05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 5

1 The Best of

Although it’s the state nickname, describing Florida as just The Sunshine State is like calling Katie Couric “perky.” Sure, it’s true, but not all the time—and it doesn’t nearly begin to describe the state’s other marketable assets. There’s a lot more to the state than just sunshine—which, by the way, isn’t even a 24/7 given; it does rain here. Weather aside, choosing the best of Florida is by no means sim- ple. While millions of visitors flock to Florida to escape the bleakness of winter and being landlocked, they don’t all come down just for sun, fun, and Mickey Mouse. Sure, the promise of (mostly) clear skies and 800 miles of sparkling, sandy beaches is alluring, as are the animatronics and roller coasters in Orlando and Tampa, but there’s much more to the state than that. In fact, in many ways, Florida is like a beautiful, blonde beauty queen who everyone thinks is all fluff until they find out she also happens to be a Rhodes scholar. Okay, so we’re not saying that Florida is brilliant, per se, but what we are saying is that there’s more than meets the eye that makes this one of the country’s most popular year-round vacation destinations. Here you can choose from a colorful, often kitschy assortment of accommo- dations, from deluxe resorts to mom-and-pop motels. You can visit remote little towns like Apalachicola or a multicultural megalopolis like Miami. Devour fresh seafood, from amberjack to oysters—and then work off those calories in such outdoor pursuits as bicycling, golfing, or kayaking. Despite overdevelopment in many parts of the state, Floridians have maintained thousands of acres of wilder- ness areas, from the little respite of Clam Pass County Park in downtown Naples to the magnificent Everglades National Park, which stretches across the state’s southern tip. Choosing the “best” of all this is a daunting task, and the selections in this chapter are only a rundown of some of the highlights. You’ll find numerous other outstanding resorts, hotels, destinations, activities, and attractions described in the pages of this book. With an open mind and sense of adventure, you should be able to come up with some bests of your own. 1 TheCOPYRIGHTED Best Beaches MATERIAL 1 • Virginia Key (Key Biscayne): The radiates serenity with 1 ⁄4 miles of producers of Survivor could feasi- sandy beach, nature trails, and even bly shoot their show on this ultra- a historic lighthouse that recalls an secluded, picturesque, and deserted era before pristine places like this key, where people go purposely one gave way to avaricious develop- not to be found. See p. 118. ers and pollutants. See p. 125. • Bill Baggs Cape Florida State • Lummus Park Beach (South Park (Key Biscayne): The pot of Beach): This beach is world gold at the end of the rainbow, renowned, not necessarily for its Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park pristine sands, but for its more 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA Florida ALABAMA GEORGIA

85 319 19 29 10 231 r 10 Fort Walton e v Beach CENTRAL i R 10 98 TIME a l Jacksonville Pensacola 98 o EASTERN Tallahassee Panama City c Destin i TIME 19 h c 27

a 319

Perdido l 98 a

Key Panama City Beach p

A 27 98 Apalachicola St.St. GeorgeGeorge IslandIsland Apalachee Bay

Gulf of Mexico Tampa

St. Petersburg St. Pete Beach

Bradenton Sarasota

BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE

Miami EVERGLADES THE NATIONAL PARK

FLORIDA

Bahia Honda 0 50 mi Key Big Pine N Key 0 50 km Coppitt Key 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 7

THE BEST BEACHES 7

r e iv R 95 ee n n 1 a w Su Amelia Island A1A

JacksonvilleJacksonville Jacksonville Beach 10 Ponte Vedera Beach

S Lake City t . 1 J 295 o h 75 n s St. Augustine

R

i St. George v e St. Augustine Beach Island r Gainesville 95 OCALA A1A ATLANTIC 24 NATIONAL 1 OCEAN 41 FOREST Daytona Beach 19 Ocala 40 98 4 1 Cedar De Land Key

