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Personal Care Personal Care Jungbunzlauer’s comprehensive personal care solutions

Environmental awareness is vital for human well-being and for the health of our planet. Consumers’ expectations are in flux and the preference for natural and renewable products is creating a new market with strong growth. For the development of personal care products in this segment, Jungbunzlauer transforms nature’s raw materials – by way of clean and authorised processes – into outstanding ingredients and offers natural solutions for personal care formulations.

Functionality is the key to success

New formulations play a vital role in the growth and development by supplying them with a broad range of useful bio-based additives. of a company. Meeting consumer trends and preferences for natural In order to facilitate the selection of our various products, we have products is therefore an essential component of a company’s organised the brochure according to the functionalities which they strategy for market success. Jungbunzlauer provides support for perform in personal care products. developers of the cosmetics industry seeking to expand their brand

Soap and Bath Skin Care Hair Care Colour Cosmetics Deodorants Fragrances Products

Lactic Acid Anti-bacterial & Lactate Lactic Acid Citrate Anti-inflammatory Lactate Potassium Lactate Zinc Citrate Sodium Lactate Zinc Lactate Zinc Gluconate Zinc Lactate / Monosodium Citrate / / Gluconolactone / Lactic Acid / Buffered Lactic Acid Buffering Sodium Citrate / / Sodium Gluconate / / Sodium Lactate / Potassium Lactate

Chelation & Synergy Citric Acid / Sodium Citrate / Potassium Citrate / Gluconic Acid / Sodium Gluconate / Potassium Gluconate with antioxidants Combability Erythritol (ERYLITE ®)

Triethyl Citrate Deodorising (CITROFOL® AI) Citric Acid Exfoliation Lactic Acid Gluconolactone

T Fixation riethyl Citrate (CITROFOL® AI) Erythritol (ERYLITE ®) Potassium Lactate Moisturising & Sodium Lactate Humectancy Gluconolactone Sodium Gluconate Lactate and ( Gluconate)

Tributyl Citrate (CITROFOL ® BI) P l a s t i f i c a t i o n Acetyl Tributyl Citrate (CITROFOL ® BII)

Triethyl Citrate (CITROFOL ® AI)

Softening Tributyl Citrate (CITROFOL ® BI) Acetyl Tributyl Citrate (CITROFOL ® BII)

Acetyl Tributyl Citrate Solubilisation (CITROFOL ® BII)

Thickening & Xanthan Gum Stabilisation

Product names are listed according to INCI Anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory

Antimicrobial agents are used to reduce or prevent the growth of levels in cosmetics. Jungbunzlauer’s zinc also have excellent microorganisms. However, for sensitive applications like personal anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effects and are therefore used care products the possibilities are limited and legal requirements in skin care and particularly in anti-acne products. In shaving are very strict. It is therefore beneficial to use multifunctional products, zinc salts act as astringents to prevent skin irritations ingredients like lactic acid and lactates, which exhibit anti-bacterial and inflammation. and bacteriostatic properties, respectively, while used at typical

Buffering

Buffering agents are used to adjust and stabilise the pH of cosmetic When choosing the buffering agent it is therefore important to not products. Jungbunzlauer’s citric acid, monosodium citrate, lactic only consider the pH of the end product, but also the other functions acid, buffered lactic acid, gluconic acid and glucono-delta- provided by these organic acids and salts. The use of multifunctional lactone – the inner ester of gluconic acid – are used to decrease ingredients helps to shorten ingredient lists on the label and the pH value of cosmetic formulations when required. to limit costs.

