US 20090238848A1 (19) United States (12) Patent Application Publication (10) Pub. No.: US 2009/0238848A1 Andre et al. (43) Pub. Date: Sep. 24, 2009

(54) USE OF AN EXTRACT OF THE ORCHID (30) Foreign Application Priority Data COERULEAASA SKN HYDRATING AGENT Mar. 3, 2008 (FR)...... O851.382 Publication Classification (75) Inventors: Patrice Andre, Neuville AuX Bois (51) Int. Cl. (FR); Jean-Christophe 46R 8/97 (2006.01) Archambault, Meung S/Loire A636/898 (2006.01) E. Isabelle Renimel, Trainou (52) U.S. Cl...... 424/401; 424/725; 424/779 (57) ABSTRACT Correspondence Address: The present invention relates to the use, in a cosmetic com KEOWN & ZUCCHERO, LLP position, of an extract of at least one part of an orchid of the 500 WEST CUMMINGS PARK, SUITE 1200 species Vanda coerulea, as an agent for maintaining or restor WOBURN, MA 01801 (US) ing the hydration state of the skin, said composition also containing a cosmetically acceptable excipient. (73) Assignee: LVMH RECHERCHE This skin hydrating effect is obtained in particular by stimu lating the expression of aquaporin 3 and of the LEKTI pro (21) Appl. No.: 12/396,554 tein. The invention also relates to a cosmetic skincare method for (22) Filed: Mar. 3, 2009 the purpose of improving the hydration state of said skin. Patent Application Publication Sep. 24, 2009 Sheet 1 of 2 US 2009/0238848 A1

DiLB Objetrf 40 FIG.2 Patent Application Publication Sep. 24, 2009 Sheet 2 of 2 US 2009/0238848A1

US 2009/0238848 A1 Sep. 24, 2009

USE OF AN EXTRACT OF THE ORCHID known (SOUGRAT et al., Molecular Biology of the Cell: VANDA COERULEAASA SKN HYDRATING November 1998; Vol. 9, page 499a). AGENT 0011. The LEKTI protein (lympho-epithelial Kazal type related inhibitor) is a protease inhibitor and is expressed in the RELATED APPLICATIONS granular layer of the epidermis located under the horny layer. Mutations in the SPINK5 gene, encoding this protein, result 0001. This application claims priority to French Patent in a complete absence of the LEKTI protein in affected indi Application No. 0851382, filed on Mar. 3, 2008, the contents viduals, which leads to extreme disturbances of the cutaneous of which are incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. barrier, in particular at the level of the desmosomes. 0012. Desmosomes enable mechanical attachment of the TECHNICAL FIELD cells to one another, reinforcing the mechanical Solidity of the 0002. The invention relates to a novel use of an extract of sealing systems, and are binding sites for keratins between orchids of the species Vanda coerulea as a skin hydrating two cells (keratinocytes or corneocytes). They thus play an agent. essential role in the cohesion between the cellular compart ments which constitute the dermis and the epidermis and in the prevention of intercellular water evaporation, a phenom BACKGROUND enon responsible for dryness of the skin. 0003 Orchids () are the subject of numerous 0013. In the absence of LEKTI production (in the case of research studies in the medicament or cosmetics field, aimed patients suffering from Netherton's syndrome), a high degree at identifying new compounds having advantageous proper of fragility of the skin is observed, resulting in severe dehy ties. Orchids of the Vanda genus are epiphytic or epilithic dration. orchids of the tropical forest of Asia and of Australia. They are 0014. It has been shown that the horny layer of the skin of monopodial orchids of low-altitude forests with a high atmo knock-out mice (which do not possess the SPINK5 gene) spheric humidity. The genus comprises about fifty species detaches from the rest of the epidermis due to degradation of with many hybrids. To date, research on of the Vanda the desmosomes, which bind the horny layer to the granular genus is based on the knowledge and uses of these plants by layer. This alteration is secondary to the hyperactivity of local populations. epidermal proteases which, in the absence of inhibition by 0004. Manandhar et al. (Fitoterapia, 1994, 65 (1), 7-13) LEKTI, degrade one of the key components of desmosomes, have described the use of Vanda Cristata in the Kaski district Desmoglein 1. LEKTI therefore plays a major role in regu of , for treating cuts and wounds using a paste based on lating the process of descquamation of the epidermis by con the . trolling the degradation of these attachment structures. 