Homosassa 75 Orlando NASA-Kennedy Springs Space Center 50 Bee Line Cape Tarpon Springs Expwy. 528 Canaveral 98 27 Clearwater Kissimmee Cocoa Beach Beach F lo ri Clearwater TTampaampa da Melbourne Lakeland ’s 95 4 T Winter Haven u A1A r 19 n St.St. p 1 60 ik PetersburgPetersburg e Sebastion SSt.t. PPeteete 60 Ki ss Vero Beach BeachBeach im m e North Hutchinson Island Anna Maria 17 e 64 R Island BBradentonradenton iver Fort Pierce 17 SSarasotaarasota 98 70 Port St. Lucie 70 72 Jensen Beach Stuart 41 75 27 Hobe Sound Lake Jupiter Gasparilla 31 Okeechobee Riviera Beach Island ver West Palm Beach Boca Grande hee Ri osahatc Useppa Calo 80 27 441 Palm Beach Island 1 Fort Myers Captiva Island 95 Delray Beach Sanibel Island 27 Boca Raton Fort Myers BIG CYPRESS Beach SWAMP Everglade Pkwy. Pompano Beach (Alligator Alley) Naples 75 84 Fort Lauderdale 29 BBIGIG CCYPRESSYPRESS Dania Beach NATIONALNATIONAL PRESERVEPRESERVE 595 Hollywood Everglades City Hallandale Miami Beach Marco 41 (South Beach Island Ten MiamiMiami and Sunny Isles) Thousand EEVERGLADESVERGLADES Islands NNATIONALATIONAL Homestead 195 PPARKARK 1 Flamingo BISCAYNE NATIONAL PARK Florida Bay Key Largo s Plantation Key lorida BahiaBahia HondaHonda F KeyKey Long Key BigBig PinePine Key West 1 CoppittCoppitt KeyKey Marathon Key Dry Tortugas KeyKey 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA

common name of South Beach, pine forests, mangrove swamps, on which seeing, being seen, and, oak hammocks, and grasslands at times, the obscene, go hand in provides a genuine get-away-from- hand with the sunscreen and beach it-all experience. Access is only by towels. The 12th Street section of boat from nearby Gasparilla, Pine, this beach is the beach of choice and Captiva islands. See p. 358. for gay residents and travelers who • Naples Beach (Naples): Many come to show off just how much Florida cities and towns have time they’ve spent in the gym and, beaches, but few are as lovely as of course, catch up on the latest the gorgeous strip that runs in gossip and upcoming must-attend front of Naples’ famous Million- parties and events. Oftentimes, aires’ Row. You don’t have to be this beach is the venue for some of rich to wander its length, peer at the liveliest parties South Beach the mansions, and stroll on his- has ever seen. See p. 118. toric Naples Pier to catch a sunset • Haulover Beach (Miami Beach): over the Gulf. See p. 365. Nestled between the Intracoastal • Caladesi Island State Park Waterway and the ocean, especially (Clearwater Beach): Even though 1 at the north end, is the place to be 3 ⁄2-mile-long Caladesi Island is in for that all-over tan: Haulover is the heavily developed Tampa Bay the city’s only clothing-optional— area, it has a lovely, relatively aka nude—beach. See p. 132. secluded beach with soft sand • Bahia Honda State Park (Bahia edged in sea grass and palmettos. Honda Key): One of the nicest and Dolphins cavort in offshore most peaceful beaches in Florida, waters. In the park itself, there’s a located amidst 635 acres of nature nature trail, and you might see trails and even a portion of Henry one of the rattlesnakes, black rac- Flagler’s railroad. See p. 185. ers, raccoons, armadillos, or rab- • John U. Lloyd Beach State Park bits that live here. The park is (Dania Beach): Unfettered by accessible only by ferry from Hon- high-rise condominiums, T-shirt eymoon Island State Recreation shops, and hotels, this wonderful Area off Dunedin. See p. 422. beach boasts an untouched shore- • Fort DeSoto Park (St. Peters- line surrounded by a canopy of burg): Where else can you get a Australian pine to ensure com- good tan and a history lesson? At plete seclusion. See p. 243. Fort DeSoto Park, you not only • Lover’s Key State Park (Fort have 1,136 acres of five intercon- Myers Beach): You’ll have to walk nected islands and 3 miles of or take a tram through a bird- unfettered beaches, but a fort, for filled forest of mangroves to this which the park was named, that’s gorgeous, unspoiled beach just a listed on the National Register of few miles south of busy Fort Historic Places, nature trails, fish- 1 Myers Beach. Although Sanibel ing piers, a 2 ⁄4-mile canoe trail, Island gets all the accolades, the and spectacular views of Tampa shelling here is just as good, if not Bay and the Gulf. See p. 424. better. See p. 332. • Canaveral National Seashore • Cayo Costa State Park (off Cap- (Cape Canaveral): Midway between tiva Island): These days, deserted the crowded attractions at Daytona tropical islands with great beaches Beach and the Kennedy Space are scarce in Florida, but this Center is a protected stretch of 2,132-acre barrier strip of sand, coastline 24 miles long, backed by 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 9

