33 COVER_Forum Spring 14.qxp:HUBE_ 2/10/14 10:16 AM Page 1 Hu b e rt Whi te Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2014

SPRING TROPICAL HIDEAWAY

STYLE GUIDE: TIE ONE ON SCENE AROUND THE WORLD

HUBE_C001.pdf Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance

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SPRING 2014

Welcome to the latest edition of Hubert White’s Forum magazine. The following 50 pages offer a little glimpse into our world. There are articles on color and style, on two of our iconic partners, Eton and , tips on how to wear your clothing with style, and even some information on hot trends in food and drink. Take special note of the spread beginning on page 8, put together by our own Brad Sherman and Matt White to highlight the spring 2014 season.

In other news, it’s about time to start talking about a very important upcoming event: our 100th anniversary. In 1916 my grandfather, Hubert White, started our store in St. Paul on the site of what is now Kellogg Square Apartments. We are in the early planning stages for special events to commemo- rate this milestone, but let me assure you that 2016 will be a very special year for all of us here at Hubert White. We certainly hope you’ll join us in celebrating.

In the meantime, please enjoy this issue of Forum magazine. I look forward to seeing you in our shop.

Bob White 3rd-generation owner

HUBE_P002.pdf Exclusive fabric by , “Extreme”

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Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS John Frascone

FEATURES BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER 12 What’s Up With Those Off-the-Wall Isaia Images? Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO 20 Best Practices: Exceptionally Eton Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO 46 Art: Listen Up Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER FASHION Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM 8 4 Trends for Spring ’14 Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO 14 All Tied Up Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN 16 Fabrics: Spring Forward Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA 22 Color Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX 30 Italian Style Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT DEPARTMENTS Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY 2 Welcome Letter Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA 6 Ask Forum Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA 36 World Scene FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER 40 Food: May the Fowl Be With You STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2014. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 44 Spirits: Made-to-Treasure 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS 48 End Page: Speaking of Style CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE

PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 17, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

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SPRING 2014 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

I always thought I own just one belt that Q: that jeans are jeans, Q: reverses from black to brown. but I’m told there’s a What more do I need? difference between dress Just as there are dress jeans and casual and casual denim. jeans, there are also dress belts and What’s the difference? casual belts. If the leather is smooth, If you own trim-fitting shiny, burnished or exotic (alligator, jeans in a medium to snakeskin), it’s best worn with dress dark wash with no trousers or a suit. FYI, we love brown tears or abrasions, feel belts and brown shoes (leather or free to wear them out suede) worn with gray and navy tai- to dinner, with a sport- lored clothing! coat and tie if you When you’re wearing casual pants desire, or with any kind (jeans, khakis, ), the ideal belt of shirt or sweater. If might be a softer leather or suede. you don’t own this type Fabric belts are also great in spring of denim, come into the and summer (perfect for shorts!). Don’t store and try some on! be afraid of color or interesting buck- Clean, dark jeans are perhaps the les, both good ways to express some single most important item in today’s fashion flair. casual wardrobes, because they work well with virtually everything you can I’m seeing some strangely Q: short pants on young guys think of. What’s more, many of today’s new denim fabrics contain a small per- these days, sometimes hitting above centage of stretch to ensure comfort, the ankle. Is this a trend? wrinkle resistance and a perfect fit! Shorter-length pants are definitely the If your jeans are baggy in a light to way to go in 2014, but showing ankle medium wash (with or without tears or is on the extreme side. We recom- abrasions), save them for casual wear mend a very soft break in the leg, with and don’t pair them with a slim mod- the hem of the pant just grazing the ern sportcoat. Better yet, buy some top of the shoe. If this seems too jeans that fit. trendy for you, go a bit longer, but please: no hems dragging on the floor! If your pant leg covers the entire heel of your shoe, it’s too long! JENS INGVARSSON

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All About Color

Our sales associates present 4 important trends for spring ’14. Chuck believes it’s All About Color, Bob is enamored with 1 What’s Inside, Jim is a dedicated follower of My Baby Blue, while Paige is locked in on Brand Power.

