Zenith Hoodie Fabric R Equirements

Zenith Hoodie Fabric R equirements:

60” width fabric

Recommended Fabrics and Notions: Fabric - (Stretch fabric with at least 35% stretch) Sweatshirt Fleece, French Terry, Cotton Lycra, Jersey, Cotton interlock, Poly blends, Medium-Thick Knits. (Pre-wash all your fabric). Ribbing - (Stretch fabric with at least 50% stretch) Ribbing, Cotton Lycra, Knits with at least 5% spandex and excellent recovery. (Pre-wash your fabric). Drawstring - Optional. Medium weight Fusible Interfacing - (For use with drawstring). 4 Eyelets- (Optional)1/4” center.

Size Chart and Finished Measurements:

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 2 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 3 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Stretch Gauge:

Tips for Sewing with Knits: • Use a ball point needle or jersey needle in your serger or sewing machine.

• If you’re not using a serger, use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. It will look like this:

• If your sewing machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch, use the zigzag stitch and lower the width to 1 mm.

• To allow for a greater amount of stretch on your stitch, lower your tension by one number; if you usually have your tension set at a 5, lower it to a 4.

• When sewing with knits it is important to not stretch the fabric as you sew. If you’re experiencing wavy seams, try adjusting the presser foot to a lighter pres- sure.

• When using a serger, set your differential feed to 1.5 with a stitch length of 2.5 for medium weight knits, 1.0 with a 2.0 stitch length for light weight knits and 2.0 with a 3.0 stitch length for thick knits. (All sergers are different, use this as a guide- line.)

• For knits that roll at the edge, press with starch.

• Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine for greater stretch and tunneling issues from a double needle. This also works well with a straight stitch for topstitching, not hemming.

• Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the upper looper of your serger for fabrics with a great amount of stretch.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 4 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Printing Instructions: To print the pattern, make sure page scaling is set to none and landscape is selected. Print off the page with the 2” test box (page 21) and adjust settings as needed to match size. Print off the rest of the pattern. Tape the pattern together with the numbers in sequence to make this:

To print only one size, select the layers on the side menu and leave page numbers, text, paper size, and desired size selected.

When taping the no trim pages together, each page will have a border on the bottom and right side. Overlap the adjoining pages to these bor- ders. There will be a small gap that won’t print.

Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric following If you’re printing in layers, check your print preview before the grain. The printing to remove any blank pages for smaller sizes. grain will be the length of your fabric. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 5 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Cutting the Zenith Hoodie:

Standard or Tunic: • Cut 1 Front Bodice piece on the fold. (standard or tunic). • Cut 1 Back Bodice piece on the fold. (standard or tunic). • Cut 1 Pocket piece on the fold. (standard or tunic). • Cut 2 Sleeve pieces (mirror Image). (short or long). • Cut 2 Waistband pieces on the fold. (standard or tunic) • Cut 2 Hood pieces (mirror image) • Cut 2 Sleeve cuff pieces. (long sleeve only).

Tank (all bodice lengths): • Cut 1 Front Bodice piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Back Bodice piece on the fold. • Cut 2 Tank Arm Band cuff pieces on the fold. • Cut 2 Hood pieces (mirror image). • Cut 2 Bottom Band pieces. (for standard and tunic). • Cut 1 Pocket piece on the fold. (for all lengths but crop).

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 6 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Cutting the Zenith Hoodie (continued).

High-low: • Cut 1 Front Bodice piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Back Bodice piece on the fold. • Cut 2 Sleeve pieces. (mirror Image). (short or long) • Cut 2 Hood pieces. (mirror image). • Cut 1 Pocket piece on the fold. • Cut 2 Sleeve cuff pieces. (for long sleeve only).

Curved Hem: • Cut 1 Front Bodice piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Back Bodice piece on the fold. • Cut 2 Sleeve pieces (mirror Image). (short or long). • Cut 2 Hood pieces (mirror image). • Cut 1 Pocket piece on the fold. • Cut 2 Sleeve cuff pieces (for long sleeve only)

Crop: • Cut 1 Front Bodice piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Back Bodice piece on the fold. • Cut 2 Sleeve pieces. (mirror Image). (short or long). • Cut 2 Hood pieces. (mirror image). • Cut 2 Sleeve cuff pieces. (for long sleeve only).