THE BEST FISHING 9

cabbage palms, sea grapes, and of the national seashore and palmettos. See p. 518. equally beautiful are Grayton • Gulf Islands National Seashore Beach State Park near Destin and (Pensacola): You could argue that St. George Island State Park off all of Northwest Florida’s Gulf Apalachicola. See p. 584. shore is one of America’s great • St. Andrews State Park (Panama beaches—an almost-uninterrupted City Beach): With more than stretch of pure white sand that 1,000 acres of dazzling white sand runs the entire length of the Pan- and dunes, this preserved wilder- handle, from Perdido Key to St. ness demonstrates what Panama George Island. The Gulf Islands City Beach looked like before National Seashore preserves much motels and condominiums lined of this natural wonder in its unde- its shore, with lacy, golden sea oats veloped state. Countless terns, swaying in Gulf breezes and fra- snowy plovers, black skimmers, grant rosemary growing wild. The and other birds nest along the area is also home to foxes, coyotes, dunes topped with sea oats. East and a herd of deer. See p. 615.

2 The Best Fishing • The Keys: The Keys boast some good eating fish. It covers more world-class deep-sea fishing; the than 467,000 acres; that’s more than prize is such big-game fish as mar- 730 square miles. At one time, the lin, sailfish, and tuna. There’s reef lake supported an enormous com- fishing as well, for “eating fish” mercial fishing industry. Due to a like snapper and grouper, and commercial fishing-net ban, how- backcountry fishing for bonefish, ever, much of that industry has tarpon, and other “stalking” fish. died off, leaving the sport fishers Dozens of charter-fishing boats all the rich bounty of the lake. See operate from Key West marinas p. 317. and from other less-popular keys. • Stuart: Known as the “Sailfish Islamorada, in the Upper Keys, is Capital of the World,” Stuart is an the sport-fishing capital of the angler’s haven. The fish bite year- world. Anglers compete for tro- round, but peak months are phy sailfish, marlin, wahoo, and December through March and kingfish at many annual big- June through July. Sailfishing is an money tournaments. Seven-Mile art of its own—beginners need to Bridge, linking the Middle and learn to feel that exact moment to Lower Keys, is known as “the let the reel drag so that the fish longest fishing bridge in the run with the lure. See p. 300. world”; it’s also a favorite spot for • Boca Grande: The deep, shadowy local fishers who wait for bar- holes of Boca Grande Pass, racuda, yellowtail, and dolphin to between Gasparilla and Cayo bite. See p. 175. Costa islands off Fort Myers, har- • Lake Okeechobee: Many visitors bor the mighty tarpon, the “silver to the Treasure Coast come to fish, king of the seas.” Teddy Roosevelt and they certainly get their fill off and his rich buddies used to bag the miles of Atlantic shore and on tarpon in these waters, and anglers the inland rivers. If you want to fish from around the globe still com- freshwater and nothing else, head pete every July in the World’s for Lake Okeechobee, the state’s Richest Tarpon Tournament. See largest lake, which is chock-full of p. 358. 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA

• Destin: Florida’s largest charter- Anglers here have landed champi- boat fleet, with more than 140 onship catches of grouper, amber- vessels, is based in this Panhandle jack, snapper, mackerel, cobia, town, which calls itself the sailfish, wahoo, tuna, and blue “World’s Luckiest Fishing Village.” marlin. See p. 600.

