Exploring the tastes of mountains GASTRO-ROUTE , Mojkovac, Kolašin, Žabljak i IMPRESSUM WELCOME TO THE GASTRO-ROUTE MOUNTAIN BOUNTY!

This Guidebook has been developed in the We will take you along the paths of taste and aroma of traditional mountain food and products, frame of the FAO/EBRD Cooperation in Mon- with families that still preserve old recipes that they transfer from generation to generation and tenegro, more specifically the project on who will be pleased to share with you the art of preparing these specialties. This route connects ”Promoting sustainable agrifood value chains the north of Montenegro, and takes you through three fantastic national parks – Biogradska through linkages with tourism” in collabora- Gora, Prokletije and Durmitor. The specific biodiversity of the area and skilled hands of the rural tion with Ministry of Tourism and Sustainable Development and Ministry of Agriculture and women have given a mark to the gastronomy of the area and you will see it for yourself. Rural Development, with the contribution of Regional Development Agency for , This food that you will try as well as typical mountain products from our farms will not be easily Komovi and Prokletije. found in other parts of Montenegro. We recommend that you try it all at the place of origin, where you can see the path of a product with your own eyes – from meadow, orchard or plow- Team coordinator: Ivan Mališić land to the table. We have made the effort to select families specific by the variety of products Text: Jelena Krivčević as well as by their location, so that during your trip you will not only enjoy superb food, but also Design: Jovan Nikolić see some of the most beautiful landscapes in Montenegro. If you are a gourmet, you can take Printing: Art Grafika Nikšić this complete route or you can combine it with another route that you intend to visit – Via Dinar- Circulation: 2000 copies ica, Peaks of the Balkans, panoramic routes or any other activity in this area. Keep in mind that Published in: 2020. households are not the same as restaurants and you need to announce your arrival to them in order for the hosts to plan your stay and fit it with their other responsibilities. And if you care to try some of the traditional dishes at one of our hotels or restaurants, then you should know that IMPLEMENTING PARTNER: DONORS: PARTNERS IN THE PROJECT: a number of them have undergone training to prepare traditional dishes, and the list of these restaurants is at the end of this text.

MINISTARSTVO POLJOPRIVREDE MINISTARSTVO ODRŽIVOG Now let’s introduce you to our rural households, who are part of this route! I RURALNOG RAZVOJA CG RAZVOJA I TURIZMA CG

Bij elo P o l je Household Ćatović Ćatović family is located in the village of Kukulje, and the road to the village is a lit- tle complicated, so we recommend that you follow the map. You will not regret it when you arrive, we guarantee it. You will find yourself at the top of a hill, from where you can view the entire Lim valley like it is on your palm, and across the road you will see the Pester plateau. The Ćatović estate itself is again something you will not re- gret visiting and having climbed that high. They grow almost everything. There are several buildings on their property, some traditional, some more recent, but all nicely blended into one color- ful unit where each corner has its own purpose. Suad is a good craftsman, he does all the work himself and Safeta on the other hand is a great host. No wonder she is famous at the market in Bijelo Polje - everyone knows her and everyone is happy to buy her products. She learned to cook very old dishes from older women in the family, so there you can eat food that is rarely found elsewhere. We recommend you to try - potoplika, buck- wheat pie, pumpkin soup, juices, preserved fruits and jams. They also of-

VILLAGE KUKULJE Coordinates: 8FMX3PPJ+HX Phone: +382 69 885 232 E-mail: [email protected] fer accommodation.

montegastro.me | 7 Bij elo P o l je Household Đalović Đalović household is located in the village Vlah, above the famous Bis- trica river and the entire property faces the Đalović gorge, which hides the famous cave, the largest and most mysterious in the whole of Mon- tenegro. Đalovićs are a traditional, warm family, hardworking people and their youngest family members have their assignments as well. They are great students with all the highest grades in school. We think that they will be great people as well as their parents. This property is one of the most organized on this route. Not in the sense of any luxury, but one can immediately feel the effort and time put into making everything in place and every corner to be designed and maintained. They grow everything, literally anything that can be grown in Montenegro. They buy oil, flour, sugar and coffee, and they make everything else themselves. And when you see this village, it will be clear to you that everything produced here is of high quality, clean and unpolluted, and that it is a real privilege to live in a household that could easily be cut off from the world without even noticing. Đalovićs are great hosts, they know the history of this area and their family, so they will share with you beautiful stories that will bring you closer to the culture and tradition of this place. And when it comes to food, we don’t even know what to recommend because everything we tried was great. It was not only good quality of the food, but the smiling faces who serve that food and simply an atmosphere in this family. You