Fully neutralised salts – trisodium citrate, tripotassium citrate, The physical form may also play an important role in certain sodium lactate, potassium lactate, sodium gluconate, production processes. Citric acid and citrates, glucono-delta- potassium gluconate – stabilise or raise it. lactone and sodium gluconate are typically available in dry form – fine powders but also coarser granules for less dusting – with 100% Citric acid and citrates have the widest buffering range from pH 2 active substance content. Gluconic acid, lactic acid and lactates to 7. Lactic acid, lactates, gluconic acid, glucono-delta-lactone, are available as 50% to 90% solutions in water, depending on the sodium gluconate and potassium gluconate buffer from pH 3 to 5. product. As all organic acids and salts are present in the metabolic pathways of our cells they exhibit a high degree of product safety. Buffering is Citric Acid DC is a surface modified and direct compressible type of just one technological feature of these typically multifunctional citric acid. A hydrosoluble coating improves both processing speed ingredients. and enhances firmness of the end product. For example, when used in effervescent care products like bath bombs it shortens the drying process without influencing the dissolution behaviour. Monosodium citrate and glucono-delta-lactone are technologically interesting ingredients for bath bombs as well. The former is a dry buffered form of citric acid, providing a milder effervescence than the pure acid. The latter is a controlled release acid that prolongs the effervescent effect. Chelation and synergy with antioxidants

The presence of metal in raw materials and water or their metal ions to form a complex and thus prevents the metal from release from the processing equipment can lead to unwanted acting as a catalyst in oxidative reactions. Hence, deterioration due reactions in personal care formulations. To prevent problems like to chemical reactions with oxygen in moisturising creams and lotions rancidity, discolouration, precipitation and degradation of ingredients, may be slowed or even prevented. Sodium gluconate , in particular, Jungbunzlauer offers outstanding natural alternatives to conventional has the ability to inactivate and ions over a wide pH chelating agents made by chemical synthesis. range, thus helping to protect oils and actives in skin care – especially UV filters in sunscreens – and soap and bath products Citric acid , gluconic acid and their sodium and potassium salts as well as sensitive ingredients in fragrances from discolouration, are powerful chelating agents for trace metal ions. Citric acid acts degradation and rancidity. In many cases it can replace EDTA. as a synergist for antioxidants. As a chelating agent it reacts with

Combability

ERYLITE ® is a crystalline form of erythritol which occurs naturally in force needed. Hair treated with a product including ERYLITE ® is grapes, melon and fermented foods. Based on a yeast more manageable and consequently, styling becomes much easier process it is the only polyalcohol that can be considered natural. and quicker. In addition, ERYLITE ® also achieves a moisturising Next to its moisturising properties, ERYLITE ® proves to improve hair effect on the scalp as well as an anti-frizz effect, delivering thus a combability when contained in hair care products such as shampoos great performance in regard to the basic requirements of modern or conditioners, displayed through a significantly decreased combing hair care systems.

Deodorising

The function of deodorants is to prevent body odour which develops when the originally odourless sweat is decomposed by microorganisms.

Jungbunzlauer’s well-known active deodorising agent, CITROFOL ® AI , meets all the criteria for a 48 hour deodorising effect. There is no substantial interference with the natural biological processes of the skin and CITROFOL ® AI is even safe in cases of excessive or abnormal use. CITROFOL ® AI also integrates well in personal care formulations and shows no reaction with other components. Furthermore, repeated usage does not lead to accumulation on the skin. CITROFOL ® AI is used in liquid formulations, in aerosol sprays, roll-on sticks and deo sticks.

The anti-bacterial properties of Jungbunzlauer's zinc salts re duce the growth of those microorganisms responsible for odour – making it a perfect choice for deodorant products.

Exfoliation

The removal of dead cells of the stratum corneum helps to maintain compared to glycolic acid. It is therefore used at levels of 3-10% healthy skin. Besides physical removal through abrasive scrubbing in exfoliating creams with a pH ≥ 3.5 for regular use at home, but or microdermabrasion, exfoliation can be achieved by chemicals – also in significantly higher concentrations in chemical peels applied preferably gentle products. Hydroxy-acids like Jungbunzlauer’s by aestheticians or dermatologists. Cosmetic grade of lactic acid organic acids are typically used for this purpose. Citric and lactic is available as 90% highly pure solution in water. acids are alpha-hydroxy-acids (AHA) and gluconic acid, as well as glucono-delta-lactone, are poly-hydroxy-acids (PHA). Glucono-delta-lactone is a less powerful exfoliant than lactic acid, but it is more gentle to the skin as it is a larger molecule and consequently Lactic acid is a powerful exfoliant. Its skin cell renewal performance penetrates the skin more slowly. Therefore, it constitutes a smooth is higher than that of citric acid and malic acid and comparable to alternative to the AHAs, especially in applications where the irritant that of glycolic acid, yet the L(+) form of lactic acid is less irritating side-effect needs to be reduced or eliminated. Moisturising and humectancy

