A communication Guide for McLaren Vale Grapegrowers & Wineries
Grape, Wine & Tourism Association Speaking of Grapes and Wine….
A Communication Guide for Grapegrowers and Wineries
Compiled by McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association
Grape, Wine & Tourism Association
2 CONTENTS
Acknowledgements 4
Foreword 5
Introduction 6
How to use this guide 7
Section 1
Communication Guide 8
Section 2
Grape growing / Viticulture Terminology 11
Canopy 11
Fruit 22
Section 3
McLaren Vale Winegrape / Wine Terminology 31
Fruit and Wine Descriptor Defi nitions 35
Further Reading 36
Notes 37
3 ACKNOWLEDMENTS
Sponsor This book is the result of cooperation between the Cooperative Research Centre for Viticulture (CRCV) and the McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association (MVGWTA). The region is grateful for the CRCV’s support. Project Leader Ian Atkinson Project Manager Paula Edwards Project Reference Group Anne Binns, Briony Hoare, Tony Hoare, James Hook, Adrian Kenny, Richard McGeachy, Corrina Rayment, David Sanderson. Industry Collaborators Chester Osborne (D’Arenberg Wines), Dr Peter Dry (University of Adelaide), Mardi Longbottom (University of Adelaide), Dr Erika Winter (Grapelinks), Sam Connew (Wirra Wirra), Simon Parker (Haselgrove Wines), Jane Paull. Technical referees Mary Retallack, Prudence Honner. Editing Poppy Gee Photographs Unless otherwise indicated, photographs in this booklet have been provided by the following: Anne Binns Photos 2a, 2b, 5b, 5c, 8b, 25, 26, 30, 37c Tony Hoare Photos 5a, 6, 8a, 9b, 10a, 10b, 15, 19a, 19b James Hook Photos 14b, 36c, 37a Mardi Longbottom Photo 29 Richard McGeachy Photos 20a, 20b, 21b, 22a, 22b, 31a, 31b, 36a, 38a David Sanderson Photos 2c, 3a, 3b, 3c, 3d, 4b, 16a, 16b, 17a, 17c, 39b Mary Retallack Photos 9a, 32a MVGWTA Photo 14a, 35a Scholefi eld Robinson Horticultural Services Photos 1a, 1b, 4a, 7b, 11a, 11b, 12, 13, 17b, 21a, 23, 24, 27a, 27b, 28, 32b, 34, 35b, 36b, 37b, 38b, 38c, 39a, 39c, 39d Erika Winter Photo 33
All photographs are copyright ©. They cannot be reproduced without permission.
4 FOREWARD
Precise communication and shared This guide is the product of the collaborative understanding is a key to productive efforts of grapegrowers and winemakers. relationships everywhere. In the pursuit of These materials are available to other like- wine quality, in an age of increasing personal minded regional groups across Australia and specialisation of skills, successful transactions I encourage those groups to take up that between grape growers and winemakers or opportunity. their grower liaison people depend on these I commend the McLaren Vale Grape Wine features. and Tourism Association for tackling this When encouraged by the Cooperative issue with an enthusiasm and rigour that will Research Centre for Viticulture’s Viticare become clear as you read this publication. extension team to identify one of the most We can all look forward to the ultimate pressing regional technical issues related reward for their efforts - in a glass. to grape and wine quality the McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association identifi ed the need for a ‘common language’ to be spoken by grape producers and grape purchasers. Lack of clarity and meaning had become a common source of frustration and potential mistrust between two groups, both seeking to achieve the same goal - wines of the highest quality. An agreed price, a list of grape quality specifi cations and a set of prescribed practices alone were never going to assure achievement of that goal. Jim Hardie Cooperative Research Centre for Viticulture The CRCV, with its aim to ‘accelerate (CRCV) quality management from vine to palate.....’ enthusiastically supported their initiative. It is a natural complement to the CRCV’s efforts Disclaimer to develop objective measures of grape MV Terminology Booklet has been quality. written on behalf of the MVGWTA and in partnership with the CRCV. The information The need for a common winegrowing contained in this book is a guide only and language is not unique to McLaren Vale is not intended to be comprehensive nor and with perhaps a little adaptation to constitute advice. The MVGWTA accepts no accommodate regional “dialects” it will responsibility for the consequences of the stimulate similar efforts elsewhere. use of this information. And as long as the meanings are clear, Copyright in the content of this book is owned relationships that are vital may be by the MVGWTA, unless otherwise indicated strengthened.
