H&M TO LAND ON WEST COAST/2 ITALY’S INNERWEAR PLAN/9 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • Month 0, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear White Ahead — Trust Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to sex up the holidays. Their versatile cruise collection for Dolce & Gabbana serves a dual purpose: It fits the bill for exotic destinations and could also resolve thethe what-to-wearwhat-to-wear dilemmadilemma on ChristmasChristmas DayDay forfor theirtheir devotees who elect to stay home. The designing duo is also unveiling its new women’s flagship here, which will sell everything from jeans to ultrapricy one-of-a-kind pieces. Here, a crisp cruise look — a dazzling white shirt and jeans, detailed with Swarovski crystals. For more on the store and the collection, see pages 6 and 7.

The Race to Be Bigger: After Losing Field’s, Federated Keen to Buy By David Moin and Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Federated is still on the hunt. After losing its bid for Marshall Field’s to May Department Stores, Federated Department Stores remains eager to make acquisitions — and it could even snare a prize such as Neiman Marcus. Analysts and executives close to these companies also say Federated, which has more than $900 million cash on hand, might make a grab for Dillard’s or Nordstrom. “With Marshall Field’s going to May, this leaves an extremely cash-rich suitor standing on the sidelines: Federated,” said Dana Cohen, analyst for Banc of See Federated, Page5 PHOTO BY KHEPRI STUDIO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 WWDMONDAY H&M Headed to West Coast Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear GENERAL By Kristin Young May Co. outbid Federated for Marshall Field’s, but Federated still wants to LOS ANGELES — Hennes & Mauritz plans to go 1 make an acquisition, which could include a prize such as Neiman Marcus. head-to-head with retailers such as Gap and Hennes & Mauritz plans to go head-to-head with Gap and Macy’s West Macy’s West when it opens its first West Coast 2 when it opens its first West Coast store in San Francisco next year. store in San Francisco next year. H&M, the Swedish fast, cheap-chic EYE: Talking with author Alex Brunkhorst about “The Mating Season”…Her giant, has signed a 10-year lease for a 44,000- 4 stage name is Melissa Mars, but she’s down to earth…A soccer scoop. square-foot property at 150 Powell Street, near FASHION: Dolce & Gabbana’s first cruise collection features signature elements the Union Square shopping district. The sched- 6 such as form-fitting shapes, fruit-salad colors and Swarovski crystals and lace. uled opening is in fall 2005. San Francisco is the corporate home to Gap Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 and Macy’s West, both of which operate high-traf- H&M’s U.S. expansion, which began with stores like this To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fic stores near Union Square. In addition, Forever one in New York, is heading west to San Francisco. [email protected], using the individual's name. 21 is opening a three-story flagship in December WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 at Market and Powell streets. who asked not to be identified. But there are no im- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. The U.S. is considered one of H&M’s growth mediate plans to open a store in the city, Sandberg VOLUME 187, NO. 133. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional markets. The retailer is on track to open about 10 said. “We’re looking at different sites not just in issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 stores in the country per year and is nearing the California but everywhere in the U.S.,” she said. West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; 1,000-store mark worldwide in 19 countries. There Powell Street has the highest pedestrian traffic Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, are 70 stores in the U.S. H&M on Wednesday re- in San Francisco, said Vikki Johnson, who brokered Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- ported a 6 percent rise in second-quarter earn- the deal. H&M may build out the San Francisco President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at ings, lifted by its U.S. operations, which turned a market before L.A. “They have a history of saturat- additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration profit for the first time. ing a market before moving on,” Johnson said. No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. “We hold up to the competition in quality and Sandberg said H&M isn’t concerned that Gap’s FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR price and we want to be where they are,” said D-Fifty concept might be used to target the H&M DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is H&M spokeswoman Lisa Sandberg, noting the customer. “Basically, we wish them all the best,” required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new store will be “full concept” with offerings of men’s she said. “We encourage competition. It must subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, wear, women’s wear and children’s wear. “We do mean that we’re doing something right that peo- please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild very well in these areas. People are attracted to ple would want to emulate our business concept magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully the quality and price difference.” of fashion at the best quality.” screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. H&M picked San Francisco over Los Angeles H&M’s landlord, Union Property Capital, will WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED because suitable real estate became available there soon begin remodeling the former multitenant re- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND first, Sandberg said. H&M leasing executives have tail structure into 34,000 square feet for selling TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED been spotted in L.A., said a real estate executive, and 10,000 square feet for storage. TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID.

MONDAY: Qingdao International Fabrics, Accessories & Yarns Exhibition, Qingdao, China (through Wednesday). Ugandan Ambassador Leery of Phaseout TUESDAY: Shoes & Leather Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (through Thursday). Surf & Beach Show, Beach & Bikini Fashion Show, By Kristi Ellis such a request, but Ssempala ac- left of the quota phaseout. Many Streetwear & Skate Show and Fenit/Fenatec fairs, São WASHINGTON — U.S. Trade Rep- knowledged Friday the coalition apparel and textile companies Paulo, Brazil (through Friday). resentative Robert Zoellick and is gaining momentum. around the globe are bracing for Ugandan Ambassador Edith Zoellick reiterated the Bush China’s expected dominance of FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the employ- Ssempala have a difference of administration’s position on the apparel trade and the fallout ment report for June. opinion on the elimination of 10-year quota phaseout and, re- that could threaten other for- global textile and apparel quotas sponding to a question on eign apparel producers, causing SATURDAY: Mode et Mariage trade show, at the end of the year. whether the U.S. would support economic upheaval in many de- (through Monday). At a joint press conference an emergency WTO session, said, veloping countries and creating Friday championing the Senate’s “What we have to be careful massive layoffs. SUNDAY: Macy’s Fireworks Spectacular, New York. recent passage of legislation that about is we undertook WTO obli- “It is [a question] that con- Ispo/Ispovision International sporting goods fairs, would help the poorest sub- gations and we need to fulfill our cerns us very, very much,” said Munich (through July 6). Saharan African countries by ex- obligations. We said we would Ssempala. “We know the end of

tending special apparel duty end quotas and we [have to end quota is going to hurt Africa, COMING THISJULY WEEK 5: Paris Shows (through July 8). breaks, the two officials ex- textile and apparel] quotas.” and not just Africa, but the en- pressed disparate views on Zoellick also noted that all tire world except for a couple of whether or not quotas should be other WTO countries, including countries like China and India. extended beyond 2005. China, made the same commit- All countries in all parts of the A coalition of 90 internation- ment to phase out textile and world are waking up and they In Brief al apparel and textile organiza- apparel quotas by Jan. 1. have found this [quota elimina- tions representing 47 countries, Ssempala, however, reminded tion] will be extremely hard.” including a handful of African Zoellick that WTO countries, in- Ssempala stopped short of ● WRAPPED UP: A Versace spokesman confirmed on Friday that nations, held a summit in cluding Uganda, made the com- saying whether her government the company has completed its planned debt-restructuring initia- Brussels last week to coalesce mitments to phase out quotas on would call for an emergency tive through Banca Intesa and Versace will fully reimburse 100 mil- around the need to extend quo- apparel and textiles 10 years ago WTO session. Zoellick acknowl- lion euros, or $121.7 million at current exchange, worth of bonds tas beyond 2005 and push their when China was not a member of edged that African countries due July 5. That is the same date Versace shareholders are slated to respective governments to re- the WTO, and, therefore, was not face a daunting challenge when approve 2003 accounts. Under the terms of the deal, which was quest an emergency meeting of considered a threat. quotas are eliminated, even with originally stipulated in March, Banca Intesa will lend the company the World Trade Organization. That sentiment has changed the duty breaks contained in the 120 million euros, or $146 million. Versace’s net financial debt stood No governments have made drastically with just six months African Growth & Opportunity at about 117 million euros, or $142.4 million, at the end of 2003, Act. President Bush, who now down from 130 million euros, or $157.3 million, at the end of 2002. has the AGOA bill before him, is expected to sign it. ● LI & FUNG LANDS LEVI’S TOPS: Hong Kong sourcing power- The legislation, which the house Li & Fung has signed a licensing deal with Levi Strauss & Co. MOTHERHOOD. Senate approved by voice vote, to produce a line of men’s tops under the Red Tab, Silvertab and will allow apparel manufacturers Premium labels, starting with the 2005 season. WWD report- SIMPLE. in 19 least-developed sub-Saharan ed in April that negotiations for the tops licenses were ongoing. Li & African countries, such as Fung also produces women’s and men’s tops under the Levi Strauss BEAUTIFUL. Lesotho, Kenya and Madagascar, Signature label. Previously, Levi’s produced these tops in-house. to continue using fabric and yarn YOU. made outside the U.S. and Africa ● HOFFA QUITS TRADE POST: James Hoffa, president of the in garments and still qualify for International Brotherhood of Teamsters, resigned from his post U.S. duty breaks. Under the legis- on the President’s Advisory Committee on Trade Policy and lation, the special provision Negotiations late Thursday. Hoffa, whose place on the select commit- known as third-country fabric will tee that gives input on trade policy was seen as a boost to President be extended though September Bush, said he had no choice but to resign after Bush signed the 2007. The bill also will extend the Central American Free Trade Agreement, which critics claim con- broader benefits of AGOA, set to tains inadequate environmental and labor provisions. “The adminis- expire in 2008, through 2015. tration has clearly decided to wage a full-fledged attack on workers’ Introducing the Lace Molded Underwire Nursing Bra. Apparel imports from sub- rights, social justice and economic common sense,” Hoffa said in a One-handed clasp for easy nursing. Soft cotton lining. Saharan Africa totaled $1.6 bil- statement. He called the committee a “sham” and claimed labor’s It’s just as comfortable as it is beautiful. lion for the year ended April, advice was ignored and its input misrepresented on Capitol Hill. according to Commerce Depar- For information call 800.321.4804. MATERNITY · NURSING tment figures. Tuesday Wednesday Thursday

