AND REVEALHOW THISVIBRANTCITYSTOLE THEIRHEARTS CHRIS ANDETTYLEADUSOFFBANGKOK’S TOURIST TRAIL MY CITY*

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PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS SCHALKX That would be Ban Krachao. Only 15 minutes from from minutes 15 Only Krachao. Ban be would That Where’s your favourite outdoor space? avisit. worth well and space green truly only Bangkok’s away, ride aboat is Krachao, -Ban ’burbs the to head to you’ll have For experience, ajungle between. far and few are of green world, patches so the in ratios to-people parks- smallest one of the has Bangkok nature?! What What’s thenature like? up for. waking worth definitely is markets on its buzz morning early city, but a24/7 the is Bangkok rewarding. truly are atdawn about out we’re and occasions rare the people, morning terrible being of us both Despite What timeofday doyou most enjoy? season’ so the occasional downpour be expected. can ‘rainy end of ’s the is However,before. this months the than lower temperatures somewhat sees but October hot year-round, swelteringly is Bangkok What isitlike inOctober? home. from akilometre than less -sometimes hangouts cool and neighbourhoods new discovering still we’re here, years four more than development. After in always is excitement and and energy oozes The city speakeasy. ahidden in sipping $20 cocktails night the end pavement and soup on the a$1 noodle with day the we start example, an As fully. grasp ever to impossible is that chaos enchanting an old in collide and Here, new boring. gets never Bangkok of contrasts, full acity As Tell uswhat makes your cityunique home. his Bangkok made and one-way ticket a bought possessions, his he sold all Netherlands, the home in in back studies his finishing city. After the and Etty love with in 2014 fell in and Asia around eight-month trip on an while Bangkok in Etty met Chris here. school international atan teacher arts an became she graduating After 2013. in Bangkok in University atthe degree do her to master’s Taipei from she moved New York in Shanghai and stints after and Taiwan, Taichung, in raised and born was Etty How longhave you lived inthecity? relax and enjoy some armchair travel. city closer to you, but for now just sit back, one day or to rediscover the of charms a so special. You may feel inspired to visit a personal tour and tell what us makes it clearly in love with their city, to take on us there. Every month, we someone, ask of acity than through the people who live * There’s no better way to get to the heart » 3 2 5 ESCAPE above Pepsi adverts Pepsi above photography sits historical Thai fruit: durian. corner. every virtually on appear still year, last died who Adulyadej,Bhumibol town). (old Luang Sanam in streets the . 4 5 2 3 1

East meets West: The world’s smelliest Portraits of King Golden buddhas line in seller fruit A jolly

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MY CITY MY 63 4 ESCAPE | MY CITY

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“Bangkok is synonymous with street food and every through the city, not to be confused with the big !) is buzzing with local life and provides a visitor should give in to a sidewalk feast” fantastic peek inside the ‘real’ Bangkok.

What’s the shopping like? Bangkok’s CBD, it feels a world away from the concrete We like to visit upscale malls like EmQuartier and jungle. On rare days when the heat is manageable, we Central Embassy, which have a mix of contemporary love hopping on the tiny ferry at Wat Khlong Toey to designers and international boutique brands. But we cross the river to Bangkok’s ‘green lung’. Here, we rent also love picking up homewares at one of the many bicycles for about 100 THB/day (about £2.25) and markets or local mom and pop shops. explore the pathways that lead through locals’ backyards, banana plantations and dense jungle forest, Where do you like to escape to? stopping for a cha yen (iced milk tea) or two along the When we want a break from the city we go to nearby way. Alternatively, there is always Lumpini Park, Khao Yai National Park. Only three hours from Bangkok Bangkok’s answer to NYC’s Central Park – this green (close by Thai standards!), you’ll find a jungle packed space in the centre of town is always buzzing with life. with boutique resorts, restaurants and lush greenery.