0005 Sigh et al. have studied the traditional phytotherapy 0015 Stimulating AQP3 and of LEKTI may make it pos with medicinal plants used by the Tharu tribe of the Nainital sible both to limit intercellular water evaporation and also to district in the Uttar Pradesh region in (Int. J. Pharma improve water transport within the epidermis. Thus there is a cogn., 1994 32 1, 51-58). These authors have described the need for a simple, relatively inexpensive cosmetic agent use of a paste based on Vanda tessallata (synonym: Vanda capable of maintaining or reinforcing skin hydration. roxburghii) obtained from the whole plant, and applied with salt to a bone fracture area. The publication also discloses the SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION use of an aqueous extract of this same plant, administered 0016. The principal objective of the invention is to provide orally for the same purpose. a novel cosmetic agent, capable of maintaining or reinforcing 0006 Compositions intended for skin care, containing an skin hydration. The present invention also relates to a cos extract of the plant Vanda roxburghii, have been described in metic care method for hydrating the skin. Japanese Patent Application JP2006-257056, said extract 0017. According to a first aspect, the invention relates to being used in this composition as an oestrogenic agent for the the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an extract of at least one treatment of skin aging. part of an orchid of the species Vanda coerulea, as an agent for 0007 Chawla et al. (Ind. J. Pharm. Sci., 1992, 54 (4), maintaining or restoring the hydration state of the skin, said 159-61) have described the anti-inflammatory properties of composition also containing a cosmetically acceptable an organic solvent-based extract obtained from Vanda rox excipient. burghii roots. 0018. According to a second aspect, the invention relates 0008 Bulpitt (“The uses and misuses of orchids in medi to a cosmetic skincare method for maintaining or restoring cine”, QJM, 2005, 98 (9), 625-31) indicates that the orchid the hydration state of the skin, characterized in that it com Vanda coerulea appears to be part of the Indian pharmaco prises the application, to the part of the skin of the face or of poeia. the body that is concerned, of an effective amount of an 0009 Moreover, an extract of the whole plant of Vanda extract of an orchid of the species Vanda coerulea or of a coerulea, sold under the name Biogreen Orchidée Bleue composition which is the subject of the first aspect. (Biogreen Blue Orchid) by Greentech SA, is also known. This extract is used as an antioxidant in cosmetic compositions. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES 0010 Aquaporins or water channels are transmembrane protein systems that transport water and Small molecules in (0019 FIGS. 1 to 4 are given with reference to Example 2 Solution, Such as glycerol and urea, for example. The presence and show histological sections observed by microscopy. They of type 3 aquaporins (AQP3) in the human epidermis, more give the result of an immunolabelling of specifically in the plasma membrane of the keratinocytes of 0020 aquaporin 3: human skin, and also the important role that these AQP-3s 0021 FIG. 1 at DO play in water transport within the human epidermis, are 0022 FIG. 2 at D6 US 2009/0238848 A1 Sep. 24, 2009

0023 LEKTI: 0038 Prior to the extraction step itself, the plant material 0024 FIG.3 at DO may have been dried and/or ground. 0025 FIG. 4 at D6 0039. According to one preferred embodiment of the extraction, the plant material is in the dry and ground State. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED 0040. The extraction may also optionally comprise at least EMBODIMENTS one additional step constituted of a treatment of the extract 0026. It has now been discovered, completely unexpect aimed at partially or completely decolouring it, or in purify edly by the inventors of the present invention that extracts of ing it. orchids of the species Vanda coerulea have new and remark 0041. This decolouring step may, for example, comprise a able skin hydrating properties which make their use particu treatment of the extract with a solution of a polar solvent or of larly advantageous in cosmetic compositions for providing a mixture of polar solvents, preferably a treatment with a care where it is sought to maintain or to promote hydration of solution of ethanol/water in a ratio of 70/30 V/V, in the pres the skin. ence of active carbon particles. 