august 3,4,5, 2004 The Show Piers 12th Avenue at 55th Street, NYC

accessoriecircuit ThursdayWednesday Tuesday Photo & Business ID for Admission 9am–6pm Daily, 9am–5pm Last Day intermezzocollections An Exclusive Women’s Accessorie & Ready-to-Wear Trade Exhibition. Produced by ENK International Phone: 212.759.8055 Fax: 212.758.3403 Email: [email protected] 4 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM MATING DAME Stepford Wives Club LOS ANGELES — Though she’s a former talent agent GREENWICH, Conn. — The filmmakers of “The Stepford Wives” paid Alease Fisher “ungodly buckets of money” to for TV writers, first-time use the exterior of her house in Greenwich as the McMansion owned by the character played by Glenn Close in the author Alex Brunkhorst, film. So, on the day the movie opened earlier this month, Fisher, a fashion and jewelry designer who sells at such 31, had never considered stores as Saks Fifth Avenue, celebrated her manse’s acting debut with a screening for 150 of her closest friends at the writing to be her own Crown Greenwich Plaza Cinemas — and asked them to dress up like true Stepford wives. “It’s kind of a thin movie,” craft. Then a short story admits Fisher, “but I think everyone enjoyed spoofing the spoof of what Hollywood thinks our lives are.” Needless to she began as a Christmas say, when choosing their outfits, Fisher explains, “not many of us had to venture outside of our own closets.” gift for a friend snowballed into a 125-page novella and, within months, she’d sold her imaginative tale, “The Mating Season,” to St. Martin’s Press. The novel, which hits stores in July, details the brief encounter between an isolated young woman and an eccentric architect, by way of fantastical elements like talking tarantulas and time travel. “It’s a challenging genre because the story needs to be grounded enough that people can relate to it, yet Alex Brunkhorst in Proenza you have to tip off readers Schouler at the launch party to this unreal world that for her debut novel, “The they have to believe in for Mating Season.” a few hundred pages,” she says, while seated at a table at a Westside coffee house, one of her favorite writing haunts. “But it’s important to me that people don’t take it as this literal girl-who- talks-to-bugs story. It’s metaphorical.” The Milwaukee native deems “The Mating Season” They to be a personal story, though not autobiographical; it is dedicated to the friend for whom she wrote the Are original story, Brad Wearing® Dunning, an interior designer famous for collaborating with Tom Ford on his L.A. home. Brunkhorst is now at work on a second novel, a whimsical love story set by the sea and inspired in part by her new home in Marina del Rey, Calif. Her new manuscript, she has vowed, will be bug-free. “A lot of people think I’m a science nut,” she says. “But I am not this interested in insects in real life.” —Marcy Medina eye® EYE SCOOP Alease Fisher, GLOBE TROTTERS: “Around the center, with World in One Night” was the two pals. theme of the fund- raising gala at ’s Royal Academy last week, but the PARIS — She picked a planet for her stage name, but the 24-year-old pop only two countries with any Mars Attacks singer Melissa Mars, who burst onto the French pop scene last year, still appeal were England and has her feet firmly planted on the ground. She arrives at the lounge of the Croatia, which were dueling Grand Hotel Intercontinental accompanied by her mother, who doubles as one another in the Euro 2004 her manager. Championship. “I’ve been Mars’ first album, “Et Alors,” sold an encouraging 20,000 copies in looking at the artwork all France, and plans for a Japanese launch are on the horizon. Her songs — night,” lied Jessica de like her hit, “Daddy Doesn’t Like,” about her absent father — are loosely Rothschild, who was glued to autobiographical, but she sets her lyrics to a slick, Eighties-style techno the plasma screen, along with beat, and French teens are lapping it up. Because of her small, girlish Ashley and Allegra Hicks and voice and slender silhouette, she’s often compared with the French star David Tang, who cohosted the Vanessa Paradis, the singer and actress who is also the mother of Johnny event. De Rothschild’s Depp’s children. contribution to the atmosphere Born in Marseilles, Mars dabbled in acting until an encounter with was strictly sartorial. “It’s composer François Berheim prompted her to change gears. “With movies, global fashion,” she said of her there’s too much waiting around and too many others calling the shots, ” she white Converse high-tops and explains. “With my album, I’m the boss.” She’s currently at work on her Alexander McQueen skirt. second album, due in October, which will include songs in English. There to cheer on England — Jessica de While watching a cable fashion channel last year, Mars discovered her which beat Croatia 4-2 before Rothschild own fashion obsession: , in particular the fall 2003 rock ’n’ roll then being knocked out of the inin AlexanderAlexander collection by Karl Lagerfeld. tournament by Portugal a few McQueen. “It was nothing like the Chanel image I had,” she says. The adoration is days later — were such guests mutual — Chanel often dresses Mars for personal appearances. as Bryan Ferry, the newly divorced Jemima Khan, Audrey and Still, she has no ambitions to be the latest pop tart. Mars is driven to make Martin Gruss, Nina Campbell, Rita Konig, Anya Hindmarch, Theo her mark, like Serge Gainsbourg and his contemporaries did in the Sixties. Fennell and Dora della Gherardesca. Tommy Hilfiger, in town with “Today’s artists are not provocative like they were then,” she says. “I hope Beyoncé Knowles and his daughter, Ally, poked his head in I can make a difference.” before rushing off to a dinner at Eight Over Eight to mark the Melissa Mars — Chantal Goupil launch of his fragrance, True Star. STEPFORD PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; BRUNKHORSTSTEPFORD PHOTOS BY BY MARCY TIM JENKINS STEPHANE FEUGERE; DE ROTHSCHILD BY MEDINA; MARS BY WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 5 WWW.WWD.COM Federated on the Prowl Potential Targets Continued from page one tive vice president of stores and then, in 1990, as America Securities, in a recent research note. “As chairman and ceo. By Dan Burrows of the end of the first quarter, Federated had a As far as targeting Dillard’s, “I don’t feel it,” whopping $913 million of cash on the balance the executive said. “The stores need a huge NEW YORK — If size really does matter, then Federated will have to make sheet. In addition, the company has a history of amount of capital, though they have some good lo- an acquisition in order to maintain its position relative to a now Marshall successful department store acquisitions in the cations. But I don’t see losing Marshall Field’s as Field’s-enhanced May Co. past, most recently the Hawaii-based Liberty stopping Terry from acquisitions. If you are going All eyes are fixed on Dillard’s as the prime target, since the nation’s House in June 2001.” to sell Neiman’s, this is when you sell it. Neiman’s third-largest department store company would expand Federated into the One retail analyst, who works closely with is at the top of its game.” coveted Midwest, where it has little or no presence. Dillard’s is also major department stores, said if Federated could “I’d be shocked to see Dillard’s sold,” said a attractive, in part, because its dismal operating performance during the pry Neiman Marcus from its owners, the Smith high-level retailer in the South. “The family still last five years means it could probably be had for well below its $7.86 family, it “would be quite a catch” that “Wall controls the voting stock and they are passionate billion in annual sales. Calculating the midpoint between Dillard’s value as Street would applaud.” about the business. I can’t imagine they would de- a revenue generator and as a real estate play, A.G. Edwards & Sons analyst “Knowing the Smiths and knowing Terry cide they don’t want to do the business anymore. Robert Buchanan estimated a price tag of $5.35 billion for the company. [Lundgren, chief executive officer of Federated], They run the business because they love it.” The great unknown, which is a coin toss at best, is whether or not the the whole thing is intrigu- As for Belk’s, “they’re not Dillard family will sell. Indeed, Buchanan put the likelihood of a sale over ing,” said a retail executive. for sale,” said the source. the next 12 to 18 months at only 50 percent. Considering the size of “While Belk’s has a strong So, if Federated can’t have Dillard’s, what else is out there? To be sure, the Field’s buy — $3.2 bil- position in a region of the Federated has the resources to take a shot at almost any retailer it wants. lion — May has a lot to di- country, they operate a lot of It has more than ample cash and cash flow to borrow and buy. Moreover, gest, so the next takeover small stores in smaller mar- with almost $9 billion in market capitalization, Federated has plenty of move is likely to come from kets, which would be a de- share value to trade. It’s also financially robust, boasting a strong balance Federated. However, it will parture for Federated. sheet with leverage well under control. The long-term debt-to-equity ratio be tougher to find a retailer Dillard’s has good-size stands at 0.52, well below what Wall Street prefers, and its quick ratio for with as much cachet as stores, but they are also in the most recent quarter was 1.08. Field’s, or one that fits smaller markets than Below are some companies Federated could consider for an acquisition cleanly into the corporate Federated is accustomed to.” as well as a rough idea of what they might cost. Given the factors that fold of Federated, which in- Mark Bienstock, execu- would enter into such a negotiation — the assumption of debt, real estate cludes flags such as Macy’s tive vice president of DCD value and share price, to name just a few — the ballpark price tag is and Bloomingdale’s. Also, Capital, said Federated necessarily simplified, but rooted in reality. Historically, department stores Federated’s game plan of shouldn’t feel any pressure have commanded a price of one times annual sales. The ballpark figure growing its market position to make an acquisition. “I do has therefore been set at that number, plus or minus 10 percent. Of is going well. With the wind think they will be looking for course, the iron law of economics still stands: Something is worth only at its back, the company can selective fill-ins as the op- what you can get someone else to pay for it. be patient before pouncing portunities arise, and I be- on a deal. lieve they’ll be looking for BELK “This doesn’t have to be a opportunities that provide Annual Revenue: $2.26 billion game of chess,” said one Terry Lundgren geographic synergies for Number of Stores: 225 chief executive whose com- them.” Ballpark Price Tag: $2 billion to $2.5 billion pany competes with May and Federated. “In the Emmanuel Weintraub, an industry consultant of Would give Federated new or expanded markets in Arkansas, Mississippi, acquisition game, you can move twice in a row if the firm that bears his name, said, “In this econom- North Carolina and Texas, with considerable overlap in Florida. you want to.” ic environment, the available players are few and Geographically, not a great fit. Making a play for Dillard’s, Neiman Marcus or far between, so Federated shouldn’t be chasing any Nordstrom would be difficult for Federated. None deals. The opportunities will show themselves. BON-TON of these retailers is for sale, at least officially, and This is not a time to weaken one’s balance sheet.” Annual Revenue: $926.4 million all are family controlled. However, Dillard’s, a tra- Arnold Aronson, a consultant at Kurt Salmon Number of Stores: 142 ditional department store, would give Federated Associates, also said Federated doesn’t have to Ballpark Price Tag: $834 million to $1.02 billion greater penetration in the South, and makes more do anything. Bon-Ton’s namesake stores overlap with Federated in the Northeast, but its sense for Federated rather than May, since May “The Marshall Field’s transaction doesn’t leave Elder-Beerman operations would open or expand markets in the Midwest. has more coverage in Dillard’s territory through Federated in a position that is different from what An interesting scenario. its Foley’s and Famous-Barr divisions. it was before the acquisition. Marshall Field’s was Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom would give a competitor and remains one. The only differ- BOSCOV’S Federated a different merchandise slant toward ence is that it now has a new owner,” he said. Annual Revenue: $1.05 billion much more luxury, and a “I think Federated has in- Number of Stores: 41 broader customer base, stigated so many positive ini- Ballpark Price Tag: $900 million to $1.2 billion without too much merchan- Purchasing Power tiatives in trying to upgrade Concentrated presence in Pennsylvania, New York and New Jersey, dise duplication. itself. They’re on a very where Federated is already heavily represented. Doesn’t make sense Some see regional chains, Federated’s got a lot of what proper course that is consis- geographically. such as Belk’s, Gottschalk’s it takes to get along tent with upgrading their en- or Bon-Ton, as takeover tar- tire corporation. They don’t GOTTSCHALKS gets, given their limited CASH: $913 million (1) need to do anything reactive Annual Revenue: $667.8 million growth potential and uneven OPERATING CASH FLOW: $1.59 billion (2) because Federated can con- Number of Stores: 73 performances. But regionals tinue to grow organically,” Ballpark Price Tag: $600 million to $735 million operate many stores with MARKET CAPITALIZATION: $8.87 billion (3) Aronson said. With 64 department stores and 11 specialty stores in California, less square footage com- With its Field’s buy, May Washington, Alaska, Idaho, Oregon and Nevada, doesn’t give Federated a SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS, YAHOO! FINANCE pared with Federated stores, (1) MOST RECENT QUARTER (2) TRAILING 12 MONTHS (3) AS OF JUNE 25 now eclipses Federated in beachhead in the Midwest. Again, lots of overlap. and are situated in smaller total volume — $15.94 billion markets, while Federated generally operates big versus $15.26 billion. It gives May bragging rights NEIMAN MARCUS boxes in dense, urban areas. to say it’s bigger. However, retailers said that $600 Annual Revenue: $3.1 billion After the Marshall Field’s acquisition, Banc of million in volume isn’t a big enough differential Number of Stores: 51 America’s Cohen upgraded Dillard’s to “neutral” for the marketplace or for consumers. Ballpark Price Tag: $2.79 billion to $3.41 billion and raised target prices from $10 to $21, based “It’s not a sizable enough difference to give As long as Federated doesn’t seriously overpay for the superpremium on Dillard’s newfound appeal as a possible ac- May a huge amount more clout,” said the retailer operator of the Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman nameplates, this is quisition target. from the South. “Whether a company is $15 billion the kind of deal that gets Wall Street excited. First-rate real estate in major “Federated is always in the market for some- or $16 billion isn’t going to leverage a whole lot markets, outstanding earnings and sales in the booming luxury sector and thing,” said Carol Sanger, vice president of corporate more for you. Being 5 or 10 percent larger is not overall operational excellence make this elite company a tantalizing target. communications and external affairs. “We walk away substantial. What really matters is a relationship from more opportunities than we actually explore.” to resources and the ability to sell the goods.” NORDSTROM From a seller’s perspective, a takeover of However, another source close to May Co. said, Annual Revenues: $6.49 billion Neiman’s is ideal. The luxury retailer has deliv- “Psychologically, it means a lot to be the number Number of Stores: 149 ered robust same-store sales: May showed a gain one versus number two. It gives you a lot more Ballpark Price Tag: $5.84 billion to $7.14 billion of 8.5 percent, April was up 14 percent and March clout, particularly in this case — Marshall Field’s Like Neiman, this deal would be a major coup. Earnings and sales are jumped 25.7 percent. Meanwhile, shares of the re- gives May access to a whole host of better vendors. riding high on the luxury wave, and operations, which were already tailer have been riding around $55, which is close The market has to take May Co. seriously in a dif- extremely good, are getting even better. Nordstrom also has numerous to its 52-week high of $59. ferent way. There is a new vendor structure that stores in major Midwestern markets. If the price is right, a real prize. But a buyer would have to convince the Smith previously had nothing to do with May.” family to give up its stake. The family holds more Asked about the volume issue, Federated’s STEIN MART than 25 percent of Neiman's total common stock. Sanger said, “It doesn’t make a difference to us. Annual Revenue: $1.36 billion More important, they own 62.5 percent of the com- When we were the largest department store, we Number of Stores: 142 pany's class B shares, which effectively gives them didn’t promote ourselves that way. We said we Ballpark Price Tag: $1.2 billion to $1.5 billion control of the board of directors. were one of the largest department stores. Being a On the plus side, would open or expand Federated in key markets, “The Smiths like Terry a lot, and were angry better department store is more important than especially in the Midwest, making it the best geographic fit. On the when he left Neiman’s,” the retail executive being a bigger department store.” negative side, not a department store, but rather an off-pricer. added. From 1988 to 1994, Lundgren was at — With contributions from

