Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt

IMPLEMENTATION AND REDESIGN OF TRADITIONAL ORNAMENTAL MOTIFS OF ASSAM ON ERI SILK AND DEVELOP MODEST FASHION WEARABLES

1Dr. Ratna Sharma, 2Kaveri Dutta 1Professor, Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G.(Auto)College, 2PhD scholar, Textiles & Clothing, B.U. Bhopal, India. [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Assam seems to have evolved its own were surveyed by selected respondents. unique individuality in terms of its From the present study it can be observed exquisite silks, the art and craft. Next to that the embellished traditional jewellery weaving, sericulture is the most important motifs resulted in fresh and colourful cottage industry of the State of Assam. pattern on developed Eri silk products. Eri and Muga have been producing silk The embroidered Eri silk fabric also traditionally since long back. Also, the created a huge change in a positive way state has a rich collection of traditional among craftsman and consumer. jewellery which is unique and exclusive Keywords: Art and craft of Assam, Eri to the state. In view of the changing silk, hand embroidery, traditional market trends, fashion and consumer Assamese jewellery motifs demands, silk is emerging as a fashion fabric both in India and abroad. In case of INTRODUCTION Eri silk fabric it has limited use in clothing and accessories. Hence Assam (India) an entry way to this study is an attempt to explore Northeast India is home to numerous the vibrant traditional ornamental motifs tribes. The art and craft of the state is of Assam and to redesign, restructure world famous for its unique traditional with some innovative techniques over Eri methods of production. The people of silk products. The information Assam have traditionally been craftsmen incorporated in the paper is primary and and exquisitely skilled in bamboo and the data have been collected by purposive cane products. Traditionally, the skill in sampling method. This work of art was the art of weaving and spinning has expressed on Eri silk fabric in the form of always been held to be one of the highest traditional hand embroidery as it is attainments of Assamese women. closely connected with the era. For this Assam’s handloom industry is basically study selected traditional motifs of silk oriented. Among the wild silk, Eri Assamese ornaments was used which was silk fabric has remained as “the poor were further developed into 3 categories- man’s silk”. Till the advent of the mill the border, the main motif and all over made cloth, Eri silk fabric has been the butas. The developed products regular winter wear and bedspreads for an Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 average Assamese villager. Attempts attempt was made to restructure and have been made to bleach and dye Eri redesign traditional jewellery motifs of silk fabrics. Because of the uneven yarns, Assam (India) over Eri silk to develop there has always been the difficulty of greater potential for craftsmen, uniform colouration, but the snag has recognition of the art, revive the decline somehow been overcome by further of art and create a change in a positive technological advancement. The name among consumers. “Eri” is derived from an Assamese word “Era” the castor plant. Earlier most of the LITERATURE REVIEW Eri silk yarns were hand spun, due to which fine quality was not available. A thorough review of literature was Today with the advent of technology, undertaken to investigate the prior work many companies spin Eri spun silk as fine carried out in Eri silk related to as Nm 210, that enables to broaden the pretreatment, product development along application range to a multiple with innovative techniques. Venugopal dimension. Embroidery is an expression (1991) reported that although chiffons, of self, rendered with patience and georgette and zari type saris are very dedicated hard work, it is an art rightly famous, still silk saris are preferred, as described as "painting by needle". they are characterized by their brilliant Embroidery adds grace and elegance, life appearance and luster. The author also and style even into articles of everyday discussed about its affinity for various use. Indian embroidery takes its classes of dye stuffs. However, the inspiration from nature and religion. increase in the cost of raw silk gave rise North-eastern tribes of India are now to production of blended fabrics having being manifested through jewellery. silk as one of the components along with Pendants which are replicas of cotton polyester etc. which was followed “Lokapara”, an ornament worn by by dyeing to produce attractive monarchs of Assam’s famous “Ahom” appearance and luster. In 1997, Gogoi dynasty 500 years ago. Legend has it that described about the Eri Fabric known as after fighting numerous battles poor man’s silk which is used as winter throughout their lifetime, the Ahom kings wear by villagers. Also, the author yearned for peace. Hence, they started discusses dyeing of Eri fabric with low wearing the Pigeon shaped ornament. cost turmeric vegetable dye to make it Here in Assam, jewelery is most more colourful and presentable. The influenced by nature, by musical author also suggested that mordanting instruments and few more by things daily was one of the most important aspect to used in an Assamese household. be considered before dyeing the fabric The development in traditional textile with vegetable dye. Baishay (2002) is as essential as in another field. Indian reported the researches and extension culture and its