Vareuse Et Beret Basque Pour Costume Marin

1908 #19 Jacket and Beret for Sailor Outfit -- Vareuse et Beret Basque Pour Costume Marin

We do not give you the model of the skirt, because it is composed, quite simply, of a band of material having the height wanted for Bleuette – 15 centimeters, hem included, will be enough, and 70 to 80 length. It is folded in box pleats and one mounts it on a circular waistband. Above the hem, a double row of stitches or narrow white braid.

Vareuse [Jacket]. For the jacket, you need six patterns. We give them to you, here, to the size of execution for Bleuette. You will thus only have to trace them.

#1 Half of the sailor collar (fig.6). See the following page. To use the space sparingly, the artist has put it in the beret. The side where these words are inscribed: “pli de le etoffe” [fold of the fabric] is the middle of the back; it must be placed edge to edge with the fold of the fabric folded double.

Cut out even with the pattern, because this last includes seams and turn backs. The collar can be, as you like, hemmed or bound. You will decorate it like the skirt, either with two rows of stitching, or with a narrow white braid.

#2 Half of the plastron (fig.5, on the following page, in the beret). The fold of the fabric is in the middle of the front. The plastron is sewn on only one side of the front of the jacket and under the sailor collar. You decorate it as much as you like with wide braids [or stripes] or with small dots embroidered in the same [color].

#3 Half of the devant [front] (fig. 8). One folds the fabric double wrong-side against wrong-side or right-side against right-side, and the pattern is placed on top of it. Cut out even with this last [the pattern]. The two fronts are the same. They are connected to the back by the side seam.

#4 Half of the dos [back] (fig.7). The fold of the fabric is in the middle of the back. The side of the pattern where is written: “milieu du dos” [middle of the back] must be placed edge to edge with the fold of the fabric.

#5 Manche [Sleeve] (fig.1). It is of only one piece. The pattern gives you half of it. You will thus place it on the fabric folded double. The fold of the fabric is on the side of the elbow. This side of the pattern must be placed edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. One closes the sleeve by the seam of the crook of the arm. The bottom is gathered in order to bring it back to the width of the poignet [cuff] (fig.3).

The cuff (fig.3) is sewn onto the gathered bottom of the sleeve. Its turn back is bordered [or bound] with a braid.

Under the collar, you pass a tie of silk which you tie in a regatta [knot].

Basque beret (fig.4). It is only one large fabric circle the size indicated by the drawing. One assembles it by gathering it, onto a bias [strip] of fabric having two and a half centimeters of width by 21 of length (measurement of the circumference of Bleuette’s head).

One folds back the bias [strip] to the wrong side, in order to hide the seam.

The anchor is embroidered in red silk or in white silk. It is well placed on the drawing.

To make this small outfit, take serge or linen in navy blue. It will be better to make the beret in wool, even if the outfit is in linen.

Once can also make this beret in white [wool] flannel, and then it would have the advantage of being able to be worn with all the outfits. And it is a mistake to believe that the white woolens are more easily soiled than the colored woolens, in summer especially there is nothing more practical. One washes this like a pocket handkerchief and the washing succeeds very well, providing that one does not use cold water. All which is out of wool must be washed in tepid water, without which the fabric hardens, felts, shrinks and is soon out of use.

This small beret can take on a cover for the nape of the neck. It is quite simply a small rectangle of white linen [or fabric] which fits at the back of the beret, either by buttonholes entering buttons placed on the beret, or by a tie passed in a casing made in the neck cover. This last hangs down at the back preventing the sun from striking the back of the head, and protects [one] from often deadly sunstroke.

Naturally, if Bleuette does not have a neck cover, she will not be the worse for it; but the purpose of these little sewing lessons is not only to amuse you by dressing the doll, but also to give you the correct concepts on this art of the needle which you must, one day, know and practice thoroughly.