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1 printed shirts: Eton of Sweden 2 orange and green trousers: Hiltl, white pebbled textured calfskin belt: W. Kleinberg 3 gold and barn red 5-pocket pants: Gardeur, gold ostrich leg belt: W. Kleinberg 4 colorful hosiery: V.K. Nagrani

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MY BABY BLUE

1 navy ostrich leg belt: W. Klenberg 2 royal blue “Chino-lino” jacket with matching trousers: Incotex for Slowear, / knit tie: Isaia, pocket circle: Edward Armah 3 bright blue and green /linen plaid jacket with coordinating lapis blue wool trousers: , pocket circle: Edward Armah 4 azure blue trim-fit, washed-chino golf trousers: Hiltl

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BRAND POWER

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1 linen/cotton rugby stripe crewneck sweater with khaki denim 5-pocket trousers: Isaia 2 tan and lavender plaid super-130s lightweight wool suit, and one-piece button-down collar shirt in purple plaid: Isaia, linen pocket circle: Edward Armah

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INSIDE OUT

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1 10-pocket stretch wool travel blazer: Ermenegildo Zegna, red bengal stripe shirt: Eton of Sweden 2 soft-construction, quarter-lined wool/lycra plaid jacket: Samuelsohn, multi-stripe shirt: Eton of Sweden 3 featherweight wool/silk dark seersucker stripe suit: Montodoro for Slowear, pocket square: G. Inglese

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What’s up with those off the wall ISAIA images?

ISAIA produces “single-image” ad campaigns. These single-image ads are designed to tell a story that carries on from year to year. The ISAIA ads and images are produced to reflect the essence of a true “ISAIA man.” One who is passionate, not afraid to cry, to The story began with the 2010 ISAIA admit fault, to be in love, or to brand campaign… seek redemption. showing the ISAIA man confident and full, tasting all that is in front of him.

The 2011 campaign shows the ISAIA man in a miserable state… crouched in a corner, oozing sadness, guilt and remorse. What has happened?

2012 reveals the unintended consequence of scorning a woman… A martini thrown into the face of the ISAIA man. (Thankfully he is wearing ISAIA’s exclusive Aqua Spider fabric, resistant to stains and liquid mishaps… a foreshadowing?) This begs the question: What did he do to deserve this angry reaction?

The next scene appears in ISAIA’s 2013 image… Our guy is leaning up against a confessional, prepared to ask for absolution from his sins. It now becomes clearer: something serious has happened. We just don’t know what it is…

The answers begin to unfold in the new 2014 campaign... A man must accept the consequences. We find him in the unfortunate position of holding an out-of-control baby boy. It is tempting to conclude that one must reap what he sows.

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3.0-3.5” 2.5-3.0” 2.0-2.5” MODERN NARROW SKINNY ALLTIED UP! THE TOUCH THAT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE.

hose in the know view ties first and foremost as fashion accessories, divorced from the dress codes of 30 years ago. While ties paired with suits are still mandatory T in some corporate office environments, many guys don’t see them that way: to younger generations, ties in narrower widths and materials like cotton or wool are fashionable accessories that go just as well with jeans and an unconstructed blazer... or no jacket at all. Take note that ties have been steadily slimming down over the last 10 years, from an average of 4 inches in 1994 to 3.25 inches today. Several widths (as illustrated above) are now acceptable, as long as they’re in proportion to your jacket lapel. With the pressure off, you’re free to add neckwear to almost any outfit, for almost any occasion. There’s no better way to

show your unique personal style. PHOTOGRAPHER: JENS INGVARSSON. STYLIST: WILLIAM BUCKLEY. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO. MODEL: EMANUELE @ MAJOR MODELS

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LITTLE-KNOWN NECKWEAR FACTS

Louis XIV began wearing a cravat 1.at the age of seven, igniting a trend that spread across France.

In the early 1700s, leather collars called 2.“stocks” were worn around the neck to protect major blood vessels and encourage sol- diers to hold their heads high during battle.

Published in 1818, Neckclothitania or 3.Tietania contains the first printed use of the word “tie” in reference to neckwear.

The long, thin necktie style still used 4.today was born during the industrial revolution, when factory workers needed simple, unfussy neckwear that wouldn’t come undone.

When soldiers returned home from 5.WWII, the Bold Look (characterized by ties that were up to 5 inches wide) showed their eagerness to break free from the con- formity of military uniforms.

Since September 2007, doctors in 6.British hospitals have been banned from wearing neckties because they are laundered less frequently than other clothing items.

In their book The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie, 7. physicists Thomas Fink and Yong Mao assert that there are exactly 85 possible ways to knot a conventional necktie. Of these, Fink says, “just over a dozen are suffi- ciently handsome or different from each other to be worn.”

International Necktie Day (or Cravat Day 8. in Croatia) is celebrated each year on October 18th.