rich heritage are reflected inputs carried out in the silk industry of in textiles and the traditional motifs of Assam to do better. Muga and Eri various regions of the country. However, cultures are practiced widely in the state, with the changing market trends, fashion while mulberry is negligible and tassar is and consumer demands, Silk is emerging a recent introduction. Therefore, Muga as a fashion fabric. In case of Eri silk and Eri culture, although a matter of fabric it has limited use in clothing and tradition in Assam, have great potential to accessories. Hence keeping above points become a good foreign exchange earner in mind, in the present investigation, for the country, provided the opt for Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 improved techniques and much better- causes tendering of silk, good resistant to quality products. Oommen (2004) organic acid etc. Mahapatra (2004) emphasized on the production strategies reported the process carried out for to suit the requirement of both national degumming of silk in places like and international markets. An analysis of Bangalore, Malda, Kolkata and Banaras the trends in international silk production along with the percentage of impurities suggests that sericulture has better present in the raw material found in those prospect for growth in the developing places. The author mainly emphasized on countries. Therefore, the author the mechanical and chemical processes concluded that with the above followed by the places which was taken background, India’s silk production and from Italian technology. The process took productivity are poised for a quantum 24 hrs for one batch which was then jump in the next five years due to the transferred to the spinning unit where number of developments that have taken 100% spun silk was made followed by place in the recent years. Iyer (2004) in a bleaching and dyeing (acid dyes) in hank interview article dealt with the story of forms. Lastly the author also reported “silk route” that was from Europe to Asia about the development of “enzyme along with production of silk carried out degumming” of silk practiced now a in the different states of India and also days. In 2005, Sreenivasa and coworkers about the ample scope offered for the made an attempt to develop two varieties increase in incomes of the agriculturists of Eri silk and polyester blended yarn on and thereby increasing their living short staple spinning system to diversify standards. The author suggested that the Eri silk. The work was carried out for India should plan this sector more the development of the process to cut the scientifically from pure agro type Eri fibres of required length from the Eri industry to an organized one thereby cocoons. The Eri fibres were blended increasing the production to higher with polyester in 50:50 and 30:50 blend volumes over a period of 5 years to 90-1 ratios and to develop a suitable process lakh tons per annum. More over the parameter for yarn on short staple author gave an outline of traditional spinning system. The developed yarns method of silk reeling, difference were tested for physical properties and between the two types of silk (cultivated comparisons were made on the and wild silk) together with the recent performance of different blend ratio. The quality yield in India which requires 4-5 result showed that the 30:70 Eri – kg of silk yarn. In 2004, Iyer reported the polyester yarns exhibit better physical and chemical properties of silk performance than that of 50:50 blends. which included appearance and handle, In 2006, M. Namrata, tried to revive colour, specific gravity, fineness, tensile the relic khana material by diversifying strength etc. the author also reported that its utility towards designing raw silk can be found in many tones from contemporary diwan sets. Futher the dull white to yellow, greenish to author accessed the most suitable fibre brownish with specific gravity 1.3 – 1.4 content, colour and pattern of khana and fineness expressed in denier. It was material for designing diwan sets by reported that tensile strength vary interviewing working women and according to the origin of fibre, abrasion housewives. The author developed five as very poor, capacity to withstand higher diwan sets by using different patchwork temperature (less than 100 °C), on stored techniques like block, crazy, log cabin, under moist and humid condition may be mosaic and tucked patchworks. These degraded, prolong exposure to sunlight Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 designer’s diwan sets have great demand patients, component for cosmetic in three star and five-star hotels which preparations indicate silk application rate. would enriched their interiors. Lastly the The author reported that the bio- self-entrepreneurs can expand their units compatibility made it a base material for to build international market and in turn tissue wall, membrane, muscle ligament, promote khana weavers. In 2008, Naik blood vessel, nerve gadget, cartilage and S.D, et.al. reported that the handloom bone reconstruction. The silk wastes are Industry in highly labour oriented, having used as feed for fish and poultry, besides legacy of unrivalled craftsmanship. To adding revenue in the form of valuable art this they have given the example of crafts. Of late, silkworm is being used as polycotton sari with contrast border bio-factory to produce functional protein, having demand not only in India but also promoting as a valuable biomaterial in International markets especially when resource for modern