore. Previously, men were “dragged in by their significant others,” he noted, where it was nearly unheard of for a male patient to come in of his own free will for a cosmetic procedure. Surely, men have a lot of catching up to do to women in terms of mainstreaming, but there is definitely an uptick in awareness and for the man.…That culture is changing, acceptance of men who want to preserve first with the metro sexual and now with their appearance and keep aging at bay. an ordinary man who wants to take care “I think also there’s more awareness of himself.” that you can do things that don’t require a Marmur, who joked that she is the “iron lot of recovery, and that also don’t change surgeon for male cosmetic surgery,” told a your masculine features. The biggest fear story about a competition that takes place that men have is feminization of the face,” during the American Society for Dermato- he said. logic Surgery Annual Meeting each year. Narurkar also acknowledged Facebook A select group of doctors have to present founder Mark Zuckerberg’s infamous a case in front of 6,000 attendees, she quote that companies should not hire said, comparing the event to the show people over the age of 30, crediting this “Iron Chef,” and after being presented sentiment to a surge in male patients — with a series of dermatological-related especially those in a competitive work cases, doctors vote on the most favorable environment. For men in their 40s and outcome. Her “case” just happened to be 50s, vying for positions being handed to a cosmetic surgery makeover performed guys decades younger creates a need to on a man in his mid-50s. maintain the appearance of youth more He “got the works,” she said, holding than ever. up before and after photos as she detailed Similar to Marmur, a significant portion the various treatments the patient of Narurkar’s male patients hail from received. Brown spots were removed San Francisco and Silicon Valley — the with lasers, and fillers such as Restylane, “epicenter of youth” — and are “predom- Voluma and Radius were injected in the inantly straight men.” He contended that under-eye region, in the cheek bones to the percentage of men he sees has “grown “square off the face” and in the jawline dramatically in the last five years,” jump- and temples, respectively. ing from 10 to 25 percent of his practice. Dr. Vic Narurkar Marmur won the competition. And The most requested procedure is neuro- truth be told, this man really did look toxin injections, largely due to increased younger (yet still age-appropriate). Pre- awareness. sented with these photos in a different “Deion Sanders is the face of men’s context, one might attribute a lot of sleep, Botox and that’s brought in a whole other a healthier lifestyle and/or an extended group of patients who I’d never in my vacation for this “fresher” look. To the wildest dreams have expected to see. untrained eye, it would be nearly impos- It’s the ‘man’s man,’ the sports guy who sible to discern that his new youthful really ‘doesn’t care’.…But men really do appearance was the result of a series of care. As a man I care — and it took 10 noninvasive facial procedures. years of doing Botox on everyone else to “They like to keep some wrinkles. We do it on myself,” Narurkar admitted. put filler in the forehead lines instead He added: “There is an intrinsic [idea] of Botox — like Boletero, Juvederm Ultra among men, which I think stems from our or Restylane Silk — and use Botox in the fathers, that you need to be tough, and ‘11’s’ and a little in the upper crows feet that this [caring about appearance] is not because it actually lifts their brow,” said Marmur. (For those who don’t know, the ‘11’s’ is the area between the eyebrows that, over time, can give the appearance of a “furrowed brow” with the appear- ance of wrinkles.) She cautioned — as did all doctors 27.3% interviewed for this story — that retaining The increase in surgical a patient’s masculine features, or “making cosmetic procedures sure you don’t feminize” a man’s face, remains the single most important aspect performed on men in the when it comes to men. Earlier work from past five years. decades past often produced male faces Source: American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery that appeared “softened” or feminized, Dr. Jason Diamond Continued on page 8 8 january 5, 2018

Cosmetic them opt for some kind of SCULPSURE GoodSkin Los neck treatment — the most Angeles is a boutique AND LASER LIPO Dermatology’s popular being a combina- clinic specializing in At Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank’s tion of skin tightening lasers noninvasive Upper East Side cosmetic New Demo: like the Infini or Ulthera and treatments. dermatology practice in targeted Kybella injections, Manhattan, male patients The Middle-Aged, which melt fat. “It’s the high- — about 40 percent of the est area of concern for all Straight Man practice — seeking body con- my male clients,” Goodman touring procedures are “Type continued from page 7 said of the neck. Kybella can A, frustrated and intolerable be used off-label for many of being able to get rid of areas with fat pockets on certain genetic pockets of fat a result of a lack of product options and the body — including the they can’t lose by dieting or less-evolved techniques. stomach, back and under- exercise,” according to Frank, Which is why cosmetic procedures for arms. Kybella injections are who noted the most popular especially popular with men, men — both noninvasive and invasive — area on the body for men said Goodman, because have gotten such a bad rap. In addition to treat is the “love handle” there’s no downtime.”My to a fear of walking out of a doctor’s region, along with the chin straight male clients are office looking “different” or feminine, the and chest. The most com- more particular than my fe- mon noninvasive procedures notion of a man doing work to his face male clients about avoiding Frank performs are Laser remained a cultural taboo because it goes procedures with downtime,” Liposuction and Sculpsure, a against the “alpha male” ideals that define said Goodman. “You can use laser that melts fat — he pre- [Kybella] anywhere there is modern society today. (For straight men, fers using heat over freezing fat. It can get pricey be- at least.) technologies because of the cause you need a lot of vials When asked what the most popular skin-tightening benefits of — that’s the case with back procedure for this group is, Marmur to discover other noninva- lasers like Sculpsure that rely fat [for instance] — but I still sive cosmetic procedures on heat. Laser Liposuction swiftly replied: injecting filler under the For Straight Males, have some clients doing on the market, said Dyer. requires general anesthe- eyes. But funnily enough, these patients it because it’s completely “They end up coming in for sia and about 36 hours of never rarely come in asking for under-eye Body Contouring Is noninvasive.” body contouring or to get downtime — a “weekend” fillers because most still don’t even know Lauren Abramowitz of rid of their double chin and procedure, as Frank refers to The Gateway to Botox Park Avenue Skin Solutions this is a viable option to eradicate under- more than 31 percent of it — but can garner signifi- concurred that the uptick eye concerns, from hollowness to bags to Guys are visiting cosmetic dermatologists them end up converting to cantly more results — about of men in her own practice dark circles. ancillary treatments.” 80 to 90 percent fat removal to rid themselves of love handles — and — a 10 percent growth from — than a treatment with less “They come in and say, ‘I look tired,’” discovering Botox along the way. 2016 to 2017 — is due to the downtime, like Sculpsure. Marmur said, adding that the runner-up KYBELLA, LASERS AND increase in procedures with By Ellen Thomas “The noninvasive person is to filler is neurotoxins, or “Brotox.” “Men RADIO FREQUENCY less downtime, especially willing to accept whatever come in for the overhaul. They are just COOLSCULPTING assistant who oversees It’s all about the neck at when it comes to body difference it makes because Twenty-seven percent of cosmetic procedures at GoodSkin Los Angeles, a contouring. “Back in the like, ‘OK, tell me the executive plan. How they don’t want to deal with cosmetic patients at Dr. Wechsler’s office. Zeltiq boutique Brentwood med- day, liposuction was the much of it can I do at once?’ and then you downtime,” said Frank, who Amy Wechsler’s Upper East was ultimately acquired by ical clinic that specializes only option for fat removal plan out the year for them and maybe noted that more awareness Side office are men — that’s Allergan last year. “Many in noninvasive cosmetic and body contouring — now they come in two to three times and opti- and acceptance in popular up from just 8 percent in of these male patients are treatments. Men comprise these machines can spot culture of noninvasive mize their time.” 2014. The sharp rise in men in the finance industry 35 percent of GoodSkin’s reduce and [men] are back procedures is driving men to Then there are doctors who maintain male patients is driven who became aware of patient base, said the clinic’s to work the next day. They his practice. “A lot of men are that men have always comprised a healthy largely by Coolsculpting, Zeltiq and Coolsculpting founder Lisa Goodman, don’t feel intimidated be- concerned about the jawline portion of their patient bases. the fat reduction procedure on the stock market,” said a physician’s assistant. cause they don’t have [to go or double chin — if they’re told said to freeze and kill fat Dyer, who noted that the Goodman pointed out under].” Abramowitz targets Dr. Jason Diamond, a plastic surgeon they can do something about cells. Coolsculpting is not Coolsculpt Mini — a smaller that GoodSkin has always her male clients’ biggest based in Los Angeles who appeared in it non-invasively it’s an easy new — it first received FDA version of the Coolsculpt- attracted male clientele but concern — the abs — with E!’s reality series “Doctor 90210” that sell,” said Frank. “Men are approval in 2010 — but ing applicator that can be in the past year she’s noted combinations of Kybella and just as concerned with being documented patients before and after began gaining traction with used on the double chin a 10 percent rise in straight BodyFX, a radio frequency the best versions of them- plastic surgeries, said seeing a lot of men is men after the publicly trad- area and just recently male patients specifically, technology that destroys selves as women, they’re “nothing new to his practice.” Currently, ed stock of parent compa- received FDA clearance almost all of them coming in fat cells, or Ulthera. Said just focused on different 25 to 30 percent of surgical patients and 25 ny Zeltiq Aesthetics began — is another fast-growing after girlfriends and wives Abramowitz: “It’s about the things — they want to be in gaining attention from procedure for men. Most visit the clinic. Of the male combination — it’s never just percent of non-invasive patients are men. the best shape or the most For him, a focus and expertise in men’s Wall Street in 2015, said notably, Coolsculpting has patient base, said Good- one modality or therapy.” acted as a gateway for men man, almost 100 percent of competitive.” facial procedures spans more than two Laura Dyer, the physician’s decades. Early on in his career he spent two years at a New York-based derma- tology practice where about 90 percent years; I did about 400 male surgeries in see a smaller percentage of gay men and what I do most for men in-office.” of the patients he saw were men (there two years,” Diamond said. “I started off an increase in straight men. Even with the documented rise in the was also a “very high percentage of gay really early taking care of a lot of guys, Today, the most popular procedure per- number of men getting cosmetic pro- patients”). and because of that, even after I left that formed on this group, as a gender, is Dia- cedures, some doctors claim they still “In my first year in practice I probably practice, I carried a lot of the guys with mond’s signature “The Diamond Tripar- hardly see any men at all. did more male cosmetic surgery than me. I’ve always seen a lot of men.” tite,” a surgical technique he’s tweaked Dr. Paul Nassif, the Beverly Hills plastic most surgeons do in their entire year. I’m Once he left the first practice in New and honed for 15 years that addresses surgeon who starred in “Botched,” not joking. I basically did all men for two York, the tide started to shift. He began to every layer of the neck and jawline. The another E! reality series about plastic sur- combination of three techniques includes gery, said he’s not seeing the same rapid Nassif MD augmentation to the bone, tightening increase in male patients that his peers Hydro-Screen of the muscle to secure and contour the have. He called the hoopla a “bunch of Super-Hydrating muscle near the bone and tightening of BS,” and cited “maybe 10 percent growth” Serum the skin to treat all areas. But before one in men undergoing cosmetic procedures runs to Diamond’s Beverly Hills office to like rhinoplasties. contour his jawline, know that these sur- “Men still come and have a few things geries don’t come cheap. The triple threat done — they might have a little Botox starts at about $25,000. once in a while [too]. That’s pretty much Diamond also has developed a nonsur- all I’ve seen,” Nassif stated, adding that gical version of his Tripartite (he calls it body-fat reduction with Coolsculpting and “facial sculpting”) that’s achieved using facial micro-needling and skin-tightening a combination of fillers. It was born from via radio frequency treatments like Pro- the surgical implants he’s been customiz- found are picking up speed. “There’s no ing for years, obtained by radiology and stigma, I just think that men are too busy. using putty implants to craft over bones I’m just not seeing them do that, I don’t of the face to create the exact augmenta- see the huge [spike].…They’re not coming tion he wants. in for invasive or minimally invasive “Based on that knowledge and expe- [procedures].” rience, I figured out how to nonsurgi- The only thing that has grown with cally do this without surgically placing respect to men, however, is the Nassif MD an implant. I can inject it [filler] into skin-care line he launched on HSN about the bony region the way I want it to a year-and-a-half ago. He noticed a lift in be shaped,” Diamond explained of the Millennial and male customers that was procedure, which starts at $3,900. “It’s a reflected on the direct e-commerce site way to get really sharp angulation to the nassifmdskincare.com. lateral prominences and elegant contours “Men are taking care of themselves a and it doesn’t create puffiness, roundness little better. Not surgically, but at home Dr. Paul Nassif or fullness. It creates angularity; that’s they do,” Nassif said. january 5, 2018 9

