COOKING WITH

The is probably one of the most versatile and useful ingredients in your kitchen, says Rachel Demuth. From making vegan mayonnaise and to egg-free potato tortilla, or the ever-popular and falafel, this simple pulse packs a nutritious punch too.

There are endless possibilities for the humble grow best in hot countries from India to the minerals and fibre. They are particularly high

chickpea. Chickpeas can be eaten whole and Mediterranean, where they are an everyday in B1 and B2, iron and potassium, and fresh like garden peas or dried in their pods. ingredient. Last year I experimented with also contain very little fat and no cholesterol. They can be ground into flour, or soaked growing some in my garden for the first time. As with all , they can be and cooked whole. They can be cooked and It was a very hot summer but with just one combined with nuts, cereal and dairy proteins added to soups or ground to make hummus. chickpea per pod, I eventually grew enough to make a ‘complete’ in the diet. Sometimes they are soaked then crushed for one meal… for one person! These recipes have been chosen to reflect raw and fried in falafel. The liquid produced There are several varieties, but of the two the amazing versatility of the chickpea, after boiling them is called ‘aquafaba’, which main types the Indian chickpea – known as so this month we have made traditional can be beaten like into a stiff foam the desi chickpea or Bengal gram – is slightly falafel (so much tastier than shop-bought to make recipes such as vegan meringues. smaller and darker than the Mediterranean varieties!) served with hummus brightened The chickpea plant is an annual legume chickpea, which is known as kabuli. The up with beetroot, a Spanish tortilla made with small feathery leaves and a seedpod that largest chickpeas are Spanish garbanzo with a chickpea rather than eggs, an contains only one to three chickpeas. They lechoso that you can buy dried but more aioli thickened with aquafaba, and a simple, commonly in jars. Black chickpeas are rarer wholesome dish of chickpeas flavoured with and are known as kala chana in India and are saffron and stir-fried with spinach. also grown in Southern Italy in Apulia, where ABOUT RACHEL they are known as ceri neri. Black chickpeas Chef-proprietor of have a stronger, nuttier flavour. Herb falafel with the award-winning Chickpea flour is ground from skinned beetroot hummus Demuths restaurant and split Bengal gram and known as gram in Bath for 25 years, flour, or in India besan flour. It is gluten- These traditional falafels are made with Rachel Demuth free and less starchy than wheat flour and soaked dried chickpeas and are flavoured is now dedicated a valuable substitute for wheat flour in with lots of fresh herbs and spices. They to running most gluten-free for pastry, cakes do need to be deep-fried for them to cook Demuths cookery and breads. In India chickpea flour is used through to the middle and be lovely and school, which offers a range of themed to make batter for bhajis and , in crunchy on the outside. Serve them with a workshops, guest chef events, cookery Southern France to make socca, in Northern striking coloured beetroot hummus. holidays in France and Italy, and the Italy for and in Burma to make Demuths Vegetarian and Vegan Diplomas shan . As a batter, it also makes great Makes 16 falafel | Prep 15 mins + soaking for professional chefs and keen cooks. omelettes, frittatas, tortillas and quiche Cook 15 mins As a well-travelled foodie, Rachel loves fillings. Chickpea flour is a useful for to combine her passion for global cuisine firming up falafels and rissoles too. • 250g dried chickpeas with locally grown produce. Not just versatile, chickpeas are also highly • 2 green chillies, deseeded

ALL IMAGES © ROB WICKS/EAT PICTURES UNLESS PICTURES UNLESS © ROB WICKS/EAT ALL IMAGES DOWNEY LYDIA STYLING: FOOD OTHERWISE. STATED nutritious, containing protein, vitamins, • 1 onion, chopped