applications. embellished with the traditional hand Prasong S. (2009) et.al. investigated and embroidery of Karnataka, kasuti. The compared some characteristics of authors reported that of the four stitches Bombyx mori and Eri ( Phillosamia in kasuti, Negi is rarely used by the racini)silk in different forms, with and embroiderers since it involves lot of skill, without sericin. The authors measured the patience, expertise and intricacy. So protein contents and found out the many professionals do not adopt negi composition of the silk fibroin and sericin stitch and hence this stitch of kasuti is proteins by Lowry method. The authors unnoticing going extinct. Hence the determined the secondary structure and authors in this study explains the effort thermal behavior by FT-IR and TA made to revive and preserve the instrument respectively. Also the authors traditional negi motifs by way of reported the Bombyx mori composed of computerizing and merchandizing. more amount of sericin content than that Goswami M. (2009) et.al. discussed of Eri silk. FT-IR spectra indicated that that the vegetation of Northeast region is the Eri silk has similar profile of silk with unique being characterized as one of the and without sericin, whereas Bombyx richest flora in the world, which produces mori silk showed dramatically differed. a variety of products. Also, the authors But with thermo gravimetric analysis, reported that Northeastern India has the both bombyx mori and Eri silk fibres highest number of endemic plants, without sericin showed higher stability animals and microbial species. Many than that silk fibre with sericin. In 2009, sericigenous insects along with their food Angelika, in her article discusses the plants are endemic to this region. traditional dresses and ornaments of the Sericulture and weaving are part of the Ahom’s of Assam. Assam was originally cultural heritage of the Northeastern ruled by the Ahom’s. The author reported region and is one of the most promising that for every class of people particular income sources to this region without dresses and jewelries were been assigned spending much for this cultivation. Reddy and therefore it was through the R.M. (2009), reported realization of appearance of a person only one could be current trends and innovative uses of identified without any difficulty. The insect fibre. The author also explored that dresses that were worn by the kings or by Silk is required to exploit its the higher officials of the Ahom kingdom compatibility, ecofriendly and value were not worn by the subordinates. The addition potential. The nutritive value as author reported that the higher officials, human diet for cardiac and diabetic queens, princesses and the King used to drape turbans made of silk (pat-muga) in Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 their head. So, whatever, they used to custom, rather than a profitable wear basically were made of Golden profession. The authors also conveyed Muga, Pat and Eri silk only. ‘Majankari’ factors like natural golden colour of silk, and ‘Sopapotia kapur’ are also certain availability of abundant host plants and other types of clothes which are being skills on rearing, reeling and weaving considered to be the best of the best and make Eri and Muga culture a unique were worn by the Kings, Queens profession for the people of Assam. The (Kuwaris) or other higher officials in Ahom kings of Assam patronized the special occasions only. In 2009, Byadgi culture of Muga silk worm for made an attempt to revive the traditional production. The authors found that about Gujarat embroidery by way of 30-40 thousand families in Assam are digitization and produced the digitized directly associated with these cultures. In motifs onto the traditional Dharwad saris 2010, Rajagopal, examined the by swivel (Jamdani) technique. The effectiveness of different fashion author mainly emphasized seventeen marketing strategies and analyzed the conventional motifs comprised of six consumer behavior in a cross-section of buttas for the body, three borders for the demographic settings in reference to Pallav and eight main motifs above the fashion apparel retailing. The author also pallav which were digitized using GC discusses the marketing competencies of kala -2004 with interface Paint shop Pro fashion apparel brands and retailers in (PSP) software. Chakravorty R. (2010) reference to brand image, promotions, et.al reported sericulture as one of the and external market knowledge. From the oldest professions that human developed authors results it reveals that socio and practiced. According to the authors cultural and personality related factors weaving as a craft also developed induce the purchase intentions among independently in ancient China, India and consumers. Also the fashion loving Thailand as well as in the Middle-east, consumers typically patronage multi- Europe, Africa and in South America. channel retail outlets, designer brands, They also reported the process of and invest time and cost towards an working out new techniques continued advantageous product search. Ronya J. for millennia and even today. With the (2010), a in her project explains about change from subsistence farming to the handloom and loin loom sector along present commercial system and with the types of silk cultivated in the incorporation of mechanical technology state of Assam. Also the author brings had brought drastic changes in both forward the existing Eri products in the sericulture and weaving industry. state, problems faced by the weavers Moreover the authors emphasized on