EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

Checklist and FAQ’s for PERUVIAN Expeditions:

GENERAL:

The equipment and clothing you bring with you will play an essential role in the quality of your experience. If you have any questions or need clarification please contact me and I will respond as soon as I can. Please note that suggestions that I have made are based on familiarity with the product. It isn’t necessarily the exact type you NEED! Find out which gear that works best for you.

If you go to the gear shop in California or Kuala Lumpur, bring this sheet and they will fall over themselves knowing that you might spend lots in their shop. They will have a good selection of boots, for example. Try to find something that fits you comfortably. Walk around the shop in them for half an hour whilst buying other goodies. If your feet start to reject them within half an hour then try another brand. A good boot is one that FITS. Likewise a good set of is a set that fits the boots that fit your feet.

Make sure that your current gear is light, durable and in good repair. The bargains are usually online or in sales in your own country. I don’t recommend purchasing any technical gear in the shops in Peru as it is definitely not cheaper, sometimes poorly stocked and occasionally the clothing brand is a cheap imitation that will not last.

Also, please ask yourself if you normally run hot or slightly cold. Do you get cold fingers or toes easily? This will also have a bearing on which end of the temperature scale you want to purchase for boots and gloves. More on this later.

Since we’re going high, you’re gloves will need to stay on. Practice tying knots, threading your harness, zipping your jacket etc. If your gear zips aren’t already extended, add some thin accessory cord so you can get through your layers or into your pockets with gloves on.

This list does not include whatever you might want to wear to the disco in Huaraz, or however many pairs of shorts you bring on holiday. That’s for you to decide, but remember, your bag will be full so pack wisely or be prepared for the excess baggage charges on flights and buses. On with the show….

CLOTHING:

Layering is the key to this system. Make sure your system works by trying it out as best you can beforehand.

Boots – – checkout the ‘Nepal’ range for the ‘Evo’ or ‘Cube’, or for something slightly warmer the ‘Spantik’ or Scarpa Mont Blanc or Triolet series, Millet Brenva Evo, and Mammut also have suitable products.

Plastic boots aren’t necessary but are acceptable (especially if you own a pair already) I will be in leather boots with standard gaiters, but you may wish to consider purchasing a ‘super gaiter’ or a boot with a super gaiter for extra warmth.

The conditions for climbing at altitude in Peru are similar to that of climbing in NZ in winter. Peru is definitely a drier climate (than NZ) so -5C won’t feel as bitter as -5C in NZ.

Approach shoes – Something that will allow you to float up the valley. This can be an old set of runners, trail shoe or light weight trekking boot.

2-3 Pairs of socks and/ or liner socks if that makes your boots fit and your feet protest less.

Climbing pants – Lightweight. These pants are great for the walk in which can be rather hot, and you can upgrade the insulation with thermals (see below)

Fleece pants and Merino, Polypro or capilene thermals/ long johns – some climbs will warrant either or both of these depending on the weather and altitude.

Storm Pants – Gore Tex or E-Vent style with full-length zips.

Long sleeve tops: At least 2 of the following combinations, Merino or Fleece or Polypro (eg 1 x 100 weight, 1 x 200 weight). Preferably with a high zip collar.

Fleece Jacket or Windstopper style soft shell. Lighter gauge rather than thick and heavy

Parka/ Storm Jacket – Gore Tex or E-Vent style climbing jacket.

Down Jacket – with or without hood. Not a lightweight PrimaLoft, but a full on Goose down jacket, mainly for use at , over your sleeping bag or as a belay jacket while climbing.

Climbing Gloves – 2 X Fingers and 2 X Mittens. One of each of these can be the state of the art type – the other can be lightweight polypro and dachstein woolen mitts. It’s not a bad idea to attach leashes to your mitts.

Waterproof Over Mitts – so that’s 5 sets of gloves in total. Don’t lose those digits.

Sun Hat – Baseball or Legionnaires

Neck Gaiter – Cheese cloth or Buff (one costs $1, the other costs $40). Could also be a balaclava.

Wool/ Fleece/ Windstopper hat that fits under your helmet

Gaiters- standard alpine gaiters, or super gaiter

TECHNICAL GEAR:

Crampons – Black Diamond Sabre tooth or G12 (not G10’s). I rate the fit of the plastic toe bail well above the metal one. Make sure your crampons fit nicely to your boots. For trip C I recommend vertical front points (BD Cyborg or G14)

Harness and – Can be BD Alpine Bod harness, or similar. If you already have a harness that’s fine too. The Alpine Bod style harness is lights and easy to get in and out of with crampons on. Important for toilet stops. If you don’t already own a belay device get the Reverso4.