48 |

048-52_VL105[RD_Chickpeas]NTSJ.indd 48 28/02/2019 13:38 CHEF’S LARDER

HERB FALAFEL WITH BEETROOT HUMMUS

• 15g fresh parsley leaves • 50g fresh coriander leaves BEETROOT HOW TO COOK • 2 tsp ground cumin HUMMUS CHICKPEAS • ½ tsp ground cardamom Dried chickpeas need soaking Serves 4 | Prep 15 mins • 1 tsp salt overnight in plenty of water in a large • 2 tsp baking powder • 150g cooked beetroot, roughly bowl, and they will triple in size. On the • 2 tbsp gram flour (or plain flour) chopped next day, drain and rinse. • sunflower oil, for deep-frying • 400g can chickpeas, drained For all dishes (apart from falafel) you’ll and rinsed need to cook the soaked chickpeas 1 Soak the chickpeas in plenty of cold water • 2 tbsp tahini in plenty of water until tender. The overnight. Rinse and drain. • 1 clove garlic, chopped cooking time depends on the size of the 2 Place the soaked chickpeas in a food • 1 tsp ground cumin chickpea, but it should be a minimum of processor with all the other ingredients • 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 hour. You can use a pressure cooker to and blend until you have a rough, thick • 5 tbsp olive oil halve the time. porridge consistency. Never add salt when cooking pulses as 3 Heat a wok or high-sided saucepan half- Put the beetroot and chickpeas in a this hardens the skins and lengthens the full of oil deep enough so that the falafel can food processor with the tahini, garlic, cooking time. be fully submerged. Heat the oil to 170C and cumin, lemon juice and olive oil. Blitz It’s worth cooking up a large quantity spoon a few walnut-sized balls (we like to until fairly smooth. Taste and add salt then freezing in portions, to have ready- make ours torpedo-shaped) of mixture at a and black pepper and more lemon cooked chickpeas for future recipes. time into the hot oil and fry for 4–5 minutes juice, if you wish. NOTE Tins of chickpeas are a great until a deep golden brown colour. Drain on COOK’S TIP Freeze the aquafaba from storecupboard standby, but they do paper towel and keep warm. the chickpea tin if you’re not going to have less texture than home-cooked 4 Serve hot with beetroot hummus use it straight away. pulses and cost over twice as much. (see recipe, right). PER SERVING 271 cals, fat 20g, sat fat Make sure you buy - and salt-free PER FALAFEL 105 cals, fat 5g, sat fat 1g, 3g, carbs 13g, 4g, protein 7g, varieties. Keep the liquid aquafaba from carbs 9g, sugars 1g, protein 4g, salt 0.47g, salt 0.09g, fibre 5g the tin for other recipes. fibre 3g

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk | 49

048-52_VL105[RD_Chickpeas]NTSJ.indd 49 28/02/2019 08:51 AQUAFABA (CHICKPEA WATER)

WHAT IS IT? Aquafaba is the thick cooking liquid from a can of chickpeas that would normally go down the plughole when you drain the tin. But don’t waste this precious ingredient – it’s a fantastic alternative for egg whites and is more stable when beaten so won’t deflate on standing.

HOW TO USE To make , simply add a drop of lemon juice and use an electric whisk for a few minutes to form soft peaks, then add equal amounts of fine white caster sugar, whisking well between each addition of sugar. You can also lighten your vegan cakes by folding whipped aquafaba into the cake batter, or use it as an emulsifier to make vegan mayonnaise (see below).