3 The Best Golf Courses • Biltmore Hotel (Miami): The • Champions Club at Summer- beautiful, rolling 18-hole golf field (Stuart): The best in the area, course designed by Donald Ross this rural, somewhat-challenging and located at the majestic Bilt- championship course was designed more Hotel in Coral Gables is by Tom Fazio and built in 1994. It open to the public and is a favorite also offers great glimpses of wildlife of Bill Clinton’s. See p. 84. amid the wetlands. See p. 300. • Doral Golf Resort and Spa • Tiburón Golf Club (Naples): (Miami): Four championship designed the 36 courses make the Doral one of championship holes at this course Miami’s best golf destinations. to play like a British Open—but One course, the legendary Blue without the thick thatch rough. Monster, is the site of the annual The course is now home to the Doral-Ryder Open. See p. 81. luxurious Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, • Turnberry Isle Resort and Club Naples. See p. 365. (Aventura, North Miami Beach): • Naples Beach Hotel & Golf These two courses by Robert Club (Naples): One of the state’s Trent Jones Sr. are open only to oldest, this resort course is rela- guests but are among the city’s tively flat, but small greens and best. See p. 83. masterful bunkers will test your • The Inn at Boca Teeca (Boca skills. In addition, one of Florida’s Raton): For over 3 decades, this most charming resort hotels is inn has been attracting golf fanat- across the street. See p. 369. ics who could care less about the • Mangrove Bay (St. small, but comfortable, rooms Petersburg): One of the nation’s because they’re too busy out on top 50 municipal courses, the the superb 27-hole golf course at Mangrove Bay course hugs the the Inn’s Boca Teeca Country inlets of Old Tampa Bay and Club, open only to members and offers 18-hole, -72 play. Facili- guests of the inn. See p. 268. ties include a driving range; les- • PGA National Resort & Spa sons and golf-club rental are also (Palm Beach): This rambling available. See p. 413. resort, the national headquarters of • The Westin Innisbrook Resort the PGA, is a premier golf destina- (Tarpon Springs): Golfweek has tion, with five 18-hole courses on called Innisbrook’s Copperhead more than 2,300 acres. See p. 295. Course, former home of the • Emerald Dunes Golf Course annual JCPenney Classic, number (West Palm Beach): This gorgeous one in Florida. One thousand stu- Tom Fazio–designed course (fea- dents a year go through Innis- turing 60 acres of water and stun- brook’s Golf Institute, and golfers ning views of the ocean) is pricey from around the world come to but one of only a few in the area play the 600 acres of courses. See open to the public. See p. 276. p. 431. 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 11

THE BEST SMALL TOWNS 11

• Walt Disney World (Orlando): • Ocean Hammock Golf Club The resorts surrounding the (Palm Coast, between Daytona theme parks have 99 regulation Beach and St. Augustine): Opened holes that let you walk in the foot- in late 2000 with six of its holes steps (and share the frustrations) actually skirting the Atlantic of the game’s greatest players. Ocean, this –designed Those with a shorter stroke can course is the first authentic seaside play the master miniature courses: links built in Florida since the Fantasia Gardens and Winter 1920s. See p. 548. Summerland. See p. 509. • Amelia Island Plantation (Amelia • Ladies Professional Golf Island): This exclusive resort has Association/LPGA International three of the state’s best courses. (Daytona Beach): This “women- Long Point Club, designed by friendly” course (unless you’re Tom Fazio, is the most beautiful Anika Sorenson) has multiple tee and challenging. ’s Amelia settings, unrestricted tee times, a Links is another oceanfront great pro shop, and state-of-the- course. Both are open only to art facilities. Designed by Rees- resort guests. See p. 574. Jones, the older of the two courses • Marriott’s Bay Point Resort here was chosen as one of the Village (Panama City Beach): “Top Ten You Can Play” by Golf Thirty-six holes of championship magazine. See p. 529. golf at this Marriott include the • TPC at Sawgrass (Ponte Vedra Lagoon Legends course, one of Beach, near Jacksonville): With 99 the country’s most difficult. holes, Pete Dye’s Tournament Nearby is The Hombre, an 18- Players Club (TPC) at Sawgrass holer where O. J. Simpson played makes top-10 lists everywhere. a round right after his acquittal. The 17th hole, on a tricky island, See p. 620. is one of the most photographed holes in the world. See p. 561.

4 The Best Small Towns • Sebastian (Treasure Coast): and Astors once arrived, for the win- Known as one of the last remain- tertime “social season,” at the town’s ing fishing villages in Florida, railway depot, which has been Sebastian is located at the northern restored and now houses shops and tip of the Treasure Coast region in the Loose Caboose Restaurant and Indian River County. The area’s Ice Cream Parlor. See p. 358. small-town feel and laid-back, • Olde Naples (Naples): Started in relaxed atmosphere is one of its 1886 as a real-estate development, biggest draws. See p. 310. the original part of Naples retains • Boca Grande (Southwest Florida): much of Old Florida’s charm, with Founded in the 1880s, this little tree-lined streets dividing many of village on Gasparilla Island retains the original clapboard homes. the flavor of those Victorian times. With the houses on Millionaires’ Luxurious mansions coexist with Row virtually hidden by dense simple homes of fishermen who foliage and with no high-rises in guide rich folks in search of tarpon, sight, Naples Beach seems far just as their ancestors did a cen- removed from today’s modern tury ago. The du Ponts, Mellons, city. See p. 365. 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA

• Tarpon Springs (Southwest • Apalachicola (Northwest Florida): Florida): Tarpon Springs calls Located at the mouth of the itself the “Sponge Capital of the Apalachicola River, this Gulf-shore World,” because immigrants from town was a major cotton port Greece settled here in the late before the Civil War, and a later 1800s to harvest the sponges that timber boom resulted in the fine grew in abundance offshore. Their Victorian homes that still grace descendants make Tarpon Springs Apalachicola’s uncurbed streets. It a fascinating center of trans- was here that Dr. John Gorrie planted Greek culture. Sponges invented the forerunner of the air still arrive at the historic Sponge conditioner, which revolutionized Docks, where a lively, carnival-like Florida’s tourism industry. Today, atmosphere and Greek cuisine the major industry is seafood, with prevail. Restored Victorian homes famous Apalachicola oysters eaten facing Spring Bayou also make fresh off the boats. See p. 624. this one of the most picturesque • Pensacola (Northwest Florida): towns in the state. See p. 434. One of America’s oldest commu- • Fernandina Beach (Northeast nities, Pensacola has preserved its Florida): You can stay at two of Spanish, French, and English her- Florida’s ritziest resorts on Amelia itage in the Seville Historic Dis- Island, but the real charm here is trict and Historic Pensacola in the quaint town of Fernandina Village. Spanish-named streets are Beach, where a 50-block area of bordered by both French-style Victorian and Queen Anne homes wrought-iron balconies reminiscent is listed on the National Register of New Orleans and English of Historic Places. See p. 570. colonial churches like those in Williamsburg, Virginia. See p. 580.

5 The Best Luxury Resorts • Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne (Key • Ritz-Carlton (South Beach; Biscayne; & 800/241-3333 or & 800/241-3333 or 786/276- 305/365-4500): In addition to the 4000): Taking the concept of Ritz’s consistently superior serv- swanky South Beach to a very lit- ices and amenities, this British- eral level, the Ritz-Carlton South colonial–style version of the Ritz Beach may be a landmark build- rises above its casual Key Biscayne ing restored to its original 1950s surroundings with a stellar view of Art Moderne style, but in terms of the Atlantic Ocean, not to men- the hotel’s standout service, tion an equally impressive 20,000- amenities, and oceanfront, every- square-foot spa. See p. 76. thing else is very much in the • Mandarin Oriental, Miami immediate present. See p. 66. (Brickell Key, Miami; & 305/ • The Breakers (Palm Beach; 913-8288): The swank and stun- & 800/833-3141 or 561/655- ning Mandarin Oriental features a 6611): This stately, historic hotel waterfront location, residential- epitomizes la dolce vita, Palm style rooms (most with balconies), Beach style, featuring expansive superb service, a spa frequented by manicured lawns, an elegant J-Lo, and several upscale dining lobby, the state’s oldest and very and bar facilities previously scenic golf course, and impeccable unknown to its nearby downtown service. See p. 282. Miami locale. See p. 80. 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 13