U.S.-based RZC Investments headed by Steuart and Tom Walton, grandsons of the founder of Wal-Mart. The company, which London Men’s Wear launched in 2004, continues to be run by its founder Simon Mottram and is poised to diversify this year. Last year Rapha reported sales in excess Action Is All On of 63 million pounds and has been expand- ing by more than 25 percent every year. It’s been a pioneer of experiential retail, operating cafes in many of its clubhouse the Sidelines stores where customers can sip coffee, eat cake (although not too much) and watch cycle races taking place around the world. of the Catwalk Last October the brand opened a cavern- ous clubhouse space at Bicester Village. The London men’s calendar may be shrinking, but business is lively Sarah Clark, Rapha’s chief marketing with department stores reporting strong sales and M&A activity bubbling officer, said the company ended a strong year with healthy sales over Black Friday around specialist brands. and the Christmas period. She said the brand was planning to expand more into By Samantha Conti the lifestyle arena this year. “Our on-bike apparel will of course The London men’s calendar is shrinking always form the backbone of Rapha’s as quickly as a merino knit in the tumble range, but as we look ahead to 2018 we dryer with coed shows, direct-to-consumer will be paying even further attention to strategies and financial and environmental products that fulfill customer needs to look concerns all changing the way designers great off the bike while performing on it.” and brands think about the catwalk. She added that Rapha would continue to Over the past few weeks two of Lon- put a big focus on community, pointing to don’s biggest names revealed they were the 80,000 cyclists who signed up to ride quitting the men’s runway and opting for 500 km (311 miles) over the Christmas hol- alternative formats: J.W. Anderson plans iday in the Rapha Festive 500. “Activities to fold its London men’s show into the such as this, and the connections gener- February women’s outing, while Vivienne ated through them, we see as the future,” Westwood is acting on her environmental as much as the products, Clark said. concerns with plans to e-mail editors a There are more M&A deals to digital presentation of her fall 2018 coed come. Charles S. Cohen, the American collection. The designer had been set to multibillionaire who last year bought two show on the last day of London Fashion men’s wear companies, Savile Row tailor Week Men’s, which runs from Jan. 6 to 8. Richard James and Harrys of London, said Hot London talent Martine Rose will also he’s on the hunt for more British brands. be stepping off the catwalk and creating a In particular, he said he’s looking for a look book and film for fall, while former leather goods company to round out his London calendar stalwarts including burgeoning British stable. “I’m looking E. Tautz, Casely-Hayford, Katie Eary, for a company that is maybe older than Christopher Shannon, Gieves & Hawkes Richard James — which is the ripe old age and Matthew Miller have opted to focus of 25 — another jewel that needs an injec- on private appointments or events and tion of capital and new ideas,” said Cohen, showroom sales. who plans to open the first Richard James The real men’s wear action is increas- store in New York, on Park Avenue and ingly taking place off the runway, with 57th Street, at the end of February. department stores reporting buoyant sales The 1,800-square-foot space, housed in and M&A deals bubbling around rapidly what was once the tallest residential build- growing specialist brands, some of which ing in Manhattan, will carry all the Richard have never been near a show tent. James ready-to-wear and offer bespoke and Men’s wear was among the best-per- made-to-measure services. forming departments on the first day “LVMH, of course, is the platinum of Selfridges’ winter sale on Dec. 26. The standard for this, but what I’m doing is store, which raked in more than 4 million much more narrow. I’m not looking to roll pounds in the first three hours of the sale, it up and flip it — or anything like that. I’ve said men’s wear saw “unexpectedly high” never done that with anything. I’m a big sales growth, including footwear, which believer in walking slowly. Slow and steady performed “well ahead” of expectations. wins the race,” he said. Harvey Nichols has also been seeing Cohen’s bigger vision is to sustain solid numbers. David Aquilina, head of small, specialized brands and get them men’s wear buying, said the store had to a place where they can complement robust sell-throughs on sale items and “a each other. “These are companies that really strong reaction to the new season, without someone coming along as a good especially in international designer col- shepherd, who knows what would happen lections and contemporary, with brands to them? Britain has a lot of small silos. such as Balenciaga and Stone Island What I’m looking to do is create a curated performing really well. Men’s wear is a Charles S. Cohen collection of very fine British men’s wear growth sector for us, so we expect it to companies.” perform well in 2018.” E. Tautz and Norton & Sons labels, opened business, while bricks-and-mortar stores His vision for Richard James, whose Liberty expanded its men’s department a pop-up shop called Basement at the E. are also growing. co-founder and namesake James just last August, adding 20 new brands includ- Tautz flagship on Duke Street, selling Orlebar Brown has a new concession at scooped an Order of the British Empire ing Canada Goose, Études Studio and clothing by London men’s designers Lou Harrods, a permanent space in Bicester award for services to men’s fashion in the OAMC in addition to a denim department, Dalton, Mathew Miller, Alex Mullins and Village outside Oxford and four stores in Queen’s New Year’s Honors, is to create a T-shirt gallery and a grooming service Louise Gray. the U.S., all of which have opened in the one-stop shop for tailored clothing. provided by Ruffians. Grant said he wanted to set aside a last 18 months. “It’s a tailored silhouette; it’s not for the Other new grooming destinations in dedicated space for his fellow designers Indeed, the brand has become so rugby player. There’s a masculine elegance London include Tom Ford’s first stand- who don’t have bricks-and-mortar stores hot that it’s likely to find a buyer in the to it and we’re also going to move into alone beauty store in Covent Garden, of their own, and that he plans to take on next months. It has been working since sportswear,” Cohen said. which has a room just for men staffed more brands going forward. last summer with Cavendish Corporate From a business perspective, Cohen by a barber and a butler. Beast, another Retail is thriving for the specialist men’s Finance to explore strategic options and, believes there is a lot of potential for Rich- Covent Garden store, offers a selection of brands, too, names that rarely — if ever — according to The Daily Telegraph, could ard James and other small British brands. treatments for men and a mix of products show on the catwalk. fetch 50 million pounds. Current share- “These businesses are profitable to a point, ranging from established names such as Adam Brown, founder of Orlebar holders include Venrex Investment Man- but they need an objective business view Marvis to smaller ones including DS & Brown, the men’s swim and resort brand agement and Piper Private Equity. connected to them to create economies Durga, Verso and Dr. Barbara Sturm. that has seen sales surge to more than Cycling brand Rapha is another specialty and efficiencies, to decide what works or So dynamic is the men’s retail space that 20 million pounds in 10 years, said that name that’s streaking ahead following the doesn’t, what we’d like to try and what we in December, Patrick Grant, owner of the online continues to drive the growth of the sale of a majority stake in August to the shouldn’t do anymore.” 10 january 5, 2018

menu offers the peninsula’s feet and two floors, is the greatest hits including brand’s largest space and spaghetti with clams, aims to highlight a wide Margherita pizza with buffalo assortment of coats and mozzarella, chicken Milanese the brand’s 60-year history. and grilled tuna steak. It stocks women’s, men’s Located between Harvey and children’s outerwear, Nichols and Harrods, it’s best as well as other winter to plan that carb-heavy meal accessories and archival after, rather than before, any pieces. The store’s design shopping spree. features minimalist black- — Hikmat Mohammed and-white accents, and other elements such as Harry’s Dolce Vita rustic wooden furniture and 27-31 Basil Street, photographs of skiers that Knightsbridge, London aim to highlight the brand’s SW3 1BB outdoors heritage. Also on display are the famous Peace Keeper parkas, designed for SHAPE SHIFTING the Ontario Provincial Police, Lucille Lewin is one talented who face brutal weather multitasker. The South conditions. — N.T. African native founded the Whistles high street Canada Goose Lamyland at chain in 1976 and served 244 Regent Street Selfridges. as the creative director of London Liberty from 2007 to 2008. W1B 3BR She moved onto sculpture a few years ago, gaining London Fashion Week a Diploma in Fine Art and GROUP EFFORT Ceramics from CityLit and an Patrick Grant is lending a MA from the Royal College hand to emerging London Men’s Fall 2018: The Scene of Art where she won the talents with a pop-up shop 2017 Young Masters Maylis called Basement at his E. WWD rounds the new restaurants, stores and exhibitions Grand Ceramics Prize. Today, Tautz flagship on Duke Street. to visit during the men’s wear shows in London. inspired by the history of He’s tapped Topman’s 18th-century porcelain, she creative director Gordon By WWD Staff creates sculptures from Richardson to curate the porcelain, glass and metal. offer, which includes clothing

THE LUXURY and new collections in an CONUNDRUM upbeat, colorful space with the brand’s latest, Nineties- Where is luxury going? What does it mean? Is it a inspired campaign splashed material thing? Selfridges across the walls. “This is the is looking to address those first store outside of Asia- questions with a five-month Pacific and represents a true takeover called Radical statement of intent from the Luxury. The store’s creative brand — we aim to immerse director Linda Hewson said all visitors in the fascinating Selfridges is looking at the history of Ellesse whilst also “concentration and dilution” showcasing our exclusive of luxury today, and also at its Yen restaurant. and latest collections,” said “uniqueness, ephemerality brand director Marc Greene. and transformative nature.” cial exhibition that explores wood on the ceiling to a — N.T. Through talks, events and luxury themes. bamboo sculptural piece, retail, the store plans to — Samantha Conti which are offset by more Ellesse explore issues around modern accents such as 39 Neal Street ownership — asking whether Selfridges & Co. sleek, minimalist furniture London precious or expensive things 400 Oxford Street and metallic, hand-painted WC2H 9QG even need to be owned — and London wallpaper. — Natalie Theodosi exploring age and time as, W1A 1AB @ harrysdolcevita potentially, the ultimate luxury. Yen London WILD ABOUT HARRY One star of the show will 190 Strand, 5 Arundel Street There’s another Harry in The Connolly store in Mayfair from labels such as Lou be Michèle Lamy, the artist, FASHION MEETS London town, in Knightsbridge, not is hosting Lewin’s first solo Dalton, Matthew Miller, wife and business partner of FLAVOR WC2R 3DX far from Kensington Palace. show with an exhibition of Alex Mullins and Louise Rick Owens, who happens Onward Holdings is Harry’s Dolce Vita is the 14 original porcelain and Gray. Grant said he wanted to to be a passionate, longtime flexing its muscles beyond latest outing from Caprice glass pieces. Called “The set aside a dedicated space boxing fan. Through her fashion. The luxury group is NINETIES APPEAL Holdings, which also owns Time Between the Time: A for his fellow designer friends concept Lamyland, she’ll be behind Yen, a new high-end As the revival of all things The Ivy and Sexy Fish. An Journey to Obsolescence,” who don’t have brick-and- posing the question of what Japanese restaurant on Nineties rolls forward, Italian restaurant that aims the show is about “the ending mortar stores of their own everyone is fighting for today, Strand, near the London the Italian sports brand to channel a Fifties/Sixties of one process and the and added that he’s happy to and she plans to bring in fash- Fashion Week show space. Ellesse is aiming to regain Fellini vibe, Harry’s Dolce Vita start of another,” said Lewin, welcome other brands going ion, art, music and sports into Yen specializes in handmade momentum with the opening offers all-day dining with a adding that she only works forward. Prices range from the mix. The Lamyland Corner buckwheat noodles, which of its first flagship store in menu by chef Diego Cardoso. in one color: white. “I live 20 pounds for a Community Shop is filled with special are offered with other the U.K. The store, located White truffles are on offer entirely in white. My clothes, Clothing T-shirt to 1,000 collaborations and a mix of traditional Japanese dishes at Covent Garden’s Seven — on pasta, beef, risotto and my bedroom, my home. It is pounds for a Matthew Miller labels from fashion to sports. including sushi, robata and Dials, stocks both heritage pizza — and the rest of the peaceful.” The show will run leather jacket. Both Gray and On Feb. 1, an exclusive branch tempura. The restaurant, until February. — H.M. Mullins have done one-off of BXR boxing gym will open which has high ceilings exclusives for the store, which in the store’s basement. overlooking the Thames, Connolly is to remain open indefinitely. Later this spring, the store was designed by Sybarite, 4 Clifford Street, The basement space has a is also planning to open a the architectural firm behind London gallery feel, as it had already temporary retail destination the retail designs for brands W1S 2LG housed the E. Tautz 150th dedicated to fashion and such as Joseph and Marni. anniversary photo exhibition. singularity. It will be filled with Sybarite cofounder Simon — Lorelei Marfil limited editions and one-offs Mitchell described the GOING BIG such as Thom Browne’s uni- restaurant’s design as a Canada Goose has Basement corn dress and a selection of blend of “traditional Japanese expanded its European retail 71 Duke Street Jil Sander shirts, one for each craftsmanship” and “a The new footprint with the opening Mayfair, London day. In April the store is also contemporary, timeless Ellesse store of its first U.K. flagship store W1K 5NX planning to take over the Old backdrop.” He pointed to his at Covent on Regent Street. The store, Selfridges Hotel with a spe- choice of Japanese maple Garden. which spans 5,000 square january 5, 2018 11

