ISSUE #41 FEBRUARY 5, 2021

A Publication of WWD

Wing & Weft's leather gloves Lash Point In an otherwise dismal year for makeup, lashes and brows have been a bright spot in the category. For more, see pages 5 and 6. PLUS: Sharon Chuter’s latest initiative and a 2021 outlook for the British beauty scene.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS MIGGLES ¬ STYLED BY ALEX BADIA ¬ MAKEUP BY KUMA THE BUZZ 2 FEBRUARY 5, 2021 Beauty Bulletin

Uoma Beauty’s Sharon Chuter Calls for Sharon Chuter. Redefining ‘Black’ in ‘Make It Black’ Campaign

¬ A new campaign, called “Make It Ellis Ross as its diversity and Black,” from beauty entrepreneur inclusion adviser, expressed the and activist Sharon Chuter aims to retailer's commitment to “amplify reverse the negative connotations and celebrate Black voices.” The associated with the word “black.” product assortment “can spark In a press conference held via a powerful dialogue, help shift Sharon Chuter aims to redefine "black" and Zoom on Jan. 28, Chuter cited perceptions, and very importantly, raise money for Black-owned businesses. currently listed synonyms for the accelerate future beauty leaders on The fund will not focus much on word “black” — “vile, evil, nefarious, their journeys,” he said in a provided mentorship, as “Black founders are threatening and oppressive” — that statement. very often over-mentored and under- stem from the false, colonial thinking All proceeds from the Make It invested,” Chuter said. that “white is right.” Black campaign will go to the newly The “Make It Black” campaign “We're taking a stand this established Pull Up For Change also comes with a Change.org Black History Month against that Impact Fund, which aims to address petition to rewrite the definitions language,” Chuter told reporters. the lack of investment in Black- $25,000 to $100,000 per founder to and synonyms for the word “black.” The goal of Make It Black is “not only owned businesses. A 2019 report make sure that it can make a change In her open letter to both the Oxford to reject the definitions, but also to by RateMyInvestor and Diversity in their businesses,” Chuter said, English dictionary and Merriam- celebrate the beauty of black, and VC found that out of nearly 10,000 specifying the fund's goal of raising Webster dictionary, Chuter wrote we hope in doing so people can venture-backed founders, more than $5 million in February. that language “should be neutral, actually see that black is beautiful three-quarters were white. About 18 “We are not taking equity in any of unbiased and reflective of our and black means more.” percent were Asian, while 1.8 percent [these] businesses, it is not a loan, current realities.” In conjunction with Chuter's were Latine. Only 1 percent of those they're not required to pay [it] back,” Speaking to reporters, Chuter Pull Up For Change, Make It founders were Black. she said. “The onus is on us to do the offered alternate entries for dictionary Black will partner with Briogeo, In an effort to combat these due diligence to make sure that we definitions of the word “black.” Colourpop, Dragun Beauty, Flower statistics, the Pull Up For Change are giving [grants] to the best ideas.” “Let me tell you what should be Beauty, Maybelline, Morphe, NYX Impact Fund will provide grants, The Make It Black campaign in there to define black: luxury,” Professional Makeup, Pur and Uoma via live pitch contests, to pre-seed approached roughly 30 venture Chuter said. “Black is the color of Beauty, the brand Chuter founded funding stage businesses that might capital firms, including VMG Partners, luxury. That is the reason why The and leads, to repackage each be able to use the money to create where Alisa Williams, one of only Batmobile is black. It's the reason brands' most popular products in prototypes — and receive further a handful of Black women venture why Amex, the highest color is black. black. The limited-edition items will investment. The live pitch contests are capital investors, is a partner. Black is classic, black is timeless, be sold throughout the month of meant to be “completely democratic “[Williams is] helping us pull black is stylish, black is chic. When February via Ulta Beauty's website, and completely transparent,” Chuter together a network of VC firms [and] I say to somebody, 'That person as well as Make It Black and the said. Make It Black's website will also wants to do early-stage [investing] dresses black,' you instantly know participating brands' own channels. display a live, fund allocation tracker so that when we invest in founders, what I'm talking about — you know Dave Kimbell, president of Ulta for transparency's sake. they are on the radar of these firms,” that person has rhythm.” Beauty, which just appointed Tracee “We will be deploying between Chuter said. —Alexa Tietjen