THE BEST LUXURY RESORTS 13

• Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach art, Oriental rugs, Waterford crys- (Palm Beach; & 800/432-2335 tal chandeliers, and afternoon or 561/582-2800): “Exquisite” is British-style high tea. Guests relax the adjective most often used to in high-backed rockers on the describe this posher than Posh verandas or unwind by the heated Spice and David Beckham com- swimming pool set in a land- bined luxe hotel. Luxurious but scaped terrace, but they must walk hardly stuffy, this hotel was the through a narrow mangrove forest stay of choice for quintessential to reach the beach. See p. 372. aging rockers Aerosmith, who • Don CeSar Beach Resort & Spa took great advantage of post-con- (St. Pete Beach; & 866/728-2206 cert pampering. See p. 283. or 727/360-1881): Dating back to • LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort 1928 and listed on the National (Naples; & 800/237-6883 or Register of Historic Places, this 239/597-3123): More intimate “Pink Palace” tropical getaway is than the Ritz, the equally luxe so romantic you may bump into LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort six or seven honeymooning cou- offers spacious rooms, each with a ples in one weekend. The lobby completely private balcony with has classic high windows and seating and lighting overlooking archways, crystal chandeliers, the pristine waters of the Gulf or marble floors, and original art- Vanderbilt Bay. New to the com- works. Most rooms have high ceil- pletely renovated property are ings and offer views of the Gulf or four uniquely designed swimming Boca Ciega Bay. See p. 427. pools, two lagoons and an out- • Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort door whirlpool, Tiki Bar, retail & Spa (Orlando; & 407/934- shop, the 4,500-square-foot Spa- 7639): This magnificent Victo- Terre, 2,700-square-foot fitness rian inn has an opulent five-story center, 234-seat Gulf-view Baleen lobby complete with a Chinese Restaurant and bar, and a 6,907- Chippendale aviary. An orchestra yard championship layout 18-hole plays big-band music every evening golf course designed by Bob Cupp near Victoria & Albert’s, the resort’s and David Leadbetter Golf School. five-star restaurant. See p. 464. See p. 370. • Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress • The Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, Resort (Orlando; & 800/233- Naples (Naples; & 888/856-4372 1234 or 407/239-1234): This or 239/593-2000): This luxurious standout has some impressive new Mediterranean-style resort treats, including a half-acre pool takes full advantage of the Greg with a dozen waterfalls and three Norman–designed Tiburón Golf spas, 12 tennis courts, four Jack Club. Guests here can use the Nicklaus–designed golf courses, beach and spa at The Ritz-Carl- and a 45-acre nature walk. All that ton, Naples, nearby. See p. 371. adds up to luxury. See p. 470. • The Ritz-Carlton, Naples (Naples; • Amelia Island Plantation (Amelia & 888/856-4372 or 239/598- Island; & 888/261-6161 or 904/ 3300): This opulent 14-story 261-6161): Set amid magnolias, Mediterranean-style hotel at oak trees, and the Atlantic Ocean, Vanderbilt Beach is a favorite of this gracious resort is straight out affluent guests who like standard of the Deep South. It’s more rustic Ritz-Carlton amenities such as than the nearby Ritz, but it has imported marble floors, antique excellent hiking and biking paths, 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA

tennis, swimming, horseback rid- top courses in Florida. See p. 574 ing, and boating. Golfers can and “The Best Golf Courses,” in enjoy exclusive use of two of the section 3, earlier in this chapter.

6 The Best Romantic Hideaways • Hotel Place St. Michel (Coral • Little Palm Island (Little Torch Gables; & 800/848-HOTEL or Key; & 800/343-8567 or 305/444-1666): This European- 305/872-2524): Accessible only style hotel in the heart of Coral by boat, this private 5-acre island Gables is one of the city’s most is not only remote, it’s romantic, romantic options. The accommo- featuring no TVs, telephones, or dations and hospitality are very faxes in the luxurious thatched old-world European, complete cottages. See p. 187. with dark wood-paneled walls, • Marquesa Hotel (Key West; cozy beds, beautiful antiques, and & 800/869-4631 or 305/292- a quiet elegance that seems star- 1919): Don’t be fooled by the tlingly out of place in trendy Marquesa’s location on heavily Miami. See p. 85. populated Key West: This charm- • Hotel Impala (Miami Beach; ing B&B is in a wonderful world & 800/646-7252 or 305/673- of its own, far enough from the 2021): During the heyday of tumult, yet close enough if you 1990s excess, Miami Beach was want it. See p. 206. known for the fabulous parties • The Gardens Hotel (Key West; thrown by the eclectic designer & 800/526-2664 or 305/294- Gianni Versace. The late Versace 2661): A well kept, hidden secret— desired an intimate European- until now, The Gardens Hotel is styled guesthouse that would an exotic, lush, serene, and sultry please well-seasoned travelers, and escape from the frat boy madness the Impala is the result. His per- that ensues on nearby Duval sonal touch on this renovated Street. See p. 204. Mediterranean inn is still evident, • Sundy House (Delray Beach; from the Greco-Roman frescoes & 877/439-9601 or 561/272- and friezes to an intimate garden 5678): With just 11 suites sur- that is perfumed with the scents rounded by over 5,000 species of from carefully hanging lilies and exotic plants and flowers, gazebos gardenias. See p. 69. and rolling streams, Sundy House • Abbey Hotel (South Beach; is a gorgeous getaway close enough & 888/61-ABBEY or 305/531- to the beach, but safely hidden from 0031): This ’40s-revival boutique the mood-ruining madness and hotel, tucked away in a mostly res- conventionality of your typical idential neighborhood, is a haven tourist-class beach hotel. See p. 267. from the neighboring South • Island’s End Resort (St. Pete Beach hoopla. See p. 69. Beach; & 727/360-5023). Sitting • Jules’ Undersea Lodge (Key right on Pass-a-Grille, where the Largo; & 305/451-2353): Sub- Gulf of Mexico meets Tampa Bay, merge yourself in this single-room this little all-cottage retreat is a Atlantis-like hotel that offers a great hideaway from the madden- surprisingly comfortable suite 30 ing crowds of St. Pete Beach. You feet underwater. Don’t worry; won’t have an on-site restaurant, there’s plenty of breathing room. bar, and other such amenities, but See p. 177. you can step from your cottage 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 15

