MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 2 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR Editorial, advertising, administration Founded by Pedro A. Serra Bauzá MBE in Palma in 1962 Switchboard (Telephone) [34] 971 78 84 00 and distribution departments at Palau de la Prensa, Passeig 9A President : Managing Editor : News Desk [34] 971 78 84 10 Editorial [34] 971 78 84 11 07011 , . What’s On [34] 971 78 84 11 Advertising [34] 971 78 84 05 Sales control Carmen Serra Jason Moore Managing director : Deputy Editor : Office Fax [34] 971 45 73 28 Distribution [34] 971 78 84 03 Published by Ediciones Jemma SL Pedro Rullan Humphrey Carter Editorial: [email protected] Printed at our Group print press Administration & Advertising : Office manager: Advertising: [email protected] (Palma, Majorca) Cathy Caliz Morales Christina Buchet Subscription: [email protected] D.L.P.M 2319-1962 Website: www.majorcadailybulletin.com SAINTS & DEMONS of Majorca

Demons are part of the Majorcan fiestas. PHOTO: MDB FILES

mous with the fiesta. Where there is a groups of demons, who have either demon, there is a fiesta!” b The “devotion” taken the grotesque appearance to ex- by Andrew Ede Another writer, Miquel Sbert, said of tremes or who don’t wear masks and the figure of the demon that “it is part of the demon, are essentially fools. Where there is a of our intangible heritage”. The “devo- The La Beata procession in Santa Mar- tion” of the demon, especially among especially among galida in early September features a demon, there is a children, is “a guarantee of its continu- children, is “a group of these foolish demons. They ity, a connection to strengthen and smash earthenware pots on the ground fiesta! promote the practice of other tradi- guarantee of its in front of La Beata (Saint Catalina tional customs”. Thomas) and her companions. In Alcu- osé Juan Luna is the co-author The demon as a character in religious continuity, a dia, a group chases and “kidnaps” chil- of “Palma A-Z” and “100% Mal- celebrations dates back to at least the dren for the January fiestas of Sant An- lorca”. A travel writer and ob- late fourteenth century. For the Cor- connection to toni. J server of Majorcan and Balearic pus Christi procession in Palma in strengthen and Then there are the fire-running gangs culture, he once said that the Majorcan 1380, a demon (or devil) was recorded of demons. Hideous in appearance, people have a “thorough, iconic and as having taken part. That demon was they combine mystery and terror. They deep knowledge” of the dark side. Un- led on a chain by another character - promote the perform the “correfoc” - the verb córrer like other societies which seek to hide Saint Bartholomew the Apostle. is to run, and the noun foc is fire. these darker forces, the Majorcans Over time, the demon became the practice of other They don’t necessarily do much run- openly acknowledge them. In so doing, target for derision and for mirth; he traditional ning. Armed with tridents that spit fire they have a “psychological health, was the “bovo”, the demon as fool. The crackers and emit great sprays of fire, which is not only calm but also gives demon was also incorporated into the customs”. stalking is more their thing. Some wisdom and depth of vision”. folk dance of the cossiers, who bear a gangs have their own spectaculars - He was referring to demon culture, certain similarity to Morris dancers Whether part of a procession or a folk scripted and choreographed shows - which is most clearly expressed at fies- and are known to have existed since dance, the demon remained a solitary played out against the sound of inces- tas. “For me, the demon is synony- the first half of the sixteenth century. figure for centuries. There are now sant drumming. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 3 DEMONS & SAINTS IN MAJORCA b Sant Antoni and are the most widely Sant Joan (John the Baptist) celebrated of all the fiestas. ● Days up to and including June 23 and 24, especially in Cal- The gangs’ names add to June. The feast day for An- via, deya, , Muro, the sense of terror. An ex- thony the Great (also An- Sa Rapita, Sant Joan, , ample is the gang from thony the Abbot and An- Specifíc events- Pama, Nit de Foc , Dimonis Sa thony of Egypt) is the sev- (Night of Fire), june 23. Fil·loxera de l’Infern de enteenth of January. A pa- Dance of Sant Joan Pelós; Sant Binissalem; infern is hell, tron of animals, the 17th is Llorenç, Dance of Joan Pelut, fil·loxera is the phylloxera a day for blessings of ani- June24. insect, which caused the mals. Sant Antoni Eve is

“plague” that devastated something else entirely. ● - Ibiza City vineyards in the final dec- Bonfires and demons are ● Minorca - Ciutadella ade of the nineteenth cen- just two aspects of an eve- tury. ning (and night) that is The demons have become greatly anticipated each aligned with ancient fire year. The fiestas for Sant rituals, for which there are Antoni are probably the pre-Christian associations oldest of all fiestas, they linked to the solstice. In having started in midsummer, fire is sym- in the fourteenth century. bolic of fertility. In winter, Sa Pobla’s parish church the fire symbolises the re- took its name from the birth of the sun. Although saint, and it was Sa Pobla the January fiestas for Sant where his worship first be- Antoni (Saint Anthony the came truly established; the Great) take place almost a cult of Sant Antoni was in- case in Pollensa, but on the they are especially popular lavish of all correfocs. Sev- most vivid image is pro- month after the winter sol- troduced to Majorca and night of the sixteenth de- in Palma and parts of Cal- eral gangs unite for the Nit vided by the cavalcade of stice, they have for centu- the islands by the Catalans mons are let loose to run via. Small fires are made, de Foc, the Night of Fire. horses - the “jaleo”, a spec- ries acknowledged this after the conquests that with fire in places such as and there is the act of puri- Minorca plays a particu- tacle unique to the island - deep-rooted concept of re- brought an end to Muslim Alaro, Alcudia, Maria de la fication by water in the sea. larly prominent part in the and the streets packed birth. Fire for the fiestas for occupation. Salut, Muro and Santa In Palma in particular, hun- Sant Joan celebrations. So with those there for the Sant Joan (John the Bap- In Majorca, Sa Pobla is at Maria del Cami. dreds of people descend on famed are the fiestas in party, the fiesta. tist) in midsummer is an the very centre of the cele- The fiestas for Sant Joan beaches, and the capital Ciutadella that they attract explicit recognition of the brations, but they take are the first major fiestas of also stages one of the most people from Majorca. The CONTINUED ON THE NEXT PAGE ancient custom. place all over the island as the summer. As well as the Sant Antoni and Sant well as, for instance, Sant villages where John the Joan are the most widely Antoni de Portmany in Baptist is the patron, the celebrated of all the fiestas. Ibiza. Sa Pobla’s correfoc is celebrations can occur al- John the Baptist’s feast day typically a few days before most anywhere on beaches (for his birth) is the 24th of Sant Antoni Eve, as is the on Saint John’s Eve, but

Sant Antoni (Saint Anthony The Great)

● Days up to and including January 16 and 17, especially in Alaro, Alcudia, , Arta, Inca, , , Muro, Pollensa (Puerto Pollensa), Sa Pobla, Sant Llorenç, Santa Maria del Cami, Son Servera.

● Ibiza - Sant Antoni de Portmany.

● Minorca - , Ciutadella, Es Mercadel, , Fornells, Mahon, Sant Lluis. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 4 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR DEMONS & SAINTS IN MAJORCA

CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUIS PAGE Sant The Hairy Sebastià