Hair was the only category in prestige Prestige Beauty Sales Fell in 2020 beauty to post growth year-over-year. Year-end numbers from the NPD Group show that e-commerce grew 46 percent in 2020, in spite of market-wide tumbles. BY JAMES MANSO

PRESTIGE BEAUTY SALES dropped Jensen said. “, conditioners as “Makeup has a lot of headwinds. It's up 19 percent in the U.S. in 2020 to $16.1 well as specialty products like masks against a lot.” Jensen said. Lip faced the billion, posting a $3.8 billion loss year- – the segment did well, which is due to steepest drops. over-year, according to year-end data the stay-at-home economy.” Makeup is still the largest category in from the NPD Group. Makeup sales bore the brunt of the prestige beauty, but Jensen predicted Brick-and-mortar declined almost crisis, plummeting 34 percent. The skin care may overtake it by the end 39 percent, said Larissa Jensen, vice challenges the category are of 2021. Skin care sales dropped 11 online: it's a technical category, you president of beauty and industry advisor manifold. “The biggest markets for percent, with the biggest losses in might want to be doing more research at the NPD Group, while digital sales makeup are big cities, which are also creams, eye treatments, serums and to learn more about products,” Jensen increased 46 percent and represented having a harder time with economic lotions. More surprisingly, the typically said. “When the entire industry moved to over 50 percent of sales for both hair recovery from the pandemic. Those staid body category softened skin care's online, they stood to benefit from that. care and skin care for the first time. cities have the steepest makeup losses, along with hand soap, targeted They actually posted growth, the only Bright spots included prestige hair declines,” Jensen said. “The declines skin treatments and facial devices. brand type to grow at 3 percent.” care, which grew 8 percent. Treatment in makeup are dragging the industry, Within skin care, clinical brands As for fragrance, that category fell 8 products like masks did well, while and the industry's recovery is tied to became the largest brand type in sales, percent, but showed resilience in the styling products slowed the category's makeup.” overtaking natural. “Clinical, as a brand second half of the year. “Since August, momentum. “The category was growing Jensen said that in 2020, type, always had a higher penetration fragrance has had positive monthly double-digits and it still did soften,” every segment of color declined. of sales in e-commerce. It makes sense dollar performance,” Jensen said. Product photograph by George Chinsee; Chuter Erik Carter VIRTUAL Digital Forum THE PACESETTERS: TRACKING BEAUTY’S DIGITAL ACCELERATION

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For more information visit fairchildlive.com NEWS FEED 4 FEBRUARY 5, 2021 Beholding Beauty: Report Looks at Impact Of COVID-19 on Industry, Trends to Expect “The power is back in the consumer’s hands,” said Sharmadean Reid, whose company Beautystack is behind a comprehensive survey of beauty trends in 2021, and beyond. BY SAMANTHA CONTI

