@n excellent ...... Page 4 SUNDAY, AUGUST 27, 2017 INTERNET EDITION : www.dailyexcelsior.com/magazine Appearing for...Page2 THE TEMPLE OF VASUKI NAG

Sandeep Singh Serpent worship has a very ancient origin and was rife in many countries of the world. Serpents figured predom- inantly in the religious pantheons of ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, Chinese and Japanese. In serpent worship dates back to the time of the Indus valley civiliza- tion i.e. 3000 years B.C . A number of seals found at Mohen-jo-Daro contain figures with hooded snakes at their backs. The Naga or Serpent is an important powerful symbol in the iconography of both “Shiva” and “ Vishnu” and images of Shiva prominently display a serpent around his neck symbolizing his cosmic energy while Vishnu is often depicted reclining on the endless coils of the serpent “Ananta” , upon whom the world is believed to rest.“Krishna”, a human incarnate of Vishnu is sheltered by the multiple hoods of the Snake-Demon-Kaliya Nag. It is considered a sin to kill these reptiles and particu- larly the Cobra or “Nag”. Moreover, certain families hes- itate even to think of causing damage to the snakes. It has been noticed from several Hindu traditions that they started propitiating those from whom they had a fear and had no control over them. For e.g. the man had no con- trol over fire, floods or wind and so our ancestors consid- ered them as deities namely Agni Devta , Jal Devta, Varun Devta etc. and worshipped them believing that they would not be harmed by these if they are appeased. Many peoples were also killed by snake bites and so it may be the reason that they also worshipped snakes. One such annual pilgrimage is dedicated to seven headed Lord Serpent ‘ Vasuki Naag’ held annually from happens on every alternate year amidst chanting of holy to the Serpent King and pledged in front of him that he named the place as ‘Wasak Chala’. With time the place Krishna Paksha Saptami in Bhadrapad month (August- hymns along with the chief priest of the temple. From will build a temple in Basohli where people can worship got religious reverence and is frequented by number of September). The yatra begins on the seventh day during Duggan the yatra reaches Mankot and then Bablehr, Vasuki Nag, an incarnation of lord Vishnu. While going devotees who want to pay their obeisance to Vasuki Nag. the waning phase of moon in Bhadrapad and ends on the where the yatris stay put for night. On the second day of back, Raja Bhupat Pal was worried about realizing his Few months later when the idols were carved, Raja no moon day in the month as per traditional calendar fol- their pilgrimage, all the yatris start their journey early to vow and thought that who will construct the temple and Bhupat Pal gave instructions to bring these idols to lowed in North India. the miraculous, enchanting and enthralling spiritual spot from where he will get the idol of Vasuki Nag. Since, pic- Basohli from Bhadarwah. The craftsmen packed the idols Kailash kund(Kaplash) also known as Vasuki kund, is of ‘Kailash Kund’. The sacred kund epitomizes a rare of turesque Bhadarwah with Ashapati mountain rising at with utmost care and placed them in a palanquin and abode of Nagraj Vasuki and is situated at a height of rarest combination of spirituality in the heart, mind and the back has a temple devoted to Vasuki Nag having started their journey towards Basohli. On the way, 14500 ft. above sea level. It is a famous place of pilgrim- soul of all those who trek the pilgrimage to the sanctimo- exquisitely carved images of Vasuki Nag and Jimut through Lowang(in Bani) the craftsmen along with the age and the Kund is a big lake of cold, crystal clear water nious sacred kund which is so conveniently called as the Vahan, who, as we know, offered his own flesh to appease palanquin reached Panealagh(in Bani), Panealagh in having a circumference of 1.5 miles. Every year thousands holy kund. Here the pilgrims come with utmost reverence the infuriated Garuda while he was chasing Vasuki Nag. Dogri means Paani-Laagh