Neiman Marcus in Dallas, serving first as execu- Jeanine Poggi REPORTS BASED ON COMPANY WWD CALCULATIONS SOURCE: 6 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 Dolce & Gabbana’s

By Courtney Colavita The new flagship at Via Della Spiga. MILAN — Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have a larger canvas on which to project their fashion fairy tale. With their sprawling new women’s flagship here, Dolce and Gabbana aren’t just unveiling a new retail concept, they’re embracing a kind of egalitarian luxe. Located at 26 Via Della Spiga, just doors down from their original store, the 11,800-square-foot space may stock everything from jeans to $100,000 one-of-a-kind pieces in the by-appointment-only VIP room, but its pur- pose, according to the duo, is to offer the same thing to women of all budgets. “Fashion is a dream. Fashion is luxury and when a woman goes to buy fashion — actually, when we all go to shop — we want, even if it’s just for a moment, to dream that we’re in a fairy tale,” Dolce told WWD during an exclusive preview of the store last week. “It doesn’t matter if it’s a tank top or an incredibly special piece, the approach is the same. At that moment, you’re buying a dream.” An in-store cafe, along with some dozen handmade black Murano glass chandeliers, en- closed Sicilian garden atria and fitting rooms covered entirely in mirrors, create a high-gloss fantasy with a palpable Dolce & Gabbana imprint. In fact, the duo’s signature gray balsatina stone floor is the only matte surface in the store. Mirrored mannequins are sprinkled throughout, some lounging across long, black, glass fixtures, others positioned next to chain-link curtains that cascade over windows. Marble is sparingly used to frame cash register areas and thresholds, while big gold Ds and Gs serve as door handles. “We want to give women a sense of luxury,” Gabbana said. “A real sensation of something su- perluxurious, something that makes one dream.” The space until recently housed two separate Dolce & Gabbana stores, accessories and vin- tage, and from the street, they still appear as two distinct units with individual entrances. The combined stores now have eight windows on the Via Della Spiga, creating a dominant space in one of Milan’s prime shopping streets for the $675 million company, which last year had pretax profits of $102.1 million. But, while the store looks like two units on the outside, on the inside, silver escalators seam- lessly connect the horseshoe-shaped store. Whether entering from the right or the left, once in the back of the store, four escalators ferry customers back and forth. The massive structure, 20 feet at its tallest, dips into a well, where a dual-sided, cinema-size, flat-screen television framed in black glass is suspended from the ceiling. On one side of the escalators is a long gallery stocked with accessories, while the other, its symmetrical equivalent, is dedicated to sweaters and T-shirts. “It’s really like a small department store,” Dolce said. To that end, the designers dedicated certain areas to specific segments and for the first time are filling fixtures with three sizes of every garment. “We like this idea of luxury, but quick luxury, because no one has time to spare,” Dolce said. “We didn’t want anymore to have just one item out on the floor. We don’t want customers to have to wait for the sales clerk to go to storage. This way, it’s out, she sees it, she tries it and it’s done.” Of course, if a customer wants to shop leisurely, that’s an option, as well. Pulling from their men’s store one door down on Corso Venezia, the designers have set up a smaller version of the martini bar within the new store, while throughout the shop, S-shaped black velvet divans weave in and out. Then there’s the VIP room. Covered by a suggestive black velvet curtain, special customers can enter the space and select one-of-a-kind pieces tucked behind leopard-and-gold-covered doors. Created by the designers, the one-off dresses, furs or even embroidered jeans sell for be- tween $1,200 and $120,000. They are not part of the collections and are not shown on the runway. Meanwhile, nestled in the back of the VIP room is yet an even more exclusive area, for the truly select few. There, a customer will find only a handful of garments. “It’s really couture,” Gabbana said. “Actually, it’s more than couture because these clothes are the truest sense of exclusivity.” Dolce said the idea for doing these pieces came about two years ago during a conversation with Isabella Rossellini, who was complaining about the exposure a dress would get even be- fore it was ever worn. “It should be a surprise, what a woman wears to a party or an event,” Dolce said. “So often dresses have been photographed or seen on the runway and it’s no longer a surprise, just a product.” Ironically, product is exactly what Dolce and Gabbana want the focus to be in the rest of the store. Adjustable recess and spot-lighting tracks highlight the clothes, which are segmented into different categories, such as basics and tailored clothing. “The most important thing about this store is the product,” Dolce said. “We had a little diffi- culty with the architects on that point, but we didn’t care, this was our store.” They worked with a series of architects, including David Chipperfield, interior designer Feruccio Laviani and lighting specialist Arnold Chan of Studio Isometrix, to complete the store. The designers started envisioning the project almost three years ago when they got the lease to the current palazzo, which was once owned by the Innocenti family, makers of the Mini Cooper in Italy during the Fifties and Sixties. The palazzo’s original pine, brass and frosted- glass doors were kept as part of the store’s interior. Work got under way over the past year, yet instead of putting up an Under Construction sign, the duo smartly filled the front space of the palazzo with two separate stores — selling their ac- cessories and vintage collections — while Chipperfield and his team excavated the back of the building. Their original women’s store will now be devoted to their accessories collections, while the new flagship will have a corner devoted to the vintage line. The designers declined to give the cost of the project; however Dolce & Gabbana’s director of general affairs Cristina Ruella has said in the past that the company spends an average of 651 euros, or about $788 at current exchange, for every square foot. With that calculation, the new store would run around 7.7 million euros, or $9.3 million. Yet, the designers would be the first to point out that this is not an average store. “It didn’t have a budget,” Dolce said. What it did have was the mandate to attract customers. “What we really believe in right now is the new generation,” Dolce said. “I remember being young and dreaming about Armani and Versace. I could only buy maybe one item a season. I couldn’t buy a lot, but I think young people today should have the same feeling. It’s right to educate the new generation about beauty.” Their vehicle for education will eventually expand outside of Milan. The company is plan- ning to remodel its New York, Los Angeles, London and Paris stores in the new concept, al- though the designers could not provide a time line. “It’s not that we want to dictate or be teachers. It’s not arrogance,” Dolce said. “It’s to bring to life even simple things in a special place. Beauty is beauty and everyone likes it, just like good food.” WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM Fair y-Ta le Flagship Livin’ la Vita Dolce MILAN — Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s Dolce & Gabbana cruise collection features all of the duo’s signature elements: form-fitting shapes in satin, cotton and , in fruit-salad colors, often embellished with Swarovski crystals and ribbon. There are lean, great-looking stovepipe jeans, racy slipdresses and even Sixties-style tunic tops made of lace.

Dolce & Gabbana’s silk tulle and lacelace dress.dress.

Dolce & Gabbana’s silk lace blouse over cotton jeans. STORE PHOTOS BY MAURICIO MIRANDA; FASHION PHOTOS BY KHEPRI STUDIO PHOTOS BY FASHION MIRANDA; MAURICIO STORE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Beyoncé and Tommy Celebrate True Star

NEW YORK — Beyoncé Knowles and pears on the fragrance’s outer packaging. his junior line there that summer. Tommy Hilfiger mastered the art of scent After the formal presentation — where “I brought Beyoncé in as a partner promotion Thursday at a party celebrat- Hilfiger played journalist and asked [for True Star] — I wanted her to be the ing the launch of True Star, the newest Knowles several leading questions about last word on the scent,” said Hilfiger, Tommy Hilfiger Toiletries fragrance. the fragrance — the singer took a few shouting over the deafening music at the Held at the Chelsea Art Museum, the minutes to discuss True Star with WWD. party. “There was only one person who event also marked the first public show- “The fragrance development process came to mind for this fragrance, and that ing of the commercial that will be run was a learning experience — it was was Beyoncé.” this fall by the Estée Lauder Cos., which great, because Tommy has the best peo- When asked if the two would collabo- owns the Hilfiger beauty license. The ple working with him,” said Knowles, rate on another scent, Hilfiger said with black-and-white spot features Knowles who said her preference is for sweet, but a smile, “This one’s so great, I don’t know singing “Wishing on a Star” a cappella. subtle scents — “I like fragrances that if we really need another one.” As re- only the people closest to you can smell.” Speaking of future projects, Knowles ported Knowles tested a number of submissions kept mum on details of her upcoming ap- BEAUTY BEAT first by for True Star — which she called “pure parel line with Kids Headquarters, but WWD on and timeless” — before settling on one. noted that the white satin floor-length Jan. 27, the scent, which will be released Coincidentally, she said, “It was exactly skirt with rhinestone waist detailing was in September in the U.S. and October glob- the same one that Tommy had picked.” designed by her mother, Tina Knowles. ally, was concocted with significant input That didn’t surprise Hilfiger, who said Both Beyoncé and her mother will col- from the songstress-turned-actress and he discovered Knowles in 1998 and hired Beyoncé laborate on the clothing venture, which fashion designer — and not only does her her group, Destiny’s Child, to play at Knowles could roll out early next year. face appear in the advertising, it also ap- Macy’s Herald Square when he launched —Julie Naughton DIFFA Event Raises $300K Mulberry in Black, Set for Growth NEW YORK — With chips in hand and check- books at the ready, guests at Thursday’s DIFFA By Samantha Conti Mulberry’s chief operating offi- USA LLC — with its main share- Viva Glam event at the Copacabana helped raise cer, who plans to boost sales to holders, Ong Beng Seng and more than $300,000 for the AIDS-fighting group. LONDON — After a nasty share- 50 million pounds, or $91 mil- Christina Ong, for distribution to The evening’s host, Maggie Rizer, rounded holders’ battle and years of loss- lion, over the next five years. U.S. wholesale clients. Mulberry up fellow models Anouck Lepere, Ujjwala, es, the British accessories and “We’ll be strengthening the has been eager to expand into the Natasa Vojnovic, Rhea Durham and others to ready-to-wear Mulberry is brand and getting the position- U.S. for more than two decades play some roulette and roll the dice. MAC back in action. ing right in each market,” said under its former owner, Roger Cosmetics chief executive officer John Demsey The company, which will Montague in a telephone inter- Saul, and he initially linked up co-hosted the bash, which marked the 20th an- make its major U.S. debut at view. She added that Mulberry with the Ongs to do so, but then niversary of Design Industries Foundation Bergdorf Goodman this fall, has also wants to be perceived as a fell out with them and in 2002 Fighting AIDS. Moby; Chloë Sevigny; Peter posted a profit for the first time “cool British brand,” and be the parted ways with the company he Arnold; Lauren Bush and her sister, Ashley; in three years, and there are “authority on all things tactile.” founded. He was succeeded as Heatherette designer Ritchie Rich; Yeohlee; Maggie plans to double the size of the The bulk of Mulberry’s bags chairman and chief executive of- Gilles Mendel; Isabel and Ruben Toledo, and Rizer in business by 2009. are made in the company’s facto- ficer by Godfrey Davis. Zang Toi were in the crowd. Marc In the fiscal year ended March ry in Somerset, England, from Montague said she’d eventu- Dressed in a yellow Juicy Couture minidress, Jacobs. 31, profits rose to 31,000 pounds, leathers that are vegetable-dyed ally like to see the U.S. market PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Durham twirled for the cameras. “I just had a or $56,420 at current exchange, and heavily drummed, giving generate a minimum 20 percent baby nine months ago. This is is my coming out,” she said, after the from a loss of 2.2 million pounds, them a worn finish with a vin- of Mulberry’s sales. “In fact, I’ll flashes died down. “I’ve been in Mommyhood.” or $4 million. Operating profits tage feel. Mulberry gives cus- be disappointed if that doesn’t Sevigny, who arrived with former Imitation of Christ designer rose to 540,000 pounds, or tomers a tube of cream to rub happen,” she said. Matt Damhave, was also a hit with the paparazzi in her skimpy gold $983,000, from a loss of 1.7 million into the bags to nourish the ma- The Roxy, one of the compa- Louis Vuitton dress. No stranger to the red carpet, Sevigny will ap- pounds, or $3 million, the compa- chine-battered leathers. ny’s bestsellers, is boxy with out- pear in two new movies — one with Woody Allen (“Melinda and ny said in a statement last week. Mulberry is already in side pockets and buckles, while Melinda”) and another with Lars von Trier (“Manderlay”). “Neither Sales, however, dropped 10 Bergdorf Goodman with a pre- the Bayswater, another big seller, is very collaborative. They know what they want, and that’s what percent to 25.3 million pounds, fall selection of Roxy bags, and has the feel of a Kelly bag — but you’ve got to give them,” she laughed. or $46 million, from 28.2 million will hold a fall launch party there is far more relaxed. After stepping out of fashion a few years ago, Damhave said he is pounds, or $51.3 million, due to on Sept. 8. The line is being sold The Roxy retails for about considering a return but probably won’t make up his mind until next the elimination of loss-making in the 58th Street store alongside 595 pounds, or $1,082, while the month. Wearing a plaid Ralph Lauren button-down shirt and jeans sales channels, reduced clear- , Celine, Bottega Bayswater sells for 495 pounds, with a red sweater wrapped around his waist, he said, “I watch what ance sales of discounted lines Veneta and Hogan. or $900. everyone is doing and make sure I’m doing something else.” and more limited distribution For spring, the collection will Currently, the business is Not many other designers could say they’ve been spending most of of the men’s and women’s rtw be sold at stores including made up of 70 percent acces- their days playing video games, doing odd jobs and reading such books collections. Barneys in New York, Los Angeles sories and 30 percent rtw, and as Philip Pullman’s award-winning trilogy, “His Dark Materials,” a cult Meanwhile, the current fiscal and Chicago and at Fred Siegal. Montague said the company plans classic with children and adults that touches upon nastism — that which year already is showing growth. Mulberry’s fall ad campaign was to remain accessories-driven. The doesn’t depend on direction from stimulus — among other things. Like-for-like sales in Mulberry’s shot by Paolo Roversi and stars bulk of sales are in the U.K., Before hitting the card tables, Moby and Winnie Beattie wanted shops during the first two months Missy Rayder. It will break in the where there are 13 Mulberry to be sure they wouldn’t have to cash out any winnings. “If we win were up 4 percent. September issues of British Vogue, stores, and northern Europe. something, we just want to donate it. It seems strange to go to a “We’ve shaped up the busi- American Vogue and Vanity Fair. Future growth will come from fund-raiser and to leave with a prize,” said Moby. ness model and now we’re going Mulberry has formed a joint- southern Europe, , — Rosemary Feitelberg for growth,” said Lisa Montague, venture company — Mulberry Asia and Japan, she said.