Belstaff “This season we celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Trialmaster jacket, which gave me an opportunity to revisit our British roots and present our Made in U.K. collection. Looking through our Trialmaster history led me to explore English youth subcultures and how our jackets have been adopted and customized since the Fifties. The Liam Hodges iconic silhouettes from this era “It’s about escaping including the field, parka and life, going to Noel’s biker jackets have been updated house party and the this season with added adventures of kids’ functionality and modern coloring books.” fabrications. The hero piece of the collection is the anniversary Trialmaster, which is entirely manufactured in the U.K., in a new tumbled coated cotton and London Fashion reflective tape with badges, celebrating our heritage.” Week Men’s Fall — Delphine Ninous, 2018: Inspirations creative director Designers share their inspirations ahead of their shows at London Fashion Week Men’s.

By Natalie Theodosi

From skiing to winning the lottery, London men’s wear designers looked to a wide range of subjects for inspiration for their fall 2018 collections. Qasimi Christopher Raeburn Here, some of the topics that sparked their creativity ahead of the “The fall 2018 Qasimi man “A deep dive into the big blue. is a modern nomad. An ex- shows, which begin on Saturday. The collection stands as a treme traveler who tackles creative call to arms and life as an adventure to focuses on responsible design discover new horizons, Wood Wood Phoebe English and sourcing to protect both cultures, lives and customs “The collection explores new planet and wearer.” “The fall 2018 but also journeys into surfaces and fine, almost delicate collection is himself.” — Khalid Qasimi, garment details across traditional built upon designer Wood Wood’s wearable men’s wear shapes. A aim to reflect transition from utilitarian our core daywear to include clothing with a values, taking smarter edge is hinted at.” inspiration from films like ‘The Breakfast Club’ and ‘St. Elmo’s Fire.’” — Karl- Oskar Olsen, cofounder Blood Brother “This season we have explored the concept of quick wins and instant success looking mostly at the first era of the national lottery and some of its infamous winners.” — Nick Biela, creative director

Band of Outsiders Lou Dalton Astrid Andersen “The collection is inspired by winter sports and ski “Raw. Sensual. Calm.” “Fall 2018 is about resorts. The chic but playful vibe of the Alpine skier remembering the Buffalo and the good old-fashioned après-ski party era in London and the huge fits Band of Outsiders’ typical style of mixing great importance it’s had on my fun with high quality. The theme is the red line design aesthetic.” throughout the collection as well as the reason for our presentation being on ice.” — Angelo Van Mol, head designer

Edward Crutchley “This season’s collection explores the use of graphics across different textile media to create a contrast of texture and sense of richness. Looking at A-Cold-Wall artisanal craft techniques and how these are still “Fall 2018 is a conceptual expression and relevant to the future of continuation of the A-Cold-Wall narrative that contemporary fashion connects parallels found throughout the many grounds, this season’s mood facets of British society.” has a tactile context.” — Samuel Ross, designer 12 january 5, 2018

London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2018: Ones to Watch British designers on the rise are getting set to present their collections during London Fashion Week Men’s.

By Lorelei Marfil Photographs By KASIA RUCINSKA

John Alexander A-Cold-Wall on the brand’s men’s leather Skelton Now in its fourth season, accessories. Fletcher also Born and raised in York, John A-Cold-Wall has been picked mentored Antonio Banderas Alexander Skelton received up by Selfridges, Oki-Ni, 18 Mon- when the actor was study- his master’s in fashion men’s trose and Leclaireur in France. ing fashion design at Saint wear at Central Saint Martins Designer Samuel Ross Martins. He also consulted on and took on internships at E. launched A-Cold-Wall in 2015, J.W. Anderson’s men’s wear John and the label is known for its this season. Tautz and Patrik Ervell before Alexander “It has actually given me a launching his label last year. deconstructed workwear and Skelton A-Cold-Wall Selected by Giles Deacon, oversized silhouettes. lot of freedom,” said Fletcher Skelton is a recipient of the This season Ross said he of consulting at J.W. Anderson. Sarabande scholarship, an plans to explore heavy outer- “The team is a lot bigger there initiative from The Lee Alex- wear and expand on his fabric and to have the support of a ander McQueen Foundation offer. “Wools and knitted fabrics whole atelier, fabric and prod- that aids young designers. He are a new direction for us,” he uct developers and everyone is working out of a studio at said. “Although it’s uncharted else there has allowed me Sarabande in east London. territory, I have a concise idea to be more free in the way Sustainability is a key of what I wish to achieve within I design, as I don’t have the theme for Skelton, who this specific fabric category. It’s restrictions that come with incorporates repurposed building very well.” being a small brand.” materials into his ranges and Ross said the business is Fletcher is currently takes a DIY approach to his expanding: The company has stocked in 16 stores and work. He has a loom in his stu- increased its global accounts works with his sales team dio and many of his fabrics to 52 retailers and moved from Awaykin. “We have are handwoven, as is much of mainline production to Italy. focused on working with one his knitwear. “Everything I dye “Our goal over this last quar- key store in major capitals is also done by hand using ter has been analyzing the and then making sure we natural dye. The handcrafted data over the course of the work closely with them to get element is my signature, in a past year, and to control and a good sell through,” he said. way,” said the designer. structure our growth further,” “This seems to have worked For fall 2018, Skelton has he said. “It’s about forming and my production is running been working with mills in predictions and forecasting smoothly now so we are Ireland, mixing British wool when specific activations, hoping to increase that this and Irish linen. content and targets must be season. But I want to make “I have been doing a lot of achieved and rolled out.” sure that those stores that hand weaving, as well, on the A-Cold-Wall’s runway show have supported me from the loom. I have also done a few will take place at 3 p.m. at the beginning are prioritized. I natural dyes this time, one BFC Show Space on Jan. 8. haven’t had any investment using an ancient European yet, but this is something I dye, the European version of Daniel Fletcher would consider if I find the indigo, called woad,” he said. Daniel Fletcher plans to right person. Cash flow is the Skelton’s main focus has shake up the way he show- biggest challenge for me as Daniel Fletcher Wood Wood always been on the process cases his range by opening well as running the business, and materials with unisex with a catwalk show at The In- so to have some support on Wood Wood a mind of his own who has a taken inspiration from films silhouettes that are suitable stitute of Contemporary Arts, that would help me to take Danish label Wood Wood cultural consciousness and is like ‘The Breakfast Club’ and for men and women, such as where models will assemble the brand to the next level.” will make its London Fashion interested in street culture. ‘St. Elmo’s Fire’ — films from a hand-crochet knit sweater in a standing formation. He Fletcher will be launching Week Men’s debut with a The designers both attend- our youth about growing up, or a long-knitted overcoat. also plans to collaborate with with Ssense — his first on- presentation on Jan. 6 at ed the Royal Danish Academy and the state of mind we Prices range from 400 a number of artists to create line-only stockist — in January a location that’s yet to be of Fine Arts and launched were in, going from lazy teens pounds for a shirt to 5,000 the set. and he has started working confirmed. their label after Olsen, who to becoming more ‘responsi- pounds for a coat. The label “It’s quite grand and with a few more stores in Launched in 2002 by studied spatial design, gradu- ble’ as an adult. is stocked in Dover Street traditional,” said Fletcher of Tokyo such as Opening Cer- childhood friends Karl-Oskar ated in 2002. Jensen studied “We’ve taken bits and Market London, Dover Street the venue. “But I am hoping emony, Beams International Olsen and Brian Jensen, the visual communication and pieces from here and there Market Ginza and Ware Mo to bring something modern Gallery and Urban Research. Copenhagen-based brand graduated in 2007. and transformed it into a Kou in Japan. to it. I feel like dressing a little He said he wants to develop is known for its streetwear The brand has collaborat- modern ‘Americana” look,’” Skelton, who has shown more formally, myself, in the his e-commerce business aesthetic. It has shown during ed previously with a number he added, “a rich variation of off-season in the past, will be winter, so there are a lot of next year. “It has been a Copenhagen Fashion Week, of labels including the likes of fabrics like corduroy, nappy presenting his fall collection pieces which people have strong part of my business and during Berlin and New Nike, Adidas, Converse, Onit- wool, denim and nylon. The at 8:30 p.m. on Jan. 5 at St. come to expect from me — since I started,” said Fletcher. York fashion weeks. suka Tiger, Champion, East- most significant artworks Mark’s Church in Dalston. He silk shirts, leather pieces “But I feel there is a lot more “London is important as pak, Barbour and Penfield. are the patchwork story said that deciding to show his and sportswear base layers I could be doing, and there a fashion metropolis. The Prices range from 35 along the youth-addressed range during men’s fashion underpin the collection — but are huge benefits for a brand best designers in the world pounds for a cap to 450 placement: ‘leave me alone week was dictated by his it doesn’t feel quite as sporty being able to sell directly to are from London and I see it pounds for a leather jacket. with your own attention,’ ‘fan sales strategy. “I have been this season.” our customers, both in terms as a test on where we are,” The label is stocked in Liberty, club’ and ‘before and after,’ looking to take my private Fletcher, who launched his of profits and understanding said Olsen. “If we can make Goodhood, Harvey Nichols, which is a direct hint to the appointment sales to London label last year, has built quite how people buy and wear the a successful presentation Le Bon Marche and Isetan. transformation from youth to from Paris,” said Skelton. He a résumé since graduating products.” in London we must be doing “We don’t change our adultness.” said he plans to show annually. from Central Saint Martins. Fletcher will stage his something right.” concept season to season Wood Wood will stage a He was snapped up by Kim presentation from 1:30 to 3 Olsen describes the Wood but try to reflect the times we presentation from 2:30 to Jones at Louis Vuitton to work p.m. on Jan. 7. Wood man as a person with live in,” said Olsen. “We have 4:30 p.m. on Jan. 6. january 5, 2018 13

men’s What to watch: The 2018 Outlook

perimeter of the store and theater seats sit in the center. The outside of the flagship features a marquee and a ticket window. Sneaker Chains Constrict When the store is closed, a screen comes Although the sneaker down over the storefront that streams movies throughout the night. They’ve also market is performing decreased the amount of inventory they well and specialty sell in store to only display a top selection boutiques are of the brands they carry. Bodega, a Boston-based streetwear expanding, larger and sneaker retailer that’s known for its sneaker retailers will faux-bodega storefront that leads to a store, is opening a shop in Los Angeles. have to adapt to the Sneakersnstuff, which was founded by Erik shifting market. Fagerlind and Peter Jansson in Sweden almost 20 years ago, opened its first New By Aria Hughes York store in December. The 3,500-square- While the demand for sneakers con- foot shop, which was designed by Jenny tinues to increase, it’s no longer enough Askenfors of Bofink Design Studio, features to sell them in a run-of-the-mill retail a basement bar that will be open to the environment. public and will showcase exhibitions and Larger chains including Foot Locker, activations on the first floor. which closed 24 U.S. stores in 2017, and Sneakersnstuff Fagerlind said Sneakersnstuff does 80 Shiekh Shoes, a West Coast retailer with store in New York. percent of its business online, but physical 120 stores that filed for bankruptcy in retail remains a significant part of its growth November, must adapt to a changing con- is an incredible demand for rare sneakers suppliers’ desire to sell their products in strategy and maintaining its relationships sumer who wants to buy special product but when it comes to the general release premium environments. with big vendors. “In a world where every- in a thoughtful space and is inundated sneakers like Air Jordans, the supply doesn’t Specialty sneaker boutiques are investing thing is available and accessible, you have with alternative ways to purchase shoes meet the demand. Some of these guys have in just these types of spaces while regional to provide a little bit more than product,” — whether that’s an e-commerce site, relied on the old model that every Saturday retailers are becoming global players. he said. “You have to provide the service to specialty boutique, resale app, or a festival an Air Jordan is going to sell out, but that’s Extra Butter, a sneaker chain that was be relevant with your consumer.” and marketplace like ComplexCon or not always going to hold true today.” cofounded by Jason Faustino, Ankur and Wu believes that retailers such as Foot Sneaker Con. Shiekh Shoes owes $16 million to Nike, Nick Amin in 2007, spent close to $1 mil- Locker are too big to fail, but they will “Today I think we have a few too many and the store’s founder, Shiekh Ellahi, attri- lion to renovate its Lower East Side shop have to respond to the market — quickly sneaker stores in the U.S.,” said Yu-Ming butes his troubles to the shrinking demand in Manhattan to mimic a movie theater. — especially as Nike expands its pilot Wu, the cofounder of Sneaker Con. “There for bricks-and-mortar retailers as well as Sneakers and clothes are displayed on the with Amazon.