while weaving the Eri silk and problems introducing indigenous traditional craft, of market linkages. The author through style, design etc in the field of sericulture this project involved herself not only in and weaving blended with modern designing but also by physically techniques and produce low cost quality participating from the selection of Eri product to sustain present day yarn to dyeing process, to the competition market. Sharma M.C. (2010) development process to the marketing of et.al. reported Northeastern region of the Eri silk products. Teli M. D. & Rane India occupies a unique position in the V. M (2011), investigated and compared global sericulture map of production of the degumming of Mulberry, Muga, golden Muga silk and Eri silk. Muga and Tasar and Ericream silk substrates. Eri culture for the people of Assam is a Experiments were carried out by the part of their culture, tradition and a authors according to the Box-Behnken Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 response surface design. On the basis of motivation of weavers for taking up the weight loss, absorbency, bending length, industry as commercial lines, intention of breaking load, elongation at break and training facilities to artisans etc. crease recovery, optimum conditions for Tepparin S. (2012) et al. examined the degumming with soap-soda were extraction of the natural dye from two determined. different types of tamarind seed viz. sour- Kulkarni A. A. (2011), et.al. made an tamarind seed (TF) and sweet-tamarind attempt to develop union fabrics using seed (TO). The extracted dye solutions viscose rayon as warp with Eri silk of were prepared into a powder form and three different yarn counts viz., 2/40s, subsequently used for dyeing cotton and 2/60s and 2/80s as weft on a semi- Bombyx Mori silk and Eri silk fabrics. automatic power loom. Further, the newly The authors from their experiment found designed union fabrics were evaluated for the TF dye powder was easily soluble in physical properties and compared on the water and could render a higher color performance between different sets of strength than the TO dye powder. union fabrics. Viscose rayon x eri silk of However also found for the tamarind- 2/40s (VRE1) showed highest tensile seed dyes that they could show better strength both in warp and weft directions. exhaustion on the silk fabrics than the In 2012, Itagi A. & Basu A. reported cotton. In 2012, Rajput N. et al made an Drape as a unique property that allows a attempt to examine Indian female fabric to be bent in more than one consumers buying behavior and deeply direction describing a sense of graceful understand the key factors of branded appearance. Silk fabrics world over are clothing that influence female consumer’s known for their unique functional and involvement towards stylish branded aesthetic properties. Sewing is an clothing. Also the authors emphasized on important step in converting pieces of complete awareness of the branded fabrics into a garment. Fabric drape is apparels amongst females and their more realistically investigated by shopping behavior reflected that they considering seams. The authors through purchase these products occasionally. this study presented a fundamental drape Females have particular perspectives and analysis of radially seamed fabrics, using motives behind this purpose. The authors Cusick’s drape meter. In 2012, Mahan B. from this study also observed that price, in her study made an attempt to introduce fitting, income level of consumers is the silk industry of Assam and its relation significant factors and some factors to be to the tourism sector. The author insignificant like status, durability and discusses the problems related to the celebrity endorsement. Lastly the authors production, spinning, weaving, selling stated that as a retailer of apparels, all the and focusing of the products, economic insights have to be embedded in the upliftment, and modernization of the policy formulation to make the purchases products, government and other a real time consumer delight. Ganie N. A. organization efforts in this connection. (2012) et.al. reported sericulture the The author from this study found that production of silk through rearing of Assam is well known for its quality and silkworm. It is not only a tradition but originality of the silk thread and in other also a living culture in our country. The to revitalize the handloom sector various authors discuss that it particularly suits schemes has to be introduced which rural-based farmers, entrepreneurs and include providing avenues for the quality artisans as it requires low investment with fabrics, modernization of loom, potential for relatively higher returns. It Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 provides income and employment to the post and simultaneous mordanting with rural poor especially, farmers with small selected mordants namely alum, copper land-holding and marginalized and sulphate, Ferrous sulphate and stannous weaker sections of the society. They chloride. Also, the authors recorded authors reported India as the second various optimized conditions such as largest producer of raw silk after China wavelength (545nm), 75 mins extraction and the biggest consumer of raw silk and time, alkali concentration of 2.5% /100g silk fabrics and has the unique distinction of yarn, 445 mins dyeing time, 5% dye of producing all the four varieties of silk material concentration, mordant viz., Mulberry, Tasar, Eri and Muga. concentration of 6% alum, 3% copper In 2013, Talebpour F. et.al. made an