A GOOD SPORT: Although Domenico De couture week in Paris. The duo, who Sole has been keeping a low profile shot Vuitton’s fall 2000 ready-to-wear since his exit as Group chief in spots on a cadre of supermodels, also Fashion Scoops April and moving from London to lensed the first piece of fine jewelry South Carolina, he is hardly staying Jacobs ever made for the French PRIZE : The Material Girl is LEAPIN’ HIGHER: Hip-hop mogul still. Asked about De Sole’s brand: a charm bracelet famously the first to get her hands on Prada’s Damon Dash is getting active. Dash whereabouts at Gucci’s annual meeting modeled by Kate Moss in 2001. But new handbag for the fall- has purchased the license for Pro- in Amsterdam on Thursday, Allan Tuttle, while Diane Kruger, Christina Ricci and season — a custom-made version Keds brand footwear in partnership Gucci’s general counsel, said, “He’s other stars populate the main Vuitton Madonna was recently spotted with Tom Nasto of Endurance, the moving around a lot.” He related that campaign this fall, Jacobs has opted carrying to a party Demi Moore New York-based firm which also De Sole was spotted among the fans at for models to wear the jewelry. threw for her Kabbalah buddies. produces Dash’s athletic line, Team a recent European Cup soccer match, “Three fresh faces,” he promises. The one-of-a-kind envelope-shaped Roc, as well as Rocawear’s big and in Lisbon, cheering for Italy, of course. shoulder bag is made of python and tall collection. “I’m planning to “The camera panned the fans and GO EAST: Fashion is definitely crocodile skin, featuring jet and revamp the line,” Dash said. “But I there was Domenico,” Tuttle said. becoming a moveable feast — and Swarovski crystals mounted on a will bring it back to retro as well as two couturiers are off to Japan later grosgrain base. Miuccia Prada’s work to establish ourselves as an BLING THING: Marc Jacobs just put the this year for runway shows. Christian signature robot charm and a black athletic company.” Dash said he finishing touches on one Louis Vuitton , feting a new boutique in Tokyo this leather key chain dangle from the plans to design a limited-edition line campaign — and so it’s on to the September, plans to reprise its July detachable handle. Other versions of footwear specifically for next. Soon he will reunite with couture show. And Karl Lagerfeld, of the bag, which comes in color trendsetters in both athletics and photographers Ines van Lamsweerde heading east for the opening of the new combinations like cobalt and violet fashion. He also plans to design and Vinoodh Matadin to shoot the Chanel building in Ginza in December, or burnt orange, are hitting stores special-edition shoes to work with the forthcoming ads for Vuitton’s fine plans to unveil on the occasion his now. Team Roc and Rocawear lines. Madonna with her custom Prada bag. jewelry, officially being launched during next “satellite” collection. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM Innerwear Report Italian Firms: No China Syndrome

By Luisa Zargani based on data from Werner International, a Virginia-based house requires constant meetings to develop a product, and management consulting firm specializing in the fiber, clothing a geographically distant licensee would hinder production. MILAN — Italian innerwear manufacturers and designers and textile industries. “Yes, there are faxes and e-mails, but you can’t beat are banking that quality will win out over cost when global For this reason, “production in China is destined to sitting at a table with your producers to discuss whether a textile and apparel quotas are phased out for the 147 increase and Western will rely more on the pleat should go here or there,” said Dinelli. “Our licensee, members of the World Trade Organization come Jan. 1. handicraft and the lower cost of labor there,” said Armando Le Bonitas, has a tradition of working with designers, so it’s Relying on a tradition of luxury and creativity — as well as a Branchini, vice president of InterCorporate, a luxury goods used to paying attention to their schedules and needs. An defense of the exclusivity of the Made in Italy label — the analyst based in Milan. innerwear line is a satellite for a designer, but it is industry is looking at expanding its exports to China, while not Masotti does not underestimate the threat China poses nevertheless important.” rushing in to take advantage of the country’s low-cost production. as far as production, but he is in a wait-and-see mode. Meantime, La Perla’s Masotti is banking on increasing While aware that low-cost competition from China will “China is definitely a big competitor, but the future retail revenues in China. Supported by the success of the become more intense, the Italians are confident their depends on how businesses will be managed and on the brand’s Hong Kong store, which Masotti described as doing customer won’t trade for a more mass-oriented product. agreements stipulated by the international community, the “amazingly well,” La Perla will open a store in Shanghai by “For a high-end product, the quality is not rebalancing of the cost of labor and so on,” he said. the end of the year, followed by one in Beijing, probably next comparable,” said Alberto Masotti, owner of Bologna- Federico Dinelli, licensing manager at Versace for the year. Production in China, on the other hand, is not an based Gruppo La Perla. “Our customer wants creativity, designer’s innerwear and beachwear lines, said a fashion option for La Perla at the moment. uniqueness and new proposals.”

Blumarine’s semisheer beach triangle bra and bikini made in Italy. Stefania Saviolo, co-director of an MBA fashion management program at Bocconi University in Milan, said in the high-end market, 240 brands the construction of innerwear pieces and the special finishings are 70 new ones to discover pivotal and part of Italy’s tradition. “It’s fundamentally all about A new fl oor to explore innovation and specialization,” said Saviolo. “This is a business that is typically under license, as its know- how is extremely specific and technologically advanced. It is capital intensive rather than labor intensive, and in this sense, China does not have more of an advantage.” Saviolo listed seamless tech- nology and bras made with materials that release beneficial elements, such as moisture management, as recent successful improvements in the sector. “The know-how is in Italy,” said Cristiana Cavalli, brand manager THE Show you must attend ! in charge of licenses at Roberto Cavalli. “Just as with our apparel line, our innerwear collections heavily depend on the exclusive patterns and prints developed at our companies in Tuscany, in Florence and Prato. These cannot be reproduced outside [Italy] with the same quality.” Gianni Busanna, sales manager at Le Bonitas, based in Prato, which produces and distributes innerwear and beachwear lines for Blumarine, Versace and Ungaro, said, “The August 1, 2, 3, 2004 complexity of the construction and fit, and the image of a Made in Italy product, necessarily limit the New York manufacturing of innerwear collections to this country.” New Floor ! The Italian industry will mainly have to compete with China’s The Summer principal asset: its low-cost manufacturing power. An Italian worker costs a company an average Gallery of $15.80 an hour, while China’s average wage costs range from 40 cents for mainland labor to 70 cents Altman Building & Metropolitan Pavilion on the coast. The salary scales are 135 West 18th Street, between 6th and 7th Avenues according to statistics supplied by Italy’s consortium of apparel and www.lingerie-americas.com [email protected] textile firms, Sistema Moda Italia, 10 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Accessories Report Hope Newman De Beers’ Breakfast Treats LONDON — They may have been displayed like creative director Reema Pachachi. “It’s also a chocolates on three-tiered silver trays, but De vintage look, with a twist.” Beers LV’s new treats are for the eyes only. The rings will go on sale in September, De Beers LV launched two with prices that start at $1,135 for a flower capsule collections during a pendant made from five, round-brilliant breakfast here Thursday at diamonds set in white gold. The most Claridges. Both have a expensive piece is a white gold brooch with vintage vibe and are a 19 diamonds at $29,800. departure from the brand’s Meanwhile, a De Beers LV spokeswoman classic diamond pavé. confirmed that the opening of the first De The first, Corsage, fea- Beers LV unit in New York has been tures pear-shaped, princess- postponed until mid-2005. It cut and round-brilliant will be on the corner of Fifth diamonds in the shapes of Earrings Avenue and 55th Street. single flowers on rings, from the “We wanted to learn pendants and earrings. The Corsage lessons from the Tokyo and second, Cocktail Fizz, is a collection. London stores before we series of rings with clusters opened New York,” she said, of diamonds in an array of shapes and sizes. adding that Guy Leymarie, The settings are low and flat, and the the company’s new chief executive diamonds wrap around the finger. officer, wanted to spend more time on, and be “I wanted to find a way for the diamond more involved with, the New York project. shapes to be seen and read,” said De Beers’ — Samantha Conti

A bag from Benetton’s Benetton Bags Break In resort collection. NEW YORK — United Colors of Benetton is getting ready to show its stripes by taking its accessories to the main floor. For the first time in its 39-year history, the Italian apparel brand is offering its accessories Yomo Wraps Up collection to U.S. retailers in a distribution

PORTRAIT BY KYLE ERICKSEN; HANDBAG BY DAVID TURNER DAVID ERICKSEN; HANDBAG BY KYLE BY PORTRAIT deal with New York-based firm La Bella By Emily Holt she has an obsession with Japan, she in- Borsa. A handful of stores already sists she just believes the best design, have placed orders for late fall and NEW YORK — Fur stoles may be back for graphic and otherwise, originates there). holiday, and the coming accessories fall, but not everyone is willing to go that With her assistants, she lays out layer market in August will be Benetton’s route. And yet, fashionistas are looking for upon layer of combed and dyed wool and official wholesale debut. something beyond the pashmina. Designer silk. After soaking and pressing it so the The firm successfully wholesales Hope Newman thinks she has just the thing liquid penetrates the fibers, she rolls it up goods in nearly 100 other countries with her new accessories collection, Yomo, in a bamboo mat much like a giant sushi (the only other category wholesaled a line of scarves and bags made from hand- roll until it’s dry. Because it’s made with in the U.S. is fragrance). The delayed pressed wool and silk, a material for which water, she said, the fabric can’t be ruined move into the U.S. was economical, Newman has a patent pending. in rain, sleet or snow. said Paola Ugolini, Benetton’s sales A former graphic designer, Newman The colorful silk appears like paint and marketing manager for North and began her business when freelance work streaks on the wool when it’s finished. Central America. slowed down. With no fashion back- Because of her strong use of color, “The American market suffered a lot after Sept. 11 [2001] and we wanted to ground, she researched art techniques Newman said her scarves, which whole- wait until the right time,” Ugolini said. “[The U.S.] is getting into a much better sit- and began working with raw wool and sale from $30 to $140, and bags, $140, uation now, economically.” silk. After six months working in her The sell to all ages. Younger customers, she The company’s 150 retail boutiques in the U.S. are not large enough to show- studio on New York’s Lower East Side, poppy said, go for lighter, brighter colors, case the vast accessories collection, which ranges from luggage and handbags Newman developed a process that al- bag. whereas older customers want to office goods and umbrellas, and have only carried a few items, which ex- lowed her to press the wool and something more subdued. plains why Benetton’s accessories presence here previously has been minimal. silk to create a thin, light, and While the broad range may Richard Siskind, chief executive officer of La Bella Borsa, expects retailers to soft new material (“yomo”is be good for business, it was buy a broad range of the collection and in-store shop concepts could come Japanese for “wool”). hard for Newman to grasp. “I down the road. Though she claims to be found out [my customer] was Even though department stores’ accessories main floors have become more the first to make the fabric everybody, which sort of crowded, Benetton has some advantages over lesser-known lines. Already a $2 bil- thin and lightweight, she’s threw me off. With my back- lion brand, it has a well-established image and customer base due to its controver- not the first to have discov- ground [in graphic design], sial advertising campaigns and large retail presence. ered the material. A hand- I’ve been taught to know the The collection is priced from $16 for a makeup case to $350 for a large suitcase. ful of more experienced de- demographic.” While luggage comprises nearly 30 percent of the business, according to signers who Newman has found on Yo mo sells in about 100 stores na- Siskind, it’s likely retailers will make handbags the bulk of their buy. Retailing the Internet use the same combination of tionwide, from contemporary art muse- from $25 to $120, the bags range from sparkly turquoise vinyl to a more subdued wool and silk. But Newman thinks their ums to specialty shops such as Swallow in tan canvas. There are enough bags within each look that a store can tailor its se- training worked against them. Brooklyn, and is expected to bring in lection based on its customer. “I had no preconceptions about what $600,000 at wholesale next year, Newman Siskind said stores will be able to bring in “a well-recognized multinational this material could do. I have no textile said. brand without having to change the concept of the whole store.” degree, I knew nothing,” said the 34-year- Next on her agenda is continuing her He declined to disclose sales projections for the first year, but said he expects old Boston native. “But I think that work in lighting fixtures. She’s made a to do “very, very big business, especially from the first indications we’ve had.” helped, because everybody else was handful of lamps, available at Sublime in La Bella Borsa also will act as wholesale distributor for accessories under thinking, no, this isn’t possible.” TriBeCa, using her material and steel Benetton’s fashion-forward brand, Sisley. That collection will hit stores next Newman has named the process of cre- bases. “When I’m playing with the stuff, spring. ating the textile “kemuri,” which is the fabric is so thin that it looks so cool — E.H.