and characterized the company’s slowing percent in the third quarter to $36.9 sales as more related to growing pains than million, with strength at both its flagship Men’s Market Sees Shift fundamental problems. Men’s Wearhouse chain as well as Jos. A. But Under Armour is not alone in having Bank. The company is the largest specialty In Areas of Strength its issues. Even Nike has seen its North retailer of suits and formalwear in the U.S. American business slow. In the second and operates 1,480 stores. Ath-leisure is slowing The profits took a hit of $89 million in quarter, the company said profits fell 9 per- In the period, comparable-store sales costs related to a restructuring plan the cent to $767 million and its sales in North at Jos. A. Bank rose 4.9 percent and fell 1 while streetwear company revealed in August that is intended America declined 5 percent to $3.49 billion. percent at Men’s Wearhouse, but company and clothing are to provide more financial and operational Last fall, Nike had said it would fine-tune its ceo Doug Ewert revealed that both busi- flexibility. After bringing in an outsider distribution and move away from what it nesses were notching increases in comps seeing a rebound. — former Aldo executive Patrik Frisk as called “undifferentiated” retailers. Instead in the fourth quarter. By Jean E. Palmieri president and chief operating officer — other it is extending its initial test partnership Among the most popular categories, moves included several hundred layoffs, a with Amazon and also implementing Ewert said, was custom clothing, which For several years it was ath-leisure that new head of women’s and footwear and the another pilot with Stitch Fix, albeit for is selling at a rate of $2 million a week, as was the biggest buzzword in the men’s wear discontinuation of the highly touted Tim women’s wear initially. well as the new Travel Tech collection of industry. Now it’s sneakers and streetwear. Coppens-designed UAS high-end fashionable As Nike ceo Mark Parker put it at the Jos. A. Bank. As a result, some of the brands that rode sportswear line. Instead of the Coppens line, time: “While the athletic marketplace con- Sport coats and outerwear were also the activewear wave have hit a bit of a road- Under Armour will now focus on a rotating tinues to shift, we’re very confident in the among the categories cited as solid perform- block, notably Under Armour and Nike. group of collaborators such as A$AP Rocky, factors of our business that we control.” ers by retailers during the just-completed Once the highest-flying performer in whose collection for the brand is expected But men can’t wear sneakers and holiday selling season, with Bob Mitchell, the activewear arena, Under Armour in to be released later this year. layered tops all the time — much as they co-ceo of Mitchells Stores, saying tailored October posted its first-ever quarterly sales Founder and chief executive officer might like to. And so, on the other end clothing actually exceeded his expectations. decline, a 5 percent year-over-year drop to Kevin Plank — who has been criticized of the spectrum, tailored clothing is also Rothmans cited sport coats, dress slacks and $1.4 billion. Profits fell during the quarter as of late for paying more attention to his experiencing a resurgence. outerwear as top sellers, and Brooks Broth- well, with net income totaling $54.2 million, private investment company than to Under The leader in the category, Tailored ers did well with shirts and sweaters — the

compared with $128.2 million a year ago. Armour — has called 2017 a “reset” year Brands, reported that profits rose 30 perfect complement to a suit or sport coat. G licksberg Kate by P hotograph 14 january 5, 2018

a cease-and-desist letter. That turned into us getting the license and we are going to How Emerging Streetwear use that to work on collaborations with Chi- natown Market and other brands. It’s a big deal because it allows me to do more global business and more authentic business. I Brands Are Navigating 2018 would usually have to go more rogue. WWD: What do you think is the shelf Guillermo Andrade of A look life for your brand and streetwear from 424. brands in general? 424, Mike Cherman of M.C.: That’s all up to the people who cre- Chinatown Market, and ate it. I could let this thing die in a year and Luke Tadashi of Bristol I could go start two or five more of these. The reality is it’s just about how you adapt. outline what they have A lot of these people can’t adapt. A lot of planned for 2018 and these brands need to keep that cash flow to upkeep the business. For me it’s a one-man where they see the show and I work with a bunch of freelanc- business going. ers. I don’t have a lot of overhead. WWD: What do you foresee for street- By Aria Hughes wear in 2018? What’s next for streetwear? Critics of M.C.: A lot of the big players who were the category say the frenzy — see Com- middle of the ground are going to have plexCon or the crowds that form around the bottom fall out. Brands like Diamond Supreme every week — is unsustainable and Supply Co. that have seen massively declin- unhealthy for the market. Newer brands, ing sales. But there is a home for a lot of meanwhile, believe it’s an ideal time to those brands. They might go to the mall. expand their businesses. Here, three young In general the business is going to keep on streetwear brands detail how they will pushing more direct-to-consumer. I did a approach the year and what they believe is collaboration with Pleasures on a gunshot in the pipeline for the category. Smiley T-shirt and a season later 10 Deep came out with the same graphic. It wasn’t 424 that he copied us, it’s that his calendar is Guillermo Andrade opened his Los way longer than ours. There is no more Angeles concept store, FourTwoFour, information that’s unobtainable, but it’s which is located on Fairfax, in 2010. about how you use it and how agile you are. He sold pieces from Fear of God along with more established firms such as Bristol Rick Owens and Thom Browne. By 2014, Luke Tadashi, a California native, intro- Andrade started his own line, 424, that’s duced Bristol a couple of years ago. The been picked up by retailers including line, which is sold at American Rag and Barneys New York and SSENSE. Fred Segal, draws from NBA players’ on- WWD: What do you think about the and off-court style during the early Aughts. current state of streetwear? Tadashi, who won 2016’s Gen Art men’s Guillermo Andrade: It seems to me that wear designer of the year award, has shown it is very positive. The amount of opportu- at New York Fashion Week: Men’s for a few nity out there for a young brand like mine is A look from seasons, but he’s making some changes to exponential. Chinatown the assortment for 2018. WWD: How do you plan on navigat- Market. WWD: What’s happening for 2018? ing the industry in 2018? Luke Tadashi: We are restructuring the G.A.: Amongst the sea of hype and all the brand. There’s going to be Stud-O, which noise around hot brands, there is one thing is a year-round offering of elevated basics that cannot be forgotten and that is product that speaks to our sports ethos. All of those is king. I will continue to focus on the garments are going to be reversible and product as well as creative ways of adjusting sold direct-to-consumer on our web site to production to have a faster turnaround time keep the price point down. It will be slightly from concept to market. Creating hype and more affordable than Collect-On, which is all that is cool, but you need the structure the seasonal collection that will have more to back it up, or else Zara will come in and narrative-driven pieces that are based on make all the money from your ideas. a theme. The Collect-On line is also meant WWD: What are your plans for to sit in wholesale accounts. The goal is to wholesale? speak to larger issues in society and culture. G.A.: We open up wholesale accounts WWD: Why are you dividing the every season, but only with partners assortment? that we really see as a long-term fit. That L.T.: Just doing a line with a sports influ- approach will remain. The growth of our ence felt limiting. I felt like I wanted to say business will be at a steady incline with more as a designer and I wanted to touch honest growth. I try to look at the industry A look on culture in a way that extended beyond as a sphere, not a point A to B approach. from sport influence. We have to think in every single growth Bristol. WWD: What do you think about the possibility, tangible and intangible. state of streetwear? WWD: What do you think about New York to Los Angeles and introduced been in these retailers since the first season. L.T.: Things have gotten kind of crazy. private equity groups’ investment in Chinatown Market, a streetwear line influ- I find the fashion industry game very funny. People aren’t buying into things because streetwear? Are you open to this? enced by the spirit of Canal Street, in 2016 Streetwear brands are meant to grow. They they think it’s cool. They are buying stuff G.A.: I think it shows a tremendous at ComplexCon. The line is sold at retailers aren’t meant to stay small. Some people just because someone else said it’s cool. But I amount of growth in our field and that it’s including Zumiez and Urban Outfitters. don’t want to accept the fact that streetwear think streetwear has space to evolve with demanding real attention from big business WWD: How is the Chinatown Market can be a viable thing. With all the ugly s--t a brand like ours through distinct story- because there is big money in it. I am, of business different from the way you that’s out there, there’s also a lot of beauti- telling. I hope we can carve out a space for course, open to partnership in the right operated ICNY? ful stuff happening within the category. ourselves within the streetwear culture, but spirit that is aligned with us for the type of Michael Cherman: After ICNY, I wanted WWD: How are you doing financially? we are saying something a little bit deeper. company that I want to grow. to create something that let me get some Are you interested in investors? WWD: Do you think that’s what the fun ideas off. I wanted to remove the M.C.: Chinatown Market makes money. consumer will want? Chinatown Market headache of running a calendar business There are people who want to be really cool L.T.: That’s what I’m betting on. Abso- Chinatown Market was founded by and release things when I wanted to. I don’t and people who care about the business. I lutely. I think that authenticity is superim- Mike Cherman in 2016. He had previously have as much overhead and headache that care about the business. At the end of the portant. I think telling an original narrative started ICNY, a line of reflective apparel came with ICNY and having a big wholesale day it’s just cotton and there’s no culture is superimportant. Taking a stance and that was sold in retailers ranging from business. left in this industry. But I have no interest in standing for something is important as Pacific Sunwear to Colette. After a series WWD: What are your thoughts about working with investors anymore. opposed to following the trend wave. of setbacks with the brand, including a wholesale now? WWD: What’s going on for 2018? WWD: How are things financially? contention of its trademark from DKNY, M.C.: It’s funny. We partner with Urban M.C.: We got the Smiley license for 2018. Are you looking for investors this year? his investor decided to liquidate ICNY. Outfitters and Zumiez and I saw people For the first season we made a T-shirt L.T.: We are starting to look for outside Cherman, who designs and consults for in the industry tweeting about the brand with our logo, which is a Smiley face, and investors. I think that with all of the plans we

exter N avy D exter by 424 photograph other companies, has since moved from being dead now because of that, but we’ve Urban Outfitters bought it. Smiley sent us have this year, financial growth is necessary. january 5, 2018 15