Locking – X 5 (Two large and 3 small)

Snaplock carabiners – X 2

Ice Axe and hammer – BD Venom style, Grivel Air tech evolution or Matrix, Petzl Summit axe / Quark Hammer. For trip A you do not need a hammer, for trip C I recommend two short, ergonomic technical tools

Prusiks – 6mm nylon cord (must be rated rope) 2 medium length (navel to chin when tied) and one long (toe to navel when tied)

Helmet – one that your headlamp attaches to easily e.g. BD Half Dome

Walking poles – Optional.

Ice Screws – I recommend one BD turbo express 22cm for all trips.

Snow stakes – You don’t need to purchase these. If you own one and want to bring it let me know.

Sewn slings – 90cm X 18mm or 120mm X 12mm (somewhere in that range) this is to construct a cows tail or safety line. You may substitute the sewn sling for a 3m length of dynamic UIAA rated (1) single climbing rope. I will help you construct your safety line.

Plus a 60cm x 12mm (to construct a runner with your snap gate carabiners) you can substitute with a if you already own one.

PERSONAL CAMPING GEAR:

Sleeping Bag – Rated for 4 seasons. At least 900 down fill. We will camp between 4300m and 5300m.

Sleeping Pads – Thermarest/ ExPed/ Ensolite. Bring your repair kits too. A cheap closed cell foam pad can give you extra comfort. This can be purchased at home or it’s one item you can purchase in Huaraz to save on bulk.

Tents – I will have a number of tents to allow us to move up and down the mountain with more space at Base Camp, and less space at high camp. Please let me know if you have a suitable tent that you would like to bring.

LUGGAGE:

Everything should fit into a large capacity Expedition Pack around 60 litres (this should be able to hold your crampons and snow stakes on the outside and A Duffell bag that your expedition pack will fit into. This isn’t absolutely necessary, but it protects your pack on the international flight, and then allows you to have some room to manoeuvre your gear once in Peru.

Day pack – Carry on baggage/ walk in pack. Approx 30-40 litres.

MISCELLANEOUS PERSONAL GEAR:

Water Bottles – 2 x 1litre Nalgene style wide mouth bottles. Buy or make an insulating pouch to allow you to keep hot water hot and stop liquids from freezing. NO ‘Camelbak’ or ‘Platypus’ style bladders on this trip. The hoses freeze and render your system useless.

Cup, Bowl, Spoon and knife - Camp life will be just fine without a fork. We will mostly eat foods that are chopped finely, easy to chew and digest. We’ll save the Steaks and Roast chicken for back in town

Watch – Preferably with alarm and Altimeter

Ear Plugs – Oink, snore and wind proof

Camera, memory cards and batteries.

Headlamp – BD ReVolt style with spare batteries. Save the planet and bring rechargeable batteries.

Sunglasses and Snow Goggles – BOTH please! With maximum UV protection. Julbo style glacier glasses with blinkers.

Stuff Sacs/ dry bags – Don’t have to be the Sea to Summit style, but make sure they are sturdy if they are plastic. It’s amazing how much more organized your gear will be with different coloured bags.

Zip lock bags – For your notebook, camera, maps, phone.

Note pad and Pencil (Or Iphone/ Ipad – For jotting down your memoirs. The best ideas are hatched in the hills.

Reading material – there is also a book exchange at Café Andino, so you can swap in between trips if you can’t swap with your camp mates.

Hand Sanitizer and personal toiletries

Pee bottle – This can be your Nalgene. The hardened mountain criminals have no problems cleaning them with boiling water, ready for oral use again. It makes a good story too. iPads, iPods or MP3 players – also part of expedition camp life

Plugs, solar panels and adapters – make sure you have all your relevant charging equipment. We can liaise to make sure there are no double ups.

PERSONAL MEDICATIONS and First Aid:

Blister Kit (compulsory) – Tape AND Moleskin or Second Skin or Compede)

Diclofenac – Anti Inflammatory Antibiotics – Talk to your Doctor about general anti-biotic options.

Betadine or Alcohol swabs

Sun Cream – No tanning cream. Preferably 50+ SPF

Lip Balm – Also with SPF. Factor 15 is easily available, but factor 50 exists. Easier to find in Europe.