Japanese for featherlight (if it sounds like with the light shining through it.” JOHN AQUINO BENETTON PHOTO BY

TIME TRAVELERS: Cartier, Alfred Dunhill and Montblanc will be among Maggy Siegel, president and chief executive officer. Prior to his appointment, Farley spent eight 10 watchmakers to show “Montres et Merveilles,” an exhibition on fine years as vice president of sales for Echo Design Group. FINDINGS watchmaking in Beijing. Organized by Compagnie Financière Richemont AG, which owns all three brands, over 600 PICNIC PERFECT: At Hermès’ annual Prix de Diane horse race earlier this month, thoroughbred pieces will be featured to illustrate the history of watchmaking. Situated in the Temple of Tai Miao, fillies made their rounds on and off the track. At the event, held at the hippodrome of the the Sept. 21-25 exhibition is a partnership between Richemont and the Beijing City Council, the Chateau de Chantilly outside of Paris, stylish women parading around the historical grounds set Chinese Watch Association and The People’s Palace of Culture. loose their millinery imaginations. The bonnets were a treat to behold, especially when their Other Richemont brands exhibiting will be IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, A. Lange & Sohne, Officine wearers settled down to feast on picnics of biscuits, berries and champagne. Panerai, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget and Baume & Mercier. Among the posh picnickers were Edouard de Rothschild, Madame Carven and an elegant Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermès, sporting a top hat. The Polish-themed festivities included vodka FARLEY JOINS JUDITH LEIBER: Terence Farley was named vice president of U.S. wholesale sales for tasting, parades of Polish costumes and vaulting equestrian shows choreographed by Karoline Judith Leiber, replacing Kim Haudenschield, who has left the company. Farley will report to Wajda, daughter of the Polish film director Andrzej Wajda. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM Financial WWDComposite Stock Index vs. S&P 500 Weekly Stock Index 52-Week P/E Sales Amt High Low (000s) Last Change Retailers 39.34 23.07 Abercrombie & Fitch 17.9 72966 39.12 1.45 29.71 14.07 Aeropostale 26.7 56423 27.92 -1.51 31.43 18.02 Ann Taylor 16.9 68558 29.31 0.91 24.33 12.43 Bebe 28.1 4952 21.05 0.67 5.97 0.76 Bluefly - 3389 2.12 0.04 17.95 4.77 Bon-Ton 13.5 6412 15.30 -0.69 22.50 17.25 Burlington Coat 17.5 2225 19.20 0.18 23.63 8.74 Cache 17.2 12353 14.53 -1.14 25.50 17.05 Cato 15.2 3034 22.40 0.22 21.94 9.18 Charlotte Russe 30.2 38914 21.75 2.56 8.76 4.59 Charming Shoppes 16.6 47891 8.49 -0.19 47.60 20.20 Chico’s FAS 35.9 47272 45.66 2.12 32.85 17.01 Children’s Place 21.7 11484 23.44 0.39 43.00 27.24 CVS 18.6 88846 41.34 -0.62 27.01 17.58 Deb Shops 24.3 1942 23.80 0.40 23.51 12.87 Dillard’s 49.2 48984 22.52 0.26 23.40 16.91 Dollar General 22.0 66477 20.13 -0.17 18.72 12.20 Dress Barn 53.3 5995 17.79 0.59 44.13 26.51 Family Dollar 20.4 102672 31.88 -0.84 55.06 35.75 Federated 12.4 69576 49.18 -1.01 25.72 16.99 Gap 19.8 244798 25.13 0.67 14.80 7.05 Goody’s 13.4 17371 10.01 -0.97 6.48 1.79 Gottschalks 17.7 1226 5.94 0.40 19.58 5.61 Guess 51.4 9049 16.30 -0.03 10.00 0.01 Harold’s Stores - 120 2.65 -0.05 32.30 17.50 Hot Topic 20.2 60570 21.22 1.91 39.13 15.57 J.C. Penney 24.6 150560 38.70 0.85 73.90 21.86 Kmart - 88660 73.82 4.63 65.44 39.59 Kohl’s 25.1 167313 43.20 -2.25 21.65 14.77 Limited Brands 13.6 124886 18.77 0.04 36.48 21.88 May Dept. Stores 19.8 84753 28.45 0.26 SOURCE: DATA NETWORKS, STANDARD & POOR’S 37.87 20.00 Mothers Work 8.6 2955 20.40 -0.83 59.70 35.50 Neiman Marcus 13.7 7782 55.39 0.50 44.63 19.10 Nordstrom 21.4 55224 44.25 2.56 25.78 15.95 Pacific Sunwear 18.2 76406 20.56 0.14 9.70 1.90 Retail Ventures 46.2 14591 8.98 -0.02 32.86 20.86 Ross Stores 18.5 46390 27.98 1.06 17.92 9.63 Saks 23.5 64532 15.40 0.14 56.06 32.62 Sears 3.6 103851 39.25 0.60 Wal-Mart Drags Stocks Down 17.23 12.02 ShopKo 10.5 6754 13.70 -0.02 42.01 22.63 Stage Stores 12.9 9678 41.14 0.30 16.08 5.00 Stein Mart 48.8 22264 16.05 1.50 By Dan Burrows term vision for athletic special- 9.22 6.25 Syms - 6642 9.20 1.15 ty in each other’s brands, Nike 39.39 28.75 Talbots 20.3 12490 38.84 0.62 NEW YORK — The WWD Comp- will continue to be our leading 47.40 36.19 Target 21.4 208850 44.45 -1.54 osite Stock Index fell 1.7 per- performance driver throughout 26.82 17.55 TJX 18.8 120160 25.93 0.67 cent to 1,083.22 from 1,102.13 a the remainder fiscal year,” 61.71 17.28 Urban Outfitters 40.2 36779 60.80 3.64 week ago after a number of Cohen said. 37.42 28.90 Walgreen’s 28.2 148471 35.90 1.00 61.31 50.50 Wal-Mart 25.1 690031 52.51 -3.11 component companies reported While the first-quarter per- 12.99 4.62 Wet Seal - 59901 5.11 -0.49 bad news during an otherwise formance gives the company 10.15 1.95 Wilsons Leather - 18232 4.01 0.01 quiet week. high hopes, Cohen said the most 31.30 19.25 Zale 14.1 18179 26.65 -0.48 The S&P 500 finished the important time has yet to come. week essentially flat, ticking It is the back-to-school sales that Vendors down less than a 10th of a per- will really determine Finish 49.18 33.54 Alberto Culver 32.8 15126 49.10 1.30 45.98 30.47 Avon 29.9 120672 45.43 1.25 cent to 1,134.32 from 1,134.98 Line’s performance. 27.41 19.80 Benetton 29.4 161 22.85 -0.14 last week. As for Nike, the company’s 25.39 17.75 Cherokee 14.4 1870 25.00 0.83 Taking the greatest toll on stock kicked the larger trend 46.01 24.50 Coach 37.2 54071 45.33 2.51 the index was heavily weighted last week, advancing 5.2 percent 59.39 46.81 Columbia Sprtswr 18.0 6140 55.85 0.35 Wal-Mart Stores Inc., as its to $75.31 from $71.62. Investors 34.48 21.44 Del Labs 15.4 796 30.50 0.50 shares plunged 5.6 percent to applauded its fourth-quarter 23.94 12.72 Elizabeth Arden - 12553 21.27 0.75 48.15 32.60 Estée Lauder 31.0 46008 47.10 -0.04 $52.51 from $55.62 a week ago. and full-year results. Indeed, 27.59 15.40 Fossil 17.4 35022 27.01 1.18 The sell-off occurred after a San strong global sales, gross margin 12.00 6.50 G-III 8.8 236 7.97 0.12 Francisco federal judge cleared expansion and a weak dollar al- 38.40 29.18 IFF 18.0 15037 36.93 -0.08 the way for the largest gender lowed the company to double its 33.36 7.00 Inter Parfums 24.6 5165 21.16 -0.95 discrimination lawsuit against a full-year earnings. 39.74 27.98 Jones Apparel 16.5 35151 39.22 0.63 U.S. company in history, poten- Another winner last week 45.10 31.27 Kellwood 15.1 17829 42.98 0.98 tially encompassing 1.6 million was Jones Apparel Group, 37.39 18.90 Kenneth Cole 20.4 3605 34.35 0.55 38.90 32.09 Liz Claiborne 13.7 30590 36.27 1.24 current and former female Wal- Alan Greenspan and the Federal which saw its stock rise 1.6 per- 6.90 2.80 Mossimo 13.5 2364 3.81 0.01 Mart employees. Reserve board are expected to cent to $39.22 from $38.59, due, 33.00 20.15 Movado 17.1 1821 33.00 2.47 Revlon also contributed to finally raise interest rates this week. in part, to the company enter- 78.56 49.60 Nike 20.2 87694 75.31 3.69 the sector’s retreat, as its ing into a $1 billion five-year 2.65 1.31 Novel Denim - 83 1.32 -0.09 shares plunged 6.7 percent to based company reported a 64 revolving bank credit facility. 47.50 19.52 Oxford 24.9 17858 43.41 7.31 $3.18 from $3.41 a week ago. percent increase in net in- Coupled with its extant facility, 29.95 18.68 Perry Ellis 13.8 3605 25.00 1.28 19.95 13.51 Phillips-Van Heusen - 7693 19.10 0.31 Investors lightened their posi- come to $10.6 million, or 43 Jones now has $1.5 billion in 37.05 25.00 Polo Ralph Lauren 20.5 17496 34.86 -0.07 tions after the beauty company cents a diluted share, from committed bank credit, allow- 25.16 14.70 Quiksilver 20.6 39406 24.06 -0.54 cut its full-year earnings and $6.5 million, or 26 cents, in the ing it any number of avenues to 42.95 31.50 Reebok 14.2 45112 37.12 0.63 sales guidance. Sluggish sales year-ago period. Sales climbed pursue growth. 46.56 28.71 Regis 19.8 8908 45.28 0.36 of color cosmetics such as blush 24 percent to $258 million Also up on the week was 3.93 2.05 Revlon - 130196 3.18 -0.23 and lipstick were to blame, from $207.8 million. Comp- Christopher & Banks Corp., 20.39 15.43 Russell 14.5 5307 17.80 0.47 4.76 1.35 Tarrant - 1295 1.49 -0.02 Revlon said. arable-store sales also swell- which added 1.2 percent to 18.25 8.82 Tommy Hilfiger 10.3 20012 15.10 0.36 Adjusted net profits before ed, growing 14 percent. $17.53 from $17.33 a week ago. 8.59 0.90 Tropical Sprtswr - 21080 4.35 1.25 interest, taxes, depreciation Excluding expenses related The increase came despite a 50.37 33.43 VF Corp. 13.2 18939 49.75 2.10 and amortization are now fore- to the attempt to purchase se- first-quarter earnings decline 21.95 12.85 Warnaco - 14436 21.86 0.28 cast at $190 million instead of lect Footaction stores, Finish and a downgrade from Jeffries $200 million. Sales are expect- Line’s net income would have & Co. to “hold” from “buy.” Biggest Percentage Changes ed to grow only 3 percent, far increased 70 percent with dilut- Looking ahead, the dreaded WWDStock Market Index below its previous outlook of 8 ed earnings growing 2 cents to 4 interest rate hike should finally For Week Ending June 25 to 9 percent. cents a share. come to pass this week. The Gainers Close Change Finish Line Inc. also didn’t The performance-footwear Federal Reserve Board is Tropical Sprtswr 4.35 40.32 Oxford 43.41 20.25 help matters when its stock category is the key driver to scheduled to meet June 30, and Composite: Retailers: Vendors: closed the week down 5.5 per- the company’s business, and the market is bracing for the 1083.22 1053.63 1249.74 Syms 9.20 14.29 cent to $30.60 from $32.39. The sales have been positively af- first increase in short-term in- Charlotte Russe 21.75 13.34 drop came despite the compa- fected by higher average sell- terest rates in four years. The Stein Mart 16.05 10.31 ny’s robust first-quarter results, ing price, which grew 5 percent consensus guess is that -18.91 -26.55 31.22 Losers Close Change which were driven by strong for the quarter, said chief exec- Greenspan & Co. will add a Goody’s 10.01 -8.83 sales in athletic footwear, par- utive officer Alan Cohen in a quarter percentage point to Wet Seal 5.11 -8.75 ticularly in the performance statement. 1.25 percent. Cache 14.53 -7.28 category. “Nike Inc. has been an im- —With contributions from Index base of 1000 is keyed to Revlon 3.18 -6.74 For the three months ended portant partner is this growth, Jeanine Poggi closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. Novel Denim 1.32 -6.38 May 29, the Indianapolis- and based on our shared long- and Carrie Melago 12 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Color Brightens a Quieter Moda Prima