beauty

the purchase of Native, and a group of exec- utives, including Darryl McCall, who was with Coty and P&G, have joined to form a Beauty M&A Stays Strong special-purpose acquisition vehicle, Legacy Acquisition Corp., that lists beauty as one of Bankers in the space expect to see new entrants to the industry, Stifel analyst Mark Astrachan. “I’m not its focuses in filings with the U.S. Securities big companies making small investments convinced of it.” and Exchange Commission. say digitally native and folks playing all along the beauty value “The next generation of acquisitions While the large public players — like the companies are chain — from manufacturers to digital agen- are going to be the most digitally inspired, Estée Lauder Cos. and L’Oréal — may not cies to technology to retailers.” heavy in social media, heavy in influencer have any obvious portfolio holes, it’s likely likely acquisition Companies expected to come up for sale marketing and finding [differentiated] ways they will continue to make acquisitions that targets for 2018. or complete an investment transaction in to consumers,” said Shaun Westfall, manag- indicate what future trends they intend to 2018 include Arbonne, Array Marketing, ing director at Jefferies. participate in, according to Stifel’s Astra- By Allison Collins Cover FX, Not Your Mother’s, Derma E, “If anything, demand should increase chan. In the U.S., large strategic buyers will Ouai, Farmacy, Milani and This Works, because going into 2018 you’ve got all the also have more money to spend following Forecasting beauty M&A in 2018 is a according to industry sources. Coty has also pieces of the puzzle,” Intrepid’s Davis tax reform, he noted. cinch — there will be more deals. publicly said it hopes to sell a portion of its added. “All major strategics are active.… Of all the beauty companies, Astrachan The dynamics remain auspicious: Large portfolio in 2018, and sources have indi- You’ve got a bunch of platforms in place predicted Coty would be the most likely to beauty players will look for growth by cated digitally native brands such as Gloss- and new platforms that formed in 2017 that “want to do material M&A” but said that acquiring smaller companies. An influx of ier, which is said to be fund-raising again, or didn’t exist [before].” right now, it is limited by the amount of beauty newcomers competing for deals will Thrive Cosmetics, could generate interest. Davis is referring to an influx of players debt it has on its balance sheet. But when likely keep prices high. A lack of mid-size Anastasia Beverly Hills has also been seen in the beauty space. New entrants in 2017 the two-year anniversary of Coty’s Procter targets means deals are likely to be on the testing the market. included Winona Capital, which recruited & Gamble specialty beauty portfolio deal large or small side. Color deals are expected to slow slightly Space NK founder Nicky Kinnaird and closes in October 2018, it will free up the “While 2017 was one of the greatest for 2018, as many large makeup companies Frederic Fekkai alum Lori Perella Krebs tax burden on the Coty shareholders, vintages ever in terms of the quality of the have already been sold or taken investment. for Ancora, which invested in Indie Lee; which could potentially set the company assets, 2018 still seems to be a pretty prodi- Plus, consumers and acquirers have taken a Eurazeo, which hired former Estée Lauder up to do another sizable deal, according to gious year,” said Andrew Shore, managing renewed interest in skin and hair care. Cos. Inc. executive Jill Granoff to head Astrachan. director at Moelis & Co. “We’re just at the “You’ll see activity in a bit of a contin- Eurazeo brands, which acquired Nest, and “For these companies, it’s a question of tip of the iceberg…I think the pendulum has uation with 2017 with skin and hair, and Warburg Pincus, which tapped former what they think will be the trends they need begun to shift to skin and hair.” you’ll see some color peppered in there as Revlon chief executive officer Alan Ennis for to play in the future,” Astrachan said. “So “The beauty M&A environment will con- well,” said Steve Davis, managing director Glansaol, which bought Clark’s Botanicals, skin care and natural skin care would be tinue to be robust in 2018,” agreed Vennette at Intrepid Investment Bankers. Julep and Laura Geller. something any or all believe they’ll compete Ho, managing director at Financo. “Even “I’m not sure chasing more makeup is In addition to private equity interest, in, and it’s either innovate on existing prod- beyond the typical brand acquisition, we necessarily what you’re going to see,” said P&G got back into acquisition mode with ucts or acquire something new.”

L’Oréal that neither party could increase its stake in L’Oréal during the lifetime of Liliane Bettencourt, the sole child of the com- pany’s founder, or six months after her death, which happened on Sept. 21. That means the countdown has begun, and starting on March 21 the parties no longer have to work in concert. (Each has been free to offer its shares to any third party since April 2014.) Financial analysts have outlined a few main scenarios that could unfurl, includ- ing the companies maintaining their status quo; L’Oréal buying back Nestlé’s stake — partially financed by the sale of its 9.4 percent stake in Sanofi, or Nestlé either upping its share in the beauty giant or acquiring the company outright. The first and second possibilities are consid- ered the most likely. During a conference call with analysts on Sept. 26, Nestlé chief executive officer Mark Schneider said the company had no intention of changing its L’Oréal holding. At the time, he explained, “Our approach to this investment is currently not chang- ing. I just wanted to [make] that clear. “This has been a very close, a very longstanding partnership,” Schneider continued. “This has been a fabulous investment for the company. The con- tribution to our earnings is not that far away from the share of market cap that it represents and hence, this investment is not diluting anything. It has been a good thing for the company.” The long-standing Will Nestlé maintain stake in L’Oréal? Nestlé already pared down its L’Oréal shareholder agreement Only time will tell. holding in a multistep transaction that Nestlé’s March 21 is the expiration date of the closed in July 2014, when the company between the Swiss longstanding shareholder agreement trimmed its stake from 29.4 percent to conglomerate and the between the Swiss conglomerate and 23.3 percent. Bettencourt family the Bettencourt family — L’Oréal’s two The Swiss concern has been feeling Stake in largest individual shareholders, with increased pressure regarding L’Oréal expires on March 21. stakes of 23.3 percent and 33.05 percent, since last summer, when activist investor respectively. Dan Loeb argued the group should divest By Jennifer Weil L’Oréal The principle terms of the pact outline its holding, calling it nonstrategic. D ogan Shutterstock/M by P hotograph 16 january 5, 2018

Prestige Beauty Considers Amazon Prestige beauty brands are increasingly weighing Amazon launches.

By Allison Collins

Is 2018 the year more prestige beauty brands will bow to Amazon pressure? Perhaps. “We’ve had a lot of conversations with high-end brands, especially luxury beauty brands, that are saying, ‘We need to have an Amazon strategy, how do we do that?’” said Elaine Kwon, a former Amazon employee Amazing Cosmetics and cofounder of Kwontified, which works Illuminate primer in Bronze. Wunder2 Super-Stay Liner with fashion and beauty brands on their Amazon launches before they happen and less, bigger prestige-type assets sold on best known for its complexion products, The balancing act for beauty brands on their Amazon strategies as they sell Amazon,” Astrachan said. “Whether it will had mulled over Amazon for a while before between wholesale and retail relationships through the marketplace. be a lot of them or a jailbreak is unlikely, taking the leap in late 2017. and Amazon is a precarious one. Ama- “More and more brands, especially within but I do think selectively the bigger brands “We were almost ready to launch last year zon debuts are widely known to damage the higher-end divisions of not only beauty will want to work with Amazon in a bigger and pulled,” said Amazing founder Sue Katz relationships with retail partners, industry but also fashion overall, are approaching way…It’s beneficial to their own revenue in October. “I think the climate’s changed. sources said. Amazon in a number of ways,” Kwon said. trends, it reduces dependence on depart- Everything’s changed about retail — where “There are some luxury brands you’ll “The bottom line is ‘we have to do some- ment stores and if the right deal is struck, she’s going to buy and how she’s buying find at Sephora [that] are now launching thing about it.’ What that entails manifests Amazon potentially helps police some of and it’s really up to us as a brand to find her on Amazon,” Kwon said. “Some of them differently depending on the brand.” the pirated third party-sold beauty products and make ourselves available where she is feel confident in the relationship they have Stifel analyst Mark Astrachan agreed it’s that are already on the site.” and cater to her habits. It became extremely with channels like Sephora, and others say, likely more prestige lines will trickle onto Many prestige beauty brands have taken clear to us that Amazon is where she is.” ‘We’re going to be careful,’ but they also Amazon throughout 2018 — especially the Amazon plunge already and for some Professional brands have also made say, ‘We have to do this…if we don’t do it because even if brands don’t sell on the the platform drives a significant portion of the plunge. L’Oréal dipped a toe in the ourselves, someone else is going to do it.’” site directly, their products have a strong sales. Oribe, for example, a professional Amazon pool in the U.S. when it launched “Someone else” means a third-party chance of winding up there anyway via hair-care brand with retail has been selling French pharmacy brand Vichy on the seller, which may be selling a product in a unauthorized third-party sellers. its $49 shampoos and $52 conditioners on Luxury Beauty site a few years ago — and manner that doesn’t provide a good experi- “I’d be willing to bet you’d see more, not the platform for a few years. Amazing Cos- it’s done well, growing double-digits on ence, Kwon said. metics, a concealer-focused line that sold in the platform, senior vice president Carole High-end merchandise hasn’t always Amazon prestige retailers, has refocused its strategy Diarra told WWD in 2017. Now L’Oréal is been considered a natural fit for Amazon to prioritize Amazon, QVC and Ulta Beauty testing the platform with professional hair and many beauty sources have criticized over Sephora. brand Pureology, which sells its products the way the beauty category is presented Wunder2 — more of a masstige proposi- on a new Salon & Spa page on Amazon’s as unsightly. But Kwon says Amazon’s high- tion — opened Amazon shortly following a beauty site, complete with videos and a er-end partnerships outside of the beauty launch on its own site after the realization salon-booking option. category, like with Zappos and ShopBop, that that’s where the customer wanted to But not all brands are Amazon friendly. which control pricing, have done well. shop. Now the business allows customers At the Estée Lauder Cos., chief executive “Most of the brands, even if they start out to shop for its signature Wunderbrow prod- officer Fabrizio Freda has repeatedly stated doing it that way to dip their toe into Ama- uct, about $20, and other goods via voice that the company’s brands are staying zon…realize, ‘Ah, well OK, we’re having order with Amazon Alexa. About 25 percent away from the platform, focusing instead good traction on this platform, what would of the brand’s sales come from Amazon. on specialty retail, their own e-commerce happen if we owned that entirely?’ That’s Amazing Cosmetics, a prestige brand operations and alternatives like T-Mall. also turning heads,” Kwon said.

Is Hydrogen the Next Big Beauty Ingredient?

The element — thought Hydrogen Mist, Hale Cosmeceuticals with H2 Rapid Diffusion Therapy Cream and to neutralize free The Lotus line of Lotus Leaf Mists. radicals and increase “Because the South Korean market is energy — is popping so competitive, when there is something developed overseas, South Korean compa- up in skin care and nies go to find these new ingredients and ingestibles. differentiate through them,” said Alicia Yoon, founder of Peach and Lily. “Some- By Layla Ilchi times smaller brands pick up on these new developments first. Once a medi- Beauty is getting a hydrogen boost. um-size brand does, it’ll spread quickly.” While the element has been used in In the U.S. market, Dr. Jart+ carries traditional healing remedies, like the Jap- its Dermaclear line, a collection of six anese Shin’nooru practice of drinking and products infused with hydrogen mineral bathing in hydrogen-infused water, it has water said to remove impurities and recently washed into more skin care and create a healthy complexion. Dr. Nicholas ingestible-beauty offerings. Perricone’s Perricone MD launched the In South Korea, where beauty compa- H2 Elemental Energy collection last April, nies are on the pulse of the latest inno- which includes a hydrating serum, firming vations, smaller brands have been able foam mask, hydrating cream and depuffing to infuse hydrogen — which is purported eye gel that are said to re-energize the skin. to neutralize free radicals, hydrate Perricone MD H2 On the ingestible side, Perricone also and soothe — into skin-care products. Elemental Energy launched his Hydrogen Water last year, a Because hydrogen is the smallest atom, drink that is said to energize the user, neu- it penetrates the skin faster than other three products: a Hydrogen Rejuvenate brightening cream, jelly cleanser and a hot tralize free radicals and remove cellular ingredients. Mask, Yuza Snow Ice Cooling Cream and and cold pore mask all containing hydro- waste. HFactor, a beverage company that Lisse, a South Korean skin-care brand an Exigent Ampoule System touted to firm gen as the main ingredient. launched in 2013, offers a similar hydrogen that entered Anthropologie last year, uses and brighten skin. This year, the brand is Other South Korean brands that have water that is supposed to reduce muscle