5 INTRODUCTION
Communication between wine grape growers to use both preceding and following growers and wineries is one of the key vintage to solicit supply and wine grape issues that the McLaren Vale wine industry quality feedback from grape purchasers. stakeholders face today. Many questions More often than not viticultural and come to mind… winemaking terms are consistent across What do winemakers actually mean when they Australia’s wine growing regions. There are discuss fruit quality in the vineyard and winery? however, a number of terms and descriptors that are regionally specifi c to McLaren Vale. What do wine grape growers mean when they This booklet attempts to describe these describe cultural practices to winemakers or and other general terms for four of the winery personnel? region’s most popular, signature varieties: What is the best information to provide Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and winemakers or winery personnel? Chardonnay. Do I clearly understand the wine grape This booklet is the outcome of collaboration specifi cations set by my winery? between the members of the McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association This booklet aims to provide both wine and the Cooperative Research Centre for grape growers and winemakers of the Viticulture. McLaren Vale region with benefi cial information to better understand their production requirements. It also suggests communication methods for wine grape How to use this guide This booklet has been written for grape growers with suggestions on when to both wine grape growers and winery meet and what information to include, or personnel, including grower liaison staff and ask for, during discussions with wineries. winemakers. Sections 2 and 3 incorporate written It consists of three sections: and pictorial descriptions of terminology commonly used by both winegrowers Section 1 and winery personnel. The aim is to clarify A Communication Guide for Wine Grape these terms so that both parties fully Growers and Winemakers understand each other when setting winery Section 2 specifi cations. Grape growing / Viticulture Terminology In particular, Section 2 defi nes viticultural Section 3 terms relating to the canopy and fruit. Winegrape / Wine Terminology Section 3 aims to defi ne the preferred Section 1 includes a template for both winegrape characteristics (fruit fl avour written and verbal communication to and mouth feel), fruit and wine quality, and wineries by grapegrowers. It provides wine regional wine characteristics.
6 COMMUNICATION GUIDE A Communication Guide Guide A Communication Growers Wine Grape for and Winemakers COMMUNICATION GUIDE
A Communication Guide for Wine Grape Growers and Winemakers
The following guide identifi es key questions • If you are at all unsure of the winery’s that wine grape growers can use when expectations of your fruit, ask for speaking with their grape purchaser to clarifi cation and set yourself benchmarks. ensure they are delivering to their required • Constantly monitor your production and specifi cations. quality performance against specifi cation Key factors to ensure improved by communication with your winery or communication between winegrowers and winemaker. winery personnel include There is value in compiling information • The provision of timely and up to date on the vineyard each year. It allows the information about the vineyard. winegrower to benchmark practice against high quality years. It may also assist to • Understanding the requirements of the negotiate new grape purchase contracts winery in terms of: with wineries because the background • current end use, data on vineyard management is available • target or preferred end use, to wineries in an informative document. • yield parameters, Sections 2 and 3 of this book may assist you to summarise your vineyard from season to • future or long term grape supply season. requirements, and • fruit quality specifi cations. At the back of this book there is a section for notes. This section is a useful place to • Solicit your own feedback rather than note any particular winery specifi cations or waiting for the winery to ring you. fi eld comments. • Become familiar with the times of the year when wineries, or winemakers, are most busy and therefore less likely to be available to discuss your grape supply questions. • In order to build the relationship with your grape purchaser, invite winery staff to inspect your vineyards with you. • During vineyard inspections initiate discussion regarding the quality of the fruit by giving winery personnel your opinion fi rst.
7 COMMUNICATION GUIDE
Grower / Winery Communication Checklist
Grower / Winemaker Review Meeting Use this Communication Checklist when practice changes to meet winery you meet with your winemaker / GLO. This specifi cation. Solicit winemaker feedback by meeting should take place in June to allow asking questions that are relevant to your for implementation of vineyard management business.
1. What are the quality parameters / specifi cations for my block? • Current • For the next 3-4 years • Longer term (> 5 years) (include specifi c parameters such as yield, colour, Baume, berry size, acid levels)
2. Do you feel my fruit is meeting the quality specifi cations set by the winery?
3. What additional viticultural practices could I implement or improve on to reach the fruit standard you require?
4. Are there any yield specifi cations / parameters for my particular patch?
5. What are the winery specifi cations you require me to meet? (include specifi cations / parameters such as pruning, irrigation and canopy management practices, harvest method, etc.)
8 COMMUNICATION GUIDE
Grower / Winery Vineyard Summary Sheet
To From Company Company Contact Phone: Mobile: Date Growth Stage Block Detail Name Grower No Address Variety Clone Vineyard History (briefl y summarise what has occurred in the vineyard for the current growing season)
Block Description (overall comment on trellis style (eg ballerina), canopy and fruit description)
Trellis Canopy vigour yield vine balance Fruit condition bunch size berry size / weight berry colour Fruit fl avour Other relevant information
9 COMMUNICATION GUIDE
Notes
10 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Grap growing / growing Grap Viticulture Terminology GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE
Canopy
Bud Fruitfulness and trellis type. For cooler climates such Bud fruitfulness is a characteristic of as McLaren Vale, the suggested leaf area grapevines that determines the quantity of range should be between 12 and 15 cm2/g. bunches per bud (or shoot). A number of Winter and Whiting (Aust. Viticulture Jan factors can affect bud fruitfulness including 2004 pp70-73) outline the procedures to excessive shading within the canopy caused assess active leaf area. Photos 1a and 1b. by poor trellis selection, dense canopies and seasonal conditions such as prolonged cool, wet weather during spring. Canopy The above ground parts of the vine, in particular the shoots and leaves. Balance A vine can be described as ‘balanced’ when vegetative growth and fruit load are in equilibrium and consistent with high fruit quality (Gladstones 1992). Dry et al (2004) Photo 1a: Balanced Cabernet Sauvignon, describes other indicators of balance such McLaren Flat as early maturity, the vines ability to store good reserves of carbohydrate, low shoot variability and cessation of shoot growth by veraison. Balance in the current season requires a vine to have an adequate number of active leaves or an adequate shoot to fruit ratio that will allow it to fully ripen fruit. Vine balance can be assessed by a number of methods. The most common is the use of fruit weight to pruning weight ratios with the optimal Y/P value being in the range of 5 to10 (Dry et al, 2004). The weight of the Photo 1b: Balanced Shiraz, Onkaparinga Gorge dormant wood removed at pruning is an indication of the vine’s capacity to produce Basal yellowing and ripen a crop in year two. The yellowing of the oldest leaves of the shoot located nearest the cordon / cane. The second method is to measure the This may be exacerbated by excess shading active leaf area per gram of fruit, expressed in the canopy or water stress. as cm2/g. Optimum active leaf area varies depending on variety but the levels noted in Winter and Whiting (2004) ranged from 6 up to 25 depending on variety, climate
11 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Canopy management Canopy management is the implementation of canopy related viticultural practices to infl uence vine growth, leaf and fruit exposure and yield. Dappled light Dappled light is the pattern that forms either on the ground beneath the vine row, or in the fruiting zone, as sunlight passes through the canopy. Dappled light is a direct indication of the density of the canopy. The greater the density of the canopy, the less Photo 2c sunlight present on the ground, and vice Defoliation versa. To the viticulturist it is an indication (excessive / moderate) that there is enough light inside the canopy A degree of leaf loss resulting from either to facilitate photosynthesis. Photos 2a, 2b environmental stress or cultural practice, or and 2c show dappled light cast from various both, that compromises a vine’s capacity to canopies. ripen fruit. Photos 3a, 3b, 3c and 3d.
