4. off the beaten tracks

4

Down the river The Manambolo, The Tsiribihina, The Pangalanes Birdwatching Whale watching Classic Tours Sites and Classified Monuments

69 Down the riverside . The Manambolo To go to Manambolo, one has first to cross the splendid volcanic region of Itasy. Descent is generally by canoë from through a landscape which looks lunar at times, but where life is never totally absent. For example, sometimes flocks of children run along the shore to accompany the boats and greet with their innocent laughter. It is not sailing only for the sake of it, as other attractions are organized during the route, what with excursions in the canyons, healing pauses at natural swimming pools, nights in bivouac. One of the highlights is the crossing of the Gorges upstream Bekopaka, and on the cliff side, openings of mysterious caves. Bekopaka, a must-stay on the route to the Tsingy, is well bustling with life until about 9 p.m, with on the one hand the tourists preparing their visit programme, and on the other the village people busy to sell their small products. After crossing the neighbouring Tsiribihina by ferry, the dry forest of Kirindy gives an overview of its vegetation and fauna with its reptiles, birds and lemurs. Then it’s a combination of land-water “soft” but rich in colourful discoveries. Then , passing, everyone would have guessed it, along the Baobab Lane... . The Tsiribihina The majestic Tsiribihina will lead you to the immense spaces of the West. , the boarding point, is reached via Antsirabe, the capital of the fertile region of Vakinankaratra. The Tsiribihina and its tributaries used to be enlivened by the barges going up and down the river to transport tobacco from isolated plantations. The same barges have been kept, but fitted for carrying passengers, with a kitchen at the back and a solarium on the roof! The guides 70 Madagascar Off The Beaten Tracks

know well which affluent to take to reach any one of the numerous falls and 4 their crystalline waters along the route. No one would think of depriving oneself of a halt in the shade of kapok and mango trees. From Belo sur Tsiribihina, main venue of the ceremony Fitampoha, a track leads to Bekopaka in half a day travel to the furthermost bounds of the spectacular Tsingy of Bemaraha. We are all totally in the land of “earthly” adventure and discovery now. Then road to the south again, and we are in the country of 7 varieties of baobabs. Terminus at Morondava for those wishing to stop, for others there is a 80 km “small” extension to and its traditional shipyards. . The Pangalanes This waterway which links la- kes and lagoons along the straight east coast is gra- dually recovering its initial impor- tance thanks to the dredging of the most obs- tructed portions. Flat-bottomed motor boats of groups of tourists regularly circulate again between Toamasina, Tapakala, Akanin’ny Nofy “the Home of Dreams”, Ambila Lemaitso, Vatomandry, Mahanoro. The best access to the Pangalanes Canal is through Manambato on the shores of Lake Rasoabe. The best periods are from March to April, and September to December. All East Coast tours generally plan 2 to 3 nights on the Pangalanes before continuing to Tamatave and Sainte Marie. 71 Birdwatching

several countries. Bezaha, Mahafaly, Berenty. Not to forget In Africa, birds often live in savannahs. In Ma- Ankarana, in the north and the oldest park, the dagascar, they prefer the forests, especially the Mountain of Amber (75 species). humid eastern forests, which shelter 50% of The passionate of big gatherings can the endemic bird species, and for great ga- choose between several coastline sites therings, they prefer water sites. The (Ramena, Bay of Baly, Nosy Ve, estua- last three months of the year are the ries of the big western rivers …), as most propitious for birdwatching, as well as the lakes like Tsimanam- birds are then easier to locate becau- petsotse, Ramsar site since 1998. se of their songs.

• THE MAIN SPOTS In Antananarivo, the park of Tsarasaotra “ Show me a bird and I’ll design you a product” (more than 60 species) is the first private site (Claude Feigné). classified as Ramsar site in the world. Andasibe Mantadia (16 bird orders and 120 species) is There are not as many bird more and more in competition with Anjozoro- species as in other countries be (82 species of which 43 are endemic) which in Madagascar: 285 only is 2h drive from the capital. To the west, Ankara- against 1000 in Kenya, fantsika is a must (58.14% endemicity rate), as for example. The dif- well as Bemaraha. Among the other protected ference, and it is a areas, birdwatchers enjoy the sites like Masoala substantial one, is (the largest park in Madagascar), Ranomafana, that out of these 285 species, 110 are endemic. In other countries, bird fauna is often at a continen- tal level and is identical in 72 Madagascar Off The Beaten Tracks