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fabrics Spring Forward ADVANCES IN MODERN MATERIALS TAKE US THROUGH THE CHANGING SEASONS. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

If you still believe that cashmere and wool are for winter and cotton and linen must stay in the closet until the first signs of spring, you may not have a clear grasp on the material world—or at least not on the materials that have been developed in the past decade. In today’s world, where travel is more commonplace and indoor to outdoor temperatures can fluctuate wildly, the best spring menswear is made from fabrics that are “THE ULTIMATE essentially seasonless. Featherweight cashmere in the summer? Why not? A small percentage of trop- SUMMER BLAZER ical wool blended into that linen shirt? Of course, IS NO LONGER especially since wool’s elastic properties help LIMITED TO combat wrinkles. COTTON OR “The biggest trend is weight-neutral fabrics that LINEN.” travel well and go from one climate to the next with —Arnold Silverstone ease,” explains Craig Wertheim of USA, one of the top cloth makers in the world. The Brussels-based company’s solution this season is Fresh, a collection of tropical-weight, wool-blend suit fabrics treated in an advanced finishing process that makes them more breathable as well as cooler to the touch, especially when worn in spring. Of course, cotton and linen are still the two most versatile fabrics for the warmer months. The hygroscopic properties of both plant-based make them highly absorbent and resistant to heat. That same characteristic also makes them remarkably durable, and cooler when in contact with the body. But contrary to popular belief, traditional winter-weight cloths such as alpaca, cashmere and wool—all derived from the downy fleece of animals—are also hygroscopic, meaning they too can absorb perspiration and have the ability to keep the body cool in summer, depending on the weight of the

. In fact, cashmere’s unique molecular structure actually IMAGES COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN

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helps the fiber absorb as much as 35 percent of its own , which is lightweight, water-resistant and breath- weight in moisture. That compares to 25 percent moisture able, as well as Ermenegildo Zegna’s Techmarino cloth and absorption for cotton, which makes cashmere the better Loro Piana’s Storm System, which both add comfort and choice for wicking perspiration away from the body. breathability to wool and other fabrics for when temperatures Thankfully, modern technology can rise and fall. render many classically cool-weather “Selling wool or cashmere in summer five years ago would cloths in microscopically thin and have been tough,” offers Arnold Silverstone, president and lightweight versions. To that end, some extra- creative director at Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman, two of fine gauge cashmeres are now as light and airy as a pair of the leading suit makers at the forefront of new trends in fab- silk stockings, primarily because top factories are ric technology. “But the weights, the and the technol- using the same weaving machines to produce both. ogy have all changed so much that you can have jackets that Or consider the incredible lightness found in this season’s look like cotton and seersucker, but are really made of fine-micron , some of which are made of gossamer-thin wool.” fibers six times finer than human hair. The newest technolo- Among the company’s newest fabrics is a proprietary per- gies have been embraced by makers of both sportswear and formance-driven wool called Extreme, created in collabora- suits, so unless you’re an Icelandic fisherman, it’s hard to tion with Loro Piana’s patented Rain System technology to believe there isn’t room in your wardrobe for any of these give it natural stretch and render it water and wrinkle resist- year-round weaves. ant as well. “We also did a lightweight cashmere/silk blend For spring 2014, suit makers including Canali and for spring that weighs only 200 grams, so it’s almost shirt Ermenegildo Zegna have been especially keen on seasonless weight but gives a soft hand [previously found] only in cash- blends of tropical-weight wool mixed with silk, bamboo and mere,” says Silverstone. “The ultimate summer blazer is no even mohair for a look that can add a bit of iridescence to the longer limited to cotton or linen; now you can wear a blend of finished cloth. Others are using high-tech fabrics such as wool/silk/linen and still be comfortable.”

Khakis Are About Purpose. Bills Khakis Have More Purpose Than Most.

The individuals to the left make some of the finest khakis in the world. Each face represents a job. A livelihood that not only supports a family, but fosters a sense of pride that is difficult to measure in economic terms. This introduction wouldn’t be possible without customers who measure quality and value on their own scale. On behalf of everyone here, thank you for wearing Bills Khakis!

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best practices Exceptionally

ETONCRAFTING THE WORLD’S FINEST SHIRTS. By Karen Alberg Grossman

How did a little family-run shirt business in Sweden get to arrogance: you should never think be the best-selling shirt company in America, possibly in you’re too great. For many years, the world? I recently had the opportunity to join a group of Hans and I were making all the deci- upscale menswear stores for a visit to Eton headquarters in sions and it was hard for us to let peo- Ganghester, Sweden and its design studio in Stockholm. ple contribute. But we soon realized Knowing Eton is one of the hottest brands in the luxury that we might be the problem, so we market, we were eager to experience firsthand the culture, gradually established a team-build- commitment and quality-obsessed artisans at this amazing ing culture that encourages creative company. thinking. An intense passion now As with all great companies, success starts at the top. Eton permeates the company; our people CEO Hans Davidson (third generation, the company was love coming to work…” founded by his grandparents in 1948) and senior advisor Jan Eton is a vertical business, man- Borghardt were incredibly candid about their journey. As aging every stage of the shirt-making Borghardt explains it, “The Swedish mindset discourages process from cotton production to