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 7 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 • Fold under the pocket openings 1/2”. Press. Stitch in place.

Sewing the Pocket: Seam Allowance is 3/8” unless otherwise stated.

• Fold under the pocket openings 1/2”. Press. Stitch in place.

• For the Standard length, fold under the top and sides 1/2”. Press.

• For the tunic lengths, fold under the top, sides, and bottom 1/2”. Press.

• For the Standard length, mark the center of the pocket piece and the center at the bottom of the front bodice.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 8 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Pocket (continued): • Place the pocket right side up on the top of the bodice. Align the bottom edges matching up the center. Stitch in place along the top and sides. Do not stitch the pocket openings.

• For the tunic, transfer the top pocket marking from your pattern piece onto the front bodice.

• Place the pocket right side up on the top of the bodice. Align the top center of the pocket with the marking you just made. Stitch in place along the top, sides, and bottom. Do not stitch the pocket openings.

Sewing the Hood (all sleeve options): • Take the Front and Back bodice pieces and place them right sides together aligned at the shoulders. Stitch in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 9 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Hood (continued): • Using the marking on the pattern piece, mark the placement for the eyelets or buttonholes on the wrong side of the hood pieces.

• On the wrong side of the fabric, iron 1” x 1” fusible interfacing to re- inforce the eyelets or buttonholes.

• Place the eyelets on the hood or sew buttonholes.

• Place the hood pieces right sides together and stitch along the top and back.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 10 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Hood (continued): • Fold the front of the hood under 1/4” and then another 1”. Pin in place. Or serge the edges and fold under 1 1/4”.

• Edge stitch in place.

• With right sides out, overlap the front of the hood matching center points. Quarter the hood neckline.

• Quarter the neckline of the bodice.

• Place the hood inside the bodice, right sides together. Match up the center front neckline with the front of the hood and the center back neckline with the back seam of the hood. Stitch in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 11 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Crop buttonholes: • Transfer the buttonhole markings from the Front bodice piece onto the wrong side of the Front bodice.

• On the wrong side of the fabric iron 1” x 1” fusible interfacing to rein- force the buttonholes.

• Draw ½” marking vertically on top of the dots. Cen- ter the line over the dot.

• Place ½” buttonholes vertically on top of the interfaced markings.

• Without cutting through the stitching, cut open the button holes.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 12 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Long Sleeve: Skip to page 14 if doing Short Sleeves.

• Transfer the center sleeve notch mark from the pattern piece onto your fabric. • Take one of the sleeves and place it right sides together with the bodice. Match the front of the sleeve with the front of the bodice. Then use the notch marks to align the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam and the back of the sleeve with the back bodice.

• Beginning at each end and working towards the center, pin the sleeve to the bodice. Stitch in place. Re- peat with the other side and sleeve.

• Turn the bodice so that right sides are together. Align seams at the armpit and stitch together in an “L” shape. Repeat with other side.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 13 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Long Sleeve (continued): • Fold one of the Cuff pieces right sides together widthwise. Stitch along the side.

• Turn the cuff wrong sides together, matching up the raw edges.

• Place the cuff right sides together inside of the sleeve, matching the seams. Stretch to fit and stitch in place.

Sewing the Short Sleeve: • Fold the bottom of the short sleeve under 3/4” and press flat. Edge stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 14 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Short Sleeve (continued): • Transfer the center sleeve notch mark from the pattern piece onto your fabric.

• Take one of the sleeves and place it right sides together with the bodice. Match the front of the sleeve with the front of the bodice. Then use the notch marks to align the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam and the back of the sleeve with the back bodice.

• Beginning at each end and working towards the center, pin the sleeve to the bodice. Stitch in place. Re- peat with the other side and sleeve.