Johns of (Saint Sebastian) midsummer ● Days up to and

including ● John the Baptist is the January 20 (and basis for some odd charac- beyond). Palma’s patron ters to be found during the saint fiestas. Sant Joan fiestas or just be- fore. Sant Joan Pelós liter- ally means Saint John Hairs. In English, he is a legend had been created, known as John the Hairy. while the crocodile was There are two notable embalmed and is on dis- Hairy Johns. One dances in play at the Diocesan Mu- Felanitx on June 24, the seum in Palma. other in Pollensa on the The Sant Sebastià fiestas Sunday after Corpus in Palma coincide with Christi, which will be Sun- Sant Antoni. They there- day, June 14 in 2020. They fore add to what is a re- are both hairy. They have markably vibrant atmos- long manes of hair and phere in Majorca in Janu- masks and do look dis- A legend had been created, while the ary, and the city itself tinctly peculiar. crocodile was embalmed and is on rocks to a night of live mu- Once upon a time, many sic with numerous bands villages had this character. display at the Diocesan Museum in Palma. playing various styles on His dance was around the eight stages in different lo- fires and contributed to cations in Palma. As well warding off evil spirits Sebastian). as this party night, there is which might harm the There is a legend to ex- another massive correfoc, crops. Felanitx and Pol- plain this dragon, so let’s one to rival June’s. Several lensa are only two of four go back to the seventeenth demons’ gangs combine places where he is still to century and to a time with beasties, such as the be seen. The village of Sant when a dragon was terror- dragon, for a spectacular Joan has a Pelós, who per- ising the city. Children that passes along one of forms with a giant crow, were disappearing, so were Palma’s principal shopping Corb Nofre, and Sant cripples; their disappear- streets, Avenida Jaume III. Llorenç has in a way the ance was believed to have most peculiar of them all. been divine punishment. In Sant Llorenç, he’s Such was the fear that this known as Sant Joan Pelut, dragon was spreading that The saints of which means the same few people dared to go out thing (hairy), but most after sunset. Those who Majorca oddly he doesn’t have a had seen it spoke of a beast ● Four years ago, Ma- mane of hair. He has very Above left: Pollensa’s Pelós dances. Right: The cossiers in . Below left: the with a gigantic tail with jorca acquired a second short hair and no mask. Felanitx Pelós. Right: The cavallets in . scales. homegrown saint. Fray Ju- Pollensa’s Pelós dances Captain Bartomeu Coch niper Serra, Brother Juni- with the Eagles, two was from an illustrious per, was canonised by young women of the vil- Majorcan family. He was Pope Francis in September lage whose dresses are the governor of Alcudia, 2015. Juniper, or Junipero, adorned with jewels and but had ridden to Palma joined the ranks of saints who carry figures of ea- for a special mission - to because of missionary gles. The Felanitx Pelós woo his beloved. work in the New World has been distinguished by As he was in the process that commenced 250 years having been declared a fi- of doing so, he heard a ago. esta in the cultural inter- strange noise. He turned Interstate 280 is the free- est, meaning that it has a and saw a peculiar crea- way in the San Francisco form of protected status to ture, which he believed bay area that connects San ensure that the tradition is was about to attack him. Francisco to San Jose, maintained. He took his sword and where it forms a junction The Felanitx John once killed it. The dragon had with Route 101, the long- caused a fuss with a mem- been slain, and it was pre- est highway in California. ber of the Spanish royal sented to his beloved as This highway ends in Los family. In 1913, the Infanta proof of his love. Angeles and connects with Isabel visited Felanitx. The and flabiolers (whistlers). ample of the cavallets is It was in fact a crocodile, Interstate 5 along which mayor decided that Hairy The dragon There are cossier folk danc- provided in Llucmajor for an animal with which the you can drive to San Diego John should entertain the of old Palma ers in villages such as Al- the Santa Candida (Saint people of Majorca would and the Mexican border. daughter of the former gaida for the July Sant Candide) fiestas in August. have had little or no fa- Interstate 280, Route 101, queen, Isabel II, by danc- ● The demons in their Jaume fiestas (Sant Jaume There are also some miliarity. It had presuma- San Diego, San Jose and ing for her. The Infanta differing guises appear at is Santiago, Spain’s patron weird characters which are bly arrived on a ship, had San Francisco may be a was unimpressed. “Who is fiestas and fairs at all times saint) and Montuiri for the specific to certain fiestas. escaped into the old sew- world away from Majorca, this idiot?” she asked. Of- of the year. They are one Sant Bartomeu (Bartholo- One of these is the fire- ers, and had been growing but they are all linked to fended, the people of Fe- set of characters among mew the Apostle) fiestas breathing Drac de na Coca, thanks to a diet of rats. It the story of a Franciscan lanitx vowed that John others that typify these oc- in August. Other dancers the dragon which forms was only one and a half father from the Majorcan would only ever dance for casions, notably giants and are the cavallets. Usually part of a grand procession metres long, so not really village of Petra. people of the village in the caparrots (big heads). The children, the cavallets during the January fiestas big enough to be devour- future. Which nowadays, fiestas’ casts also comprise carry figures of horses in Palma for the city’s pa- ing humans. of course, isn’t the case. the xeremiers (bagpipers) around their waists. An ex- tron, Sant Sebastià (Saint Nevertheless, CONTINUED ONPAGE 6 SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2019 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 5 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 6 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR DEMONS & SAINTS IN MAJORCA

Santa Catalina Thomas Santa Catalina in . Thomàs

(La Beata-The Blessed) ● Days up to and including July 28 in Valldemossa and Vila- franca de Bonany, days leading up to the firts Sunday in September in ; the third Saturday in October in Palma. it is one of Majorca’s most important fiesta oc- casions. Leading politi- cians are invited by the mayor, a sign of the signifi- cance attached to La Beata in Santa Margalida. The procession is based on an old folk rhyme and song that explains the leg- end of Catalina Thomàs

taking food to poor har- vesters and of her be- ing confronted by the devil, who snatches the jar that contains the food, smashes and buries it. Cata- lina retrieves the food, which turns b Born in 1713, Juniper went to out to be even tast- ier than it had been. Mexico in 1749. Twenty years Demons smashing earthenware jars later, a combined missionary are now central to the procession. and military expedition set off Catalina Thomàs for California. was born in Vall- demossa in 1531. In 1769, the first mission galida started to celebrate Her piety, her was founded - San Diego. the saint by staging a pro- teachings, her re- In all, there were to be 21 cession. This was eventu- ligious ecstasy all missions, of which Juniper ally to incur the displeas- contributed to Serra was responsible for ure of the Bishop of Ma- first her beatifi- seven. He didn’t found San jorca who, in 1849, sent a La Beata in Santa Margalida. cation and then Francisco - that was the letter to the parish. It had canonisation. Before she work of Father Francisco come to his attention that was canonised, the village Palóu in 1776 - but there is this festivity carried on of Valldemossa had intro- a statue in his honour in until after dark and that duced a special celebration. Golden Gate Park, just as the procession included Held at the end of the July, there are other memorials scenes with a devil. “He, this features the triumphal to Juniper elsewhere in the devil, persecutes and carriage of the saint as a intends to kill the Blessed, child - La Beateta. Each CONTINUEDFROM PAGE 4 but his appearance gives year, a six-year-old girl is rise to laughter and to the chosen for the role, and California. distraction of the faithful. she is accompanied in the The canonisation was on Holy aspects are open to carriage by angels, children September 23, 2015; this ridicule. There are serious who are younger than her. was two days before the disorders and offences Valldemossa’s procession date in 1988 when Juniper against God.” is therefore very different had been beatified by John The objections of the to Santa Margalida’s, but it Paul II. The fiestas in Petra bishop, Rafael Manso, only is just as important in the for Juniper Serra take place served to reinforce and fur- Majorcan fiestas’ calendar. around these dates. They ther popularise the proces- Palma also has a triumphal are modest fiestas that fea- sion. Now held at the start carriage with La Beateta. ture a parade of floats, but of September, This is in October, with they are a reflection of the the procession along some saint’s humility and, above principal roads in the city all, of the pride felt in this Sant starting from the convent small village. of Santa María Magdalena, Saint Catalina Thomàs Juniper which was where Catalina was canonised in 1930, Thomàs spent much of her having been beatified in Serra comparatively short life. ● 1792. At some point fol- Late September She died in 1574. lowing the beatification, in the village of Petra the village of Santa Mar- The fiestas in Petra for Juniper Serra take place in September. CONTINUED ONPAGE 8 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 7 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 8 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR DEMONS & SAINTS IN MAJORCA

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 6 raid. It was Uluç Ali Reis, in effect his second in command. Also referred to Moors and as Occhiali and Uchali, it was known in May 1561 that an attack being led Christians by him was imminent; Uluç Ali’s ● In the sixteenth century, Ma- ships had gathered off Ibiza. jorca and the Balearics were fre- The question was - where would quently the target for raids by cor- the attack be? It turned out to be Sol- sairs from the Ottoman Empire. ler. At four in the morning on the These weren’t opportunistic priva- eleventh of May, Uluç Ali’s men teers. They were highly organised. landed. As with Dragut’s force, Uluç The raids, in search of plunder and Ali’s was to be repelled, the role slaves, were part of the determined played by women - the Valents Do- efforts by the Ottomans to expand nes (brave women) - having always the empire in the western Mediter- had prominence in a re-enactment ranean. that dates back to 1855. There was no more important fig- There are two other “battles” that ure in extending Ottoman mari- commemorate sixteenth century pi- time power than Turgut Reis, also rate assaults. In Sant Elm, Andratx, known as the The Drawn Sword of the re-enactment is played out on Islam and, more simply, as Dragut. the beach. It is rather more playful He has been referred to as the great- than the simulations in Pollensa and est pirate warrior of all time, but Soller; an event in which children the pirate tag belies what was to become can take part. The Sant Elm battle is in recognised as military genius. Yet for all recognition of a raid on the second this, he was to suffer the occasional set- of August, 1578. back. In Valldemossa, there has been a In May 1550, Dragut unsuccessfully tried re-enactment since 2014. It remem- to capture Bonifacio in Corsica. As well as bers a raid on the first of October that island, he had Sardinia and Spanish 1552, when the captain, Ramon Gual, ports in his sights. At the very end of the called on the help of Sant Jordi (Saint month, he was to lead his fleet along the George) in defeating an invading force of western coast of Majorca. On the night of around 500 with just 28 men. the thirtieth of May, the fleet entered the The Santa Ponsa Moors and Christians bat- Bay of Pollensa. His men landed on the For- tle re-enacts a different set of circum- mentor promontory. They marched to- stances to the four from the sixteenth cen- wards the village of Pollensa, and it was tury. It is from the thirteenth century - during this march that things started to go 1229 to be precise - and it wasn’t Moors do- wrong for Dragut. Two of his three units ing the attacking, it was Christians. got lost. In early September 1229, Jaume I of Ara- The re-enactment of the Moors and gon (James the Conqueror, Jaume el Con- Christians battle in Pollensa on the second queridor) headed a force of 15,000 soldiers of August, which is the climax to the Pol- and 1,500 horsemen on 155 ships that lensa summer fiestas, is fabulous street headed to Majorca from the ports of Cam- theatre. The Christians wear white; they brils, Salou and Tarragona. Their objective are armed with little more than staffs. The was to take Majorca (and the Balearics) and faces of the Moors are painted; they have so end over three centuries of Muslim swords. Hugely popular, this simulation of domination. At midnight on the tenth, the the events of 1550 has existed since the fleet was in the bay of Santa Ponsa. The first nineteenth century. Yet it isn’t entirely ac- encounter proved to be an easy victory for curate. the Aragonese-Catalan force; there were The Christians were far better armed and some 1,500 enemy casualties. The conquest prepared than the re-enactment suggests. of Majorca had begun in Santa Ponsa. On They had lances, crossbows and light mus- New Year’s Eve, Jaume I and his men en- kets (arquebuses). There were 42 horse- tered Madina Mayurqa (Palma). The con- men, an armed force - the local militia - of quest was complete. around 500, and armed men who had been drafted in from other villages. Pollensa was prepared, because Majorca had been pre- Sa Fira / Es Firó pared. The island’s viceroy had been ● In Soller, events for the spring fair take warned by the governor of Ibiza that there place over four days prior to the second was an Ottoman fleet on the way. Monday in May, this being the date for Es Dragut had some 1,500 men at his dis- Firó, i.e. the Moors and Christians battle. posal for this particular raid. When the main unit arrived in Pollensa, the other two units were still trying to find their way La Patrona to the village. It is quite possible that the ● Fiestas for Pollensa’s patron, Our Lady Pollensa captain, Joan Mas, had more men of the Angels, with the Moors and Chris- than Dragut; it is estimated that at least tians battle always on the final day of the fi- 1,000 men were waiting for the pirates as estas - the second of August. well as a number of women, who were armed with sharp objects. In addition, Joan Mas could call on the Rei en Jaume help of Our Lady of the Angels, Pollensa’s ● Santa Ponsa’s fiestas for King James patron. The re-enactment commences take place at the start of September. The with his plea for assistance before he en- Moors and Christians battle is on the first gages Dragut. The pirates were repelled. or, more typically, second Saturday in Sep- Joan Mas was the hero. There is a statue of tember. him in Pollensa. The battle in Sant Elm is at the start of The story in Soller eleven years later August, and Valldemossa’s on the first Sat- wasn’t dissimilar. Dragut didn’t lead the urday in October. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 9 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 10 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR Illetas, Portals,Palmanova, Paguera Magalluf, Santa Ponsa