Hans Davidson and Jan Borghardt at the helm during a boat cruise in Stockholm. Why invest in a luxury shirt? It will look better, wear longer and get more compliments than any shirt you own!” Bob White

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creative to sales. They use only Caring For FAST FACTS ON ETON: extra-long staple cotton (Pima from Your Eton Shirts • The collection is sold in only the finest California and Giza from Egypt), HOME WASHING: • renowned for its luster, durability Unbutton the shirt and follow care stores in 42 countries. instructions on label. and softness. (Only 0.7 percent of • Do not overfill washing machine; • An Eton shirt is ecologically correct, set on low spin. the world’s cotton is ELS.) They then from growing the cotton (using crop • Once washed, hang shirt on partner with top mills that spin the hanger and stretch collar, cuff and rotation) to the to cotton and weave the fabric. “We front plackets softly. Do not wring packaging and shipping. the shirt. work with mills in , • Optional: Light iron for an extra • Eton uses more cotton per square Switzerland and France,” finishing touch. explains Eton creative millimeter than most luxury brands. PROFESSIONAL LAUNDRY: director Sebastian • Ask your cleaner to use light press • They are famous for color clarity (there Dollinger, a talented and no starch. Pressing is not are 250 different shades of red alone!) recommended for collar, cuff and young artist whose front plackets. and exclusive designs (they use no inspiration wall for fabrics available on the open market). spring 2015 includes a • Hindu magazine cover Eton offers a variety of different fits and from the 1950s, a Led stocks numerous styles in each. The fit Zeppelin album cover, and various images of air- is exceptional because all planes, flamingos, vintage pinball machines and measurements are carefully graded Mexican skulls worked into a cool . “We work Sebastian across sizes. with our weaving mills very early in the process and Dollinger • poses in front Eton collars and cuffs are unique: the buy up their capacity far in advance, which is why of his spring founders invented an exclusive method the designs are exclusive.” inspiration of sewing them inside out. Also unique to Eton shirts: a notable crispness, board. • thanks to a special process that allows wrinkle Buttons are made of pulverized mother resistance in the most ecologically safe way possi- of pearl that Eton re-casts for added ble. “Cynics say it’s impossi- strength, and they’re strategically ble to attain our level of wrin- placed to allow for open collar-wearing. kle-free without chemicals,” • Each shirt requires at least 100 minutes Davidson explains. “But with of cutting and sewing. our finisher in Switzerland, we invented a (40-step) method • Much of the machinery used in the that actually rearranges the production process was conceived by fibers of the cotton rather Eton, and much hand craftsmanship is than coating the fabric with involved. chemicals. It’s been said there • Eton ties are also exceptional, made at are more chemicals in a cup the finest factories in England and Italy. of British tea than in an Eton shirt…” • The male model who is currently the face of Eton has a notable scar on his cheek. “Patrick represents adventure and risk- taking,” explains global Hubert White was the first Forum store to put in an Eton brand director Robert shop. I remember the opening party: we sold 100 shirts in Inghamn. “He’s the James Bond-type of one night and consumed around five bottles of Aquavit. It guy that women love: was a huge success!” Erik Wilkinson, Eton global sales director always stylish and cool, even when facing extreme danger…” 21

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COLOR CHECK SPRING 2014 BRINGS A FRESH TAKE ON PRINT AND COLOR. DISCOVER THE LUSH HUES OF THE TROPICS, SET ON STUNNING VERANDAS UNDER A CANOPY OF PALMS AT THE MOORINGS RESORT & SPA IN ISLAMORADA, FLORIDA.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR/MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING: WENDY MCNETT / WIILLIAM BUCKLEY 33 FASHION_Color Check.qxp:Forum 1/28/14 1:39 PM Page 3

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BRING ON THE BLUES

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BE PLAYFUL WITH PLAIDS, SETTING EXOTIC BRIGHTS AGAINST BOLD NEUTRALS.

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IT’S A SHORTS STORY

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StyleITALIAN

A COURSE IN EASY ELEGANCE, FROM THE WORLD’S MOST WELL-DRESSED MEN. PHOTOGRAPHER: JENS INGVARSSON. STYLIST: WILLIAM BUCKLEY. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO. MODELS: EFREN @ MSA, JHANELLE @ MAJOR, EMANUELE @ MAJOR. PHOTOGRAPHER: JENS INGVARSSON. STYLIST: WILLIAM BUCKLEY. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO. MODELS: EFREN @ MSA, JHANELLE MAJOR, EMANUELE

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Brown Shoes PAIR PERFECTLY WITH GRAY OR NAVY SUITS IN A MODERN SLIM FIT.