By Stephanie Epiro this time we included a chic, sportier line with navy and white stripes and red details — we wanted to do a Massimo Romolini MILAN — The tough Italian economy contributed to lighter, modern look this season,” said Busatto. a decline in visitor numbers at the latest edition of Massimo Spelta, a company that offers knitwear Moda Prima. for younger women under its line, Simona, showed Held June 6-8, the fair attracted 2,936 visitors, its fall-winter 2004-2005 collection in addition to its down from 3,400 at the December edition. spring-summer 2005 one. The reason, according to “The indications from the trend of fair visitors director Massimo Spelta, was to offer customers the closely correspond to [Italian] economic forecasts. opportunity to make last-minute seasonal buys. The particularly adverse world economy created a “There are still clients who are after winter negative effect throughout 2003 — especially in pieces, and we have quick turnaround times of 30 regard to the medium segment,” said Piero Costa, to 40 days of delivery so we can offer that service,” chairman of show organizer EFIMA. said Spelta. While EFIMA said it eventually hoped to increase Simona’s rabbit-fur stoles with satin ribbons dyed attendance at the women’s knitwear and accessories in contrasting colors of lilac and pink and green and show, exhibitors said they feared it wasn’t attracting yellow were selling, as well as summer knit tanks in the number of buyers they wanted to reach. blush pink with crushed satin effects, said Spelta. “This time, we haven’t seen the amount of clients Swarovski crystals were used in several collec- we normally do,” said Stefano Scarselli, export tions. At Barone they were featured as design appli- manager at the Florence-based knitwear com- cations on paper-thin suede, knee-length skirts in pany Mehari, which reduced its space to cream and rose pink and on jean pockets. At about 350 square feet from 500 square Algis, an 83-year-old company from feet in December. Piemonte in northern Italy, Swarovski Director of Moda Prima Luisa crystals were applied onto crisp Pandolfi said the fair would sur- white tanks in designs of boats, vive the current negative eco- flowers and parrots. nomic trend because of the Algis also showed under its niche product it offers. She Andrè Maurice line a collection added the economy’s prospects of multicolored striped knits in were brightening, though it was tanks, T-shirts, and three-quar- too early to talk about a solid ter-length shirts. recovery for the industry. “This type of basic knitwear Suffering a 15 percent loss on always makes up the most of our turnover for 2003, sales manager for sales,” said export manager Monica Venetian knitwear company Mag- Baruscotto. The company recorded a lificio Venezia Paolo Busatto echoed 10 percent increase in sales compared the wait-and-see attitude. “At this fair, with the same time last year because we haven’t seen anyone new and it’s of a strong winter collection, said been very quiet. People say there is a Baruscotto. feeling of resurgence in the air but it’s A look from Carla B. While crystals were popular detail- difficult to tell — I believe it’s not here ing in some collections, pearls were yet,” said Busatto. added to denim jeans at Mehari. The The country showing the least sign of recovery company also showed fine baby blue was Italy, according to Simone Baglioni, sales man- and cream bouclé jackets and flower-print organza ager of Florence-based leather and knitwear com- shirts. Despite selling out of some pieces of its pany Barone. spring-summer line, the company saw a 15 percent “Italy is still in crisis, we are seeing signs of recov- decline in sales for the period compared with 2003. ery in Japan and selling well in England and Spain. It Over in the recently added Moda Prima Inter- may be a bit early for Russia, but I am sure it will be a national section, the show’s layout was adjusted to be strong client of ours in the future,” said Baglioni. more similar to that in the Italian area. The interna- Barone recorded a 10 percent increase on sales tional section was introduced in the December edition last year, but expects sales to be flat in 2004. and featured exhibitors from countries including Exhibitors showed spring-summer 2005 collections China and South Korea. Despite receiving complaints filled with color to catch buyers’ attention. Many from Italian exhibitors during the December show, exhibitors also extended their lines to other products. Pandolfi said she planned to let the international For example, at Carpi-based knitwear company Ella space grow, with several Moroccan companies expect- Lu, designer and owner Graziela Costantini added ed to exhibit next season. At the June edition, the swimwear and caps to her collection. And at Maglificio international area attracted 32 exhibitors, including Venezia, which usually offered conservative knitwear new entrants from India and Nepal. lines for mature clients, a younger, sportier line was “We didn’t invent the competition between Italy created to catch more customers. and China — local exhibitors will get used to it,” “Usually, our product focus is for older women, but said Pandolfi.

certainly been concerned, but half have said they will shift orders to China, while others have said they will disperse orders around the region, but eventual- EUROPE WATCH China Fears Deflated ly increase orders to China.” Anticipation of the end of quotas, they said, resulted in some changes in DOUBLING UP: Antwerp, NEW YORK — Apparel price deflation, concerns about shortages at year-end and how business is being conducted compared with last year. Retailers seem more Belgium’s MoMu fashion shorter lead times were some key issues raised in a recently released Smith willing to buy earlier than before, and contract pricing seems to have stabilized, museum and London’s Barney research report. they noted on the call. Victoria & Albert The report was based on a conference call hosted by retail analyst Deborah Another change has to do with how sourcing companies are doing business with museum are joining Weinswig with the firm’s Asian Pacific group’s Mark Rosenfeld and David Wong. retailers, especially in regard to replenishment needs. forces. In a first-time The report was titled: “Future Apparel Pricing: China and Deflation.” Agreements between retailers and the lead sourcing firm Li & Fung, for example, collaboration, the two Rosenfeld and Wong “estimate that price deflation” will be in the mid-sin- are requiring shorter lead times and smaller quantities to address the needs of the museums will curate a gle-digit range following the lifting of retailer. This is also occurring in Central joint exhibit entitled quotas on China in 2005. They also We would expect retailers to buy America and southern Europe. The analysts “Malign Muses: When said some retailers are concerned also noted that China’s low labor costs, plus Fashion Turns Back.” over the possibility of product short- less“ before the lifting of quotas and improved supply chain technologies, have The exhibit showcases ages at the end of 2004. Typically, forced shorter lead times, which led analysts to more than 80 garments when the quota is used up at year- then buy more in January 2005. conclude that “retailers could now have 12 to taken from the end, manufacturers borrow from the 20 seasons rather than four per year, as orders permanent collections of following year’s quota. With the lift- — Smith Barney research” report are much more frequent, but smaller in size.” both museums and is ing of quotas, there will be nothing Subsequently, the analysts said the abili- meant to underscore the left to borrow from. ty to reduce lead times on the supply side will depend on how much more retail- links between fashion The analysts said they didn’t believe there would be any serious problems ahead ers are willing to pay for the goods. Lead times could be “very low,” for example, and historical dress. The because there’s “plenty of supply and capacity in the factories.” However, they’ve if retailers are willing to spend money on air freight once the goods are manufac- exhibit runs from Sept. noticed some U.S. retailers hedging their bets by shifting orders to other countries to tured. For department stores, the analysts projected lead times could shorten to 18 until Jan. 30 at the minimize any possible impact that might occur. Some countries benefiting from their four to five months, down from the current six months, over the next few years. MoMu, and then is quota-free status are Cambodia, Bangladesh and Mexico. The expectation is that a The analysts pointed out, however, that items subject to replenishment slated to travel to the temporary shift to these quota-free countries would happen during the short term. As might be the exception because of unpredictable demand within a 12-month contemporary space of the dust settles, the expectation is that sourcing would move back to China. period. Those goods tend not to be sourced from China, where additional ship- the V&A from Feb. 22 “We would expect retailers to buy less before the lifting of quotas and then ping time is required to complete the process. until May 8. buy more in January 2005,” the analysts said in the report. “U.S. retailers have —Vicki M. Young — Emilie Marsh Underneath It All.

WWDIntimates Coated Stock Magazine: August 23 Close: July 12

From sporty to lacy, full coverage to barely there, WWDIntimates puts the spotlight on what’s underneath.

This is the only glossy, fashion-driven publication dedicated to turning what’s usually hidden into what’s top-of-mind for retail decision-makers and fashion-savvy women.

Bonus Distribution: Mailed to qualified consumers in major metro markets, and distributed through select retailers and intimate specialty stores nationwide.

For more information on advertising, contact Joel L. Fertel, associate publisher, at 212-630-4573, or Elizabeth Haynes, european advertising director, at 01133144511303 WWDMediaWorldwide® 14 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004

GIVENCHY ELLEN TRACY ROUND THE CLOCK EVAN PICONE LEGWEAR IS BACK ! Established Woman’s Fashion Legwear & Bodywear company seeks experienced, independent, motivated sales representatives to sell our collections to Department, Shoe & Specialty Stores. Most territories open. Prefer an individual currently selling apparel or accessory lines and have either a field sales organization or a showroom in any of the regional markets. Please send resume with current lines being carried and why you feel you are right for us. Fax or E-mail to JBT Group, Attn Sales Reps: 212-764-3475 / [email protected] SKAGEN DENMARK Arteffects ! •watches •accessories •home •office •gifts FABULOUS FOOTWEAR is seeking qualified individuals and managers for the following positions: 18 year old contemporary Women’s & Jr. Footwear Co. seeks Accessory Reps with •Sales• est’d. clientele in the following areas: •Northern California •Southern California Showroom / Office / Retail Account Executives - National Accounts •Texas Metro •Southeast •Northeast We find you space-best deal-no fee Sales Mgr. - National ASI/Premium Incentive •Midwest. Sublet 525 7th/ready New price point line 1 year old and explod- Garment Center Real Estate •Product Management• ing with rapid growth. Contact Lou at: Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Tel: 404-369-1286 / Fax: 770-888-4442 Handbags•Eyewear•Executive gifts E-mail: [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts Positions are based in Reno/Tahoe, NV BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Relocation/Insurance/401K Benefits Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Please email resume & references to: ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 [email protected]