i.e. near water, where they stay of pilgrims from districts of Chamba, , , to pay obeisance and obtain blessings. The black-stone statues of Vasuki and his benefactor put for the night. In the morning the craftsmen tried to Doda, Jammu and outside states participate in Kailash In 1629, Raja Bhupat Pal of Balaor(Basohli) annexed are about six feet tall. They are placed on an elaborately lift the palanquin but to their surprise they were unable to Yatra which commences on the 14th day after Shravan Bhadarwah and interactions between Basohli and carved pedestal about two feet high. The images are life- uplift that palanquin which carried the idols of Vasuki Purnima. Every Nag has his yatra when people go to the Bhadarwah happens through Chattar Gala Pass but there like and exude grace and tranquility. After knowing about Nag. A passerby, after witnessing the efforts of craftsmen Naga shrine in colorful processions, pilgrims keep awake is a famous folklore which relates Panealagh with the this magnificent temple of Vasuki Nag, Raja Bhupat Pal who were toiling hard to elevate the palanquin, suggested all nights singing Bhajans, Kirtans, shouting Jai Ghosh revered Vasuki Nag and how the temple of Vasuki Nag directed the sculptors of Bhadarwah to carve the same them to call the chief priest(chela) of Vasuki Nag. The and dancing to the melodious tune of Dhakku. was built in Panealagh, a little known place of Bani in idols for the temple which he wants to construct at chief priest when reached the spot paid his obeisance Main yatra starts from Gatha, Bhadarwah as the Kathua district. According to the legend, Raja Bhupat Pal Basohli. Soon after, the King left for Basohli via Chhattar with utmost reverence to the idols placed in the palan- Vasuki Nag or Wasak is regarded as the Kul-Devta, tute- of Basohli went to Kailash Kund and tried to traverse the gala pass, the most famous and intensively used route in lary deity of Bhadarwah. The track from Seoj passes quin and obtained blessings from Vasuki Nag and told Kund by using an air filled bag made from the skin of the past connecting Basohli with Bhadarwah. When the them that the Serpent King does not want to go to Basohli through the spot called as Shank Padar & Ramtund which Buck unaware of the presence of Serpent King, Vasuki King reached Chattar Gala Pass he felt thirsty and started is known for its religious legends called 'SHAGARAN' so it is better if they build the temple of Vasuki Nag at Nag in Kailash Kund. As the King reached in the middle drinking water from a stream. While drinking water the Panealagh and install the idols here. (Two stones which exactly resembles the face of King noticed that something has struck in his hands and Hanuman). Huge stone contains etch mark and an etched of the Kund a giant Nag appeared from inside the Kund This is the second temple in Bani, devoted to Vasuki line which are believed to be the spot where the fleeing and clinged Raja Bhupat Pal. The Raja regretted his igno- when he took his hands out of the stream he found the Nag built by Raja Bhupat Pal where as the temple in Vaski Naag' wept while taking rest on the said stone. rance of daring to traverse the Kailash Kund which is the same ear-ring in his hand which he had given to the Duggan was built 40 years prior to the temple at Enroute join a number of Yatras, besides yatras from abode of Nag Raj Vasuki and vowed in front of the Nag Vasuki Nag at Kailash Kund to honour his oath that he Panealagh. The king patronized the priest of this temple Chamba and Duggan Vasuki temple which join main Raj that he will stop his voyage mid-way and will return will not traverse the Kailash Kund besides constructing a by allotting them free of cost land so that they can utilize yatra at Kailash. back. temple at Basohli. Feeling astonished to see the ear ring the land to make their end meets besides serving at the From Vasuki Nag Temple, Duggan in Bani the yatra To give honor to his vow the Raja offered his ear-rings in his hand and the serenity round the stream, the Raja temple of Vasuki Nag.