SOMETHINGCALVIA FOR EVERYONE “We want YOU to continue to enjoy our 300 days per year of sunshine, our 54 kilometres of coastline and 36 high quality beaches. But Calvia is much more that sun and beach. It has sport, nature, food, culture and fun. Without question, Calvia is your best choice,” says Mayor Alfonso Rodriguez.

“Calvia has always been one of the favourite holiday destinations for the British and we want this to continue.....” MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 11 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 12 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR CALVIA- INTERVIEW WITH THE MAYOR ALFONSO RODRIGUEZ CALVIA: offers a quality and unique Mediterranean experience b “We want you to continue to enjoy our 300 days per year of sunshine, our 54 kilometres of coastline and 36 high quality beaches. But Calvia is much more that sun and beach. It has sport, nature, food, culture and fun. Without question, Calvia is your best choice.” ULLETIN deputy editor Hum- proving the general urban and natural envi- phrey Carter talks to the Mayor ronment and the infrastructure. We’ve in- of Calvia, Alfonso Rodriguez, vested a great deal of money and time in pro- about the season, plans for the tecting and caring for our wonderful beaches B and crystal-clear water while also promot- future and what makes Calvia so special. ing all the large events the not Question —This has been another busy only stages every year but also supports. year for Calvia, we have seen numerous We have a number of excellent sporting, changes and improvements. What are the cultural and gastronomic events which ap- plans for the future? peal to different groups of clientele and help Answer - This year we have continued with to broaden our attraction as a destination. our plan of a progressive series of significant improvements and changes as we push ahead with our campaign to improve quality, “Calvia has always been security, safety and social harmony. one of the favourite Our principal aim is to offer all of the tour- ists who come and spend their holidays in holiday destinations for Calvia an unforgettable experience which is the British and we want going to make them want to return, be this to Magalluf, Palmanova, Santa Ponsa, that to continue. It is a Peguera, Illetas, whichever of the excellent leading European resorts the municipality of Calvia has to of- destination where you fer. In order to achieve this, and we have done this over the past four years, there have will enjoy yourself so been improvements to and diversification of much that you will want the products and activities which are on of- fer in Calvia. to return.”

Question — Are the public and private Question — How has the image of Calvia, sectors continuing to play an important in particular Magalluf, changed overseas, joint role in this project? in particular in the United Kingdom, over Answer - Yes, the cooperation between the the past five to six years? two sectors is very much ongoing and is ex- Answer -Calvia’s image overseas has tremely important. We have already seen changed and improved significantly, espe- the results of this collaboration over the past cially in the British market, which is very im- few years and we will continue working portant because resorts like Magalluf and with the private sector, which is fundamen- Palmanova are extremely well known in the tal with regard to redeveloping and upgrad- UK. If you look back some five to six years, ing Calvia, in particular the hotels. And they were party resorts, infamous for rowdy while the private sector has been investing tourism and excesses; booze tourism for ex- in improving hotels, we, as a council, have ample. However, more recently, Calvia and been working in parallel, investing in im- these resorts in particular have become bea- MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 13 CALVIA- INTERVIEW WITH THE MAYOR ALFONSO RODRIGUEZ cons of quality tourism, renovation, renewal and this is all part of an overall consoli- people coming to Magalluf simply, and revival. dation plan to not only continue im- for example, to party and indulge in Magalluf, for example, has made huge proving hotel quality and standards excesses, while increasing the num- steps towards becoming a quality resort and but also diversify the products we of- ber of quality family and adult tour- this is evident today. We have been working fer out of season. We’re taking the em- ists along with a better quality of on projects to encourage more family and phasis off sun and beach and paying young holidaymakers who respect adult tourism and give them more space in more attention to the low season - the quality products Calvia now of- and around the resorts to enjoy quality time winter and early spring. We have an fers and will continue to improve. together in a safe and protected environ- amazing selection of top quality ment. Obviously, we are still an extremely beaches but we also have a destination Question — How do you envisage popular destination for nightlife and enter- which offers a wealth of sporting ac- Calvia ten years from now? tainment and that’s fine, but it has be con- tivities and events, such as the inter- Answer - I see Calvia as a destina- ducted within the rules and regulations - the national beach volleyball tournament tion which will have been totally limits have to be respected. We have been in Magalluf and Palmanova, the half transformed and the leading holi- working hard on stamping out “excessive marathon, the beach rugby, the global day destination in the Mediterra- tourism” (pub crawls and party boats, etc.) football tournament in Santa Ponsa. nean. It will be an environmentally and managed to reestablish a balance be- We also have to mention the cultural and socially sustainable destination tween young people having fun, local resi- events which are extremely impor- in which tourism and residential dents and other holidaymakers, so that eve- tant and attract thousands of tourists, life will be compatible and which ryone is able to enjoy a quality lifestyle and such as the Mallorca Live Festival. This will be operating all year round, pro- holiday in peace and quiet and in harmony year some 30,000 people attended the viding more and better full-time with the natural surroundings. international music festival in just two days. “We are introducing the work and attracting quality tourists from all So, we are always looking for and support- over the world. We are also working on in- Question — This year, you have worked ing quality sporting, cultural, musical and very latest technical troducing the very latest digital technology closer than ever with the British authori- family events. Quality is the key here and innovations in digital into the resort and hotels so that we, as a ties, here in Calvia and in UK. While the that is our trademark; our brand if you like. council, can learn more about what visitors number of incidents and problems has And that is how we intend to compete with tourism so we can want and about market changes. Therefore, been reduced significantly, there still re- other destinations and that is what we stand monitor what visitors we can meet demands to the very best of our main a few issues to be addressed. What for - quality. We offer safety and the possi- want, what they like to capabilities. are they? bility to enjoy a vast range of activities in a Answer - We have been working extremely welcoming environment. do so that we can meet Question — What is the message Calvia is hard together - not only here in Calvia and in their future demands as taking to London? the resorts, but also in the United Kingdom Question — Looking back at the season, Answer - Our slogan this year is ‘Calvia is and on social media. So, in cooperation with what are the initial conclusions and have best as possible.” your best choice’. And why is it your best the British consulate, we have not only tack- you managed to extend the season? choice? Calvia is a holiday destination which led the problems of anti-social behaviour and Answer - We have just held the first of a main pretty much the same. That said, one boasts 36 beaches, 14 of which have been alcohol abuse at grassroots level in the re- number of meetings with all the various sec- has to take into account the massive invest- awarded the Q for quality award, and that sorts like Magalluf, we have also drawn tors involved in tourism in Calvia to analyse ment many of the hotels in Calvia have means we have the capability to offer sun young people’s attention to the potential the season and we are on par with 2009, made in upgrading the quality of their prod- and beach holidays of the highest standard. problems and consequences via awareness which was a great year. We can’t start com- ucts. So in one form or another, that finan- But we’re also going to London in order to and information campaigns in the UK. We paring seasons with the past few years be- cial outlay has to be recuperated. But with a draw attention to and promote all of the vari- have not got a problem with some of the re- cause they were extraordinary for various longer season and by maintaining or increas- ous international sports tournaments and sorts being popular for young people who reasons beyond our control. But, for exam- ing the number of visitors, I see no reason the training facilities we offer. For example, want to come and have some fun and have a ple, hotel occupancy this September was for major increases in room rates next year. next year we’re hosting an official ATP grass- good time, but what we’re no longer putting slightly higher than last year. Tourism Over the past three years, for example, the court tennis tournament as part of the build- up with is that’s it’s a free-for-all and that spending has also risen and the season is get- number of four-star rooms has increased up to Wimbledon. That means tennis play- everything and anything goes. We’ve have ting longer and this is the direction we want from around 32 percent to 66 percent or ers can come to Calvia and play on first-class had great success in stamping that out and to be moving in. We want to have a longer more, so costs obviously have to be covered. courts or train at our athletics centre. We everyone involved is very satisfied with the season so that businesses have more time, But I think the solution, the key issue, is have triathlon courses, swimming, fantastic results. We have got the message across and that we attract a tourism of a better quality value for money and that is what Calvia of- cycling, hiking, running, rugby and football it has paid dividend here in Calvia. and, what is very important, that the num- fers. pitches, so why not choose to come to Cal- We want to create a happy balance be- ber of tourists doesn’t hamper quality and via? These are just a few reasons, and what tween young and family tourism. This year spending. If, at the end of the day, we have Question — Would you, as Mayor, still like they demonstrate is that Calvia is a destina- we increased the number of controls and in- slightly fewer visitors but spending is up, to have more support from the state se- tion to practise and enjoy sport all year spections, especially with regard to the sale then I think we’re on the right track. It’s a curity services? round. In addition, there is the excellent gas- of cheap alcohol and young people drinking good result. Answer - This year, we had some very im- tronomy with a wide selection of top-end in the streets, bar and club opening times, Obviously, in-resort spending is something portant developments with regard to secu- quality restaurants, while there are the op- and noise levels, especially on terraces. All we’re always monitoring and of course, with rity, and the most important was the reloca- portunities to experience and learn about this has helped us create a destination where regard to the British market, the strength or tion of the Guardia Civil’s attention to tour- the culture and the traditions of Calvia and young people can come and have fun but in weakness of the pound is always going to in- ists office (SATE) to the very heart of Magal- our island in general. a controlled environment where all the vari- fluence spending. We need a strong pound. luf. It remained open all season 24/7. This ous holiday markets are comfortable and helped us bring a sense of control and calm Question — How have visitors to Calvia compatible. Question — Are there going to be more to the resort in cooperation with the extraor- in general reacted to all the improve- hotels open this winter? dinary work carried out by the members Cal- ments which have been made? Question — Calvia continues to be Spain’s Answer - There are going to be a few more via’s Local Police force, who worked round Answer - The response has been extremely most popular single holiday destination, hotels open and that is very encouraging the clock this summer. Over the past two satisfactory. The reaction has been very posi- especially in the United Kingdom. How news because, of late, we’ve become accus- years, they’ve doubled their efforts, the time tive because they’ve enjoyed the improve- do you intend maintaining Calvia’s pole tomed to a winter during which the vast ma- spent on the beat and on patrol, working ments to the environment, the hotels, the position in the face of growing competi- jority of hotels have closed for two to three overtime to maintain peace and tranquility infrastructure, the products and the secu- tion from other destinations while over- months. Not only are the hotels which are in key nightspots. That said, we still need rity, and we hope they will return for many coming problems such as the demise of staying open all year of a four-star category, more members of the security services and years to come. Calvia has always been one of Thomas Cook? more hotels are opening earlier, around the we will continue asking for reinforcements the favourite holiday destinations for the Answer - Magalluf and Palmanova, in par- beginning of March, for example, and clos- from central government. The Guardia Civil British and we want that to continue. It is a ticular, are top destinations for the British. ing later. So this is also good news for Calvia. do a great job but they lack sufficient re- leading European destination where you We’re talking about 30,000 hotels beds in The longer we’re open, the more tourists sources. We still have an issue with bars and will enjoy yourself so much that you will the two resorts alone and, with regard to who can come and the more jobs we can cre- clubs failing to respect opening hours or want to return. Thomas Cook, they only had a six percent ate. noise levels, but what we have reduced con- We are introducting the very latest techni- share of the market, so the fallout was not as siderably is petty crime and anti-social be- cal innovations in digital tourism so we can severe as in other areas. Plus, the hoteliers Question — Are the hoteliers going to put haviour in public places. monitor what visitors want, what they like have become less dependent on tour opera- their rates up? We’ve managed to make a major break- to do, so that we can meet their future de- tors. They are using other booking platforms Answer - I don’t think so, I think they’ll re- through in reducing the volume of young mands as best as possible. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 14 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR CALVIA- SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE Spoilt for choice in CALVIA bThere is a wide range of municipal sporting facilities, among which are the high-standard athletics track in Magalluf, the Calvia rugby pitch, the six indoor pools, and the seven artificial football pitches. Together, these provide various training options for international sportspeople.