Standard moisturisers are frequently produced by chemical synthesis and can thus not be used for natural care. Some of them also confer a sticky texture to skin care products or exhibit other sensorial and technological drawbacks. Jungbunzlauer offers a comprehensive range of moisturisers which can help to overcome these issues. Some of these moisturisers can also be used as humectants in soap bars and wipes.

ERYLITE ® is a premium moisturiser, preventing stickiness in skin care formulations as well as unpleasant odour. It is particularly useful for creams and lotions. Jungbunzlauer has proven in its studies that the use of 3% ERYLITE ® can increase the level of skin moisture by up to 27%. These studies further revealed valuable synergies when ERYLITE ® is used together with the standard moisturiser glycerine.

Because of their high water holding capacity and skin friendliness as components of the natural moisturising factor (NMF) of the skin, sodium lactate and potassium lactate serve as smooth moisturisers in both leave-on and rinse-off products. Cosmetic grades of Jungbunzlauer sodium lactate and potassium lactate are available as 60% highly pure solutions in water. Clinical tests with a skin cream containing 3% of sodium lactate have shown an increase of the skin hydration by 23% vs. no treatment and by 8% compared Ultimately, all Jungbunzlauer moisturisers are skin friendly, compatible to a cream without moisturiser after two weeks of daily application. with each other and with glycerine, permitting formulators to achieve In vivo tests with a shower gel containing 5% of potassium lactate the desired performance, sensorial and technological targets by have shown an increase in skin moisture content by 11% vs. a combining them. shower gel without moisturiser when applied daily over a period of two weeks. The tests also confirmed that Jungbunzlauer’s lactates provide a pleasant skin feel compared to glycerine. Plastification Jungbunzlauer sodium gluconate is another crystalline moisturiser, particularly adapted for mass market soap and bath products. Commonly plasticisers are added to advance plasticity and fluidity Due to its molecular structure with a number of hydroxyl groups, the properties of a material. Jungbunzlauer’s CITROFOL ® citrate esters gluconate molecule is able to bind water. Glucono-delta-lactone are safe, non-volatile plasticisers used to lower the brittleness of is a premium version of this gluconate molecule, with an outstanding polymers in hair styling and conditioning products. Due to their active substance content. It is particularly advisable for leave-on excellent compatibility to a wide variety of polymers they ensure products. A skin cream containing 3% of glucono-delta-lactone has sufficient elasticity, permanence and resistance to humidity for the been shown to improve the relative skin moisture content by 25% hair care products. vs. no treatment and by 10% vs. a cream without moisturiser. This is a comparable performance to that of the same cream containing Our well established CITROFOL ® esters are also used in colour 3% glycerine, but with an improved skin feel. cosmetics. Cosmetic nail lacquers enhance the care for finger and toe nails and give them form and colour. For this application our Last but not least, Jungbunzlauer calcium lactate gluconate , CITROFOL ® esters offer multifunctional solutions. Besides their a double calcium of lactic acid and gluconic acid and the most excellent plasticising properties they perform as dispersing aids and soluble organic calcium salt, completes Jungbunzlauer’s range diluents, either in nitro-cellulose/solvent-based or in acrylate/water- of premium moisturisers. A shower gel with 5% of calcium lactate based formulations. gluconate has been able to increase the skin moisture content by 13% vs. the same shower gel without moisturiser. Thickening and stabilisation

Xanthan gum is a naturally occurring polysaccharide produced by fermentation. Its most important functional property is the ability to control the rheology of water-based systems. Xanthan gum solutions are highly pseudoplastic, which means they combine excellent stabilising properties with easy flow. In rest and at low shear rates xanthan provides very high viscosity and a strong ability to stabilise emulsions and suspensions. When high shear is applied the viscosity drops instantly, which makes xanthan containing products easy to process and apply by mixing, pumping or spraying.