0027. In particular, these extracts of Vanda coerulea pro 0042. The decolouring may also comprise a treatment of tect the skin against evaporation and provide a considerable the extract with an apolar solvent, for example a C-C, hydrating effect by in particular improving water transport alkane, or alternatively with CO in the supercritical state. within the epidermis. It is this discovery which forms the 0043. The extraction may be completed with a step of basis of the present invention and explains the notable hydrat partial or complete elimination of the extraction solvents. ing activities of the extracts of Vanda coerulea, which act 0044. In the first case, the extract is generally concentrated simultaneously on two mechanisms responsible for correct until an aqueous concentrate devoid of significant amounts of hydration of the skin. In fact, the inventors have shown that organic Solvents is obtained; in the second case, a dry residue the extract of Vanda coerulea increases the expression of two is obtained. biological markers involved in the mechanisms of skin hydra 0045 Alternatively, the product of the extraction step may tion, aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and the LEKTI protein (lympho be lyophilized or atomized so as to be in the form of a powder. epithelial Kazal type related inhibitor). 0046. The powder may be used as it is in a cosmetic or 0028. The extract obtained from orchids of the species dermatological composition or may be redispersed in a sol Vanda coerulea can thus be used as an active agent in a vent or a mixture of solvents. cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically 0047. In general, the product of the extraction step may be acceptable excipient, and intended to be applied to at least one dissolved or dispersed in a solvent or a mixture of solvents, so part of the skin of the face or of the body, so as to obtain an as to used as an active agent in the cosmetic compositions effect of maintaining or reinforcing skin hydration. covered according to the invention. 0029. The first subject of the present invention is thus the 0048. The solvent or the mixture of solvents in which the use, as a skin hydrating agent, of an extract obtained from a extract is dissolved or dispersed may be identical to or differ plant material formed from orchids of the species Vanda ent from that having served for the extraction. coerulea. 0049. The extract may also be adsorbed onto a support 0030 The plant material used may be the whole plant or a advantageously chosen from porous or nonporous nylon part of the plant, such as the leaves, the stem, the flowers or the powders, and micas, or any lamellar mineral Substance. rOOtS. 0050. In this case, the extract used is preferably an aque 0031. The extract is preferably obtained from the stems OuS eXtract. and/or the roots and/or the leaves of the orchid, preferably the 0051. The cosmetic composition comprises an effective StemS. amount of extract for obtaining the desired effect. 0032. The extract is prepared by various extraction meth 0.052 The composition thus preferably comprises from ods known to those skilled in the art. 0.001% to 5%, preferably from 0.01% to 1%, by dry weight of 0033. However, the extraction is preferably carried out by eXtract. bringing the selected plant material into contact with a polar 0053. The tests carried out by the inventors have shown Solvent or a mixture of polar solvents. that the properties of the extract can also be obtained or 0034 Prior to this step of bringing at least one part of the improved in cosmetic or dermatological compositions in plant into contact with at least one polar solvent, this plant which the extract is combined with other active agents having part may be optionally dried and/or ground. cosmetic effects similar and/or complementary to that of the 0035. As polar solvent or mixture of polar solvents that extract of Vanda coerulea. can be used for the extraction step, a solvent or a mixture of 0054 Thus, the extract can be combined with one or more Solvents chosen from water, a C-C alcohol, for example molecules and/or one or more plant extracts having hydrating ethanol, and a C to Ce glycol preferably chosen from glyc properties, such as glycols, in particular glycerol, or natural erol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol, and mixtures polyols, natural or synthetic ceramides, urea, hyaluronic acid, thereof, will advantageously be chosen. or else an extract of Ajuga turkestanica. 