• Turn the bodice so that right sides are together. Align seams at the armpit and stitch together in an “L” shape. Repeat with other side.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 15 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Tank (continued): Your shoulder seams and hood should be complete before continuing with this step.

• Turn the bodice so that right sides are together. Align the side seams. Stitch together. Repeat on other side. • Take one of the Arm Band pieces and fold it right sides together widthwise. Sew the end together.

• Fold the bands wrong sides together lengthwise, matching the raw edges.

• Place the band inside the armscye of the shirt, right sides together, raw edges together. Align the arm band seam with the side seam of the shirt.

• Stretch the band to fit and stitch in place. Repeat with the other side.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 16 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sewing the Waistband : • Take the Bottom Band pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch the short ends together on each side.

• Fold the band wrong sides together lengthwise. Pin the quarter points.

• Mark the quarter points on the bottom of the bodice.

• Place the bottom band inside the bodice, matching quarter points. .

• Stretch the rest of the band evenly to fit. Stitch in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 17 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Hemming: • For the High-low and Curved hem, fold ½” towards the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Edgestitch in place.

• For the Crop, fold 1” towards the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Edge stitch in place.

Drawstring: Use purchased drawstring or you can make your own!

• Cut a strip of fabric 1½” by the width of your fabric.

• Fold right sides together lengthwise.

• Stitch together along the length.

• Insert a safety pin on one of the ends and thread it through, turning it right sides out. Stitch the ends shut.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 18 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Drawstring (continued): • Insert your drawstring of choice into your Crop top.

• Insert your drawstring of choice into your hood.

And You’re Done! And you’re done! Thank you for purchasing my pattern. If you have any questions email me at [email protected]

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 19 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 Glossary: • Backstitch: To stitch in reverse; usually over the beginning and end of a seam to prevent the stitches from becoming loose and fabric pulling apart.

• Baste: To sew with long loose stitches in order to hold something in place temporarily during construction and fitting.

• Bias: A line diagonal to the grain of a fabric; a line at a 45 degree angle to the selvage often uti- lized in the cutting of garments for smoother fit.

• Clipping: A technique that involves cutting slits into the seam allowance of outward curves to permit the edges of the seam to spread and lie smooth. Take great care not to cut into the seam stitching.

• Dart: A triangular shape sewn onto a flat piece of fabric, allowing the fabric to conform to the contours of the body.

• Edgestitch: Straight stitching very close to the edge of a seam, trim, or outer edge. It secures seam allowances, prevents the edge from stretching, and supports the fabric.

• Fabric Stretch Gauge: The guide printed on the back of the pattern envelope to gauge the appro- priate fabric stretch required for the garment design to fit properly.

• Fold: The edge formed by doubling the fabric when the selvage edges meet or are parallel.

• Gathering: A long running stitch that is used to pull fabric together to create a smaller surface area of fabric. Applications of the gathering stitch can be found at the waistline, cuffs, yoke, and in the construction of ruffles.

• Hem: A border of a cloth article doubled back and stitched down.

• Right Side: The outside or topside of fabric; it is usually softer or smoother.

• Seam Allowance: The amount of fabric between the stitching or seam line and the fabric edge.

• Topstitch: Machine stitches done from the right side of a garment for either a decorative effect or for functional reasons, or sometimes for both at the same time. Topstitching gives a garment a more tailored look.

• Understitching: A line of straight stitching, either by hand or machine, applied along certain seam lines such as neckline facing seams. Its purpose is to keep the facing and seam allowances laying flat in a particular direction.