sulphate, 2% ferrous sulphate, and 2% attempt to degum the silk yarns using stannous chloride and 30 mins alkali, enzyme and Seidlitzia Rosmarinus mordanting time for all mordants. The (Kelyab, an Iranian native product) and authors also examined colour fastness to investigated the effectiveness of products washing, sunlight, perspiration and as degumming agents. The efficiency of pressing on four different colour shades. degumming was assessed in terms of Evaluation of physical properties of raw weight loss and tenacity. Some physical as well as dyed yarns were studied. properties of the degummed silk yarns, Further the dyed Eri silk yarns with i.e. tensile strength and the yellowness Datura dye produced various soft and index were also measured. subtle natural shades that would boost in In 2013, Kumar S. et.al. in their study preparing diversified products. emphasized about buying behavior of women customer’s towards jewellery METHODOLOGY products with special reference to Tirupur city. The authors main objective was to Material – Eri silk fabric, Silk thread get the feedback about the various factors (green, red, blue, black, golden) and affecting buying behavior of jewelery Beads (blue/red). The Eri silk fabric products and evaluated the brand obtained from the local markets of awareness and buying attitude of the Guwahati, Assam were tested for its women customer’s in purchasing of gold constructional parameters in control and at the various jewellery retail stores. scoured-bleached state. The wild silk Eri Their study was restricted only to Tirupur possess a natural colour, off-white to city, so that results cannot be generalized. yellowish. The methodology adopted for The authors reported some of the the study is illustrated briefly below. The customers are not serious in their below performance properties testing was responses to the survey and as a result carried out in Eri silk fabric in its control there are some difficulties in reaching to state. These tests were performed in this the right conclusion. Lastly the authors study to find out the performance concluded the results may help the properties of Eri silk as wearable’s and management of Jewellery retail stores to accessories were developed. However, understand about the factors that the strength, drapability, durability and influence the satisfaction of customers quality of the fabric are the basic towards retail stores. consideration of a consumer before Bhuyan S and Gogoi N (2013) purchasing a garment. emphasized on developing dye obtained Fabric tensile strength (kg) and from leaves of Datura Stramonium and elongation (%) applied on Eri silk yarns subjected to pre, Abrasion resistance (no. of rubs) Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 Fabric stiffness (cm) & Flexural Fabric that contributes to aesthetic rigidity (mg cm) appeal. Draping quality of the fabric is Fabric drape coefficient (%) expressed Fabric tensile strength (kg) and % as drape coefficient which theoretically elongation: (IS:1969-1968) varies between 0-100. Drapability of the The breaking load and elongation at silk samples were tested with the help break (i.e. the tensile strength) of the silk of a drape tester. A circular specimen fabric was samples were determined on an sandwiched between 2 horizontal discs Electronic tensile strength testing of smaller diameter. The unsupported machine by circular fabric was allowed to handle ravel strip method. The machine the action of gravity. A projection of the worked on the principle of constant rates contour as the outer shape of the of extension. draped specimen was secured on a white chart Abrasion resistance (no. of rubs): paper. The drape pattern on the paper (ASTM Standard: D4966-89) was cut along the outline and its area was Abrasion is the wearing away of any determined first by weighing and later part of the material by rubbing against the weight was converted into equivalent another area. Therefore, the drape coefficient surface. Generally, this method is not was calculated as the ratio of the suitable for piled fabrics and fabrics projected thicker area of the draped specimen to its than 3 mm because these cannot be undraped area. mounted on the specimen holder. For this study selected traditional Instrument ornamental motifs of Assam were used. used for Abrasion is Martindale Lokaparo, jethipota, thuriya, dug-dugi, abrasion tester. senpata, pepa, dhanxira, kolosi, gagori and Japi (see Table.1). Patterns developed Fabric stiffness (cm) and flexural by free hand sketching on drawing sheets rigidity (mg cm): (IS:6490-1971) from the selected motifs considering three The fabric stiffness of the silk categories – the border, main motif and specimen was carried out by Cantilever all over butis. The embellished Eri silk test. fabric was later developed to wearable’s (Jackets for men, stole’s, chador, Particular length of fabric specimen of mekhela, pocket square and kurta for specified dimension when used on cantilever men). Principle bonds to a constant angle under its own weight. DATA ANALYSIS

The present study was undertaken to Fabric drape coefficient (%): explore the possibility of restructuring (IS:8375-1977) and redesigning the traditional jewellery The fabric drape is considered as one motifs of Assam (India) over Eri silk by of the subjective performance characters traditional hand embroidery. The Eri silk of fabric obtained from the local markets of Guwahati, Assam were tested for its Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 constructional and performance parameters in control state.