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Spring Layering GETS YOU THROUGH THE SEASON IN STYLE, WHILE WHITE TROUSERS BALANCE COLOR ON TOP.

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Tailored Outerwear DOUBLES AS A BLAZER WHEN WORN WITH A DRESS SHIRT AND TIE.

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PLAY WITH Prints & Patterns IN BOLD COLOR (AND SKIP THE SOCKS).

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Lightweight Knits LEND AN EFFORTLESS COOL TO SLIM COLORED CHINOS.

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world scene BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON Experience life’s little luxuries. TOUJOURS PROVENCE

Quietly sequestered among the vine- yards, olive groves and lavender fields in the South of France is the sleek, modern, nearly 750-acre Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort. Here, golfers are welcomed with two championship 18-hole courses and the Leadbetter Golf Academy, featuring the world’s top instructors. Spend the morning improving your swing, then pass a lazy afternoon at the infinity pool (with a breathtaking view of the Southern Alps), or get pampered in the elabo- rate and opulent spa. Since you’re in France, you should do a lot of eating

BRUNO PRECHEMINSKY and drinking. Terre Blanche makes it easy with four restaurants that serve fresh local dishes and superb wines (the rosés are especially excellent). Finally, retire to one of the elaborately homey villas scattered among the pine trees, where you’ll find seclusion and every contemporary comfort. It’s like having your own private Provence.

A COUNTRY PORT BLACKBERRY FARM, a stylishly pastoral resort at the foothills of the Smoky Mountains in eastern Tennessee, has been a favorite American destination for genera- tions. Along with the comfortable cottages, award-win- ning food, and vast number of activities offered at Blackberry Farm, food, beverage and wine director Andy Chabot has assembled a commanding collection of 8,500 wines. The rare vintages include 25 madeiras and 20 ports. Chabot introduces guests to these notable after- dinner wines with flights: side-by-side tastings of three, such as the 1834, 1863 and 1875 madeiras, or ruby, tawny and white ports. For the true port connoisseur Chabot suggests VV from Niepoort (released only twice in the history of the company, just 999 bottles of this tawny port were produced), which he describes as “an elegant way to ease out of the evening.” IMAGE BY BEALL + THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY 36

HUBE_P036.pdf Love where you live!

SMITH + ROFFERS

t: 952.237.1100 [email protected] www.SmithandRoffers.com

OFFICE LOCATIONS

EDINA 3217L Galleria

WAYZATA 202 Superior Boulevard

)EGL3J½GI-W-RHITIRHIRXP]3[RIH%RH3TIVEXIH

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PICTURING THE WILD WEST For more than a century, cowboys and cowgirls have EASY RIDER gathered at the Cheyenne Frontier Days to compete at the rodeo, dance the two-step and recreate the Old ission Motorcycles has recently introduced the Mission West. There’s also an art show. This July more than MRS, an innovative and high-performing electric motorcy- 60 of the country’s contemporary artists celebrate cle. Merging stunning looks with state-of-the-art tech- America’s frontier past—its culture, its magnificent nology, the Mission RS has a 120 kW (160 hp) electric motor scenery and the western way of life—in paintings, integrated with Mission’s InfiniteDrive, which offers control sculptures, wood and alabaster carvings, and Navajo and performance levels never before seen in any electric vehi- . The Cheyenne Frontier Days Western Art cle. The result: a pure motorcycle experience. Marchesini com- Show begins with a preview, followed by a reception petition-legal and race-spec forged magnesium wheels are at the Wyoming Governor’s Mansion. A western din- included in the optional GP Package, making the Mission RS ner and cocktails are served throughout the evening ready to compete on the world stage. Production of the Mission while the sale takes place, and guests dance the night RS is limited to 40 editions; naturally, each bike purchased is away to the sounds of a live band. hand-delivered within North America.

ON THE WATERFRONT This summer, experience the great outdoors at Miami’s Viceroy Hotel. For evenings there’s Fifty, a new rooftop indoor/outdoor lounge perched atop the 50th floor. Recline on chaise lounges or hang out at the bar and private pool and stare at the stars (or the city lights). During the day, head for the 15th floor and make a splash in the 300-foot infinity pool (Florida’s longest), an 80-per- son hot tub (the world’s largest) and a wad- ing pool, which together add up to a water complex the size of a football field.