0036. According to one preferred embodiment of the 0055. The extract may also be advantageously combined, invention, the extraction is carried out using an aqueous in cosmetic compositions, with at least one extract of at least alcoholic mixture, in particular a mixture of water and etha one other plant belonging to the orchid family (Orchidaceae). nol, preferably a mixture of water and ethanol comprising This additional extract of another plant belonging to the about 90% of water and 10% of ethanol, by volume. orchid family may in particular be an extract of at least one 0037 According to another variant of the invention, the orchid of the Vanda genus. extraction may also be carried out by a process using a polar 0056. The compositions covered by the invention may Solvent in the Subcritical state, said solvent being advanta comprise, at the same time, an extract of at least one part of the geously water in the Subcritical state. Vanda coerulea plant combined with at least one extract of at US 2009/0238848 A1 Sep. 24, 2009

least one part of another orchid of the Vanda genus as defined 0073 10 g of ground plant material are introduced into a above, and, optionally, at least one other extract of another 250 ml round-bottomed flask, into which 150 ml of an etha plant belonging to the orchid family. nol/water mixture (90/10 V/v) are introduced. 0057. In addition to the extract defined above, the cos 0074 The round-bottomed flask surmounted with a bulb metic composition comprises at least one cosmetically or condenser with magnetic stirring is heated in a thermostated dermatologically acceptable excipient which can be chosen bath, to the reflux of the solvent. from pigments, dyes, polymers, Surfactants, rheology agents, 0075. The reflux is maintained for 30 minutes with stir fragrances, electrolytes, pH modifiers, antioxidants and pre ring. servatives, and mixtures thereof. 0076 Once the heating has been stopped, the round-bot 0058. The cosmetic composition may, for example, be a tomed flask is left to cool to ambient temperature outside the serum, a lotion, a cream or elsea hydrogel, preferably a mask, bath. or may be in the form of a stick, or else a patch. 0077. The mixture is then vacuum-filtered through a 0059. The extracts and the compositions have an effect Büchner funnel with a Whatman 70 um GF/F filter and a tared that is particularly desired for maintaining or reinforcing the flask: filtrate 1 is obtained. hydration state of the skin, when said extract or said compo 0078. The cake is washed on the Büchner funnel with 50 sition is applied to the skin of the face or of the body. ml of the extraction solvent: filtrate 2 is obtained. 0060. The present invention relates, as disclosed above, to the use of the extracts as defined above as a cosmetic agent for (0079. The 2 filtrates are combined and weighed. maintaining or reinforcing the hydration state of the skin. 0080. The filtrate thus obtained is introduced into a pre 0061. As clearly emerges from the examples hereinafter, tared round-bottomed flask, and then concentrated to dryness the applicant has demonstrated the advantage of the extracts on a rotary evaporator in a bath of water placed at a maximum of the plant Vanda coerulea for improving the activities listed temperature of 50° C. below: I0081. The dry residue thus obtained is quantified in order 0062 stimulation of AQP3 expression, to determine the extraction yield by mass, expressed rela 0063 stimulation of LEKTI protein expression. tively to the mass of dry plant introduced. 0064. A Sub1ectsubj Off the 1nVent1Oni ion 1Sis alsoal a COSmet1C care I0082. The extraction yield (expressed as mass of dry method using the extract defined above or a cosmetic com extract obtained per 100g of starting plant material in the dry position as defined above comprising an effective amount of ground state) is 8.9. said extract, for obtaining an effect of preventing or slowing I0083 b) Preparation of an Extract of Roots down the appearance of the signs of dryness of the skin. I0084. The procedure is carried out according to the same 0065 Said cosmetic care method comprises the applica protocol in order to prepare an extract of Vanda coerulea roots tion, to at least one area, of the skin of the face or of the body (extract No. 2). that is concerned, of a composition as described above and I0085. These two extracts will be used in the examples comprising an extract as defined above. which follow, either separately or as a mixture, and combined 0066. In the examples, all the