May 18, 2020 Coastal and Ocean Engineering John Fenton Institute of Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources Management Vienna University of Technology, Karlsplatz 13/222, 1040 Vienna, Austria URL: http://johndfenton.com/ URL: mailto:
[email protected] Abstract This course introduces maritime engineering, encompassing coastal and ocean engineering. It con- centrates on providing an understanding of the many processes at work when the tides, storms and waves interact with the natural and human environments. The course will be a mixture of descrip- tion and theory – it is hoped that by understanding the theory that the practicewillbemadeallthe easier. There is nothing quite so practical as a good theory. Table of Contents References ....................... 2 1. Introduction ..................... 6 1.1 Physical properties of seawater ............. 6 2. Introduction to Oceanography ............... 7 2.1 Ocean currents .................. 7 2.2 El Niño, La Niña, and the Southern Oscillation ........10 2.3 Indian Ocean Dipole ................12 2.4 Continental shelf flow ................13 3. Tides .......................15 3.1 Introduction ...................15 3.2 Tide generating forces and equilibrium theory ........15 3.3 Dynamic model of tides ...............17 3.4 Harmonic analysis and prediction of tides ..........19 4. Surface gravity waves ..................21 4.1 The equations of fluid mechanics ............21 4.2 Boundary conditions ................28 4.3 The general problem of wave motion ...........29 4.4 Linear wave theory .................30 4.5 Shoaling, refraction and breaking ............44 4.6 Diffraction ...................50 4.7 Nonlinear wave theories ...............51 1 Coastal and Ocean Engineering John Fenton 5. The calculation of forces on ocean structures ...........54 5.1 Structural element much smaller than wavelength – drag and inertia forces .....................54 5.2 Structural element comparable with wavelength – diffraction forces ..56 6.