Photo 2a Photo 3a: Defoliation in Shiraz caused by water logging
Photo 2b Photo 3b: Post veraison defoliation in Shiraz
12 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE
Photo 3c: Asymptomatic defoliation in Shiraz (overcropping, water stress & heat stress)
Photo 4a: Fruit zone
Photo 3d: Late season onset of defoliation in Shiraz resulting from water stress Fruit zone The fruit zone is the location of the majority of the fruit within the canopy, often occurring as a horizontal band along the vine row. The fruit zone is dependent on the trellis style and growth habit of the vine Photo 4b: An exposed fruit zone in VSP and can be manipulated to increase sunlight into the fruit zone by leaf or shoot removal. Positioning of foliage using foliage wires can assist to expose the fruit zone. Photo 4a. An over exposed fruit zone is one where the fruit zone has little or no protection from the sun by leaves. This can result from either unbalanced vines, vines where the canopy has rolled or vines that have undergone excessive leaf removal. Photo 4b
13 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Heat stress Hedging Heat stress can present as burnt foliage in The trimming of the sides and the tops of response to extremely high temperatures. It the vine to create a hedge (in a rectangular reduces the photosynthetic capacity of the or box shape). Hedging is often done to vine and therefore its ability to effectively facilitate machine access and can involve ripen fruit. In severe conditions it can result the removal of larger amounts of growth in complete defoliation of the vine. Photos than trimming. Excessive hedging can leave 5a, 5b and 5c show the results of heat stress a vine without enough leaf area to ripen during the 2005-06 growing season. fruit, resulting in fruit quality issues including uneven veraison as well as over exposed and damaged bunches. As a guide, about 8-12 fully functioning leaves per shoot are required to adequately ripen the fruit on each shoot. Photo 6
Photo 5a
Photo 6: A vine that has been hedged too close Lateral shoots Shoots that form at each leaf node along the main shoot. They are generally unfruitful and strong growth of these shoots can be associated with high vigour. They also grow in response to mechanical damage on the tip Photo 5b of the main shoot. Photos 7a and 7b
Photo 7a: Lateral growth on young vines Photo 5c
14 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Leaf loss from stress Early leaf loss occurs as a result of exposure to different forms of stress such as high temperatures, water stress and mechanical damage to the vascular tissues of the vine. Excessive leaf loss causes a reduction in the active leaf area of vines which hinders the vine’s ability to fully ripen fruit. In turn, this causes loss in fruit quality from both unwanted fruit exposure and less than optimal fruit ripeness. Refer to pictures Photo 7b: Lateral growth in Cabernet Sauvignon, under defoliation. McLaren Vale Lignifi cation Leaf cupping / folding Lignifi cation is the process whereby the The blades of the leaves turn upwards, or current year’s green shoots harden and fold, to form a cup shape. Cupping can occur change to a brown colour. Photos 9a and 9b for a number of reasons: on days of extreme show shoots starting to lignify. heat or as a result of disease eg powdery mildew infection. Photos 8a & 8b show leaf cupping or folding in extreme heat.