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS 15

right onto the beach. And if you woodsy grounds make you feel as if get the unit with two living you’re far, far from Disney, which is rooms, you’ll have a whirlpool tub right next door. See p. 471. and your own private Gulf-side • The Lodge & Club at Ponte swimming pool. See p. 429. Vedra Beach (Jacksonville; & 800/ • Turtle Beach Resort (Siesta Key, 243-4304 or 904/273-9500): off Sarasota; & 941/349-4554): Every unit at this intimate hotel in Sitting beside the bay, this inti- upscale Ponte Vedra Beach has a mate little charmer began life romantic seat built in front of its years ago as a traditional Old oceanview window, plus there’s a Florida fishing camp, but today big bathroom with a two-person it’s one of the state’s most roman- tub and a separate shower. Gas fire- tic retreats. It’s a tightly packed lit- places in most units add even more tle place, but high wooden fences charm. One of the three swimming surround each unit’s private out- pools and whirlpools here is door hot tub, and one-way mirror reserved exclusively for couples. walls let you lounge in bed while You can also get married in the passersby see only reflections of semicircular meeting room over- themselves. See p. 449. looking the Atlantic. See p. 565. • Disney’s Wilderness Lodge (Lake • Henderson Park Inn (Destin; Buena Vista; & 407/934-7639): & 800/336-4853 or 850/837- This property is reminiscent of 4853): Nestled against the eastern the lodge at Yellowstone. The edge of lovely Henderson Beach geyser out back, the mammoth State Recreation Area, this Cape stone hearth in the lobby, the din- Hatteras–style bed-and-breakfast ing room’s 360–degree view of offers romantic escapes without Bay Lake, and the nightly electric screaming kids. The individually water pageants are just a few of the decorated rooms ooze Victorian reasons to stay here. Some guest charm, with high ceilings, fire- rooms have patios or balconies places, Queen Anne furniture, overlooking the lake, woodlands, and Gulf views from private bal- or a meadow. See p. 466. conies. Some even have canopy • The Villas of Grand Cypress beds. See p. 603. (Orlando; & 800/835-7377 or • Seaside (near Destin; & 800/277- 407/239-4700): This luxury con- 8696 or 850/231-1320): If resi- dominium resort offers lush dents of Northwest Florida don’t grounds dotted with bougainvillea stay at the Henderson Park Inn for and hibiscus, lakes fat with large- their getaways, they head for the mouth bass and bream, and romantic Gulf-front cottages at grounds speckled with trumpeter Seaside. Built in the 1980s but swans, wood ducks, and the occa- evoking the 1880s, the Victorian- sional fox or bobcat. It shares a golf style village of Seaside (a short drive academy, racquet club, and eques- east of Destin) has several of its trian center with the Hyatt Regency cozy cottages designed especially Grand Cypress. Best of all, the for honeymooners. See p. 606.

7 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations • Abbey Hotel (South Beach; good reason to get off the main & 888/61-ABBEY or 305/531- drag and revel in its quiet elegance. 0031): Off the beaten path, this See p. 69. ’40s-revival boutique hotel gives 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA

• Hotel Leon (South Beach; & 305/ • Whitelaw Hotel (South Beach; 673-3767): A true value, this & 305/398-7000): With a slogan charismatic and hip sliver of a that reads “clean sheets, hot water, property has won the loyalty of and stiff drinks,” the Whitelaw fashion industrialists and roman- Hotel stands apart from the other tics alike. Built in 1929 and boutique hotels with its fierce sense restored in 1996, the hotel still of humor, but it never compro- retains many original details such mises on the fabulous amenities as facades, woodwork, and even found at some of the area’s more fireplaces. See p. 70. serious properties. See p. 72. • The Creek (South Beach; & 866/ • Conch Key Cottages (Marathon; 445-4800 or 305/538-1951): & 800/330-1577 or 305/289- Part Playboy’s Penthouse and part 1377): This oceanfront hideaway Jetsons, The Creek Hotel is a offers rustic but immaculate and kitschy, 81-room haven for hip- well-outfitted cottages that are sters who don’t feel the need to especially popular with families. spend $400 a night for a hip Each has a hammock, barbecue hotel. Of the three types of grill, and kitchen. See p. 178. rooms—shared, Cabana, and • Banyan Marina Resort (Fort Waterway Standard—the latter is Lauderdale; & 954/524-4430): the way to go, with 18 signature These fabulous waterfront apart- rooms designed by local artists ments located on a beautifully and designers. An 8,000-square- landscaped residential island may foot pool deck with a 40-foot fully have you vowing never to stay in a stocked bar, outdoor barbecues, hotel again. See p. 252. Ms. Pacman, pool tables, and the- • Hotel Biba (West Palm Beach; ater, The Creek is somewhere you & 561/832-0094): The mod squad wouldn’t mind being stuck with- has adopted—and adapted—this out a paddle. See p. 72. ’40s-style motel into a Jetsonian, • Pelican Hotel (South Beach; jet-set hangout that provides & 800/7-PELICAN or 305/673- swank and sleek shelter from the 3373): Owned by the creative upper-crusty hotels that surround owners of the Diesel Jeans com- it. See p. 286. pany, the Pelican is South Beach’s • Island’s End Resort (St. Pete only self-professed “toy-hotel,” in Beach; & 727/360-5023): A which each of its 30 rooms and wonderful respite from the mad- suites is decorated as outrageously dening crowd, and a great bargain as some of the area’s more colorful to boot, this little all-cottage hide- drag queens. See p. 71. away sits right on the southern tip • Indian Creek Hotel (Miami of St. Pete Beach, smack-dab on Beach; & 800/491-2772 or Pass-a-Grille, where the Gulf of 305/531-2727): A charming Key Mexico meets Tampa Bay. You can West–style hotel that’s full of char- step from the six contemporary acter, the Indian Creek Hotel cottages right onto the beach. One takes you back in time, with unit even has its own private period furnishings, attitude-free swimming pool. See p. 429. service, and a quaint pool and gar- • Best Western Lake Buena Vista den, completely lacking water Hotel (Lake Buena Vista; & 800/ slides, Tiki huts, or calypso bands. 348-3765 or 407/828-2424): This See p. 74. 12-acre, 18-story lakefront hotel is 05_568973 ch01.qxd 7/14/04 9:13 AM Page 17

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS 17

well kept and immaculate, with • Casa Monica Hotel (St. Augus- more upscale rooms and public tine; & 800/648-1888 or 904/ areas than you might expect at a 827-1888): Built in 1888 as a lux- Best Western. And it has a great ury hotel, this Spanish-style build- location next to Walt Disney ing was gutted and restored to its World. See p. 469. previous elegance in 1998. Most • Disney’s Caribbean Beach Resort interesting of the guest quarters (Lake Buena Vista; & 407/934- are suites installed in two tile- 7639 or 407/934-3400): Here’s topped towers and a fortresslike good value by Disney standards. central turret. One suite in the Units on the 200-acre resort are turret has a half-round living grouped in five villages around a room with gun-port windows duck-filled lake. The welcoming overlooking St. Augustine’s his- rooms feature oak furniture and toric district. See p. 549. chintz bedspreads. There are also • Gibson Inn (Apalachicola; & 850/ 1 seven swimming pools, a 1 ⁄2-mile 653-2191): Built in 1907 as a sea- promenade, and a festive food man’s hotel and gorgeously court. See p. 466. restored in 1985, this cupola- • Staybridge Suites (Lake Buena topped inn is such a brilliant Vista; & 800/866-4549 or 407/ example of Victorian architecture 238-0777): Close to the action of that it’s listed on the National Downtown Disney and the theme Register of Historic Inns. No two parks, this resort’s one- and two- guest rooms are alike (some still bedroom suites have full kitchens have the original sinks in the and are larger and more comfort- sleeping area), but all are richly able than most of the competi- furnished with period reproduc- tion’s. And to help you relax, the tions. Grab a drink from the bar resort will do your grocery shop- and relax in one of the high- ping for you, so you don’t have to backed rockers on the old-fash- deal with the hassle. See p. 472. ioned veranda. See p. 627.