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HUBE_P038.pdf SPRING 2014

Knowledge. Wisdom. Truth

RobertGrahm.indd 1 1/13/14 2:15 PPMM 33 FOOD_MaytheFowlBeWithYou.qxp:HUBE_1/29/1411:52AMPage40 HUBE_P040.pdf food chicken leg.) in life are quite sosatisfying as discovering anoverlooked summer picnicsorlate-night refrigerator raids. (Few things even evoke nostalgia: memories ofSunday familydinners, satisfying, delicious, and like all great comfort foods, itcan brate National Fried Chicken Day? (July 6th,FYI.) American dish. Afterall, how many other countries cele- worldly history, friedchicken has become aninimitably ducing the techniquetothe United States.)Despite its of frying chicken infat?(Some even credit them withintro- West African cuisine, and the Scots were early proponents chicken friedinpalm oilhas beenalongstanding staple in have beeneaten since ancient times inEurope and Asia, SO WHAT IFVERSIONSOFFRIEDCHICKEN MAY THE By DonaldCharles Richardson FRIED CHICKENGETS DRESSED UP. It’s almost impossible not tolove fried chicken. It’s crispy, FOWL 40 water, then rinses itoff, dips itinflour and adds black pepper. routine: she soaks the chicken inabig tub filledwith salt that she has “never called itarecipe” before sharing her prep she asserts. country cook. Ican tellhow achicken is raised by the taste,” turn out some ofthe bestfriedchicken inthe country. “I’ma name) inChapel Hill,North Carolina, where she continues to Mama Dip’s (Mama Kitchen Dip was her childhood nick- learning andcreating herreci of this current passion for poultry. ing fowl. And cooks all over the country are keeping abreast it’s become sofashionable that even elitist gourmets are cry- When asked ifshe has aspecial recipe, Mama Dip explains Raised onafarm,Mildred Cotton Council spent years Although friedchicken has always beenpopular, these days 1976, shepes. In1976, final BE WITHYOU ly opened Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc Hoc Ad

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“Best not to freeze for fried chicken,” she cautions. “People lion potato salad, pimento mac ‘n cheese, creamed kale and get chicken on sale and put it in a freezer, [but you] need a roasted garlic mashed potatoes, and presented alongside 12 fresh chicken to begin with. Every day we get a delivery.” different dipping sauces, including buffalo hot, satan spicy, Mama Dip always serves her fried chicken with biscuits. homemade ranch buttermilk, barbeque and honey mustard. Another tip she’s generous enough to reveal: “I started mak- It stands to reason all the attention on this essentially sim- ing biscuits with plain self-rising flour with a little extra bak- ple American dish was eventually bound to ruffle the feathers ing powder mixed in there. It’s really good.” of famous chefs. Renown for the gastronomic experiences he Other restaurants, vying for the cock of the walk title, have creates at his legendary French Laundry and Per Se restau- come up with their own inventive methods of making fried rants, Thomas Keller salutes home cooking with Ad Hoc in chicken. In Portland, Oregon, David Kreifels, one of the three Yountville, California. Here, chef de cuisine Katie Hagan- Welchel treats chickens like poultry royalty. Using only local Chicken and waffles birds no larger than 2.5 pounds (to promote even cooking), at Birch & Barley the chicken is cut into 10 pieces and spends 12 hours in an

Laurelhurst Market Steakhouse & Butcher Shop

partners who’ve created Simpatica and Laurelhurst Market (named in 2010 as one of the best new restaurants by Bon Appétit) says they only serve fried chicken from the butcher shop on Tuesdays at Laurelhurst

Market, and at brunch on Sundays at DAVID REAMER Simpatica. IT’S The chicken is soaked in buttermilk ALMOST herb-lemon brine (to help the meat stay juicy). It’s overnight, dusted with a blend of curry IMPOSSIBLE air dried to room temperature then dredged in flour powder, flour, salt, pepper and paprika, NOT TO mixed with garlic, onion powder, paprika, cayenne then fried in oil. The spice coating LOVE FRIED pepper, salt and black pepper. Next it’s dipped in allows the chicken to develop a nice CHICKEN. buttermilk, then returned to the flour mixture and crisp at a lower oil temperature. It’s finally fried in peanut oil. Chef Hagan-Whelchel uses allowed to “rest” after frying and Kreifels says, two different fryers—one for white meat, another for dark— “As it cools the crust gets crispier… and the crust stays pointing out that dark meat takes longer and she prefers to on because of the lower heat.” Their chicken is served with cook it at a lower temperature (320 degrees) than the white waffles in fruit syrup. (340 degrees). Fried chicken at Ad Hoc is on the menu every In Washington D.C., Birch & Barley’s fried chicken and waf- other Monday and served with corn bread and seasonal veg- fle dish is so popular that husband and wife team Kyle (chef) etables. It’s also available in a box lunch at Addendum in the and Tiffany (pastry chef) Bailey have opened another restau- garden behind Ad Hoc, from Thursday through Saturday. rant, GBD (Golden, Brown & Delicious), that highlights fried When you get right down to it, whether simple or sophisti- chicken along with their gourmet doughnuts. You can actual- cated, fried chicken at its best is soul-satisfying food you eat ly order a fried chicken sandwich with a doughnut as the with your fingers while having a really wonderful time. “Fried bread. (Truly, you can!) GBD uses 100 percent hormone-free chicken somehow emotionally resonates with everybody,” chickens plunged into a buttermilk brine then fried fresh to says Hagan-Whelchel. “It’s a thread through all of us… it just order. It’s served with sides like crème fraiche biscuits, scal- makes you feel good.”