VILLAGE VLAH Coordinates: 8FMX3R3F+V8 Phone: +382 68 858 610 E-mail: [email protected] will be happy to share at least one day with them.

montegastro.me | 9 Bij elo P o l je Household Pešić

Pesic family lives in Tomasevo and they are one of the few examples of a family who moved from the city to the village and started agricultural ac- tivity from scratch. They have the cattle as well, about forty of them that must be worked on every day. Everything on the property is subordinated to livestock, because that’s the way it should be, that’s why you’ll come across mud, fertilizer, and hay - because that’s how a 40-cows property looks like. There is so much cattle to look out for, but it is not difficult for Pesici because there is a total of 13 members of the family, nine of them are children and they are a real manpower. Milijanka will seem small and weak, but you will quickly see that it is not true. A hardworking and smiling woman who literally handles everything and never complains be- cause she seems completely happy with her family, her job and her life. You will feel some of that happiness in her dishes, and she is a true master in the kitchen. She is one of those women who make a feast easily, that you don’t even notice when she did it. Their specialty is vraneski cheese, and rolled cheese filled with sour cream. That cheese has been requested from many sides and she can never make enough of it. They also have bees and honey, experts say it’s great. They do not have accommodation yet, but have plans to make it as part of their offer in the future. They are located near Novakovic Cave on the old road from Bijelo Polje to Pljevlja,

VILLAGE TOMAŠEVO Coordinates: 8FMX3JPH+XW Phone: +382 69 665 217 E-mail: [email protected] on a panoramic route and it is a great spot for lunch or tasting products.

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K ol aš in Household Dulović

The Dulovic family spends every summer in Gornje Lipovo, on the slopes of Sin- jajevina mountain, where they have a large estate and a house that is over 100 years old. For their own sake, but also for the guests who visit them in the summer, they grow everything they need. But their main activity is the production of foliated cheese from Kolašin, a product with a geographical indication of origin, since it is prepared exclusively in Kolašin area and nowhere else. Gordana, your hostess, also prepares a full range of traditional food from her farm. She or any of her household members will take you to pick wild blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, depending on the season and you will surely find mushrooms. In addition to enjoying top quality home-cooked meals, there are also places for hiking, mountains that you will see all around you. In addition to the food, this household offers accommodation services, so you can stay here and explore the whole area of Lipovo (one of the most beautiful villages in Montenegro) and the mountains of Sinjajevina. VILLAGE LIPOVO Coordinates: 8FJXV9MV+QV Phone: +382 69 561 156 E-mail: [email protected]

montegastro.me | 15 K ol aš in Household Bulatović

Bulatovic family lives in the village of Tre- baljevo, widely known for its good quali- ty potatoes. There is no family in this vil- lage that does not grow potatoes and you will notice by the main road many villagers who sell their products. Of course, Bulatović family also grows po- tatoes, but they also produce various other fruits and vegetables. Potatoes are the backbone of mountain cuisine, in addition to cheese and corn flour. Espe- cially when the potatoes are good quality, baked in the skin in the simplest way, they are full of flavor and can be the perfect meal. But sure- ly you will not only eat potatoes. Bulatovic family has the various local food to offer, you will see for yourself. And they also offer accommoda- tion, so from here you can get to Bjelasica, to National Park, to Sinjajevina in an hour. The place is close to the highway, so, if an- nounced in advance, you can only come for a homemade lunch or dinner. VILLAGE TREBALJEVO Coordinates: 8FJXVGGP+JW Phone: +382 69 524 515 E-mail: [email protected]