LONDON — Should beauty brands ditch the influencers, and collaborate among themselves? Should brands “go silent” online every once in a while, and is a post-pandemic punk movement brewing? A new report called Beyond Beauty addresses those questions, and more, and looks at the trends for 2021, and the coming decade. Compiled by the business-to- business and business-to-consumer platform and digital bookings site, Beautystack, and The Digital Fairy, a creative agency and consultancy, it draws on hundreds of surveys of industry players, chiefly in the U.K. Indeed, Beyond Beauty is a state of the union address to the industry, taking in micro and macro movements, new formats, attitudes and habits, and examining the An illustration from the new "Beyond Beauty" report. impact of COVID-19 on brands, stylists, technicians, consumers, groom their brows. Others swapped “This industry is female-employed have now launched their own brands, entrepreneurs and business leaders. glamorous looks for Gothic ones. Reid and female-owned, and it was time and people are tired of the model.” The report was commissioned noted that subcultures always grow to speak up,” said Reid, adding that Yallop also wondered whether big, by Sharmadean Reid, the British- out of crisis and trauma, and said the beauty industry contributed online beauty communities will in Jamaican entrepreneur behind she’s curious to see what aesthetics 28.4 billion pounds in 2018 to the the future give way to smaller, more Beautystack, founder of the former emerge from the COVID-19 era. U.K. economy. private, micro gatherings. WAH Nails salon in London and a The report also talked about the rise “People had to show actionable She believes people are tired of female empowerment advocate. The in unconventional products, including change against their (stated) values,” corporations using algorithms to Digital Fairy is an all-female business Topicals, the skin care brand that said Reid, adding that beauty create communities, and that they that works with brands ranging from specializes in conditions such as consumers were also looking at the will naturally migrate to “niche, gate- Chanel and Estée Lauder to Bleach psoriasis. The brand encourages difference between what brands say, kept, invite-only, safe groups,” which and Topicals. women to embrace their flaws, and and what they actually do. are untraceable by the corporate Reid, who talked through the openly acknowledges that no one can Dark salons and strict social marketing machines. report in a webinar alongside The be happy with their skin all the time. distancing measures also forced These new micro-groups might Digital Fairy’s Olivia Yallop, sees New sustainability movements, beauty professionals to become even be pay-for-play, “because beauty as a force for change. The including “blue beauty,” which “hackers and hustlers,” creating consumers today are prepared to report's findings, she said, gave focuses on water conservation in new businesses on the fly. Reid and pay for quality content,” said Reid, her hope for the future “primarily products and manufacturing, also Yallop said many became influencers whether that is advice, a tutorial or a because the power is back in the made their way into the report. and content creators, or “upskilled” therapy session. consumer’s hands. The playing field The authors pointed to the “anti- and learned how to give vitamin C Looking ahead, brands will has leveled and things have become establishment, anti-capitalist mood” injections or stealth lash lifts in open also have to rethink their content more democratic.” that permeated industry circles places like car parks. strategies, perhaps adding audio and The two pointed to a mega-shift during lockdown. The beauty industry Yallop also pointed to a surge in DIY “digital rest stops and moments of in the industry, with consumers’ in the U.K. was hit hard by lockdown beauty with “microbrands making silence” with no ads or content so and beauty professionals' attitudes as most workers are self-employed, home batches of candles or hair oils or viewers can take a break and avoid adapting and changing as the long and didn’t necessarily qualify for the making small runs of product,” just to “screen fatigue.” months wore on. government’s furlough scheme. keep themselves afloat. Beauty’s overlap with wellness, and Consumers' routines swung in all Industry organizations including The report argues that the next the necessity of striking a balance directions — some binged on at-home CEW U.K., the British Association decade will belong to “the rule between internal and external beauty or stealth treatments in car parking of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology breakers and rebels,” and pointed was another big theme. lots; others went makeup-free, and and the British Beauty Council to the overlap between beauty and The authors said that with others still took an “anti-aesthetic” all lobbied government for help gaming, and to all the beauty action meditation and other mind-body route by their heads or throughout last year. on TikTok. practices becoming part of people's embracing extreme looks or makeup. But it was just last month that Yallop believes the next years daily routines, “self-mastery” — Some tried them all. a sector-specific team within should bring “brand-to-brand getting to the root of personal The report said, “How do I shave government, dedicated to supporting collaboration, or multibrand problems via meditation or other my head at home?” was one of the personal care, was set up. alliances — an untapped area in practices — will overtake one-off most frequently asked questions “The government had no beauty. Brands could unite around “self-soothing” beauty remedies. online throughout the first lockdown understanding of what was going on,” a product or a cause,” she said. The trend certainly plays to Reid's in the spring. said Reid adding that, during lockdown, She also argued that “we’ve hit overriding philosophy that “beauty is Some “anti-aesthetics” advocates beauty industry figures became activists capacity with brand-influencer a way we can all find a little hope in

refused to shave their legs or and prioritized social justice. collaborations. Many influencers the world.” Image courtesy of Beyond Beauty DEEP DIVE 5 FEBRUARY 5, 2021