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HUBE_P042.pdf DavidDonahue.indd 1 1/13/14 1:51 PPMM HUBE_33 SPIRITS_Made-to-Treasure.qxp:HUBE_ 2/10/14 10:32 AM Page 44

spirits Made-to-Treasure RESORTS AND RESTAURANTS OFFER GUESTS ONE-OF-A-KIND DRINKING EXPERIENCES. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

THE LATEST TREND: CUSTOM BARREL SELECTIONS AND BLENDS EXCLUSIVE IT'S NO LONGER ENOUGH to order a standard blended TO SPECIFIC gle-barrel reserve Bourbon and whisky, or even an 18-year expression of your go-to Scotch RESTAURANTS, is now offering the first-ever before dinner. The latest trend: custom barrel selections and BARS AND Russell's Reserve select single blends exclusive to specific restaurants, bars and resorts. RESORTS. barrel from Wild Turkey Distiller Such custom and one-off bottlings have been around for Jimmy Russell. years through high-end liquor stores and private tasting soci- Often the restaurant will craft a signature or private selec- eties. But as the cocktail and fine drinking scenes evolve, more tion cocktail. Chef Marc Murphy's bar/restaurant Kingside, in bars and restaurants are clamoring for a customized spirit. Manhattan's luxe new Viceroy Hotel, features a custom Woodford Reserve Bourbon offers two programs for restau- Michter's Whiskey (aged in a custom deep-char barrel) in its rateurs and beverage managers: A single-barrel selection, and own barrel-aged Manhattan. At Emeril Lagasse's Las Vegas an unusual two-barrel blend, which sees the venue working venues, he drops a custom Buffalo Trace Eagle Rare single-bar- directly with master distiller Chris Morris to create an exclu- rel reserve into three seasonal cocktails: The NOLA Mule, the sive whiskey, the selections winnowed down from over 100 pos- Bourbon Milk Punch and the Autumn Pomme. Bam! sible barrels. Such exclusivity isn't reserved for whiskeys: Herradura tequi- "As far as I know, we have the only program like this," says la offers a Buy the Barrel program to restaurants around the Morris. Destinations like The Cloister at Sea Island (Georgia), country, including several Richard Sandoval properties in New The Edison in Los Angeles and the St. Regis in Atlanta have York; at contemporary Japanese eatery Shibuya in Las Vegas, taken advantage. "It's so fun to watch the dynamics of each you'll find exclusive sakes dubbed Neo-Tokyo and Hachiko; account: Some want a sweeter blend, some spicier. It's always and at Four Seasons , you can order a custom Italian unique; you can't replicate a two-barrel batch." (sweet) vermouth. Michael MacDonnell, beverage director at the Monte Carlo "It's wonderful to see people come back and select new bar- in Las Vegas, concurs: "Uniqueness is one of the top selling rels for seasonality or specific food pairings," says Morris. points. Nowhere else in the world has it, and when it's gone, it's "Restaurants and resorts are finding they're selling out so fast

gone forever." The resort offers an exclusive Knob Creek sin- that they're saying, 'we've already got to do this again.'" IMAGE BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

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HUBE_P044.pdf IT JUST FITS.