Calvia takes its place at the World Travel Market with the guarantee of experience as a holiday destination that is commit- ted, year after year, to improvement in the quality of services, to continuous renovation, to safety for visitors, and to the care and protection of the environ- ment.

Sports, health and lifestyle tourism As well as the outstanding climate and at least 300 days of sun a year, Calvia has spectacular landscapes that combine the coast and the mountains and which are the backdrop to all manner of sporting ac- tivities. There is a wide range of munici- pal sporting facilities, among which are the high-standard athletics track in Ma- galluf, the Calvia rugby pitch, the six in- door pools, and the seven artificial foot- ball pitches. Together, these provide vari- ous training options for international sportspeople. In addition, there are the privately owned facilities - the three golf courses, the two tennis clubs and the four mari- nas. Calvia has attractions such as the vast Tradition, history and the “fiesta” come Galatzo park in the Tramuntana Moun- together for major events like the Rei en tains. This public “finca” has several hik- Jaume fiestas, which recall the landing of ing routes, and there are 32 kilometres of troops under King James I of Aragon in pedestrian ways that link different parts Santa Ponsa and the conquest of Majorca. of Calvia and which enable a highly natu- The hotels in Calvia are world class and ral and healthy form of tourism. have accommodation adapted to all ne- Visitors to Calvia love the high quality cessities. of gastronomy, which is a fusion of the very best Mediterranean and Spanish cui- Top-level international sine with international. This is a gastron- sporting events omy for all needs and its quality is empha- The Challenge Peguera-Mallorca triath- sised by there being restaurants with lon takes place in October and is an essen- Michelin Stars and those which have re- tial event in the international sporting ceived other international recognition. calendar, with more than 1,200 athletes MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 15 CALVIA- SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

taking part. The 1.9 kilometre swim, the 90 kilometres cycling and the 21 kilometres run create a unique circuit that takes in dif- ferent parts of Calvia. The ATP Tour returns to Majorca next year. Leading players from the men’s tour will compete at the Mallorca Champion- ships in June, one of several grass-court tournaments before Wimbledon. In March, sport and nature combine for the Galatzo Trail-Mallorca Mountain Mara- thon in the impressive Galatzo finca in the Tramuntana; the mountains are a Unesco World Heritage Site. The Half Marathon Magaluf in April has a spectacular urban circuit.

Mallorca Live Festival, an event unique to Calvia The Mallorca Live Festival in Magalluf in ern Europe. Each year it brings together the party and social atmospheres are in perfect May has become one of the most impor- finest international artists and it provides harmony and that make Calvia a cultural tant of the spring music festivals in south- an experience in which music, trends and and musical reference point. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 16 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 17 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 18 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR MAJORCA - TOURISTS GIVE THEIR VERDICT “It’s the best view in the world” A British family’s long love affair with the Balearics 1982

● NAME: ANNE-MARIE ELMER 1969 AND FAMILY ● PLACE: PETERBOROUGH ● HOLIDAY: POLLENSA AND PORTALS NOUS

“It all began in the summer of 1969”

Anne-Marie Elmer’s family love affair with Majorca stretches back 50 years and spans four generations. It all began in the summer of 1969 when her mother, Alison, came on holiday to all the differ- Portals Nous for two weeks with a group ence be- of friends. cause de- She immediately fell in love with spite all of the island and her feelings for the the years of island were further enhanced visiting the when her mother, Anne-Marie’s island, we’ve late grandmother Doris came to never got bored of the island on a familiarity trip in Majorca. the early 80s when she worked “We love nothing for Thomas Cook. more than explor- The regular family holidays ing the island and continued, with Anne-Marie’s always seem to brother, Alex ,joining the party. discover some- Anne-Marie and her brother where new. There first came out to Majorca with is always some Mum, Dad Phil, and her late little village or grandparents, Doris and Jim, viewpoint we when she was aged five and she have missed over had the holiday of her life. 1985 all these years. “We stayed in Puerto Pol- “We love the food, the culture, the lensa and it was just glorious. I freedom of being monuments and attractions and going to remember we arrived after dark, so able to relax and the local markets, everyone is so friendly it was not until the next morning when we l e n s a play with her friends and helpful and we come over all through threw open the shutters and the windows and the island so much, it was the only safely, unlike at home the year. that we gazed out across the Bay of Pol- place we were going to holiday as a family in the UK - and she always gets a real kick “We enjoy all of the different seasons be- lensa. and now, the fourth generation of the fam- out of telling her school friends all about cause of all the different activities and “It is the best view in the world and we ily has fallen for the island, my daughter her Majorcan adventures when she gets events you can enjoy. never get tired of it. Anjelina, who is now aged 12. back from holiday. Majorca is glorious at any time of the year. “We continued coming out on holiday un- “She counts the days between visits and “What is more, after so many visits we’ve “Driving through the mountains is one of til 1988 when the family decided to buy a has got to know so many friends in the port all got to grips with the language, some bet- our favourite activities, my boyfriend came holiday home in the port, we all loved Pol- over the years. She loves the sea and the ter than others I must add, but that makes out this year for the first time and we took MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 19 MAJORCA - TOURISTS GIVE THEIR VERDICT

Pollensa

2008

than at home in the UK. light and a joy. We all absolutely love Ma- Being able to wake up in the morning and jorca, always will, and we will continue to be on the beach or in the sea in a matter of return when ever we can throughout the minutes for most of the year is such a de- year for generations to come.”