Photo 9a
Photo 8a
Photo 9b
Photo 8b
15 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Pruning (winter) The most common pruning system used throughout McLaren Vale is “Spur Pruning” whereby last year’s canes growing from a permanent or semi-permanent cordon are pruned back to a set number of nodes to form a ‘spur’. In McLaren Vale, typically there are 2 nodes (buds) left per spur (excluding the base bud). Photo 10a. If the vines are more vigorous, then in an attempt to balance vegetative growth and increase cropping potential, more buds are Photo 10b : Cane pruned vines often retained. This is done using the “Finger Rolling (of canopy) and Thumb” pruning system. It is similar to The rolling of the canopy to one side as a the spur pruning system but rather than result of wind or canopy weight. It occurs reduce two canes to a normal two bud spur, when the vine cordon / structure is not the upper cane is retained and shortened to strong enough to be able to support the around 4 buds. vine. It is often a problem in young Shiraz Another pruning system is ‘Cane Pruning’ or vines and can be corrected by the use of ‘Rod and Spur’. In this system, fruiting wood either permanent catch wires, or moveable is pruned to a combination of long (8 nodes foliage wires. or more) canes whilst two bud spurs are Rolling can also be a problem on trellis retained to provide replacement canes for systems where the distance between the the following season. The remaining canes cordon and the highest available wire are then secured to the trellis by rolling position is too short. As shoots extend past them around the wire(s) or tying them on. the top wire (either catch or foliage), the Photo10b. weight of the unsupported canopy causes it to fall to one side and produce shading problems (see Verandah). Rolling of the canopy may cause excessive fruit variability resulting from differing levels of fruit exposure from within the vine canopy. As the canopy rolls it causes one side of the fruit zone to be shaded and the other exposed. The exposed side is then susceptible to heat and sunburn. The extent of fruit damage (sunburn and heat damage) is exacerbated when the exposed fruit Photo 10a : Spur pruned vines resulting from rolling faces either west or north. Photos 11a and 11b demonstrate where the canopy has rolled under the weight of fruit & canopy.
16 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE shading caused by leaves within the canopy. In extreme cases shading inhibits photosynthesis in leaves which is detrimental for fruit quality. Photo 13.
Photo 11a
Photo 13: Shading inside the canopy Shoot density Shoot density is defi ned as the number of shoots per metre of canopy. This number varies depending on the type of trellis system, for example, the ideal density for vertical shoot positioned (VSP) trellis system is 10-15 shoots per metre. For sprawling Photo 11b canopies, shoot density can reach levels of Senescence up to 30 shoots per metre. A physiological process initiated by Short shoots leaf age, stress (including disease) or a Short shoots are shoots within the canopy response to lowering temperatures and that are shorter than preferred and can shorter photoperiod (day length) causing be the result of either lack of vigour or discolouration and leaf loss from the vine. excessive trimming. As a guide minimum Photo 12. shoot length at veraison should be greater than 50cm. Short shoots have fruit quality implications due to a reduced active leaf area. See ‘Balance’. Skirting The removal of the shoot tips from low, or downward pointing shoots of the canopy to either give machinery access for undervine activities (eg herbicide application), or reduce pressure from Photo 12: Stages of leaf senescence disease. It also prevents potential damage to Shading shoots as machinery passes through the row. Excessive shading of fruit and shoots Skirting is commonly performed in Shiraz in generally occurs in dense canopies McLaren Vale. or canopies that have rolled. This is
17 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Tipping The fi rst pass with a trimmer to remove the tip (0-300 mm) of the shoot from either the sides or top of the vine only. Trellis Systems The main trellis system used in McLaren Vale is the single cordon, non-positioned canopy. It forms a sprawling canopy and it is common across McLaren Vale for the system to be set up with 1 or 2 catch wires. There are two-tiered versions of this system but there appears to be a move across the region back to the single cordon (taken from the McLaren Vale Regional Profi le, 2006). Another two popular systems are the Fig14b: Schematic diagram of the Ballerina vertical shoot position (VSP) system and system the Ballerina. Both systems have shoots Trimming positioned vertically and utilise moveable The process of removing the tips of shoots foliage wires to assist in the positioning of from sides, top or both. Trimming is also used the foliage. In VSP, all shoots are positioned to contain a canopy in a pre-determined upwards while in Ballerina the lower half of shape (eg to allow vehicle passage) without the canopy is allowed to fall downwards by the negative effects of hedging. If performed means of the weight of the canopy. Photos either too early or too often during the 14a and 14b. growing season trimming will encourage the formation of laterals. Photo 15
Photo 14a: A Vertical Shoot Positioned system Photo 15: Trimming Unbalanced A description of the imbalance of leaf area to crop load. ‘Unbalanced’ can refer to a vine with too much fruit, too little canopy to effectively ripen the fruit, or a dense canopy that results in the shading of the fruit.
18 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE When there is too much fruit and a lack of canopy cover, the fruit is generally over exposed. Exposed fruit is at risk of both sunburn and heat damage and is often unable to achieve optimum ripeness. Dense canopies cause fruit to be shaded and display under ripe characters at harvest. When the canopy is extremely dense the vines are often referred to as “Feral or Triffi d”. Photos 16a and 16b show heavy crop loads causing imbalance in vines. Photo 17a
Photo 16a Photo 17b
Photo 16b Photo 17c Photos 17a, 17b and17c show vines displaying Variability excessive shoot growth resulting in dense Between vines in a vineyard canopies. In vineyards, variability is the unevenness of vine growth habit such as vegetative growth, vine size, degree of fruit exposure and yield. It results from external factors such as soil type, clonal differences, pests and disease and water management. Variability across a vineyard can result in fruit variability
19 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE between and within the vines. Photo 18 shows an example of a Plant Cell Density Map used to identify areas of variability within the vineyard.
