Giovanni’s Restaurants The True Taste of Italy ritish cooking doesn’t these shores in 55 BC he brought have much of an Italian food with him. No doubt international reputation. ancient Britons welcomed the novel On the Continent our cuisine the Romans introduced Bindigenous cuisine is often alongside roads and civilisation. But caricatured as amounting to little when four hundred years later the more than boiled mutton, boiled Romans left and the Dark Ages began potatoes and boiled cabbage. Not all such culinary sophistication was quite true of course – but there is forgotten. some truth there. Maybe that is why we love foreign food so much: Over a thousand years would have Chinese, Indian and, of course, Italian. to pass before Britons next experienced cooking from overseas, or indeed ate in a restaurant. For more than three decades Giovanni Malacrino has been a well- known figure in . Not least for being the pioneer behind The word restaurant first appeared in France in 1765. the city’s iconic, Mill Lane Café Quarter and the restaurateur who Britain would have to wait a little longer before its citizens founded two of Cardiff’s most renowned Italian restaurants, could dine out in style. And even longer to sample exotic Giovanni’s; the original on the Hayes, and the latest in Park Place, foreign cuisine. both bringing the true taste of Italy to Wales.

Throughout Britain people have acquired a taste for food from Above: Founder, Giovanni Malacrino. Below: Where it all Italy. But it’s been a long process. When Julius Caesar came to began, Giovanni’s on the Hayes.

108 First to arrive was Indian cooking. The Hindostanee Coffee House at 34, George Street, Portman Square, , was opened in 1809 by Dean Mahomet from Patna, Bihar, India. The British Empire’s long association with India would ensure a continuing demand for the flavours of the East.

Chinese food, too, has been around for a surprisingly long time. The first wave of Chinese immigrants, who arrived in the second half of the 19th Century, came after China’s defeat in the Opium Wars and were mainly seamen. They jumped ship in Britain and settled in the port cities of , Cardiff and London. As the new century dawned they moved away from the docks to the cities, first into laundries then catering. By 1913, there were thirty shops and cafes for Chinese people in London alone.

Italian food was later to arrive, but has since more than involving dogs, Disney’s ‘Lady and the Tramp’, made in made up lost ground. Thousands of Italians emigrated to 1955, certainly stamped into public consciousness the idea Britain in the early part of the 20th century. Many of them that Italian food, not least that old Italian staple spaghetti, went into the ice-cream business, then an Italian specialty. was the food of love.

The very first Italian restaurant is said to have opened in Britain But whether it is the attraction of the food of love, or simply the in 1922. It was, however, in the late 1950s and early 1960s that love of food, Giovanni’s Restaurants in Cardiff are the perfect Italian restaurants, and Italian food, became truly fashionable. place to eat, and to experience the unique cuisine of Italy. Indeed, Italy and everything about Italy became fashionable: the films of Fellini, Italian clothes, and Italian cars. Italian film Located opposite St David’s stars such as Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren became Hall and St David’s 2 word-wide sensations. shopping centre, Giovanni’s on the How did this love affair with Italy start? Hayes is the perfect Perhaps it began with ‘Roman Holiday’ the place to wind down 1953 film which starred Audrey Hepburn and after a night at the Gregory Peck. Another love story, this time theatre, or take a break from a busy day shopping. Giovanni’s on the Hayes is also an incredibly popular destination for parties and events, with Christmas party menus being hugely successful year after year, and groups regularly joining Giovanni for international rugby games.

The newest restaurant, in Park Place, is conveniently located opposite the New Theatre and just a stone’s throw away from the bustling city centre shops and bars.

Top: Customers enjoying the delicious cuisine at Giovanni’s on the Hayes. Above and left: Gio raises a cup of cappuccino to the opening of Giovanni's Park Place restaurant, pictured left.

109 The new venue situated within a picturesque Victorian townhouse, provides everything the iconic Hayes restaurant has done over the years, from delicious home-cooked, freshly-prepared food to the unmistakable authentic Italian atmosphere and, of course, not forgetting the singing and dancing clients have come to expect from a celebration at Giovanni’s.

Conceived in Canton China, born in Reggio, Calabria, in the toe of Italy, but brought up in Grangetown, Cardiff, Gio is a true Welsh-Italian. Though having lived in Wales since the age of three, Gio, however, began his career by travelling to America and working on luxury cruise liners sailing around the world.

In New Jersey he bought shares in a bar and restaurant called The Fox and Hounds. After some time successfully running it he became homesick and I was able to venture into a new business then called decided to move back to Wales. Continental, moving onto club La Tino above Continental. It used to be home to the likes of Luciano Pavarotti, Jose Gio returned to Cardiff where his first business venture was Carreras and Shirley Bassey to name but a few.” selling ice creams. After six months looking for a venue, he came across a coffee shop, then called ‘Planters’, which Gio felt that Mill Lane was missing something and became became the famous Giovanni’s Restaurant on the Hayes. the pioneer in helping to create Wales’ first purpose-built Café Quarter. This started the regeneration of Cardiff and brought the heart of Cardiff to the award-winning Mill Lane.

This page: Giovannis has been the place to eat in Cardiff for countless celebrities and sports stars over the years. Pictured with Gio are Luciano Pavarotti (above), Catherine Jenkins (left) and Sir Tom Jones (below).

When asked about his success Gio says: “It seems like only yesterday that the first customers and now very good friends of mine, the Hirley family, walked through the doors. They used to sit in the window trying to make the place look busy until St David’s Hall emptied after which the restaurant became full. I would like to acknowledge them and will forever acknowledge them. I had lots of help from my sisters Francesca and Tina to create a family atmosphere, great food and fantastic entertainment. This continued with the help and input of Max and the staff, who have all moved over from Reggio, Calabria, in the last few years.