montegastro.me | 17 M ojk ov a c Household Vukadinović

Vukadinovic’s farm is located quite high on the mountain, even unusually high, given how quickly they reach the center of Mojkovac. Their property is in an area called the Battle- field, a famous place where the famous Mo- jkovac battle took place during the First World War. It was a battle won by the Montenegrin army over a superior Austrian army, a battle in which almost every family living in this area had at least one representative. This place is important to Montenegrins. The foreigners will enjoy it because it is high and the view extends to all the mountain peaks in the area. Vu- kadinović family grows certified organic fruit and makes juices with no additives. If you come in August or September, you can also participate in fruit harvesting and juice making. But even if you do not come then, you will have something else to enjoy on this property - an ingle, the view, opportunities for hiking and biking, and homemade food served by your hosts, along with their ultimate juice that you will fall in love with. You can

VILLAGE Coordinates: 8FJXXH9W+RF Phone: +382 67 438 678 E-mail: [email protected] also stay with them, in a large or small log cabin, where you prefer.

montegastro.me | 19 M ojk ov a c Household Vuković

The Vukovic family lives in the village of Stitarica, which is located near the Kola- sin-Mojkovac highway, hidden behind the rocks so you cannot notice that there is anything behind it. And there is this beautiful village, in the valley of the Shtitaricka river, just below the slopes of Sinjajevina. Vesa and her husband, like most families in rural areas, grow most of their food. In addition, they often spend time on the mountain, on a katun and there Vesa picks herbs and mushrooms that she is famous for in the village because where no one will find a mushroom, Vesa will. She also prepares them very well, which is not common in this area. It is very rare for anyone here to use mushrooms in the kitchen at all. Therefore, if you want to eat perfectly prepared porcini mushroom or chanterelle, get on your feet and go to Vukovics. If you are a good guest, maybe Vesa will tell you a secret on how she always finds mushrooms! If you don’t like mushrooms, don’t worry, Vesa cooks everything and is a great hostess,

VILLAGE ŠTITARICA Coordinates: 8FJXWGHR+CM Phone: +382 67 600 958 E-mail: [email protected] no one will go hungry out of her house.

montegastro.me | 21 M ojk ov a c Household Tomović

Tomovic family lives in the village of Podbisce, in Mojkovac, below the Kolasin-Mojkovac highway. They are lower in a valley where you will neither see nor hear the highway. They have a large estate and they grow al- most everything - fruits, vegetables, corn, and they also have cows and make their own cheese. The whole family is engaged in the household, they are serious farmers and they make most of their family’s income this way. The production capacity is higher than the average farm in this area. Boris, his wife and their four daughters will be perfect hosts. Not only do they prepare good food, but you will recognize what a real, hectic farm looks like, where everyone has a duty, where no one is late because they must not be late, where every- thing is subordinated to agriculture and its cycles. Here, we recommend that you try some torshi that is prepared in this household, whether it’s sour vegetable or fruits and their juices, jams and preserved fruits. Their property is on the flat land, they will serve you in the garden, so you will enjoy both - the food and the view. VILLAGE PODBIŠĆE Coordinates: 8FJXXH2G+32 Phone: +382 69 561 156 E-mail: [email protected]

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P lje vl ja Household Ćirović

Ćirović family lives in the village of Odžak, near Pljevlja, the northernmost town in Montenegro. Their property is large and picturesque. They are seriously into agriculture and they are produc- ing almost everything. What is specific about this family is that even though they are very busy with various agri- cultural activities, their property is neat and in order. A special charm to the property gives the old, traditional mill in which one part still grinds flour in an old fashioned way - on stone, and another part is arranged to welcome guests. You will rarely have the opportunity to eat a meal made of freshly ground grain, and when you try it you will realize the difference. The stream goes through the whole property, so ducks have settled in it. It often happens that ducks and cows are in conflict, because both perceive this as their own territory. However, there is a real democracy in this household and everyone has its own corner, everyone has a place to be and everyone is comfortable - the hosts are taking care of that. VILLAGE ODŽAK Coordinates: 8FMX7997+75 Phone: +382 67 814 375 E-mail: [email protected]