The 85 kms road from Bandipora to is quite zigzag GUREZ and rough. The breathtaking alpine peaks , dense kail and fir forests , high altitude Birch trees (burza), and trickling waterfalls hardly make one feel he is travelling through such a treacherous road which usually remains Preserve its pristine ethnicity closed for at least 6 months a year during winter season. give the contract to NHPC against few megawatts of power in return ? As per my information out of 330 megawatts of power that would be generated in 1st phase from this Hydro Electric project , J&K state will get less than 40 megawatts of power. Gurez valley consists of around 10 revenue villages. Out of these ten villages four villages namely Nile , Khopri Hejan, Badwan and Wanpora have been almost complete- ly demolished. These villages will be submerged by next year when dam is filled with the water . The headquarters of Gurez valley Dawar will also be affected. TULAIL VALLEY After halting at Dawar , we left for Tulail valley on July 8th. Tulail is part of Gurez sub division and comprises of several villages. This area had no road connectivity even until early 1990s. People from Gurez used to travel by foot to reach different villages of Tulail valley . The vale of Tulail consists of more than one dozen villages. When we leave Dawar, the headquarter of Gurez sub division , we reach village Barnai which is around 15 kms from Dawar. After Barnai , we cross several villages like Kashpath , Zadgai, Purana Tulail , Gobazan , Neeru , Badogam, Sardaab, Buglinder, Hussangam, Malangam, Badoaab, Gujraan, Abdulen and Chakwali. From Dawar to Chakwali the total distance is around 63 kms. Badogam (big village) as the name indicates is the headquarter of Tulail valley. There is a Block office in Badogam and this place was given a tehsil status as well around two years back. We went until Sardbaad village which is around 40 kms from Dawar. Kishen Ganga river flows through the Tulail valley as well Dr Raja Muzaffar Bhat kail and fir forests , high altitude Birch trees (burza) , and is part of a run-of-the-river hydropower scheme that is and all the villages in Tulail are located on its banks as well. trickling waterfalls hardly make one feel he is travelling designed to divert water from the Kishen Ganga River to a CONCLUSION Gurez the valley of meadows, snowcapped mountains and above all the land of Shinas is under threat . For many through such a treacherous road which usually remains power plant in the basin at Bandipora. Illegal stone crushing units and macadam /hot-mix years I had an urge to visit this place, but the same could closed for at least 6 months a year during winter season. At Another village which has been badly affected is Badwan plants have been established in dense forests of Gurez val- not materialize. In the month of July this year I finally vis- Razdan pass more than 15 feet snow can be seen during where the dam has been constructed to halt the water, ley. The traditional log huts are being demolished not only ited Gurez valley along with my friends . We were lucky winters said Mohammad Ramzan Khan . which would be diverted through a 23 kms long tunnel to by locals but the Government is also involved in this enough to have O P Sharma Vidhyarthi IFS with us during After coming down from the Razdan pass we were Bandipora area where the power house is under construc- heinous crime. Log huts have been the hallmark of Gurez , this trip. Mr Sharma who is Director Ecology , enjoying the drive and the local flora and fauna. The way tion. The entire population of Badwan has already been but no steps are being taken to preserve them by authori- Environment & Remote Sensing is an authority not only on Sharma ji explained the medicinal value of different wild dislocated. ties. I saw thousands of pinus trees fallen due to snowfall forests but he has in-depth information about each and flowers and even thorny herbs, all my friends started taking It was an emotional seen to see men and women collect- and same are made to rot in the jungles from Bandipora to every twig , wild flower or plant we find in the forests of pictures of these flowers and herbs. But as soon as we ing demolished items and household scrap at several vil- Gurez . I am unable to understand why cannot these logs be Jammu & Kashmir. Mohammad Ramzan Khan a social entered Gurez valley , we first reached Kanzalwan and then lages like Badwan , Wanpora , Khopri Hejan . Shinas have utilized to renovate old wooden structures in Gurez ? Even activist from Achoora village of Gurez valley had invited us Nile, a tiny village located on banks of Kishen Ganga river . been living in these villages from ages and centuries. They to visit Gurez. during construction of new structures in Gurez , why can- KISHEN GANGA DAM have an emotional attachment to their villages. One could not these logs be used in all the buildings from outside ?. After crossing Razdan top from Bandipora side Mr have understood the compulsions of Jammu & Kashmir The ongoing construction of a dam for 330 Megawatt Nearly 3 dozen shabby Govt schools and Govt offices have Sharma made us to stop after every single kilometer. He Government, had the state run J&K Power Development Kishen Ganga Hydro Electric project in this area suddenly been constructed in Gurez and Tulail from last 5 years and explained in detail about the herbs, wild flowers and trees Corporation (JKPDC) been allotted this project, but the we came across on the Bandipora Gurez road. It took us made all of us very sad. The villages seemed to have been not a single such structure gives a traditional look. It is previous Government claimed that they had no sufficient more than 5 hours to reach Dawar town of Gurez which bombed by the Construction company HCC which has been impressed upon the Government to declare Gurez valley as equity to take up this project , J&K Government allotted otherwise is only a 3 hours drive from Bandipora. hired by National Hydro Electric Power Corporation an eco tourism destination. Before any construction prior the contract to NHPC. When our Government was not in a The 85 kms road from Bandipora to Gurez is quite (NHPC) . The Kishen Ganga river is being diverted through permission should be availed from an authority that would position to take up this project , what was the urgency to zigzag and rough. The breathtaking alpine peaks , dense a tunnel . This dam is going to cost Rs 10,000 million which take care of local traditions and environment.