December with two faux-mink lash styles and two eyeliners that double as adhesives. The liner-glue combo makes daily false lash wear easier, she said, and her aim is to provide quality and light- weight vegan options at an affordable cost. Everything is priced at $12, and lashes can be reused up to 25 times. Innovation in the category has been centered on enhancing the application process of false lashes. Jenna Lyons, for example, the designer turned lash entrepreneur who launched Loveseen last year, has introduced a $34 bespoke tool that looks like tweezers crossed with the curvature of a mascara wand, to make application easier for consumers. Meanwhile, Ann McFerran, founder and chief executive officer of Glamnetic, has become a major player with her magnetic and eyeliners, which allow for false lashes to be applied in seconds (with both vegan and mink products, starting at $29.99 for a pair). Launched in August 2019, Glamnetic’s revenue doubled month-over-month and reached $50 million in total sales last year. It’s projected to grow into a nine-figure business in 2021, said McFerran, who has grown her team to 70. Along with being direct-to- consumer, Glamnetic is found at Ulta and Amazon and plans to expand into other retailers this year. Before launching her brand, “magnetic lashes had gone viral for a moment and then went crashing down,” said McFerran, adding that the execution was poor, and as a result, the trend fizzled away. She saw a gap in the market, as someone who regularly used false lashes herself, and developed a magnet mechanism that worked well and offered a variety of lash styles including a “full glam look.” trends, as with all beauty norms, vary across cultures and have changed from decade to decade. The business of lengthening and Alexander McQueen's thickening eyelashes dates back to antique silver, gold and pavé ear hook set. at least the 19th century in France, where a procedure involving sewing IN THE AGE OF COVID-19, face human onto developed masks have made eyes — and brows in Paris. By 1911, a Canadian woman Eyeing a Bright — the focus. named Anna Taylor reportedly “Right now, the eyes are the thing received a U.S. patent for false that is captivating everybody’s eyelashes, placing pieces of fabric Spot for Makeup look,” said Yasmin Maya, known as with hairs onto lash lines with an BeautyyBird to her more than 1 million adhesive — a technique that’s similar In a tough makeup market, the eye category — particularly YouTube subscribers. “Everyone wants to the lash strips used today. lashes and brows — is giving the business a much-needed lift. to have their eyes looking beautiful or These days, it’s not just about having them stand out.” products but treatments, too. Salons BY RYMA CHIKHOUNE ¬ PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS MIGGLES When the beauty vlogger decided offer eyelash perms, where a STYLED BY ALEX BADIA ¬ MAKEUP BY KUMA to start her own brand, launching is used to manipulate and curl with false lashes was a no-brainer, natural eyelashes, as well as eyelash she said. extensions, where either mink fur (the “Lashes is what does it for everybody hair is brushed off the animal) or faux right now,” she continued. “Even if you hairs — typically made of a plastic were to go on a date, I mean, you still fiber called polybutylene terephthalate have to wear your mask, so how can — are manually glued onto existing you be flirty and be seductive and all eyelashes by licensed cosmetologists. that? It’s just kind of having the eyes Costs vary tremendously depending speak for themselves.” on the salon but start around $150 for She launched Birdy Lashes in a basic full set. „ DEEP DIVE 6 FEBRUARY 5, 2021