A llmy Shutterstock/ by photograph A mazon hydrogen as the hero ingredient in its launching an exfoliating oil, oil cleanser, employed hydrogen include DMCK with fatigue and inflammation. january 5, 2018 17

retailers are doing their part to stay relevant for a consumer who wants trends fast and would rather shop for them online or in specialty channels. Target is among the retailers doing the beauty heavy lifting in beauty aisles. Banishing the bland atmosphere endemic to mass-market beauty retailing characterized by rows and rows of pegged cosmetics, Target created a At the newly opened Manhattan store, this department that invites product discovery. concept is being tested on NYX fixtures. Gondola heights are lower, lights are more Last year saw the introduction of Forever conducive to testing shades and there is 21’s edgy beauty brand emporium Riley a service counter for consultations and Rose, now in eight locations and set to swatching. More than 400 stores will get expand in 2018. At the Bridgewater Crossing the white-glove treatment by the end of Mall in Bridgewater, N.J., the 5,000-square- 2018. Other core departments in the new foot space houses a slew of South Korean look are men’s, natural personal care and brands and niche lines not commonly Sephora Studio more South Korean-inspired lines. found at bricks-and-mortar retail. Riley staff will provide Not to be outdone, Wal-Mart is installing Rose also offers plenty of space to experi- makeover and more gadgets in aisles, such as iPads to help ment, with ample tester stations and iPads mini-facial services. with product selection. Stalwart brands are displaying how-to-videos stationed across being joined by up-and-coming lines, espe- the store. cially those for multicultural consumers. Retailers will have to contend with the More and more stores will sport sparkling growing number of monobrand beauty white fixturing and shelves stocked with stores as well. In the mass space, E.l.f. and Retailers trends at the same time they are launched NYX Professional Makeup both ramped at prestige. up freestanding store efforts in 2017. Both CVS is going all in on K-beauty, upscale of these rapidly growing beauty logos are Reinvent the skin care and niche beauty brands. Select aggressively building their own branded stores are outfitted with enlarged prod- stores in major malls or downtowns. The uct offerings either from South Korea stores are loaded with technology including or inspired by the beauty hotbed. In the a new virtual reality experience at NYX. Beauty Floor coming year, CVS will also expand its pro- Consumers can use a Gear VR Controller prietary beauty brands to distinguish itself powered by Oculus to select products they Saks Fifth Avenue “It’s about the immersion and the edu- from competitors. would like to learn more information about, cation. That’s central. What we want to do It is full speed ahead for Walgreens Boots and at the end of the experience, users is expected to unveil is create a new area for beauty, and we’re Alliance’s Beauty Differentiation Program, will receive a special offer to purchase the its new second floor going to broadly double the size of our which places an emphasis on its own products featured in the tutorial at a special beauty playground, beauty business to be able to engage with brands such as No. 7 and Soap and Glory, as price. those new trends,” Harrods chief executive well as new cosmetics lines Sleek Makeup “NYX Professional Makeup is a digitally while Ulta Beauty officer Michael Ward told WWD last year. and CYO. native brand with millions of followers expands its mass In the U.S., department store retailers Meanwhile, the specialty channel is across our global social media platforms,” such as Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus becoming an increasing source of com- said Mehdi Mehdi, the company’s vice business. are expected to continue growing the petition for mass retailers. At the end of president of digital. “We aim to seamlessly By Ellen Thomas Millennial beauty initiatives they intro- 2017, Sephora introduced ColourPop and incorporate digital into everything we do, duced in 2017, designed to rejuvenate the Deciem’s The Ordinary online and in stores and see virtual reality as the new frontier in It’s not just major makeup brands that are department store beauty counter business. — both primarily focus on products priced the beauty industry.” getting a makeover in 2018 — retailers are For Bloomingdale’s, that’s Glowhaus — under $10. Not to be outdone, Ulta Beauty Although virtual reality was much hyped doubling their efforts to lure beauty shop- 400-square-foot shops-in-shop formats con- is also ramping up its efforts in mass beauty. last year, the human touch is another key pers away from online and back into stores. taining 30 niche, online-born brands tar- While the Midwest-based chain has histor- component of experiential retail that will On the prestige side, Saks Fifth Avenue in geted at younger consumers and located on ically carried the traditional mass brands continue to progress in 2018. Sephora, for April is expected to complete the reinven- the retailer’s contemporary floor. Neiman’s — think Maybelline and Neutrogena — it is instance, is experiencing with boutique for- tion of its second floor into a full-fledged in late 2017 opened its Trending Beauty fast-growing its lower-priced assortment. mat stores. The first Sephora Studio opened beauty and fragrance playground complete Shop at the Dallas North Park flagship, with In 2017, the retailer added brands like Mor- in Boston in 2017 with a heavier-than- with service offerings as part of its ongo- 650 new products from niche brands in the phe, Milani, Beauty Revolution and Sleek usual focus on services. “In today’s retail ing flagship renovation plan. In London, makeup, skin-care and “self-care” catego- Makeup to the mix, and WWD reported this environment where very little is constant Harrods is working on a renovation of its ries. “A handful” of Trending Beauty Shops week that Wet ‘n’ Wild is set to enter two- and clients’ expectations are ever-evolving, own. The retailer’s signature ground floor are expected to roll out to other Neiman’s thirds of Ulta doors in February. More mass one thing has remained true for Sephora: beauty hall will take the place of men’s on doors in 2018. brands will enter the retailer in 2018. there is no better way to create meaning- the lower ground floor, with plenty of space On the mass side, retailers are being Ulta is also working to create a beauty ful connections with clients than through for disruptor brands like Huda Beauty forced to innovate as they watch sales experience in its mass department that personalized experiences and a customized — influencer Huda Kattan’s product line is decline due to slowing foot traffic. While rivals its prestige area, implementing approach to beauty,” said Calvin McDonald, among one of Harrods’ top five best-selling major mass-makeup brands like Cover Girl tester stations — a feature that one-ups the Sephora Americas’ president and chief beauty brands. and Almay are in the midst of reinvention, drugstore experience in a fundamental way. executive officer.

The Kardashian-Jenner Juggernaut Continues in 2018

More products and billion in sales by 2022. Kylie and with a Crème Contour & Highlight Kit that retail expansion are While the brand’s digital flagship remains Kris Jenner sold out immediately after launch, bringing its primary sales channel, Jenner’s five- in a reported $14.4 million. Kardashian’s in the works for Kylie week pop-up shop in seven Topshop stores other big launch of the year was KKW Fra- Jenner’s Kylie Cosmetics. allowed her to get more experience in grance, a collection of three limited-edition brick-and-mortar and potentially explore gardenia scents that brought in a reported By Layla Ilchi additional overseas expansion, considering $14.3 million. Kardashian doesn’t have The Kardashian-Jenner beauty domi- Topshop is headquartered in the U.K. plans to restock the collection, instead she nance is here to stay — at least for 2018. Hosting her own pop-up shops in Los is releasing a second trio of fragrances in Arguably one of the world’s most Angeles in December 2016 and in New February in time for Valentine’s Day. famous families, the Kardashian-Jenners York last February, Jenner has plans to She will also add to the KKW Beauty line have already established themselves as open more this year in top markets like this year with a concealer kit launching in key players in the beauty space with Kylie Chicago and Houston. No plans have been coming months. Although the sisters are Jenner’s namesake cosmetics line bringing released on a permanent storefront, but playing in the same field, they don’t see in an impressive $420 million in sales just 18 Jenner has said that when she opens a each other as competition. months after the brand’s launch. With the store it will be owned and operated by the “I am older than Kylie. We definitely have ainer H osch addition of more products — concealers, brand, similar to the model that direct-to- a different audience,” Kardashian told WWD lipsticks and brushes launched in December consumer firms such as Warby Parker and last year. “We do have a lot of similar things, and more products are slated for this year; Bonobos have established. but we aren’t doing the same products, so the brand’s first retail partnership with Top- Following in her younger half-sisters’ we won’t run into that overlap. We’re really shop, and Jenner’s prominent social media footsteps, Kim Kardashian launched her cautious of that. We work together to make

presence, the brand is on track to reach $1 own cosmetics line, KKW Beauty, last June sure that we don’t overlap like that.” R by J enner photograph 18 january 5, 2018

Mass Makeup Gets a Makeover

Legacy brands like Cover Girl Peacock Flare Cover Girl and Almay mascara, a new are reinventing product for 2018. themselves in the face of heightened competition from online brands and slowing foot traffic in department stores.

By Ellen Thomas and Faye Brookman

Faced with a confluence of symptoms — think slowing foot traffic at drugstore retailers and heightened competition from direct-to-consumer newcomers like ColourPop and Kylie Cosmetics — a slew of mass makeup brands are undergoing radical makeovers in 2018. Re-branding efforts from Cover Girl, Rimmel London, Physicians Formula, Revlon and Almay are slated to hit shelves in the first half of the year, and discount and drugstore retailers are hoping the trend-driven offerings will lure customers back to their doors. Cover Girl’s new campaign is by far the most hyped — and quite possibly the most the brand to see sales decline and it lost pricier items. That was the recipe for suc- eyebrow products. But the numbers don’t needed. Now fully divested from Procter prime space in Walgreens. Company exec- cess of L’Oréal’s Lash Paradise (a retailer tell the full story — they do not account & Gamble and under Coty’s watch, buyers utives blame the losses on a lack of a strong favorite of 2017) which buyers said gave for sales of brands on e-commerce, in have earmarked the struggling brand as brand identity. But this year Physicians For- them an alternative to Too Faced’s Better specialty retail or on Amazon. the one they are most excited to watch mula is going back to basics and reinforcing than Sex mascara. This year, buyers added, In 2018, mass-makeup brands are transition. This month, Cover Girl is rolling its ethos as a brand offering better-for-you the race is to offer a less expensive option looking to grow in channels outside the tra- out more than 100 new trend-driven ingredients and products that will impart to the array of scented eyeshadows hitting ditional drugstore and mass retail. “We’re products with an updated logo and tagline a “you but better” look. The company this the market. Eyebrow tinting products like awfully strong on Amazon,” said Eric Chen, and a splashy advertising campaign fea- month is unveiling a string of beauty essen- Almay’s — Physician’s Formula has one too chief executive officer of Markwins. “We’re turing Katy Perry and five new Cover Girls tials formulated with natural and skin-care — and “glotions” from L’Oréal and Cover building [out] our own site and putting a who blur the line between celebrity and ingredients, including the Healthy Founda- Girl are also expected to be plentiful. lot of effort into it — it [could be] one of influencer — think Issa Rae, Ayesha Curry, tion, which contains hylauronic acid and a Buyers also welcome faster to market color Markwins’ biggest growth drivers.” Mark- Maye Musk, motorcycle racer Shelina proprietary brightening complex contain- trends such as holographic palettes and wins has already seen growth in e-com- Moreda and fitness trainer Massy Arias. ing Chinese Wu Zhu Yu extract. broader shade ranges for face à la Fenty — merce with Wet ‘n’ Wild — sales on the Almay and Physicians Formula are also “Brands are all investing across the although they added brands will have to brand’s website were up 114 percent from both introducing revamps. Almay has board,” said one top drugstore executive. keep the need for inventory turns in mind. 2016 to 2017. E-commerce is where brands adopted a more Millennial-friendly look A few years ago, she said, mass cosmetics “It is difficult to expand too much because who have limited space on-shelf can house and tone, tapping Rashida Jones as a brand was bigger than prestige. That flip-flopped of space,” a drugstore source confirmed. the breadth of their assortments — includ- ambassador. One new product for January, over the past 18 months, fueled by spe- Retailers noted most of the other major ing extended shade ranges. As one brand a foundation with an attached blending cialty stores attracting shoppers with eye beauty brands at this point have an arsenal exec put it, “the rack is unlimited” online. sponge, is cheekily named “Best Blend palettes, premium mascaras and brow of influencers, extended shade ranges For consumers who still want to shop Forever.” The brand is unleashing a slew of products. The impact of minis also created and products for younger consumers. The brick-and-mortar, specialty stores like new products, including eye palettes and a a sales bonanza in prestige. Shoppers challenge will be to stand out in a crowded Ulta Beauty and Forever 21’s Riley Rose South-Korean-inspired eyebrow tint. hesitant to shell out for a full-size product field where many of the mass cosmetics offer physical homes for low-priced niche While Cover Girl and Almay focus on in premium doors used to opt for mass players are taking the same route. “The brands — Ulta in particular ramped up its attracting the Millennial shopper with alternatives. Now, they have the option of brands are all trying to find their niche in mass offerings in 2017 with brands like trend, Physicians Formula is also totally buying the smaller size of an upscale item the market,” said one retailer. Sleek Makeup, Beauty Revolution, Morphe revamping — but with an opposite strategy. for the same price as a similar full-size Sales figures for mass makeup last year and Milani and is continuing into the new The brand has experienced fits and starts product as mass — a compelling alternative weren’t pretty — traditional categories like year with the launch of Wet ‘n’ Wild. Said since being acquired by Southern Calif.- for those are purchasing for fun and exper- mascara, foundation, eyeshadow and lip- senior vice president of merchandising based Markwins International Corp. — too imentation over commodity. stick all declined, though there were bright Monica Arnaudo, “We’re seeing a lot of sharp of a focus on trends like color-correct- One strategy brands are fighting back spots in categories offering more trend- the midtier brands entering the space, and ing and argan oil-infused makeup caused with is making their own versions of driven innovation such as concealers and these fun, younger brands coming in.”