2014 him up into the Tramuntana and he could not believe his eyes. He was lost for words at the spectacular views. “To be honest I prefer Ma- jorca in the winter. The island is quieter and the pace of life has slowed down after the hectic summer plus many of 2019 my long standing friends are busy working during the sum- mer. “But the winter also gives us, as a family, laxed and laid more quality time together. back. “That said, we really enjoy going to all the “And, it will not be long before we’re all local fiestas, There are so many and they back on the island. We have always spent are all so different and exciting and there is Christmas /New Year in the port as a fam- always something going on. ily. We love the Three Kings, the parades, “We also love the sense of community in the delicious festive food and then the the port, everyone knows each other and other festive fiestas like San Antoni. Plus, we’re always getting together with old there is always a good chance that the friends for a coffee or a drink, it’s just so re- weather’s going to be much, much better MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 20 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR MAJORCA HOTEL FEDERATION - INTERVIEW

María Frontera, President of the Majorca Hotel Federation.

“We owe a

2017. And Spain was the second most vis- days. This is because there are the benefits ited country in the world, according to fig- of being close - a couple of hours flying great deal to ures from the World Tourism Organiza- time from major European cities; of an ex- tion.” ceptional climate more or less the whole Tourism is going to increase further be- year round; of security and a healthy envi- cause globalisation and new technologies ronment; of beaches that are among the have created more opportunities to travel. best in the world; and of fabulous nature, the British...” A window to the world, it might be said, such as the Tramuntana Mountains, a b has been opened, and curiosity to see, dis- World Heritage Site.” “For several months, the Spanish and British cover and experiment has grown. This is governments have been working on a joint plan so not going to change. What is the importance of the Brit- For several months, the Spanish and Brit- ish market for the Majorcan tour- that there are no problems for travelling to Spain after ish governments have been working on a ism sector? Brexit; this will apply whether there is a deal or no deal. joint plan so that there are no problems for “It is Spain’s biggest tourism market and travelling to Spain after Brexit; this will ap- the second biggest in the Balearics. British British tourists are extremely loyal, and we dearly ply whether there is a deal or no deal. visitors are loyal to Majorca because they want to continue to welcome them. There has been British tourists are extremely loyal, and find, as noted before, the perfect place for we dearly want to continue to welcome enjoying some days of relaxation that can intensive work to ensure that they are not affected.” them. There has been intensive work to be combined with numerous activities - ensure that they are not affected.” cultural, sporting, wellness, gastronomic. September. The second largest, the UK, British clients appreciate the essence of was between 20% and 28%.” Majorca’s hotels have ex- Majorca, the Mediterranean perienced considerable culture, our customs and tradi- by Jason How did the collapse of Thomas transformation in recent tions, the climate ... . This is Cook affect the season and the ho- years. Has this influenced why so many British people Moore tel sector? the profile of clients? have been inspired to wish to “It is clear that if a company such as Tho- “Majorca is a long-established make Majorca their second resi- mas Cook ceases operations this will have destination with a high degree dence.” a significant influence. However, the ho- of hotel specialisation. Hotel tel sector in Majorca has experienced other companies have made quality What message would you aría Frontera of the Majorca vicissitudes in the past and has known their sign of identity. Nowa- like to give British tour- Hotel Federation talks to Bul- how to overcome them without problem. days, clients can find products ists? letin managing editor Jason We now have to continue working, as we that are adapted to their preferences and “The relationship between Majorca and Moore about Majorca, its always have done, in taking advantage of needs - hotels for holiday tourism; urban British visitors has always been magnifi- M all the strengths that make Majorca such a and city tourism establishments, such as cent, and we endeavour to continue im- tourists and its future. unique destination. We have to look to the the magnificent boutique hotels in the his- proving and offering quality and experi- Question. How has the 2019 tourism future and continue to innovate, to con- toric centre of Palma; hotels specialising in ences that are available to everyone. I be- season been? stantly increase quality and to focus on the business sector and in meetings, incen- lieve that Majorca is a benchmark for tour- “Between June and August, there was oc- sustainability and conservation of the en- tives, conferences and exhibitions; those ism and that this is thanks to markets such cupancy of approximately 90% in hotels vironment.” for cycling, active tourism, health, well- as the British, which have long placed their which are members of the Majorca Ho- ness and more. trust in us and to which we owe a great teliers Federation. This figure is very simi- Do you believe that Brexit will af- “We are able to respond to highly in- deal. lar to 2018. In terms of overnight stays by fect British tourism? formed clients, who have a wide map of We are delighted that they continue nationality, the largest foreign tourism “Tourism on a global scale increases year destinations available to them and seek choosing us for enjoying their holidays, market (the German) varied between 30% after year. Last year there were 1,400 mil- unique and exclusive experiences but who and we hope that this will always be the and 40% for the whole season - April to lion travellers; six per cent more than in have chosen Majorca as their place for holi- case.” MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 21 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 22 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR HISTORY - OF THE BIKINI Itsy Bitsy Teeny Weeny

exposure of the female navel in Hollywood films. Joan Collins by Sarah popped a ruby gemstone in hers Forge in the 1955 movie Land of the Pharaohs to get round the cen- sors. Thankfully, by the 1960s, of- ficials had given up on their navel narrow-mindedness. You could blame World War Two b In June 1946, in a for many things, but the bikini is ar- guably one of the most exotic. Fabric cock-a-hoop post- was rationed during the war so fashion houses used this as an excuse to war mood, Parisian shorten hems and reveal more flesh. The midriff was exposed for the first fashion and time and the floodgates opened for a bi- kini frenzy. costume designer In June 1946, in a cock-a-hoop post- Jacques Heim war mood, Parisian fashion and cos- tume designer Jacques Heim launched launched his two- his two-piece the Atome which he mar- keted as “the world’s smallest bathing piece the Atome suit”. Meanwhile, another Parisian, Louis Réard, a former automotive engi- which he marketed neer who had recently taken over his mother’s lingerie boutique near the Fo- as “the world’s lies Bergère in Paris, had observed women on Mediterranean beaches roll- smallest bathing ing down their bathing suits to expose suit”. more skin. So barely a month later, on 5 July, Louis came up with an even teenier two-piece made from just 30 If you think you’re too small to inches of fabric. He expected it to make a difference, you haven’t send out shockwaves, so called it Bi- spent a night with a mosquito.” kini after the location of the United “ This African proverb (or quote States’ first nuclear tests some four from the Dalai Lama, depending on days earlier – Bikini Atoll. which Google search you believe) always Dubbing it “smaller than the small- springs to mind when I think of the bi- est bathing suit”, Louis had to over- kini. This skimpy scrap of material has come one main problem – finding caused such a disproportionate hoo-ha Winner, Kerstin ‘Kiki’ Håkansson, was someone willing to model such a over the decades, causing catholic priests crowned in a bikini and controversy en- scanty scrap of clothing. Luckily, 19- and conservative dictators to get their sued. year-old showgirl Micheline Bernar- knickers in a knot and distracted hus- some flesh, while little bathing cabanas dini debuted the suit at a fashion event bands to get a swift backhander from were hauled to the shore and back so la- at the Piscine Molitor in the centre of their furious wives. But really, it’s noth- dies could change in utter privacy. Paris. Micheline was snapped holding a ing new under the sun. matchbox aloft, demonstrating that While a certain pair of Parisian males The beginning Louis’ invention was so small it would would have us believe that the bikini is a In 1900, women were allowed to com- fit inside. The fan mail started to flood modern invention, there is evidence that pete in (some of) the Olympics and by in and she received more than 50,000 ancient Roman women were already 1913, Carl Jantzen, founder of epony- letters commending her modelling ef- wearing rudimentary two-pieces to help mous Oregon-based swimwear com- forts. Beach-going women would never them exercise in comfort. Indeed, mosa- pany Jantzen, designed a tight-fitting look the same again, and not everyone ics at Villa Romana del Casale in Sicily de- shorts and t-shirt number to enhance was happy. pict bikini-clad ladies running, throwing swimmers’ performance. It caused a bit and weightlifting. But, somewhere along of a stir. Miss World the line, society decided women should By the 1930s, two-piece swimwear In 1951, Eric Morley organised a bikini be a little more covered up. was everywhere – but generous contest as part of the Festival of Britain Throughout the 19th century, an era of enough to reveal only the thinnest celebrations, an event that was dubbed full skirts, bustles and petticoats, bathing slice of midriff. For this was the era ‘Miss World’ by the media. Winner, suits were suitably heavy and constrict- when many considered navel exposure ing. Weights were sewed into the hems of to be both immodest and indecent. In smock-like bathing gowns to prevent the US, the Motion Picture Production Ursula Andress emerged from the sea in a them riding up in the sea and flashing Code enforced from 1934 banned the white belted number in Bond film Dr No. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 23 HISTORY - OF THE BIKINI