For personal care applications Jungbunzlauer offers a range of special personal care grades that meet the highest quality and purity standards. Special features are the very low microbial plate counts, Softening the absence of amylase and cellulase activity and a high degree of whiteness. Emollients are the most versatile key components in many cosmetic products. Emollients contribute to the moisturising, The range includes regular xanthan gum and grades with enhanced lubricating, protecting, conditioning and softening performance functionality like clarity and modified flow behaviour. Transparent of cosmetic formulations. personal care products can be made using the special clear solution grades that provide all the stabilising and shear thinning properties of As medium spreading oils, CITROFOL ® esters not only improve regular xanthan gum without imparting the typical turbidity. Special the properties related to emollients, but also ease the emulsification grades with reduced pseudoplasticity offer less stability and shear of creams, skin feel and polarity respectively. While formulating thinning and can be used to improve the flow or spreadability of cosmetics, product developers can choose between specific viscous creams and gels. CITROFOL ® esters to refine several important factors such as naturalness, viscosity, polarity, and spreading values. The personal care grades are available with different particle size distributions, which allows a selection based on the individual blending and mixing processes. While the fine grades blend well with most other ingredients, the coarser, agglomerated grades allow easy Solubilisation dispersion with low mixing efforts.

Most colour pigments for eye shadows, lip sticks or nail lacquers are solid, expensive and therefore used in low concentrations. Solubilisers help to form a colour mixture, which can be easily dosed and processed to a homogeneous coloured product.

Due to their high solvent efficacy CITROFOL ® esters are ideal additives for this application. They exhibit excellent storage stability and, as non-volatile organic compounds (non-VOC), they do not contribute to any environmental emissions. Conformity to the natural and organic cosmetic standards of ECOCERT and COSMOS

Producers and consumers are increasingly looking for credibility. formulate natural personal care products certified according to the The inspection of the raw materials by a neutral body on conformity ECOCERT and COSMOS Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards. to the natural and organic cosmetic standards meets this expectation.

The bulk of Jungbunzlauer range of personal care, cosmetic, *ECOCERT Greenlife is an independent organisation with a well-recognised standard for cleaning and detergent ingredients are approved by COSMOS as natural and organic cosmetics. COSMOS (COSMetic Organic Standard) was developed by chemically processed agricultural ingredients and ECOCERT several organisations including ECOCERT to define common requirements and definitions certified as ingredients of 100% natural origin. Our products are for organic and/or natural cosmetics. therefore an assurance for all producers seeking ingredients to

Ethical, health or environmental concerns – we take them seriously

A continuously growing number of people choose a vegetarian or offerings of animal-free products. Jungbunzlauer offers naturally vegan lifestyle. does not stop at the edge of a plate, sourced ingredients for personal care products which are fully suitable but covers all articles of daily use including personal care products. for vegetarians and vegans. Producers world-wide consequently adapt their range to broaden the

Non-GMO Positioning

Jungbunzlauer can provide products following a strict Non-GMO All fermentation is done by using natural and non-genetically policy. All raw materials used in our European manufacturing processes modified microorganisms. are purchased according to strict Non-GMO specifications.

Oral care

Please see our specific folder for Jungbunzlauer ingredients in oral care.

The information contained herein has been compiled carefully to the best of our knowledge. We do not accept any responsibility or liability for the information given in respect to the described products. Our products have to be applied under full and own responsibility of the user, especially in respect to any patent rights of others and any law or government regulation. p 4 J H i b T J C J v b l J f J N n a e h r a u u u u 0 i e o c t e o r H e o r e n n n n d v m 0

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