Photo 19b Photo 18 (taken from the web) Between fruit on a vine Vigorous A term used to describe the growth habit Variability between bunches within a vine, or of shoots. The length of vigorous shoots between berries within a bunch, relates to ranges from 2.0 metres, up to 4.0 metres in the difference in berry size and ripeness. This extreme cases. In addition they also display form of variability can result in unwanted elongated internode spacing and larger than fruit characteristics. average leaves. Strong lateral growth is a Verandah symptomatic indicator of vigorous shoots. The ‘verandah’ effect occurs in Vertically Vine Balance Shoot Positioned vines where shoot growth The optimal ratio of leaf area and crop load. extends past the upper foliage wire to an See ‘Balance’ extent where the weight of foliage causes it to fall to one side, causing shading. Photos Water Stress 19a and 19b. Water stress occurs when there is a lack of available water in the soil. When vines begin to suffer from water stress, the stomata of the leaves close and the rate of photosynthesis and transpiration slows down. The onset of water stress is demonstrated by tendrils wilting at midday, referred to as ‘slight stress’. ‘Moderate to high stress’ is indicated when all leaves appear dull-green in colour and shoot growth stops. As vines move towards ‘severe to extreme water stress’ basal leaves yellow and eventually drop. Krstic et al (2003) Photo 19a provides further information on water stress indicators.
20 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE
Fruit
Berry Size / Berry weight (fresh) A measure of the grape berry, expressed in either diameter (millimetres) or weight (grams) once detached from the bunch. Berry Stress Occurs when external conditions causes the berry to lose turgor resulting in the onset of berry shrivel. Berry surface scarring Scarring that occurs on the surface of the Photo 20b berries from physical damage. Damage often Bird damage results from berries rubbing against leaves Can be in the form of pluck-damage or shoots. Scarring can have wine quality (removal of the full berry) or peck-damage implications if berry splitting occurs adjacent (breaking the berry skin). Peck-damage to the scar. Once splitting is present the exposes the fruit to disease such as botrytis fruit is exposed to potential disease issues and sour rots. Pluck-damage may result in (Botrytis and other rots). Photos 20a and signifi cant crop loss.Photos 21a and 21b 20b show scarring on the berry surface. show various peck-damage on Shiraz.
Photo 20a
Photo 21a
21 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE
Photo 21b Photo 22b: Bloom intact Bloom Bunch descriptions The waxy covering on the berry surface Open (or loose) that gives it an opaque appearance. Bloom A bunch where the majority of berries are is easily dislodged from the surface when not touching each other. Photo 23. touched. Photos 22a and 22b. Well-fi lled Note: in USA, fl owering is referred to as Bloom A bunch which has both berries that are touching others, and berries that remain loose within the bunch. Photo 24. Compact Often referred to as a ‘tight’ bunch. A bunch comprising of berries that are touching other berries within the bunch. Photo 25. Winged An outer arm on the most basal part of the bunch stem. Photos 26 shows a winged bunch.
Photo 22a: Bloom dislodged
Photo 23
22 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE
Photo 26 Bunch stem necrosis (BSN) BSN is a physiological disorder where lesions occur on the grape peduncles and pedicels. It develops during and following veraison. It appears as tissue breakdown, most often at the bunch stem and / or junction of bunch stalks. Part or whole bunches can wilt, die Photo 24 and drop. It can also occur at the berry pedicel and result in either failure of berries to ripen or induced wither and berry drop. The condition causes wine quality issues because fruit is unable to achieve optimum ripeness or there is variable ripening within the bunches. Photos 27a and 27b.
Photo 25
Photo 27a: Bunch Stem Necrosis
23 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE
Photo 27b: Advanced Bunch Stem Necrosis Photo 28: Clumping of fruit Bunch weight Fruitset The mass of the bunch once removed from Fruitset is the physiological and the shoot, incorporating the rachis and the morphological transformation of the berries. grapevine’s fl ower ovaries into berries. It is a process that determines how many ovaries ‘Chicken’ become berries. The proportion of fl owers A seedless berry with the ability to ripen that become fruits is determined within normally that occurs in a bunch displaying one or two weeks following fl owering. (May “Hen & Chicken”. The “chicks” are often 2004) The ratio of berries over fl owers smaller than the larger seeded berries on determines the success or failure of fruitset. the same bunch, called “Hens”. This results in fruit quality implications due to variation of Hen & Chicken colour and /or tannins. Referred to in French as Millerandage. Clumping It is the condition where bunches contain The development of bunches in close a mixture of seeded and seedless berries, proximity to other bunches within the including live green ovaries (LGO’s). Photo canopy. Clumping often results from leaving 29 too many buds or poor spur positioning at pruning. There is an increased disease risk due to reduced airfl ow around the fruit. Photo 28
24 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE
C
B
A
Photo 29: Merlot bunch showing typical hen berries (A), chicken berries (B) and live green ovaries (LGOs) (C) Note that chicken berries were classifi ed as such based on the absence of functional seeds and not on size alone. ‘Hen’ A seeded berry in a bunch displaying “Hen & Chicken”. Named “Hen” to differentiate it from the smaller seedless berries that occur within the same bunch, called “Chicks”. Poor Fruitset Referred to as Coulure. Poor fruit set describes bunches that have suffered excessive shedding of grapevine ovaries and young berries. Failure of some grapevine fl owers to become berries Photo 30: Poor fruit set is natural (May 2004) however if the proportion of affected ovaries or young berries is well in excess of 50%, it leads to Coulure.
25 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Raisin Second crop The state of a berry when dehydration has Generally, a description for bunches that continued to the point where it becomes have formed on lateral shoots. A second shrivelled like a raisin. Photos 31a and 31b. crop can result from environmental (frost) or mechanical damage to the shoot. When damage occurs to the primary shoot, laterals shoot and often second crop develops. It is a source of crop variability and has major fruit quality implications. Photos 32a and 32b show second crop in Shiraz vines.