Women in bikinis in Benidorm, in 1964

Kerstin ‘Kiki’ Håkansson, was crowned solve the country’s terrible economic Other coastal towns in a bikini and controversy ensued. Hav- problems post-Civil War. ing decided to make Miss World an annual Benidorm found itself at the heart swiftly copied event, countries with strong religious be- of Spain’s flourishing tourist indus- Benidorm’s lead and Above: Raquel Welch in the film One liefs threatened to boycott. The bikini was try and in 1952, the local mayor, Million Years BC in 1966. Right: Brigitte duly banned and Kiki remains the only Señor Zaragoza, decided to pass a the Spanish Bardot was snapped in a floral number Miss World to take her title in a two- local law permitting the wearing tourism boom on the beach at Cannes Film Festival in piece. Declared sinful by the Vatican, the of bikinis on Benidorm beach. He 1953. Below: Carrie Fisher rocked her bikini was also banned from beaches in thought it would help his town continued golden version in 1983 Star Wars film Belgium, Italy, Spain and Austria. compete with more ‘relaxed’ resorts unabated. In Return of the Jedi. w An astute PR man, Louis didn’t let the in France and suchlike. Needless to Pope’s condemnation put him off and in- say, the hapless mayor attracted fact, by 1979, stead launched an aggressive ad campaign outcry and the archbishop Franco barely saying it’s not a real bikini “unless it could threatened his excommunica- four years in his be pulled through a wedding ring”. Plenty tion, the most serious penalty of northern European women (and men) the Catholic Church could in- grave, the seemed to agree, and a streak of sex sym- flict. One day he rose at 4am, beaches had bols helped cement the bikini’s place in jumped on his Vespa and rode wider society. nine hours to Madrid to ask gone topless. In 1953, blonde bombshell Brigitte Bar- Franco for help. The Gen- dot was snapped in a floral number on the eral sent him back to beach at Cannes Film Festival – in fact Benidorm. Eight days Brigitte’s two-piece has been credited later, Franco’s wife with doing more for French international Carmen arrived with trade than its car industry. Hollywood a Govern- stars like Marilyn Monroe and Esther Wil- ment min- liams followed (swim) suit in the US. In ister and re- 1962, Ursula Andress emerged from the confirmed his sea in a white belted number in Bond film appointment as mayor, as well Dr No. That same year, Playboy put a bi- as giving him authorisation to kini on the front cover for the first time. enter The Royal Palace of El Raquel Welch donned a fur-trimmed af- Pardo in Madrid whenever he fair in the 1966 British adventure fantasy so wished. The excommunica- film One Million Years BC and Carrie Fisher tion process was forgotten and rocked her golden version in 1983 Star the bikini stayed. Wars film Return of the Jedi. The bikini was Other coastal towns swiftly mainstream and, with a helping hand copied Benidorm’s lead and the from the uninhibited Brazilians, you can Spanish tourism boom continued now choose from an endless array of fish- unabated. In fact, by 1979, Franco net, drawstring, underboob, G-string, barely four years in his grave, the push-up - you name it, they’ve made it. beaches had gone topless. What a lot of fuss about (literally) Introduction in Spain nothing. So how did Spain look upon this fashion phenomenon? As you could well imagine, deeply conservative and religious dictator General Franco was not a fan. Women would not be flaunting themselves on Spanish beaches under his watch, al- though he was quite happy to cultivate a growing tourist industry in order to help MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 24 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR MAJORCA - PARADISE ISLAND

‘My friend the tourist’ the truth or just a slogan?

b Putting aside our high season family days still reign su- preme. But, and here is groups, we immediately move into a the big but - Mr & Mrs Jones are a little more morass of very different and sometimes savvy than they used to be and are more conflicting groups likely to organise their own holiday as use an agent - and are much less loyal to one destina- tion as they once were. by Frank As for the attitudes to- Leavers Furthermore, each differing group wards tourists of those of or section, will be a little different from a us who live and work here, I suspect they similarly profiled group if they are German are as diverse as those who holiday on the or Scandinavian - maybe French, or who island. Indeed, some of us like to pretend (or knows even Italian? I will have to take care, otherwise!) that they hate tourists; this is not to fall into the trap of allocating each and particularly prevalent amongst sections of fter living and working in every nation, very lazy and easy stereotypes the ex-pat community, who not that long Majorca for almost 20 years, - so you can tell that I am treading on rocky ago were “bloody tourists” themselves. I think that I’m pretty well ground! Some of us find it hilarious when, if they are qualified to make comment Putting aside our high season family working in the hospitality industry, clearly Aon the millions of tourists that ar- groups, we immediately move into a morass don’t understand such words as… self- rive on these shores year-on-year. of very different and sometimes conflicting awareness or hypocrisy. Others, like to turn Unlike many of my friends I don’t groups. Late season ‘Empty Nesters’ are a their noses up at tourists, who shall we say, work within the tourism industry - particular favourite I understand, certainly do not meet some of their social expecta- but, not to have an opinion regard- with restauranteurs, because they are tions! Talking about ‘social expectations,’ ing tourists is mostly well-nye-im- deemed to have more money on-the-hip these will be the people who go for an eve- possible. Indeed, as someone who than harassed and broke mums and dads. ning at some of the islands more upmarket earns a living from writing about What about those ghastly teenagers who quayside locations and then complain bit- what goes on here, it would be like to rip-it-up for a couple of weeks? Local terly about the cost of a gin & tonic. I would rather strange if I didn’t have a view bars can’t get enough of them - but, a bag of also like to point out to you that Majorca, either way. First of all, let’s remind chips and a smothering of curry sauce isn’t along with destinations along the Costa’s ourselves of some basic facts. going to keep chef employed for long now is and other popular locations across the Medi- Majorca, has been for a long time and still it? Then we have the hen & stag market that terranean have in their midst a certain ex- remains the most popular holiday destina- here. This in itself is a complicated process usually appear on the island during the pre- patriate grouping known to all - as, ‘perma- tion in Europe. Full-stop - no way of circum- because as an ex-pat Brit my view of tour- season and if you’re really lucky, you will nent tourists.’ These folk are often retired - venting that statement, so those who organ- ists, might well be very different from - say, find yourself on the same plane flying out- but not always. They inhabit 2nd line bars, ise tourism here, must by definition be do- those who were born and bred here in these bound! Naturally enough, on the way back sometimes in the summer, but particularly ing something right. Indeed, it was the is- islands, or the many people who are em- home to Blighty things are a lot quieter. I’m in the winter months. Our friends have per- land of Majorca that was the initial vehicle ployed on a seasonal basis, who’s views told by those who are in-the-know - that manent tans and wear very little clothing for family holidays ‘abroad’ as far back as the might be very different indeed. Mostly, it over the past few years ‘specialised’ holidays all year round and loathe ordinary tourists - early 1960’s. A lot has changed since those always strikes me that people are either have become very popular, with sporty the very same people they once were until days, the profile of holidaymakers has de- complain that there are too many tourists types and others looking for both activity they decided to make a career of holidaying! veloped in many ways, those traditional on the island - or, as the season drifts to a and fun to enhance their holiday. I suppose I could also take you down the road of try- family holidays that allow two weeks on the close (as it is doing at the moment) panic a huge growth area in terms of tourism has ing to explain why some Majorcans have beach for Mr & Mrs Jones and their 2.4 chil- sets in and the gripes of July and August to be All Inclusive’s - however, these very been noisily protesting about the so called dren are still thriving - but they are no soon disappear. Nevertheless, to ‘lump’ popular holidays are frowned upon from al- ‘saturation’ the island is apparently suffer- longer the only show in town, not by a long tourists into just one amorphous grouping most all other service providers, because of ing at the hands of…? Yep, you’ve guessed it way! is wildly misleading. Putting my prime ex- er, er, their all inclusive nature - funny that! “The tourist your friend.” Hey - believe me, However, today I’d quite like to investigate ample of a holidaying family to one side, It has to be said however, and I am reminded it’s complicated! the various attitudes towards tourists that nowadays we have many differing group- of this on a regular basis by those who know lurk in the minds of those of us who live ings of those who holiday here in Majorca. about these things - traditional beach holi- [email protected] MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 25 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 26 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR MAJORCA - GET ON YOUR BIKE

Majorca is really geared up for all sport- ing activities.

Hire bikes It is both easy and economical to hire bikes. When biking there are always stop off places to refuel and continue and you can always plan your route around the many cafes and restaurants with every- thing from artisan foods, gourmet fine dining and more local traditional Major- can tapas styles restaurants. Along with road biking there is also a complete world of mountain biking with an immense amount of trails - again there are many specialised holidays, guides, tours and bike hires.

Biking competitions and sporting events Not only is the pleasure biking and training amazing here but we also have some great opportunities to take part in events. Here are my favourites: 6Points Challenges are challenging but fun cycle rides to the six extremities of the location - to the four compass ex- tremities (north, south, west and east) and to the highest and lowest points on tarred roads. All of the events are multi- day and riders stay in nice hotels, enjoy coffee, lunch stops and great dinners to- Hiking and gether. The events are tough but are not races and the emphasis is on enjoyment and camaraderie. It takes place in May every year.The charity ride includes around 400 Kilome- biking tres and 6500 meters of climbing. Web: http://sixpointsmallorca.com https://www.strava.com/clubs/six-points

312KM in Majorca The 312 is the longest amateur cycling sportive in Europe. The 312km in length b and over 5000 meters of climbing. The Majorca is a bikers and route starts and ends at the Playa de Muro. There are three different distances: hikers dream turf. 167km, 225km and 312km.

