T4⎮TORONTO STAR SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2016 ON ON9 >> TRAVEL Snuba diving delivers best of two worlds

Marriage of , scuba feels secure with raft above

JENN SMITH NELSON SPECIAL TO THE STAR GROS ISLET, SAINT LUCIA—“I’m not go- ing if there’s fish,” states my eldest son Finn. “I’m not doing it if I have to go underwater,” declares Zevin, my youngest. Back and forth, feeding off one an- other, they battle me with fearful ex- cuses to opt out of one of the most exciting adventures we have planned for our trip to Saint Lucia. To be honest, it’s a bit unexpected to think there’d be any trouble convinc- ing either of my usually adventurous sons to try snuba diving, a cross be- tween snorkeling and scuba. Though elated to finally be at our destination — it has been a long trek to the from the Canadian prairies — scraps that began on the plane for the best vantage point of St. Lucia’s famous Pitons mountains continue on land. Beyond fatigue, what’s really driv- ing the boys’ push back is the in- credible blue water and beachfront, drawing them away from dinner. So, with the promise of afternoon beach dips and pool playtime, they agree to SAINT LUCIA TOURISM BOARD give it a go. Snuba divers off Pigeon Island National Park, a 17.8-hectare wildlife preserve, may see eels, box crab, jack fish and sea urchins. Snuba is found within Saint Lucia’s national landmark, Pigeon Island National Park, a 17.8-hectare wildlife preserve in the town of Gros Islet. Easier than , with less bulky gear, divers can quickly accli- mate and go down to depths of six metres. Regulators connected via long tubes to an above-water raft enable divers to breathe comfortably and come up above water as a guide pulls JENN SMITH NELSON the raft gently along to enable a tour Zevin searches for shells in the of the depths. after snuba diving. There’s no need for certification and divers can stay underwater lon- utes, we learn to trust our regulators ger than they can while snorkelling and head out into deeper water. — making it a great option for kids. Once underwater, it is peaceful and Without even a hint of reluctance, effortless. The three of us are en- we depart the next morning for Pi- tranced. geon Island, mere minutes from our The boys transform together, tak- OFFYOUGO hotel. ing to it like fish to water — excitedly Corine Paul, a guide for five years pointing every few seconds at ma- with Cox. and Co., calls us over for a rine life. Angelfish spots an eel and snuba adventure orientation. though we cannot touch it, she TO “Call me CocoPuff,” she says to the brings it up for close inspection. group. Zevin, 7, isn’t yet a strong swimmer CUBA! “Everyone here has an underwater so Angelfish encourages him to stay name,” she says before going over close to the raft during a moment some rules. above the surface. “Eyes on the “First, breathe continuously. Se- guide,” she reminds him. condly, don’t hold your breath. Fol- During the 25-minute excursion, low the guide’s lead at all times and he ventures around the raft, even never take off your regulator, or taking short spurts downward with www.holasunholidays.ca touch anything.” confidence and flashing a reciprocal These all seem like pretty impor- thumbs-up sign whenever our eyes tant points but it’s unclear if my sons meet. have absorbed an ounce of informa- We swim along into even clearer Cayo Coco ALL INCLUSIVE Varadero ALL INCLUSIVE tion, as they fumble with their flip- waters to find a school of jack, some SolCayoGuillermo#### MeliaMarinaVaradero##### pers. spiny black sea urchins and a box January4•7nights January7•7nights Our guide, “Angelfish” (Hardasher crab. Agdomer), gets us suited up in har- A quick look behind me on our way nesses, regulators, belts and in reveals Finn taking on an odd fish- fins; then leads us into the warm like stroke — part octopus, part mer- water to practise . man. The one who was once so SAVE $340 SAVE $300 “Usually the most difficult part for scared fish might touch him, fully people is regulating the transition living up to his (given) underwater $588 $968 from breathing through their nose to name. FREE TOUR +$210 taxes&fees FREE TOUR +$210 taxes & fees their mouth,” says Angelfish. Jenn Smith Nelson was hosted by the Though nervous, the boys are lis- Saint Lucia Tourism Board, which didn’t tening and eager. After a few min- review or approve this article. Cayo Santa Maria ALL INCLUSIVE Varadero ALL INCLUSIVE Melia Las Dunas ####+ Paradisus Princesa Del Mar > WHEN YOU GO January6•7nights Resort&Spa##### January7•7nights Do this trip: Learn to snuba with not as busy. Rain showers are Cox and Co.’s snuba adventure generally short and sporadic. program (coxcoltd.com). Visitors High season is mid-December to to Pigeon Island National Park can mid-April. SAVE $310 SAVE $300 book onsite but weekend bookings Stay: are required in advance. Reserva- á The Landings Resort and Spa $808 $1348 tions can be booked through many (landingsstlucia.com) +$210 taxes&fees FREE TOUR +$210 taxes & fees resorts and includes park entrance, á St. James’s Club Morgan Bay water access and taxi. (morganbayresort.com) Go: Saint Lucia is hot and humid Get around: You’ll need a taxi to Cayo Largo ALL INCLUSIVE Holguin ALL INCLUSIVE nearly year-round, with tempera- get around. Most taxi companies #### tures averaging 27 C. Low season offer a set rate for full or half-day SolCayoLargo Sol Rio de Luna y (June to November) is a great time excursions. January7•7nights Resort #### to visit, as it’s less expensive and Do your research: stlucia.org January 9 • 7 nights