Designer Jewelry manufacturer / importer seeks DIRECTOR - qualified designer with 1-2 years exp RETAIL STORES in jewelry design or product develop- Showroom Sublet-Brand New ment. Excellent sketching & technical 171 Madison 3800 FT Wood Floors Loro Piana, a leading luxury drawing required. Fax resume / salary Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 retailer, seeks a Director who history: Search-www.manhattanoffices.com (718) 609-2726 or email to will oversee the operations [email protected] for a ten-store retail chain. Candidate must have a min. Design Team Leader of 5+ yrs-related exp. in the Foremost Fashion Luggage & Accessory luxury retail market managing Co. seeks creative leader to manage team a multi store environment. of 6+ Designers; coordinate the disci- Responsibilities will include plines in each creative area with the team and the Asian factories. Northern NJ assuming overall responsibility location. Fax/E-mail resume/salary to: a division of Carole Hochman Designs for the operations of the 973-812-3196 / [email protected] Foundations Technical Designer retail stores, developing, SR. DSGNRS - JR/MISSY BAGS HI $ ACQUISITION MINDED COMPANY building and achieving busi- Est’d Co’s seeks exp’d SR Designers for Betsey Johnson Intimates offers an exciting opportunity for a ness goals as well as ensuring branded and P/L product. Travel. Seeking immediate opportunities customer service levels meet with companies that have current computer savvy technical designer with great communication A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. skills and a passion for foundations to join our new team. and exceed expectations. Ex- 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 sales, and in particular 3rd & 4th tensive travel required. Must quarter to combine its own pro- This position offers the rare opportunity to partner w/Design on initial development specs through final production. Our have demonstrated leadership grams. We have excellent LDP skills, a record of effective sourcing capabilities from overseas staff at Carole Hochman Designs includes the best and the brightest in the industry. We pride ourselves in recruiting and team building and strong resources with complete turnkey analytical skills. facilities. We can move quickly on retaining top talent. Carole Hochman Designs has an impres- all aspects, from finances through sive portfolio of brands including; Betsey Johnson Intimates, Please submit resume with logistics. Please reply in confidence: Lauren by Ralph Lauren, , Jockey, Esprit salary requirement to: Fax: 201-391-6305 and Nine & Company as well as an extensive private label Director, Human Resources business. Jersey + Rib Lycra Loro Piana, 46 E. 61 St Fleece + Velour Qualified candidates will have experience in Intimate Apparel, New York, N.Y. 10021 Drake Fabrics specifically Foundations - Bras & Panties. Require a strong [email protected] 718-389-8902 knowledge of patternmaking skills, ability to translate Design- Fax 212-826-2302 er’s sketches into detailed specs and able to manage multiple priorities and meet deadlines. Able to manage fit sessions. PATTERN/SAMPLES Strong team player. Excel skills are a must. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast If you have the qualifications, have a passion for technical Apparel Trim Components work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 details and like to work in a dynamic team environment, Major global mfr. seeks an energetic & Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. motivated Account Executive to work out No Lot Too Big or Too Small. please send your resume and salary requirements to: of our NYC office calling on existing & Call CLOTHES-OUT: prospective accounts - major apparel (937) 898-2975 PATTERN / SAMPLES BJI Technical Designer @ 212-725-8723 brands & retailers - to promote our global Superior quality for an Affordable price. or email:[email protected] offer, services, and capabilities. Experi- ence in denim, trim management, techni- 212-302-8095 cal design and/or apparel construction Accounting Immed aplus.Competitive benefits package. Costing Salary commensurate with experience. $45,000 Please Fax resume to: 212-561-6468 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] PRODUCTIONS All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Administrative & Production Assistant PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Apparel sourcing company seeks smart energetic production & admin. asst. ARTIST PRODUCTIONS for liaison with top apparel customers High volume Childrenswear Co. seeks Samples and patterns full servcie shop Oscar de la Renta, a luxury sleepwear line of Carole & front office management. Fashion creative artist for infant/ toddler girl to the trade. Fine fast work. background an asset. Basic computer denim driven product. Must be able to 212-869-2699. Hochman Designs, is currently in search of a talented skills & multi-tasking a key requirement. identify trend & have excellent color Designer/Design Associate to join our creative team. Must Fresh fashion graduates welcome! sense. Photoshop/ Illustrator needed. have at least 3-4 years of design background in the lingerie Please fax resume to: (212) 967-2097 Min 3 yrs exp. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD or couture market with high taste level and good color sense. Fax 212-967-8631 Att: LT High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Must be capable of working in a team environment as well Admin. sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 as independently. Strong understanding of sourcing trims Showroom Administrator and working with laces and embroideries are also required. Handbag Co. seeks upbeat, organized, Candidate should possess a positive attitude, willing to learn responsible team player for general office Assistant Production and generous in contributing creative ideas. Should be self duties. Must have Word/Excel knowledge, and be able to maintain all aspects of Manager: motivated with problem solving and organizational skills. the showroom. Fax resume: 212-239-0432 Major Co. seeks organized, detailed oriented person to assist with Will work closely with division’s design director. This is a all aspects of Oversea Production. tremendous opportunity with great growth potential for the Duties include follow-up cutting FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 right candidate. Qualified candidates can fax resumes to: Apparel Staffing, Ltd. ticket, production schedules, and fab- Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews *PRODUCTION*DESIGN* rics and trimmings. Bi-Lingual Rush Service Available ODLR Designer 212-725-8723 *TECH DESIGN*GRAPHIC DESIGN* (Chinese/ English) speaking and min. PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. *MERCHANDISING* 3 years experience in fashion industry (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 or email: [email protected] See career listings @www.apparelstaffing.com a must. www.resumesforfashion.com Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 Fax resume to: 212-967-8018 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2004 15