and Belgium, and followed by the U.S. as the association in a position paper entitled the second-largest market. Meanwhile, “Getting the Best from Exiting the EU.” Brexit and Britain’s sales of products to non-EU countries In it, the CTPA outlined the cosmetics were valued at 1.2 billion pounds. industry’s three key asks. They are: Also in 2016, the EU — with France, • Remain in the Customs Union until Beauty Business Germany and Poland the top three coun- a free trade agreement with the EU is tries — produced 67.1 percent of the U.K.’s reached; About 66 percent, or remain mum on their strategy for the beauty imports, equaling 2.48 billion • Provide a clear and reasonable phased 2.34 billion pounds U.K.’s impending divorce from the Euro- pounds. implementation for changes to U.K./EU pean Union, which could have wide- Beauty represents a big business for trade between leaving the EU and signing worth, of the U.K.’s spread ramifications on their bustling Britain at home, as well, where it employs a full free trade agreement, and beauty export sales businesses. 200,000 people and was valued at 9.38 • Avoid additional administrative trade According to the Cosmetic Toiletry and billion pounds in retail sales in 2016, barriers by securing administrative coop- were generated in the Perfumery Association — 66.2 percent, or according to the CTPA. eration with EU competent authorities for European Union in 2016. 2.34 billion pounds worth — of Britain’s “The people of the United Kingdom cosmetics after the U.K. has left the EU. beauty export sales were generated in the have decided to leave the European No one knows yet what form Brexit will By Jennifer Weil EU in 2016, the most recent figures avail- Union, and the U.K. cosmetics industry is take — and therefore how it will impact able. That zone is the U.K.’s largest trading working with the government to ensure Britain’s beauty trade specifically — but As transition talks regarding Brexit partner for fragrance and beauty prod- that, once the U.K. leaves the EU, our Prime Minister Theresa May has said it is rev up in January, many beauty players ucts, led by the Irish Republic, Germany industry can continue to prosper,” wrote to happen officially on March 29, 2019. january 5, 2018 19

In Focus: Technology

Textiles Oeko-Tex Association Updates Guidelines ● The group updated guidelines for its Oeko-Tex product portfolio for all certification systems and other services.

By Tracey Greenstein

The Oeko-Tex Association updated existing guidelines for its Oeko-Tex product portfolio. The update includes all certification systems and other ser- First Insight’s ElastiCast vices for consumer protection and sus- tool focuses on pricing. tainability throughout the textile “value creation chain.” Its new regulations will come into effect in April after a three- Data Analytics this solution.” month transition period, according to The software processes consumer data the firm. through its propriety algorithms. Elasti- Oeko-Tex standards and guidelines First Insight Unveils Price Cast aims to support merchants, planners are “based on the continuous exchange and marketers to analyze the benefits of of experience with industry stakehold- different pricing scenarios based off the ers, cooperation with initiatives and Elasticity Prediction Tool predictions of how consumers will react to monitoring of legal regulations,” the the price point throughout the product’s organization said. ● The solution software will turn, increase margins. full life cycle. With the tool, retailers are Updated regulations include Detox enable customers to “ElastiCast takes the guesswork out of able to see the distributions of demand to Zero, an assessment tool that allows pricing decisions with a real-time solution before going to market to ensure prices are manufacturers in the textile chain to determine optimal pricing that can predict outcomes based on any benchmarked accurately and purposefully. assess the quality of waste water and and increase margins. price or point in time within a product’s A feature of First Insight’s InsightSuite, sludge and the status of companies’ life cycle,” said Greg Petro, chief executive the tool sets to provide a more transparent chemical management systems, ulti- By Elizabeth Doupnik officer of First Insight. “Through this new look at new product performance before mately resulting in a status report. The solution, we are empowering retailers and it hits the shelves. First Insight customers update lends improved usability and First Insight has debuted its price brands with the knowledge they need to include Vineyard Vines, Salvatore Ferrag- clarity to users. elasticity prediction tool, ElastiCast. The feel confident that the price on an item will amo, Pier 1 Imports, David’s Bridal, Dick’s Its Eco Passport certification, which platform aims to enable users to determine deliver the sales and margins they expect. Sporting Goods, Kohl’s and Under Armour, indicates a company’s compliance with the most optimal product pricing and in We’re thrilled to be the first to market with among others. their manufacturing restricted substance list, allows them to list up to five prod- ucts from categories on an Eco Passport certificate. In the past, it was required that each certificate was issued for every Technology The platform aims to automate product company, according to the firm. data integration for online analytical The update also allows companies’ processing that are deploying legacy certified products listed in the Oeko-Tex Rubikloud applications and data warehouses. “The Buying Guide and in the Zero Discharge Rubikloud platform delivers automated of Hazardous Chemicals Chemical Raises $37M instructions to execution layers such as Gateway. And chemical manufacturers the retailer’s ERP, supply chain system, are no longer obligated to disclose secret marketing automation tools and in-store formulas, the company said. In lieu of In Series B experiences. Everyone talks about AI, disclosing, manufacturers will undergo but the reality is you must impact a more extensive analytical testing to Funding Led significant P&L item to get mass adoption attain Eco Passport certification. from a retailer. Rubikloud works with Other notable updates include stream- the world’s largest retailers, who have lined processes for attaining its Made By Intel Capital collective revenue of more than $100 bil- in Green product label, which quickens lion in annual sales,” said a Rubikcloud the certification process, and a list of ● The retail artificial intelligence spokesman. newly recorded harmful chemicals for company plans to expand “The first three levels of retail that AI its Leather Standard and Standard 100 globally with the injection will impact and transform will be the certifications. Its Sustainable Textile Pro- supply chain, corporate head office and duction, or STeP, assessments — which of funds. Online shopping front of store,” said Stacey Shulman, survey required company data — have continues to chief innovation officer in the retail solu- been reduced by condensing the ques- By Elizabeth Doupnik expand globally. tions division at Intel Corp. “Combining tionnaire, the company said. And STeP’s Rubikloud, an artificial intelligence plat- Intel’s focus on retail, IoT and in-store certificates and status reports have been havon P humijan / T havon Shutterstock O nline by awpixel.com; form catering to retail, has announced the AI now,” said Kerry Liu, chief executive devices with Rubikloud’s intelligent integrated with Detox to Zero, to simul- completion of Series B Funding, which officer of Rubikloud. “The holiday sea- decision automation will further position taneously provide users with informa- secured $37 million. Intel Capital led the son has the potential to make or break the two companies to continue as retail tion on Detox to Zero data. picks, which round. With the injection of resources, retailers’ yearly revenue, leaving no AI leaders.” include PVH Corp., Ulta Rubikloud plans to grow its footprint by margin of error for inventory stock-outs According to sources, Rubikloud has ser- and Tapestry. expanding offices in Europe and Asia. or disappointed loyal customers. But as viced the world’s largest perfume and cos- “Rubikloud is planning greater global the stakes rise, legacy tech providers are metic retailers, earning 111 million euros expansion as traditional retailers realize falling short in developing retail AI in total sales, with 12 million euros in etail photograph by Shutterstock / R Shutterstock by photograph etail

R what’s at stake if they don’t integrate core-applications.” incremental sales based on the platform. 20 january 5, 2018

WWD’s weekly roundup of the goings on in the property world. Real Estate Dirt By Kathryn Hopkins Celebrity Movers

1. Andy Roddick and 1 spans two floors, according Brooklyn Decker to the listing held by Gary Game, set, match. Tennis Gold of Hilton & Hyland. star Andy Roddick and his This isn’t Harris’ first foray model-turned-actress wife into Los Angeles real estate. Brooklyn Decker have finally He already owns a $15 million waved goodbye to their house in the Beverly Hills North Carolina home after Post Office area, as well as a year-and-a-half on the a $7 million West Hollywood market. Hills home. The couple has just accepted a $2.35 million 3. Greta Garbo offer for their four-bedroom Silver screen legend Greta mountain retreat in the tiny Garbo’s longtime Manhattan village of Cashiers (about apartment has been sold for 165 miles from Charlotte), $8.5 million. a slight drop from the $3 This is 43 percent more million they were originally than the $5.95 million seeking. Garbo’s family sought for The picturesque house, the three-bedroom co-op set on close to three acres, apartment in the posh was custom-built for them Campanile building next to in 2013 — after Roddick hung the East River that was the up his tennis shoes — and reclusive star’s home for 40 is surrounded by rivers and years until her death in 1990 waterfalls with views of the at age 84. Blue Ridge and Appalachian Andy Roddick and It entered contract just mountains, as well as Silver Brooklyn Decker just around a month after it hit Springs Lake. sold this North the market, with multiple Fitting in with the rustic Carolina home. offers driving up the final feel, the house was kitted 2 sale price, no doubt helped out with antique timber, a larger house that they All three men were no by its most famous resi- large stone fireplaces and built nearby. They are now doubt attracted to the dent, who is said to have oak plank floors, with their expecting their second child. four-bedroom, five-bathroom been drawn to the apart- interior designer being Hollywood Hills house by ment because it reminded none other than Decker 2. Calvin Harris its two-story music room, her of her native Stockholm. herself. The 30-year-old also Scottish DJ Calvin Harris the second floor of which is Garbo left the full-floor designed their five-bedroom has bought his third home in decked out as a professional apartment complete with ranch-style home in Austin, Los Angeles — and naturally, recording studio. Calvin its own private elevator Tex., adding that role to her it comes with a state-of-the- Other features of the Harris’ new entrance to her niece, Gray résumé along with model art recording studio. restored and renovated Hollywood Reisfield, who lived in it and actress. His new $5 million abode property include a spacious house. until 2012 and left it largely They were expecting to be is used to having musical living room with glass walls 3 unchanged. Indeed, the mas- there for the long-term but residents since the seller that offer views of the city ter bedroom is still adorned Decker, a former Sports was fellow DJ Steve Angello, and canyon and a family in Garbo’s favorite rose-hued Illustrated model who grew who is best known for having room that opens to the pool Fortuny silk. up in North Carolina and is been a member of Swed- on one side and a wrap- The apartment also currently starring in Netflix’s ish House Mafia, while the around deck/lounge area on boasts a grand, L-shaped “Grace and Frankie” series, previous owner was record the other side. living room with working fire- previously told Forbes that producer, composer and Elsewhere the two-story place and a separate library/ they decided they needed musician Tom Rothrock, who master suite has a dou- den area, clad in knotty more space after their has worked with the likes of ble-height bay window, while pine wood paneling, against son Hank was born and the Foo Fighters and Gwen an attached guest suite Greta Garbo’s former which Garbo displayed her are planning to move into Stefani. has a private entrance and Manhattan apartment. extensive art collection.