110 According to Gio, “When celebrities come to our venues we new venture their restaurant of choice as did Matthew Kelly give them the option as to whether they are happy to be treated who starred in ‘Please Sir’ and, most recently, Tom Conti who as celebrities of would they rather be left alone. I believe starred in ‘Rough Justice’ at the New Theatre. everyone has the right to their privacy.” According to Giovanni, “Park Place has the same ethos and Soon Giovanni has plans to open Giovanni's Central Kitchen, ambience as we have on the Hayes. Here we are offering and launch his very own Italian Delivery Service alongside his special dishes like scallops in lemon butter sauce; lobster restaurants. Gio says: “I feel that although tossed in tomato and chilli and fillets of sea Cardiff has expanded we all need to bass. We also offer the authentic focus our attention in raising our Italian dishes that Giovanni’s has standards so we can truly become famous for, including compete with other major freshly prepared, pastas, cities in Europe”. antipasti, chicken and veal as well as an In 2013, Gio celebrated extensive wine menu. 30 years in business by Between The Hayes and opening Park Place Park Place we can restaurant. It offers the appeal to those who same relaxed and want an intimate private welcoming ambiance of the lunch and those who want Giovanni’s already well-known be part of a larger party. In Hayes establishment, plus some both venues we have created that fabulous additions to the menu and the truly Italian scenario which has to be space to host larger groups of diners at seen to be appreciated.” affordable prices.

The new venue was soon attracting many well-known faces. Top: A view inside Giovannis Park Place restaurant. Above: The cast of the Michael Jackson musical, ‘Thriller’, made Gio’s Gio and staff with a selections of Giovanni’s special dishes.

111 Yet food isn’t Giovanni only interest; he is also in the process of researching material for a collection of reminiscences about his time as owner of the nightclub Number 10 in Mill Lane, Conti’s and Latino’s. “I intend to call it Ten Years in Number 10 and recall all the celebrities and customers who came there,” he says.

And there’s even more. When he is not engaged in research, or cooking for television, Giovanni is busy as a life coach, having been trained by world-leading experts in NLP (neuro-linguistic programming) Anthony Robbins, Richard Bandler and Paul MacKenna. This, he says, is all about classes where they could learn to cook simple, healthy high- sharing his experiences of life with others so they can manage protein food. their lives in a more ordered manner. According to Giovanni: “Here they learned to cook simple Gio also hopes to launch a new television nourishing pasta, meat and fish dishes for programme, entitled ‘The Italianos’. He their diet, combining protein and says: “I’ve written it with my friend carbohydrates. So that they run Massimo Fraioli. It’s an fasta on Giovanni’s pasta!” educational programme with a comedy element – comedy that So successful was the new appeals to young people. We’ve venture that Giovanni invited also written and recorded a his own customers along to single with Dan and Laura Curtis cook with them. ahead of Children In Need Day called Pizza Pasta Rock ‘N’ Roll, of which we are “In addition to this we hold family very proud.” sessions and we teach personal trainers, from major gyms in Cardiff, how to cook and they bring their Meanwhile, Giovanni’s Italian Cookery School was launched customers along and we teach them. in 2014. Surprisingly, it is the brainchild of Cardiff City’s former manager Malky Mackay, who sent his team to cookery Undoubtedly, Giovanni Malachrino is a man of many talents. An example of this is the setting up of a TV studio dedicated to cooking which will coincide with the launch of Giovanni’s TV. Giovanni says: “There will be programmes where I cook with Massimo my co-star in The Italianos web- based TV programme.After many years of looking after celebrities, my dream is to become one.”

Top: A scene from Gio’s television programme ‘The Italianos’. Centre: Gio gets ready to teach World Boxing Champions and Nathan Cleverly how to cook the Italian way. Left: Members of Cardiff City football team attending healthy eating cooking classes at Giovanni’s.

112 Not only will Italian cuisine feature in these demonstrations but also lessons will be given on how to make ice creams and Italian desserts.

“Giovanni’s will also be offering singles classes where it’ll be a good way for people to meet and talk about a common interest while I play the part of Cupid,” Gio says. “These classes will comprise lessons in cocktail making, wine tasting and even how to make the perfect cappuccino.”

Adding even more excitement to these occasions, celebrity chefs, including Gino D’Acampo, will be invited along to stage cookery demonstrations before an invited audience, the members of which can then enjoy the culinary experience for themselves. But for Giovanni’s happy customers the message they are spreading about Giovanni’s restaurants and his menu is a simple Meanwhile, with the aim of giving something back to his home one: “Bellisimo!” city, Giovanni is also setting up a charity foundation called Gio’s (Great Individuals Often Succeed) that will support both gifted and disadvantaged children aged between 7 and 17. Above: Fans gathered in their thousands hoping for a glimpse of Benedict Cumberbatch and Martin Freeman “I want to help both gifted and disadvantaged children achieve when the BBC began filming their much anticipated third their dreams, ambitions and goals” he explains. “The charity will series in Cardiff’s iconic Giovanni’s Restaurant back in raise money and awareness to help in raising young people’s self August 2013. Below: Gio and the team. belief and enhance their self esteem. I want to spread the message – the words we tell ourselves are the words that matter – not the More information on Giovanni’s Restaurants can be found on words that others tell us.” their website at: www.giovanniscardiff.co.uk

113