“There are 34,000 lash services in expected to reach $1.6 billion by A significant change in the industry Things changed after she had the U.S., growing about 30 percent 2025. The entire eye market, which throughout the years has been the her third child. While her first two a year,” said Philippe Sanchez, includes both eyelashes and brows, influence of social media and how it daughters were blond and blue- CEO of Luum. “And yet it’s still was estimated at $14.52 billion in has morphed and accelerated trends eyed, her youngest daughter was her very fragmented. It’s not a very 2018, the company reports. In the in brows, she said. spitting image — which kicked off a sophisticated service today.” U.S., though eye makeup sales dipped Young consumers are turning point. Becoming a mother Luum, founded by Nathan Harding in 2020 due to the pandemic, the experimenting more than ever, like made Siadat reflect and changed her and Kurt Amundson in Oakland, category was the most profitable removing the wing of their brows point of view. “If my kids don't see a Calif., is looking to innovate the segment in cosmetics last year, with for a #foxeye look, as popularized on woman who really loves herself, they category in the service industry. The a sales revenue of $1.96 billion, TikTok, or opting for the “feathered” really don’t have a chance.” company, which is three years in the according to market and consumer style — which was made fashionable She let her hair grow, making, has developed technology data firm Statista. by celebrity brow artist Kristie and it felt liberating. She hopes to and machinery using computer vision, On the retail side, Sephora saw Streicher of Striiike. When it comes offer the same with her brand, TooD, artificial intelligence and robotics to success last year in both brow and to services, consumers can now get a clean d-to-c color cosmetics line reinvent the business of eyelashes. lash categories, as clients “prioritized semi-permanent shaped brows using launched in January with products The service is “exactly like a above the mask beauty,” said the lamination technique, a perming like the Brow Color Cream (made manual extension,” Sanchez said. Alison Hahn, senior vice president treatment that keeps a look on for in bold colors) that can be worn Customers close their eyes as the of merchandising in makeup, in six to eight weeks, or microblading, anywhere on the face or body. There machine applies the lash extensions, a statement. which is more invasive and lasts one are no rules, Siadat said. while a certified technician is present. “Specifically, we saw increased to two years. “TooD is short for attitude,” she The benefit, he said, is a much demand for brow and lash “It’s human nature that people get added. “It’s about understanding and faster service, cutting down what can enhancements,” she said. “Prior bored and want to play around with honoring that at any moment you can be a two-and half-hour endeavor to to mask-wearing shifting client’s their brows, but all of us that have pivot and you have the opportunity 20 minutes. The robotic element is beauty habits, we saw a new trend gone through all the trends of brows and agency to change how you feel quick and precise, he said, while the developing toward a more natural, know better,” Streicher said. “It takes about yourself, change what you computer vision is able to work on a fluffy brow look that helped drive a long time to grow back or may think is a beauty standard of how microscopic level, and AI is used to heightened interest in the category…. never grow back.” you wear makeup, where you wear adapt to the varying types of human We anticipate continued growth for Though she’s now based in L.A., makeup and who it’s for.” ■ faces and eyelashes. brow and lash products as clients she moved to New York City in 2001, “The way the technology works, remain home without regular access when thinner brows were the trend. it’s extremely safe because the lash to salons. Clients will continue to Coming from Northern California, is very, very light, therefore we prioritize above the mask beauty — she brought natural, fuller brows to don’t need force to manipulate the like focusing on the eyes and tending the city and to her clientele. lash,” Sanchez said. The arm-like to brows and lashes.” “It’s like eyelashes,” she said. “The part of the machine that applies Eyebrow trends, too, have shifted more eyelashes that you have, the each lash is light in weight. “It’s a throughout the years, yo-yoing more youthful and beautiful you tool, a technology that transforms between the influence of full brows look. Same thing with …I the experience for consumers and with pop culture figures like Brooke have [clients] grow the hair and work empowers the expert lash artist to Shields and Cara Delevingne or pencil with what they’ve got and embrace do what he or she is best at, to give thin variations, most notably seen on whatever it is that they have, whether stylistic guidance, advice, prep and Pamela Anderson and Gwen Stefani they’ve over-tweezed — how to finish off.” — who now has fuller brows. cultivate the best shape working with The company, which raised $10 “The greatest eyebrow makeover of what hair they have and tools like million and is looking to collect its all time is Gwen Stefani, because she pencils — or have a giant .” next round of funding, will open had this uber thin brow in the 2000s Embracing individual beauty is its first salon in the Bay Area in the when she was going through her where the industry has been heading. MEET THE MAKEUP coming months, offering a premium rock stage, her solo artist debut,” said And it’s the motto at TooD Beauty, service “at a competitive price.” Los Natalie Plain, founder of Billion Dollar founded by ceo Shari Siadat — who ARTIST: KUMA @kuma1206 Angeles — the number-one market in Brows. “If you look at her now, she’s makes a point of celebrating lash extensions, according to Sanchez completely transformed her brow.” the unibrow. How did you get your start? — is next, followed by locations in Asia. Plain launched her brand in 2004 “I grew up in a very small town in I always wanted to work in It was in Asia, predominantly in with Brow Boost, a brow primer Massachusetts,” she said. “I had less the beauty industry. After Japan during the Aughts, that eyelash and conditioner. While there were than 3,000 people in my town. I like graduating from beauty school in Tokyo, I moved to New York extensions first boomed. In the U.S., eyelash serums on the market at the to say that I grew up in a sea of blond to be a makeup artist. Hollywood has influenced eyelash time, there were few brands focused hair and blue eyes. I loved playing trends since the days of silent film on brows. with Barbie, too, so I definitely How would you define starlets. Then came Fifties glamour “It just took off,” she said. Plain thought having dark hair there was your style? with icons like Marilyn Monroe, then released the Universal Brow something quite different about me. My style is influenced by followed by the 1960s with more Pencil, formulated with a creamy Before I really had an opportunity graphic lines and colors. playful looks worn by fashion figures to fill in the brow. “It’s our to truly understand how different I like Twiggy. There was Cher in the number-one selling product to date looked, my classmates made it quite My five must-have products: '70s, Madonna in the '80s, and the and always has been.” apparent to me that I looked different ¬Bobbi Brown Vitamin supermodels in the Nineties, who Billion Dollar Brows saw growth in than them.” Enriched Face Vase repopularized bold, voluminous lashes. 2020, she said: “We closed our year as She was bullied for her darker ¬Kryolan Dermacolor But culturally, it was when modern our strongest year yet.” skin, unibrow and “just my overall Camouflage Creme celebrities such as Paris Hilton and Big names in brow include hairiness,” she said. “All I wanted to Jennifer Lopez were seen wearing Anastasia Soare of Anastasia Beverly do was fit in.” ¬MAC Taupe Powder Blush false lashes regularly that the public Hills, who parlayed her signature In her teens, she got rid of the took notice, and the industry grew Golden Ratio brow technique into a unibrow, made her eyebrows “as thin ¬Addiction Tokyo The Glow Stick in the mass market (Lopez famously billion-dollar beauty brand and social as humanly possible” and bleached wore a pair made of red fox fur by Shu media superstardom status. her facial and . ¬Shiseido Moilip Lip Treatment Uemura to the 2001 Oscars). “By '94, I had a line outside of every “I did anything I could do to The global false eyelashes market celebrity you could think of,” she said. look more and more American, size was valued at $1.1 billion in “I was working 16 hours a day six Euro-centric, to fit the norm of Hair by Akihisa Yamaguchi; Model: Raven Wallace at APM; 2018, according to market research days a week, sometimes seven. On what I saw in the media,” she said. Market by Thomas Waller; firm Grand View Research and is Sundays, I used to do house calls.” “I was obsessed with it.” Casting by Luis Campuzano 2021 WEBI NARS Partner with Beauty Inc Editors on the virtual event medium of the moment, focusing on the following topics:

BeautyVest Webinar Series: Masterclass Webinar Series: Taking a deep dive into Showcasing top level brand executives who will emerging brands, markets, share their strategic vision and strategies to innovation and leadership implement in 2021 and beyond

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT RACHAEL DESANTIS, BEAUTY DIRECTOR AT 203-581-3868 OR [email protected] A LOOK BACK 8 FEBRUARY 5, 2021

Businesswoman, author and model Naomi Sims talks to WWD about the state of Black beauty on Sept. 8, 1975, in New York City.

A Brief History of Black-owned Beauty Brands Beauty Inc looks back on Black-owned beauty brands from the 1900s on, featuring Annie Turnbo Malone, Eunice Johnson and Naomi Sims. BY ALEXA TIETJEN

THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY HAS a Malone trained local sales agents 1867, was a washerwoman-turned- employ thousands of Apex sales long history of Black entrepreneurship to travel door-to-door, including entrepreneur who went from making agents. She founded a beauty school that stems largely from women. to Black churches and community $1.50 a day to becoming a successful and gave interest-free loans to Before the days of direct-to- centers. Madam C.J. Walker, who businesswoman with a reported net graduates to help them jumpstart consumer, Annie Turnbo Malone, would go on to create her own beauty worth of $600,000 at the time of her their own businesses. Madam C.J. Walker and Sara Spencer products, was one such sales agent. death. Walker was a sales agent for Washington sold their homemade Malone is known for building a Annie Turnbo Malone, whose products ANTHONY OVERTON beauty products door-to-door, campus called Poro College, which inspired Walker to develop a hair Anthony Overton was a lawyer and scaling their businesses beyond their consisted of her offices, manufacturing tonic — made of coconut oil, beeswax, judge who founded Overton Hygienic humble beginnings and amassing operations, a training center, copper sulfate, sulfur and violet extract, Manufacturing Co. with $2,000 of extraordinary wealth. classrooms, shops, laboratories, for fragrance — to remedy her own savings in 1898. The company made Here, WWD takes a look back at an auditorium, dining facilities, a , according to The New York baking powder, as well as cosmetics Black-owned beauty businesses from theater, gymnasium, chapel and a roof Times. Walker eventually expanded her and perfumes, which Overton decades past. garden. Valued at more than $1 million, business to include hair straighteners, patented under the name "High Poro College employed 175 people and hair-growth elixirs, shampoos and Brown," according to the African ANNIE TURNBO MALONE nearly 75,000 more through franchised . She gave back thousands American Registry. Annie Turnbo Malone was one of outlets in North and South America, of dollars to the NAACP, the Tuskegee In 1911, Overton relocated from the first Black women to achieve Africa and The Philippines. Institute, churches and YMCAs. Kansas City, Mo. to Chicago where he millionaire status in America. The In an interview with The Times in expanded manufacturing to include 62 niece of an herbalist and daughter of ANITA PATTI BROWN 1917, Walker was quoted as saying, products that shipped internationally formerly enslaved parents, Malone Anita Patti Brown, a.k.a. the "Bronze "Perseverance is my motto." to Egypt, Liberia and Japan. Overton created a chemical hair straightener Tetrazzini," was a soprano singer in Hygienic Manufacturing Co. counted called Wonderful Hair Grower and the early 1900s who launched a line SARA SPENCER WASHINGTON both salaried employees and 400 developed and patented the pressing of beauty products under the name Sara Spencer Washington, known as door-to-door sales people, earning . Her net worth was once Patti's Beauty Emporium, according to Madame Washington, was a hotel, a Bradstreet rating of $1 million. thought to be as high as $14 million, Racked. Brown advertised her products golf course and beauty magnate. In Overton founded The Chicago Bee according to the University of Illinois' in The Crisis, the magazine published 1919, Washington founded the Apex newspaper in 1926. Historical Archaeology and Public by the N.A.A.C.P. According to one News and Hair Company in Atlantic After his death in 1946, Overton's Engagement website. advertisement unearthed by Racked, City, N.J., employing 215 people at family continued to run the After moving to St. Louis from Brown's beauty business spanned the height of the business, according manufacturing business until Illinois, Malone opened a retail creams, powder and perfumes. to "The Sarah Spencer Washington the 1980s. outlet at the 1904 World Fair, where Story," a documentary on her life. positive consumer response to her MADAM C.J. WALKER Washington, who sold her beauty GEORGE E. JOHNSON hair care products led her to expand Madam C.J. Walker, born Sarah products door-to-door in the early George E. Johnson founded Johnson

distribution nationally by 1910. Breedlove to enslaved parents in stages of the business, went on to Products Co., known for mass „ Photograph by Fairchild Archive A LOOK BACK 9 FEBRUARY 5, 2021

Iman applies her market hair care products such as makeup backstage Ultra Sheen and Sheen, in 1954. before the Bill Blass Johnson expanded into cosmetics in fall 1986 fashion show. 1970, and his overall business earned $24.2 million in sales in fiscal 1973, according to WWD's archives. Johnson's company owned, produced and sponsored the television show "Soul Train," on which it advertised its products. Johnson was also a chairman of the Independence Bank of Chicago and owned 26 percent of it. In 2004, Procter & Gamble Co. acquired Johnson Products Co. P&G sold the company five years later to Eric Brown and Renee Cottrell- Brown, a husband-and-wife duo.

BARBARA WALDEN Barbara Walden is an actress-turned- beauty entrepreneur who launched Barbara Walden Cosmetics, Inc. in 1968. The company, based in Culver City, Calif., manufactured and distributed hair set cream, concentrate, makeup and skin care products, according to its website. In 1993, annual sales exceeded $5 million, Walden told WWD at the 25- year celebration of her line's launch.