The Eri silk fabric wearables embellished with traditional jewellery DISCUSSION motifs of Assam were evaluated for their acceptability between 50 Assamese Eri silk samples were tested for its women (residing in Bhopal) and 50 non tensile strength in control state and their assamese woman (regular Boutique average values of strength and elongation clients in Bhopal). are presented in Table 2. The total readings of breaking load and elongation in control state is observed as 37.8 kg and 6.98 cm respectively. These higher strength and elongation values are because of increase in the cover factor. Increase in strength is also due to increase in linear density (tex) of both warp and weft.

The original overall stiffness and

flexural rigidity of the Eri silk is observed

to be approximately 2 and 8 respectively (shown in Table 2) The control Eri silk sample shows % drape coefficient value as 80% (shown in Table 2). This higher drape is because of the presence of original stiffness of Eri fabric which is due to the presence of sericin and surface finish. In case of the control sample, after 285 rubs losses of fibres pro-truding with formation of moderate pills was observed. Also, there was approximately 3% loss in weight and 4% loss in

thickness as shown in Table 2.

From the present study it can be

observed from Table 3 and Table 4 that the embellished traditional jewellery motifs resulted in fresh and colourful pattern on developed Eri silk products. Considering all 4 attributes it was found Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. (Auto) College, India GARI Publisher | Fashion Design | Volume: 04 | Issue: 04 Article ID: IN/GARI/ICATFD/2018/121 | Pages: 28-39 (11) ISSN 2424-6492 | ISBN 978-955-7153-00-1 Edit: GARI Editorial Team | Received: 28.09.2018 | Publish: 05.11.2018 that code (K'ERISTLSEN) stole was responsible for making me this level highly accepted by Assamese women through their encouragement and respondents with a total score of 84.6% blessings. And above all my almighty god out of 1000, followed by (K'ERISTLTH) for the blessings and enlightenment at stole with score 84.4%. Whereas code every step in my life. (K’ERIWCJELO) men’s waist coat was highly accepted by the non assamese REFERENCES respondents with a score of 78.0%. Moreover, the motifs which were Piper and Brenda (1974) Fibres and gradually fading among the community Fabrics. itself showed a very good recognition Venugopal B.R. (1991) “dyeing of towards art. The embroidered Eri silk silk”, Colourage, vol-6, pg. (36-39). fabric also created a huge change in a Gogoi A. (1998)” effect of turmeric positive way among craftsman. dyes on Eri fabric after mordanting, Indian silk, Vol. 5, pg (24-27) CONCLUSION Baishya Prabin (2002). Silk Industry of Assam: A prospect , Indian Silk, Vol 9,pg Therefore, from the present study it can (27-29). be concluded that this paper first Iyer N.D. (2004) “silk the queen of analyzed the importance of traditional textile fibres-I”, colourage, vol-6, pg. (75- arts and crafts to safeguard cultural 76) identity of a community. Secondly it Sreenivasa, et.al (2005) “Development presented the possibility of merging the and study of the properties of Eri silk and traditional jewellery motifs of Assam polyester blended yarn”, Man-made (India) with Eri silk. Thirdly, revival Textiles in India, vol-1, pg. (15-18). efforts were presented among the local Naik S. D. & Vastrad J.V. (2008), artisans of the state not only to develop “Protection and revival of traditional fresh and colourful Eri silk products but hand embroidery, Kasuti by automation”, also to generate revenue, self- Indian Journal of Traditional knowledge, employment towards craftsmen and also vol-7(1), pg. (197-203) recognition of the art. Lastly it is important to adapt design elements for B.A. Shameembanu, (2009), Digitizing new crafts without destroying the cultural conventional patterns of Gujarat core that lies behind the tradition. embroidery and product development, Chakravorty R. (2010) et al. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS “Sericulture and traditional craft of silk weaving in Assam”, Indian Journal of Traditional knowledge, vol-9 (2), pg. It is my profound privilege to express (378-385). my deep gratitude to Dr (Mrs.) Ratna Sharma for her keen interest, constant Rajagopal (2010), “Consumer culture and purchase intensions towards fashion guidance and continued encouragement apparel”. throughout this work. I would like to express my heartfelt thanks to my Ronya J. (2010), “Product Husband Mr. Pankaj K Dutta for his help Diversification on Eri silk”. and moral support throughout the course Kulkarni A. A. (2011), et.al. “Physical of my study. Last but not the least, words properties of developed viscose Rayon or deeds are not enough to thank my and Eri silk union fabrics”, Karnataka entire family and my little one who are Author: - Dr. Ratna Sharma, Kaveri Dutta Department of Textiles & Clothing, Govt. M.L.B P.G. 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