montegastro.me | 27 P lje vl ja Household Kušljević Kusljevic is another very hard working family, especially in the summer. They are farmers and cows require a lot of work in the summer as well as during winter. It is harder during summer because there are also gardens to be taken care of, grass needs to be mowed and hay has to be prepared for the winter. There are also cows that produce much more milk during summer, so more cheese needs to be pre- pared. Cheese is top notch here, no wonder that Plje- vlja cheese is a brand in Montenegro and one of the first products to be given a geographical indication of origin. Dusko’s wife, Milojka, is a true master of pljevaljski cheese, an energetic and hardworking woman who now heads the pljevaljski cheese producers’ association. They spend their summers in the village of Lađana, it is to them like a katun where they have a large estate and cows have a lot of space and freedom and top quality grass. That is why they are so active during summer and give a lot of milk. In addition to the cheese, Milojka is a master of various traditional dishes, feel free to let her choose the meals for you and you will not make mistake at all. Milojka knows how to sew, she thought she would be a seamstress, but she proved to be excellent in many other fields, she is

VILLAGE LAĐANE Coordinates: 8FMX88R9+RV Phone: +382 67 367 078 E-mail: [email protected] certainly a great hostess.

montegastro.me | 29 P lje vl ja Household Popović

Popovic family is spending their summers on their property in the village of Hoćevina, on the slopes of mountain Ljubišnja. It is the fa- mous mountain in Pljevlja and even though it is still undiscovered to many Montenegrins, people of Pljevlja are fascinated by its beauty. That is why we strongly recommend that you vis- it this household. From here you can easily explore Ljubišnja and the canyon of the river and Durmitor is not far away. Popovic family will greet you well - with rakija which Blazo will take care of, and his wife will enchant you with culinary skills and kindness. In Hoćevina they have plowland and greenhouses and al- most everything they use in the kitchen is made by themselves, except for the dairy products but they buy that from their neighbors. If Blazo is in the mood, he will show you that he is also a great cook, though his special- ty is cooking outside – sač, talandara and cauldron. No wonder, because Blazo is a true adventurer, he has been everywhere – either hiking or by 4wd, and he has learned to cope nicely in the wilderness and without the benefits of civilization. He will also be a good guide if you want to explore the environment. Popovic family offers accommodation, so you can stay there for a few days and you won’t be bored. VILLAGE HOĆEVINA Coordinates: 8FMX86FP+G8 Phone: +382 68 883 181 E-mail: [email protected]

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Ž ab lja k Household Kaljević

Kaljevic family is waiting for you in the village of Podgora, at the very begin- ning of the national park, halfway be- tween Durmitor and Tara, two of Mon- tenegro’s most magnificent pearls of nature. Podgora means a village under a mountain surrounded by forest and it re- ally is. You should plan to stay longer here because you have so much to see. Podgora was a katun once and now it is a permanent settlement. Kaljevic family has a large proper- ty here and they spend every summer in Podgora. They grow almost everything, for their own needs and for their guests. Of course, as tradition requires, Pajo will first offer you with rakija, and his wife will knock you off your feet with food. Don’t miss to try her famous nettle broth! Kaljevics also offer accommodation. They are excellent and friendly hosts who will not consider you as a guest but as a family mem- ber, again - in accordance with the Montenegrin tradition that the guest is a family. Pajo’s wife and his sister are great knitters and embroiderers, so you can buy some of their typical handmade souvenirs. VILLAGE PODGORA Coordinates: 8FMX54VV+V4 Phone: +382 69 264 201 E-mail: [email protected]

montegastro.me | 35 Ž ab lja k Household Pavićević

The Pavicevic family will surely knock you off your feet. You will witness there what the true and hard work means – whether it is out on the fields where they grow almost everything, includ- ing certified organic grain and as many as 11 organic products or raising livestock - this family has cows and produces cheese and kajmak. Their hard work does not mean that you will not be greeted with a smile – they are always happy to meet their guest and you will see it for yourself. Vera cooks like every true woman from the mountain – plen- tiful and traditional home-cooked meals and she will constantly offer more! Once, she even managed to prepare kacamak for 100 person. She handles everything on time and is always cheerful and smiling. Make sure that you try her “a meter” cheese, a specialty from Durmitor that almost no one else prepares anymore. And one more thing - they will serve you a meal in the meadow with a direct view on Durmitor