Chemical Hand warmers – For summit day 2x2

Simple Pain relief – Aspirin, Panadol

Insect repellant

Stomach – Metoclopramide & Gastro soothe, Immodium or Lomotil

Rehydration – Electrolytes / Gastrolyte / Gatorade (powder) and Throat Lozenges

I will carry a general first aid kit, plus a more advanced altitude medicine kit.

HIGH ALTITUDE MEDICINE:

Diamox, Dexamthason and Nifedipene are specialist drugs. We will be carrying a group first aid kit with these high altitude medicines. You are required to complete a medical questionnaire with the usual questions about fitness, but also to consult with your Doctor that you and your current health are fit to travel to altitude. This will be part of your liability waiver.

Discuss the use and prescription of these medicines with your doctor when you get your medical. There is no substitute for proper acclimatization, but just as important is the knowledge that life saving drugs is on hand in an emergency. It’s important that you get clearance from your doctor to take these in an emergency, and that they don’t conflict with your current medication or health. It’s better to have your own prescription and not need it.

OTHER NOTES:

Cash and cards - You are responsible for meals and general expenses whilst in Lima and Huaraz that are not included in the itinerary. Approximately $50 USD per day that you are scheduled to be in town should be more than adequate. Money exchange to local currency (Peruvian Sol) is possible at the airport or in Huaraz. ATM’s accept EFTPOS and credit cards. If you bring USD cash make sure they are new bills. The money exchanges are very strict and won’t accept even the slightest wear or tear in your notes.

Communications - Cell phones work locally once you are in view of the valley. Please check with your provider to see if roaming works. Phones can be rented at the airport (air side) before leaving the immigration area. With the advent of WiFi nearly everywhere I haven’t needed a cell phone for around town. I will be carrying a Satellite phone for emergency use and daily scheduled comms by text. Occasional calls (subject to battery power) are possible for $10USD per minute. I will also be carrying a PLB. If you own one of these I recommend bringing it.

Language - Know how to count in Spanish/ Castellano. Get your phrase book out. The locals are really appreciative of any attempts to communicate. Uno, dos, tres, quatro, muchas gracias, Buenas dias, Hola, Mucho gusto, etc

Insurance is compulsory

Skills Refresher – Peru is usually quite dry in the prime climbing period (June-August) and you will be walking on hard glacial ice. The are wide open and unknown crevasses are rare. Training in New Zealand in March onwards will provide similar conditions. Talk to me about a pre-trip warm up/ gear test.

Training – Proper conditioning will go a long way to making your trip more comfortable and enjoyable. Stamina and cardiovascular fitness are most important. Keep up your pack hauling, biking and running. No one discipline will replace putting all your mountain gear on and going , so combine all of those to keep on top of it. Contact me for more specific guidelines.

Food – I believe that your fuel will help your overall strength and stamina too. There is a great supply of local fresh vegetables and fruit as well as the usual dried goods that we will purchase to make enjoyable mountain meals. We will have a camp cook who will provide healthy mountain meals. We will avoid dehydrated and preserved foods as much as possible. There are plenty of western snack foods available too which are all included in your costs, but if you have a particular fondness for a certain muesli bar or isotonic electrolyte powder, you are welcome to bring your own supply. Please advise me if you have any special dietary requirements including any food requests. I aim to do everything possible to fuel you up on goodness.

The objective is to meet in Huaraz at 3pm on Day 1 for a briefing, dinner and overnight stay at a Hotel. Please send me your travel itinerary as soon as you book it.

Medical Questionnaires must be completed in the presence of your doctor. A separate form will be provided.

Health and Vaccinations – It is important to take care with untreated water, and raw fruit and vegetables cleaned or mixed with untreated water. This is probably the most common source of gastro-intestinal problems. As clean as some establishments may seem, the best defense is to steer clear of these sorts of foods. All water at camp will be boiled for at least 3 minutes and allowed to cool. Bottled water is available everywhere in town. You may bring a Steri-Pen or Micro-Pur tablets for extra peace of mind but this isn’t absolutely necessary.

Check the following travel advisory for Peru and consider a course of vaccinations well in advance. http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/peru.htm

Click these links to view video footage of previous Expeditions, and subscribe to my channel so you know as soon as I upload your featured video…. https://youtu.be/os8TKasI4es 2014 https://youtu.be/DT5-U4hzcrU 2013

Travel in and around Huaraz: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/peru/huaraz-and-the-cordilleras/huaraz