Photo 32a
Photo 31a: Raisined berries
Photo 32b
Photo 31b: Extensive raisining resulting from BSN.
26 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Seed ripeness The point where berry seed is dark brown in colour, is hard and cracks when bitten. The seed will have toasted fl avours and displays minimal astringency or bitterness when chewed. Photo 33 shows stages of seed ripeness. The top row shows the front side of the berry which is the side to ripen last.
Photo 34
Photo 33 Skin colour The visual appearance of the skin in red Shatter and white varieties. The intensity of colour is Shatter is the phenomenon where few, estimated by rubbing the skins between the if any, berries remain on an infl orescence fi ngers and observing colour bleeding. after fl owering. Severely affected bunches may be said to suffer from ‘fi lage’. However, The level of colour differs depending shatter is also used to describe the normal on the concentration and proportion occurrence of abscission of ovaries from of the different anthocyanin pigments the infl orescence after fl owering. This is found in the grape skins of red varieties. commonly a high proportion (up to 60%) Spectrophotometry is used to assess and can be quite startling when the ovaries approximate colour levels by measuring are visible on the ground beneath the vines. anthocyanins. The level is expressed as mg/g berry weight (fresh). High colour levels in Shot berries red grapes are generally associated with high Shot berries are live green ovaries that quality and increased fl avour in wines (Krstic remain fi rm and green after veraison. They et al, 2003). are seedless and do not develop any fl eshy pulp. Photo 34.
27 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Sound bunches and harvest, when the skin tissue loses Fruit on a vine that is free from bunch rots, its extendibility. Some varieties are more splitting, pest or mechanical damage with predisposed than others. Berries often split good bloom coverage. Photos 35a and 35b at the site of surface damage or scarring show sound fruit, free of disease. where there is less elasticity in the berry skin. Can have the appearance of “laughing or smiling” and are often referred to as such. Photos 36a, 36b and 36c.
Photo 36a: Laughing berries
Photo 35a
Photo 36b: Splitting in reds
Photo 35b Sound fruit Sound fruit in the picking bin is fruit that is free from disease or MOG (Matter Other than Grapes). Split berries Berries that have split open as a result of the Photo 36c: Splitting in whites uptake of excess water between veraison
28 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Shrivel Sunburn Shrivel can occur late in ripening when Sunburn is the burn on the surface of grape evaporation through skins is greater than berries caused by the sun. Sunburn results that taken up by the berries. (Winter et al when there is inadequate protection of 2004) It is often in referred to in McLaren berries or bunches by shoots and leaves. Vale as “berry shrinkage” or “bagginess”. Sunburn causes undesirable phenolic Photos 37a, 37b and 37c show varying characters in fruit and the general loss of degrees of shrivel in Shiraz. varietal fl avour in the resulting wine.Photos 38a, 38b and 38c.
Photo 37a Photo 38a: Sunburn in whites
Photo 37b Photo 38b: Sunburn
Photo 37c Photo 38c: Sunburn in Shiraz
29 GRAPE GROWING & VITICULTURE Turgid berries (full / fi rm) Turgid berries are fi rm to touch when squeezed. Uneven colouration (harlequin) The uneven colouration of berries within a bunch, where the bunch displays both green and coloured berries (harlequin). In extreme cases the variation of ripening within the bunch will have wine quality implications. Photos 39a, 39b, 39c and 39d. Photo 39c: Uneven veraison (unlignifi ed cane)
Photo 39a: Uneven veraison Photo 39d: Uneven ripening Yield The weight of grapes produced from a vine or block. On a ‘per vine’ basis it can be expressed as kilograms per vine or kg per metre of vine row. On an area basis it is expressed as tonnes per hectare. Many wine grape growers across the region still refer to yield as tonnes per acre. If a grower chooses to express their yield using imperial units such as ‘per acre’, then Photo 39b: A harlequin bunch they should clearly note the units to avoid communication errors with wineries.
30 WINEGRAPE & WINE Winegrape / Wine / Winegrape Terminology WINEGRAPE & WINE
McLaren Vale Winegrape / Wine Terminology
The following section uses information gathered from both personal communication and publications to identify the range of fruit and wine quality indicators for the region. These tables should provide some guideline as to the preferred winegrape characteristics that winemakers from McLaren Vale look for in their fruit. Use them as a tool when discussing winegrape specifi cations with your winery to ensure you both clearly understand them. It must be noted that these tables are a guideline only and that you should clearly identify with your winemaker the required winegrape specifi cations. Use Section 1 of the booklet to assist you to gather this information.