AQUAFABA AIOLI Here is our egg-free aioli made with aquafaba rather than eggs. It’s easy to whisk up too and makes good use of the chickpea water from a can of chickpeas that you would normally throw away. Spanish potato tortilla 4 In a large bowl, whisk the aquafaba with a pinch of salt and pepper until soft • 1 clove garlic This dish is traditionally cooked with eggs, peaks form, then gently mix in the gram • pinch of salt but this is our vegan version made with flour batter. • 1 tsp Dijon mustard a gram flour batter. It tastes just as good 5 Remove the potato mixture from the • 3 tbsp aquafaba (chickpea water) and you wouldn’t know it’s egg-free. frying pan and add to the batter. Wipe • 100ml olive oil out the pan, reheat with the remaining oil • 100ml sunflower or rapeseed oil Serves 4 | Prep 30 mins | Cook 40 mins and pour in the potato mixture. Cook on • 2 tsp lemon juice or white wine vinegar a low heat. You will need to run a spatula • small handful of parsley, finely chopped • 375g potatoes, peeled and cut into around the sides of the tortilla, dragging 5mm-thick slices the mixture in to create the straight-edge 1 Crush the garlic with a pinch of salt to • 3 tbsp olive oil sides as it sets. Place a lid on top to help it make a smooth paste in a pestle and mortar. • 1 small onion, finely sliced cook through. 2 In a clean, grease-free mixing bowl, • 1 clove garlic, chopped 6 When the tortilla is cooked through combine the garlic paste with the mustard • 2 tbsp aquafaba and set in the middle and on top, and the then, using an electric hand beater, whisk underside is golden brown, leave it to sit in the aquafaba until frothy (or place into For the batter: for 10 minutes to cool slightly and firm up a blender). • 50g gram flour to make it easier to turn over. To turn the 3 Mix the olive oil with the sunflower or • 125ml water tortilla, oil a large plate and place it over rapeseed oil, then add the oils to the • ¼ tsp baking powder the top of the frying pan. Put your hand aquafaba, slowly pouring them in a steady on top and gently turn the pan over, so stream, whisking or blending continuously 1 To make the batter, mix the gram flour, the tortilla is flipped over and on the plate. until thick and creamy. Add a little of the water and baking powder together and 7 Wipe out the frying pan and brush lemon juice or vinegar to taste, and you leave to sit for 30 minutes. with fresh olive oil and reheat. Slide the may need another pinch of salt. Stir in the 2 Parboil the sliced potatoes for a couple tortilla back into the pan to cook the chopped parsley. of minutes, then drain. other side for 5 minutes on a gentle 4 Store in a jar in the fridge. The aioli will 3 In a small 22cm deep-sided, non-stick heat, until golden brown. Turn out onto keep for up to 3 days. frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive a plate and leave to cool. Slice and eat COOK’S TIP To make plain mayonnaise, oil and cook the onion, potato and garlic warm or at room temperature with aioli simply omit the garlic and herbs, and whisk on the lowest heat until the potato is just (see recipe, left). the mustard with the aquafaba and a pinch soft, with only a small amount of golden PER SERVING 211 cals, fat 9g, sat fat 1g, of salt until frothy, then proceed as above. colour, stirring frequently. This will take carbs 26g, sugars 2g, protein 5g, salt about 20 minutes. 0.08g, fibre 4g

50 |

048-52_VL105[RD_Chickpeas]NTSJ.indd 50 28/02/2019 08:51 CHEF’S LARDER

SPANISH POTATO TORTILLA

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk | 51

048-52_VL105[RD_Chickpeas]NTSJ.indd 51 28/02/2019 08:51 CHEF’S LARDER

Chickpeas with spinach and saffron A simple, quick Spanish chickpea and • 1 large tomato, diced of salt in a pestle and mortar, and crush to a spinach recipe flavoured with saffron, • ½ tsp smoked or plain paprika, plus extra paste. When the onion is just beginning to which can also be served as a tapas-style to sprinkle colour golden, add the garlic saffron paste dish with the potato tortilla or with rice for and cook gently for 1–2 minutes. a larger meal. 1 Place the washed spinach in a large pan 4 Add the chickpeas, diced tomato and with a lid on a medium heat, and allow to paprika and cook for another 2 minutes, Serves 4 | Prep 10 mins | Cook 15 mins just wilt, making sure the leaves are still stirring to coat the chickpeas in the spices. bright green and not overcooked. Drain Taste and season with a little more salt, • 250g spinach leaves, washed immediately in a colander, and refresh pepper and paprika if necessary, then stir • 2–3 tbsp olive oil under cold water to halt the cooking. in the wilted spinach. • 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 5 Serve drizzled with more olive oil and • 1 clove garlic, peeled large frying pan and soften the onion for sprinkled with paprika. • pinch of saffron threads 10 minutes on a medium-low heat. PER SERVING 248 cals, fat 10g, sat fat 1g, • 2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained 3 While the onion is cooking, place the carbs 24g, sugars 5g, protein 11g, salt and rinsed garlic with the saffron threads and a pinch 0.22g, fibre 10g

52 |

048-52_VL105[RD_Chickpeas]NTSJ.indd 52 28/02/2019 08:51