• Wrong side: Usually the inside of a garment or the backside of fabric. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pocket Hood Crop Pg. 20 Long Sleeves Short Sleeves Tank Waistband Hemming Drawstring Zenith Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2019 4cm 212” © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith 22 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith

Cut here for Sleeveless PlaceFold on Zenith Hoodie Standard Pocket Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance23 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith

Grain Line Grain Zenith Hoodie Tunic Pocket Cut 1 on Fold 24

Cut here for Sleeveless

Cut here Zenith for Sleeves Hoodie Tunic Pocket Cut 1 on Fold © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 25

30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 x-small 26 xx-small

Cut here

for Sleeves

PlaceFold on

12 10 6 16 20 24 22 18 4 26 14

xx-small x-small

28 30

Crop

Standard

Tunic Banded

Curved Hem

High-low Zenith Hoodie 27 Back Bodice Cut 1 on Fold © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith 3/8” Seam Allowance 1/2” Hem (High-low and Curved) 1” Hem (Crop)

Grain Line Grain Zenith

6 4 xx-small x-small Hoodie Tunic Pocket Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance

28 Line Grain

12 10 6 16 20 24 22 18 4 26 14

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28 30 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith PlaceFold on

Cut here for Sleeveless

Cut here Zenith for Sleeves

Hoodie Crop Tunic Pocket Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance Standard

Tunic Banded

High-low

Curved Hem

Grain Line Grain Zenith Hoodie 29 on Fold Place Front Bodice Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith 1/2” Hem (High-low and Curved) 1” Hem (Crop) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

x-small xx-small 30

3/8” Seam Allowance © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith 1/2” Hem (High-low and Curved) Grain Line 1” Hem (Crop) xx-small x-small 4 8 6 10 12 14 16 18

20 Line Grain 22 24 26 28 30 31 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith 3/8” Seam Allowance 1/2” Hem (High-low and Curved) 1” Hem (Crop)

Shorten/Lengthen Here Zenith Hoodie Tunic Bottom Band Cut 2 on Fold 32 on Fold Place © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith

xx-small 10 4 8 12 14 16 6 x-small 18 20 22

Zenith Hoodie Tunic Bottom Band Cut 2 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance 33Line Grain © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith 1/2” Hem (High-low and Curved)

1” Hem (Crop)

26 28 30 22 24 20 Shorten/Lengthen Here

xx-small

x-small

18 Drawstring

28 3430 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith 1/2” Hem (High-low and Curved) Grain Line 1” Hem (Crop)

Shorten/Lengthen Here

xx-small x-small 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 35 30 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith xx-small x-small 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

xx-small x-small 4 6 8 3610 12 14 16 18 20

© Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith 22 24 26 28 xx-small Zenith Hoodie Standard Bottom Band Cut 2 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance 37 on Fold Place © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith

6 xx-small x-small 4 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

Zenith Hoodie Standard Bottom Band Cut 2 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance 38Line Grain © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith

28 30 24 26 39 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith xx-small x-small 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

xx-small x-small 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 4018 20 22 24 26 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith xx-small 28 x-small 4 30 6 8 22 24 26 28 xx-small 30 x-small 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 41 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 42 30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 x-small xx-small

43Front © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 44 xx-small 28 x-small 4 30 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28

30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 45 4 x-small xx-small

Zenith Hoodie Hood Cut 2 (Mirror Image) 1 1/4” Hem

3/8” Seam Allowance Grain Line Grain Grain Line Grain 47 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith

Shorten/Lengthen Here Shorten/Lengthen

Short Sleeve Cut Line Cut Sleeve Short

3/8” 3/8” Allowance Seam 3/4” Hem on Short Sleeve Short on Hem 3/4”

48Zenith Hoodie Sleeve Image) 2 (Mirror Cut Grain Line Grain © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 49 Grain Line Grain Zenith Hoodie Cuﬀ Sleeve Long 2 Cut 50 3/8” Allowance Seam © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 51

Zenith Hoodie Hood Cut 2 (Mirror Image) 1 1/4” Hem 3/8” Seam Allowance xx-small

x-small 4

14 xx-small

x-small

Drawstring 18 20 4 22

24 6 26 8

30 10

52 24

Back

xx-small

x-small

18 20

5322 24

28 30 © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith Zenith Hoodie Tank Arm Band 54 on Fold Place Cut 2 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance © Zenith Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by Hoodie © Zenith

8 18 20 22 24 30 10 12 14 16 26 28 6 xx-small x-small 4