31 WINEGRAPE & WINE
TABLE 1: Fruit Flavour and Mouthfeel Descriptors for Grapes in McLaren Vale Under ripe fl avours Flavour ripe Over ripe & stressed fl avours Under ripe mouthfeel Ripe mouthfeel Over ripe mouthfeel Shiraz A balance between sugar, acid, fl avours, tannin. Green or herbaceous fl avours. Red and black fruit (plum, Porty, jammy, cooked fruits and White pepper. Raspberry, blackberry), dark sultana/raisin fl avours. Lacking fullness of fl avour. chocolates, pepper and spice, Also ‘sweet & sour’ or a tropical earthy and fennel. / over ripe guava fl avour with an unpleasant fi nish, almost bitter. Can Excessive acidity. Ideally acidity should not be too get sickly too. Lack of sweetness. high, sweetness. Can develop high pH characters (i.e. tastes soapy). Harsh, rough, astringent, green Tannins should be silky, smooth, fi ne (mouthfeel) of tannin. grained and ripe. Cabernet Sauvignon A balance between sugar, acid, fl avour, tannin. Dominant herbal, green, characters. Cabernet Sauvignon tends to have Jammy, porty, cooked characters. Also dominant menthol or strong varietal typicity i.e. menthol, Others include ‘sweet & sour’ or a minty characters without others blue berry, cassis. It also presents tropical / over ripe guava fl avour presenting. subtle fl oral characters. Low levels with an unpleasant fi nish almost Asparagus or mown lawn. of balanced herbaceousness can bitter. Weak & insipid fl avour, lacking add complexity. intensity. Excessive acidity. Ideally acidity should not be too Can develop high pH characters Lack of sweetness. high. (i.e. tastes soapy / fl abby). Sweetness. Harsh, rough, astringent, green (mouthfeel) of tannin. Tannins should be silky, smooth, fi ne grained and ripe. Grenache A balance between sugar, acid, fl avour, tannin. Green and herbal characters. Nice jubey, red/black or berry Loses fruit intensity, becoming Insipid (lacking intensity). fruits, sweet spices and fl oral bland and sweet and simply losing characters. spice. Excessive acidity. Ideally acidity should not be too Porty, jammy, raisined characters. Lack of sweetness. high. Also ‘sweet & sour’ or a tropical / over ripe guava fl avour. Harsh, rough, astringent, green Tannins should be silky, smooth, fi ne Can develop high pH characters (mouthfeel) of tannin. grained and ripe. (i.e. tastes soapy / fl abby). Chardonnay Balance sugar, acid, tannin, and fl avour. Herbal, green character. Fresh and crisp with some citrus, Flabby, soapy, fat, lacking mineral Talc powder. granny smith, fresh peach, grape, overly tropical, dried apricots, over Thinness or lacking intensity. pineapple. When it is very good ripe peach and sultana/raisins. it sometimes displays a mineral Overly acidic and/or sour acid, character. Low acidity. often displayed as unripe apple or unripe citrus. Tannin level should be very low.
32 WINEGRAPE & WINE
TABLE 2: Fruit Quality Descriptions for McLaren Vale
Preferred Non preferred
Berry fi rmness Turgid berries with good plasticity. Hard berries. Raisined berries. Pulp consistency Balanced juice to pulp ratio, no Too dry, gelatinous. release of juice when squashed Pulp adheres to skin and seeds. but juicy. Sugar/acid balance Balanced sugar and acid that Acid dominance (sourness) displays freshness and vibrancy. without sugar or fl avour fullness. Sugar dominance (especially Acid levels are important. sickly sweet) without any acid to balance it. Herbaceous/fruity balance Low herbaceousness, intense Herbaceous with lack of fruit. fruitiness. Skin chewiness Crunchy and fresh with some Hard to chew or shrivelled, ‘shrinkle’ (wrinkling), easy to chew. slippery, too soft and fl abby. Skin aroma & taste Not too acidic, herbaceous Bitter, herbaceous and no fruity (after chewing) and fruity taste. Tannin intensity and astringency Shiraz Red varieties Moderate intensity, fi ne grained, Too intense, too low or green. elegant.
Cabernet Sauvignon Too hard, gritty, powdery, gutsy, Slightly higher naturally, fi ne grained. chalky, astringent or green.
Grenache Slightly lower naturally, fi ne grained
Chardonnay Chardonnay Low intensity with a very fi ne silky Smaller & stressed berries may be structure. Almost non-existent. too tannic to balance the freshness of the fruit Seeds Colour dark brown. Any green spots. Cracking like coffee bean. Soft or almond like. Toasted fl avours. Herbaceous. Low astringency. Very astringent. Low tannic intensity. Highly tannic.
Recommendations: The Berry Sensory Assessment Workshop according to the book “Winegrape Berry Sensory Assessment in Australia“ by Winter, Whiting and Rousseau, Winetitles 2004, provides assistance with understanding the assessments of berry components and works towards further establishing a common language across the industry. This workshop provides wine growers with a valuable understanding and best practice of use in the vineyard of many of the descriptors used within this booklet.
33 WINEGRAPE & WINE
TABLE 3: Wine Quality Descriptors
Least preferred < > Most preferred
Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon / Grenache Jammy Pepper Porty Berry Stewed fruit Spice Hard Intense fl avours and colour Thin, weak or lacking weight Earthy Green, acidic Fine tannins Gritty, astringent or unripe tannins Rich Phenolic Balanced Unbalanced Ripe/long/elegant/fi ne grained Sweet & sour tannins Alcoholic (too high) Complexity Faulty Freshness Over ripe tropical fruit Chardonnay Weak Lively Fat Mineral Blousy Floral Oily Tropical fruit Fresh
TABLE 4: McLaren Vale Varietal Wine Descriptors
VARIETY REGIONAL WINE DESCRIPTORS
Shiraz Dark chocolate, spice, rum & raisin chocolates, coffee, mocha, dark fruits, berry, mulberry, tobacco, earthy, black pepper, fruits. Cabernet Sauvignon Earthy, minty (menthol), plum, blueberry, fragrant violet, dark fruits, mulberry, chocolates, blackberry leaf. Grenache Sweet spices, earthy, red fruits, chocolates, coffee, mocha, plummy, fruity. Chardonnay Tropical, peach, citrus, buttery, mineral, honey, stone fruit, banana, rockmelon, fi gs.
