Eternity Ring by Peter Keep

The eternity ring project has been an integral part of apprenticeship training for generations. It teaches advanced marking and piercing disciplines. Even with the development of modern manufacturing technologies these skills are still essential for today’s bench jeweller.

The materials used for this lesson is Sterling silver 4.5mm x 4.5mm x 37mm & 21 x 2.5mm CZ’s

Step 1: The first stage of the process is to make a ring blank to specific dimensions. This should be regarded as a test in itself. Roll the stock metal to the required dimensions for the ring blank; 3.8mm wide x 2.6mm thick. The video instructions include how to use a rolling formula to achieve the correct measurements. Make sure that the strip is around 10% over the measurements to allow for final up later.

Step 2: Anneal before into a ring. Finished finger size for this ring is size ‘O’. Aim to make it one size smaller at this stage. Be careful not to impress tool marks as this will affect the finished ring measurements. Cross the ends over to apply tension to the joint, then line the ends up. Ensure that the joint meets perfectly. Flux and solder using hard grade. Quench and pickle to remove the oxides.

Step 3: Tap the ring with a steel on a into a perfect round shape. Work on the ring until you get it to the correct finger size. Now file the ring to the correct measurements and emery finish to remove tool marks. The video includes useful filing tips and techniques.

If you file too much off; sorry but go back to the start. This is a test.

Step 4: Mark out for 21 stones. This is easier said than done. Theoretically you could work out the spacing by dividing the circumference of the ring by 21 and setting you dividers to that measurement. The chances of you successfully 21 perfect spaces are very slim. So; I advise you to firstly dividing the ring into three sections, then concentrate on marking out seven perfectly spaced settings in each of the three section.

Step 5: Check again that you’re your markings are all correct. If not, emery the surface again and restart. Use a set to scribe the marking across the ring. Cut the cross markings in with your piercing saw. Now cut the side lines in, making sure that you position your blade so that the lines radiate from the centre of the ring.

Step 6: When you cut the sides, they should leave evidence on the inside of the ring. This will help for marking the cross lines. Set your dividers to just under 1mm and scribe rails around the inside of the ring, then carefully join the cross markings up matching the rail thickness to create a ladder pattern. The squares should all be the same size and the frame thickness should be consistent.

Step 7: Use a 0.8mm drill to pilot drill all the sections. Check the inside of the ring to make sure that the holes are all centred properly. Open all the settings out with a 1.2mm drill. If any of the pilot holes are out, correct them with the second pass. Treat this exercise as a test for accurate drilling skills.

Step 8: Use a 1.2mm round bur to the inside holes. Use a 1.5mm ball bur to open the top of the settings and finish off countersinking the top with a bud or cone bur. This will allow the saw blade to rotate as you perform the angled back cutting (Ajour) Before you begin to back cut the settings, try the technique out on a piece of scrap metal.

Step 9: Insert a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade into a setting and begin the cutting work by angling the blade forwards. This will help to avoid contact with the top sides of the ring. Keep the blade moving as you cut into the two outer corners, then scrape the blade along the scribe line. Turn the ring around and re-insert the blade to repeat the process on the other side. Stay well withing the scribe lines for you first attempts. You can perfect the work once you have some experience.

Step 10: Cutting the cross markings of the inner squares can be tricky and may result in some accidental cuts on the sides of the ring. As you cut the cross lines of the back holes to a square shape, pay attention to the top sides of the ring opposite where you are cutting, this area should only be contacted by the back of the blade.

Once you have done all the back cutting, use a split mandrel with a strip of emery paper to clean the inside of the ring. This will highlight any rough spots that may need more trimming.

Step 11: Now turn your attention to the top of the ring. Each of the settings are to be cut into castle settings. Set your dividers to half the ring thickness and scribe a guideline around both sides. Set your dividers to 1mm and mark off from the lines at the sides and top of the ring. Now cut the marks in to at least saw blade thickness along the top. Angle your blade to around 45° to cut out the sides of the settings. Carefully turn the blade and cut across to take the small sections out.

Step 12: Use your piercing saw as a file and scrape the cut-out surfaces until they are neat and tidy. The assessment of your saw cutting skills should be done now, before any further tidying work is carried out.

Finally, you can use a needle file to tidy the slots. A #12 flat graver with a polished belly will apply a bright cut finish ready for stone setting. The video includes various stone setting techniques for setting a full eternity ring.

Peter Keep is a master jeweller and teacher. He offers structured online courses that has helped thousands of students around the world improve their skills.

Jewellery Training Solutions Courses Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service including the very popular Silver Level Apprentice Training Course where you will find this course. Check out all the other courses at www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au