percentages are given by in various proportions. weight, the temperature is in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. Example 2 0067. In addition to the extract of the species Vanda coer ulea, the composition may comprise one or more other plant Tests for Activity of Extracts of Vanda coerulea extracts, obtained from whole plants or from parts of plants. I0086. The doses for using the extracts are predetermined 0068. These plants may be either orchids, in particular of by means of the XTT test (reagent: tetrazolium salt) on a cell the Vanda genus, or plants of another family, known to have culture of two cell lines, HaCaT cells (line of keratinocytes properties similar or complementary to those demonstrated immortalized in vitro) and normal human fibroblasts (NHF). for orchids of the species Vanda coerulea. 0069 Plants of which the extracts are known to slow down Glossary of the Histological Terms Used or prevent the appearance of the signs of dryness of the skin may in particular be chosen. I0087 Spongiose: intercellular oedema without breaking 0070. Other objectives, characteristics and advantages of of desmosome bonds. the invention will become clearly apparent in the light of the I0088 Pycnotic nuclei: nuclei in a state of nuclear degen explanatory description which follows, given with reference eration leading to cellular necrosis. to examples of preparation of extracts and of tests demon I0089 Cellular oedema: Swelling of the cell. strating the properties of the extracts and to an example of a 0090 Parakeratosis: keratinization in the granular layer, cosmetic composition using Such extracts, given simply by the last living epidermal layer. way of illustration and which could not therefore in any way 0091. Materials and Methods limit the scope of the invention. 0092. The dry extract obtained according to Example 1, from Vanda coerulea stems, is dissolved in DMSO at a con EXAMPLES centration of 1.5% by weight of dry extract. Example 1 Preparation of Biopsies Preparation of an Extract of Vanda coerulea Stems 0093 15 explants with a diameter of approximately 10 (0071) a) Preparation of an Extract of Stems mm are prepared from an abdominal plasty from a 40-year 0072 The plant material formed from Vanda coerulea old woman. They are kept alive in BEM specific medium stems, in the dry state, is ground extemporaneously. (BIO-EC Explant Medium). US 2009/0238848 A1 Sep. 24, 2009

0094. The explants are divided up into 2 batches of 6 at its base. The epidermis shows 4 to 5 cell strata with kera explants plus 3 explants at T0, divided up in the following tinocytes exhibiting good morphology. The outline of the way: dermal-epidermal junction is sharp. The papillary dermis 0095 6 explants for the control (formulation devoid of shows quite thick collagen fibres forming a more or less dense active agent), network. It is well cellularized. 0096 6 explants having the same control formulation, but 0119. At D6: itself containing 5% by weight of the extract of Vanda coer I0120. On the Untreated Explants: ulea, i.e. a final concentration of 0.075% by weight of dry I0121 The stratum corneum is moderately thick, very eXtract. moderately laminated and moderately keratinized at the Sur 0097. The products are applied topically at a dose of 2 mg face. Parakeratosis is very moderate. The epidermis shows 4 per explant and spread with a small spatula. to 5 cell strata with keratinocytes exhibiting good morphol 0098. The applications are carried out at D0, D1, D2, D4, ogy. The outline of the dermal-epidermal junction is sharp. D6 and D8. The papillary dermis shows quite thick collagen fibres form 0099 Samples and Histologies ing a more or less dense network. It is well cellularized. 0100 Samples I0122. On the Explants Treated with the Formulation Con 0101 Samples of the explants are taken for histology at taining the Extract of Vanda coerulea. times D0, D6 and D10. I0123. The stratum corneum is moderately thick, moder 0102 Samples are taken from 3 explants of the T0 batch, ately laminated, and slightly keratinized at the Surface. Par at D0, and samples are taken from 3 explants of each batch at akeratosis is moderate. The epidermis shows 5 to 6 cell strata D6 and D10. with keratinocytes exhibiting good morphology. Spongiosis 0103) Each explant is immediately cut into two. One half is weak in the basal position of the epidermis. The outline of is fixed in formol buffered at a pH of 7.5 with a phosphate the dermal-epidermal junction is sharp. The papillary dermis buffer solution, and the other half is frozen at -80° C. shows thick collagen fibres forming a dense network. It is 0104. Histology well cellularized. 