Whether you are a mountain Brevets Mallorca Ultra Cycling - Brevet biker or road biker, hiker, 200 Brevets are non-competitive, long-dis- walker or runner, beginner, tance bicycle rides, with distances from 200 km to 2000 km. You do not have to be intermediate or advanced a member of a organisation to participate in a brevet in Majorca. Majorca has everything for you. Audax Randonneurs Denmark (ARD) is a Danish randonneur organisation, cling, particularly when the approxi- dotted with fishing villages - Son Serra de which is part of the Audax Club Parisien mately four million almond trees on the Marina, , Porto Cristo, Portoco- (ACP), the worldwide cycling organisa- by Katie island are in blossom and lemon and or- lom and the area before you hit Cala Mil- tion, based in France, which administers ange trees are full of fruit. lor. All have great trail routes and sur- and certifies long-distance, non-competi- Handyside The areas around Llucmajor, Es , rounding road biking very different to the tive cycling events. Sóller and are especially pretty. rest of the island. Brevéts here are conducted as a series of The dramatic westerly coast running rides, consisting of a 200 km, 300 km, North is spectacular. The differing sea- Nice climbs 400 km and a 600 km. These rides nor- sons are also incredible contrasting with Nice climbs like San Salvador and Randa, mally take place over a two-month pe- cold crisp days in January and February where the monasteries at the top serve re- riod. t’s no wonder the top pro-cycling but sunshine can still be seen, with beau- freshments and food, are both for the cy- Majorca is one of the only places in teams come here to train - with mini- tiful early sunny mornings and blue skies clist and the rambler. Europe to do this. So, if you want to be mal rainfall and warm wintery days from May to October. The centre of the island fairly flat and part of an international cycling week, this you can enjoy being outside for most Majorca’s topography lends to beauti- home of wine growing - nice for exploring is the place to be. ofI the year. fully rugged mountain terrain with the quieter country lanes and vineyards - You can get more info on rules on this web- Majorca is base camp for the Sky team, breathtaking vistas and mountain ranges, Santa Maria. Santa Eugènia, Binissalem site: https://rusa.org/pages/rulesForRiders Movistar, UAE Team Emirates, Lotto, Sou- scattered with the beautiful quintessen- and . dal, Cofidis, team GB along with many tial traditional villages and stunning ar- Wherever you go there is always an op- Wherever you go there is always other global teams whose pelotons can of- chitecture. portunity to jump on a bike, pop on a pair an opportunity to jump on a bike, ten be spotted on the roads- both profes- The rugged mountainous North west of walking boots or don your running pop on a pair of walking boots or sional and amateur . coast: , Deià, Valldemossa, trainers and explore. Each area of Majorca don your running trainers and ex- Winter and spring in Majorca are won- Sóller, up to Pollença. comprises of a patchwork blanket making plore. derful seasons for both walking and cy- The North East- East coast of the island up different areas to explore. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 27 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 28 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR FOOD AND WINE- THE SOBRASSADA

Croquetas de ✃ sobrasada y miel Food con manchego INGREDIENTS ● 60g flour &Fosh Serves 4 ● 500ml milk ● 130g of sobrasada, ● 2tbsp Parsley, finely at room temperature chopped ● 1tbsp clear honey ● Seasoning by Chef Marc Fosh ● 2 large eggs Marc Fosh is the first and only British Chef to be awarded a For the Bechemel: ● 150g of bread- Michelin Star in Spain. ● 60g of unsalted crumbs (panko if pos- MARC FOSH RESTAURANT is located in Palma’s Convent de la butter sible) Missio where contemporary design, blends seamlessly with ● 2 tbsp olive oil ● 60g seasoned flour traditional features and modern art. The restaurant opened to ● 1 small onion, finely ● 25g of cured man- rave reviews and has quickly become Palma’s premiere culinary chopped chego cheese, finely destination. www.marcfosh.com ● 1 bay leaf grated ● 6 black peppercorns

Bring the milk to the has chilled and set, boil with the bay leaf lightly beat the eggs in and the peppercorns. a shallow bowl. Add Everlasting Remove from the add the breadcrumbs heat and leave to infuse and grated cheese to a for 10 minutes before second bowl, stirring to straining. Then melt combine. Add the sea- the butter and olive oil soned flour to a third in a medium saucepan, shallow bowl. stir in the flour, and Dust your hands with cook over a low heat for some flour and scoop LOVE 3-4 minutes. out a heaped table- When smooth, start spoon of the firm bé- Over recent years, the island’s adding some of the chamel. Roll into a ball strained milk. Stir until then dip into the egg gastronomic scene has smooth, and then add followed by the bread- changed immeasurably. more milk until the crumbs. Repeat until sauce is thickened. all the mixture is Add the sobrasada dipped and rolled, con- and honey and cook for tinuing to dust your Sobrasada & rosemary crusted Pork 10-15 minutes, whisk- hands and the balls ✃ ing regularly until you with flour to prevent with saffron-apple compote have a smooth, thick sticking. Chill for at béchamel sauce. least 20 minutes. INGREDIENTS ●50g breadcrumbs Stir in the chopped In batches of 5 or 6, Cooking time: 1 hour ● Salt & freshly ground parsley, season with shallow fry the cro- Prep time: 40 minutes pepper salt and black pepper quettes in a large frying Serves 4-6 Saffron- Apple compote then transfer to a shal- pan, turning regularly ● 750g loin of pork, Coo low container and until crisp and golden trimmed ● 4 red apples, peeled & cover with a piece of brown. Alternatively, ●60ml olive chopped cling film to prevent a you can heat oil to a small rosemary sprig ●2 large shallots, finely skin forming. Allow to 180C in a large sauce- ● 4 garlic cloves, crushed chopped cool to room tempera- pan or deep fryer and Salt & freshly ground ●2cm piece of fresh gin- ture then chill for a fry for 3–4 minutes. pepper ger, peeled and finely minimum of 4 hours, Drain well on kitchen chopped or overnight. paper and serve piping For the sobrasada & ●1 garlic clove, finely Once the béchamel hot with aioli. rosemary crust: chopped ●60g sobrasada ●2 tbsp olive oil ●1 clove garlic, crushed ●Good pinch saffron ●A sprig of fresh rose- strands mary, finely chopped ●80g sugar ●1/2 tbsp Dijon mustard ●2 tbsp cider vinegar ●2 tbsp olive oil Seasoning

Place all of the ingredients for the crust into a food processor and pulse several times to form a smooth crust. Season with salt & pepper. Heat the oven to 180c. Season the pork loin well with salt and pepper. is still slightly pink in the middle. Remove from the Heat a little oil in a large frying pan and colour the oven, transfer to a rack, and let the pork rest for 10 min- pork on all sides. Transfer the pork to a flat tray with utes before carving. the garlic cloves and rosemary sprigs. Drizzle with ol- Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a gentle flame ive oil and roast in the oven to cook for 20 minutes. Re- and add the chopped shallots, ginger and garlic. Cook move from the oven and cover the top of the pork loin for 2-3 minutes to soften without colouring and add with the sobrasada crust, pushing down with your fin- the saffron, apples, sugar and cider vinegar. Cover with gers to create an even crust. Turn the oven down to a lid and cook gently for 15-20 minutes. Season to taste, 160C and cook for another 20 minutes until the pork mix well and remove from the heat. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 29 FOOD AND WINE- THE SOBRASSADA

must admit that my relationship with Sobrasada wasn’t ex- I actly love at first. In fact I would describe it more as a slow-burn kind of attraction that builds over time. I certainly didn’t have that initial head-over-heels feeling or an instant feeling of pure lust that I’ve sometimes experienced with other in- gredients like truffles, lan- goustines and aged Iberian ham. I may have regarded it as a bit of a relic. An out- dated lump of pork fat fla- voured with paprika that belonged more in a mu- seum than anywhere near my modern, Mediterra- nean recipes and I simply pressed but I’m happy to to so many recipes from somewhat of a renaissance failed to see all its charms. report that I’m a changed “huevos rotos”, Spanish and there has been a revo- The truth is my introduc- man, I’ve finally seen the style clams to ham and lution in the making with tion to sobrasada didn’t get light and I have now suc- chicken croquettes. You the emergence of forward off to a good start. I cumbed to the charms of can stir it into risotto, po- thinking butchers such as watched a local chef place the big, red fatty sausage tato puree and it also Xesc Reina who are adding a large slice into a warm from Majorca. This may makes a wonderful crust new flavour profiles such frying pan and looked on a even develop into true when mixed with bread- as blue cheese or even little mystified as it practi- love! crumbs and herbs for deli- curry to this old, Mallor- cally disappeared into a At the risk of sounding cious roast pork. can classic. large puddle of fat. He then like some sort of crazed The making of sobrasada To many that may sound added a big spoonful of converted zealot…so- goes back to ancient times like sacrilege, but if you honey, gave it stir and brasada is now firmly one and by the 16th century it really want your love to poured it over a slice of my favourite ingredients. was common in most Ma- last…sometimes you just crusty bread. Lets just say It has a wonderful smoki- jorcan households. Re- have to spice things up a that I was far from im- ness and can add its flavour cently its been undergoing little! MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 30 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR GASTRONOMY - MAJORCAN FOOD Quick glance at Majorcan menus Majorca is a little paradise for foodies and wine buffs with many splendid culinary delights, unexplored recipes and outstanding wine. Lechona by Andrew ne of the island’s best roast meats, Othis is suckling pig and a great favour- lent. When served like this you must Valente ite with Majorcans and foreign residents throw all normal table etiquette out of and visitors. The best roast suckling pigs the nearest window and eat the rabbit are done in traditional Majorcan wood- with your fingers. That’s what any Major- fired brick ovens. They are slowly roasted can would do. Chargrilled rabbit is served ost visitors to Majorca these until very tender, the skin crisp and brit- with a side dish of garlic mayonnaise, days realise there’s much tle. Usually served with a plain en- called alioli in Mallorquín. more to the island than sim- dive salad and the small M ply sun, sea and sand. The roasted or sautéd Major- beauties of the small coastal and interior can potatoes called Lengua con villages and the spectacular rocky land patató. It’s a most and seascapes of the rugged Tramuntana filling dish so alcaparras coast are there for all to see and enjoy. have a light nother true Ma- But even today thousands of visitors starter. In res- Ajorcan dish you spend a couple of weeks on the island taurants spe- shouldn’t miss. It is without trying two of the delights Ma- cialising in slices of tongue (ox, jorca offers in abundance: good native Spanish re- lamb or pig) gently food and memorable local wines. gional food the stewed with capers Majorca is a little paradise for foodies suckling in of- until very tender. The and wine buffs with many splendid culi- ten a cochinillo combination of nary delights, unexplored recipes and — a younger and tongue with capers is Callos outstanding wines you have never heard smaller pig and, an inspired one, making his is tripe as you’ve never tasted it of. Yet year after year some visitors miss therefore, more ex- this dish a very special con- Tbefore in England. It is cooked in the out on these island goodies. pensive. tribution to Spanish regional traditional French style and is eaten on One of the reason visitors go home cooking. Connoisseurs consider its own with a plentiful supply of Major- without trying local gastronomic delights Majorcan capers to be the world’s best and can country bread at hand to mop up the is they don’t know they exist. So to en- Cordero al horno it’s a good idea to take a couple of jars back juices. It often contains ham and other sure you try some of the Majorcan speci- oast lamb, another dish which Major- with you. The smallest capers are the best charcuterie as well as onions, tomatoes, alities that are out there, here is a quick Rcan cooks do very well. It can be leg or — and the most expensive. garlic and herbs, so it is extremely fla- glance at some of the local dishes you’ll shoulder (Majorcans prefer the shoulder vourful. You will sometimes see it served see on Majorcan menus. and it is more expensive at the market) with chickpeas, when it is called callos and the best ones are done in a wood-fired Albondigas con garbanzos. A normal restaurant serv- oven. Usually served very tender, the n old favourite that crops up in cuisi- ing is enough for four as a small starter. meat literally falling off the bone when Anes all over the world: meatballs. The nudged with a fork. Majorcan lamb chops Majorcan kind are herby and tasty and (chuletas de cordero) are also worth try- you will sometimes come across them in Frito Mallorquín ing although they’re more of a tasty mor- tapas bars. Restaurant often do them with nother of Majorca’s great emblem- sel rather than a filling dish. potatoes and vegetables cooked together Aatic dishes, a succulent pan-fried in an earthenware dish. mixture of chopped potatoes, onions, spring onions, tomatoes, red peppers and Conejo con cebolla the lights of lamb or suckling pig. It is ieces of rabbit slowly sautéd with lots Bollit usually flavoured with fresh fennel, a Pof sliced onions until the rabbit is very very region of Spain, as well as most plant that grows wild all over the island. tender and the onions meltingly soft. Ecountries throughout Europe, has a Eat it with Majorcan country bread and a When properly done it’s one of the tasti- hot-pot dish, which in Spain is called co- local red wine, either as a mid-morning est dishes you’ll find on any Majorcan cido. In Majorca it goes under the name of snack or a starter for lunch. A normal res- menu. It is usually served on its own, bollit and contains meat, poultry, char- taurant portion is ideal for sharing be- without potatoes, rice or salad — but be cuterie, potatoes and vegetables cooked in tween four as a tapa. sure to eat it with lots of Majorcan coun- a flavourful stock. The stock is drained off, try bread. Majorcans are very fond of rab- small pasta is added and it is served as a bit and you’ll come across it in paella and soup. The other ingredients are served Frito marinero other rice dishes such as arròs brut. Some separately as a mains. Not an easy dish to variation of the above dish that is a restaurants do it roasted in the oven or find on local menus, but worth trying Aspeciality in coastal towns and vil- chargrilled, when it is especially succu- when you come across it. lages. Instead of using lamb or suckling MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 31 GASTRONOMY - MAJORCAN FOOD