34 WINEGRAPE & WINE
Fruit and Wine Descriptor Defi nitions
What does my winemaker mean when they say my fruit is / has…? Bagginess. A term describing the physical Ripe tannins (in fruit). Intense but rounded, appearance of fruit when it loses its turgidity, fi ne grained, not too astringent mouth feel, often described as having ‘bagged up’ or in particular at the sides of the mouth after ‘dimpled’, similar to a golf ball. It should chewing the fruit and moving it around in be noted, bagginess is not necessarily an the mouth. The mouth is left feeling ready undesirable character for some varieties for more. such as Shiraz. Unripe tannins (in fruit). An astringent – Flabby. Synonyms are Blousy (primarily for aggressive mouth feel, similar to eating green whites), pHy (high pH character), Flat or apple skins or grape stalks. An unpleasant Broad. sensation, the mouth is hard to resalivate, left Flabby is an indicator of a lack of acid which dry and puckering. results in an unpleasant taste. It can also Sweet and Sour. Overly tropical characters be described as a lack of vibrancy of fruit with a bitter / acidic fi nish. that displays as an overripe sensation (not preferred) similar to the reaction to an over Tannin intensity (fruit). The quantity of ripe apple. phenolics present in the fruit, sensed by friction between the tongue and the roof of Flabby skins. No fi rm structure in the berry the mouth (greater the phenolic content the skins, leading to an easy collapse of the fruit greater the friction). For skins this increases in the mouth, as opposed to bagginess. during ripening while in seeds it decreases.
What does my winemaker mean when they say the wine made from my fruit has…? Harsh tannins. Marked astringency, often Chalky tannins. Astringency that feels as described as ‘hard’. though there is a chalk-like residue in the mouth, resulting in a drying of the mouth Fine tannins. A light astringency that surfaces, which gradually dissipates. displays as a smooth texture within the mouth. Synonyms include ‘fi ne grained’. Defi nitions for ‘astringency’’ Silky tannins. Low intensity astringency Astingency. The sensation of dryness and displaying as an extremely fi ne texture in the roughness of the mouth surfaces (tongue, mouth. Synonyms include ‘smooth’, ‘elegant’ palate, gums, teeth and lips) resulting in the restriction or resistance of movement Green characters. Characters associated between these surfaces. with excessive acidity and unripe fruit fl avours (eg leafy or herbaceous).
35 WINEGRAPE & WINE The following defi nitions have been derived from ‘A Mouth-feel Wheel’ by Gawel et al (2000)… Aggressive. Refers to excessive astringency Silky. An extremely light astringency indicated by the ability of the mouth Abrasive. Excessive astringency that displays surfaces to glide easily between each other. as a rough, almost sandpaper-like, effect Synonyms include ‘elegant’ and ‘smooth’. between the mouth surfaces. Sappy. High astringency combined with Chewy. A feeling that the chewing action bitterness which can be likened to the may displace the astringent sensation in the astringency experienced when chewing a mouth. green grape stalk. Grippy. The inability of the mouth surfaces Supple. A description of balance that to readily move across each other, caused by indicates low to moderate astringency a gripping sensation. with suitable levels of acidity and fl avour Rich. High fl avour concentration with concentration. balanced astringency. Soft. A fi ne texture or light astringency. Synonyms include ‘fi ne grained’. Further Reading
Books Articles Coombe, B.G. and Dry, P.R. (Eds) Viticulture, Dry, P.R., Iland, P.G. and Ristic, R. What is Volume 2. Practices. Winetitles, Adelaide, Vine Balance? Text of a paper presented at 1988. the 12th Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference, Melbourne, 2004. Iland, P. and Gago, P. Australian Wine, styles and tastes. Patrick Iland Wine Promotions, Gawel, R., Oberholster, A. and Francis, Adelaide, 2002. I.L. A ‘Mouth-feel Wheel’: terminology for communicating the mouth-feel Krstic, M., Moulds, G., Panagiotopoulos, B. characteristics of red wine. Australian Journal and West, S. Growing Quality Grapes to of Grape and Wine Research, 6, 203-207, Winery Specifi cations. Winetitles, 2003. 2000. May P. Flowering and Fruitset in Grapevines. Winter, E. and Whiting, J. Using leaf area Lythrum Press, Adelaide, 2004. to crop weight to determine vine balance. Peynaud, E. The Taste of Wine. Macdonald & Australian Viticulture 8 (1), 70-73, 2004. Co Ltd., 1987. Fact Sheets Smart, R. and Robinson, M. Sunlight into Hyde, L. McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Wine. A handbook for winegrape canopy Tourism Pest and Disease Checklist, 2004. management. Winetitles, 1992. Winter, E., Whiting, J. & Rousseau, J. Winegrape Berry Sensory Assessment in Australia. Winetitles, Adelaide, 2004.
36 SPEAKING OF GRAPES AND WINE
Notes
37 SPEAKING OF GRAPES AND WINE
Notes
38