Designer/Merch.to 100K+ Men’s Loungewear/Underwear Production Coordinator Director of Sales Showroom Sales For established company’s "hot" branded Excellent opportunity for an experienced, Mfr./Importer of Branded Jr. Knit Tops urban licensed lines (dept./specialty take-charge individual at a fast growing, &Sleepwear seeks exp’d. Sales Pro for stores) Req: expr designing/merch. men’s midtown Apparel Packaging Accessories its NY Showroom. Must be energetic, (prefer Urban) lounge, underwear, ability Co. Duties include order placement, MONDI willing to travel, and have existing con- BENETTON to manage other artists, strong Illustra- tracking, and coordinating shipments. Awellknown brand distributor is looking tacts in Chain, Specialty & Major Dept. tor /Photoshop skills. Candidates must possess strong organi- for a seasoned sales executive with cus- Stores. Minimum 2 years showroom sales LUGGAGE, E-mail resume: [email protected] zational skills with attention to details. exp. req’d. Fax or E-mail resumes to: (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 Must be able to interface with vendors, tomer relationship in the bridge and 212-719-9328 / [email protected] HANDBAGS & ACCESSORIES sales staff, and overseas offices. Knowl- designer ready-to-wear market. Must Benetton is seeking a BRAND MANAGER Foundation edge of Excel, Word, and apparel appli- have minimum 5 years experience, SLS - BOYS 2/20 - SPTS HI$ who can assist with the launch of Luggage, cations are essential. Please E-mail all strong organizational skills and be Handbags, and Accessories in the USA. resume with salary requirements to: Maj. impt’r seeks exp’d SLS PRO to Designers Immed Technical Designer Must have 5 years experience in Sales [email protected] computer savvy. If you meet these sell MID-TIER Accts. with relationships in the Better Dept. Technical- patterns $80K Great opportunity for a very talented, qualifications, please fax your resume to: A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. and Specialty Chain markets. Please $60K self-motivated, detail oriented bra design- Technical- sweaters $60K er to join a fast growing California based Production Immed 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 Fax or E-mail resume to: Menswear (212) 391-9559 212-840-8333 / [email protected] Asst- men/boys $40K Lingerie Company. A minimum of 10 [email protected] years experience with strong organiza- $90,000 SWEATER SALES CAD Artist to $70K. Current exp. in tional skills as well as deadline oriented [email protected] EMMELLE Head of Men’s & Women’s Sweater primavision 5.2 Photoshop/Illustrator. for a fast paced environment is required. Sales. Exp. Rqrd. Must have technical Strong in Full Fashion sweaters, jackards, Creative innovation with design execution Production Manager SALESPERSON knowledge of yarns, computer literate prints, stripes, plaids, embroideries etc. from concept to production is essential. Madison Avenue Designer Boutique & travel rqrd. Missy JR & girls. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy DESIGNER Required talents and experience include; Costume Jewelry seeks sales associate with a minimum Please fax resume: 215-739-5150 Size 4-16 Designer wanted to work in technical knowledge of bras, first pattern Looking for min 10 years exp. in set up of 3 years experience. Must be highly Girls Sportswear Division. Great opportu- making, draping, grading, fitting, garment of overseas factories, line prod, inventory motivated and professional. Part time. Category Manager control. Looking to move facility to Seeking category manager to work direct- nity for creative, organized individual. construction, measurement and sewing Please fax resume to: 212-249-1427 Must have exp. in the children’s mar- specs (ALL a MUST). Please Fax or Central or South America. Huge ly wih executive and sales staff in analysis growth potential both professionally of product performance, MDSE, replen- ket. Comprehensive sportswear line E-mail resume to: Judith Ripka Companies with concentration on knit tops & 818-349-5502 / [email protected] and personally. Rapid expansion of ishment & inventory maintenance. Must company and need person with the Seeking the Best in Class!!! have superior knowledge of corporate sweaters. Computer, design exp. a must. Unique opportunity to join a team of Sales Fax resume to 212-869-2781 Attn: Cathy right exp. to develop new system. selling/planning tools such as retail GRAPHIC ARTIST Spanish speaking nec. Pros at a flagship Madison Ave., Short Hills, link, partners-on-line, Sears business Large childrenswear company is look- Please fax resume and salary history NJ, East Hills, LI, locations. 3+ years of exchange, ect. 3 years exp req. Some ing for a Graphic Artist with experi- to: 212-625-8345 luxury sales exp. req’d. with polished travel involved. Great benefits! ence in infant/toddler girls. Will work presentation/exceptional communication Fax resume w/sal history to: Designer closely with entire design team. Indi- skills and proven track record. Strong 212-244-5897, Attn: VP WANTED: INNOVATIVE DESIGNER vidual must have good MAC skills and Production Manager client following a must. Excellent benefits Fast growing Intimate & Sleepwear Co must be proficient with Photoshop/ Fast paced children’s importer seeks package & high income earning potential Design Asst Immed (w/ licensees incl. Chinese Laundry) is Illustrator. Fax resume 212-239-2766. production manager w/ 10 + yrs importing available. Cosmetic or fashion exp. is a Sweaters looking for a Creative & Fun Designer exp. of quality branded merchandise from +++++ Please send resumes: The industry leader in headwear is $35,000 to develop a new line. Must have 2-4 far east in knits /wovens and sweaters Attn: Theresa @ Fax: (212) 244-4560 seeking experienced sales representa- [email protected] years experience with intimates - bras, GRAPHIC DESIGNERS $$$ for our national branded lines. Candidates tives with strong relationships with panties, etc. Must work well w/ others. All levels of exp. Established children’s must also have comprehensive knowledge specialty and better department Design Director $120-$130K. Current exp. Email resume: sleepwear firm is looking for experi- and exp. in fabrics/yarns, knitting /weaving, stores. We are launching our new bag in private label missy woven and knit [email protected] enced graphic designers. Photoshop/ garment construction, printing, import and eyewear extensions. We have terri- sportswear. Superivse designers in fashion Illustrator. License experience a plus. production lead times and production tory opportunities available in multi- vision. Helpful to hang w/ Emma James, Email: [email protected] or schedules etc. Must be able to direct, ple states throughout the USA. Coldwater Creek, Christopher Banks, etc. Design Call Cindi: 212-947-3399 x16 or supervise and motivate a staff to in- For consideration pls email your Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Fax: 201-894-1186 sure timely delivery/execution and resume to [email protected] Exciting Opportunity! KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS quality of a national branded line. Travel Designer $100-$120K. Cuirrent exp. in Major West Coast Denim Co. seeks inno- required and travel experience a must. vative DESIGNER for JUNIOR JEANS Imports Immed Fax resume to 212-658-9149 Attn:Eric womens casual sportswear. Woven+ knits. Leading Intimate Apparel Manufacturer Must hang w/ Liz Clairborne, Jones Appa- LINE. Candidate needs to contribute to Manager $70’s or e-mail [email protected] the development of seasonal lines, con- Asst $26K seeks a seasoned Account Executive to rel, August Silk, etc. Travel to India, China. manage & grow existing accounts and Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency cepts, and consumer relevant product [email protected] opportunities. Support the development, PRODUCTION open new business opportunities. Qualified candidates have a min. of 5 VP of Sales Designer $125-150K. Current exp. in evolution, and communication of a brand Major established Company seeks look. Domestic & overseas travel. Must MERCHANDISE MANAGER yrs of wholesale/retail buying experience private label moderate woven women’s in dept. or specialty stores. Intimate sales professional with department sportswear. Must hang w/ Kazu, Bonnie be able to work in a fast-paced & fun PLANNER/ANALYST Import and domestic ladies contempo- store (Dillard’s, May, Federated) back- environment. Please E-mail resumes to: rary sportswear: Wovens and Knits. Apparel background preferred. Candidate and Norma, Yellowriver, J. Suzette, Ban- Loro Piana, a leader in the manufacturing must have strong retail, analytical, and ground in kids. Must have account ner Ind., FOB, Hi Fashion, CMT, Signe, [email protected] &distribution of the finest quality Create/monitor calendars, negotiate relationship, be results oriented and pricing, purchase bulk fabric/trim, fa- computer skills and a proven track record burbank, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy textiles, ready to wear & accessories of building customer relations. Travel req. have excellent communication and has an outstanding opportunity available cilitate import shipping, manage prod- organizational skills. Three years uct coordinator. Great opportunity for Please send resume w/ salary req to: minimum experience required. Design in their US wholesale division. The ideal [email protected] Designer $65-$80K. Current exp in mens den- candidate will have a min. of three amotivated team player. Candidate Excellent salary and benefits. im bottoms. Good knowldge of washes, finish- Fashion Jewelry Designer - NY years experience in merchandise must be computer literate, organized, Fax resume to 212-239-2766 es, fabrics, construction. Must hang w/ Polo, and have excellent communication Creative self starter needed for better planning, forecasting & allocation NOT JUST A JOB- A CAREER DKNY, Guess, Paper, True Religion, Diesel, in a luxury wholesale environment. skills. Minimum 5 yrs experience. Lucky, Mavi, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy contemporary trend brand and private SINCE 1963 label. Must be able to go from concept Responsibilities will include providing Please send resume & salary require- ments: [email protected] Baby- Walmart... to $160K to development. Ability to merchandise internal support for the VP as well as Mens/Boys Walmart... to $160K Designer $90-100K. Current exp. in 2-7 groups and do trend analysis, constantly preparing and analyzing financial data. Kids Athletic team... $80-$120K boys denim based sportswear bringing new ideas to our collections. Travel required. Must have excellent RETAIL MANAGER Mens Outerwear- mid tier- $130K+ required. Must hang w/ Gap, Levis, Must be comfortable in fast paced environ- interpersonal, communication, and Mens Bottoms- mid tier- $130K+ Old Navy, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy ment. Excellent Company with Great computer skills. Please submit resume Store mgr. for Avirex co. store NOHO min.4 yr. exp. must be organized, peo- Account Mgr Federated/ May- $75-$80K Salary & Benefits! Please Fax or E-mail: with salary requirement to: Intimates/ Sleepwear- mid tier $100K Cecile & Jeanne 732-345-9991 / [email protected] ple savy, strong sales motivator, mer- SALES ASSOCIATES Designer $90-$100K. Current exp in Jrs/ Director, Human Resources chandiser. Fax resume 212-575-6962 Sleepwear wholesale clubs- $100K+ email : [email protected] A European leader in fashion jewelry, contemp full fashion sweaters required. Loro Piana, 46 E. 61 St is seeking exceptional, highly motivated Private label or branded OK. Must hang w/ New York, N.Y. 10021 800-544-5878 JUST MANAGEMENT Sales Associates for Full or Part Time Free People, American Rags, Language, etc. [email protected] Sales Assistant floor positions at its exclusive Manhattan Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency Design Fax: 212-826-2302 Assistant to a salesman for a very in- boutiques. Must have a minimum of Separation Artist tensive junior sweater house. Willing three years sales experience in fashion Merchandiser $150-$175K. Current exp. in to work hard and long hours. No exp. SALES MANAGER retail, high-end preferred and have The largest U.S. Gravure printer seeks an girls 7-16. Direct designers w/ fashion needed. Great work environment! Designer/Accessories experienced digital color separation artist. Nationally recognized accessory co. excellent customer communication vision. Strong relationship w/ Wal-Mart. Fax res to 212-391-0881 Attn: Neta looking for a Sales Manager. As the skills. Please fax resume to: Accessories Co. seeks creative child- Knowledge of PhotoShop, Illustrator, or Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency ren’s designer for hair & cosmetics. AVA software a plus, but not mandatory. Sales Manager, you will be focused on (212) 595-5097 Min 3-5 years experience with overseas Sweater and C/S Knit Jobs expansion and profitability. Must have Email: [email protected] Background in textile industry helpful Merchandiser to $100K. Current exp. travel a must. Exc. opportunity for but not essential. Qualified individual 1)Designers & Assist Missy/Jr Swtrs 2)Design Missy strong department store, specialty store long term grown with well established in womens, mens or kids outerwear Knits Tops Embelished 3)Tech & Assist Swtrs and private label relationships. The should be creative, with an eye for design. required. Product devel. Process 1st co. Fx resume 212-302-2753 Attn: Beth This position requires working closely Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) ideal candidate will be able to develop proto’s, counter source fabric, assist and execute sales plans as well as build with the Engraving Manager to develop sales exec. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy projects from initial scan of artwork to and manage a sales team. Minimum final full color separation. Candidates SWEATER DESIGNER 3-5 years experience in the accessory DESIGNER should be professional and self-motivated Ladies, Men & Chldn. Broad technical industry. Excellent growth opportunity with strong communication skills. Excel- PATTERNMAKER knowledge of yarn, fashion trend. Be in a well established company located CHILDREN’S WEAR in the North Bronx. All responses will Est’d fast-growing domestic, importer of lent salary and benefits. Great opportunity for highly motivated expd. in computer design & graph abil- Please fax resume Attn: Pamela individual at a top fashion doll co. ity. Able to work under direction and be kept confidential. Please email resumes children’s 7-14 sweaters and cut & sew [email protected] knits seeks take charge designer with Parnell 212-967-5099 or email: located in the Mid-Hudson Valley. The design to need of customer. min 3 yrs exp. Responsibilities include [email protected] right candidate must be able to make Please fax resume: 215-739-5150 Excellent Oppty color forecasting, line planning & total patterns from designer sketches, sew follow thru from concept to finished own outfits for dolls, be hardworking For Independent Reps and detail oriented. Make the move Tech Designer $70-85K. Current exp. in wom- SALES MANAGER Expanding Canadian Mfr launching sample of coordinated line of swtrs & en’s or men’s outerwear required. Send tech knits. Exp w/ majors a plus. Salary from the fashion industry to the doll Spring 05 well-priced Ladies Contempo- DESIGN TECH industry. Contact Joe Petrollese at: pakages to Far East. Computerized. 7th ave at SUNGLASSES rary Line. Designed & manufactured in commensurate w/ exp. Fax resume: Responsible for creating & maintain- 38th St. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Established moderate sunglass manu- Att: Merchandiser 212-768-7856 845-339-9537. EOE. M/F Europe. Line consists of latest fabrics & ing spec standards for better contempo- facturer, based in NY, has manage- styling w/ Missy fit. We seek sales reps rary women’s line. Arrange/attend fit- ment opportunities in the NY & Mid- w/ established relationships w/ retailers. tings, spec garments, write comments, Product Devel Mgr $100-$120K. Current Tech Designer to $75K. Current exp, in west regions. Salary + expenses + full fashion sweaters. Embellishments, Territories available in Midwest, East & Designer/Designer Asst. G-specs, work with pattern room to pre- exp, in home furnishing reqred. Kitchen + bonus plan. Must have major account West Coast. [email protected] pare cutter’s musts. 3-5 years experi- tables tops textiles, or bedding etc. Ability beads, embroideries. Tech sketching + experience and contacts. Contact: Girls Sportswear Co., seeks highly crea- specs. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Fax resume to 905-881-2125 tive strong individual with excellent or- ence. Please be motivated, organized, to make presentations to accounts as well as Box#C 5001 c/o Fairchild Publications ganization skills. Candidate must be and understand garment construction plan calandar and direct fashion trends. 7 West 34th Street, 4th Flr. for wovens and knits. Will relo to NJ. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy New York, NY 10001 Motivated Road Rep Wtd. exp. on Adobe Photo and Illustrator. Technical Designers Immed Established fashion jewelry designer Varied responsibilities which include Please send resume by e-mail: Best Firms [email protected] seeks Road Rep with NYC & Bklyn. working closely with Merchandiser. Girls/Boys boutique following. New England & Excellent growth opportunity. Production Assistant $60,000 Southeast territory also available. Fax resume to 212-869-2781, Attn: Cathy [email protected] Sales Mgr $BOE. Current exp in JR sports- Better Accessory company seeks person wear collection w/strong relationships Please contact: [email protected] Director of Quality Control with minimum 3 years experience. w/Federated, May, JCPenney etc. Must We are a leading apparel manufacturer Must be computer literate and very or- hang w/Mudd, Mavi, Vanilla Star, Buffalo, ganized. Duties include specing line TRIM BUYER Glow, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Designer - Full/Part-time looking for a Director of Quality Con- Well established, high-end women’s trol. This candidate should have a mini- and hands on domestic production. Sleepwear/Lingerie We are not importers. Email resume fashion designer seeks highly motivated mum of 5 years experience as an appa- individual with 3-5 years experience to Private label import/mfr. seeks designer. rel senior level Quality Control Manag- in confidence w/ salary requirements to: Must be able to merchandise fashion [email protected] purchase production trim. Excellent er. This individual will be responsible communication and follow up skills Salesperson groups including fabric/color, style for Customer Compliance, Testing Pro- Service art studio seeking motivated sketching, specs and executing sam- are a must. The candidate will be cedures, Quality Control Audits and communicating with suppliers both indiv w/sales exp. in hand and CAD. ples with foreign factories. Min. 3 Managing of the Spec Technicians Growth oppty. Sal+comm+benefits. years experience designing knits, satin, Production Assistant domestic and overseas. Computer Dept. This candidate will help define skills required. Please fax resume to Fax resume to: 212-947-4501 is necessary. For immediate con- setting company standards, policies & Emmelle Ladies apparel designer seeks (646) 572-0163 Lingerie Sales Pro sideration, please email resume to: procedures as it relates to Quality Control. Currently seeks a showroom sales posi- [email protected] production assistant. Highly motivated This individual should be well versed individual with 5 years experience in tion with a sleepwear/ loungewear in child safety laws and regulations. retail and manufacturing. Must be company. Strong contacts with special- Should have diverse and extensive detail oriented with good organization- ty, chain, and discount stores. DESIGNER knowledge of Product put-up proce- al, follow-up and communication skill. Call John: 516-536-8576 dures. This position will manage over- Please fax resume to 212-249-1427 Head Technical Designer seas QC personnel. This position requires Childrenswear company seeks experi- overseas travel several times a year. SALES PROFESSIONAL enced Technical Designer with kids Midtown Manhattan / Los Angeles background. Must have knowledge of If you would like to apply for this posi- flat sketching, grading, and garment tion and meet all the job requirements PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Are you creative & goal oriented? construction. Must be detail oriented noted above, please e-mail your re- Major apparel company seeks three We are an international firm that and have good communication skills. sume to [email protected]. No tel- production assistants with 1-2 years designs & produces handbags Good salary and benefits. ephone calls please. EOE experience. Responsibilities include & GWP fashion accessories. tracking of all pre production approval Account Exec $$ Hi Open. Current exp. in Fax resume to 212-239-2766 women’s outerwear with a follwing req’d. We currently seek a relationship submits, processing of all price tickets, builder with Sales Management and ordering/tracking of accessories & Must hang w/ Amorex, G-III, Gallary, Rothchild, Proof, Marvin experience and a proven record of labels. Individual should be detail ori- finding & developing new clients. DESIGNER EDI Specialist ented & have excellent computer skills. Richards, Bromley etc. Lg. expanding co. Major children’s outerwear company Major information technology Fax resume 212-239-2766 with several divisions. Growth oppt’y. If you are a team player and believe seeks Designer with minimum 3 yrs. company seeks responsible person Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy in accountability, and thrive in an experience. Candidate must be self with extensive knowledge of all exciting work environment... motivated, have fresh ideas with good aspects of EDI transactions, IT, Production Coord $40-50K. Current exp. Admin Cust Service Sales we should talk. color sense and able to work in a fast Database, Window system, and woven sportswear req’d.Knowledge of con- 57th St. Women/Men European Designer Learn more about our business, and paced team environment. Knowledge trouble shooting. Must have struction of woven garments. Track and Showroom needs detailed fashion per- apply for this strong opportunity by of Illustrator and Photoshop a must. experience in garment industry, schedule production from inception to son w/min. 3 yrs. apparel showroom viewing our website careers section: Please fax resume attn. LA (212) 997-7996 Fax resume: 212-967-8018 completion. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy experience. Call only: 212-980-0775 www.macher.com So many choices, so little time.

WWDAccessories Perfect Bound Magazine: August 2 Close: July 2 With all the latest accessories in one place, it’s no wonder WWDAccessories has become the hottest read in the category. Make sure your most important retailers and consumers make the right choice this season. Bonus Distribution: newsstand and affluent specialty store customers

For more information on advertising in this special WWD issue, please contact Alix Michel, associate publisher, accessories at 212-630-4596, or [email protected]. WWDMediaWorldwide®