Berenjenas rellenas or many people, aubergines (berenje- Fnas) are their favourite Mediterranean veggie. Majorca is a good place to eat au- bergines because they are the best I have ever tasted: sweet and with a pulpy flesh that never fails to please. Majorcans adore the stock. The dish then becomes sopes food at its delicious best and ideal for shar- aubergines and a favourite way of eating mallorquines, a moist mound of bread, ing. them is ‘rellena’ — stuffed with minced vegetables and meat. Absolutely delicious meat, covered with a tomato sauce and when freshly made — and if there are any baked in the oven. leftovers they can be reheated most suc- Arròs brut Some fish restaurants stuff them with cessfully. n the English language section of the fish or shellfish and anoint them with a Omenu this is usually translated as béchamel sauce. Either way they are ‘dirty rice’, which can be a bit off-putting delish. Look out for alcachofas rellenas Tumbet unless you know it’s a kind of thickish cas- (stuffed artichokes) and calabacines relle- et another Majorcan contribution to serole containing chicken, rabbit, pork nos (stuffed courgettes), two other Major- YSpanish regional cooking, it is the is- vegetables and rice. An authentic version can specialities that should be on your list land’s variation on a theme you find should be made with game of some kind of dishes to try. throughout the Mediterranean: a mixture which gives the dish a darkish or ’dirty’ of potatoes, red or green peppers, colour. In Mallorquín brut pig lights, the recipe calls for chopped fish aubergines and tomatoes. It’s means dirty. This dish is a Setas and shellfish such as prawns, mussels and somewhat similar to the speciality of Sa Pobla his is the generic term for wild mush- squid or cuttlefish. A colourful dish that Provençal ratatouille or where they grow rice Trooms and you will see it on restau- pleases the eye and the palate. the pisto of La Mancha, that is similar to the rant menus from the start of autumn to but at the same time Italian risotto rices the end of winter. All kinds of wild mush- it’s quite different in that it is able to rooms (and there’s a big choice) are at Sopes Mallorquines and with a personal- absorb extra liquid their most memorable when simply nother of the island’s great speciali- ity all of its own. without bursting, grilled or pan-fried, sprinkled with finely Aties. Although it usually appears in Served as a starter so it is ideal for a chopped garlic and parsley and served as a the soups section of a menu, it is not a and sometimes as a dish like arròs starter. Sometimes they become a main soup. It does start off as a soup, usually mains when com- brut. It comes to course when served with slices of pork containing lots of vegetables and some- bined with slices of the table in a Major- loin or pork fillet. They are also very spe- times diced pork and local charcuterie. pan-fried loin of pork. can earthenware pot cial when served with Majorcan black When the ingredients are cooked, wafer- Ask the waiter to serve a and a portion for two puddings called botifarrones. You will also thin slices of Majorcan brown country are portion with a couple of will usually be enough for comes across them in rice dishes and slipped in until they completely absorb lightly fried eggs on top: rustic four, even as a mains. stirred into scrambled eggs. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN 32 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR A TASTE OF THE BALEARICS Pa amb oli and Llonguets n an interview with a Palma newspaper a few years ago, original Majorcan fast food I Tomeu Caldentey, the first Majorcan-born cook to get a Michelin star, was asked if he ever ate fast food. The journalist makes its own bread. posing the question obvi- The Majorcan ‘pa mo- ously expected the Mich- reno’ is a darkish bread elin cook to pour disdain with a close grain that is on fast food. ideal for soaking up the Instead, Tomeu replied: juices and pulp of the to- “Of course I do. Every time mato and the olive oil. I have a pa amb oli I’m eat- One of the reasons for ing fast food.” Spaniards, making pa amb oli in the like many other people, old days was to make stale are inclined to think fast bread more palatable. food is a synonym for junk Allow two slices of bread food. It is not and never per person and put them has been. on a large plate. A pa amb oli is the most We are now ready to rub basic of the island’s culi- the slices of bread with nary delights. It could halves of the ‘ramellet’ to- hardly be simpler: slices of mato which is soft and country bread are rubbed pulpy and ideal for rub- with the soft ramellet to- bing on bread. You can mato, drizzled with virgen buy them loose or in clus- extra olive oil and topped ters on a string. with slices of cheese or Cut the tomato in half Iberian cured ham. through the stalk end, They should be served squeeze one piece over with Majorcan bitter the slice of bread and rub green olives called ‘tren- it into the surface. Press cades’ and the black ones down on the bread so that called ‘panssides’. A glass you leave behind as much of robust red wine is the juice and pulp as possible. perfect drink with ‘pa amb If one half of tomato isn’t oli’, but white is most ac- enough to impregnate the ceptable as is a glass of cold bread with juices and beer. pulp, use part of another You will find ‘pa amb oli’ half. Repeat with the in bars, restaurants and other slices of bread. producing Flor de Sal, the the surface with tinned cafeterias all over the is- You now drizzle the sur- purest and finest of all sea anchovies or dot it with land and there are even face with virgen extra ol- salts, for centuries. It is little clumps of canned places called ‘pambolerías’ ive oil. The amount you harvested entirely by tuna. A few capers add a that serve nothing but ‘pa use is entirely a matter of hand, and dried in the Ma- nice tangy touch, but amb oli’ with various personal taste, but you jorcan sun. don’t be heavy-handed kinds of toppings. don’t want to overdo it or This is the basic pamboli with them. You can easily do a very your ‘pa amb oli’ will be that can be eaten as a Another authentic de- good ‘pa amb oli’ at home messy to eat, You must snack with the olives light is the Llonguet, a — even in England if you use virgen extra olive oil. mentioned earlier. small oval, crunchy bread use a country wholemeal You really notice the taste However, when it is roll easily recognisable by loaf with a close-textured of the oil in simple dishes, served as a luncheon or the deep crack in the mid- crumb. so the better the oil, the supper dish the addition dle. The success of a pa amb better the pa amb oli. of protein is called for. The The llonguet is native to oli doesn’t depend on any Once the oil is on the two favourite toppings, Palma and locals enjoy special culinary tech- bread you can spread it which you will come them for breakfast, lunch niques and even complete evenly over the surface across in bars and restau- and merienda (snack). beginners can make a good with a spent tomato half. rants, are slices of Iberian Stuffed with sobrasada one. But, as with all simple Add salt to taste and your cured ham or cheese, pref- (a type of raw, cured Ma- food, the ingredients must pamboli is ready. erably a Majorcan one or a jorcan sausage), ham and be of the highest quality. A high quality natural Mahón cheese from Mi- cheese, mackerel or octo- In Majorca you should salt to use is the Flor de norca. pus, the llonguet is one of get the loaf known as ‘pa Sal from the salt flats of Es Another successful top- the simplest and most pagès’ or ‘pa moreno’, ide- Trenc in the south east of ping is a plain omelette. unique culinary bites in ally from a bakery that Majorca. They have been You can also criss-cross Palma.