Whale watching Sainte Marie, where whale watching as a trade is well organized, with experience going

th back to 1994. The Association Megaptera and The Indian Ocean, a hunting zone in the 19 and on the surface. Anyway, this makes taking the Group of Tourism Operators (GOT) offer a even at the beginning of the 20th century, has photos, which are indispensable for the identi- scientific supervision of cruises for whale become a sanctuary for whales since 1979. Ma- fication of each individual, easier. The whales watching, with explanations on board 4 dagascar humpback whales come from Antarc- may be watched in the waters of Nosy Be, followed by conferences in the evening. tica where they have spent the whole southern Tuléar, Fort Dauphin or Morondava, but Support materials have been made, of which a summer stuffing themselves with krill. By June, there are two major outstanding spots: “Practical Guide” designed for whale watchers the first to arrive after a 5000 km voyage are the and a “Code of good behaviour”. breastfeeding mothers, followed by their offs- The Bay of Antongil, which is an important pring from the previous year. Then the whale spawning zone. There the Wildlife Conserva- The last word by a passionate, Paul Martin : watching period extends to September. It is all tion Society works in collaboration with the “Since 1988 I have been at 500 outings for the more spectacular as the humpback whales local operators to optimize the initiatives with whale watching, taken thousands of photos, are the most gifted in the art of jumping a view to enhancing value and preserving the registered tens of hours of video. One year after called “breaching”. They have the peculiar ca- whales. A Whale Festival was organised for the the other, I recognize the same subjects, and I pacity to get out of first time in 2004. want to believe that they recognize me too…”

water entirely, and fall down with im- pressive flurries of foam. But one will always wonder why the whales have this strange attitude of leaving their caudal fin motionless 73 Classic Tours

As an Isle-continent because of its surface, re the ancient Merina aristocratic dwellings, Madagascar will never run out of its resources all built in height. To the southwest, Antsaha- in terms of hiking and discovery. Therefore dinta goes back even further in time with its the following is only a few samples given for wooden and vegetal fiber houses, its comme- information. morative stones in memory of some victory, • ANTANANARIVO and its ancient tombs. The Old City of Antananarivo is an invitation to • The ANKARATRA trips in time and space into the depths of the Access to this mythical and most interesting history it witnessed. A number of routes have chain is by Manjakatompo, 20 km to the west been laid out by the departments and orga- of Ambatolampy along the RN7. From this nizations in station at over 2000 m altitude, climbing the charge of Mount Tsiafajavona will be done following heritage pre- a trail lined with lakes, falls and evidence of servation. animist cult. - Tour “Sacred sites and blacksmiths’ villages”: 2 days It is easy of • TRAILS AND EARTH ROADS and 1 night in a gîte. You will get acquainted with the access and The province of Antananarivo has an incredi- traditional iron crafts and the customs in the Vakinan- the least ble network of rural karatra. courageous roads that opera- • THE ZAFIMANIRY LAND may reach tors in VTT or Quad UNESCO declared Zafimaniry art as Immaterial it comforta- are beginning to be World Heritage on 31 December 2003 and this bly by car, interested in. It is marked a decisive turning point in the history or on foot absolutely possible of this region. An international fund has been f o l l o w i n g to reach Ampefy, allocated for preserving wood work, cultural winding al- Mantasoa or even tourism development and biodiversity conser- leys, or even by taking a shortcut along the Antsirabe without vation. It has provided for the training of 20 tou- numerous stairways the toughest of which is following any sec- rist guides, 4 from each commune. If Zafimaniry the one that starts from Mahamasina stadium tion of the National art remains the main motive for visitors, the re- and which numbers as many as 480 steps! Road at all! gion also offers a number of magnificent places • THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE • ANTSIRABE and the VAKINANKARATRA scattered in the hills to visit; they are accessible The 12 Sacred Hills Hiking tours organized with guides from the only on foot. The 12 sacred hills are favourable places Association Ravaka will immerse the visitor in • AMBALAVAO for hiking and each of them may be toured rural daily life. “Gîtes” are traditional houses in Average annual temperature is 20°C at Amba- in combination with other neighbouring the heart of villages. lavao, which is ideal for hiking. Nicolas Nast, hills in a typical scenery of rice fields, slopes, - Tour “Country people of the Highlands”: 2 days’ walk and 1 formerly a Volunteer (from Volontaire du Pro- remnants of ancient red earth walls. Their night in a gîte. This route forms a loop which starts from the grès) who worked in the field of sustainable summits have often become places for west of Antsirabe to the encounter of the rural population in tourism development, proposes a few routes: “Fanasinana” (Ancestors’ cult) painted in the an environment of medium high mountains. - Tour “Manambolo river and the Three brothers”: 40 red and white royal colours. In the countryside - Tour “Gem miners of Ibity”: The same duration with km from the zebu market place at Iarintsena. Manambo- to the north of Antananarivo, which is called possibility for extension. Starts from Manandona and lo steep -sided valley, tombs perched on cliff sides, view Avaradrano, in villages such as Lazaina, visits the extraction sites one after the other in a very over the forest of Anja. Ambatofotsy or Manandriana, you will admi- diversified wildlife. - Tour “Ambohimandroso and the Rock of Ifandana”: 74 Madagascar Off The Beaten Tracks