0105. After fixing for 24 hours in the buffered formol, the samples are dehydrated and impregnated with paraffin using 0.124. At D10: a Leica 1020 automated dehydration device. They are placed (0.125. On the Untreated Explants: in blocks using a Leica EG 1160 coating station. 5 um sec 0.126 The stratum corneum is quite thick, quite well lami tions are cut on a Leica RM 2125 Minot microtome and stuck nated and moderately keratinized at the Surface. Parakeratosis onto Superfrost silanized histological glass slides. is weak. The epidermis shows 4 to 5 cell strata with kerati 0106 The frozen samples are cut at 7 um in a Leica CM nocytes exhibiting good morphology. The outline of the der 3050 cryostat. The sections are stuck onto silanized histologi mal-epidermal junction is very sharp. The papillary dermis cal glass slides for immunolabelling. shows quite thick collagen fibres forming a network that is not 0107 The microscopic observations are carried out by very dense. It is well cellularized. optical microscopy, using a Leica type DMLB microscope, I0127. On the Explants Treated with the Formulation Con with the x40 objective. The images are taken with a Sony taining the Extract of Vanda coerulea. DXC390P3CCD camera and stored using the Leica IM1000 I0128. The stratum corneum is quite thick, quite well lami data archiving Software. nated, and moderately keratinized at the Surface. Parakerato 0108 General Morphology sis is strong. The epidermis shows 5 to 6 cell strata with 0109 The general morphology is observed on sections keratinocytes exhibiting a very average morphology. Many embedded in a paraffin gel and stained with Masson keratinocytes are slightly oedematous in the prickle cell lay trichrome, Goldner variant. ers, with cells containing pycnotic nuclei and perinuclear 0110. Immunolabelling oedema in the upper prickle cell layers. The outline of the 0111 Aquaporin 3 dermal-epidermal junction is sharp. The papillary dermis 0112. The AQP3 is labelled with a polyclonal anti-AQP3 shows thick collagen fibres forming a dense network. It is from Chemicon, refAB 3276, on a rabbit. It is carried out with well cellularized. a Vectastain Universal Vector biotin/streptavidin amplifying I0129 Aquaporin 3 Immunolabelling system and revealed in 3.3-diaminobenzidine (DAB), a sub 0.130 No labelling is observed on the sections on which strate molecule for peroxidase. The nuclei are counterstained the primary or secondary antibody was replaced with PBS. with Masson's hemalun. 0131. At D0: 0113 LEKTI (0132). On the Untreated Explants (see FIG. 1): 0114 LEKTI is labelled with anti-LEKTI, a monoclonal I0133. The labelling is sharp, regular, and clearly on the antibody, clone 1C11G6, Santa Cruz ref SC-32330, on for membrane and pericellular. It is sharp and regular in the upper mol-fixed, paraffin-embedded sections, with a biotin/strepta epidermal layers, and is not observed in the final cell Stratum. vidin amplifying system, and revealed with fluorescein It is quite sharp laterally in the basal layer. isothiocyanate (FITC). The nuclei are counterstained with 0134. At D6: propidium iodide. I0135. On the Explants Treated with the Formulation Con RESULTS taining the Extract of Vanda coerulea (see FIG. 2): 0.136 The labelling is sharp, regular, and clearly on the 0115 General Morphology membrane and pericellular. It is sharp and quite regular in the 0116. At D0: upper epidermal layers, and is not observed in the final cell 0117. On the Untreated Explants: stratum. It is very sharp all along the basal layer of the epi 0118. The stratum corneum is not very thick, is very dermis, at the dermal-epidermal junction, a sign of strong slightly laminated, and is fully keratinized at the Surface and AQP3 expression activity in the deep layers of the epidermis. US 2009/0238848 A1 Sep. 24, 2009