Gardeur.indd 1 1/16/14 9:17 AAMM HUBE_33 ART_ListenUp.qxp:HUBE_2/10/1410:43AMPage46 HUBE_P046.pdf art Listen Up! work presented ina12th-century setting.” century piece ofmusic,transforming itintoher ownmaster- as “a contemporary artist deconstructing arenowned 16th- Chapel. Associate curator Anne Strauss referred tothe work this time, the backdrop was the beautiful Fuentidueña exhibit was previously shown only instark,modern rooms; porary art,and itwas afirstfor Cardiff as well,since the Cloisters. This exhibit was The Cloisters’ entrée intocontem- Motet, presented atthe Metropolitan Museum ofArt’s The for example.” and concentration, maybe more than looking atapainting, fleeting. Learning how tofocus on‘active listening’ takes time the same way as the things weseebecause sound is temporal, Sound is all around us,but we’re oftennot trulyaware ofitin ways, whichis why people’s ears are opentoawidervariety. internet] makes way for musicthat usessounds indifferent that postsvarious sound and artinstallations, seesit,“[The artist/composer and writerfor of musicthrough the internet. AsMark IJzerman, asound art world.Some attribute their popularity tothe globalization Sound installations are agrowing trend inthe contemporary BY ELISEDIAMANTINI EXHIBITS AREHEARD, NOT SEEN. THE NEWEST CONTEMPORARY ART The exhibit was breathtaking: 40speakers set upinanovu- Garnering recent attentionwas Janet Cardiff’s Forty Part Everyday Listening , awebsite 46 and sounds, but also sculptures and interactive systems.” very muchintertwined with boththe exploration ofmusic reacts withsound when you touch it. Sound installation artis sound is adominant factor, or aknittedsculpture which forms. AsIJzerman says, “Itcan beasculpture inwhich determines what wehear.” Intrigued yet? exhibition positssomething specific: that how welisten bells inNew York City, and asugar factory inTaiwan.... The ing echolocating bats, abandoned buildings inChernobyl, 59 chets withinagallery, toarange offieldrecordings—includ- wise inaudible sound, toanexploration ofhow sound rico- from architectural interventions, tovisualizations ofother- website described the exhibit: “These artistic responses range tured the workof16contemporary artists. The museum’s Score in this emerging genre last year. Soundings: AContemporary sory experience. speaker—separately and collectively—to gain the overall sen- were encouraged towalk around the room and listen toeach continuously during the museum’s operating hours. Guests opened witha verbal introduction by the artist and played Tudor composer Thomas Tallis. The 11-minute performance es sang the 40-part motet member ofthe Salisbury Cathedral Choir. Together, the voic- lar shape each played the recording ofasingular voice from a Like art,sound installations can beexhibited invarious New York’s Museum ofModern Artalso featured anexhibit was MoMA’s firstmajor exhibition ofsound artand fea- Spem inaliumnumquamhabui Installation viewof A Contemporary Score Score Contemporary A Inset: JanetCardiff, Part Motet Motet Part Chapel atTheCloisters York City’sMoMA. , Fuentidueña by Soundings: The Forty The at New

PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN MUZIKAR, © 2013 THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK. INSET: THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART/WILSON SANTIAGO Robert Talbott.indd 1 1/13/14 2:15 PPMM HUBE_33 END PAGE_Speaking of Style.qxp:HUBE_ 1/24/14 2:34 PM Page 48

ON MATTERS OF STYLE, SWIM WITH THE CURRENT. ON MATTERS OF PRINCIPLE, “ STAND LIKE A ROCK.” — THOMAS JEFFERSON WHETHER YOU’RE BREAKING DOWN “NINETY PERCENT OF WHAT BARRIERS IN PURSUIT YOU SEE WHEN YOU LOOK GOOD OF YOUR DREAM JOB AT A PERSON IS HIS “ OR ENJOYING A CLOTHING. SO OF COURSE IT CLOTHES NIGHT OUT WITH MATTERS!” OPEN ALL YOUR CLOSEST — TOM KALENDERIAN DOORS. FRIENDS, BEING — Thomas Fuller ’’ SURROUNDED BY THE RIGHT LIFE-GIVING CLOTHES AND “Good design, ACCESSORIES CAN much like good EQUIP YOU WITH ballet, must look THAT JUJU TO MAKE Speaking EVERYTHING GO completely YOUR WAY.” of effortless. No one — CONNIE WANG & wants to see how MARISSA ROSENBLUM Style hard you’re working.” — JAMIE WOLF

YOU INNOVATION! ONE CANNOT BE FOREVER “ INNOVATING. I WANT TO CREATE CLASSICS.” CAN HAVE WHATEVER — COCO CHANEL YOU WANT “ IF YOU “STYLE IS A LUXURY, DRESS AND LUXURY IS SIMPLY FOR IT. WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY.” — Edith Head ’’ — Deborah Needleman “One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.” — Oscar Wilde

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HUBE_P048.pdf THE ULTIMATE TROUSER

Hiltl.indd 1 1/16/14 9:16 AAMM Canali.indd 1 2/6/14 1:26 PPMM

FORUM SPRING 2014 HUBERT WHITE 33_Spines:Document 1 1/29/14 11:57 AM Page 3 Page AM 11:57 1/29/14 1 33_Spines:Document