EUNICE JOHNSON Eunice Johnson was the founder of the Ebony Fashion Fair, which showed European and American couture and ready-to-wear via a traveling fashion show. She and her husband, John H. Johnson, cofounded Johnson Publishing Co., which published and edited Ebony, Jet, Black Stars and Black World. Upon noticing that Ebony Fashion Fair models could not easily find makeup that matched their skin, Eunice Johnson launched Fashion Fair Cosmetics for Black women. In 1972, the company had sold Linda Johnson and Eunice 80,000 sample kits, priced at $5.95, Johnson of Ebony/Jet magazines within 10 months, WWD reported. and Fashion Fair attend a party Businesswoman Barbara Walden, founder of Barbara Walden Cosmetics, for the debut of Emlin cosmetics It entered department stores the talks to WWD about about Black beauty on Sept. 8, 1979. line in Chicago on Aug. 2, 1977. following year. Eunice Johnson died of kidney a collection of prestige fragrance million investment from Pegasus licensing deal with P&G involving failure in 2010, when she was 93. products, financially backed by Capital two years later. both of her cosmetics brands. Wagman & Co. As part of the In 2014, L'Oréal acquired Carol's NAOMI SIMS marketing for her fragrance launch, Daughter for as much as $70 million, RICHELIEU DENNIS One of fashion's first Black Sims tucked samples of the products WWD reported. When he graduated from college in supermodels, Naomi Sims was a into wigs from her collection before 1991, Richelieu Dennis planned to beauty entrepreneur who developed shipping them off to customers, IMAN return to Liberia, where he was born. a fiber, called Kanekalon Presselle, according to WWD's archives. After years of mixing her own makeup But when civil wars broke out in the for her high-quality wig collection, formulas as a model, Iman founded country, Dennis stayed Stateside The Naomi Sims Collection. LISA PRICE an eponymous mass-market cosmetics and cofounded Sundial Brands Produced by Metropa Wigs, the Lisa Price, who once worked as line offering foundation shades for with his mother. collection launched in 1973 and was a writer's assistant for the last women of color. Five years after its The two made soaps and carried in some 700 stores, including two seasons of "The Cosby Show," 1994 launch, Iman Cosmetics was creams inspired by those Dennis' Macy's, Gimbels and Alexander's founded Carol's Daughter — which generating $22 million in sales per grandmother had sold in Sierra in New York, with prices ranging makes hair, body and facial products year, WWD reported. Leone. By 2017, Sundial Brands was from $7 to $30, according to WWD's geared toward women of color — in After forming a company called projecting to do $240 million in sales, archives. 1993. Carol's Daughter received a Impala with two silent investors, and was acquired by Unilever for an Within five years, the collection round of celebrity investment from Iman launched I-Iman Makeup, estimated $1.2 billion — one of the had reached $5 million in annual Will Smith, Jada Pinkett Smith, a prestige beauty line, in 2000. largest beauty deals in recent history. sales, according to The New York Tommy Mottola, Thalia, Jay Z, Jimmy The line launched at Sephora and As part of the deal, Unilever and Times. Sims would go on to author Iovine, Andrew Farkas and Steve consisted of 16 products, including Sundial committed $50 million to the a number of books on modeling, Stoute, who brokered the deal and foundation, blush, eyeshadow, New Voices Fund, meant to provide beauty and health. She would joined the company as a managing lipstick and mascara. Iman later business funding to women-of-color

also launch a cosmetics line and partner in 2005. It received a $50 signed a significant multiyear entrepreneurs. ■ Photographs by Fairchild Archive EYE CANDY 10 FEBRUARY 5, 2021

Area Valentino Chanel

Fendi Dior Fantasy Land

¬ Couture season for spring 2021 girls with punky hair and makeup, was particularly lovely beauty-wise, juxtaposed with upcycled, delicate with models’ hair often adorned. embellishments and vintage For Giambattista Valli, Odile jewelry, pieced together to make Gilbert pumped up the volume. up elegant hair adornments to Valli told her he wanted a match the embellished bras,” proportionate to the collection’s said Viktor Horsting. large dresses. So they went for “With this season’s hair and festooned with flowers makeup, we wanted to create and bows. a dramatic flair,” continued “To make it happy,” said Gilbert. Rolf Snoeren. “The inspiration was Marisa At Valentino, Pat McGrath Berenson, when she was a model decorated faces with swathes of and used to do a lot of pictures gold color. with Avedon and Penn. It was like “[It’s] major minimalism meets a girl who was going to a big ball the subversive splendor of Leigh — something that doesn’t exist Bowery in an haute couture anymore, at the moment.” manner,” she said. Karin Westerlund focused on This was a season of high beauty, volume, too. “In the makeup, that also apparent at houses such as is translated into enlarged eyes, Dior, Chanel, Fendi, Iris van Herpen, inspired by Sophia Loren and Stéphane Rolland and Area. manga girls,” she said. “Everything has to be soft and Warrior princesses appeared at dreamy — because we are living in Viktor & Rolf. a tough world,” said Gilbert. “We were inspired by rebellious —Jennifer Weil

Stéphane Rolland Giambattista Valli Iris Van Herpen Viktor & Rolf Fendi photograph by Giovanni Giannoni; Chanel Kuba Dabrowski