0137 LEKTI Immunolabelling: 0138 No labelling is observed on the sections on which -continued the primary or secondary antibody was replaced with PBS. 0139. At D0: Phase B 0140. On the Untreated Explants (see FIG. 3): Dicaprylyl carbonate 1.5% 0141. The labelling is weak, quite regular, and on the Cetyl alcohol 190 membrane on 4 to 5 cell Strata in the granular layer at the base Stearyl alcohol 190 of the stratum corneum. It is slightly observed on 2 to 3 cell Dimethicone 190 strata in the stratum corneum. It is not observed in the under lying epidermal layers. 0142. At D6: 0143. On the Explants Treated with the Formulation Con taining the Extract of Vanda coerulea (see FIG. 4): Phase C 0144. The labelling is quite sharp, quite regular, and Sodium hydroxide O.04% clearly cytoplasmic on 2 to 3 cell strata in the granular layer Water qs 100% at the base of the stratum corneum. It is hardly observed in the stratum corneum. It is slightly observed on 1 cell stratum in the underlying epidermal layers. 0150. The gelling agents of phase Aare dispersed in water and then the mixture is heated at 80-85°C., before solubiliz CONCLUSIONS ing all the other compounds, including the Solution of extract of Vanda coerulea. 0145 The extract of Vanda coerulea makes it possible to 0151. The compounds of phase B are heated at 85°C. so as improve the regulation of epidermal descquamation processes, to form a homogenous phase. by controlling the degradation of these attachment structures 0152 Phase A is emulsified in phase B using an Ystral by increasing the expression of LEKTI, which makes it pos mixer. sible to protect and reinforce the skin barrier, and thus the hydration of the skin. 0153. The oil/water emulsion thus obtained is finally neu 0146 Moreover, the extract has a particular efficacy for tralized with a 0.04% w/w aqueous sodium hydroxide solu regulating water fluxes in the epidermis, through an effect on tion, and then cooled. the regulation and/or the functionality of aquaporins AQP3, 0154 The composition obtained is a moisturizing cream thus enabling better hydration of the basal layers of the epi intended to be applied to the face or a part of the face. dermis.

Example 3 What is claimed: Cosmetic Composition Comprising the Extract of the 1. A method for maintaining or restoring the hydration state Invention of the skin, comprising the application, to a part of the skin of the face or of the body in need thereof, of a cosmetic compo 0147 The extract of orchids used as active agent in the sition containing an effective amount of an extract of an following cosmetic composition is obtained by reproducing orchid of the species Vanda coerulea for maintaining or the method in Example 1. restoring the hydration state of the skin, said composition also 0148. The dry extract is dissolved at 1% w/w in a 60/40 V/v containing a cosmetically acceptable excipient. mixture of glycerol/water. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein said extract is 0149. This solution is used as active agent for preparing an extract of an orchid part selected from the group consisting the cosmetic composition below (% expressed as w/w): of the stem, the roots, the leaves, and mixtures thereof. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein said extract is Phase A an extract of stem. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein said extract is Solution containing 1% of extract of Vanda coerulea O.3% Phenoxyethanol O.S9/o obtained by bringing at least one part of said orchid, option Xanthan gum O.2% ally dried, or ground, or both, into contact with at least one Acrylates/C20-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers O.15% polar solvent. Tetrasodium EDTA O.1% 5. The method according to claim 4, wherein said polar Water qs Solvent is selected from the group consisting of water, C-C, alcohols, and C to Ce glycols, and mixtures thereof. 6. The method according to claim 5, wherein said solventis an aqueous-ethanolic mixture. Phase B 7. The method according to claim 4, wherein said polar solvent is a solvent in the subcritical state. Hydrogenated polyisobutene 4% Squalane 3% 8. The method according to claim 1, wherein said extract Caprylicicapric triglyceride 3% has been subjected to at least one decolouring, or purifying Pentylene glycol 3% step, or both. Glyceryl Stearate 3% PEG-1 OO Stearate 2.5% 9. The method according to claim 1, wherein said compo Beeswax 1.5% sition also contains one or more molecules and/or one or more plant extracts having hydrating properties. US 2009/0238848 A1 Sep. 24, 2009

10. The method according to claim 1, wherein said com 12. The method according to claim 1, wherein said com position is in the form of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a hydro position contains from 0.01% to 1%, by weight, of dry gel, a mask, a stick or a patch. eXtract. 11. The method according to claim 1, wherein said com position contains from 0.001% to 5%, by weight, of dry eXtract.