House of the Week the stat

London was at the epicenter line of children’s clothes aimed corner of the room. of the Swinging Sixties and at the Japanese market. That room, which is on the the fashion label Biba was These days, Hulanicki lives raised ground floor, has steps what everyone was wearing. in Miami, where she spends leading down to a bright con- Its founder, Barbara Hulan- much of her time designing servatory overlooking the gar- icki, opened the first Biba hotels. If she wants to return den below. The garden is also store on Abingdon Road to her London roots, she may not boring as it comes with a in South Kensington in the want to consider her old hidden bath so the new buyer mid-Sixties, eventually grow- house, which has been put can have a soak outside, but ing big enough to fill a whole on the market for 4.5 million the neighbors won’t be able to

seven-story Derry & Toms pounds. see thanks to the surrounding 30% department store on Kensing- The current owners have trees and ivy. ton High Street in 1971. refurbished the three-bed- This London house Elsewhere there’s a mint The amount high-end After it closed, she and her room period property, paying was once owned by green kitchen, while one of house prices in Brooklyn late husband bought a house homage to her by calling it the Biba founder. the bedrooms is covered grew by in 2017, the fastest on Kensington Church High “Biba House” and adding a in flamingo wallpaper. luxury house price growth Street where she designed for sign that says just that to the decorated in bright colorful room adorned with a zebra Whether Hulanicki would of any major metropolitan labels such as Cacheable and front door. Biba prints, it certainly isn’t rug, a traffic light, a large metal want to keep that is another area in the U.S. Fiorucci, as well as launching a And while the house isn’t dull inside, with the main living dog statue and a gorilla in the question. Source: Realtor.com B E AU T Y FRIDAYS –are back!

Your Weekly Content Destination for all Things Beauty

Launching in the Digital Daily every Friday, starting January 2018.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT RACHAEL DESANTIS, BEAUTY DIRECTOR AT 646 356 4746 OR [email protected] 22 january 5, 2018

Tiffany Haddish Greta Gerwig

Tiffany Haddish Steals the Show at NYFCC Awards Saoirse Ronan, Greta Gerwig and Timothée Chalamet were also honored at the New York Film Critics Circle Awards ceremony on Wednesday. By Andrew Nodell photographs By Lexie Moreland

“I don’t read reviews,” revealed finally on the top 100 list of baby the 34-year-old kept mum as to expressed excitement at meeting Saoirse Ronan. “But I’ve heard [the names in the world. I’m very much whether she will join Sunday’s Paul Thomas Anderson, who won critics] have said lovely things.” onboard with this.” sartorial demonstration. “I’m going best screenplay for “Phantom The 23-year-old was awarded The actress is also onboard to let that moment be the moment Thread,” but, alas, Chalamet’s best actress for her role in “Lady with the planned anti-harassment when it happens, but I’m very hopes were dashed as Ander- Bird” at the New York Film Critics protest Sunday by joining those excited,” she said. son was unable to attend. “I’m Circle Awards dinner at Tao Down- donning black to the Globes. “With Timothée Chalamet, who bummed since he’s one of my town on Wednesday evening, well-known people in our industry won best actor at Wednesday's favorite filmmakers.” which launched this year’s string — and hopefully other indus- ceremony, was joined in support “Phantom Thread” actress of film industry honors that tries — continuing to talk about by his “Call Me By Your Name” Lesley Manville, who will skip continues Sunday with the Golden [harassment], stand together and costar Armie Hammer and was the Globes on Sunday to begin Globes and ends with the Oscars show we are united, we will affect most delighted not with winning an rehearsals alongside Jeremy Luca Guadagnino, in March. the perspective of young people award, but being in good company Irons in the West End production Timothée Ronan’s given name, which and [change] what it means to be while doing so. “Beginning to be in of “Long Day’s Journey Into Night,” Chalamet and means “freedom” in her native a woman," she said. [awards season] now, the physical accepted the award on behalf of Armie Hammer. Ireland, is now the talk of Holly- Joining her in these sentiments [experience] is not as gratifying Anderson. wood and beyond, but that was was “Lady Bird” director Greta as talking to artists, actors and “As we say in England, he’s the know that everyone wants to work not always the case. “I was literally Gerwig, who won best film at the directors that I have been studying meat and two veg,” said Manville in with you now, but please may I cut the only Saoirse in the world,” she NYFCC. Donning a white Oscar for years.” a speech to a crowd that included to the front of the line,'” he offered said. “Apparently [the name] is now de la Renta gown Wednesday, The native New Yorker veteran film critic Mary Haskell, before Manville gave the director’s Tribeca Film Festival cofounder cell phone number to Haddish — Jane Rosenthal and director John and the rest of the jubilant crowd. Cameron Mitchell. “'Please call or text me anytime.'” Reading a letter from Ander- For her part, Haddish stole the son, Manville continued, “'Thank show with a lengthy acceptance you for this vote of confidence speech that blended both comedy and boost of ego. It’s wonderful to and raw emotion — and made win an award, especially when you several tongue-in-cheek passes don’t have to wait up to find out if at a blushing Michael B. Jordan, you’ve won [it].'” who earlier presented pal Rachel While there were many stars in Morrison with the best cinematog- the room, including Edward Norton raphy award for "Mudbound." Willem and Willem Defoe (who won best Clutching a cocktail glass, Dafoe supporting actor for "The Florida Haddish floated on stage in a Project"), none shone quite as deep blue satin gown by Walter nobody saw me. When you’re a bright as actress and comedian Mendez. “First, I want to look at the little kid going through the system, Tiffany Haddish, who was singled award and make sure they spelled you wonder, 'Does anybody really out by Anderson in his pre-written my name right because when I know I’m alive?'" speech. ran track, they spelled my name The actress, who spent a “I hope you all have a wonderful wrong,” she said. portion of her youth in foster care, night and before Lesley says Addressing the room filled went on to mention others like her goodnight,” continued Manville in with writers, Haddish noted that who previously were without a Anderson’s words, “perhaps she she cares not what critics may voice or role model in the industry. could relay a message from me to say about her as long as they “To be able to be this example — my hero, Tiffany Haddish.” are taking notice. “I know some there are so many people like me The 38-year-old, who won best people in here are going to talk that you guys have no clue about, supporting actress from NYFCC s--t about me. You know why it's but they are coming because I for her role in “Girls Trip,” excitedly OK? Because you care enough to kicked the f--king door open,” she exclaimed, “I’m right here girl” at say something,” she continued. exclaimed, raising her glass in mention of her name as Manville “I’m glad you see me because the air, as the room erupted in a Saoirse Ronan continued: “He says, 'Tiffany, I there have been so many years standing ovation. january 5, 2018 23

talism, it’s the idea of connecting with an audience, connecting with a participant on one of the deepest levels possible,” he says. “I began thinking about the idea of sense, and how sense can be manipulated and how senses are so important in terms of what I do and the best way you can manipulate the senses is through food and drink. The idea of an emotional memory at- tached to food, attached to drink in that way. So I began weaving those ideas together — food and drink, and bringing audiences together around a table, of me having an authentic experience with them — and then the best way to approach that, I thought, was to tell a story from my past. Something that defined me as a child, something that inspired what I do today. And I would share the story around the table whilst these people are enjoying Scott Silven a meal that relates to that story, enjoying the whisky that I was brought up with as a kid.” When creating “The Illusion- Is Reading ist’s Table” in Edinburgh, he linked up with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which at the time owned the Scotch Malt Whisky Your Mind Society in the city’s New Town. “I collaborated with them on a few The performer discusses his projects, and that sort of began the involvement with this show of career as an illusionist and tying whisky with the experi- his popular dinner show at the ence,” he says. “And the Scotch Malt Whisky Society is a very McKittrick Hotel. cool place, LVMH was all about By Kristen Tauer crafting that unique luxurious experience, which really tied into photographs By Lexie Moreland the SMWS and sort of ties into my work as well.” He also collaborated with Chanel when the brand staged Scott Silven’s magical dinner something deeper. All illusion is that at once seemed so simple created myself, and mixing those first criteria is a receptiveness a show at Linlithgow Palace in experience at the McKittrick metaphor in some way.” and so profound, and even at a things together.” to being hypnotized, naturally, as Scotland. “That was my ‘in’ initial- Hotel may be one of the hardest He’s infused the concept of young age that sense of mystery In addition to historical and well as someone who is creative ly, carefully choosing the brands reservations to come by this win- storytelling into his dinner show, stuck with me.” traditional influences, Silven’s and imaginative. and companies that I wanted to ter season. The 12-week run of serving the crowd illusion and He built his expertise through toolbox of magic is padded with “And then they really threw work with, brands that inspired his immersive dinner-and-a-show stories of his childhood simulta- a mix of studying past perform- human psychology, which he you into the deep end by asking me in some way, and then from “At the Illusionist’s Table” sold out neously with a three-course din- ers and working with mentors began studying as a teenager. you to go into the street and there using that to springboard quickly; additional shows were ner and whisky pairings. Silven’s such as Roy Walton, who owns “I found the idea of creating approach someone, ask if they and develop my own experience,” added and those sold out as well. interest in the world of magic the decades-old Glasgow magic magic without props, with just wanted to be hypnotized and he adds. A scout from the New York performance began when he shop Tam Shepherds. using someone’s thoughts and then do that on the street,” Silven So: does everyone hound him performing arts venue recruited was four years old; his grandfa- “Magic is a very open sort of feelings and memories the adds of completing the course. for his secrets? the 28-year-old for the New York ther showed him a card trick, and craft, where magicians are really most interesting,” he says. “Then “And it worked, which was the “I’d never really want to call it residency after encountering his he’s been hooked ever since. wonderful in sharing ideas with when I was 15 — I didn’t tell my most interesting thing.” a magic show....it’s never been popular show during the annual “He always had a great air of each other and sharing their mom — but I went to Milan and He went on to study theater in about that, or equally defining, Fringe Festival in Edinburgh, mystery about him. I still don’t passions and things they’re did a hypnosis course.” The university and after graduation ‘oh this is a magic trick, and now where he’s performed the know where he got those tricks working on,” says Silven. “There’s course was less glamorous than decided to weave together the we’re going to do another magic intimate show for several years. from. But he was in the army, and a real sense of collaboration and it sounds — it took place in a concepts of performance art trick,’” Silven says. “The really Silven, who was born and raised I think he picked it up there,” says sharing. I’m using things in my conference center next to a bus with traditional illusion, hypnosis interesting thing about the type in Scotland, fits perfectly into Silven of his grandfather. “There shows that are maybe 200 or station. Topics included how to and theater to create his immer- of stuff I do with mentalism is of- the McKittrick’s apparitional was something so alluring, the 300 years old and at the same find a good subject, someone sive experiences. ten no secret — that you’re doing Scottish themed offerings, which idea of performing something time I’m using stuff that I’ve susceptible to hypnosis. The “The type of illusion I do, men- what you’re saying you’re doing also include the Macbethian when you ask people to think “Sleep No More” and rooftop bar of something and you’re going Gallow Green, named for the through a process together in 15th-century Paisley witch trials. revealing that,” he continues. Sprawling and lush in the sum- “But you often hope that mertime, Gallow Green recently people will leave the experience transformed into the wintertime completely not even thinking, rooftop cocktail bar The Lodge at ‘oh I wonder how he did it.’ To Gallow Green, constructed to re- transcend the experience of it semble the interior of a Scottish just being a puzzle, to it being hunting lodge, complete with all something much more interest- of the accoutrements. In a cozy ing and profound. It’s like looking book-lined back room, a chess at a really great piece of art, set is out on a table and primed you’re hopefully not consider- for play. Based on Silven’s skill set ing it going, ‘Oh, I wonder what — mentalism — he doesn’t seem type of paintbrush he used,’ or like the best person to challenge ‘I wonder what the color palette in a game of chess. Turns out, he was here,’” he adds. “Of course, doesn’t know how to play. you’re always going to get people “Isn’t that pathetic?” offers the who are desperate to know how unassuming raven-haired per- it’s done.” former. “That’s what I thought I’d While Silven has been calling be quite good at, but I just went Manhattan’s Chelsea neighbor- a different route and focused on hood home since September, magic, unfortunately.” after the show’s conclusion in What’s made Silven’s perfor- mid-January he’ll start a world mances so appealing to his au- tour of his stage show. And, like diences? “It’s about having that magic, he’ll be back at the McK- authentic connection with an ittrick next fall — booking for the audience,” he says. “It’s always show’s next run in September is been, ‘how will this make my already open. “Fingers crossed. audience feel, or what do I want We’ve sold out in record time, to share, or why are we in this which has been such a lovely moment together right now.’ It’s “The Illusionist’s thing to have,” he says. “I’m really Table” at the always been about transcending keen to come back and see what McKittrick Hotel. just the magic, about it being else we can do.”