Beginning a new year across cultures Henna Rakheja,Dec,26,2012:

As soon as the clock strikes 12 on 31 December, people across the world wish ‘Happy New Year’ to each other. Amidst celebration with fireworks and parties, the wishes are exchanged generously even in . Without realising that the occasion has its origins in the Gregorian calender and is sans a specific culture of eating something special on the New Year’s Eve.

Contrary to this, the various communities in India have their New Year on different days of the year, which is celebrated with zest and zeal. And there is something special cooking in the kitchens on that day for the family to enjoy a traditional feast! From Navroz which is the Parsi New Year to Vishu - the Malayali New Year and Vikram Samvat - the Hindu New Year to Baisakhi which is the Sikh New Year, the celebrations include an assortment of dishes.

Breakfast kickstarts the festivity during Navroz, with traditional delicacies like Parsi Sev (sweet vermicelli) and rava ka sheera flavoured with almonds, raisins and rose petals. Parsi households cook either sev or rava, and serve it alongwith sliced bananas, a bowl of sweet curd garnished with rose petals, as well as mawa ni boi - mithai in the shape of a fish, and send it across to their neighbours’ homes before the family sits down for breakfast.

Lunch is an elaborate affair which starts with achar (sweet pickle with carrot and mewa), Parsi poro/ masala omlette or akuri (scrambled eggs) and includes jardaloo gosht (apricot meat stew), salli marghi (chicken cooked with apricots and garnished with crispy potato straws) and dhan dar patia (which is a yellow in a semi-thick gravy) with rice. Parsis love their fish so pomfret is the traditional favourite.

Malayalis celebrate Vishu - their New Year with much fanfare too. The dishes consist of equal proportions of salty, sweet, sour and bitter foods including veppampoorasam (a bitter preparation of neem) and Maanga pulissery (a sour and sour curry of ripe mangoes). Celebrated in the second week of April, generous monetary gifts from elders and a traditional meal mark this day.

The meal comprises either of kanji made using rice and a dish made from semi-ripe jackfruit and at times, a payasam/. Aviyal (assorted veggies simmered in coconut gravy and buttermilk, chakka puzhukku (a jackfruit dish) and parippu pradhaman (dessert made using Bengal gram dal) are a part of the meal.

The Vikram Samvat or Hindu New Year has its origins in the tale of the legendary Hindu King Vikramaditya who ruled in 57 BC. While most have forgotten this legend, Hindus often fast on this day for it coincides with the first Navratra (usually in the month of April) ahead of Ram Navmi. So the feasting here is converted into fasting! But still sweet rice made from either sawak ke chawal (special rice consumed during fasting days) or Basmati rice (for those bypassing the fast) is a must.

But the Maharashtrian New Year celebrated as Gudi Padwa (which falls on the first day of Chaitra) reminds one of the good old puranpoli. Stuffed with a mixture of jaggery and chickpeas and flavoured with saffron, cardamom and nutmeg, this sweet dish is a meal in itself. Freshly made gulab jamuns and and give the day an added sweet touch. In keeping with the advent of spring, fresh fruits like melons and jackfruits are also enjoyed along with aam panna (raw mango juice)!

Then there is Baisakhi or the first day of New Year of Sikhs according to the Nanakshahi Calender, which is also celebrated in the honour of the 10th Sikh guru, Guru Gobind Singh. But for these warrior foodies, from meat, and achari mutton to sarsoon ka saag with makki ki , pindi chana and dry fruit kheer, pinni and in dessert, everything is ultimate indulgence.

When these dishes are cooked in Delhi, their fragrances often reach the neighbouring kitchens and dishes are shared to make every New Year a celebration! So now as the New Year looms, perhaps its time to pick some champagne and cheese to welcome it, but don’t feel constrained. You can still pick and choose from any or all of the above dishes - and welcome it in your own style.