VILLAGE KOVAČICA Coordinates: 8FMX546Q+4R Phone: +382 67 578 736 E-mail: [email protected] and if that does not open your appetite than nothing will.

montegastro.me | 37 Ž ab lja k Household Stevović

Stevovic family traveled the world and for one period of time they lived in Italy where Zoran worked as the main chef at the Embassy of former Yugoslavia, serving diplomats and important guests from around the world. But his wish was to return to his origin in Za- bljak and to settle there with his family, on the land of his ancestors. So he did it. Now you can enjoy his and his wife’s specialties, and you don’t have to be a diplomat! Stevovic family makes all kinds of cheeses, adding aromatic herbs to it, constantly looking for the best recipe. You won’t find so many types of cheeses elsewhere, so if you’re a cheese lover, don’t miss visiting this household! The kitchen here is traditional but since Zoran is a professional chef, and his wife is not worse in cooking than him, they can prepare any meal that comes to your mind. Zoran especially likes to cook outside in a cauldron, directly over the fire. They also offer accommoda- tion, which, after their meals will surely come in handy. So you can get

VILLAGE TMAJEVCI Coordinates: 8FMX546Q+3W Phone: +382 69 171 764 E-mail: [email protected] rest and start all over again next morning!

montegastro.me | 39 Ž ab lja k Household Šarović

You will find the Sarovic family, Vanja and her three sons near the famous Savin kuk ski center, in the village of Virak, named after the medicinal herb virak which is abundant here. So it is no wonder that this household deals with medicinal and aromatic herbs. They grow potatoes and corn and a variety of vegetables, but nothing will strengthen you like a cup of mountain, wild tea after hiking in Durmitor. Vanja cooks perfectly, all her guests say so and her biggest recommendation are her three lit- tle boys, the young but sturdy boys of Durmitor, who use to say that their mother cooks the best. One of her sons loves to play gusle. He recently learned to play it and if he is in a good mood, he might also sing some of the epic Montenegrin battles for you. This house- hold also offers accommodation, both in the main house and in the hut for which natural wool was used as insulation, so you can choose what you like more. We know one thing, you won’t be bored here and you cer-

VILLAGE VIRAK Coordinates: 8FMX4495+V2 Phone: +382 69 494 601 E-mail: [email protected] tainly won’t be hungry.

montegastro.me | 41 With this gastro route guide we also present to you hotels and restaurants that within their offer also have traditional mountain dishes. These hotels and restaurants are easier to access than rural households, so if you do not have a lot of time while you are passing through this region, then you simply go there. When you pick a hotel or restaurant, make sure you ask the waiter to bring you a special menu Gorska trpeza/Mountain Bounty, and see what they offer and what is in season. And of course, enjoy!

RESTAURANT ČARDAK RESTAURANT SERDAR HOUSEHOLD JEZERA 4Q2H+97 Bijelo Polje XH72+G2 Mojkovac Slavko Karadžić +382 (0) 69 055 518 +382 (0) 69 630 385 34WJ+74 Žabljak [email protected] [email protected] +382 (0) 69 056 153 www.hotelserdar.me [email protected] RESTAURANT IMPERIJAL www.jezera.net 3Q3C+2R Bijelo Polje RESTAURANT PLANINAR +382 (0) 67 519 821 RGFC+V2 Kolašin RESTAURANT ZLATNI PAPAGAJ [email protected] +382 (0) 67 415 115 5439+XC Žabljak www.imperijal.me [email protected] +382 (0) 69 957 579 [email protected] RESTAURANT ARTE RESTAURANT TREBOVINA XH6H+WJ Mojkovac 9945+Q8 Pljevlja +382 (0) 67 802 801 +382 (0) 67 575 407 [email protected] [email protected] www.montegastro.me