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JENN SMITH NELSON SPECIAL TO THE STAR SAINT LUCIA—Once you’ve learned to snuba in the tourist zone near Cas- tries at the north end of the island, a trip southwest toward Soufrière, the island’s mountainous area and home to the Pitons, is in order. You’ll find a multitude of attractions for all ages.

Zip lining in Babonneau: Weave deep into the heart of Saint SAINT LUCIA TOURISM BOARD JENN SMITH NELSON FOR THE TORONTO STAR Lucia’s dense rainforest on a zip-line A hike on Pigeon Island leads to stunning coastal views. Guide Junior Beausoleil prepares Finn to zoom along a zip line. course. The tour guides with Rainfor- est Adventures are efficient and will take you through eight zips, with the longest being 112 metres, and one obstacle course, for $65 (U.S.) per person. You’ll learn about local forest and plant life along the way, such as donkey eye — a species of Mucuna bean used to make local arts and crafts.

Get muddy at Sulphur Springs: The smell of sulphur fills the air as Jungle biking guide Tyson St. Cyr Zevin and Finn share a brotherly At Sulphur Springs, visitors can Guests of the Landings Resort and you near Saint Lucia’s hottest area, offers up “jungle skittles.” moment at the Diamond Waterfall. indulge in a mud bath. Spa can eat right on the beach. geo-thermally speaking. Sulphur Springs is the world’s only drive- Once outfitted on a mountain bike, (a.k.a. lobster claws). villages and offers magnificent views music blasting from floating refresh- through volcano, where you can tour take a guided tour on trails that go Make your way to the Diamond and vantage points from both sides ment boats. When the conch shell alongside craters to see bubbling through 18th-century French-Colonial Waterfall, where natural minerals of the island. Stop at a working or- blows, it’s time to “come and get your mud pools, hot springs, fumaroles ruins. have created a colourful surrounding ganic farm to learn about horticulture coconut and rum,” as a local says. (steam vents) and sulphur streams. Try a yellow cocoa pod or “jungle rock face. Keep your eyes open for practices, indigenous plants and a The park entrance fee is $5. Stop just past the springs to slide into skittle” while you hear about other birds, such as bullfinches, as they flit multitude of fruits and nuts that grow a hot pool full of volcanic minerals organic fruits grown here, and enjoy in and out of the gardens. Admission on the island in droves, such as man- Lap of luxury: and slather yourself with a do-it- the sights of flora such as ginger lilies is $7 for adults, children get in for half goes, pineapples and more. Fancy a view of sparkling coastline yourself body smoothie made of and wild orchids. Tours last 30 to 40 price. and Pigeon Island National Park? mud. Tours are $8.80 per person and minutes and cost $55. Explore and hike Pigeon Island: Landings Resort and Spa has it, plus tours with mud baths are $12.10. Tet Paul and the best view of the After you go snuba diving, take a private plunge pools and hands-off Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens: Pitons: 10-minute hike to the fort along a butler service if you get an ocean- Jungle biking: If you can’t get enough of the island’s A 45-minute, $10 guided tour of Tet paved path beside the ruins on Pi- view suite. The water is clear and it’s The sweet smell of mangoes (57 tropical feel, the botanical gardens Paul Nature Trail is the only spot on geon Island. If you are up for a steep- easy to spot marine life, so grab varieties are grown here) fills the are the place to be. Wander 2.4 hect- the island where you can get between er climb and want to take in an even snorkels and hit the sea. forested area of Anse Mamin, a ares of lush walkways lined with its famous landmarks, the Pitons better view, continue 20 more min- Jenn Smith Nelson was a guest of Saint 242.8-hectare estate and former diverse tropical flowers and plants, (Gros and Petit Piton). Visitors walk a utes up to the signal tower. Later, chill Lucia Tourism Board, which didn’t re- sugar-cane plantation. such as hibiscus and heliconias winding expanse that overlooks out beachside and enjoy reggae view or approve this story.