Tell us about the light and colours What has been your best discovery? Bangkok’s streets can go from all-white minimalistic to The quaint little area called Talad Noi, just minutes a riot of colour within a kilometre. On good days, dawn from Chinatown is not on everyone’s radar yet. Expect and dusk see candy-coloured skies ranging from pastel a mix of hard-working locals, cool coffee shops and 5 pink to warm orange. fabulous street art scattered around its winding alleys. 2 What about the people who live there? What do you miss most if you’ve been away? It’s the diverse mix of people calling Bangkok home The energy we found in Bangkok is something we’ve yet that makes the city so interesting. Hard-working but to discover anywhere else. And while we’re on the road incredibly friendly Thai labourers, Thai-Chinese shop exploring new places almost every month, this energy owners and a huge community of Japanese expats, keeps us longing for Bangkok. every group has left its mark on the city, making it a welcoming place for people from all walks of life. What would surprise a newcomer? Postcards show Bangkok as a city of golden pagodas, Where do you gather with friends? floating markets and stalls on crumbling sidewalks. We love hanging out in small community malls like The But Bangkok is also a hyper-modern Asian metropolis, Commons or 72 Courtyard, both in Thonglor, where home to stunning contemporary architecture, world- multiple cool bars, restaurants and cafés merge in a sort class cuisine and a sophisticated art scene – not far off of upscale foodcourt. Paired with the occasional live what you’ll find in Singapore and Hong Kong. band or DJ, these spots make for a great night out. 1 Colourful temples What would you change about the city? all around Chinatown. Where are the best places to eat Thai food? Bangkok is changing too fast. Blocks of gorgeous 2 Bangkok’s best Bangkok is synonymous with street food, and every Chinatown shophouses have to make way for shiny mango sticky rice: Mae Varee. visitor should give in to a sidewalk feast. You’ll find office buildings, and street food areas are being swept 3 Two wheels good, carts dishing up noodle soups and curries on sidewalks up for high-rise condominiums. I’d like to hold on to the four wheels bad: Ban all over town, but Yaowarat (Chinatown) and Sam charming ‘old’ Bangkok just a little longer. Krachao bike rides. 4 The Khlong boat – Phraeng (in the Old Town) are some of our favourites. a great way to get Recent years have also seen the arrival of more and Where would you recommend somebody to stay? around town. more ‘upscale’ eateries going back to traditionally Thai Don’t make the mistake of many first-timers: stay 5 Chinese tea cups are hard to resist at roots. For authentic flavours, with or without a modern away from Khao San Road – this part of town is as 20 THB a throw. twist, try some of our favourite hip Thai restaurants like un-authentic as it gets. Base yourself in one of the quirky 6 Old and new collide Baan Padthai, 80/20 and The Local Canteen. boutique hotels in the Old Town, or opt for a stay nearby in Soi Nana a BTS station along the Sukhumvit line, from where What’s your favourite way to get about? you’ll have easy access to the rest of the city. Bangkok’s traffic can be hellish, but there are plenty of options to get from A to B by public transport. The BTS What keeps you in Bangkok and is there anywhere (the ) and MRT (the underground metro) are else you’d like to live? convenient, but we love using the Khlong boat to get Bangkok has stolen our hearts and we see ourselves 3 a peek at local life. Running almost parallel with based here for at least another decade. If we had to 6 , the Khlong (the canal running move, we’d probably choose Tokyo as our next stop. »

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ETTY LIU & CHRIS SCHALKX are the couple behind ricepotato.co, an urban guide to Bangkok and beyond. Follow them on Instagram: @ettyliu and @chrsschlkx

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CHRIS AND ETTY’S PERSONAL TOUR

Favourite café/bar and vintage clothing: this market stay for the hip cocktail bars. BA HAO in the Ratchada area is a treasure Bangkok’s most sophisticated trove for avid shoppers. Favourite view Chinatown hangout. Decked RIVER VIBE BAR & out with old-school Chinese Favourite shop RESTAURANT paraphernalia and neon lights. THAI HOME INDUSTRIES Perched atop the unassuming ba-hao.com Thai handicrafts done right. Set River View guest house, deep in a traditional Thai building, the inside Chinatown’s small alleys, Favourite restaurant shop is a sight in itself. River Vibe comes with a million- GEDHAWA 35 Charoen Krung Soi 40, dollar view over the Chao Phraya Despite the many world-class Bangrak river without the price tag you’ll 2 restaurants in Bangkok, it’s the find at neighbouring rooftop bars. quirky Gedhawa Restaurant that Favourite Gallery stole our hearts. Amazing staff, CITYCITY GALLERY Favourite way to 1 A typical handwritten menus, and the best This sleek-looking gallery just off spend an hour Chinatown scene. Northern Thai food in the city. Sathorn Road showcases work WATPO THAI MASSAGE 2 Yaowarat Road - Chinatown’s 24 Sukhumvit 35 Rd, Wattana, by young Thai talent in all shapes You can’t leave Bangkok without beating heart. Bangkok and forms. bangkokcitycity.com having a Thai massage at least 3 Colonial chic: once. Don’t risk an awkward The Cabochon Hotel is in a quiet alley in the city Favourite market Place to see by night experience (you know…) and centre – a great base TALAD ROT FAI YAOWARAT only choose shops that have from which to explore. Fantastic Thai food, quirky knick- A riot of scents, flavours and been recommended extensively, 4 Chinese paraphernalia knacks and a huge collection of neon lights at the buzzing heart like this one. at Ba Hao café Thai and international antiques of Chinatown. Come for the food, watpomassage.com

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