30 km, Ambalavao-Ambalavao. Ambohimadroso, the • SAINTE MARIE of VTT … Sites and Classified oldest village in the region. The Rock of Infandana, a With its small hills and its wild tracks some- place where people resisting Radama I army committed times in the form of a small trail along the Monuments collective suicide. The pond of Vinany with its birds. seaside, Sainte Marie is a paradise for VTT - Tour “Caimans’ route and Mountain of the Lying Lady”: riders who are not afraid of difficulties. There 15 km from Ambalavao at Iarintsena. Trails between the are 5 routes: mountains. Once on top, unique panorama. Climbing - The southwest coast, between the town and the airport. down to the south “ at …the foot of the head” of the Coastline with luxuriant vegetation sprinkled with pictu- Lying Lady. resque huts, practically no slope. - Tour ”The Anja forest and the Massif of the Three - The west coast, between the town and Lonkitsy. With brothers”: 15 km from the forest of Anja to Ambalavao. Visi- fairly marked slope and several turns, experience is ting the forest, caves; view over the basin of Ambalavao. required. Special mention about the Mountain of - The northwest coast, between Lonkintsy and Ambo- Ambondrombe, 45 km to the east of Ambala- diatafana. Fairly tiring because of its length and uneven Madagascar counts 146 classified sites and mo- vao, a place where the souls of the dead stay grounds, it is however fascinating because of the beauty numents of which only 27 have been restored to for eternity. The Association of Populations of the landscape along the route. date. Some of them are now included in world heritage, like the royal hill of Ambohimanga, of Mountains (APMM) has developed several the Tsingy of Bemaraha, the cliffs and caves tours of which: of Isandra, or the Mahafaly hinterland. Among - mountain climbing these sites and by province, we can cite in: - visit to villages specialized in traditional silk weaving • ANTANANARIVO - nature tour with bivouac Antananarivo: the Rova plateau, the comme- 4 - routes to the gold mines and fortifications of ancient reigning morative churches, the hill of Antsahadinta, families. the falls of Tsinjoarivo, the mountain of Tsia- • THE MOUNTAIN OF THE FRENCH (DIEGO SUAREZ) fajavona, the vestiges of Jean Laborde works at Mantasoa, the primitive vegetation of Ibity Rather hard to climb (it is dubbed the Way near Antsirabe, and the lake Itasy. of the Cross) but it is worth the effort. On top you will find vestiges of military camps and • ANTSIRANANA or DIEGO SUAREZ Analamera, the Sugar Loaf, the Mountain of caves. From there you will see at a glance the Amber, the Caves of Orangea, the Caves of town of Diego Suarez, the Bay and its Sugar Ankarana, the Sacred Lake of Antanavo, the loaf, the whole area extending to the Cape of Royal Palace of Ankify, the Falls of the Maha- Amber. vavy. • PEAK SAINT LOUIS (FORT DAUPHIN) • FIANARANTSOA At 529 m altitude, Peak Saint Louis is an excep- - The “Small loop” forming the triangle Ambodifotatra- The Old City, the royal tomb of Vohitsisaky, tional panoramic viewpoint over the whole Ambodiforaha-Mahavelo, a tough route with a few the Massif of Ifandana, the forests of Faliarivo region of Fort Dauphin from the bay of Sainte sandy sections, and the “track of the Mandraka” which and Ambohitsara, the Cascade of Sakaleona, Luce to the lake Andriambe passing by the tip climbs up or down the inland hills. the Falls of Namorona. Evatra, the Cove Dauphine, the false Bay of - The “Big loop”, a little less than 50 km long. It goes • MAHAJANGA or MAJUNGA Galions. upward the west coast to Ankirihiry, crosses the hills to The baobab, the emblem of the town, the caves Two trails lead to the summit, one is a very Sahasifotra and continues along the east coast. Adven- of Andranoboka, the Sacred lake of Ampijoroa, tough one (1h30), the other is relatively easier ture and discovery are awaiting for you… the Sakalava cemetery of Nosy Lava, the silici- (2 to 3h walk). fied trees of , the burial places • … AND SAINTE MARIE OF ORCHIDS of Bekopaka, the Gorges of Manambolo. Sainte Marie lavish vegetation accounts for • TOAMASINA or TAMATAVE the high number of epiphyt plants. The island The Cascades of Mangoro, the lake Alaotra, boasts at least ten orchid species or so, of the historical vestiges at Farafaty, Foulpointe, which some are among the most beautiful Sainte Marie, Nosy Mangabe, the sacred eel and rarest in Madagascar: the White orchid pond of Savaiza at Vatomandry, the natural bridge of Manandra. or Angraecum Sesquipedale, the Mauve orchid or Eulophiella Roempleriana (the most spec- • TOLIARA ou TULEAR tacular one and existing only on the “ Ile aux The site of Saint Augustin, Nosy Ve, the fossil Nattes”), the Black orchid or Cymbidiella deposit of Ambolisaotra, the Caves of Saro- drano, the Baobab lane, the palm trees of Humblotii… For the passionate, a special tour Malio, the Bay of Sainte Luce, and Peak Saint Orchids may be organized at Sainte Marie Louis, the cliffs of Cape Sainte Marie. from July to December in connection with botanical trips. 75